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Sterndotstern posted:Covered several times in this thread and innumerable times elsewhere. Use this, replace everything that sucks: true/false: the plastic water pump impellers went away with the 1997 model year E36s. Ive heard a few different things. Im doing mine this weekend (I hope) and if I pull out a metal pump, Ill be curious as to if its the original.
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Jul 21, 2008 16:36
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CornHolio posted:true/false: True, as far as I can tell. From here: http://www.eurospeed.org/m3faq/engine.html quote:Q. Why should I be concerned if my water pump has a plastic impeller?
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Jul 21, 2008 16:50
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CornHolio posted:true/false: This is true. However, waterpumps are still not fantastic. Is anyone familiar with the up/down window problem on E36s? Is this fixable by replacing the window regulator or by replacing the window motor? Or is it something else entirely? My money is on regulators, for anyone keeping track at home. My windows sometimes go up for a few inches when I engage one touch up, then back down (I assume this is the pinch protection becoming engaged due to excessive friction from a worn regulator). I can tell my car is on its original window regulators because they are riveted into the door panels, not screwed as the replacements are.
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Jul 21, 2008 17:06
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Sterndotstern posted:Covered several times in this thread and innumerable times elsewhere. Use this, replace everything that sucks:
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Jul 21, 2008 17:19
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Pissingintowind posted:My windows sometimes go up for a few inches when I engage one touch up, then back down (I assume this is the pinch protection becoming engaged due to excessive friction from a worn regulator). I dunno, it might be worth recalibrating the one-touch first. From the Bentley: quote:The front door windows incorporate a pinch-protection feature as well as one-touch up/down (1994 and later models). In order for these features to work correctly, the mechanical stop reference point must be re-initialized after repairs are carried out. I just typed all that poo poo in since Acrobat Reader can't be bothered to cut/paste from my Bentley.
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Jul 21, 2008 18:47
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Sterndotstern posted:I dunno, it might be worth recalibrating the one-touch first. From the Bentley: I've used this method a few times, usually after disconnecting the battery, and it has worked everytime. A few people on Bimmerforums haven't had such good luck and had to replace the window regulator.
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Jul 21, 2008 18:54
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Sterndotstern posted:I dunno, it might be worth recalibrating the one-touch first. From the Bentley: This doesn't work for me. The window regular replacement is the next step, right? And if I do replace it, the problem should never reoccur?
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Jul 21, 2008 19:04
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Pissingintowind posted:This doesn't work for me. The window regular replacement is the next step, right? And if I do replace it, the problem should never reoccur? Presumably so. Depending on how comfortable you are driving w/o a door skin for a couple days, you can just try greasing the sliders and see if the problem goes away. If not, just order the regulator from your favorite online retailer (my E46 ate both rears while I had it, they were only like $65/ea from Autopartswarehouse.com) and wait a couple days. I used white lithium grease on the ones I installed, I'm not sure what you're "supposed" to use but that seemed to do the job.
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Jul 21, 2008 20:45
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Sterndotstern posted:Presumably so. Depending on how comfortable you are driving w/o a door skin for a couple days, you can just try greasing the sliders and see if the problem goes away. If not, just order the regulator from your favorite online retailer (my E46 ate both rears while I had it, they were only like $65/ea from Autopartswarehouse.com) and wait a couple days. I used white lithium grease on the ones I installed, I'm not sure what you're "supposed" to use but that seemed to do the job. I've been driving without a door skin for the past month (was replacing my speakers, injured myself playing basketball so I couldn't finish the job)  .Yeah, I've heard lithium grease is correct. However, I think only greasing won't help me, since my windows make an audible "thunk". Thanks for the tip. Does anyone know why the hell the M3 uses a different window regulator from the rest of the E36 3 series? It's about $40 more per side...
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Jul 21, 2008 21:38
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drat. Earlier today I was walking around and saw a brand-loving-new E92 M2. This thing looked mean; enormous wheels and huge vented discs. I forgot the new M3s are packing V8s until I saw the dual-exhaust. The new 3-series isn't really my favorite, but this definitely renewed my faith in the E9X platform. As an aside, I live in BMW-ville. There are 20-25 BMWs on my street (about 45 houses) including my dream car (1991 318is) and a goddamn 850CSi in beautiful condition. I drive a VW  
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Jul 21, 2008 23:34
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wolrah posted:...reliable BMWs have 6 cylinders. 
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Jul 21, 2008 23:52
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Am I crazy for wanting to sell my 98 civic and get an E30? I made the dumb move of buying my civic before it had the 100k mile service (or 130000km) so a bunch of expensive stuff needs doing like timing belt, water pump, suspension that I don't really want to dump money into unless I have to. I've been looking at e30s on kijiji and it's making me lust after them. There seems to be a fair amount of impeccable, or at least well maintained specimens considering I live in a province with almost no affordable fun cars. http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-BMW-1991-BMW-318I-W0QQAdIdZ64124843 http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-BMW-1989-BMW-325i-W0QQAdIdZ53777190 http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-BMW-1984-BMW-318i-Western-Car-BC-W0QQAdIdZ63185461
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Jul 23, 2008 04:15
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I'm looking at a pre-owned 335xi at my local dealer. It's a nice price for all the options, which include a bunch I wouldn't have gotten if I were going to get a brand-new one. My only complaint about it is the beige leather - I would've preferred something darker or probably leatherette. Can anyone with the same interior in an older model let me know how they hold up after a few years of service?
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Jul 23, 2008 06:32
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brae posted:I'm looking at a pre-owned 335xi at my local dealer. It's a nice price for all the options, which include a bunch I wouldn't have gotten if I were going to get a brand-new one. My only complaint about it is the beige leather - I would've preferred something darker or probably leatherette. Can anyone with the same interior in an older model let me know how they hold up after a few years of service? How are there pre-owned 335xi's already? Was it a one year lease with the first one off the boat?
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Jul 23, 2008 06:52
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brae posted:I'm looking at a pre-owned 335xi at my local dealer. It's a nice price for all the options, which include a bunch I wouldn't have gotten if I were going to get a brand-new one. My only complaint about it is the beige leather - I would've preferred something darker or probably leatherette. Can anyone with the same interior in an older model let me know how they hold up after a few years of service? I have beige leather in my e46. It seems to have held up ok, there's some wear on the driver's seat bolster - presumably from it being rubbed every time you get in and out of the car (sport seats with the larger bolsters). I'm pretty sure the previous owner didn't treat it with leather conditioner which definitely didn't help. Apart from a few ares of neglect or minor damage, the rest of it looks in great shape. The door panels and dash sections which are beige look fine. I really wanted a black interior too but I have to say after having the car a while I really like the tan now. The only real downside is the heel pad on the floormats gets dirty fast. I sprayed them with scotchgard so hopefully that will help them clean up well.
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Jul 23, 2008 14:12
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discstickers posted:How are there pre-owned 335xi's already? Was it a one year lease with the first one off the boat? The managers at dealerships get Demo cars. Every year they get a new car. Also, the Execs at BMW NA get the same as well, and will distribute those cars to different dealerships when they are done with them. Finally, there are Repo cars. Repo'd BMWs are more common than people think. Everyone loves to live above their means, which is why the economy is hosed up right now. You can't do a one year lease. The minimum is two.
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Jul 23, 2008 14:33
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Lufiron posted:The managers at dealerships get Demo cars. Every year they get a new car. Also, the Execs at BMW NA get the same as well, and will distribute those cars to different dealerships when they are done with them. Finally, there are Repo cars. Repo'd BMWs are more common than people think. Everyone loves to live above their means, which is why the economy is hosed up right now. You can do a one year lease if you work for corporate. I work for MBUSA and we have great one year lease terms. My buddy works for BMWNA and they have a very similar plan.
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Jul 23, 2008 16:02
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Pissingintowind posted:You can do a one year lease if you work for corporate. I work for MBUSA and we have great one year lease terms. My buddy works for BMWNA and they have a very similar plan. That's exactly what I was referring to with the Execs and Managers with demo cars: Lufiron posted:Every year they get a new car. Sorry I didn't clarify, the two year lease thing is for people who walk in off the street.
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Jul 23, 2008 16:04
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discstickers posted:How are there pre-owned 335xi's already? Was it a one year lease with the first one off the boat? I wondered about that myself, and apparently some guy had this and a 5-series and wanted to get rid of both and get a 7-series. I guess if you have enough money, anything is possible. I'm having a hard time talking myself out of getting it and getting a 328 instead. It was an incredible car to test drive.
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Jul 23, 2008 19:25
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brae posted:I'm having a hard time talking myself out of getting it and getting a 328 instead. It was an incredible car to test drive.
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Jul 24, 2008 01:41
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Mad Dragon posted:The N52 in the x28 cars is fast. It's not the monster the N54 is, but it's more than adequate. That, and you won't have to worry about denied warranty claims if you modify it, because there aren't any mods available. Dinan will be happy to sell you an exhaust and intake for $2500.
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Jul 24, 2008 04:49
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Hopefully I didn't miss something similar being posted earlier, but I have a question. I'm looking for something with a little more liveliness in daily driving than what my korean gutless wonder has now, and I was thinking about an E36 of some sort. First, is this a feasible car for a college student like myself to own? Am I going to have to sink a lot of money into constant repair, or can I get by with some preventive maintenance (oil changes, sparkplugs, etc)? How's the insurance on these for a driver under 25? And is it possible at all for me to score one for about $5k? I'd like to really see what the ultimate driving experience is all about, but not if the car is going to eat my financially out of house and school.
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Jul 24, 2008 05:26
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brae posted:I wondered about that myself, and apparently some guy had this and a 5-series and wanted to get rid of both and get a 7-series. I guess if you have enough money, anything is possible.
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Jul 24, 2008 07:12
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Dinan will be happy to sell you an exhaust and intake for $2500. Yeah, and you also retain the warranty. I think Mad Dragon was referring to actual engine mods (cams, crankshaft, forced induction). I think right now the best you can is a chip, and probably from some shady aftermarket company. Certainly none of the Top Tier aftermarket performance companies make anything yet. They are all focused on the N54.
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Jul 24, 2008 13:15
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Butt Reactor posted:Hopefully I didn't miss something similar... Yeah, a couple times. I can't be a dick and say "read the thread n00b" since it's so f-ing long, but here's my highlight reel: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2809820&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=21#post346088456 This is what you will really want to replace ASAP. http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=55 This is a very good and complete inspection list.
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Jul 24, 2008 18:19
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Crustashio posted:Am I crazy for wanting to sell my 98 civic and get an E30? I made the dumb move of buying my civic before it had the 100k mile service (or 130000km) so a bunch of expensive stuff needs doing like timing belt, water pump, suspension that I don't really want to dump money into unless I have to. Go check out that first one and if it's in reasonable shape buy it. Calypso red is by far the best color on e30s, and you get the gas efficient m42 also.
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Jul 24, 2008 22:08
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Just posted a thread in SA mart for the 95 m3 I'm parting out, have at it! Just finished painting my Euro grills for the E28. Nice to have them shiny again  Tomorrow I need to do the mirrors, bumper trim, chrome window trim and taillight trim (ghetto shadowlining!) try to repair my authentic Hartge rear spoiler polish my headlights, and wash the thing. Biggest car meet in the entire U.S., Import Alliance, is hosted in Nashville. This year it's at Nashville Motor Speedway and is hosted by Redline Time Attack, so there will be some fun racing to watch. A good friend of mine should be competing in his E36 M3.
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Jul 26, 2008 06:20
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Mad Dragon posted:The N52 in the x28 cars is fast. It's not the monster the N54 is, but it's more than adequate. That, and you won't have to worry about denied warranty claims if you modify it, because there aren't any mods available. That's sensible advice, but I'm a little retarded and have wanted to get a real nice 3 series for about 10 years now. Since this'll probably be the only new car I'll buy... ever, and I couldn't resist the really aggressive financing promotion BMWFS was running (0.9% APR), here's my new ride.  Sorry about the huge dealer advertisement.  The cockpit.  Can't wait to get past the break-in period. It's been a great drive through some of the Colorado twisty mountain roads so far; we'll see how the xDrive stands up when winter comes.
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Jul 26, 2008 07:15
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Just finished replacing my sway bar end links, bushings, and supports with a friend. Easy job, but it took us 3 hours hours because the loving bolts were rusted to the swaybar. Is there a better way break rusted on bolts than WD40 and the biggest loving breaker bar possible? edit: I also wanted to put in a good word for this jack, jack stand, and creeper set. I got it for $100, and it performed admirably. It is not low enough to get under the M3 without Rhino Ramps, but once the car is on ramps, the stands and jack are solid as gently caress. DON'T GET UNDER A CAR WITHOUT JACK STANDS.
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Jul 27, 2008 22:44
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Pissingintowind posted:Easy job, but it took us 3 hours hours because the loving bolts were rusted to the swaybar. Is there a better way break rusted on bolts than WD40 and the biggest loving breaker bar possible? PB Blaster. Mine were rusted too, but I don't remember them being too hard to break. Definitely didn't take 3 hours, though I can easily see how it could. It's like a brain teaser trying to get the rear swaybar back onto the car with the exhaust still there.
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Jul 28, 2008 00:17
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I'm trying to replace the control arms on my E30 and Jesus Christ this sucks! I have everything out except the inner ball joint bolt, which just doesn't want to budge. I've soaked it in PB Blaster, I've torched the poo poo out of it, and I've laid into it with sockets/extensions/ujoints and a breaker bar and the goddamn thing won't budge  I have so much else I want to do with my car over the next couple days but now I just want to make sure this gets done by Wednesday!
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Jul 28, 2008 00:52
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm trying to replace the control arms on my E30 and Jesus Christ this sucks! I have everything out except the inner ball joint bolt, which just doesn't want to budge. I've soaked it in PB Blaster, I've torched the poo poo out of it, and I've laid into it with sockets/extensions/ujoints and a breaker bar and the goddamn thing won't budge I think I used a Big loving Screwdriver to get that ball joint loose on my E36. Just wedged it between the all joint and the subframe and pryed. Either that or I used the Big loving Hammer from up top with a long extension.
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Jul 28, 2008 01:03
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7 loving hours later and the control arm is off  Huge pain in the rear end, and now I get to do it on the other side
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Jul 28, 2008 01:42
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:PB Blaster. The three hours might be because we are retarded and didn't notice there was a spot to properly hold the sway bar to provide adequate opposing force for using a wrench. Sad. On the upside, no more clunking from the front of the car!
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Jul 28, 2008 02:05
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Walmart 2-Gal Air Tank http://tinyurl.com/6xjuzy Ebay a Decent Used Impact Gun http://tinyurl.com/5jxgyy Harbor Freight Impact Socket Set http://tinyurl.com/5b5hfl One afternoon and $200 means you won't have to gently caress with stuck bolts. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jul 28, 2008 |
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Jul 28, 2008 07:41
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Lord knows us BMW guys need tools. Here's a good deal I just got in on: $100 - 145 piece Craftsman tool kit Considering I just broke one of my Autozone brand ratchets, this came at a good time. The kit has no filler at all, it's all usable good stuff.
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Jul 28, 2008 22:44
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm trying to replace the control arms on my E30 and Jesus Christ this sucks! I have everything out except the inner ball joint bolt, which just doesn't want to budge. I've soaked it in PB Blaster, I've torched the poo poo out of it, and I've laid into it with sockets/extensions/ujoints and a breaker bar and the goddamn thing won't budge Yesterday I managed to finish both control arms (with M3 bushings), new parking brake shoes, new H&R sport springs, and bled the brakes. One minor "issue"...the pedal feels different... I bled the brakes a couple months ago and there was no difference in pedal feel from before, now there is a difference as the pedal needs to be pushed further in to get braking power. It just feels like there is less pressure in the lines, or something. As far as I can tell it is not leaking brake fluid anywhere.
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Jul 30, 2008 02:04
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two_beer_bishes posted:Yesterday I managed to finish both control arms (with M3 bushings), new parking brake shoes, new H&R sport springs, and bled the brakes. One minor "issue"...the pedal feels different... I bled the brakes a couple months ago and there was no difference in pedal feel from before, now there is a difference as the pedal needs to be pushed further in to get braking power. It just feels like there is less pressure in the lines, or something. As far as I can tell it is not leaking brake fluid anywhere. Bleed them again. My clutch was like that because it had a tiny amount of air in it, I put another quart through the clutch only and it finally fixed itself.
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Jul 30, 2008 02:21
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The stopper for my clutch pedal broke off yesterday. I guess chalk that as one more thing to do this weekend while I have the wrenches out to take care of the sensor that's giving me lovely idle and a code. I thought this car already had a terrible dead zone on the clutch, now it's an inch or two worse...
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Jul 30, 2008 03:18
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For the Birmingham BMW folks, you need to check out Stephen's Garage (326-4542, 4105 4th Ave. South, Birmingham, AL 35222). He just did the wheel bearing in the right rear and fixed the brake light board (removed it, soldered up the burned spot, and replaced the bulb socket) for me for $383. Momentum quoted me $550 for the bearing only. I looked into doing it myself after the Momentum quote and parts were going to run me $278, the tool another $250, and approximately 3 hours of labor. I called a buddy to see if he had the tool and he told me to ask Stephen what he would charge. He's a one man shop and has been working on BMWs for 30+ years. I guess I found a new shop. Hopefully Rory will make it without me. 
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Jul 30, 2008 22:37
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