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Haikeeba! posted:The second type is dead easy to get off - you basically just unscrew them, but a lot of the time they are sealed units inside, and you can't replace the washers, meaning you have to get a new one. BUT your mileage may vary. The best advice I can offer is to take off the fitting (making sure you remember to turn off the water beforehand) and have a butchers at the innards. If you can get the valve out, the parts generally aren't expensive or rare. It's definitely DIYable at any rate. It's the second type. I'm not afraid to dig into this kind of thing, it's just that I haven't dealt with any plumbing in roughly a decade so it's a bit foreign to me, and what little I have done has all been bathroom sinks where you can easily get at both sides of the issue, not showers. Thanks for the tip, hopefully I don't have to replace the whole drat thing because the set that's in there is plenty nice and I'd rather not have it mismatched too badly.
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Aug 26, 2008 22:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's the second type. I'm not afraid to dig into this kind of thing, it's just that I haven't dealt with any plumbing in roughly a decade so it's a bit foreign to me, and what little I have done has all been bathroom sinks where you can easily get at both sides of the issue, not showers. Well, the good news is that type is easy to get off the wall. So unscrew it, have a bit of a gander at the insides and see if you get lucky. It shouldn't be too hard, so don't stress about it, just remember to turn off both the hot and cold water first, and have some teflon tape for when you put it back on. Let us know how it turns out.
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Aug 27, 2008 00:12
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Soup Dragon posted:Something like this I would guess That's exactly what I have. It's extra good with floor heating 
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Aug 27, 2008 06:35
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EssOEss posted:Can I splash-proof my bathroom door and doorstop somehow? Right now, the water from showering hits them and there's a nice puddle outside. I'd like to avoid installing a shower curtain since the showering area is pretty small. I can't think of any reasonable alternative, though... am I just going to have to put up a curtain? Would a different shower head solve the problem? One that has a finer spray rather than large droplets of water which tend to bounce everywhere. You can buy adjustable heads with firm / medium / soft spray settings. Decreasing the height of your showerhead may also help if its unnecessarily high. EDIT: EssOEss posted:In any case, I gave up and installed a shower curtain.
Soup Dragon fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Aug 27, 2008 |
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Aug 27, 2008 16:31
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Soup Dragon posted:Something like this I would guess Interesting, I have never seen something like that. I stayed with a dutch family for a few days when I went to Europe about 10 years ago, and their shower was like a corner of the laundry room, but it was curtained off. What is that on the right side there? Are the toilet and sink in that room as well? As for your problem, if this is a common arrangement where you live, then surely there's a simple solution. I have a thing on the bottom of my screen door for instance, with a rubber fringe to keep bugs and dirt out (I'm not sure what it's called and I can't find a picture), so maybe something like that would work?
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Aug 27, 2008 19:06
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stubblyhead posted:..... What is that on the right side there? Are the toilet and sink in that room as well? ..... That was just a random image I pulled off Google image search. Normally the drainage is a little more controlled with a small step, a curtain and a slightly steeper floor gradient. Also it generally built at the far end of the bathroom or in a separate room leading from the bathroom, so yes the room can also contains sinks, baths and toilets etc.
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Aug 27, 2008 20:22
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stubblyhead posted:What is that on the right side there? Are the toilet and sink in that room as well? Yes. I have the toilet, sink, washer, dryer and shower all in one room. This is very common over here. stubblyhead posted:As for your problem, if this is a common arrangement where you live, then surely there's a simple solution. Most I've seen do not have the shower this close to the door, so there is no problem. And I have to assume the ones with a shower close to the door... install a shower curtain  I could probably waterproof the doorstop with silicon all over and some rubber seal at the gap but the primary factor against this is that it would look rather ugly. But at least the shower curtain seems to be working - no more puddle outside the bathroom. Oh, and I noticed my wooden doorstop got totally warped by all this water...
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Aug 28, 2008 13:19
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Are there any inexpensive tools that I could use for cutting through a truck tire with 2 ply steel reinforced treads? I'm trying to make shoes and I'll be damned if I can find any tires with all nylon treads lying around. I've been working on this thing with a utility knife and wire cutters and I don't think my hands can take it any more.
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Aug 28, 2008 17:46
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Rogetz posted:Are there any inexpensive tools that I could use for cutting through a truck tire with 2 ply steel reinforced treads? I'm trying to make shoes and I'll be damned if I can find any tires with all nylon treads lying around. I've been working on this thing with a utility knife and wire cutters and I don't think my hands can take it any more. Dremel and patience, or hacksaw, and patience. Bandsaw isn't cheap, but would work fine.
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Aug 28, 2008 19:37
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Is there any hope for some seriously dull cultured marble, or am I just stuck replacing it? I'm not entirely sure whether the problem is mineral buildup alone or if the hard water has permanently damaged the resin. Some areas look great with a coat of wax thrown on, others don't really improve at all. Vinegar makes minor improvements if you soak it (which is rather difficult on vertical surfaces).
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Aug 29, 2008 06:31
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I've been melting casting grade 14k gold using a propane/oxygen torch. Not the smartest thing in the world, but it's what I have.. The result is very brittle and far from malleable. Is there any ways to make it softer? I feel as though I missed a step in my internet forge schooling.
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Aug 31, 2008 02:46
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Gimpalimpa posted:I've been melting casting grade 14k gold using a propane/oxygen torch. Not the smartest thing in the world, but it's what I have.. The result is very brittle and far from malleable. Is there any ways to make it softer? I feel as though I missed a step in my internet forge schooling. I'm not an expert on casting, but it sounds like you're getting impurities into your gold. Is everything as clean as you could possibly make it? Are you directly heating the gold, or indirectly heating it through a bowl or something? I would imagine directly heating the gold with a propane torch will dump impurities into the mixture. Please note that I cannot emphasize enough that I am not an expert on casting. It just sounds like the material you're working with in the end is some weird alloy that's full of stuff that shouldn't be there.
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Aug 31, 2008 05:08
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Gimpalimpa posted:I've been melting casting grade 14k gold using a propane/oxygen torch. Not the smartest thing in the world, but it's what I have.. The result is very brittle and far from malleable. Is there any ways to make it softer? I feel as though I missed a step in my internet forge schooling. Also here's the BLacksmithing/Metalwork thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844
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Aug 31, 2008 05:28
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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drat I wish I found that thread earlier. Thanks.
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Aug 31, 2008 19:03
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Hello DIY I recently came into possession of a bitchin' mini-fridge for free (works fine, was just kind sticky and dirty but it cleaned up wonderfully), but it is missing one of the shelves. The other shelf is a sheet of glass that slides in. I was considering just cutting a new shelf using plexiglass, but not knowing the price of plexiglass/being lazy and not wanting to cut it (my roommate should have the tools though) I was inclined to see if anyone had any other suggestions.
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Sep 1, 2008 01:30
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disturbedcow posted:I was considering just cutting a new shelf using plexiglass, but not knowing the price of plexiglass/being lazy and not wanting to cut it (my roommate should have the tools though) I was inclined to see if anyone had any other suggestions. Check the phone book for a local appliance parts company. Shelves would almost certainly be available as replacement parts, and appliance parts are often stupid cheap. If that fails and glass would work, you might try calling a glass shop and seeing how much tempered glass would be in the size you need. Plexi could work, but unless you're buying it for framing pictures (which tends to be more expensive plexi), you're usually stuck buying it in a huge sheet.
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Sep 1, 2008 01:59
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Molten Llama posted:Check the phone book for a local appliance parts company. Shelves would almost certainly be available as replacement parts, and appliance parts are often stupid cheap. A cut sheet of tempered glass would probably cost more than a full sheet of plexiglass. I'd suggest seeing if there's a plastic supply shop nearby, or barring that a machine shop. If you explain what you need someone would probably do it for cheap.
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Sep 1, 2008 02:50
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Hi there, I have a question for those with brick laying experience. I'm considering bricking in a brick-pillared carport myself over having a bricklayer do it for me. The slab is already laid, all that needs to be done is laying some walls and fitting windows an a door. Its not a particularly big job, pretty much laying in one wall. Is there any trick to laying bricks? I haven't done it before, though I will be attempting to make a brick wood-fired oven/bbq before hand to get my technique right. To those with bricking experience, are there any tricks I can employ? Anything I should be wary of? Any brick specific tools I should use (I will have a trowel, wheelbarrow for the mortar, and a level) which will make the job alot easier? Or should I get a bricklayer in and save myself a world of hassle?
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Sep 1, 2008 09:01
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My question: how difficult is it to replace a bathroom vanity yourself?
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Sep 1, 2008 16:42
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FYAD KNIGHT posted:Hi there, I have a question for those with brick laying experience. Do the BBQ first, experiment with your mixes and get stuck in. Fight the oppressive bricklayers oligarchy and strike out on your own! Shes Got Sauce posted:My question: how difficult is it to replace a bathroom vanity yourself?
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Sep 1, 2008 18:38
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I'm looking for something, but I don't know what it's called. I'm building a cornhole set for tailgating this year, and I'd like to join the two boxes together to make one bigger box to make it easier to carry things around. I'm trying to find some kind of latch to put on all four sides of the game to secure them together. I walked around Home Depot for a while yesterday and didn't see anything, and nobody seemed to understand what I want enough to help me. I'm envisioning something like this image, where I can move a wire loop on one half over a catch on the other half and then tighten them together: That's what I have in mind, but if somebody has a better idea I'd love to hear it. I thought about eye screws and hooks, but I don't think that it will look nice or be very functional.
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Sep 1, 2008 22:03
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The Human Cow posted:That's what I have in mind, but if somebody has a better idea I'd love to hear it. I thought about eye screws and hooks, but I don't think that it will look nice or be very functional. I think what you're looking for are "draw latches." I suggest searching for them online, at a website like https://www.mcmaster.com or something similar. I imagine Home Depot should also sell them if you specifically ask for draw or tension latches.
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Sep 1, 2008 23:32
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FYAD KNIGHT posted:Hi there, I have a question for those with brick laying experience. This is a copy of a post I made in the last thread where someone asked about bricklaying, it should be mostly relevant. Yeah, it's pretty simple to do. If the bricks are still in good condition, it's simply a matter of buying some mortar, a trowel, and going to work. First, pull all the old crap off, and scrape it clean. Run a string line, so you know where the top of your wall will sit, and this will ensure a level top course. Then mix up your mortar, and lay down a base layer. The mix should be about the consistency of a thick cake mix. It should slowly gloop, not run, but it should still be wet. If you make a little mound with your trowel, it should stay standing and not slump or run down. Don't try and do the entire wall in one go, the mortar will go off before you get to it. Do half a metre or so at a time if you haven't layed brick before, or a metre if you have. Put a furrow in the middle of the layer - it should look something like this (although I usually furrow it a bit more shallow than this):  This will ensure the brick sits nicely. The mortar should cover right to the edges of the bricks and when you lay the brick into it, it should bed properly. Before laying the brick however, you need to spread mortar onto one end, to form the vertical mortar between it and the previous brick. This is called buttering the brick, and if you are a brickie, or do a lot, you will pick up technique. There is a certain flow of moves that makes it fast and efficient, but the amount you are doing you won't learn it. (No offense intended) Your best bet is just to make sure there is an even and consistent amount on the end of each brick, and that it covers the entire end. It will look something like this lovely diagram I pulled from google image search:  When it comes to finishing the joints, there are a few different styles, which can be seen in this lovely image I pinched from another site:  I won't go into all the different methods. If you look at your wall and tell me which style is used on the rest of it, I'll tell you how to do that style. And that's your basics for laying brick. There are different additives for mortar, but you probably don't need any. Mortar mix you buy from a hardware store or landscaping place should have lime in it, but if you can't get mortar ready mixed, mix your own with proportions of 1:3.25:0.25 cement:sand:hydrated lime. You shouldn't need additives like bondcrete or whathaveyou. If you need to match coloured grout, you can buy coloured oxides you mix in, but be careful because its easy to put too much in. Also the bastard stuff stains like buggery, so don't get it on anything you don't want coloured. Basically, it's perfectly DIY-able, but depending on the regulation wherever you live there may be restrictions on who is allowed to do load-bearing walls or supports. If you have any other questions, ask away.
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Sep 2, 2008 00:51
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Blowupologist posted:I think what you're looking for are "draw latches." I suggest searching for them online, at a website like https://www.mcmaster.com or something similar. I imagine Home Depot should also sell them if you specifically ask for draw or tension latches. That looks like it's exactly what I want. Thanks!
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Sep 2, 2008 02:36
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Haikeeba! posted:This is a copy of a post I made in the last thread where someone asked about bricklaying, it should be mostly relevant. Thanks very much! What would be the best way to make rake finishes?
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Sep 2, 2008 10:00
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Ah. Bugger, I knew there was something that wasn't going to be useful, and you've hit on it. Raked joints are used on interior walls, but they aren't weatherproof. your choices are flush, concave, V, or extruded. Flush is exactly what it sounds like, the mortar is flush (flat) against the brickwork. Concave is again as it sounds a slightly concave finish - you basically compress the mortar with a rounded tool, it's a very good joint as it's waterproof, and holds the bricks well. Extruded joints is very easy - you use extra mortar when laying the bricks, and squish them down tightly so the mortar is forced slightly outwards. V is the hardest joint, and not really worth doing in my opinion. It basically looks like a pointy triangle of mortar coming out from the joints. Personally, I think it looks butt-ugly though. If you pick one of those styles I'll give you more details.
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Sep 2, 2008 13:05
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I'll have to see what method the pillars are and let you know which effect I'm after. Thanks again.
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Sep 2, 2008 14:23
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No worries.
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Sep 2, 2008 15:09
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Is there a good way to get black scuff marks off white paint? We just moved into a new apartment and managed to get some scuff marks on the walls in the process. I had this happen at our old place and never figured out a good way that didn't gently caress up the paint and leave its own mark instead.
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Sep 3, 2008 20:25
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My AC unit had been freezing up for the past week and I finally got a heating and AC guy to look at it today. He told me the coils have a small leak in them and that the system had lost 3 of 8 lbs of freon (he told me this could have taken weeks). He filled it back up and told me some new coils should be in early next week and that my AC should run fine until then. I've had the system running for a couple of hours now and while it's not freezing up it doesn't seem to be cooling as quickly as it used to. Is this a normal problem when you add that much freon back or when the coils have a small leak or is this a bigger problem I should have him look at when he comes back?
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Sep 3, 2008 23:37
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Encryptic posted:Is there a good way to get black scuff marks off white paint? We just moved into a new apartment and managed to get some scuff marks on the walls in the process. I had this happen at our old place and never figured out a good way that didn't gently caress up the paint and leave its own mark instead. A melamine foam eraser should do it. According to wiki in the US "the name-brand "Magic Eraser" is made by Mr. Clean (Procter & Gamble)". In Australia they're called "white magic" which I personally think is hilariously politically incorrect. The picture i found of magic eraser confirms they are indeed the same thing: 
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Sep 4, 2008 00:39
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Haikeeba! posted:A melamine foam eraser should do it. According to wiki in the US "the name-brand "Magic Eraser" is made by Mr. Clean (Procter & Gamble)". In Australia they're called "white magic" which I personally think is hilariously politically incorrect. Great, thanks! I was planning on trying that so it's good to know I wasn't completely off-base. Shoulda picked one up when I was at Lowes the other night, but hindsight is 20/20.
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Sep 4, 2008 18:35
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I picked up one of these vintage juicers at a flea market, is there any way to restore the metal part to it's original shiny-chrome? There is some staining on the inside metal parts too, probably from not being cleaned since Kennedy was in office. Tried scrubbing it down with Bon Ami but it didn't really do anything.
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Sep 8, 2008 02:17
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It's hard to tell from the picture, but it looks pretty pitted. If so, you might be hard pressed to clean it up. Autosol and Nevr-Dull are two brands that I have used that are pretty good on chrome, and I think they are both imported from the US, so you might look into those. Use one of them and hit it with a cotton buffing wheel. But if it's very pitted you will need to get it re-plated professionally.
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Sep 8, 2008 03:44
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I'm interested in learning to make high-quality stuffed animals, similar to those you can buy in stores. Does anyone have any links to get me started? All I've been able to find are low quality felt monstrosities.
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Sep 8, 2008 08:45
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How to I fix a screen door's screen? A raccoon pulled it out of the doorframe while getting into the house via a small hole.
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Sep 9, 2008 23:38
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TLG James posted:How to I fix a screen door's screen? A raccoon pulled it out of the doorframe while getting into the house via a small hole. A raccoon pulled the screen door out of the doorframe? I'd move somewhere far away. Replacing individual screens can be easy or hard depending on the design of the screen door. My experience has been that the screens are generally held in via screws or a series of tabs. Remove the broken screen, measure it, and pick up a replacement at a hardware store.
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Sep 10, 2008 04:55
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Blowupologist posted:A raccoon pulled the screen door out of the doorframe? I'd move somewhere far away. This loving raccoon is no joke. He's almost my arch enemy. He fears no one (well humans at least) and will hiss at you. I tried to stop him from getting into our trash by putting a bungie cord on the lid to the main frame. He actually knocked it over, and was able to overhead press the lid open enough to crawl in (and out) of it. All while I was standing there. It actually drew a crowd of like 3 kids on bikes watching the raccoon because it was at like 8 pm. I tried to get it to run away, and it just started walking at me hissing aggressively.
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Sep 10, 2008 22:50
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TLG James posted:This loving raccoon is no joke. He's almost my arch enemy. He fears no one (well humans at least) and will hiss at you. I tried to stop him from getting into our trash by putting a bungie cord on the lid to the main frame. He actually knocked it over, and was able to overhead press the lid open enough to crawl in (and out) of it. All while I was standing there. It actually drew a crowd of like 3 kids on bikes watching the raccoon because it was at like 8 pm. I tried to get it to run away, and it just started walking at me hissing aggressively. Fix your door, and then solve your raccoon problem... 
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Sep 11, 2008 03:13
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Unreal posted:I'm interested in learning to make high-quality stuffed animals, similar to those you can buy in stores. Does anyone have any links to get me started? All I've been able to find are low quality felt monstrosities. Try posting in the sewing megathread Dr Scoofles just posted a pretty high quality looking Teddy Bear and might be able to help you out. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=2701891&pagenumber=13#pti15
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Sep 11, 2008 20:25
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