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Hey! Heres a stupid question that really doesn't deserve its own thread: I drive a '03 Nissan Altima. I started my car up a few days ago and noticed a big "Service Engine Soon" light on my gauge. I couldn't have not noticed it for more than a day, but driving it around it felt completely normal. I got my emissions checked the week before and I passed on the first time, and after driving around a little more couldn't find any noises, smells, or odd feelings. I went to an Autozone to pull codes (Dealership wanted to charge me $104 for a "Diagnostics Examination"), and they found I had code P0420. P0420 = Catalytic Converter issues. Apparently bank 1 is running below acceptable conditions. So I've got some sort of catalytic converter issue, after doing some research they mentioned that an engine misfire could cause it. If my engine had misfired, what would it have felt like? I remember my car being a little abrupt getting going one morning, but never thought anything of it (more specifically I put my foot on the gas and it seemed to lurch a little). I don't know if that was anything, or if I'm just over thinking it now. Now, what is my next best option? Is a catalytic converter something I can replace myself? If it was an engine misfire can I just clear the codes and be done with it? Should I take it to the dealer and just tell them whats going on? tldr: 1) '03 nissan altima 2) service engine soon light comes on, car runs normal 3) pull code P0420 (Catalyst efficiency low - bank 1) 4) now what? thanks!
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Oct 25, 2008 00:50
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Clear the code and see if it comes back. Then worry further.
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Oct 25, 2008 06:21
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mr.belowaverage posted:Nice, but how does it run now!? It's stopped stuttering, and it's not loud anymore. Back to normal. The check engine light came back on though. Oh well.
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Oct 25, 2008 14:34
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I just installed a pretty demanding audio system in my car - 2000W max total + 2F cap - and am thinking of upgrading my battery. I already did the big 3, my stock alternator runs 110A, with an Interstate Mega-tron battery. Since I do a lot of short city driving (like <10miles), my alternator doesn't get much of a chance to fully charge the battery so my voltmeter commonly shows 15V+. Prior to this battery and audio system, I've had my car battery fail to start the car simply because I played music on the stock system too loud during short drives. Would a 'deep cycling' battery like an Odyssey PC925 be good for the health of my car's electrical system, making sure the car starts every time and allowing me to play my music whenever I want?
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Oct 25, 2008 14:45
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I haven't looked at it yet but: If I replace my current alignment bolts (miata) with new ones, does that affect my alignment? Gut would say yes but I don't know how much force it takes to shift the alignment.
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Oct 25, 2008 15:01
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Question: is this part something that could've come off a 1996 Toyota Camry? My brother found it while raking leaves right in front of my parking spot and I am the only person who parks there. Its right next to the sidewalk so I'm hoping its just something somebody found and tossed behind the low granite wall on the property.   There are some markings on the rubber in the middle. On one side there is a hard to read (illegible number)4 17581-67010 and on the other is >NR+SBR<
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Oct 25, 2008 17:22
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That is a weighted damper for the exhaust system. Keeps vibration down but most people don't notice a difference when they fall off. That is deffinatly off your toyota, judging by the toyota part number 
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Oct 25, 2008 18:26
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Dark Solux posted:That is a weighted damper for the exhaust system. Keeps vibration down but most people don't notice a difference when they fall off. That is deffinatly off your toyota, judging by the toyota part number Would this vibration be more noticeable at highway seeds due to the increased engine load? I have been getting some strange buzzings lately but nothing making me think the car was about to fall apart. Side question: About a year ago I found a rubber part that looks like the bottom half of this vibration damper in about the same spot. I must have thrown it out but I believe the top was slightly rounded while the sides came out at a sloping angle. My thinking was that it went into a mount somewhere but I'm also not a car whiz. I don't have any part numbers or pictures of it unfortunately but I figure I'll take a shot in the dark and ask anyway.
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Oct 25, 2008 18:33
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I have a 99 ford f-150 with 397,000 miles on the odometer. I have recently started pulling a 5 by 8 cargo trailer for work almost daily and it is sucking down the gas. I am curious if some small modifications such as a K&N filter and some kind of throttle body spacer might help my MPG some? I also gave thought to installing a more open exhaust system than the stock one? I am pretty much car retarded, but these are tasks I feel I could complete myself and so I am interested in them. Also, here in Texas I believe the exhaust only has to extend past the cab of the truck. I don't care about how the truck sounds, as long as it isn't too ridiculously loud. I am also very open to suggestions, because I am getting more interested in wrenching on my vehicles myself.
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Oct 26, 2008 04:48
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iamthexander posted:Cat issues Most cars ahve an 8 yr 80k mi emissions warranty. Some are longer. p0420s can be anything, but are generally O2s or the cat itself.
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Oct 26, 2008 07:53
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Darkstitch posted:It's stopped stuttering, and it's not loud anymore. Back to normal. The check engine light came back on though. Oh well. Spray some soapy water on it where you attached the flange and hose and see if it bubbles anywhere. You might still have a vacuum leak.
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Oct 27, 2008 06:06
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nm posted:How many miles? Just over 100k. I've cleared the code and its yet to come back, so I'm thinking it must have been an engine misfire. Does that make sense?
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Oct 27, 2008 07:35
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Kind of stupid, but maybe it's confusing question here. On my 2004 Impala it has automatic headlights. There are three options for the headlights: automatic, on, and whatever the yellow lights on the side are called. How do I installed a kill switch to turn all of them off. I want to be able to sit with my car running while not having any lights on.
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Oct 27, 2008 13:08
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Cop posted:Kind of stupid, but maybe it's confusing question here.
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Oct 27, 2008 13:15
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Engaging the emergency brake in a running car will turn off the lights in many cars.
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Oct 27, 2008 18:07
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Well instead of rewiring anything I went ahead and took the relay out and bent the pin like it says on that website. Now all I have to do is switch it to driving lights and I won't have any lights on. Thanks for the link.
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Oct 27, 2008 23:25
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What exactly is crank walk?
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Oct 28, 2008 05:48
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Lilbeefer posted:What exactly is crank walk? quote:This problem involves the crank bearings on 4G63 (the turbo motor) engines in 1995-1999 cars. The problem seems to be that excess play in the crank bearings can cause the crank to travel ("walk") back and forth along its axis of rotation in the block, eventually wearing out the bearing housings and potentially damaging the block itself. (That's bad.) http://www.machv.com/wal19tur.html
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Oct 28, 2008 07:53
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Here's a stupid question. 1994 Honda Accord LX Sedan, Manual, 195,000 Miles. All original besides alternator and timing belt/water pump replaced at ~90,000 Miles, clutch slave cylinder and radiator replaced at ~160,000 Miles. I thought I was going to sell it so I let it slip into disrepair. Decided to keep it and see how long it will go. What can I do to keep it running? I've done (other than oil change and brake pads): -Spark plugs -Transmission Oil -Air Filter I'm having the timing belt and water pump replaced in January along with a CV joint. What about valves and throttle, fuel filters and the other crap I don't know about? What can I easily do myself? I'm mechanically inclined, have very few tools, and want to spend as little as possible. Gorgak fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Oct 28, 2008 |
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Oct 28, 2008 17:42
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Just fix what needs fixing and keep up on the regular maintenance. Run some injector cleaner and generally degunk anything that needs it. Watch the rust on the thin Honda steel.
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Oct 28, 2008 18:02
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Petekill posted:Lilbeefer posted: Heres a visual aid:
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Oct 28, 2008 19:56
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I'm looking for a convertible for my mom. There is a guy on craigslist selling a 1993 Celica convertible for $1500. She is willing to spend way more money but I don't think she should since the drop-top driving season in Nebraska is so short and she only puts about 9000 miles per year on her 2000 Accord. The good: -Toyota Camry drivetrain -cheap -not a Chrysler Sebring or a Cavalier -automatic (my mom refuses to drive a car with a manual trans) The bad: -200k miles -the top is ripped and the rear window is made of tape -there is some rust on the rear quarter behind the tire and a big rust spot on the middle of the driver's door. -not a Miata, S2000, or MR-Spyder (she refuses to consider these options) I looked around online and it appears that a new vinyl top can be found for around $300. How hard is it to put a top in a car this size? I expect it is harder than installing a top on a Miata. Second, are the doors the same on the Celica coupe and convertible of this vintage (91-93)? The convertible obviously has frameless windows. Does the coupe? Basically is it worth offering the guy 1000 bucks and replacing the top myself (or myself and a friend) and sourcing a junkyard door that is already red? I can only picture finding a JY door if the more popular coupes are part of the donor pool.
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Oct 28, 2008 21:36
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Ok, my 1995 Buick Regal 3.8 Custom has an exhaust leak...the pipe that connects behind the cat and O2 sensor rusted off where they bolt together. However,I cannot find what the drat pipe diameter is so that I can get the adapters to try and clamp everything together. Does anyone know what the pipe diameter is, and what random bits I'd need, aside from clamps, to try and keep this together?
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Oct 29, 2008 01:10
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How do I get the trunk left side trim panel out of a 1990 Acura Integra (hatchback) so that I can fix the drat antenna?
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Oct 29, 2008 05:53
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PBCrunch posted:Second, are the doors the same on the Celica coupe and convertible of this vintage (91-93)? The convertible obviously has frameless windows. Does the coupe? This was the last popular Celica generation, so plentiful donors, and the coupe and convertible doors are the same as far as I could figure out. They are all frameless.
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Oct 29, 2008 08:43
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Now that its getting colder the rear window defogger not working is become a massive pain. The light on the switch comes on, but the rear window doesn't do anything. I could only find one connection in the trunk for the widow so I connected it in series and it was getting current. What else can I check? For reference the car is a 1990 Chevy Corsica.
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Oct 29, 2008 18:23
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I drive a Ford Taurus, and my door panels are popping off.. I have replaced the retainer things with ones from Autozone, NAPA, and Schucks at various different times.. They work for a week, then bam the door is loose and only 2 or 3 are holding on. Would the ford retainers work better? I know that both doors have all the retainer holders intact (replaced drivers side since it lost one of the retainer holders. I also got randomly a CES light and pulled the code and got the following: 0133 - Google says its a Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response(Bank 1, Sensor 1) cleared the code and now its fine.. was it just being retarded? One last one about brakes, the drums screech at slow speeds (in a drive-thru, parking lot, etc). Pads are fine, and drums are too.. but they make annoying noises at lower speeds and it isn't affected much if they are warm either. No-Squeal works for a day or two; whats causing the noise? Is it just the pad type, I had the brakes done @ Brake Team (mistake) and they had to replace the assembly since a retaining spring came out and was causing noises, they replaced the hardware that was damaged and stuff, but the wheels make a screeching noise. The fronts have no problems at all just are unable to use a Spare Tire.
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Oct 29, 2008 19:05
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I need to replace my battery on my Lexus IS300 what's the best brand or best performing battery to get? I want something to last a very long time, has power for when I need it (like say, keeping the lights on for a couple minutes), constant high-beam usage and I don't want to deal with lovely cold morning starts. Today my battery was dead and I think it has lovely charge life left, since it's a couple years old (I know I know  )So what's a very good battery to get? Price isn't an issue, I need a good performance! THANKS BROS
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Oct 29, 2008 20:20
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Cabana Boi <3 posted:I drive a Ford Taurus, and my door panels are popping off.. If any of these fail, fall out, or are forgotten about, then when you pull the door shut, you're pulling on the plastic clips and they really aren't made for that -- they should never be under any real stress. If you can feel the plastic interior panel flex when you pull on it, there's a missing or failed screw somewhere. Find it and replace it. Otherwise, it's probably a warped door panel.
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Oct 29, 2008 20:29
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Bahamutsrage posted:I need to replace my battery on my Lexus IS300 Car battery life, as much as it can be associated with some brand, has more to do with your usage than anything. If all you do is blast high-beams (which I see no reason for in most city roads), turn on all kinds of poo poo in the car before your alternator actually works to recharge/power the rest of the car etc, then you're looking at a very short battery life no matter what. If you want to keep using the car that way, I'm not sure if there is any battery that anyone can suggest for you.
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Oct 29, 2008 21:22
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Bahamutsrage posted:So what's a very good battery to get? Price isn't an issue, I need a good performance! Unless you have a powerful stereo or a shitload of accessories that you're going to use with the key off, then you won't notice any difference between batteries. Optimas are nice, but pretty drat expensive for what they are, and that extra current isn't going to do anything unless you're using it. If you're really set on getting something nice though, check out Stinger's SP line, or Kinetik's HC series. EDIT: You could go for an aftermarket alternator like an Ohio Generator or Powermaster as well, but again, it's just going to be a waste. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Oct 29, 2008 |
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Oct 29, 2008 23:35
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So a while back I made a thread about volvo 850 wagons, as I was going to need a car with more room when I got a third dog. Now that I'm finally getting a third dog this weekend, I need a vehicle with either a third row of seats or a large area like the 850 wagons (need to fit 2 great danes, a german shepherd, plus my wife and I). My only other problem is parking a third vehicle, my garage only has room for 2 cars so I have to park it on my driveway somewhere (it's a long driveway that has a 90 degree turn so there's enough room to fit a car and still be able to get the other cars out of the house without having to move the third car). This means I'm probably better off getting a small wagon than a SUV with a third row, but I'm not sure what all is out there. What vehicles should I be considering? I like the looks of the 850s and they seem to be sporty enough (not that it really matters but given the choice I'd prefer a sportier car), but reading the volvo forums makes me worry about things like head gasket issues. I'll be doing most of the maintenance myself so I'm not too worried about little things, however I have no experience doing engine work and would like to avoid it. I think I'd be willing to spend up to $4k on the car, but would prefer $3k or less. I'm also not worried about parts being more expensive for certain brands, as the car will probably be driven under 1k miles a year, I just want something that is likely to not have problems that cost thousands to fix. Looking at los angeles craigslist I found a 1991 mercedes 300 TE wagon for $2500, are they old enough mercedes that they're still reliable (unlike the newer ones)? http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/893195325.html
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Oct 30, 2008 21:48
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I need to know this: On a 2005 Ford Escape: The headlights are turned on at night. The bright lights are then engaged clicking the left stalk(the headlight stalk) forward. Now the brights are engaged. Do the brights turn on along with the low beams or do the low beams turn off and the high beams stay on by themselves? This is a two-bulb setup, not a dual filament. Thanks.
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Oct 30, 2008 23:12
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I need to replace my battery and my friend has a spare one that he bought year ago and never installed: 1. Can I still use this if it sat unused for a year? 2. If so do I need to charge it? 3. What should the reading be using multimeter? Thanks!
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Oct 30, 2008 23:53
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foundtomorrow posted:I need to know this: The low beams shut off when the high beams are are. When high beams are on, your foglights (if OEM and on a seperate switch from the lowbeams) will shut off as well. Having a lot of foreground light (running low beams+high beams) compromises your vision at night, not allowing you to see in the distance, which defeats the whole purpose of high beams.
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Oct 31, 2008 03:01
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What is a good solvent for cleaning out a diesel/veg oil tank? I'm dropping my front tank tomorrow and replacing the hosed-up plastic fuel pickup (with a stainless Hot Fox), so there may be bits of rotted rubber or plastic in there, as well as the other crap you would expect to find in a 25yr-old tank. A painting contractor friend of mine said acetone, because it has good solvent abilities and evaporates quickly. I am wary of using gas, because I plan on getting the tank back on and in use as soon as possible and I don't want contamination. Do they make a special cleaner just for tanks?
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Oct 31, 2008 12:54
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I dunno if it would be "ok" for the inside of a tank but I was simply amazed how well brake cleaner works and it practically evaporated before it dripped off my rear drums. Pretty awesome stuff.
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Oct 31, 2008 14:40
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digger_smolkin posted:What is a good solvent for cleaning out a diesel/veg oil tank? I'm dropping my front tank tomorrow and replacing the hosed-up plastic fuel pickup (with a stainless Hot Fox), so there may be bits of rotted rubber or plastic in there, as well as the other crap you would expect to find in a 25yr-old tank. A painting contractor friend of mine said acetone, because it has good solvent abilities and evaporates quickly. I am wary of using gas, because I plan on getting the tank back on and in use as soon as possible and I don't want contamination. Do they make a special cleaner just for tanks? Almost 99% of the organic chemicals is soluable in Acetone. This includes gasoline. However, if the tank is coated on the inside however it may dissolve that too!
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Oct 31, 2008 16:06
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I would like to replace the seats in my car. The stockers are not very comfortable, and it really kills long rides. How can I find seats that will fit my vehicle (Suzuki SX4)? Are there common rail sizes? Do I need to be concerned about the seatbelt at all?
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Oct 31, 2008 20:16
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So, I've left my old '98 Passat sitting for over two months while it's waiting for me to have some spare time to do some work on it and get it sold. Over this time period, it seems like the battery has drained, so when I went to put it up on ramps this morning, I had to jump it from my newer Passat. Anyway, having not fully woken up, I stalled the drat thing climbing up the ramps and now it won't start up again. Starter turns the engine over with the jumper cables connected, but I think it's running a bit slow and isn't getting the engine running. Am I right in thinking that the battery is the culprit here even though I'm jumping it? I'm planning on running to Autozone to get it tested and replaced, but I'm hoping for some confirmation that this is worthwhile before I make the trip.
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Nov 1, 2008 19:12
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