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I think I'm gonna shoot a roll or two of film next week. Where should I get my film developed and scanned? Am I better off sending it in somewhere or going to a pro shop in town? Or should I just go to Walgreens? I prefer to save money but not at the expense of quality.
Haggins fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Sep 8, 2008 |
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Sep 8, 2008 01:11
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Haggins posted:I think I'm gonna shoot a roll or two of film next week. Where should I get my film developed and scanned? Am I better off sending it in somewhere or going to a pro shop in town? Or should I just go to Walgreens? I prefer to save money but not at the expense of quality. Pro shops are usually reliable, Wal-Mart or Walgreens is hit or miss. There's one guy working at Walgreens here that loves photography and takes good care of your stuff; at the same store this cranky woman works that I caught literally dragging film across the floor ("It won't hurt it"). Only way to find out is to waste a few rolls at various local joints and feel them out, or pay the premium for the 'pro' stuff.
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Sep 8, 2008 01:41
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35mm for something that is not critically important I just drop it off at a chain, those machines almost run themselves and as long as the employees are semi-competent it's not going to make much of a difference. 120 or anything that is for a project or job I take to a pro shop though. Scanning wise I do a mix of it myself (Epson 4990 Photo) and some sent out (drum scanned to 50-150MB). 35mm for fun, contact sheets, or 120 that I am going to be printing myself I just do it at home. Something for a job, large prints, or something that will end up as stock I send out.
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Sep 8, 2008 01:59
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I just got my new film-camera yesterday, a used EOS 1n with the PB-E1 motor drive, so far I'm loving it with my 50mm. The two rolls of T-Max 400 I shot through it were definitely sharper than my Yashica Electro 35 (though the Yashica has a terrible light-seal). I also ordered a CanoScan 4400F and a Holga 120N (just for fun). How many MPs can I expect from a 35mm negative on that scanner, and would they be good enough for 13x18 cm or larger prints? I was also wondering if anyone in here could enlighten me as to what is the 'best' developer for T-Max and Tri-X Pan? I've only used T-Max developer and fixer, are there any other developers that would be cheaper to use (Since T-Max is one use only for dev.)? And do I need hardener or something to make the negatives more scratch resistant?
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Sep 11, 2008 19:07
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Anybody know where I can get a 6x6 mask for my Holga? Freestyle has them for 3.99 but they appear to have this BS $25 minimum order thing. B&H also has them for the same price, but they don't stock them and it's a 1-2 week waiting period to ship them.
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Sep 11, 2008 22:34
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Back_From_Termina posted:Anybody know where I can get a 6x6 mask for my Holga? Freestyle has them for 3.99 but they appear to have this BS $25 minimum order thing. B&H also has them for the same price, but they don't stock them and it's a 1-2 week waiting period to ship them. Can't you just file out the 6 X 4.5 mask?
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Sep 11, 2008 22:59
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8th-samurai posted:Can't you just file out the 6 X 4.5 mask? Yes you can. Just make sure to smooth out the edges.
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Sep 11, 2008 23:15
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longview posted:How many MPs can I expect from a 35mm negative on that scanner, and would they be good enough for 13x18 cm or larger prints? I have a Canonscan 8600F and I get about 6-8mp out of tri-x, obviously more out of higher resolution film, I tend to not scan anything higher than 10mp though, If I need a big print someday I'll just rescan.
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Sep 12, 2008 04:21
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8th-samurai posted:Can't you just file out the 6 X 4.5 mask? Yeah I thought of that, but I'm no good at working with tools and building/modifying things. I'd probably just screw it up, and then I'd have no mask. Plus I want to keep the 6x4.5 around in case I ever want to use it again.
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Sep 12, 2008 06:25
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Back_From_Termina posted:Anybody know where I can get a 6x6 mask for my Holga? Freestyle has them for 3.99 but they appear to have this BS $25 minimum order thing. B&H also has them for the same price, but they don't stock them and it's a 1-2 week waiting period to ship them.
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Sep 12, 2008 06:27
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Just take the plastic piece out, you don't need to file it or anything.
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Sep 12, 2008 06:44
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^^^Yeah, that's what I'll do if I have no other choice. Since mine is an older model that only came with the 6x4.5 mask. The newer models come with both. The problem I have with the 6x4.5 is that if I'm holding the camera the "normal" way it's shooting in portrait format, and I prefer landscape. With the 6x6 I wouldn't have to worry about it anymore. That 70s Shirt fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Sep 12, 2008 |
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Sep 12, 2008 06:44
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Why don't you flip the mask 90 degrees? Or the camera when you're shooting. I like 6x6 though you should just shoot that 
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Sep 12, 2008 06:48
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The mask only snaps in one way and turning the camera every time is a bit of a nuisance, but since I also prefer 6x6 I think that's the way to go.
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Sep 12, 2008 06:59
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Just a heads up, Freestyle Photo is selling Arista II ISO400 35mm 24exp rolls in 20 count packs for $25. From what I've read, it's relabelled Agfa. I got two. 
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Sep 14, 2008 00:05
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Even better, buy the Arista Premium 400, it's Tri-X.
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Sep 14, 2008 03:05
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Reichstag posted:Even better, buy the Arista Premium 400, it's Tri-X. that's a good deal
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Sep 14, 2008 03:17
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I actually just bought 10 rolls of Aristacolor 400, looking at some shots on flickr it looks awesome, grainy as hell, and only a 1.80 a roll!
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Sep 14, 2008 05:28
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I need to get some 120 C41 souped and scanned (I have a scanner but would prefer to have some 'decent' ones done with development). Before sending it off to Dwayne's I just wanted to see if anybody had any other suggestions for mail order development -- Dwayne's is pretty good in my experience but I'm always open to other ideas.
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Sep 14, 2008 15:45
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Clayton Bigsby posted:I need to get some 120 C41 souped and scanned (I have a scanner but would prefer to have some 'decent' ones done with development). Before sending it off to Dwayne's I just wanted to see if anybody had any other suggestions for mail order development -- Dwayne's is pretty good in my experience but I'm always open to other ideas. Tangent to this question: When mailing in film (35mm/120) what type of mailer should be used? Does it need to be lined in any way or rigid? Is 120 safe if it's just wound around the roll and taped like normal? Inquiring minds want to know!
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Sep 14, 2008 17:43
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I was in here a while ago complaining about my camera possibly having a light leak. Turns out I'm just a dork and I was winding the film the wrong way once it was finished.  So whoever said it looked like sprocket agitation or whatever was dead-on. I've decided that Velvia is super fantastic. I just got back my slides from the store yesterday and they're so sharp and the colors are amaaazing. It's so expensive though, especially when the price of scanning is added on. I don't know how anyone could afford to shoot velvia on a regular basis.
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Sep 14, 2008 17:55
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MrMeowMeow posted:I was in here a while ago complaining about my camera possibly having a light leak. Turns out I'm just a dork and I was winding the film the wrong way once it was finished. If you buy Velvia online in bulk and do mail processing it can be around $10 /roll.
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Sep 14, 2008 18:55
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MrMeowMeow posted:I was in here a while ago complaining about my camera possibly having a light leak. Turns out I'm just a dork and I was winding the film the wrong way once it was finished. I shoot Velvia in 120 all the time. $6/roll at the local camera store for the film, and $6/roll for processing at the local lab. When I'm shooting 6x6 it's only about $1 per frame. Not all that expensive.
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Sep 14, 2008 20:12
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I hadn't even thought of buying bulk online and doing mail processing. Should I be looking at freestylephoto.biz for mail processing or somewhere else? I'm looking for a new lens to accompany my 50mm 1.8 and I mainly shoot nature stuff, so I guess I'd be interested in a wide angle. Any recommendations on what I should get for my canon ae-1? Oh and one last question, can lenses mounted on an AE-1 autofocus, or are they always manual?
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Sep 15, 2008 02:30
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MrMeowMeow posted:I hadn't even thought of buying bulk online and doing mail processing. Should I be looking at freestylephoto.biz for mail processing or somewhere else? The AE-1 hails from a time before autofocus was invented. As far as a wide-angle lens, I'd suggest a 28 or 35mm lens. KEH carries lots of 3rd party 28mm lenses for under $15.
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Sep 15, 2008 10:47
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Better yet is buying in bulk on the ‘bay. I got 20 rolls of slightly stale Velvia 120 for $38. Processing at a pro lab was only $3 where I used to live, but I’ll be back home in a week 
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Sep 15, 2008 16:08
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Camera store closing sale... couldn't resit and if I had more cash I would have more poo poo (Velvia from fridge $3 a roll). Less than $70 pictured. I was thinking of ordering Lucky 100SHD 120 film off ebay, and using the dektol to develop. I miss the zen of film so much, I just want some cheap stuff to kick around in my cheap TRL. Anyone have experience with it? For 10 rolls for $20 on ebay from China I think I'll give it a whirl regardless.
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Sep 15, 2008 20:02
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pseudonordic posted:The AE-1 hails from a time before autofocus was invented. As far as a wide-angle lens, I'd suggest a 28 or 35mm lens. KEH carries lots of 3rd party 28mm lenses for under $15. 
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Sep 16, 2008 16:24
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Jahoodie posted:Camera store closing sale... couldn't resit and if I had more cash I would have more poo poo (Velvia from fridge $3 a roll). Less than $70 pictured. Yeah, I bought a bunch of it when I lived in Beijing since it was only like 80 cents a roll there (and you could get a Seagull TLR or similar knockoff for $15!) I can't really give you specifics on the film since I'm a big baby that hasn't learned how to develop his own B&W film yet, but I have some of the results tagged on my Flickr
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Sep 16, 2008 16:43
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Luxmore posted:Canon made a few FD-mount AF lenses; I know I had a 35-70mm in the store a few months ago. They take AA batteries 
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Sep 16, 2008 22:16
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Friend with a friend at Hunts just got me a 20pack of Fuji Press 400 for 30 bucks... hot rear end poo poo.
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Sep 17, 2008 03:32
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 Who just bought a nokton 50 1.5? This guy. Been waiting to replace my Jupiter-8 for awhile, saw this on the bay for a good price, bought it. It'll be nice to shoot with a modern lens. Also, this is what happens when you shoot APX 400 at 3200(or thereabouts) in Diafine: 
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Sep 17, 2008 04:16
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Reichstag posted:
e: I think your lens will be better than my lens
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Sep 17, 2008 04:53
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Luxmore posted:I think your lens will be better than my lens "Newer, Sharper, Faster" not better. 
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Sep 17, 2008 04:58
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Reichstag posted:"Newer, Sharper, Faster" not better.
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Sep 17, 2008 06:09
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I just got my 4400F scanner, here's a test picture I did at 800 DPI, uncorrected: http://longview.be/uploader/uploads/20080917105551AMstianvsmatz.jpg Linked because I don't have resizing software on my laptop. Canon EOS 1N 50mm f/1.8 @ 2.8 TMAX-400
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Sep 17, 2008 09:57
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So after some googling around, I have an idea that might be crazy. I'd be doing very very low volume amount of film, and have 1 gallon dry mix bags of developer. Would it keep if I mixed it up and put the solution in sealed bottles (I'm a home brewer, so I have a bottle capper and blanks) purged with a heavy gas like butane? Then I could open up a few ounces of stock at a time, and be cheap/thrifty.
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Sep 21, 2008 00:13
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Jahoodie posted:So after some googling around, I have an idea that might be crazy. I'd be doing very very low volume amount of film, and have 1 gallon dry mix bags of developer. Would it keep if I mixed it up and put the solution in sealed bottles (I'm a home brewer, so I have a bottle capper and blanks) purged with a heavy gas like butane? Then I could open up a few ounces of stock at a time, and be cheap/thrifty. Just read the datasheets for the developer to figure out the shelf life once mixed. Or use Diafine, it'll probably outlast film.
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Sep 21, 2008 00:25
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Diafine lasts an insanely long time. Can someone tell me what the hell is going on in this photo?  and this one  Both are on Fujicolor 100 or Superia 100 on a Zeiss Ikon. This white thing shows up in a bunch of the shots on that roll, especially near the end. I was changing lenses a bit, but these may both have been shot with a 3rd-gen 50mm Summicron, which I guess isn't known for flare resistance. Although, I used the same lens for tons of shots on other rolls and on the digital with no flare problems. This doesn't look like regular flare to me anyway. The security guys at Heathrow refused to hand-check my film, and insisted that they had done "extensive testing" proving that their x-ray machines wouldn't damage film. The problem occurs in different places on each frame. What is this? Light leak? Improper development? Some crazy sort of flare? gib fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Sep 22, 2008 |
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Sep 22, 2008 19:50
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gib posted:Diafine lasts an insanely long time. You's hainted! 
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Sep 23, 2008 02:03
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