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I'm from Canada, and familiar with both Zinnser and TSP products. When it comes to the actual colour coats, is there anything extra I need to know to get that thick plastic look? Or just use several coats?
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Oct 18, 2008 23:59
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Two coats of high gloss enamel paint should give you a very hard, shiny surface. Make sure you use a tinted undercoat though, or it will look washed out. I'm not sure entirely what you mean by "plastic" look though. The hardest wearing, and shiniest paint would be two-pack polyurethane marine paint, or a marine enamel. But both of these products would require special undercoats, and you would have a much more limited range of colours. Also, they would be horribly expensive overkill.
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Oct 20, 2008 00:59
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The plastic look on modern euro style cabinets is--plastic. They aren't made of wood to begin with.
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Oct 21, 2008 17:24
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mcsuede posted:The plastic look on modern euro style cabinets is--plastic. They aren't made of wood to begin with. Not all - We fitted gloss red doors when we redid the kitchen last year, the doors are wood with a bunch of coats of high gloss paint. I looked at the plastic doors and they looked like they'd warp, plus, a lot of the ones we saw had flash on the edges 
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Oct 21, 2008 18:03
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Cakefool posted:I looked at the plastic doors and they looked like they'd warp, plus, a lot of the ones we saw had flash on the edges
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Oct 22, 2008 19:33
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Anyone have experience using Plasti-Aid?
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Oct 23, 2008 20:26
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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Dongsmith posted:Sounds like quality manufacturing. Where were you looking at these cabinets? MFI had paper skinned doors with warped plastic shell/skins, an independent kitchen supplier had doors that looked like vacuum molded shells. Fucker stepped in front of my wife when we turned around to leave - said we had to make an appointment to have our kitchen surveyed before we left. I was just wondering how to deal with this when my wife, without hesitation just screams "RAPE!!!in his face. I nearly pissed myself laughing.
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Oct 23, 2008 22:07
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I scanned the last couple of pages and didn't see this mentioned, so sorry if I'm repeating something. I need to attach a large pane of glass to a wall. The pane is roughly 4.5 by 3 feet, and weighs 30-40 pounds. The wall itself is stuccoed. Any ideas how I can do this easily, and if possible make it detachable in the future? I don't have a lot of tools at my disposal, so I can't build something elaborate to hold it up either.
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Oct 24, 2008 15:46
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Wondering what the best way to fasten this framed print to the wall. I tried using some heavy duty adhesives but the paint on the wall is very slick and doesn't play well with adhesives. There is nothing on the back of the frame/print except for some old fasteners that have been ripped off. Here's a couple of pictures to give you an idea of size and thickness (it's about 1/4 of an inch).  Click here for the full 640x480 image.  Click here for the full 640x480 image.
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Oct 25, 2008 23:12
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tokz posted:Wondering what the best way to fasten this framed print to the wall. I tried using some heavy duty adhesives but the paint on the wall is very slick and doesn't play well with adhesives. There is nothing on the back of the frame/print except for some old fasteners that have been ripped off. You look really pissed off that you have to deal with that frame. I would suggest either checking out those 3M removable adhesive strips, or installing new hardware into the frame. If you know what the old hardware looked like it shouldn't be hard to replicate that.
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Oct 26, 2008 20:02
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The bulb part of my light bulb just fell off after making an abortion joke  and now my light socket has the base (the part that screws in) and the filament stuck in there how would I go about removing it?
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Oct 27, 2008 03:14
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wigtrade.cc posted:The bulb part of my light bulb just fell off after making an abortion joke Turn the light off. Cut a potato in half, and jam it over the filamenty bits. Unscrew per normal.
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Oct 27, 2008 05:20
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Turn the light off. That is awesome!
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Oct 27, 2008 06:50
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Some relatives want to give me this... plant. It's about 1.5 to 2 meters high and they say the current pot is too small for it. First question - how do I know what size pot I need for a plant? As far as I can tell, this opinion of the pot being too small is based on something akin to mouse droppings and astrology... I found a relatively big clay pot that doesn't look like horrible poo poo but even though it does not have a hole in the bottom, the papers it comes with say you have to use a platter below it to catch excess water. I assume because the pot is porous and the water will still come through? Well, the problem is that this pot is a) big and b) rectangular. No shop in or near this city sells anything that might fit under it. Yes, it's a small city... Do I really need something under it? Will water really seep through this solid clay pot? If I do, is there anything I could retrofit to go under the pot? I haven't been able to think of anything suitable...
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Oct 27, 2008 10:51
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edit : nm asking an electrician friend to come over.
ease fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Oct 27, 2008 |
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Oct 27, 2008 22:21
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kapalama posted:That is awesome! My dad tried this when I was at work and didn't turn off the fuse/switch and shorted out the upstairs so now we need an electrician so make sure all power is off when you try that
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Oct 28, 2008 06:03
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wigtrade.cc posted:My dad tried this when I was at work and didn't turn off the fuse/switch and shorted out the upstairs so now we need an electrician so make sure all power is off when you try that That is even more awesome!
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Oct 28, 2008 09:00
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wigtrade.cc posted:My dad tried this when I was at work and didn't turn off the fuse/switch and shorted out the upstairs so now we need an electrician so make sure all power is off when you try that Why the hell would you need an electrician to flip a breaker or replace a fuse?
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Oct 28, 2008 15:49
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I've got a wall of 4 windows about 18ft wide altogether in my condo. The 4 windows all connect to each other and the last of the four is able to be opened. Problem is in the winter there is a bunch of condensation on the inside of the window that drips down during the day and is beginning to/has already chipped away paint and generally looks like poo poo. Eventually I'd like to tile this window sill but I'd like to solve this problem before doing so. Nearly everyone in the building has the same problem with no real solution. Thoughts?
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Oct 28, 2008 21:19
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Sand it down, and use a better paint, maybe an exterior paint?
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Oct 28, 2008 23:42
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Sapper posted:Why the hell would you need an electrician to flip a breaker or replace a fuse? poo poo shorted out faulty wiring found cluster gently caress of industrial shortcuts found by that potato
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Oct 30, 2008 07:16
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wigtrade.cc posted:poo poo shorted out faulty wiring found cluster gently caress of industrial shortcuts found by that potato drat! Well, I guess in hindsight, it was a good thing...at least you found out via spud as opposed to 3am smoke detector. Jesus Christ, you might wanna just pull new wire.
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Oct 30, 2008 15:21
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I recently got an old camera from the 60's in mint condition, except the bag. Aside from some pulled seams the leather is showing its age. It isn't beyond repair, and there's no cracks but I'd like to bring some life back to it because it's certainly dry. I looked around online and there's conflicting answers to what you should use. Aside from typical household products and polish, I have a few leather care items: saddle dressing (mostly tallow) and mink oil. Any suggestions/experience in revitalizing old leather?
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Nov 4, 2008 02:59
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My crappy apartament gas stove is missing vital components! Whatever tube takes the gas from the stove innards and funnels it out into a little ring of small blue flames is gone, and there is just a hole that needs to be lit manually and then is just a single large jet flame. My landlord insists that the piece that is supposed to be there is easy to find and attach; as for me I am less than convinced. I've googled around for "spreader plate" which is what he said they were called, and have found nothing. Can this piece be replaced? easily? what is it called?
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Nov 4, 2008 03:53
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Micomicona posted:My crappy apartament gas stove is missing vital components! Whatever tube takes the gas from the stove innards and funnels it out into a little ring of small blue flames is gone, and there is just a hole that needs to be lit manually and then is just a single large jet flame. My landlord insists that the piece that is supposed to be there is easy to find and attach; as for me I am less than convinced. I've googled around for "spreader plate" which is what he said they were called, and have found nothing. The "burner head" is the part from which the flame comes out; you may also be lacking a base plate, which closes off the space around the burner. Just judging from the google results for "burner head replacement", it looks like it can be replaced  I've got no idea about the difficulty, though.
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Nov 4, 2008 09:58
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While we're talking about gas stoves, I also have a problem that my crappy landlord won't fix! My oven is gas, and I'm terrified of it. The knob for the oven portion doesn't have any kind of dial on it; it's just a metal nub that could theoretically be turned. I have never used a gas oven before, so I don't know how to start one or anything, so I am terrified of blowing up my house while trying to figure out what temperatures are where. Is there a rule of thumb for how gas ovens work? Failing that, does anyone know of a place I can find a dial for an old frigidare oven?
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Nov 4, 2008 17:51
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Go ahead and turn the knob for the oven... on my oven at home, 270 degrees is the most it can turn. You should hear a muffled 'thrump' as the gas is ignited. That's going to be underneath the oven, but above the broiler (the lower 'drawer' thing). Open the door to the broiler. If you can see the glow of flame reflected on the broiler's floor, then everything is fine. But if the gas is flowing (you'll almost certainly be able to hear a hiss) and there's no flame, then it's possible the igniter isn't working, or that the oven is manual ignition. If there's no flame, I'd inform the landlord and ask him how he wants to resolve the problem.
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Nov 4, 2008 17:59
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Furypants posted:The "burner head" is the part from which the flame comes out; you may also be lacking a base plate, which closes off the space around the burner. Awesome! that looks like it alright. Now lets just hope that my landlord can get it together enough to buy four and attach them without killing us all.
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Nov 4, 2008 21:02
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Micomicona posted:Awesome! that looks like it alright. Now lets just hope that my landlord can get it together enough to buy four and attach them without killing us all. In the UK it would be illegal for your landlord to fit this, unless he was Corgi gas fitter registered. Check in your locale and ensure this is done by a skilled person. Dying of carbon monoxide poisoning is quite possible and doesn't sound fun.
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Nov 5, 2008 22:35
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Cakefool posted:In the UK it would be illegal for your landlord to fit this, unless he was Corgi gas fitter registered. Check in your locale and ensure this is done by a skilled person. Dying of carbon monoxide poisoning is quite possible and doesn't sound fun. Good to know. I am pretty sure it is legal (though inadvisable) to do so here in the U S of A, but I should double check. At the very least, I was planning on having the gas company come and inspect it again after the work is done and before I start using the stove again.
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Nov 6, 2008 02:52
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I have a tiny lightbulb (think christmas light size) which I want to keep forever lit. I tried a 9V battery hooked up via a small copper wire. The 9V dies in less than 24 hours. I figured that since it was such a small lightbulb it would not drain the 9V so quickly, so I'm guessing I need to go with a wired DC plug into the wall for this small project. While I could do this, it seems silly. What do you suggest? If I have to go the DC route, can I just find a lower wattage DC adapter plug and hook it up to the lightbulb or am I playing with fire here? Any other suggestions not DC? Thanks in advance. I'm obviously not an electrician or even that handy. This is for a small art project.
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Nov 10, 2008 02:02
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mister_gosh posted:I have a tiny lightbulb (think christmas light size) which I want to keep forever lit. I tried a 9V battery hooked up via a small copper wire. I'd say a solar cell with a recharging system, maybe a super-cap from one of those new instant recharging cordless drills, or a NI-CD battery. If you really want it to last longer on a battery, I'd say use an LED.
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Nov 10, 2008 03:56
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I live in an apartment with absolutely god awful looking kitchen counters, both marred and some pattern from a hospital somewhere. Can anyone think of something I could lay down that could be removed later? Considerations: - Don't want it slipping around - Don't want it to rot if it gets wet
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Nov 10, 2008 11:18
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If you hook up a resistor in series with the light bulb, the current flowing through the circuit will be less. This means that less power will be used, the light bulb will not glow as brightly, and it will last (possibly much) longer. However, you should do what Fire Storm said and use an LED if possible. If you have an electronics parts store around, go there and ask them and they can probably explain it more clearly, if not, look at the schematic here. Keep in mind that most LED's will have one wire coming out that is longer than the other. This is the positive side. edit: connecting a DC adapter would not be harmful. Again, make sure you use a resistor. I think 2.2 kiloohms is a good value to start with. Don't connect the LED backwards or you may burn it out.
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Nov 10, 2008 13:35
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I'm pretty new to electronics so possibly a dumb question: If I hooked the +/- leads to a motor to a lightbulb and spun the motor, would it work like a turbine. If not, where would I find such a turbine?
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Nov 10, 2008 20:10
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FamousThomas posted:I'm pretty new to electronics so possibly a dumb question: What kind of motor? It will work if it is a DC motor. Dynamos that used to be fitted to bicycles worked on that principle. The problem is that a DC motor isn't properly designed to generate power, in the same way that a sedan isn't properly designed to race F1 cars.
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Nov 11, 2008 09:20
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FYAD KNIGHT posted:What kind of motor? It will work if it is a DC motor. Dynamos that used to be fitted to bicycles worked on that principle. The problem is that a DC motor isn't properly designed to generate power, in the same way that a sedan isn't properly designed to race F1 cars. Yeah, a simple bicycle dynamo would probably work best for whatever you want to do - shouldn't cost more than $5.
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Nov 11, 2008 09:22
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Ah, I never thought to use bike lights, that's perfect! Thanks, pals.
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Nov 11, 2008 14:46
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My bathroom has a ceiling light and ceiling vent/fan. Currently the light switch (single switch) turns on/off the ceiling light but not the vent/fan. I removed the lightswitch plate and there are 4 wires: red, white, black and copper. The black and white are connected to the switch, and the copper is hooked up on the side (assuming that is to ground it). The red wire is loose with electrical tape over the end. Am I right to assume that this red wire is for the fan? Should there be only one wire for the fan? Can I go out and buy a new switch with two switches on it and hook the light up to one of the switches and the fan up to the other?
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Nov 12, 2008 01:19
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BrokenDynasty posted:My bathroom has a ceiling light and ceiling vent/fan. Currently the light switch (single switch) turns on/off the ceiling light but not the vent/fan. I removed the lightswitch plate and there are 4 wires: red, white, black and copper. The black and white are connected to the switch, and the copper is hooked up on the side (assuming that is to ground it). The red wire is loose with electrical tape over the end. Probably, yes. Before you do so, open up the light/fan box and make sure the red wire is hooked up at the other end, too. If they're following code (not likely) then the white wire coming into the switch should be the hot wire, and the black and red should be switched. Of course, the white should be "permanently marked" not white (i.e. wrapped in black tape or something). Use your handy meter to see where power is coming from, make a pigtail on that wire to your two switches, then send the switched power back to your light/fan. Inside the junction box for the light/fan, there should be a black/white/bare cable and a black/white/red/bare cable. The black/white/bare should be coming from your breaker box; black is hot, white is neutral, bare is ground. The black from the breaker should be joined to the white in the black/white/red, and that white should be taped or marked. The white from the black/white/bare should be made up to the white in the fan/light. The black in the black/white/red should be on the light, and the red should be on the fan. All the bare wires should be connected to any obvious green wires and each other, as well. It goes without saying that you should have the breaker off to do the wiring, but you're going to need it on at some point to check where power is; be careful. If any of this seems too complicated, hire an electrician.
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Nov 12, 2008 13:20
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