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My dog was neutered about 3 weeks ago and he was started peeing indoors. He was trained and had been accident free for months, but now he will get on the bed, couch, floor and just pee himself. Sometimes he will be sitting or just lying down and pee without moving. I called the vet that fixed him and they told me some dogs will act up for a while after the surgery, but its just strange that he will pee all over himself. Should I call a different vet or is this normal? edit: he seems to pee after jumping or making a sudden movement. tsuki fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Aug 7, 2008 |
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Aug 7, 2008 00:52
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Firstly, maplecheese thank you for all the advice, it's greatly appreciated. Unfortunately, I need more advice. I took my kitten to the vet and it turns out it has fleas. So they gave her some pill that treats heartworm and kills fleas and they also gave her some liquid thing for the back of her neck I guess to kill any eggs. I am now worried about my house. They sold me a spray, so I washed all her things in hot water and sprayed my carpet with this spray but I am still worried about having a flea problem especially since the room the kitten is resting in has not been sprayed because he's so lethargic from the vaccination that I couldn't stand to bother him. Is there anything else I should be doing, perhaps something less toxic? I can wear flip flops around the house but it worries me to think of his little paws touching all that pesticide.
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Aug 7, 2008 01:44
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tsuki posted:My dog was neutered about 3 weeks ago and he was started peeing indoors. He was trained and had been accident free for months, but now he will get on the bed, couch, floor and just pee himself. Sometimes he will be sitting or just lying down and pee without moving. That doesn't sound normal to me. Personally I'd get a second opinion.
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Aug 7, 2008 01:57
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Prune Juice posted:Firstly, maplecheese thank you for all the advice, it's greatly appreciated.
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Aug 7, 2008 01:58
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With the cat on a flea preventative any fleas that jump on him should die. As long as you keep him up to date on his flea meds the fleas won't have anything proper to eat (they can't survive on human blood for more than a few days) and will all die out. I'd just wash the blankets and pillows and such and vacuum the carpet well, then throw out the bag immediately.
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Aug 7, 2008 03:44
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When is a good time/age to start weaning a dog off of his crate? Several months of no destroying anything/being completely housebroken?
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Aug 7, 2008 04:38
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Kela posted:When is a good time/age to start weaning a dog off of his crate? Why would you? Every crate-trained dog I've met loves their crate, and will snooze/play with toys in them during the day. It's a good life-long habit for them.
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Aug 7, 2008 05:45
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Women's Rights? posted:I would but...well, and this is embarassing to admit, but when I was transferring him from the trap to the carrier, I had the car door open behind me and he ran out. hehe, I tell you this because I love you and can get away with it, but you are a ding bat for that one.  How do I train my dog to not tear up my kitties toys? She's always had a penchant for tearing up napkins and tissues if she can get to them and we soon learned to not give her plush type toys or we'd see the insides of them within seconds. Unfortunately cat toys are usually some how small and furry, namely the little toy mice that my cat loves to bat around. Even the small tennis ball like deals/bells in a mesh plastic ball my dog will chew up. When I see her with a cat toy we tell her no and give her one of her own toys instead or praise her when she walks over a cat toy and picks up one of her own but she just looks at us like we are retarded. Luckily those small mice aren't expensive but it'd be nice to not have to put them up when we leave so the kitty can play while we are gone. It's weird, our dog has NEVER torn up a sock, mitten, shoe, slipper or anything of ours made out of material that can be torn up left on the ground, just cat toys and plush things we earlier made the mistake of giving to her so I assume she knows the difference between OUR stuff and her stuff in some magical doggy way. Now how do we differentiate kitty toys from dog toys?
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Aug 7, 2008 09:13
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Kela posted:When is a good time/age to start weaning a dog off of his crate? Beaten, but you don't. The crate isn't just for housebreaking, it's also for protecting them from getting into poo poo and making a mess and (most importantly) making sure they don't seriously injure themselves or worse while you're out of the house. It can also be great for transportation. Don't wean from the crate.
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Aug 7, 2008 13:51
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Never? Not even when they're an adult? I wasn't going to take the crate away or anything, but figured at some point they'd prefer to have their crate open maybe in a dog safe room or something.
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Aug 7, 2008 14:19
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Eh, I leave my dogs crate door open when we are away. I'm also confidant that she wont get into things while I'm away and I've dog proofed the house to the best of my ability. Personally I would make sure the crate is always there for her to retreat to as it's awesome she's comfortable with it. Don't 'ween' her off of it in the way you take it away as it's good to always have it out for her so if you do ever need to lock her in it it's not a bad experience.
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Aug 7, 2008 15:25
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Anybody ever re-carpet a kitty tree? My wife and I have got this awesome kitty tree that we bought about 5 years ago for our 3 cats. They love the thing and while the platforms are in good shape (albeit covered in fur) - the climbing ramps attached on either side are ripped to hell from scratching and climbing. I did a little Googling and while I see there's plenty of sites that talk about *building* a kitty tree from scratch - I don't know how feasible it would be to re-carpet an existing one. I've already thought of the idea of getting some carpet remnants and just cutting the old carpet off the ramps, but what do you use to attach the carpet? I'd be afraid to use nails or staples for fear the cats might catch their claws on them while scratching or climbing, but I don't know if there's "carpet glue" or something I could use that would hold up well.
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Aug 7, 2008 16:53
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Encryptic posted:Anybody ever re-carpet a kitty tree? My wife and I have got this awesome kitty tree that we bought about 5 years ago for our 3 cats. They love the thing and while the platforms are in good shape (albeit covered in fur) - the climbing ramps attached on either side are ripped to hell from scratching and climbing. Check the cat tree thread. My fiancé and I have partially re-covered ours, but not the whole thing. We used the big heavy-duty staples that are long and very sturdy, and we haven't had a single problem. I believe other have used glue and nails.
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Aug 7, 2008 21:50
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Fire In The Disco posted:Check the cat tree thread. My fiancé and I have partially re-covered ours, but not the whole thing. We used the big heavy-duty staples that are long and very sturdy, and we haven't had a single problem. I believe other have used glue and nails. Thanks, I'll check it out right now. 
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Aug 7, 2008 22:05
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Sorry to burst your bubble, but they usually won't go back in a trap once they've been caught. Now instead of associating it with food, they associate it with horrible frightening hairless monsters. RC (Random Cat) says you don't know what you're talking about   he's older than I originally thought he was, and is currently chilling out in the bathroom. I'm calling the shelter and vets tomorrow, but I really don't think he has an owner - he doesn't like me getting near him at all. I'm also fairly certain he has fleas, and his one eye is a little gunky, and he needs a bath, but all of that can wait until he's settled down a bit. Vet appointment is tomorrow.  P.S. KilGrey you are not allowed to look at my kitten pictures.
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Aug 8, 2008 00:26
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Women's Rights? posted:P.S. KilGrey you are not allowed to look at my kitten pictures. You are so mean.  Are you going to keep the kitty that I'm not supposed to look at that I'm sure is cute as a button?
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Aug 8, 2008 02:40
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Are you sure that's a he?
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Aug 8, 2008 08:53
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Yay! I love a sucessful hunt! SUPER cute, too. From my experiences in trapping cats, I would have to agree that its probably abondoned. If it was someone's kitty, a cat that age would be be dying for some petting. Also, if he went back into the trap, probably VERY hungry. I'll be impressed if Lioness was able to call the sex from those pics, hard to tell when they are that young.
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Aug 8, 2008 12:57
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I haven't the foggiest if he's actually a he - could very well be a girl. I tried to take a peek yesterday, but RC is just so shy and is already pretty freaked out that I don't want to stress him out any more than I have to (I'll leave that to the vet  ). It's a completely arbitrary distinction.Tomorrow comes calling the shelters and vet just to make sure he doesn't have an owner, but if he doesn't have a home he's found one. I also found out that he's probably got a cold, he's got a snotty nose but isn't wheezing or anything. Poor kitten...but god drat if kitten sneezes aren't adorable. Edit: Alright good thing he's cute because the little bastard just pooped on my bathroom counter <  > Perfectly good litter box not 5 feet from him.
Women's Rights? fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Aug 8, 2008 |
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Aug 8, 2008 13:10
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Women's Rights? posted:RC (Random Cat) says you don't know what you're talking about My bad, I didn't realize you were hairy like a gorilla 
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Aug 8, 2008 17:44
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I have a 6mth old chocolate lab-ish that is very energetic. We play ball and Frisbee but no mater how much I work him he's ready to go again in 20 mins. I work from home and he doesn't understand that I cannot play all the time because I need to work to make money to buy him bones. Would getting another dog help by giving him someone else to play with or would it just mean I had 2 dogs that now want my undivided attention? *Side Note: He is huge, already 60 pounds and was just neutered on Monday.
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Aug 8, 2008 20:56
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Okay, been trying to read entirely through the thread to make sure this question hasn't been asked... but its been TWO DAYS (with breaks)! And I'm still reading. And I haven't yet come across anyone nearly as paranoid as I think I sound. So, hopefully the questions haven't been asked, or at least not in quite the nutty way I sound. Recently, my cat Kishka died. She was my first cat that was exclusively mine, and then adopted my husband when we married. I'm heartbroken, still. My husband is heartbroken, but he feels that adopting another cat would make him feel better- help him deal better. I can see those reasons, most of the pet death's I've dealt with, I've always had other pets that comfort me and I comfort in return.. so it helps. And plus, Kishka really made me see how great cats can be... and honestly, in my hypocritical little heart, I would want to honor her memory by giving another cat a better life than she had (she was a stray, but then she found us). But I'm not ready for a cat just yet (hence the hypocritical part). BUT, I have agreed to adopting a cat, someday soon. My only REQUIREMENT (besides it hopefully being a short haired, and female, and not a Gray Tabby), is that it is a kitten because I need more probable time, than I had in the six years our cat was with me. Now, I know, kittens are assholes. But I don't work, so I have time to devote to it. And we have no children. I have also helped train and raise dogs all of my growing up life, even played midwife to an accidental pregnancy to a dog we rescued (could tell she was knocked up 2 days after we took her and her brother in- gently caress.) and in a couple cases handfed the pups because the Chow Chow mom was a real bitch (excuse the pun), and I gave Kishka a great, spoiled life. I am fairly certain I can handle it, and I'm willing to make adjustments, learn, and train. And no, we won't be adopting more than one- because our lease is very clear on just one cat being permitted. I know that will make it harder, from what I've read on PI, since I will have to be the one to tire out the kitten if we want any peace. But we will do it, no matter what, and this kitten isn't going to lose its home with us because its an rear end in a top hat- it becomes family the moment we sign the papers for her, and we don't abandon family no matter how jerky they are. Already I'm kitten proofing the house. Nailing down wires and cords (okay not that drastic, but close), getting cord covers, getting child proof cabinet door locks for under sink areas (to avoid poisonings), even going to get toilet seat lid locks. So my question is- what else needs to be kitten proofed? Should outlets have covers as well? How far should we go with baby/kitten proofing? The place we are going to adopt from is the PAL humane society in our area; http://www.palhumanesociety.org/ Does this place look good to you guys? Would you adopt from this place? For a 65$ adoption fee you get: 1 Cat or Kitten, Spay or neuter, Leukemia/FIV test, 4 in 1 and Leukemia vaccine, Rabies vaccine if old enough, Microchip, Cardboard cat carrier (already have a carrier though), Free vet visit, One month free pet insurance, and a Goody bag. I have looked around in our area, and they look to offer the most health care, and services for the adoption fee (other shelters are much less, like $35, and they only include spaying/neutering, and possibly shots; and nothing else), and they really do seem to care about a pet's welfare.. but does this sound better, than adopting at a shelter that offer's less? Okay, and assuming we adopt from this place. Their kittens are usually 3+ months old (and litter box trained, according to their pet listings on petfinder), so they have most of their shots, though they may need the last few shots in a standard kitten package from the vet. What else should we do? The kittens are fostered (instead of living in cages on the premesis), so I would have to assume the kittens are given flea treatments if they have them (and we are in the desert and generally at very low risk for fleas anyway), but when we get a kitten home- should we go ahead and give the cat a dawn soap bath? And how would I do that- I gave my cat a bath all the time, but Dawn seems like a much heavier soap than I've ever used. Should the soap already be in the water before she is put in the water, or should I put the soap on her after she is in the water? I plan to go to the vet, and at least see about Advantage Plus for the kitten. I have no experience with the possiblities of fleas though, so I'm pretty concerned about that. How soon after we get her home, should we try to bathe her? Also the place we want to adopt from has a store right next door that sells "homemade" treats. Profits go to help the shelter. But they also sell Solid Gold pet food, at a really cheap price (just a dollar more than what we were paying for a bag of fancy feast for our old cat, who was put on FF by her vet.. so I want to start the kitten out with something even better- since she probably won't have the same food allergies as our old cat did), so we are considering using that food to feed the kitten after its older (if the foster family feeds differently; and the food is cheaper than what is sold on the Solid Gold website). Anything else she should be given? And lastly (sorry for the long post), We will probably (actually not probably- we will, unless there is a compelling reason why we shouldn't) invest in a Kitten Wellness Program at one of the local vets. I've narrowed it down to two vets. One vet offers "Program A": (Kittens 6 weeks and older) (1) Health Exam, (2) FVRCPC Vaccine, (2) Leukemia Vaccine,(1) Rabies Vaccine, Leukemia / FIV Combo Test, Deworming, Fecal Test, Toe nail trim, Starter Guide Kit, Vaccine Record, 5lb. Bag of Science Diet Kitten Food Another offers "Program B"; Two Doctor Visits: Performed at the beginning and end of the package.; Vaccinations: Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus and Panleukopenia and a 1 year Rabies vaccine. The outdoor package includes Feline Infectious Peritonitis and Leukemia vaccines (Which we won't need, since kitten will be indoors exclusively).; Dental Care: A toothbrush and pet toothpaste to protect pet’s oral health; Fecal Analysis; Anti-parasitic medication: Two doses of a safe systematic dewormer for Roundworm; Felv/FIV testing; Nutrition: A sample of a premium food to promote good nutrition for pet (doesn't say what kind).; Learn More: A booklet to assist with the care of new pet. So which package is the best for a new kitten starting out? I've got several books coming in from the library to educate ourselves on kitten health, training, adopting, etc., but we would really love the opinions of those here on PI, for the best methods on giving our kitten the best possible start in our home. We have toys, a laser, dangle glove, combs and brushes, even a cat tree and a unused sifting litter-box.. so while we will get a few more toys, and things, anything else recommended for kittens? I've heard that a baby's teether might be good to direct an instinctual chewing off of cords, hands and things, anyone know if this is a good idea? Thanks for the help! C.TheRaven fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Aug 8, 2008 |
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Aug 8, 2008 21:51
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C.TheRaven posted:holy poo poo Honestly, I would seriously suggest you give some more thought to a young adult, simply because by that age (maybe only 10-12 months) some of them have decided that they HATE other cats and so would be happy as an only cat. I can definitely understand wanting a baby to get the maximum amount of time with it though - my boyfriend and I almost bought ferrets from a pet store rather than adopting because of that - and if you want to adopt a kitten that's cool too... I just think an adult cat who's already known to hate other cats might be a better fit. Any kitten that's been living in a foster home should be flea-free unless the shelter is REALLY sketchy, so you shouldn't have to deal with that. Solid Gold is very good and if you can get it cheap you should go for it. I would get the "B" program, since you're not going to be feeding Science Diet.
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Aug 8, 2008 23:22
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Lioness posted:Are you sure that's a he? Oh now I get it. On my monitor here at home, it looks like the kitten has some orange color mixed in. Which would suggest tortie, which suggests girl. Nannypea posted:I have a 6mth old chocolate lab-ish that is very energetic. We play ball and Frisbee but no mater how much I work him he's ready to go again in 20 mins. I work from home and he doesn't understand that I cannot play all the time because I need to work to make money to buy him bones. Would getting another dog help by giving him someone else to play with or would it just mean I had 2 dogs that now want my undivided attention? I wish there was a good clean answer for that, but I don't think there is. I'm in the same boat with my cat now: I adopted her from a house full of people, but I live alone. Obviously getting another cat means less attention from me, but if they provide companionship for each other then... But what if they hate each other? For now I'm sticking with one cat, but I might reconsider in the future. BTW, 6 months is just a big puppy, so I'm sure that he'll calm down a little.
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Aug 9, 2008 00:49
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maplecheese posted:Great thoughts & things to consider. I appreciate your input. As much as I want a kitten, I'm not entirely set on details right now (read: hypocritical little heart). Its possible that if we find a young adult cat, that it will be the one to steal our hearts- I'm not closed off to that. After all my Kishka adopted me, when I had never considered a cat at all for a pet (bad experience as a child), so she really did open me up to all of the possibilities- but right now, my heart is still hurting over her loss, and I can't ~imagine~ just having another 6 years again (its selfish, but in the end I'll do right by a kitten/cat before my own selfishness). Whatever cat is the best fit for us (the best we can tell during the adoption process) is what we will adopt, right now its just an intention to get a kitten from a shelter. A very, very strong one, but.. I will definitely consider a young adult cat. But like I said, I'm prepared to be put through hell by a kitten, and love the little fluff despite rear end in a top hat behavior. I still need time, before jumping into bringing in another family member. But its best to prepare for the one possibility with the most demanding needs- and start our new little family member off right, no matter their age. What I know of the shelter, they do fully check out their fosters; background checks, home inspections, and happily pay for all expenses for the cat. They are also the only place in our community with a consistently run program that aids seniors in caring for their pets (which I think is fantastic). They are also affiliated with the United Way. I considered adopting from the shelter when I was 18 (10 years ago), but they have strict requirements about even the people adopting being a certain age, and what not. So disappointed as I was, it felt good to know they weren't just trying to get the pets placed wherever. Great to get some input on the flea issue, I was hoping that would be someone else's opinion as well- I wasn't sure since I've never adopted from a shelter before. And the Program B one was what I was leaning towards as well (husband was no help on picking though), so great to get that confirmation as well. Just want to make sure that the best possible choices are made for the kitten/cat's well being, and that I am as prepared as possible. Our passed cat had teeth problems because her previous owners had obviously not brushed her teeth (hoping they were ignorant, instead of just abusive, but they abandoned her so I have little hope of that), and then the teeth had to all be painfully pulled- so starting things off with knowledge of what HAS to be done for a cat (like tooth brushing, early vaccines, and other early first steps to take, etc.), will hopefully avoid having that kind of problem come up (cause ignorance isn't bliss for a helpless animal). I'm educating us, but I know nothing beats PI experience! Thank you! Sorry more/too many words, again. C.TheRaven fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Aug 9, 2008 |
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Aug 9, 2008 02:03
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On the topic of weaning from the crate - its the kind of thing that I wouldn't plan and count the days until its accomplished. PI can be crate nazi's but there's both sides to consider. Thousand and thousands of dogs do fine inside the house without a crate. Many of them do fine their whole lives. Some of them get into something and cost their owners thousands of dollars or it costs them their lives (read several threads in the past year of suffocation risks). There is no one way, but I would personally say just wait until it really seems like a non issue. One of the main benefits of a solid crateable dog is that they're good for emergencies and travel. Crate any time you have no fear that they're going to pitch a fit. On the lamb and have to stay in a not-pet friendly hotel? Crate magic. Dog is sick and needs to rest from surgery in a crate? Crate magic - no stress when they're sick. Emergency trip out of town and you can only get a dog walker? Crate that puppy, and say your sorry when you get back. Have to babysit your aunt's cat and you need the dog confined? Have a friend over that's allergic or fearful? etc. etc. You want your dog crateable anytime without any reintroductory period. Personally I have one dog I crate and one I don't. The one that isn't crated I crated from puppyhood to 2 years. I never had the goal of not crating her, but at some point after her 2nd birthday I started having these ridiculously short errands to run and the dog was off sleeping somewhere and I just didn't bother to call her downstairs to stick her in the crate. Over time it developed and I generally don't crate her unless I have a reason. She occaisionlly gets a bout of the runs and its easier for me to clean up her and the crate than the places she would spread it all over the house. I was doing a delicate craft project for the past few weekends and she's just too clumsy so I crated her so I wouldn't have to kill her when she destroyed it. I was having a party the other weekend and everyone was all dressed up and I crated her so we wouldn't be brushing dog hair off ourselves the whole time. So now, I could crate her anytime I needed to but I often don't and I think that's the best anyone should shoot for. I really wouldn't expect an adolescent of any kind to not gently caress something up every once and a while, but with regular crating I'm proud to say I have literally never once cleaned up a mess created by a dog outside of maybe 3 explosive horrible diarrhea episodes outside the crate in my 2 and a half years owning a working/showing line GSD, and that's pretty drat good. If you're compelling to risk your possessions and your dog by pushing it early you're welcome to give it a shot.
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Aug 9, 2008 04:50
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Saveremreve posted:One of the main benefits of a solid crateable dog is that they're good for emergencies and travel. This I think is important and often overlooked. I'm petsitting for a friend right now for just under 3 weeks. I've got two other dogs (roommate's) and 3 cats to worry about as well. Since my friend's dog is not crate trained it means I have to crate train it myself, on top of taking care of it, because otherwise I would not have been able to keep it for her at all. Since I was the only one available/willing to watch it for this long, that would have put her in a real pinch (it's hard to come up with the money to kennel for that long on a grad student salary). Thankfully for me, the dog is very food driven and has adapted well to the crate with judicious use of treats and a kong toy, but it would have been easier for me and less stressful for the dog if it were already used to the crate.
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Aug 9, 2008 05:07
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Dr.Khron posted:Oh now I get it. On my monitor here at home, it looks like the kitten has some orange color mixed in. Which would suggest tortie, which suggests girl. You got it. I can't really discern the color that well (hint: better pics plz) and the cat might just be dirty, but it looks like possibly it could be a dilute torti.
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Aug 9, 2008 17:23
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Has anyone ever had a dog simply stop asking to go out? We're working on some marking issues with one of our dogs and I noticed he's just stopped scratching at the door. He'll go if we take him out front with a leash, but he won't go into the pen in the back yard. We're not sure what caused this either - he doesn't really like the grass when it gets tall, but it didn't used to stop him before. Anything we can do that would help re-teach him how to "tell" us he has to go? And any thoughts on what would stop a dog from going outside in a pen?
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Aug 10, 2008 05:22
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The cousin of a friend of mine moved into his house the other day, along with her new puppy, a chow/collie/blue heeler mix that she got from someone's farm somewhere... Despite her general lack of knowledge in the dog field, the puppy (who is 3 or 4 months old, I believe) is already pretty well housetrained. I passed along the kid in a candy store/your dog just pooped rainbows praise thing just in case. I know I got that one right, but here's some advice I gave him to give her that I was kinda unsure on: the dog bites from time to time, mostly playful chewing of hands, and I told him that when she does that, he should pull his hand away calmly and ignore the dog and walk away, still ignoring her... is this right? It's worked for me in the past, and according to him when he tried it tonight, the dog "looked sad" and went to get one of her toys instead. I don't know if that's a good sign or what. So, before he passes this on to his cousin- who luckily thinks I'm a credible source- it'd be nice to know if I'm telling him something totally wrong.
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Aug 10, 2008 05:42
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Silly Hippie posted:I know I got that one right, but here's some advice I gave him to give her that I was kinda unsure on: the dog bites from time to time, mostly playful chewing of hands, and I told him that when she does that, he should pull his hand away calmly and ignore the dog and walk away, still ignoring her... is this right? It's worked for me in the past, and according to him when he tried it tonight, the dog "looked sad" and went to get one of her toys instead. I don't know if that's a good sign or what. So, before he passes this on to his cousin- who luckily thinks I'm a credible source- it'd be nice to know if I'm telling him something totally wrong. Nope, you're fine, it's a good thing to do. They can also try yelping a little bit, like a hurt puppy would yelp. Yelping and refusing to play is how littermates teach one another how much biting is too much... and if they're consistent, eventually the puppy should learn that humans should not be bitten at all. Also, do you know what she's feeding him? He should be on some kind of puppy food right now, but once he grows up, if she's not willing to get really high quality stuff, you could suggest Kirkland Signature dog food from Costco if she has a membership. Under $30 for 40 pounds and pretty decent stuff. (and remember the good food = less shedding and less-stinky poop argument!)
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Aug 10, 2008 07:53
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Thanks for the reassurance, I forgot to mention I also told him to "yelp". I don't know what she's feeding the dog and I really don't want to know. She's 17, I think her parents still pay for this stuff, and they're really poor (and cheap). I was really pleasantly surprised to learn that the dog went to the vet and got her shots, and that she's going to be vaccinated and microchipped later on (and fixed, hallelujah, same girl had a constantly-spawning cat not long ago). I will definitely suggest the food, though. If her parents don't have a Costco membership, one of the family members that lives there strikes me as someone who would. And also as someone who would listen if smell and mess are involved. I'm honestly surprised that she's let the dog in the house at all, I expected her to say no for religious/cultural reasons like my mother would..
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Aug 10, 2008 08:42
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We discovered a bird (sparrow, maybe?) hanging out in our garage. It must have gotten through the narrowly-opened back door and couldn't find its way out, so we opened the main garage door and went to nudge it toward it. Except it wouldn't move. It was perched on a metal bed headboard we were storing against the wall and looked scared out of its mind. I tried waving a piece of cardboard behind it to prompt it to head for the big garage door space and glorious freedom, and it just hung on tighter. I watched it and it would flutter its wings to keep its balance and they clearly weren't broken. But its tail feathers were barely there. I finally nudged the headboard a little while trying to get myself into a better position and OH JESUS WHY IS ITS PERCH MOVING it flew outside. Oh good! Cue the sound of a thunk. The bird had flown into a window.  It was just dazed, it flew drunkenly up to a tree when we approached to see if it was okay, but here is my question: is that little birdie doomed by having what looked like pulled-out tail feathers? I don't know if a cat got to it in a yard and it just barely got away, but it didn't seem to be able to steer very well. Not that it should have stayed in the garage -- no food, potentially dangerous stuff to get into, etc. -- but now I'm worried about that guy out in the neighborhood. 
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Aug 10, 2008 20:08
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MortarBored posted:bird Sometimes nature seems cruel to us. You gave him more of a chance than he would have had, if he stayed stuck in the garage.
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Aug 10, 2008 21:03
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MortarBored posted:can't shake them tail feathers I know that with a lot of birds, there tail feathers can be released if they get caught on or by something, and they will grow back over time. So it's possible that it was recently attacked, got away, flew into the garage in a daze, and then was too scared/dazed to leave. Take that with a grain of salt, as I'm no bird expert, but here's hopin'!
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Aug 10, 2008 22:06
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Nannypea posted:I have a 6mth old chocolate lab-ish that is very energetic. We play ball and Frisbee but no mater how much I work him he's ready to go again in 20 mins. I work from home and he doesn't understand that I cannot play all the time because I need to work to make money to buy him bones. Would getting another dog help by giving him someone else to play with or would it just mean I had 2 dogs that now want my undivided attention? I would wait 6 months or so before getting another dog. Sometimes a second dog just makes things worse, for example 1 barking/spazzing dog turns into the pair of them getting all riled up. Bad habits also spread like a freaking disease, so its ideal if you get the first one trained in obedience so it'll serve as a good example to the new dog. As far as working from home goes, I would get a couple of interactive treats and use them to feed your dog throughout the day. I had a trainer that used this to help tire out her Labs. She used these: http://triplecrowndogs.com/product/1591/Everlasting-Treat-Ball.html and my dogs love it too. Keeps them busy for longer and makes them work for their food. You could also jazz up your usual exercise routine with specialized classes once or twice a week; something like dock diving, flyball, agility (personal favorite), rally obedience, freestyle dance (ugh) or tracking. The mental exercise on top of the physical exercise may be the key to truly tiring him out.
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Aug 11, 2008 01:12
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So I know there are a couple of threads regarding this issue on the first 5 pages or so, but I'm looking for some more advice. I've got two cats, around 3 years old each, one male and one female. The female almost always throws up after eating her late meal. We feed her dry food (Orijen Cat) three times a day, once around 7:00, once around 4:00 and once around 11:00. Sometimes she'll go 3 or 4 days without throwing up, but otherwise it's basically every day at least once. I think it's because she's eating too fast, but even when I spread out her evening meal over 3 or 4 "mini-meals" throughout a few hours, she'll still usually throw up at some point. It's always undigested kibble and she just goes right back and eats most or all of it after a couple of minutes if I let it sit there. She acts completely happy and normal otherwise - she is maintaining her weight, normal bathroom functions, etc. I haven't tried putting "obstacles" in her bowl or getting a special bowl, but I'm not sure it will help. I'll give it a shot over the next few days, but is there anything else I can try?
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Aug 11, 2008 02:01
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I have a question I've been curious about for some time -- i don't know whether it's been addressed or not recently. What, if anything, are cedar and pine shavings good for? I know that they can be dangerous for some animals due to some compounds they release. So why are they still sold? Are there any animals they're safe for?
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Aug 11, 2008 02:09
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Our 2.5 month old new kitten does not clean its butt. I see here grooming herself in other places but not where it counts the most (for me). There is usually what looks like litter stuck to her butt and any attempts from me to clean her, sigh, have resulted in my getting about a million scratches. Will she eventually learn to do this herself or is it too late?
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Aug 11, 2008 02:55
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We have fleas, and we keep getting bitten. So we were going to try some bug repellent lotion on ourselves to prevent the flea bites while we treat for fleas. The chemical in these lotions that I'm curious about is Deet, is it toxic to cats? If so what are the levels in which it's toxic, how serious is it? Our 7mos old kitten likes to kneed our necks and lick/bite them so we are kind of worried about the topical application of this chemical to our necks... Also, we want to get rid of these fleas ASAP what is the best way to treat our small 2br/2bath apartment with carpeted floors excluding the kitchen/bathrooms? Our vet offers overnight pet sitting and there is a hotel close by for over night stays for our selves if some kind of powder or that D. Earth stuff, can't remember the name... I mean pretty much any treatment option is available to us, we just want to get rid of them as quickly as possible as the flea population exploded over the one day we were gone (our cats weren't even here) and it's driving me INSANE. Read up a bit on how fleas works, I guess that makes sense when we come back with no cats why there are so damned many of them. Masey fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Aug 11, 2008 |
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Aug 11, 2008 03:08
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