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Slung Blade posted:Day 3, course complete: Wow that looks amazing. Does anyone have experience bending tubing? I am going to be bending a brass trumpet bell and I have four options that I know of. 1. lead 2. Pitch 3. Soapy water 4. A gun casting low temp metal called cerrosafe http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=384&st=cerro&s Anyone have any tips? I annealed the bell already and buffed it up all pretty, and I know that I have to do it slowly so I don't wrinkle it. As I bend it I will be hammering down any wrinkles that appear. The bend I want to do isn't very drastic, but I don't want to mess it up.
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Oct 20, 2008 21:21
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Brekelefuw posted:Wow that looks amazing. Thanks man, it's not done yet, but I'm pretty proud of it. As for the bend, can you take off the bell so you have a short section to work with? I know a lot of people pack tubing and pipes with sand, heat the metal enough to make it flexible, and then bend it. Theory being that the sand will ensure that the internal volume does not change as you bend the tube. I've seen tubing benders made from long, thin coil springs, but that was for very small diameter copper tubing. Maybe a wooden ball on a stick? Make the ball just slightly smaller than the diameter of the tube where you want to bend it, that might help keep it from kinking. Good luck!
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Oct 20, 2008 22:29
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Brekelefuw posted:3. Soapy water I saw this on that show "Hot it's Made" on Discovery channel. They fill the thing full of soapy water and freeze it. The soap lets the ice bend, or something along those lines. They were not very gentle about it or anything, just froze it, bent it, done. No special tamping or anything along those lines. Pretty interesting I thought. So my 6G TIG pipe is starting to look pretty good. I started on Chrome today and it's not too much different than carbon steel. It's really really hard however, I was trying to file the edge of my cap and it took so much just to scratch it a little. It was kind of a neat experience working on something a little harder than carbon since that's almost entirely what my experience is on. The TIG course starts on November 3rd, but I think I'll have taught myself how to TIG pipe by that point if I keep going every day. It's already looking like they will pass a bend, I just need to make it so it will pass a visual inspection now.
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Oct 20, 2008 22:50
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SmokeyXIII posted:
Are you doing this stuff in Fort Mac? or in Edmonton.
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Oct 21, 2008 05:00
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Brekelefuw posted:Are you doing this stuff in Fort Mac? or in Edmonton. In Edmonton, at 488's welding shop. However I've been working in Fort Mac about half the time lately.
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Oct 21, 2008 06:12
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I started pipe welding today!!! Did a 1G which came out OK for my first time, and started on a 5G after that. The root pass on my 5G came out pretty good except for the overhead quadrant, which didn't have quite enough penetration. I can see where this will take me a little bit of practice. I'm currently working with 4" schedule 80 steel pipe, using 3/32" 6010 electrodes. I got a funny story about one of my fellow students. The wooden handle on his chipping hammer came a little loose, so he decided the best way to fix this was to try to weld the metal wedge in the wooden portion over the wood, to the metal hammerhead. I was talking to the teacher and this guy walks up with a burnt handle in one hand, and a hammer head with globs of weld metal on it in the other hand and says "You gave me a bullshit hammer!". The teacher, who had a facial expression of disbelief, said "What the gently caress did you do?" I seriously could not look at that dude for the rest of the day without busting into laughter. SmokeyXIII posted:I saw this on that show "Hot it's Made" on Discovery channel. They fill the thing full of soapy water and freeze it. The soap lets the ice bend, or something along those lines. They were not very gentle about it or anything, just froze it, bent it, done. No special tamping or anything along those lines.
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Oct 21, 2008 20:59
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dv6speed posted:This sounds really loving awesome, I'll have to try that just for fun. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yl8qfu-ojTQ 3:18 shows the soap part. You should post some pictures of your pipe work, I'm really interested in seeing how you're doing. I find it totally amazing how fast you've learned what you have considering how our apprenticeship system works here.
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Oct 21, 2008 21:46
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SmokeyXIII posted:You should post some pictures of your pipe work, I'm really interested in seeing how you're doing. SmokeyXIII posted:I find it totally amazing how fast you've learned what you have considering how our apprenticeship system works here. This isn't an apprentice program I'm in now, it's just adult vocational training. If I get hired by the shipyard I'll be in their apprenticeship program. Or, if I get a regular non-union welding job, I can enroll in my state's department of labor welding apprentice program where you work during the day and go to school a few nights a week. The shipyard apprentice program involves both labor and classroom education, and is recognized by the state department of labor as an approved apprentice program. If I don't get hired at the shipyard, I will be applying for the local plumbers/pipe fitters union as an apprentice pipe welder. They only do recruiting once a year, sometime in the spring or summer, and I hear it's hard to get into that. That being said, it's hard to get in the shipyard apprentice program too. It's sort of a quandary, because I would like to be in the pipe fitter union as a pipe welder. However, there's no guarantee of getting in either program, so if the shipyard does take me, then I should accept. However, I'd hate to get into that program, then leave a few months later to go into the pipe fitter union. Then of course there is the consideration that ships have many miles of piping on them, in addition to structural steel welding, so I could end up welding pipe there anyway. We'll see what happens.
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Oct 21, 2008 23:23
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SmokeyXIII posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yl8qfu-ojTQ That is a cool video. I love that show in general. It's interesting to hear the pronunciation of 'solder'. (I think the show is from Quebec, produced with Canadian film money).
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Oct 22, 2008 00:34
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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So ever since I started sharing the fun I've been having with my friends and co-workers, requests and projects have been coming in faster than I can handle. Things waiting to get done: Plant hanger for a friend. Top and bottom fuller for me. Heavy bottom fuller for me out of an 11 dollar trailer hitch (pictures to follow) Candle snuffer for a friend. Finish the table I posted earlier. 12 downspout supports for my parents. 3 RR spike knives for friends. Courting candle for a friend. Flower vase for a friend. Frame to put a big rear end cast-iron mailbox on the deck for my mother. Candelabra for my mother. Man I knew people would want things made but holy poo poo 
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Oct 24, 2008 21:04
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Slung Blade posted:So ever since I started sharing the fun I've been having with my friends and co-workers, requests and projects have been coming in faster than I can handle. It's not surprising to me at all. I am in AWE of what you guys can do. Every picture posted in this thread makes me envious of the skills you have, and also makes me want to get something made. Welding and blacksmithing/metalworking are absolutely god-like.
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Oct 25, 2008 03:51
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kapalama posted:It's not surprising to me at all. I am in AWE of what you guys can do. Every picture posted in this thread makes me envious of the skills you have, and also makes me want to get something made. If you find this that interesting you should consider going to votech school for machining or black smithing. I personally believe you can teach yourself welding from a book and buying a welder but school would probably be faster for that too. Vo tec schools usually aren't particularly expensive compared to a university or community college. I got a scholarship for mine but tuition was 2500 per year. Going one semester would obviously be half and if you only went in the afternoon or morning class it'd be even less.
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Oct 25, 2008 04:19
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kapalama posted:It's not surprising to me at all. I am in AWE of what you guys can do. Every picture posted in this thread makes me envious of the skills you have, and also makes me want to get something made. Did anyone offer to make that stainless rod/hoop for you? I suppose I could do it, but I'd have to find some stainless first.
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Oct 25, 2008 06:56
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I starting working on 5G pipe. It's looking good considering I've only been welding pipe for a few days. I still have some more work to do, of course, especially on the overhead quadrant. I started using a new technique for running the keyhole on the root pass that is working out much better for me. What I was doing before, with the plate, and when I started the pipe was to whip the electrode right in the open groove. If the keyhole was too small I'd pause longer, if it was too big I'd whip farther. What I'm doing now is instead of whipping in the groove, I'm whipping on either side of the groove, kind of forming a U shape. I find controlling the heat and the keyhole size is easier that way. RealKyleH posted:I personally believe you can teach yourself welding from a book and buying a welder but school would probably be faster for that too. Either way, the only way to get good at welding is to spend countless hours welding on lots of scrap steel, and burning a few hundred lbs of consumables. I'm lucky in that the school I go to, has 2 really good instructors, and 1 other very experienced guy who does the paperwork, but still comes into the shop and is available to ask questions to. So if I'm having trouble with something, there are 3 guys I can ask for help. Each guy has a slightly different way of doing things, so I can find out which technique(s) works best for me. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Oct 25, 2008 |
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Oct 25, 2008 13:19
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Got the candle snuffer done.
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Oct 26, 2008 06:28
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Not bad. Was the welding done with arc, gas, or forge welding?
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Oct 26, 2008 14:37
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dv6speed posted:Not bad. Was the welding done with arc, gas, or forge welding? There was no welding, it was riveted within the snuffer's bell.
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Oct 26, 2008 18:07
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Moving from a garage welding shop that the art piece was made in with barely above freezing temperatures to a warm and library quiet office building is quite a change. Halloween is a big event at my work, and I plan on going in my full leathers + mask as a costume. I'm too cheap to go as something like a pirate or something, but its definitely going to surprise some of my coworkers. I wish I was still in the shop rather working at my current job sometimes 
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Oct 28, 2008 15:47
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I do a little woodworking and am kicking around the idea of making my own branding iron. I've done some casting in the past, but don't really have the facilities to do anything heavy duty. Is it possible to bend some steel with just a bernzo torch and some pliers? Is this heresy to speak of such things in the metalworking thread, or is there an easy way that I could do a little metalworking on a budget?
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Oct 28, 2008 17:24
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I do a little woodworking and am kicking around the idea of making my own branding iron. I've done some casting in the past, but don't really have the facilities to do anything heavy duty. Is it possible to bend some steel with just a bernzo torch and some pliers? Is this heresy to speak of such things in the metalworking thread, or is there an easy way that I could do a little metalworking on a budget? If the metal you're working isn't very thick (which, if you're making a branding iron, it probably won't be) yeah, absolutely. Heat 'er up and go to town with the pliers. Just make sure it's not black when you bend it, it may crack. If the pliers have really deep teeth, you'll mark the poo poo out of the sides of the iron, so be prepared to file / sand off the surface when you're done. Try to get a little bit of plate iron and a small hammer so you can flatten it when you're done bending the pattern into it.
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Oct 28, 2008 17:33
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Can you get it hot enough with a torch to bend it? I assume a Bernzo torch is a propane torch?
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Oct 28, 2008 19:00
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kapalama posted:Can you get it hot enough with a torch to bend it? I assume a Bernzo torch is a propane torch? If you use plain steel thats going to be hot enough to get it red hot for sure. At least for whatever thickness you plan on bending with pliers.
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Oct 28, 2008 19:08
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SmokeyXIII posted:If you use plain steel thats going to be hot enough to get it red hot for sure. At least for whatever thickness you plan on bending with pliers. I should really get a vise and mount it to my workbench, though, right?
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Oct 28, 2008 20:29
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I should really get a vise and mount it to my workbench, though, right? It really depends on how complex a piece you're making, and the size.
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Oct 28, 2008 20:49
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I do a little woodworking and am kicking around the idea of making my own branding iron. iwannabebobdylan posted:Is it possible to bend some steel with just a bernzo torch and some pliers? Is this heresy to speak of such things in the metalworking thread, or is there an easy way that I could do a little metalworking on a budget? When you say doing metalworking on a budget, are you referring to the branding iron project, or do you have something else on your mind? iwannabebobdylan posted:I should really get a vise and mount it to my workbench, though, right?
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Oct 28, 2008 21:35
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Papercraft meets metalcraft. bacteriophage:    I actually made this from a papercraft template I found in the papercraft thread.
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Oct 29, 2008 02:06
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Oh man, that is awesome jovial.
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Oct 29, 2008 07:26
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Welding class day 2, first day we actually burn rods. 4 passes, 3/32 7014  I saved the best root pass so I could take a picture of it. The first ones I did weren't so good, they were just 2 lines on either side of the gap  2 passes, 1/8 7024  I didn't do the two middle ones, they were on the coupon when I pulled it out of the bin. So my major problems right now are: moving too far in the weaves, the crescents are way too big, I'm fighting the arc gap in places, moving away in the middle, and sometimes I don't wait long enough at the edges of the puddle. Anything else you guys can spot?
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Oct 30, 2008 06:16
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Slung Blade posted:Anything else you guys can spot? Are you being told to weave your horizontal fillets? I don't want to oppose what the instructor is telling you but, you basically never want to do a weave in a horizontal fillet. You just do stringers are just keep stacking the layers up on top of each other. (Like the middle 2 in your 2nd picture) Like this.  So if you need more than 3 passes you just keep building up the stringers on top of each other. So pass 4 would go to the right of pass 2, and then pass 5 would go on top of pass 4, and pass 6 would go on top of pass 5. Also turn your heat up... a lot. Edit: Are you left handed? If not you might be welding the wrong direction. SmokeyXIII fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Oct 30, 2008 |
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Oct 30, 2008 06:35
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He wanted us to weave the covering passes, so I just did what I was told. No, I'm right handed, but I was welding towards myself, pulling my arm closer to my torso, I'll change that on monday, moving the stinger parallel to my chest to the right. Why change the heat? Thanks for the tips Smokey 
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Oct 30, 2008 07:12
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Slung Blade posted:He wanted us to weave the covering passes, so I just did what I was told. Are you welding flat? If you're going flat then you weave, sorry I just assumed they were horizontal fillets since most people don't bother teaching flat because its so simple. You turn up the heat because it will make the puddle more fluid and easier to control, the colder it is the globbier it is. Now of course you can go too hot too, but as it stands you're looking WAY too cold. 7024 and 7014 are very heavy in iron content so you need a lot of extra heat to burn those rods. For a 1/8th rod you might need 150 amps, maybe even higher. A 3/32 would require maybe... 120 amps? It depends on your machine. As for your manipulation, you probably need to take smaller steps forwards. It looks like you're the pattern on the left, where you should be the pattern on the right.  You'll have a much bigger puddle if you switch to this pattern and a higher heat and you just smoothly move the edge of the puddle from side to side.
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Oct 30, 2008 07:27
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I agree with SmokeyXIII, you need a tighter weave, and alot more heat. Your travel speed might be a little too fast as well. Don't forget to pause on the edges of the weave, that will avoid undercut and flatten the bead surface out. It's always best to be on the hotter side of just right then the colder side. Not only is it actually easier to control a really liquid puddle, it also will get you better fusion. As far as weaves go, I was taught the only time you do them is on vertical, or pipe. Oh and half the battle is that arc length. Work hard on keeping the proper gap, and keeping it consistent. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 10:37 on Oct 30, 2008 |
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Oct 30, 2008 10:33
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Yeah, these were flat (it's just a beginner course). I was using 90 and around 145 amps, just as I was instructed. But ok, I'll try a little more in the future. Thanks guys.
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Oct 30, 2008 16:09
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dv6speed posted:As far as weaves go, I was taught the only time you do them is on vertical, or pipe. Flat you can weave too, you just have to be a little more careful to keep it clean. With 7014/7018/7024 my arc length would be basically touching the rod to the steel. At least when welding flat, and when going vertical it would be very very close to touching the steel. How goes the pipe? Are you doing 5G's? Slung Blade posted:Yeah, these were flat (it's just a beginner course). What positions and procedures are you being taught in the course? Any cutting? You have to see how the puddle looks and determine your heat from there, all machines are different (some are REALLY different) so you can't just go off the number on the dial. However it is a good starting point. I was using one portable machine on my last job and I was welding 1/8th on 9 or 10 setting. But when I moved to another machine I had to change gears and go up to effectively 12 or 13. It's all in how old the machine is, how worn it is, what condition the windings are. The inverter types are pretty sweet though, I don't know what they're like when they get old but I'd imagine they're a little better than the traditional welders.
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Oct 30, 2008 16:57
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Flat, horizontal, vertical and maybe overhead if we get really ambitious. Fillet, groove, and butt joints. Again if we get really ambitious he said he would let us try a pipe weld. We're using those ungodly expensive miller multiprocess machines in SAIT's 3rd year apprentice labs. I didn't write the model number down but I can get it next time I'm there if you like.
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Oct 30, 2008 17:52
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Slung Blade posted:Flat, horizontal, vertical and maybe overhead if we get really ambitious. They're probably really not that bad. I'd assume they're the same as NAIT uses, which are the inverter millers. They're about $4000 a machine. BOO CALGARY! SmokeyXIII fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Oct 30, 2008 |
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Oct 30, 2008 18:37
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I didn't mean they were bad (they seem quite nice, actually) I just meant really, really expensive. And you're just boo-ing because you're jealous and you wish you had chinooks up north like we get here. It sure is nice walking around in shorts in the middle of february 
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Oct 30, 2008 20:11
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SmokeyXIII posted:How goes the pipe? Are you doing 5G's? We ran out of 4" schedule 80 pipe, and I'm working with 4" schedule 40 now. The schedule 40 is a pain in the rear end because it heats up too drat fast, and I spend half my time waiting for the pipe to cool down to an acceptable level before I start welding again.
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Oct 30, 2008 20:39
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Slung Blade posted:I didn't mean they were bad (they seem quite nice, actually) I just meant really, really expensive. haha no I meant the price wasn't bad. I guess we're looking at the machine from a different perspective. I think how much money that could make me. Yeah Calgary is pretty nice all in all, I like how you can see the mountains from there. I've thought about moving there but it would be just as expensive as Edmonton. I think I'm gonna move to rural BC so I can get living out allowance on all the jobs I go to which ranges from $100-$200 a day.
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Oct 30, 2008 22:10
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dv6speed posted:Yeah been working on 5G since Friday. It's coming pretty well, still trying to find the fine line between too little and too much penetration, and then doing it on a consistent basis. Turning the heat on the machine down works too. It's good when you have a helper there and you can just shout at him to turn it up or down on the remote.
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Oct 30, 2008 22:13
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