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Masey posted:We have fleas, and we keep getting bitten. The best way to proceed would be to treat the cats with Capstar (available from your vet), follow up with Frontline or Advantage on all pets in the house, vacuum or wash everything that you can in your house, and then follow up with the DE (diatomaceous earth). The Capstar will kill the fleas currently on the cats. The Frontline will provide longer protection and kill the additional fleas that hatch and hop on for a meal. Vacuuming is surprisingly effective at removing eggs from the house, but remember to get rid of all that debris that you suck up ASAP. A single flea can produce huge numbers of eggs, so you'll need to keep up the vacuuming for a few weeks at the very least. Additionally, you'll want to stay on top of the Frontline/Advantage schedule, so you can prevent future infestations.
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Aug 11, 2008 03:36
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Okay, thanks, for both the optimistic and  options in responses. I will hope for the best for the bird, and hope that he has plenty of time to fatten up again for winter if he makes it through his crazy-steering weeks.Go go go, little birdie! (I later found out that my cat was chilling at that exact window at the time and didn't know  to make of a bird suddenly slamming into the other side.)
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Aug 11, 2008 04:05
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Prune Juice posted:Our 2.5 month old new kitten does not clean its butt. I see here grooming herself in other places but not where it counts the most (for me). There is usually what looks like litter stuck to her butt and any attempts from me to clean her, sigh, have resulted in my getting about a million scratches. Will she eventually learn to do this herself or is it too late? Make sure it's litter. I thought that for a bit about my kitten when we first got her until I took her to the vet and found out it was a tape worm. One of the signs is small white, rice like things hanging around the anus. Really gross, but really easy to treat. Masey posted:Also, we want to get rid of these fleas ASAP what is the best way to treat our small 2br/2bath apartment with carpeted floors excluding the kitchen/bathrooms? The best method I've seen for getting rid of fleas I found on the aspca website. I can't for the life of me find the article right now but it went something like this. Put Frontline or advantage on your animal the same day you bug bomb your home. To do one but not the other isn't going to stop the fleas. They said something like, the fleas on your animals only make up 15% of the fleas in your home. The rest are in your carpet and bedding in various stages of development. Get spray as well as the bombs you set off. Before you leave vacuum every nook and cranny, under couches, under beds, in the corner, alone baseboards as best you can (they like to hide in dark places) to pick up everything you can. Part of a flea life cycle is in a cocoon. While in this cocoon it's liquid tight. The spray will not be able to penetrate in and kill the fleas. However, the vibrations from the vacuum will sometimes draw them out. The spray you get should also have IRA(?) in it. It's like a birth control for fleas. So while you might not be able to kill them, once they are born they will not be able to reproduce. Once you have vacuumed, cleaned and sprayed everywhere, Frontline/Advantage your pets, set off your bombs and leave. You shouldn't have to be away over night for this. Pop the kitties into a carrier and go to a friends house or go for a nice drive to the country. In a few weeks, you'll want to do this process again. Remember the fleas in the cocoons? Well they've been born now and while they can't reproduce they are still there biting your animals. So vaccuum, spray, Advantage/Frontline, bomb one last time. After this up keep should be simple. You've gotten rid of the bugs in the house that keep jumping on your pets so you should only have to do your regular Frontline/Advantage treatments. Make sure to monitor the other animals they play with and be sure those animals have been flea treated and don't let other animals in your home that haven't been treated as well. That would only start the cycle over again. If you live in a house, make sure to get flea control products for your yard and do that with your house. The initial war against fleas is time consuming but up keep after that should be easy. I had to do the process three times myself and end up doing it about twice a year. I live in an apartment so while I can keep my place decently I can't control what my neighbors around me do with their homes so over time the fleas migrate back over.
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Aug 11, 2008 04:59
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Oh god 32 pages, I'm sorry if this was covered before but- A friend just moved into a new apartment and the previous owner must have had a dog, because there is a really heavy pee smell right next to the door. You can't smell it anywhere else in the apartment other than the vestibule, but it's super-rank right in that area. She wants to get rid of the pee smell but it must have soaked into the carpet or whatever is under it. The landlord isn't going to do anything about the problem and she can't replace the carpet. What is the best product she can get to remove the smell? Are there any sprays or formulas that will soak all the way into whatever is under the carpet to neutralize the scent of the pee? Even if it's possibly been around for years? Also if she gets a dog or cat in the future and can't get rid of the smell, would it pose a problem (like the pet would also pee in that spot?)
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Aug 11, 2008 05:56
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trufflepig posted:A friend just moved into a new apartment and the previous owner must have had a dog, because there is a really heavy pee smell right next to the door. You can't smell it anywhere else in the apartment other than the vestibule, but it's super-rank right in that area. She wants to get rid of the pee smell but it must have soaked into the carpet or whatever is under it. Really, the pad and carpet needs to be replaced and she shouldn't have to do this herself. If it's urine damage, the only thing to really get rid of it is pad and carpet replacement. When I moved into my new place and put down on my application I had a dog my landlord told me if my dog went on the carpet he, by law, had to replace the carpet and I'd be charged to me. Whether he was just trying to scare me or not I don't know. I haven't looked at the laws since my dog is well trained and I take her out like clock work. It's really lovely of her landlord to refuse to help her and I'd have her take a look at the land lord tenant laws in her area. Even if there is nothing specifically about urine damage there should be things about a land lord providing a clean living environment. In the mean time, a carpet cleaner can help. You can rent them at certain groceries stores. There are also products like Natures Miracle that has enzymes in it that break down the urine. She might have to use both a few times to make the smell lessen. After that, if she gets a pet, it don't think it will harm them (someone correct me if I'm wrong) however it could make them think "hmm...guess it's okay to pee here." At least that would be my worry. This was not her fault and she should not have to absorb the cost even for a carpet cleaner and products.
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Aug 11, 2008 06:08
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KilGrey posted:Make sure it's litter. I thought that for a bit about my kitten when we first got her until I took her to the vet and found out it was a tape worm. One of the signs is small white, rice like things hanging around the anus. Really gross, but really easy to treat. The vet did a fecal test on her just 4 days ago, everything came out negative, however, she still had me administer Panacur for 3 days "just in case". The stuff on her bottom really does look like litter, it's dark gray or black (once I thought it was blood). She happened to have it for the vet visit and I asked the vet and she looked and just said that the kitten didn't clean herself and no biggie. But we can't have kitty with dirty butt hanging around on my pillows so I really hope she gets better at this...
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Aug 11, 2008 14:55
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trufflepig posted:What is the best product she can get to remove the smell? Are there any sprays or formulas that will soak all the way into whatever is under the carpet to neutralize the scent of the pee? Even if it's possibly been around for years? efb but Nature's Miracle, Petzyme, or any other enzymatic cleaner you can get at Petsmart will do the trick. Saturate the carpet in the area and let it dry, you don't need or want to suck it back up with a carpet cleaner. Really hose the stuff down, it needs to penetrate down to the pad beneath. You can try the blacklight trick if it's cat pee to narrow down the area.
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Aug 11, 2008 16:25
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Little Angel posted:I have a question I've been curious about for some time -- i don't know whether it's been addressed or not recently. They're good for nothing. I have a huge bale of cedar in my garage right now that was "donated" to our rescue, and after a little research I found that NOBODY wanted it. Even the horse, goat, and llama rescues turned me down, because these animals can ALSO have bad reactions to the phenols. Originally, before the ill-effects of phenols were known, all that people cared about was the fact that cedar and pine oils drive off bugs. You can still buy high-end closets lined entirely in cedar for storing your expensive ballgowns and suits and what-not, to protect them from moths without the mothball smell. People naturally reasoned that, well, animal waste attracts bugs, so we should use cedar and pine for bedding because it will drive off those bugs. This spurred a new source of revenue for the lumber industries, as they started to resell their waste sawdust as bedding. (Prior to this, straw was the most often used bedding for small animals, horses, dogs, etc). The reason they are still sold is that ignorant owners still want them (cheaper than aspen/paper beddings, less messy than a bale of straw, and they either disbelieve that they are bad, or don't care because they like the smell/bug deterrence and don't give a poo poo if it kills an animal) and because the manufacturers producing it are primarily lumber companies who honestly don't give a poo poo about animal care. They just want to sell a product that is otherwise going to COST them money, by forcing them to pay for waste disposal. They've also got good deals with the pet supply companies who repackage it (like Kaytee) who really don't care about animal welfare either. They just want to make money by giving the owners what they are most willing to pay for, regardless of whether it's good for the animal, and they know plenty well that most idiots won't buy higher-end bedding, so keeping the low-cost stuff is a must for keeping profit margins high.
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Aug 11, 2008 17:12
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alucinor posted:They're good for nothing. I have a huge bale of cedar in my garage right now that was "donated" to our rescue, and after a little research I found that NOBODY wanted it. Even the horse, goat, and llama rescues turned me down, because these animals can ALSO have bad reactions to the phenols. Make closet sachets and drawer inserts and sell them on Etsy. Mention that you're using the money to fund your rescue efforts. At least then it won't just sit in your garage and collect dust.
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Aug 11, 2008 17:44
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My hamster just lies there sometimes. Her cage is clean, she has sufficient food + water and treats and a wheel and toys, everything a hamster could ever want! I know it's not sleeping because she always sleeps in her igloo with the bedding all around her like blankets  Her appearance is also totally healthy. But why does she just lie there sometimes? She has her eyes open too when she does this. If I talk to her or put my hand in the cage she generally moves around, maybe goes to run on the wheel but then she just lies there again later. Sometimes she presses up against a corner of the cage too. She never used to do this until a few weeks ago. She is like about 1 year old.
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Aug 11, 2008 19:04
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hitension posted:But why does she just lie there sometimes? She has her eyes open too when she does this. I don't know a whole lot about hamsters, but I know my rat has several spots in his cage where he'll just lie down and chill out, awake and aware but totally sedentary. He also sometimes sleeps on top of his house instead of inside it. I think a lot of small animal behaviors are beyond our ability to comprehend. She might be too hot, though, and flattening herself out will cool her - thus the cage-pressing, if the corner feels cool to the touch or something. You could try putting something cold in the cage and seeing if she presses against it.
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Aug 11, 2008 19:25
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I posted before about my kitten having gas, and my vet prescribing yogurt to help. Well, it seems that it isn't helping at all - and quite possibly getting worse. She said that we may have to change his food. I have been feeding him Solid Gold - along with my 2 other cats who LOVE it and have had no gas. In the past, when my little girl was the kitten's age (she is 5 now), she happened to have horrible gas. My old vet said it was normal and that it will pass in time. And it did. When she was about one, it just seemed to disappear on its own. Do you think I should go through and switch their food? Should I give the yogurt more time? Or is there another option I could try? I am a little worried about switching the food because my two 5 year olds absolutely love the Solid Gold and I have noticed a big change in how they look and activity levels.
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Aug 11, 2008 20:29
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Hmm, so rodents chillaxin is totally normal? Well, I'll try the ice cube thing. I remember her keeling over (different from this just lying there) during a heat wave when I didn't have A/C, and the ice cube helped her out, but lately it's been like 70 so I doubt it's the heat.... I was just worried cuz she never used to do that. Then I thought it was the middle-aged ness setting in. No more out partying on the hamster wheel til 4 in the morning, well I guess I can't complain with that.
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Aug 11, 2008 21:23
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Kitten colds. Our kitten (about 10wk) came to us with a URI. We took him to the vet, got him some medicine, but not quite in time to get it completely. After another vet trip, he got an antibiotic shot and we were told to finish his meds (ended last Monday). He's been much better until today, when he started coughing again. I'm taking him to the vet tomorrow, is there anything I should do until then? He's eating all right, which is promising. Also, how long does it normally take a URI to clear up in kittens? Thanks 
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Aug 11, 2008 22:16
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BlondieIsMyNameO posted:how long does it normally take a URI to clear up in kittens? Our kitten had a slight URI when we got her, and with the meds it took about 10 days for it to clear up. Then again, she was almost 4 months old when we got her, so her little immune system was a bit more developed.
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Aug 11, 2008 22:23
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I was wondering where would be a good place to get some fun cockatiel toys? We have 3 tiels, and of course they have toys already, but I know it is good to mix it up so they stay stimulated. It just seems like every regular pet store sells the same few things, and the one bird exclusive store in the state carries mostly larger parrot toys.
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Aug 12, 2008 00:56
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Parsnip posted:I was wondering where would be a good place to get some fun cockatiel toys? We have 3 tiels, and of course they have toys already, but I know it is good to mix it up so they stay stimulated. It just seems like every regular pet store sells the same few things, and the one bird exclusive store in the state carries mostly larger parrot toys. Is there a Petco nearby? I know they carry shredders toys and the shredding strips. Great fun for tiels and similar sized birds.
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Aug 12, 2008 01:21
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I figure this is probably the best place to ask this. One of my friends owns a horse. It's a standard-bred, rescue horse -- it was malnourished and abused when she adopted it. She's had it for about two years, working at the stables where it's boarded to pay for it, giving it proper vet care, and working with her nearly every day. It is a bit skinny, but on weight-building feed under vet orders. Yesterday, she showed it in showmanship and walk/trot at a county fair. During the showmanship part, someone she didn't know said that her horse was unhealthy-looking, underweight, and should not be rode. My friend was upset, but tried her best to brush it off. She did well in both showings. Later, I found out that a Humane Society rep approached her (I think while she was still at the fair) and told her that they had gotten complaints about the health of her horse. She asked if there were adults around (my friend is 18), and who owned the horse. She asked for vet information, where the horse was boarded, addresses, etc. As she told us about it later, my friend was getting close to tears -- I imagine it's pretty upsetting to be told that you are abusing your horse that you love and take care of. The question I have is one of civil rights. How much information did she have to give? Is there any time where you can just say "gently caress off" to unsubstantiated claims and withhold private information like your vet information, stables, home address, phone number, etc? That just seems like a gateway for harassment.
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Aug 12, 2008 15:42
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dakana posted:The question I have is one of civil rights. How much information did she have to give? Is there any time where you can just say "gently caress off" to unsubstantiated claims and withhold private information like your vet information, stables, home address, phone number, etc? That just seems like a gateway for harassment. Depends, really. If the HS rep has law enforcement powers, then she's required to cooperate and give info. If they're just a private organization then she can tell them to take a flying gently caress and they can't do anything about it. However, to save time and annoyances down the road she's done alright to give her info to the rep, since now if anyone else complains they will have the whole story and can tell complainants they've looked into it and the horse is under a vet's care and gaining weight.
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Aug 12, 2008 16:29
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I'd always thought that the humane society and animal control were two completely separate entities. Is this not the case? I would have assumed that the HS rep was trying to decide if she wanted to make a report to Animal Control about it, or how severe it would be. I was under the impression that the two organizations might help each other out, but not necessarily be related.
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Aug 12, 2008 17:14
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Again, it depends. Some areas have AC which is run by the municipality, and it's run by the police department or other division (we used to be under Human Services and then got moved to being under Public Works x2). In some places they have no government-run AC and the municipality contracts with a private HS to provide services like a shelter and animal pickup. Generally in these cases since the HS is acting on behalf of the governmental entity they still can write tickets, etc. Some areas like here have government AC and then private HS's that provide services to the public like adoption and spay/neuter, in addition to having an investigations department. However, the HS has no law enforcement powers and cannot write tickets or impound animals, if they find condtions to be bad then they contact AC for that stuff. In some places like NYC, they have AC run by the municipality, and then a separate, private HS with full police powers granted to them by the government (hello Animal Cops).
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Aug 12, 2008 17:38
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dakana posted:The question I have is one of civil rights. How much information did she have to give? Is there any time where you can just say "gently caress off" to unsubstantiated claims and withhold private information like your vet information, stables, home address, phone number, etc? That just seems like a gateway for harassment. I really don't have a problem with what the HS did. Your friend is taking care of her horse, it's no issue to show the paper work. They are there to protect animals and they investigated, found nothing wrong and probably went about their day/told those complaining to shut it. Why didn't your friend just tell the people who initially asked her that the horse is under the care of a vet and they gave the OK to her to be ridden? Not that it's any of their business but most animal cruelty is stopped by people speaking out and reporting it. Luckily your friend is one of the good ones where there was nothing to worry about, too bad it's not the case every time. Your friend shouldn't have taken it so personally especially since she knows she has a rescued horse that appears a little underweight. No one else has ESP and knows she adopted the horse and has improved it's condition and did not make it under weight herself through neglect. Then she could ride around with her nose in the air the rest of the day knowing the HS is telling anyone who approaches them to gently caress off for her. Even if the HS has no legal bearing in your area I believe they can call the police to act on their behalf as they are trained in animal issues as well. So if she refused the HS person they could have called in a cop to assess the situation. KilGrey fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Aug 12, 2008 |
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Aug 12, 2008 17:39
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This is why I can't watch that Animal Planet show: the skinny horses make me sick. If you starve a dog long enough, eventually it will bite you and attempt to escape. Apparently, if you stop feeding a horse, it will stand there and starve to death.
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Aug 12, 2008 17:42
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Dr.Khron posted:This is why I can't watch that Animal Planet show: the skinny horses make me sick. Oh god, are you talking about Animal Cops or whatever it's called? That show always makes me a very unpleasant combination of furious and heartbroken, and it makes me want to move to NYC to become an ASPCA officer.
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Aug 12, 2008 18:18
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Im going to be moving across country by plane in a month and have booked a flight that allows me to take my cat in the cabin. I have a few questions because I've never flowen with a pet before. -Ive been getting mixed messages on getting my cat sedated during the trip. Some of my friends and relatives are telling me I absolutely need to go to the vet and get her sedatives and others have told me it will kill her. I probably wont sedate her to be on the safe side, but is there a good reason to give her kitty sleeping pills before the trip? -Is there a type of cat carrier you would recommend for the trip? I want her to be comfy if she has to be stuck in there for six hours. Any general advice on traveling with a cat would be appreciated as well. I doubt poor Buddy will like it much. NoControl fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Aug 12, 2008 |
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Aug 12, 2008 21:32
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I watched an Animal Precinct the other night that ended in the feel-good show of the century. There were these two young dogs together who were starved and almost frozen to death after being abandoned. They were rescued and recuperated, and then each was adopted by a separate couple. After 12 months, the two couples learned that their dogs were discovered together, so they met at a park to reintroduce their dogs. They were so incredibly excited to see each other and played like they'd never been happier. The owners' grins were all mile-wide. I about squealed. Thanks, everyone. I guess I just needed someone to point out that there really isn't an alternative to investigating like that. They had no way of knowing whether or not the horse was unhealthy other than just looking at it, and even then you can't discern the breed and what build is normal. I guess it is always worth it to investigate each claim.
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Aug 12, 2008 21:46
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NoControl posted:-Is there a type of cat carrier you would recommend for the trip? I want her to be comfy if she has to be stuck in there for six hours. I haven't flown with a cat so I don't know about the sedative bit. I've flown with my dog a couple of times though. What does the cat do when you put her in a carrier and drive around in the car? That might be an indication of how she'll act on a plane.
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Aug 13, 2008 02:53
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porkchoppie posted:it makes me want to move to NYC to become an ASPCA officer. There is part of me that would love to do that, but there is a larger part of me that knows I'd punch the first mother fucker I came to on a case of neglect/abuse. I have a short fuse when it comes to animal abuse, I know most do however I don't think I could maintain a professional outer appearance. And I'd find it hard to walk away from things I know are wrong but are 'legally' okay.
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Aug 13, 2008 10:36
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NoControl posted:-Ive been getting mixed messages on getting my cat sedated during the trip. Some of my friends and relatives are telling me I absolutely need to go to the vet and get her sedatives and others have told me it will kill her. I probably wont sedate her to be on the safe side, but is there a good reason to give her kitty sleeping pills before the trip? Though it's not my cat, a friend of mine had a cat who, while a nice cat, was absolutely bonkers. The kind who would go tearing around the house or pounce your feet for no reason at all. Said friend flew to her parents all the way across the country about twice a year WITH the cat and I know she used sedatives from the vet. From what I heard from her she never had any problems and neither did the cat.
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Aug 13, 2008 14:07
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From what I've heard/read, the real danger about using sedatives during flight is when the animal isn't in the cabin. There's a larger change in air pressure and those drugs can work dramatically different at the equivalent of whatever high altitude they keep things at, so a reasonable dose can abruptly turn very dangerous. That said, this isn't straight from a vet. That was just what I found when deciding whether to drive with or fly with my cat to come for a visit home. And there is still a dip in air pressure in the cabin between the ground and what they keep it at for cruising altitude, so check with your vet first and make sure your cat's in very good health. But it should probably be fine if those precautions are taken.
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Aug 13, 2008 19:37
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This morning I had my cat spayed. This is a much belated event, as she is almost 2 years old, and it's also the first time I've owned a female cat myself (the rest of my horde are all males, neutered long ago). I got her back from the vet this afternoon, along with the instructions to keep her away from food and give her a few days to recover. I have antibiotics and pain pills for her to start tomorrow. The thing is, I'm just a little concerned about her. My vet told me not to worry too much, but I can't help it. She's slept all evening since she got home (about 5 hours ago), and she's unresponsive if I stroke her. She just opens her eyes mournfully then closes them again and ignores me. She's usually incredible affectionate, even when terrified or stressed out. Granted she's never had surgery before. She has used the litter tray (for very tiny pee) but I haven't seen her drink yet. She's currently curled up on my spare room bed next to the feliway diffuser I bought today. Her ears are really cold too Her body seems warm though, so I guess it's quite possible she just feels crap. Can someone reassure me that this is normal for a female cat before I hit the speed dial button for the emergency vet? My males never moped this much.
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Aug 16, 2008 20:51
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Most cats won't start eating normally for a day or two. The older they are when they have the surgery, the longer usually it will take them to recover. Since it has been less than 24 hours, I would definitely relax. Bleeding, swelling, those are the things I would worry about. I definitely wouldn't worry about not drinking or eating or playing for a day. If she hasn't started within 2, then I'd start getting concerned. Neutering is generally easier (and cheaper for that reason) to recover from which is why your males weren't that bad.
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Aug 16, 2008 21:36
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Helanna posted:This morning I had my cat spayed. This is a much belated event, as she is almost 2 years old, and it's also the first time I've owned a female cat myself (the rest of my horde are all males, neutered long ago). She's going to feel like poo poo for about a week. Coming off the anesthesia can make animals mentally wacked out for awhile too, on top of the physical pain. I'd give her a nice and cozy place to sleep where the boy cats won't be tempted to mess with her too much. She'll pretty much just lay around for a few days until she starts feeling less pain from the surgery.
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Aug 16, 2008 23:41
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Yeah, she'll sleep a lot for the first two days from anesthesia. After the first day keep a close close eye on her so she doesn't go for her incision. We put my cat in the bathroom when we went to bed at night so she wouldn't wobble around and woke up every few hours to check on her. About 1am we walked in to pools of blood everywhere and little bloody kitty paw prints leading behind the toilet where she was hiding. She licked her incision open. (the invisible glue kind.) She also thought it would be a jolly good idea to hide belly down in her cat box so she had cat little all stuck into her wound and belly. We took her to the e-vet and she got fluids, a blood transfusion and a shitload of antibiotics for the infection she'd likely to get from the litter box. 1 spay = $150 1 e-vet visit and open incision? = $980 How that could have been avoided? e-collar = $8 MAKE YOUR CHOICE!  Not all cats are as smart as my cat but get one if there is a time you can't be there with her for the first few days. She'll hate you, but it's better to be safe. And she'll look all retarded cute.  Click here for the full 2040x1704 image. She'll also get all sleepy and mopey when you give her the pain killers. The vet told me to not give my cat any as she seemed fine and became more prone to jumping up on things and running around like a tard because she couldn't feel anything so she didn't know 'ow this is hurting me'. So just be aware of what she's up to if you do give her them.
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Aug 17, 2008 01:23
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I just fed my 3 month old kitten a few pieces of Whiskas Temptations Dentabites and now I am freaking out because the back of the package, which I stupidly didn't read before giving her any treats, says it's for adult cats only. Is my cat going to be ok?? It has chlorophyll, how bad is that for kittens?
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Aug 17, 2008 01:43
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Prune Juice posted:I just fed my 3 month old kitten a few pieces of Whiskas Temptations Dentabites and now I am freaking out because the back of the package, which I stupidly didn't read before giving her any treats, says it's for adult cats only. Is my cat going to be ok?? It has chlorophyll, how bad is that for kittens? From what I understand it's not bad for kittens. She'll be fine. Growing up my mom never bought our cats kitten food when they were kittens, always adult food and treats. It's obviously better to give your cat stuff formulated for their age, but it's not going to harm her that you gave her a treat designed for an adult once.
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Aug 17, 2008 01:53
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Thank you so much for the reply. She gets fed top of the line kitten food but she is such a picky kitten that I have had to experiment with a multitude of cat foods and treats to finally find something that she likes. I discovered just yesterday that she LOVES the chicken whiskas treats I got her and I was so happy I went out today and bought a whole bunch of whiskas treats. She's so annoyed with me now because I keep following her to make sure she doesn't pass out or something.
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Aug 17, 2008 01:59
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Prune Juice posted:Thank you so much for the reply. She gets fed top of the line kitten food but she is such a picky kitten that I have had to experiment with a multitude of cat foods and treats to finally find something that she likes. I discovered just yesterday that she LOVES the chicken whiskas treats I got her and I was so happy I went out today and bought a whole bunch of whiskas treats. She's so annoyed with me now because I keep following her to make sure she doesn't pass out or something. haha, quit stalking your kitty. She wont keel over, trust me. The store will probably let you return the unopened packages as well. I'm not sure how well they keep if you wanted to save them until she's an adult. I've had some dry out to much and become hard. They can be expensive, so go get her some kitten ones or some toys so she'll forgive you stalking her.
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Aug 17, 2008 02:04
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KilGrey posted:e-collar = $8 I actually asked my vet about this, and her reaction was that for all the cats she's ever spayed/neutered, she's never needed a collar. I was pretty surprised. Thanks for the advise from everyone anyway; I've kept a close eye on her and slept in the spare room with her last night so that I could wake up every couple of hours to check on her. The wound has stitches, not glue, so I think she'd have to try pretty hard to open it up. So far she's only given it a cursory few licks, she doesn't seem to be obsessing over it. She didn't move off the bed for over 12 hours, but this morning I got a purr and a nuzzle off her finally. She wasn't so impressed when I gave her the pain and antibiotic pills, but I rewarded her with a little piece of roast chicken, which she tucked into, albeit a little less enthusiastically than usual. She's under the spare room bed now, I guess so that she's in the dark and quiet to relax. I'm off today and tomorrow to keep an eye on her. Hopefully by then she won't need watched too much, though I can pop home from work a couple of times to check on her after that. Thankfully the other cats aren't bothering her at all.
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Aug 17, 2008 09:40
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| # ? May 13, 2024 23:47 |
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Why does my dog not like to eat out of his bowl? I have a 4 month old Jack Russell puppy, and he barely eats out of the bowl. It's not the food, because he goes apeshit eating anything I spill while filling his bowl, but then stops eating. If I take the food out of the bowl and put it on the floor he attacks it, but won't eat out of the bowl. Is it just a scavenging instinct, like he doesn't want a handout but would rather find it on his own?
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Aug 17, 2008 22:16
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