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How did you guys start learning the basics? I tried to really learn from the ground up a few times with books, but they were never captivating enough for me to keep going. After that I just started learning randomly so my knowledge is spotty at best. My soldering skills are excellent from tinkering a lot and doing "assembly required" board soldering projects. As of the moment, I don't really have any true electronics knowledge. So goons, recommend me a really great book to help me learn electronics. Lots and lots of hands on projects throughout the book is the best thing, as I learn far better and am much more interested when I actually get to do things.
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Jun 30, 2008 01:29
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Ms Jewish Anime posted:This was probably it. Also I want to ask yet another question, this time about coupling capacitors in amplifiers. I was talking to icon in BYOB about this earlier, and I wanted to confirm it here. For coupling capacitors, is a lower amount of farads always better? Absolutely not, the coupling capacitor forms a high-pass filter with the input/output impedances of the other stages, and too small a capacitor will kill the low frequency response.
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Jul 5, 2008 10:20
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I'm looking for a little bit of guidance I want to make a solar water heater for my in-ground pool and at the same time cool down a nearby shed. The idea is to put a radiator in the shed and pump pool water through it. The electronics part: I want to put a solenoid valve in there so there's no water pumping through the radiator when the shed is colder than the pool water. I'd just like to use a temperature sensor in the pool and another in the shed so that the valve closes when the shed temperature drops. I'd imagine I'd have to make a little PIC circuit or something like that to compare the temps, but I have no experience with that so if someone could point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it.
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Jul 8, 2008 00:55
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dyne posted:I'm looking for a little bit of guidance Nothing that complicated. A comparator and appropriate biasing resistors can do it fine. I immediately thought of a balanced bridge, but I'm not sure why.
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Jul 8, 2008 02:54
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I have a little project in mind to make me the smart intern at work and I would like to double check it here before I send it to my boss. Part of my daily task is checking 19 pin connectors that each contain 6 circuits to make sure each circuit is getting around 208 volts AC. The way they have me doing it now is with a multi meter which doesn't take too terrible long but still a pain in the rear end compared to something like a 19 pin plug with a bunch of neons on it. I was looking at parts and it seems that something like this http://www.cml-it.com/pdf/4-17.pdf model # 2151A1 would be perfect for the job. Wire it up between the two hot phases and its good to go right? My concern is that depending who else is using juice the output can drop to something closer to 205 volts AC which is ok for what we are doing but what is the tolerance for neons? they would still light up, perhaps just dimmer correct? This just seems to be too simple to work and not have been done by someone else in my position.
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Jul 8, 2008 05:29
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Apologies if this topic has been covered, this thread has gotten huge since the last time I visited it. I have a home project idea to build a remote control car that has a movable camera and maybe a microphone on it. It would be controlled remotely like any RC car, but would also transmit the video and possibly audio signal to a base receiver. I think I have a pretty good feel to guide myself through everything except the video/audio transmission and reception. The camera would be something small and simple, like those little spy cameras or something ripped off a small digital camcorder. The thing is I have no idea what the kind of signal a camera would put out, and how to properly modulate and demodulate it. I don't expcet someone to tell me the whole deal in this thread, but some beginner links and schematics would be great. I want to learn, or at least get a basic grasp of how this would work. Edit: I've been working as an electronics tech, so I have a good feel for basic circuit ideas, microcontrollers, firmware, motor control circuits, and even some grasp of radio transceivers. I have a cheap camcorder I could rip a small color LCD from. I would like to put the video signal on this LCD, so you could operate the car in the field without a PC, but again I have no clue on how to do this. Binary fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jul 9, 2008 |
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Jul 9, 2008 01:04
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Sound_man posted:I have a little project in mind to make me the smart intern at work and I would like to double check it here before I send it to my boss. Part of my daily task is checking 19 pin connectors that each contain 6 circuits to make sure each circuit is getting around 208 volts AC. The way they have me doing it now is with a multi meter which doesn't take too terrible long but still a pain in the rear end compared to something like a 19 pin plug with a bunch of neons on it. I was looking at parts and it seems that something like this http://www.cml-it.com/pdf/4-17.pdf model # 2151A1 would be perfect for the job. Wire it up between the two hot phases and its good to go right? My concern is that depending who else is using juice the output can drop to something closer to 205 volts AC which is ok for what we are doing but what is the tolerance for neons? they would still light up, perhaps just dimmer correct? This just seems to be too simple to work and not have been done by someone else in my position. Sounds like a plan if your only failure mode is complete failure. I'm not sure if you need a series current limiting resistor - I've seen NE-2 bulbs with them, but I don't know if it's required or was simply a brightness calibration thing. Delta-Wye fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jul 11, 2008 |
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Jul 11, 2008 19:29
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 This is the circuit I designed for a resistive touch sensor. The finger completes the circuit and turns on the FET. Problem: it's now on a PCB, and I'm testing it in conjunction with the microcontroller software. It displays unusual behaviour where if the pad is held down for two long, or used too frequently, it sticks high for a while before discharging and going low again (well, negative logic on the pin, but hey). I put my multimeter on the 10M resistor and found that it rapidly rises to 5V asymptotically (as you would expect from an RC network, I believe from the FET gate capacitance), enough to activate the FET, and then when released discharges somewhat more slowly, causing the stickiness and jittering (when sampled at around 40 Hz or above) I measure the resistance of the pad with finger as about 70K (though previously I had thought it was about 500K), so I am considering swapping out the 10M resistors to lower ones to improve the discharge time. 1M or so? Is there a simple way to incorporate a capacitor (I was thinking between the FET and ground) to reduce the jitter?
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Jul 12, 2008 02:30
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I imagine skin has a high noise current. This means that even with a constant voltage across it its current will be noisy, causing quite a bit of noise voltage on your gate. This will cause quite a bit of noise on the output of your circuit. Lowering the 10M resistor should help (try around 1M), but I also recommend either filtering the output with a low pass filter or putting hysteresis on it (probably both). As for the slow discharge, it's likely the gate source capacitance. Again lowing that 10M should help, but finding a FET with low input capacitance wouldn't hurt either.
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Jul 12, 2008 05:27
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Yesterday I tested the circuit further, and found that the jitter was exclusively caused by mains noise, and only presents itself when only the FET side of the pad (which consists of inter-meshing copper tracks) is contacted, easy to do when pressed lightly. Maybe I'll demonstrate it in a faraday cage... The resistors will be swapped out soon, hopefully tomorrow. At present it's bearable for software development, I just have to watch the duty cycle on the pad.
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Jul 13, 2008 02:18
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Does anyone know where I could order a whole lot of LEDs (like at least 100) for cheap?
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Jul 13, 2008 04:53
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http://www.ledshoppe.com/ Enjoy.
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Jul 13, 2008 05:23
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Read and skimmed through all of this thread and didn't see exactly this question answered so here goes; I'm completely new and currently really stupid when it comes to electronics, but very interested in learning. I'm wondering what I need to buy as the "essentials" for starting on a breadboard; So far I'm ordering -"Getting Started in Electronics" -"There are no Electrons" -Multimeter -Breadboard (800+ holes?) -300+ pc wire kit What else do I need to start off with to do the simple circuits in those books and elsewhere? What grab bags should I get from Jameco for which components? What kind of power source, wall wart? What kind to go with the breadboard? Are the prepackaged $10 kits you can get everywhere a good learning tool outside of soldering? Thanks! This has been a fun thread to read (the 25% of it I could actually understand).
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Jul 18, 2008 02:17
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For a good generic pile of components, I would get: Resistors: a value in each decade, somthing like 100ohm/1k/10k/100k/1M. Add a few scattered in between those values and you'll be able to make anything you might need. Capacitors: similar but you'll need fewer values (probably). Ceramics from 0.1uF/1uF/10uF, some bigger electrolytics (look like little cylinders) 100uF to 1000uF. Transistors: Get a shitload of 2n3904s and 2n3906s. If you buy at least 100, they're practically free. Easy to use, hard to kill, will probably come in handy for a long time. Voltage regulators: 7805s, maybe a 7812. If you're feeling fancy, get some matching pairs of 78/79s like LM7815/LM7915 so you can make yourself a dual-rail supply in the future (+/- 15V) Diodes: 1n34 for small signals, 1n4001/1n4002/etc for when you want to make a power supply. LEDs: doesn't matter, get whatever fruity colours you want. You might want some other stuff like some DIP switches or pushbuttons. Doesn't matter what you get so long as you can mount it in your breadboard or whatever. For tools, you'll probably want a good set of strippers. If you're a big spender get a $100 automatic pair. If not, don't buy the cheap automatic one because it is probably poo poo. Get one like this http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ra/images/elect11.jpg Also a set of small needlenose pliers for shaping leads etc. For a power supply, with a 7805 and a wallwart (with an output >7ish volts) you'll go a long way. You'll need a couple of the above mentioned capacitors but that's about it. I probably wouldn't buy a "wire kit". Just get some solid core wire and cut your own. Also, buy some test leads with alligator clips. It will be handy to leave your meter connected while you screw around with your circuits. There are of course a million other things, but here's a start.
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Jul 18, 2008 06:15
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Cyril Sneer posted:Does anyone know where I could order a whole lot of LEDs (like at least 100) for cheap? They don't have a minimum order, are quite friendly, and very fast.
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Jul 18, 2008 14:39
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Metajo Cum Dumpster posted:Read and skimmed through all of this thread and didn't see exactly this question answered so here goes; What kind of stuff are you planning on getting involved with? If you're doing analog stuff (guitar pedals or something, I don't know) versus microcontroller stuff, the amount and kind of components you'll need is pretty different. When I started my collection of parts, I started with a Schwab's kit, which gave me a bit of everything, which is nice. But when you're designing something, and you want a certain resistor, its a pain in the rear end to search through a couple hundred mixed resistors to find the value you want (although its good practice to learn the color codes). I ended up with the following kits: Resistor selection Ceramic cap selection It's a bit of an investment at the beginning, but oh boy does it make prototyping so much more enjoyable. Another nice thing with those kits is they have extra drawers/labels for other stuff you might end up with (transistors or whatever). I also bought a wiring kit which made breadboarding much more pleasant. If you don't get the kit, a few feet of ethernet is a great source for jumper wires. I'd get a grab bag of electrolytics (they're pretty easy to find what you're looking for 'cause the labeling is fairly clear, and I mostly use them for power supply filtering or whatever where particular values aren't real critical). As far as power supplies go, a wallwart + 78XX wouldn't be a bad idea, but I think building your own would be a great first project. Get a project box, transformer, the correct 78XX/79XX you're interested in, AC receptacle, diodes, filter cap, output jacks (banana plugs?) and you're all set. It sounds like a lot, but the circuit is pretty straightforward (if you can't find anything online, I/we could easily help you design it in this thread). You can even get fancy and put in a LM317 for a variable output, whatever does it for you. Some other parts you should buy (things I use/see used a lot): 555/556 Timing ICs Logic ICs (some NAND gates, a few hex inverters, maybe some others go crazy here) OP Amps (at least a few 741s if nothing else) Discrete semiconductors (1n4148 1n914 1n4001 diodes, 2n2222 NPN transistors, 2n3904/2n3906 NPN/PNP transistors, 2n7000 mosfets) Regulator ICs (7809/7805/lm317, etc) If you're interested in microcontrollers, a programmer and some ones to start with would be handy (such as a Pickit2 or something) dv6speed posted:I order just about all my electronics parts from http://mouser.com Digikey -> Mouser -> Jameco, in my experience, going from biggest/most annoying selection to smallest/easiest selection. I started at Jameco and now order mostly from Mouser. *shrug* I also order oddball stuff from Sparkfun Electronics a lot. They specialize in microcontrollers and exotic sensors. If you're doing guitar electronics, Small Bear Electronics is hard to beat. Ebay, believe it or not, has been a good place for LEDs in my experience, although they've always shipped from Hong Kong which takes a while. EDIT: Goddamn, thats some  . If you'd list of a few projects/areas you're interested in, you'd probably get more specific replies.
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Jul 18, 2008 20:30
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turbo sex bat 4000 posted:words Delta-Wye posted:words Thanks a bunch guys. I think I'm gonna go with those two kits, but for future reference what's the differences between (I assume I'll learn this after I get the books), and which get used when; 1/2 1/4 1/8 watt carbon filter resistors? Radial, disc, axial ceramic resistors? There's about 1000 other categories for each component, does it matter much now to know specifically the voltage, tolerance, temp coefficient, size, pitch, termination, etc? I warned you I know jack poo poo about all this.  To Delta-Wye's question, I'm not interested in the analog musical stuff. I'm definitely interested in working with the ICs/etc. I want to make a 2-digit up down counter at some time with a reset and preset numbers.
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Jul 18, 2008 21:16
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Metajo Cum Dumpster posted:1/2 1/4 1/8 watt carbon filter resistors? That number corresponds to the maximum power that you can put through the resistor before it'll burn out. Power = Voltage drop over the resistor * Current These formulas won't necessarily mean anything until you really get into building a circuit. And for the vast majority of your starter projects, 1/8W resistors should be fine. ante fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jul 18, 2008 |
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Jul 18, 2008 21:46
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Metajo Cum Dumpster posted:1/2 1/4 1/8 watt carbon filter resistors? That is the power rating - watts is current x voltage. For most stuff (especially digital electronics) 1/8W is both the standard and perfectly acceptable. There are some situations where you might need a higher power resistor, but in my experience its been pretty rare - and when I do I sometimes just fake it with an array of lower power resistors. Metajo Cum Dumpster posted:Radial, disc, axial ceramic resistors?  Metajo Cum Dumpster posted:There's about 1000 other categories for each component, does it matter much now to know specifically the voltage, tolerance, temp coefficient, size, pitch, termination, etc? I warned you I know jack poo poo about all this. Metajo Cum Dumpster posted:To Delta-Wye's question, I'm not interested in the analog musical stuff. I'm definitely interested in working with the ICs/etc. I want to make a 2-digit up down counter at some time with a reset and preset numbers. Make sure you order a ton of counter ICs (although that should be obvious to you). I would consider getting some of the other ICs for shits and giggles - a 741 can be used to generate a square wave input from some sort of analog sensor system, for example, or a 555 can be used to automatically increment your counter circuit for testing. Just curious, what purpose will this counter circuit serve? I recently got a load of counters to try and build a logic-based nixie clock, and it's a neat approach to the problem (as opposed to my normal 'stuff a pic in it' solution).
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Jul 18, 2008 21:59
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ante posted:That number corresponds to the maximum power that you can put through the resistor before it'll burn out. Awesome, thanks. Delta-Wye posted:Are you sure you didn't mean capacitors here? Ugh, yeah, I keep getting them mixed up :P Delta-Wye posted:And this is why I asked it They don't have IC grab bags do they? I just wanted to make the counter as a way to counting the number of times I open certain thigs. IE my refrigerator (not a fatty), my apartment door, etc. And I just wanted the countdown part of it with a settable number because...I...reallydon't know, I just want to make it. 
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Jul 18, 2008 22:14
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Metajo Cum Dumpster posted:They don't have IC grab bags do they? 74LS SERIES CD4000 SERIES LINEAR SERIES 7400 SERIES Kinda spendy. Jameco also has assorted IC grab bags, but I've heard the selection is sometimes lovely (might have even been earlier in this thread, someone had something like 33% lovely motorola sound chips or something). I'd almost recommend ordering those seperately - save money, and keep your selection smaller. I know I wouldn't know what the hell to do with a 74ls171 or whatever without reading the datasheet, and without reading a 100 datasheets, I'd have no idea what I had on hand so I wouldn't know what where to start. It's up to you and your budget though, different strokes, all that. Metajo Cum Dumpster posted:I just wanted to make the counter as a way to counting the number of times I open certain thigs. IE my refrigerator (not a fatty), my apartment door, etc. And I just wanted the countdown part of it with a settable number because...I...reallydon't know, I just want to make it.
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Jul 18, 2008 22:29
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Ok goons, here's one for you... I'm looking for a pressure sensor that can measure constant pressure prefferably along the lines of Ro = 1kohm at 0Pa and deltaR = 100ohm per GPa. The numbers were pulled from my rear end for illustrative purposes and if it's not linear I can deal with it. Piezo sensors as I understand produce charge when deforming and there for can only measure changes in pressure. Yet everytime I try and find something to measure constant pressure I get pointed at piezo sensors. Do these things exist or should I just give up and try to use a microcontroller to keep a running tally of the changes?
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Jul 23, 2008 04:29
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There are about a billion pressure sensors out there. A lot of them will say "piezoresistive" or some such in the datasheet, but it doesn't mean it only responds to changes in pressure. You can get sensors that will give you a voltage output proportional to the pressure, or a frequency output or several other things. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=1966259;keywords=pressure %20sensor;stock=1 Pick your operating range and the output you want and there you have it.
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Jul 23, 2008 04:46
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I've got a small heap of IRF 3415 mosfets lying around (150V 43A abs max) These are N-channel, and I'd like some P-channel with similar capabilities for building H-bridges and the like. Any suggestions? I've had a hard time finding anything similar. (I don't necessarily need a particular transistor, just places/ways to find them) Also thought I'd mention that a while ago I snatched some MONSTER thyristors from ebay. One of them about 6500 volt, the other 8000v. Both with peak surge currents in the 60kA range. Paid about 20bux for each. For the time being they live in a cardboard box in my living room. They're probably plotting to kill me.
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Jul 23, 2008 11:01
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I rarely finish projects, I'm easily distracted. However, I recently finished a pedal supply so I could save on batteries and unplugging/plugging my pedals.  Still need to decal/paint it, but thats secondary I suppose. It's a pretty straightforward transformer->rectifier->filter->regulator circuit. Went a little crazy adding caps to the outputs Probably wouldn't hurt to isolate the outputs better, but I don't notice any additional noise or hum doing this as opposed to batteries. Have two more project boxes/switches so now I need to find a few more pedal projects to do. Before that, I think I need to revamp some of my bench equipment. I have a function generator breadboarded and am doing the layout currently. I've also been thinking about redsigning my sad little bench DC power supply. It works at outputting voltage alright I guess, but it's not very smart. There is no feedback and no current limiting. I was thinking something like this would be a good project. The switching backend keeps the voltage drop across the linear supply reasonably low, and the linear supply gets rid (hopefully) of most of the switching noise. I think I can replace the control pot with a digital pot so it can be controlled by a microcontroller, which would be cool. I'm currently working on prototyping the linear section as drawn and a current controlling section that I penciled out and think will work. My overarching plan is to control the current limit and voltage limit via a microcontroller. quote:I've got a small heap of IRF 3415 mosfets lying around (150V 43A abs max) These are N-channel, and I'd like some P-channel with similar capabilities for building H-bridges and the like. Any suggestions? I've had a hard time finding anything similar. (I don't necessarily need a particular transistor, just places/ways to find them) I have a drawer for 2N2222s, 2N3904s, MPSA42s, BC237Bs, BC547Bs, 2N5088s, 2N5089s, and 2N4401 NPN transistors (and thats just the sorted NPNs!). Some of them have obvious features that differentiate them (the MPSA42 is for high-voltage work, for example) but for the most part I wouldn't know whether to use a 2N5088 or 2N5089 unless either someone told me or I compare/contrast datasheets for hours Does anyone have any naming convention guides or explanations? About all I know is the 2N, 1N business refers to the number of junctions in the device. Other than that, the most basic of details, 
Delta-Wye fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Jul 25, 2008 |
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Jul 25, 2008 08:39
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Well, I just pre-ordered one of these through ebay: http://matrixsynth.blogspot.com/2008/07/gakken-analog-synthesizer-sx-150.html I'm not even sure of the construction details and it's been a few years since I did any soldering, but for $40 I couldn't pass it up. I'll report back when I get it if you guys are interested in hearing about it.
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Jul 25, 2008 19:37
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I want to pick up a 2-line alphanumeric LCD to work with, since I've never touched them before. However, data sheets for these seem to be universally sparse; usually little more than a mechanical drawing. I've come across a few that say they are Hitachi HD44780 compatible, so I've picked up that datasheet. Is this the case for most parallel LCD's? If the datasheet doesn't say otherwise, should I assume that this is the interface?
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Jul 25, 2008 20:03
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thepartypooper posted:I want to pick up a 2-line alphanumeric LCD to work with, since I've never touched them before. However, data sheets for these seem to be universally sparse; usually little more than a mechanical drawing. I think assuming it's HD44780 compatible is a good guess - that chipset is so ubiquitous even it it was some other chip, it probably uses the same command format. Sparkfun sells a serial backpack for the parallel interface LCDs - while you may not want to buy it (I wouldn't) they link to the source code and schematics because they're cool like that. They might be of assistance if you get stuck and reverse engineering their information is easier than moving forward. Delta-Wye fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jul 26, 2008 |
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Jul 25, 2008 20:44
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Delta-Wye posted:Poking around on mouser, the FQA36P15 is a 150V/36A P-Channel MOSFET. I found it by simply going to their MOSFET page and choosing p-channel and high voltage and current requirements, and reading through the 30 or so it returned. Thanks! I found them on ebay for $2.13 a pop. Think I'll just have to give them a try. The same seller has some insane transistors though. 1200V 54A? I had no idea you could do something like that in a TO247 package. Astrolite fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jul 26, 2008 |
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Jul 26, 2008 00:04
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Astrolite posted:Thanks! I found them on ebay for $2.13 a pop. Think I'll just have to give them a try. The same seller has some insane transistors though. 1200V 54A? I had no idea you could do something like that in a TO247 package. I would suspect that the power rating is sane - aka the transistor works best either fully on or fully offbut will explode with 1200V across and 54A through it (that's loving 65kW goddamn).
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Jul 26, 2008 00:36
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Does anyone have any experience with using SRAM chips in projects? Ideally I'd like two 1 MByte chips but due to price I might drop down to 512 KByte modules. The problem I'm running into is how these chips are packaged. Everything seems to be either TSOP or BGA variants and I seriously doubt I'd be able to solder those to a board by hand. Has anyone had any luck in this area or know of anyone who makes and sells breakout boards?
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Aug 6, 2008 20:19
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Keebler posted:Does anyone have any experience with using SRAM chips in projects? Ideally I'd like two 1 MByte chips but due to price I might drop down to 512 KByte modules. The problem I'm running into is how these chips are packaged. Everything seems to be either TSOP or BGA variants and I seriously doubt I'd be able to solder those to a board by hand. Has anyone had any luck in this area or know of anyone who makes and sells breakout boards? TSOP isn't too bad. I've done them with just an Iron and some solder wick (can be bought at any radio shack). A magnifying glass and some liquid flux also helps, but it's far from unfeasible. BGA, on the other hand, would require solder paste and hot air at the least. Also you could look at a couple of the adapter boards here (near the bottom of the page): http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php?c=20 TSOP can be a lot of different things; could you link the datasheet?
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Aug 6, 2008 21:33
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mtwieg posted:TSOP isn't too bad. I've done them with just an Iron and some solder wick (can be bought at any radio shack). A magnifying glass and some liquid flux also helps, but it's far from unfeasible. BGA, on the other hand, would require solder paste and hot air at the least. This is what I was originally looking at: http://www.issi.com/pdf/61-64WV10248.pdf After I made the post though I realized that it and all the other similar modules at that size were 3/3.3v, I need something that can operate at 5v. I poked around a little more though and came up with this: http://download.cypress.com.edgesuite.net/design_resources/datasheets/contents/cy7c1049d_8.pdf It's 512k rather then the 1 meg that I was hoping for but it's really cheap and as a bonus comes in a SOJ package. I think I can find a through hole socket for that...
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Aug 7, 2008 02:52
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Keebler posted:This is what I was originally looking at: If you can afford to burn some power, just put a simple 3 terminal regulator in there to drop it to 3.3V. Hand soldering a BGA is a shot in the dark at best, even with hot air. I try to avoid them on boards I design unless it's my only choice, or I need the space. TSOP is no problem, you just need practice. I could solder that TSOP faster than the leaded version so long as I have a good iron and plenty of flux. If you're interested in soldering SMT parts, this guy is spot on in his advice: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY
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Aug 10, 2008 21:45
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Does it matter which way a fuse is placed? 120A mini-ANL fuse /w 4 gauge power wire from my alternator to the + battery terminal. I figure a fuse will protect in both directions, but I'm not sure. My alternate plan is to have 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the "output" end of my fused distribution block, the input has 1/0 gauge wire to the + batt terminal, will this work? I'll save like $10 doing it the alternate way, but I don't know if it's safe/will work. Also, can I use power wire as speaker wire? I have done so successfully using 20 gauge power wire to add blade connectors to aftermarket speakers so I could use the stock speaker connector/wiring. I want to do it with 8 gauge power wire for my subs, no blade connectors though. Just strip both ends of 2 wires, one end goes into the amp speaker output, other into the speaker terminal on the sub box. Strip both ends of 2 new wires, and solder one end onto the other side of the speaker terminal inside the box, strip and insert the other end into sub's input terminal thing (it's a metal spring loaded mechanism that has a hole and you push on the bottom of the terminal to open/access the hole).
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Aug 12, 2008 03:56
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tokki g posted:Does it matter which way a fuse is placed? 120A mini-ANL fuse /w 4 gauge power wire from my alternator to the + battery terminal. I figure a fuse will protect in both directions, but I'm not sure. My alternate plan is to have 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the "output" end of my fused distribution block, the input has 1/0 gauge wire to the + batt terminal, will this work? I'll save like $10 doing it the alternate way, but I don't know if it's safe/will work. Do not put a fuse between your alternator and battery. Worst case- the fuse blows, the alternator cannot charge the battery/power your electronics and the battery can still run current through whatever has shorted and burn your car down. Your alternate plan doesn't sound right either. The fuse will do nothing, there is still a current path from the battery that completely avoids it. Alternator to battery. Battery to fused block. Fused block to amplifier. quote:Also, can I use power wire as speaker wire? I have done so successfully using 20 gauge power wire to add blade connectors to aftermarket speakers so I could use the stock speaker connector/wiring. I want to do it with 8 gauge power wire for my subs, no blade connectors though. Just strip both ends of 2 wires, one end goes into the amp speaker output, other into the speaker terminal on the sub box. Strip both ends of 2 new wires, and solder one end onto the other side of the speaker terminal inside the box, strip and insert the other end into sub's input terminal thing (it's a metal spring loaded mechanism that has a hole and you push on the bottom of the terminal to open/access the hole). For the most part, wire is wire. So long as you're not going the other way and trying to run power over a thin wire, you should be fine.
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Aug 12, 2008 06:18
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turbo sex bat 4000 posted:Do not put a fuse between your alternator and battery...Alternator to battery. Battery to fused block. Fused block to amplifier. http://www.stealth316.com/images/bmtr-diagram.gif Also, alternator is 110A. Here's a diagram of the fusible link/relay box: http://fi.somethingawful.com/is/img106/4089/clipboard01tq3.gif turbo sex bat 4000 posted:For the most part, wire is wire. So long as you're not going the other way and trying to run power over a thin wire, you should be fine. tokki g fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Aug 12, 2008 |
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Aug 12, 2008 06:50
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If it's stock then yeah it's fine. I also didn't notice the 120A rating.
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Aug 12, 2008 18:02
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thanks. I'm going to piggyback the new 4 gauge wire so the stock wiring is connected to a ring terminal on the + post and the 4ga comes out of one of the knukonceptz battery terminal outputs, I think that's the safest way to go since I'm not 100% sure of the stock wiring configuration.
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Aug 12, 2008 21:28
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Hillridge posted:If you can afford to burn some power, just put a simple 3 terminal regulator in there to drop it to 3.3V. Thanks, it's looking like I have to go to the TSOP package anyway. It doesn't look like they sell through hole SOJ sockets. I'll have to pickup a few cheap parts to practice on. Poking around I see people even do it using a toaster over! Maybe I'll give that a shot for shits and giggles.
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Aug 13, 2008 14:20
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