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Perhaps the landlord or someone installed an exterior security light on that wall?
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Sep 30, 2008 08:17
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Nope, there's nothing on the outside of the building. I'm on the second floor, by the way. 
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Sep 30, 2008 13:53
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Can you describe the noise some more? Does it feature any rattling? How loud is it? Is there any part in the wall where the noise gets louder? Are you able to fell it when you put your hand on the wall? Also, is your TV signal amplified in any way? What kind of fittings are on that entire side that has the balcony?
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Sep 30, 2008 14:07
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FYAD KNIGHT posted:Can you describe the noise some more? Does it feature any rattling? How loud is it? Is there any part in the wall where the noise gets louder? Are you able to fell it when you put your hand on the wall? The noise is like my kitchen light, a low humming that is clearly electrical. It's like my apartment is next door to the electrical room and a transformer is being noisy. I don't hear or feel any rattling. It's loudest when you put your ear to the wall, but it can be heard quite clearly (albeit not as loudly) when you're just in the bedroom either standing around or lying in bed. You can actually also hear it in the living room, but faintly, same when you press your ear to the wall. The noise is loudest in the part of the wall I marked on the diagram. There are no exterior fittings on the side that has the balcony, either above, below or on it. No amplification of my TV signal. It's simply hooked up to a digital cable box that goes into a coax outlet in the wall.
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Sep 30, 2008 18:32
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At this point, having eliminated the likely suspects, you might have to start thinking outside the box: Did you try turning off the main breaker for your apartment? (It looks like you did, but you might want to double check.) Is it constant, or does it sometimes vary or go away? On your drawing where are the windows, and where are the A/C units, for your apartment, and your neighbors (up down right and left) apartments? Do the apartments in the bulding share the same layout or are they mirror images? Oftentimes, the apartments next to each other will mirror so that the kitchen is next to the kitchen, bedroom is next to the bedrooom, etc.
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Oct 1, 2008 04:56
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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I'm at a loss as to what it could be... I think that the likely culprit is something that is reverberating through your wall from another area. Things such as extraction/exhaust fans, fluorescent ballasts, fish tank pumps, computer power supplies or anything that has a motor or uses a different voltage would be the likely cause.
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Oct 1, 2008 12:47
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kapalama posted:At this point, having eliminated the likely suspects, you might have to start thinking outside the box: I only removed the fuse that was marked "Bedroom/Living Room" and the noise went away. I left it removed for a while to relish in the silence... It's constant and doesn't vary. I checked for AC units above and below me, and there are none. I believe my dining room/kitchen connects to my one neighbour's bedroom/bathroom and my bedroom connects to my other neighbour's kitchen/dining room.
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Oct 1, 2008 16:19
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FYAD KNIGHT posted:I'm at a loss as to what it could be... Even when I can make it stop by removing the fuse to power that part of my apartment?
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Oct 1, 2008 16:20
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Do you pay for electric or is it included in your rent? I ask because it is possible that pulling your fuse stops the exhaust fan in the next door apartment's kitchen.
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Oct 1, 2008 21:08
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kapalama posted:Do you pay for electric or is it included in your rent? I ask because it is possible that pulling your fuse stops the exhaust fan in the next door apartment's kitchen. It's included. I only pulled the fuse out for a few seconds, and I'm sure it caused no harm.
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Oct 1, 2008 23:00
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Can anyone tell me what type of connector this is? Linked since they're kind of big and sorry about the terrible quality. http://frostedorange.com/brown/end.jpg http://frostedorange.com/brown/lock.jpg http://frostedorange.com/brown/back.jpg
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Oct 1, 2008 23:28
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ZeeBoi posted:It's included. No what I mean is the noise is probably from next door if power is included. There is no reason to wire each apartment separately, if they are not metered separately, so that noise is probably from your neighbor's apt. Make friends with yer neighbor so you can test to see if it is a fan in her apt.
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Oct 2, 2008 06:19
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Does the toilet drain line up with the 2 closet bolts? I have an old rear end toilet, the 2 closet bolts holding it down are 10.75" from the wall, can I assume I have a 10" from wall toilet? Don't want to pull the toilet to tell cos itll be a mess, wax cylinder is probably made out of dinosaur bones.
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Oct 4, 2008 22:21
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 Hey I hope you don't mind me sitting here rusting  Sup Left bolt is sheared on this flange when I pulled the toilet. Cant seem to get the bolts out, plus there is this hosed up seal between the tiles and flange that is all shitted up. Need some advice for either getting bolts out, pb blasting it now... I have a thread about it here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2975218
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Oct 5, 2008 22:11
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does anyone read this! I got the bolts off. Long story. Here's whats left.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. What do I fill the gap between the flange and the tiles with? Do I need to regrout it? I don't care about this place and neither do my landlords apparently. I could try figuring out how to grout, it sounds easy.
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Oct 6, 2008 19:19
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unclefu posted:Can anyone tell me what type of connector this is? It's some sort of microphone connector (defintely NOT xlr), at least that's as close as I can get going through my Newark catalogue.
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Oct 6, 2008 19:53
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unclefu: why not ask them? http://electro-mech.com/contact.html On their website they list this: C-02s control cable (two-Conductor, shielded)
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Oct 7, 2008 00:01
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Not an Anthem posted:does anyone read this! I read it but I had no useful advice. I enjoyed looking at the pictures. I would just use non-expanding filler foam, but that in no way means it is the right thing to do. (I use filler foam for everything: auto body work, plastic repair etc etc.)
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Oct 7, 2008 01:10
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I'm sorry if this has been asked here a million times, I tried looking through some threads but nothing seemed relevant. If you have a problem with tub/shower diverter, is there ANY way to fix it without taking the whole thing out of the back? The water isn't being fully diverted from either the shower or the faucet, so no matter if it's up or down, the water goes through both the shower and the tub faucet.
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Oct 7, 2008 01:15
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Thanks kapa, I was actually thinking the same thing.. however the floor needs to be replaced. Not my problem, told the landlord though. Banging the screws sideways didn't break the rusty seal the washers and bolt head had on the pipe (it was fierce), I used a screwdriver and a rubber mallet and eased a screwdriver under the washers so more PB Blaster could soak in. That worked on one side. The other side was TOAST, I cut it all out with a dremel. Big thanks to grover. I actually worried about the first time I sealed it enough that I got paranoid and bought a second wax ring, pulled it AGAIN after I was all done and it was running, and tightened everything down again from the bowl to the tank. Good thing I did too because after running it a bit I noticed the bolts from the tank to the bowl were loose where it plugs the tank. Anyways, gently caress toilets and my sympathies to plumbers. Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Oct 7, 2008 |
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Oct 7, 2008 02:34
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Chib posted:I'm sorry if this has been asked here a million times, I tried looking through some threads but nothing seemed relevant. I just went through this myself. As far as I can tell, most diverters are in the tub spout itself - so you just need to yank it off (it's probably threaded) and install a new one since the diverter parts cost nearly as much as the old spout you probably scarred up while removing anyway  Sounds like yours isn't opening or closing all the way, which is slightly odd. Mine just never closed all the way.
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Oct 7, 2008 23:46
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Is there an easy/smart way to fabricate a custom spring? Like an inch long and 1/4 inch around? I have one of those Hoover steam cleaners and the spring popped out of the stopper on the bottom of the supply tank, so it leaks soap all over the place.
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Oct 8, 2008 00:33
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drchipotle posted:Is there an easy/smart way to fabricate a custom spring? Like an inch long and 1/4 inch around? Unless you live seriously out in the middle of nowhere, you should be able to find a place that has springs. Auto parts stores and hardware stores are great. If all else fails, you can take a spring out of a ballpoint pen. Those things have been fixing all manner of slightly broken household and garage items for YEARS.
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Oct 8, 2008 03:37
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Not an Anthem posted:Anyways, gently caress toilets and my sympathies to plumbers. When California went through the big 'new toilets must be low flow' boom way back when, there were landfills of nothing but old toilets.
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Oct 8, 2008 03:38
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drchipotle posted:Is there an easy/smart way to fabricate a custom spring? Like an inch long and 1/4 inch around? https://www.mcmaster.com Ships next day. Unless you have some kind of super-rare magical spring tempered in the fires of Hell and then quenched in unicorn blood they will have it.
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Oct 8, 2008 04:37
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Not an Anthem posted:
Why do you want to fill the gap between the flange and the floor? You really don't need to unless the closet flange is wiggling.
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Oct 8, 2008 23:34
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kapalama posted:When California went through the big 'new toilets must be low flow' boom way back when, there were landfills of nothing but old toilets. There was probably an early adopters holocaust of new low flow toilets because the first "round" of those that made it to production were poo poo. My dad got one..
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Oct 9, 2008 15:56
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Our tub spout just fell out of the wall: I consulted some friends who know just enough about plumbing to tell me I'm screwed here. I'm hearing that the wall will have to be cut out to get to the pipes back there to reattach/replace this thing. But what's on the other side of the wall? Another shower, in our second bathroom. How much is that going to complicate things, or will it even matter? Mainly, I'm wondering what the process is going to be like, and how much to expect it to cost. Should we try it ourselves, or get professional help? I have googled around a little trying to find a starting place, but I'm so clueless about plumbing that I don't even know the right questions to ask. Everything I've found is about replacing a malfunctioning tub spout by unscrewing it from the threaded pipe. There is nothing about what to do when the entire threaded pipe falls out of the wall with the spout still attached to it.
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Oct 10, 2008 18:00
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Not much you can do. That's soldered copper tubing so you have to tear open the wall to re-solder the line. Go get a sledge hammer and bust a hole in the wall. If you don't care about looks, just sawzall a hole in the wall, re-solder the copper tubing, then glue on a patch of shower walling (like from a bath wall kit). It will be water proof but look ugly.
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Oct 10, 2008 21:17
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Contact paper - where do I buy it? Home Depot, Wal-Mart, craft stores? And in what sections of the store should I be looking?
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Oct 10, 2008 21:18
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Cutty posted:Contact paper - where do I buy it? Home Depot, Wal-Mart, craft stores? And in what sections of the store should I be looking? I'm almost positive places like Michaels or AC Moore would sell it, but as to where I have no idea. Just ask the information desk. Wal*Mart/Target might have it in their supply section. I recall them having some for covering books, but that was years ago.
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Oct 11, 2008 06:13
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Cutty posted:Contact paper - where do I buy it? Home Depot, Wal-Mart, craft stores? And in what sections of the store should I be looking? Wal*Mart has it in the kitchen area of the store with the shelf liner. In my store, it's on the very bottom shelf.
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Oct 12, 2008 06:22
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Bondage posted:Not much you can do. That's soldered copper tubing so you have to tear open the wall to re-solder the line. Go get a sledge hammer and bust a hole in the wall. gently caress that noise, now's the time to install a tub surround. You're probably going to wind up having to buy a whole loving kit anyway, they start at less than $100, just install a nice tub surround in. They're really easy to install. Now might be a good time to look into cutting some type of access panel into the wall, too. Check those copper pipes, that poo poo doesn't tend to come unsoldered (unless your water heater's putting out 700°F)...you may have to replace lot of pipe. If you can bend the pipe with your bare hands easily, and there's lots of verdigris, you're going to have to replace it. I recommend switching to CPVC, just because it's easier to work with and you're less likely to burn your house down replacing a joint.
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Oct 13, 2008 03:59
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The garbage disposal in my sink just stopped working. It hums so I know there is some current going through it, but the blades inside do not turn. The blades are not stuck or jammed in any way. I can manually turn them. I've also tried hitting the reset button on the bottom of the disposal without any success. Any suggestions before I junk it and buy a new one?
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Oct 13, 2008 16:55
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atrowe posted:The garbage disposal in my sink just stopped working. It hums so I know there is some current going through it, but the blades inside do not turn. Sounds like something in between the motor and blades broke, like a gear. I'm not familiar with how hard it is to take apart and reassemble a garbage disposal, but depending on the complexity you may be able to take the unit apart and replace whatever interfaces between them.
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Oct 13, 2008 17:53
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I'm building a sun dial but can't seem to find the supplies I want. I'd like to build it out of .5" thick cherry wood, but places like Home Depot and OSH only seem to sell lovely plywood and such. Where should I go to get the good stuff?
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Oct 14, 2008 03:39
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Back_From_Termina posted:I'm building a sun dial but can't seem to find the supplies I want. I'd like to build it out of .5" thick cherry wood, but places like Home Depot and OSH only seem to sell lovely plywood and such. Where should I go to get the good stuff? Try woodfinder. They've got an embarrassment of sources, listed by state/province, city, and wood. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Oct 14, 2008 |
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Oct 14, 2008 05:31
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Try http://www.woodfinder.com. They've got an embarrassment of sources, listed by state/province, city, and wood. Thanks. That site rules, I found a place within 3 miles of my house.
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Oct 14, 2008 05:37
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I'd like to paint my kitchen cabinets is a high-gloss red, like some of the modern european kitchens sometimes advertised. The cabinets now are a faux wood grain, and probably some kind of particleboard underneath. What do I need to do to prep them, and what's the best product and method to finish them to get that really rich thick glossy look?
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Oct 14, 2008 06:08
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mr.belowaverage posted:I'd like to paint my kitchen cabinets is a high-gloss red, like some of the modern european kitchens sometimes advertised. Depends how much effort you want to put in, and how good you want the finish to be. For the best finish, sand them down till the fake woodgrain isn't shiny, then use a good quality oil based primer (I always recommend Zinnser), before painting it with two coats of gloss enamel paint. If you want to do it faster, use a product like ESP (Easy Surface Prep) which is a wipe on, wipe off, surface primer. It will make your paint stick to any gloss surface other than plastic (including glass), but won't have the durability of sanding it and priming it. If you are in Australia I can recommend brands for paint, if you are in the US, the only brand I know that I will recommend is the Zinnser primer. You will need two coats of topcoat to get a good finish, and for reds it is important to use a tinted primer, otherwise the topcoat will lack punch and look washed out - which is another reason to do the job properly and not the quick way. Edit: Also, spend the money and buy a good brush. Cheap ones will lose bristles and give you a crappy finish in general. And as I always say in these threads, preparation is the key. Good prep work will save a poor job, poor prep work will doom even the best topcoat. Clean it, sand it, prime it. Cleaning is especially important for kitchen stuff, because they will accumulate grease or cleaning product residue or the general day to day detritus associated with kitchens, so give it a wash down with sugar soap (TSP in the US) first. Haikeeba! fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 17, 2008 |
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Oct 17, 2008 03:25
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