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KilGrey posted:Is there any particular reason you want her to eat wet food? At 3 months old dry food is fine if she likes it. I read on here that some people give their kittens wet food once or twice a day and free feed dry food so erm I thought that that's how it's supposed to be done. My vet said nothing about her diet and basically sent me home with a small sample of Science Diet for kittens. Everything I feed her is from the nutrition thread-basically foods with no grains, no fake meats, etc. I went today and got some Merrick and Chicken Soup and another brand recommended on here from some pet store way out (btw thanks to those who made the recommendations above). So, basically, I thought they were supposed to eat both kinds but...no? Aaaand here I am with another question. I just got back from the vet. I mentioned her coat is a bit rough and she said she thinks it may have a parasite for which she gave me medication (Pyrantel) and asked me to drop off a stool sample at some point within the next few days. 3 weeks ago they tested her stool and there were no parasites but they had me give her medication for 3 days anyways "just in case". Am I being taken for a ride here or is this normal. She used to be a street cat before I got her if that makes a difference. Also, I mentioned that sometimes she scratches behind her ears, which look clean and there are no fleas on her, and she took some swab sample and apparently found some infection which requires medication and regular cleanings. More money, more stress on a kitten still skittish from her rough prior life. I don't even know how I'm going to do this. I just don't know if I should just shut up and do this "just in case". I don't know why I'm doing this, I should just go ahead and have a kid. Kidding  .
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Aug 28, 2008 00:46
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Prune Juice posted:Aaaand here I am with another question. I just got back from the vet. I mentioned her coat is a bit rough and she said she thinks it may have a parasite for which she gave me medication (Pyrantel) and asked me to drop off a stool sample at some point within the next few days. 3 weeks ago they tested her stool and there were no parasites but they had me give her medication for 3 days anyways "just in case". Am I being taken for a ride here or is this normal. She used to be a street cat before I got her if that makes a difference. Also, I mentioned that sometimes she scratches behind her ears, which look clean and there are no fleas on her, and she took some swab sample and apparently found some infection which requires medication and regular cleanings. More money, more stress on a kitten still skittish from her rough prior life. I don't even know how I'm going to do this. I just don't know if I should just shut up and do this "just in case". Parasites will not generally cause a cat's coat to be rough. Certain ones like ringworm can cause the coat to be patchy and fall out in clumps, but if your kitty has all her fur and it's just coarse, it probably has to do with her having a poor diet before you found her more than anything else. Once she's on her new and improved food for a few weeks, you should see a big difference in the softness of her fur. You can also give her fish oil supplements to help soften the coat. As for her ears, she could have ear mites, or it could very well be an infection. I wouldn't take a chance on this one, though it does sound like your vet is trying to squeeze money out of you.
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Aug 28, 2008 00:57
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Thanks for the reply Porkchoppie. Her ears look clean, the doctor actually had to dig in and try again to get a bit of wax out of it for a sample. She specifically said infection and not ear mites. Her coat is full but it's dull and not as soft as it could/should be.
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Aug 28, 2008 01:08
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Prune Juice posted:I read on here that some people give their kittens wet food once or twice a day and free feed dry food so erm I thought that that's how it's supposed to be done. My vet said nothing about her diet and basically sent me home with a small sample of Science Diet for kittens. Everything I feed her is from the nutrition thread-basically foods with no grains, no fake meats, etc. I went today and got some Merrick and Chicken Soup and another brand recommended on here from some pet store way out (btw thanks to those who made the recommendations above). So, basically, I thought they were supposed to eat both kinds but...no? Nah, you don't have too. The reason people have said that is for nutritional reasons as there are somethings that wet food will have that dry food wont in lesser brands. But if she is on a high quality dry food that is nutritionally balanced it shouldn't be an issue. If you still want to give her wet food, then certainly go for one of the ultrapremium brands but it doesn't have to be done that way, especially if she really doesn't like it. Which is a bit odd as most cats loove wet food, but kitties can be picky. My cat is dry only unless it's a special treat. God knows I pay enough for it the little bugger is going to EAT it. 
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Aug 28, 2008 01:11
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Prune Juice posted:Thanks for the reply Porkchoppie. Her ears look clean, the doctor actually had to dig in and try again to get a bit of wax out of it for a sample. She specifically said infection and not ear mites. Her coat is full but it's dull and not as soft as it could/should be. Earaches will make then paw at their ear, so certainly go with whatever they prescribe for this. Did your vet say anything about mange, round worm or anything with the coat? Certainly get some fish oil and break it open in her food, that will help her coat regardless.
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Aug 28, 2008 01:13
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It's scratching she's doing as opposed to just pawing at her ear. It's not all the time, but it does happen and I just assumed that once she got treated for fleas she'd have no reason to scratch, although...I don't have fleas and I still get itchy sometimes, now that I think about it. I think I worry too much. The doctor didn't look her all over, I asked her why her coat isn't as soft as it could be yet and she said it's probably a parasite she may have and she gave me the medication. I looked her over, I see no patches of fur missing, no flaking, basically nothing that would alarm me, just a dull coat. I actually have fish oil at home right now so I will use some of that. Thanks very much Kilgrey.
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Aug 28, 2008 01:47
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Prune Juice posted:I read on here that some people give their kittens wet food once or twice a day and free feed dry food so erm I thought that that's how it's supposed to be done. My vet said nothing about her diet and basically sent me home with a small sample of Science Diet for kittens. Everything I feed her is from the nutrition thread-basically foods with no grains, no fake meats, etc. I went today and got some Merrick and Chicken Soup and another brand recommended on here from some pet store way out (btw thanks to those who made the recommendations above). So, basically, I thought they were supposed to eat both kinds but...no? If you're free-feeding her, you may want to consider changing that. Some cats are fine on free-feeding, but some don't have the "I should stop eating now" switch and will overeat. I recently made the change over to feeding my three cats a measured amount in the morning and in the evening (and switched them to Innova), and honestly, they have barely seemed to notice. But it makes me feel like I'm helping them be healthier as they age, and the one who was starting to lean towards packing on a little extra has lost the extra. As far as wet food goes, my babes get it as a treat. None of them will eat more than 1/3 of a can at a time anyway (I've tried), so giving them more would be a waste.
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Aug 28, 2008 02:26
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My town just opened its first off leash dog park after 8 years of fund raising. No one around here seems to have ever been to a dog park before, and there is much confusion about etiquette. The dog park has a website with a few basic rules http://www.fidoinc.org/ but a local internet forum is all abuzz with questions. Does anyone have a favorite site about how to behave at a dog park, and how to socialize your non-socialized dog? I'd love to be able to direct people to a concise and comprehensive guideline, the ones I've googled seemed kinda lacking. Edit: Link fixed...a stray comma got in there somehow Meow Cadet fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Aug 28, 2008 |
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Aug 28, 2008 02:41
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Is rabies vaccine necessary for a purely indoors cat?
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Aug 28, 2008 03:44
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Daddy Fantastic posted:Is rabies vaccine necessary for a purely indoors cat? If your cat bites someone at the vet's office or your house, you may (depending on the laws in your area) have to either do a very, very long and expensive quarantine period or euthanize the cat if it isn't vaccinated. So it's in everyone's best interest to vaccinate every pet for rabies.
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Aug 28, 2008 03:46
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Meow Cadet posted:My town just opened its first off leash dog park after 8 years of fund raising. No one around here seems to have ever been to a dog park before, and there is much confusion about etiquette. The dog park has a website with a few basic rules http://www.fidoinc.org/, but a local internet forum is all abuzz with questions. Does anyone have a favorite site about how to behave at a dog park, and how to socialize your non-socialized dog? I'd love to be able to direct people to a concise and comprehensive guideline, the ones I've googled seemed kinda lacking. Your link isn't working. I don't take my dog to the dog park so I'm unsure on one particular website, but looking at these, they seem to have some pretty good tips on dog AND human etiquette: http://www.alamedasmalldogs.org/etiquette.htm http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/sample/a_bark_in_the_park.html http://www.animalbehaviorassociates.com/dog_park_etiquette.htm Lioness posted:If your cat bites someone at the vet's office or your house, you may (depending on the laws in your area) have to either do a very, very long and expensive quarantine period or euthanize the cat if it isn't vaccinated. So it's in everyone's best interest to vaccinate every pet for rabies. I also feel you should vaccinate for Feline Leukemia. My vet doesn't do it if you tell them your cat is indoors but I had mine done anyway just in case she manages to make a great escape or if for some reason I have to bring another cat into my home. Better safe than sorry. The vaccinations aren't that expensive for peace of mind.
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Aug 28, 2008 04:03
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Yeah, despite what some wackos on the internet will tell you, vaccinations are very safe. Its in the best interest of your pet, yourself, and society at large to get ALL of the vaccinations for your animals. Some of them are a little pricey, but an oz. of prevention and all that...
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Aug 28, 2008 13:22
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Encryptic posted:Is there a good (read: safe and won't hurt the cat) way to get rid of knots and mats in a cat's fur? My youngest cat has developed a number of matted spots and knots in her fur recently for some reason - she got sick some months ago and made a full recovery, but the vet gave us pills she needs to take for the rest of her life and I noticed that after she started taking the pills she started to develop these knots. It may be a coincidence, but she never had trouble with knots before, despite having medium-length fur. Our oldest cat is a Persian mix with beautiful long silky fur and he never has trouble with knots either, surprisingly. You'd be better off with a dematting comb than the thing you listed- something like this http://grooming.petedge.com/Bernina...bCategoryId=479 Your cat will be far less stressed if you're the one dematting rather than the groomer. Do be careful though, those combs are razors (sharp!) and you can hurt yourself and/or the cat. If you can keep up with the brushing daily, especially in the areas that rub when she walks then it'll go a long way towards keeping her free of mats. Any sort of dematting is painful, and having to shave down a matted animal also sucks for everyone involved. Consider getting a Furminator to help reduce the amount of fluff that the cat has, too.
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Aug 28, 2008 15:24
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MoCookies posted:You'd be better off with a dematting comb than the thing you listed- something like this http://grooming.petedge.com/Bernina...bCategoryId=479 Your cat will be far less stressed if you're the one dematting rather than the groomer. Do be careful though, those combs are razors (sharp!) and you can hurt yourself and/or the cat. If you can keep up with the brushing daily, especially in the areas that rub when she walks then it'll go a long way towards keeping her free of mats. Any sort of dematting is painful, and having to shave down a matted animal also sucks for everyone involved. Consider getting a Furminator to help reduce the amount of fluff that the cat has, too. Great, thanks for the reply. I've never had this much trouble with a cat developing knots so I didn't know what I should do, aside from taking her to the groomer. I just didn't want to hurt her OR let the problem get worse than it is - I've heard how bad that can get. I'll get that comb ASAP and try it out - that does look like it would work better. She's very trusting and patient with me so hopefully it shouldn't be too difficult to use it on her.
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Aug 28, 2008 16:31
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Encryptic posted:Great, thanks for the reply. I've never had this much trouble with a cat developing knots so I didn't know what I should do, aside from taking her to the groomer. I just didn't want to hurt her OR let the problem get worse than it is - I've heard how bad that can get. Once you've gotten the mats out, be sure to start brushing her EVERY DAY. It's going to be about the only way you'll be able to prevent the mats from occurring again.
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Aug 28, 2008 17:21
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Daddy Fantastic posted:Is rabies vaccine necessary for a purely indoors cat? I don't know where you live, but here in IN we had to get special permission from the state to not give Lacey her rabies vaccine. Lacey has a nasty reaction to it, but we still wanted to get her registered with the state and they won't do it if you don't have proof of a rabies vaccine. Also, many of the boarding places in town won't take a pet if you can't provide proof of vaccination, so if you have to run out of town in a hurry and have no one to look over your cat you could be in a pickle if your boarding places are the same.
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Aug 28, 2008 17:54
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As of late, when my cat wants to wake me up in the morning she jumps up on my computer desk and pushes the speakers off on to the floor. This isn't a harmful habit or anything since she usually does it around the time I get up anyway, but I'm just getting tired of picking the speakers back up off the floor every morning. I was wondering how I could go about training her not to do this. I can't really think of a solution since I am sleeping when she does it and don't wake up until they hit the floor. Has anyone had their cat do something similar and did you have any success stopping it?
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Aug 28, 2008 18:16
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japanese girl posted:As of late, when my cat wants to wake me up in the morning she jumps up on my computer desk and pushes the speakers off on to the floor. This isn't a harmful habit or anything since she usually does it around the time I get up anyway, but I'm just getting tired of picking the speakers back up off the floor every morning. You might just try to put up something to block her access to the speakers when you go to bed at night. If you do that long enough, she'll probably find another (possibly more annoying  ) way of waking you up and forget about the speaker thing.
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Aug 28, 2008 18:25
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MoCookies posted:You'd be better off with a dematting comb than the thing you listed- something like this http://grooming.petedge.com/Bernina...bCategoryId=479 Do you know if I can get something like this from the local Petco/Petsmart? I'd hate to have to wait for it to come in the mail if I order it online, though I'll do that if that's the best option. Fire In The Disco posted:Once you've gotten the mats out, be sure to start brushing her EVERY DAY. It's going to be about the only way you'll be able to prevent the mats from occurring again. Yes, I'll definitely be doing that. She's not real keen on being brushed, but I'll manage.
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Aug 28, 2008 18:55
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She'll probably become better about it if it's done every day, same time, like a routine. Especially if you give her a treat afterwards... 
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Aug 28, 2008 19:20
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japanese girl posted:As of late, when my cat wants to wake me up in the morning she jumps up on my computer desk and pushes the speakers off on to the floor. This isn't a harmful habit or anything since she usually does it around the time I get up anyway, but I'm just getting tired of picking the speakers back up off the floor every morning. My cat shows her displeasure at us by getting up on the bathroom counter and knocking everything off. It's kinda funny when we are at home and start to hear everything hitting the floor. I'm sure she has a lot of fun doing it. We got a pretty basket to put everything in so she couldn't just bat things down willy nilly but she figured out how to knock the whole basket down. Cats are evil. In addition to blocking her path do you have something heavy you can set on top of it so she can't move it. Encryptic posted:Do you know if I can get something like this from the local Petco/Petsmart? I'd hate to have to wait for it to come in the mail if I order it online, though I'll do that if that's the best option. You can get brushes at Petco. I'm not sure if they'll have the specific one but they'll have dematting combs.
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Aug 28, 2008 20:15
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Another hermit crab question. I now have two crabs in a well-furnished 10g aquarium (thanks PI!). But I'm not sure exactly how much to feed them. I know they're like fish, in that you should only feed what you think they'll eat, but I'm looking for a general guideline. They're both normal sized crabs, not jumbos. At the moment I have about a pinch of crab food, a few slivers of fresh pear, two chips of cuttlebone and a broken-up algae chip. Is this way off for a day's food, or about right?
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Aug 29, 2008 04:00
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Daddy Fantastic posted:Is rabies vaccine necessary for a purely indoors cat? Firstly, it may be required by law. Now we don't all always obey every law, but it can bite you in the rear end later when your cat bites someone in the rear end as Lioness pointed out. Secondly, even though your cat is indoors and never goes out, there is still a risk of a rabies exposure should a bat get into your home. Bats can get into the teeniest spaces, and if you come home to find a bat in your house along with the cat, it will be assumed that your cat came into contact with it and then it's the 6-month vet quarantine or immediate euthanasia, neither of which are pleasant options. A rabies shot is only 7 bucks around here, I can't imagine not having one since the peace of mind and safety of your pets is worth a lot more than that.
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Aug 29, 2008 16:37
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edit: never mind, problem solved
escape artist fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Aug 30, 2008 |
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Aug 29, 2008 23:32
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I have 2 cats, a brother and sister from the same litter, they are about 4 months old, they have been to a vet recently and are perfectly happy except for one thing... Over the last few weeks the boy cat has been removing things from their communal litter box and leaving them on the floor of the bathroom. He reaches his paws in from the outside and pulls things out of it and leaves them inches away from the box on the floor. They have always been loyal to the litter box without exception but this is obviously almost as annoying. When I change the litter, he is removing crap from it within minutes of there being something; but if the litter is old and needs changing, he does it much less. I am thinking that he hates his sister's pee and poop and wants it out of his litter box. Obviously I have no way of telling whose crap he is removing. My plan was to go buy a second box, but I just wanted to see if anyone had any input before I did that. And even if I setup a second box for them, is there some good way to teach them they each have their own? Maybe toss the crap he pulls out of box A into box B? Start them both with brand new, clean litter and let nature take its course? Thanks petgoons.
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Aug 30, 2008 21:47
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discore posted:Litter Boxin' I've always been under the impression that you should have one more box than you have cats, so I would definitely think that adding at least one more would be the place to start. I'd just add the extra(s) for now, and see if that helps, before carting poo around the house in hopes of teaching them box ownership.
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Aug 31, 2008 00:59
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discore posted:And even if I setup a second box for them, is there some good way to teach them they each have their own? Maybe toss the crap he pulls out of box A into box B? Start them both with brand new, clean litter and let nature take its course? Get a second box. Some cats automatically use one litter box apiece, others will use every available one. But, even if they do both use both boxes, it still may help. You definitely want two boxes, and if you have room, even a third may be a good idea. If you can't find a place for a third, try the second.
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Aug 31, 2008 01:30
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How much do people typically supervise the introduction process when bringing a new cat into the house? I have one two-year-old female cat who I adopted as a kitten, and I've been thinking for a long time about getting a second cat so they could keep each other company during the day, especially since I've been getting busier at work and spending less time at home. But, for the same reason, I don't really have copious amounts of free time to get them acclimated to each other. This is especially relevant because a) the most easily closeable room where I could sequester a new cat is my bedroom, which contains my current cat's litterbox and favorite chair; thus b) I doubt the door would stay closed very long if she had literally all day to paw at it. I'm already planning on getting a younger male, since I've heard opposite genders are easiest to introduce. I'm afraid of messing this up, because a few years ago my parents introduced a new kitten to an older cat and the two of them developed such a lasting animosity that they couldn't be trusted not to hurt each other if left alone together.
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Aug 31, 2008 04:56
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Heres a question: Why do people love Pitbull and Staffordshire Terriers? This is not a troll post, im genuinely interested as to why. Im a dog groomer and every pit or staff that comes in has some kind of issue. If it doesn't like other dogs than it hates cats, and if it likes dogs and cats then it hates kids, or is food aggressive. I see the same thing when i look on Petfinder (no cats, no kids, no dogs) There are just so many other breeds out there that seem to not have these issues, why is it that people like them? What are thier redeeming qualities? They are beautiful dogs.
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Aug 31, 2008 06:44
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Er, couldn't you say ask about a lot of breeds? Off the top of my head, Akitas are known for being dog aggressive, cocker spaniels are known for hating kids, dachshunds are often food aggressive, terriers of any kind are commonly hate cats... People just like certain breeds, and if they are in a situation where they can live with that breed- like, they don't have other pets, no kids, don't mind working with a food aggressive dog- then hey, that's great for them. All dog breeds have quirks and issues that make them less than ideal for many types of owners. Also, for pitties specifically, I think their a redeeming quality is their adorableness, does that count? They love their people and hell, they grin at you.
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Aug 31, 2008 07:02
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Aradekasta posted:How much do people typically supervise the introduction process when bringing a new cat into the house? I have one two-year-old female cat who I adopted as a kitten, and I've been thinking for a long time about getting a second cat so they could keep each other company during the day, especially since I've been getting busier at work and spending less time at home. But, for the same reason, I don't really have copious amounts of free time to get them acclimated to each other. I have been really lucky on this front and have never had to do the separation thing. My cats don't seem chill to me, but maybe they are... An already neutered male is probably your best bet; they're usually the most "neutral." Here's a couple of ideas though. First of all, get a second litter box before bringing home the boy, and place it somewhere outside of the bedroom. That way, your current cat can get used to using a different box, and you'll already have a box where you plan on confining the new cat. Secondly, you could definitely get a Feliway diffuser and have it going when you bring newbie home. Finally, I guess I'd just play it by ear. If they seem to get along without an issue, consider yourself lucky. If not, there are other goons who have done the separation dealio and can tell you better than me how it works best.
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Aug 31, 2008 13:09
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One of my cats has started drooling quite a bit out of nowhere. She was just at the vet on Friday, and yeah her teeth have a little tartar on them but no absesses or infected teeth or anything nasty like that. She's acting completely fine - eating like a pig, playing, snuggling, using the litter box - but she's just drooling a lot. I don't have any plants in the house, no cleaning products left out, and she doesn't go outside so I don't think she could've gotten into anything poisonous. Is this just a "keep an eye on it" thing, or should I make an appointment?
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Aug 31, 2008 20:26
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This has no doubt been asked here before, but.... Is there any harm in giving cats cheese once in a while? One of our cats in particular LOVES cheese, and occasionally we'll give her some. I'm talking perhaps once a week at most, and she only gets a tiny amount...a few little thin pieces which add up to less than the size of a 10p piece (or a quarter, if that makes it easier to visualise) in total. She's never shown any ill effects, but i've been told this can be bad for them....am I a terrible pet owner who's slowly killing his cat? edit: what about a little bit of tuna every once in a while?? :-/
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Aug 31, 2008 21:27
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moron posted:This has no doubt been asked here before, but.... As long as it's done in small amounts, only occasionally, you shouldn't see any ill effects. This goes for almost any human-food treat like tuna, or sandwich meat. One of my cats is really loving weird, and likes to eat things like Pop-Tarts and cereal, and so she gets those once in a blue moon. I figure the cereal she likes (unsweetened stuff like Kix and Cheerios) is probably better for her than salt-filled commercial cat treats you'd get from the pet store.
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Sep 1, 2008 00:02
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Can someone please reassure me that my kitten will grow out of her poop game behavior? She goes to her litter box and does her business and then spends the next 5 minutes playing with the bits, some of which I find on the floor. I am getting paranoid about her poop touching paws all over my carpets and bed sheets.
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Sep 1, 2008 03:12
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Women's Rights? posted:One of my cats has started drooling quite a bit out of nowhere. Oddly enough, mine has started doing the same. She's never been a drooler and it scares me as one of my old cats drooled like a basset hound complete with head shaking/drool spraying.
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Sep 1, 2008 07:55
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My kitty has had diarrhea twice this morning, along with a bit of solid poo. I think it may be my fault because I just started transitioning her to a new food (though it's the same brand as her old food), and I might have put too much of the new stuff into her bowl. I know that plain pumpkin is good for digestive troubles, and I know that she should get plenty of water so as not to get dehydrated. Can I also give her Pedialyte? And how much pumpkin/Pedialyte should a 6 month old, 5 pound kitten have?
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Sep 3, 2008 18:59
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KilGrey posted:Oddly enough, mine has started doing the same. She's never been a drooler and it scares me as one of my old cats drooled like a basset hound complete with head shaking/drool spraying. Drooling can be a sign of gum disease, tooth abscess, or other painful condition in the mouth. I'd get it checked out.
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Sep 3, 2008 20:42
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I have some flea treatment left over from when I had a puppy (it died while I was on vacation- my host family thinks it got bit by a poisonous snake  ).I have a cat now, and I'd like to use the flea treatment on him. Anyone know if there would be a problem with that? Or is it just a marketing thing, like I suspect?
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Sep 4, 2008 13:22
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Mugabe Glasses posted:I have some flea treatment left over from when I had a puppy (it died while I was on vacation- my host family thinks it got bit by a poisonous snake What kind of flea treatment? Advantage and Frontline work best, I'd stay way from other brands (Hartz for sure). A cat needs a very different dose than a dog does so don't just go by what you gave your puppy. If it doesn't say it's okay to use on cats along with dosing instructions on the box I wouldn't use it, or at least call your vet and check.
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Sep 4, 2008 13:26
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