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Cat Terrist posted:Does this apply to STI's as well? TractionControl posted:It's an NA Subaru Outback, though. Could possibly be the heatshield on the exhaust. Have a look at the shield that mounts to the top of the cat converter on the manifold. Usually the metal cracks around the stud on the outside rear and can sometimes sound like a whistle.
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Oct 29, 2008 08:26
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Cat Terrist posted:There's the problem - NASIOC is a shithole. Hmmmm I've been considering an '06-'07 STI, what's the deal with NASIOC? I've only been there a couple of times looking at the classifieds/tech section.
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Oct 29, 2008 10:45
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^^^^ Imagine if everyone in GBS had a WRX and then posted without moderators. It's a worthless shithole - go to scoobymods.com instead. And an 06-07 STI is awesome poo poo. ChunksNensja posted:STI's seemed to suffer from the piston problem a lot more than bottom ends but it isn't unheard of. I know of one that had a short block replaced for cracked piston ringlands and then got a long motor replaced because it had a bottom end knock. gently caress. Scrubs that idea by the sounds of it. So you would say that using one for motorsport would be just asking for trouble?
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Oct 29, 2008 11:31
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Cat Terrist posted:gently caress. Scrubs that idea by the sounds of it. At the moment it's hard to say. The one thing is that if they are going to blow you're going to find out early, usually within the first 15,000kms. Personally, for a race car i'd be more inclined to buy one thats been used and run in with a few kms on it. Make sure it's been serviced and get it compression tested then get a full tune on a dyno. If you bought one new for motorsport purposes you might be fine and it will run like a champ forever. I would just be too scared to spend 60-large on a car that could have one day racing and then 3 weeks back at the dealer getting a new short block.
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Oct 29, 2008 13:29
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Cat Terrist posted:^^^^ Imagine if everyone in GBS had a WRX and then posted without moderators. It's a worthless shithole - go to scoobymods.com instead. Scoobymods is awesome. NASIOC is annoying, but the information base is so huge that there is a TON of information available if you use the Search function efficiently. And the marketplace is HUGE, I've bought and sold so many parts on NASIOC. Also Cat Terrist please get an '06/07 STi in Alpine White with gold BBS rims and take pictures  I have heard of a few stock '07s that have blown motors with bottom end problems, and there is a lot going around about them running insanely lean from the factory under full boost or a lovely factory tune or something. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Oct 29, 2008 |
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Oct 29, 2008 21:31
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Cat Terrist posted:
In the US, at least, the 06s are fine. The big problem with cracked ringlands occurs on the 07 cars. They changed the ECU and the injectors, and from what I've read the stock tune can cause a nasty lean condition up top, and if that happens often enough, the ringlands break. It is fixed with an AP or some other type of EM. My 07 is at 13k miles now, and I've had some form of EM on it since around 2-3k, so hopefully I'll be alright. If not I guess that's just a good excuse for a set of forged pistons.
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Oct 29, 2008 21:59
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Exactly how much turd polishing would it be if I wanted to put some new suspension parts in my 99 OBS? It handles about as well as a beached whale now. All I'd really want to do is some new shocks, springs and maybe some strut/anti-sway bars.
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Oct 29, 2008 23:14
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So, I heard thru the grapevine (rs25.com - http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91028) that Subaru found a domestic supplier for their OEM oil filters. Previously, they were shipped from Japan and very high quality. I guess the new supplier is Honeywell who makes Fram Oil filters. Might be time to stock up on the old OEM oil filters if you use them. The part number for the Tokyo Roki filter is 15208AA100 The part number for the Honeywell filter is 15208AA12A
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Oct 29, 2008 23:22
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So I bought an 05 STi a few months ago, planning to split daily duty with my trans am in the summer, and back up the beater all winter long. Its now rapidly coming up on winter, I've got the snow rim on the STi and I was wondering... Does anyone know where to get a car cover for it? I'd like one with a cool pocket for the spoiler, but I don't really want to spend $300 on it. Its not being stored outside or anything, I just want to keep the dust off of it as I'm not really planning on driving it more than a few hundred miles over the next few months. I've heard the wheel bearings aren't the best on these cars, but how much extra offset will they handle? I think the rims are Enkei P1s, because thats whats stamped on them, but I can't find any real pictures of them on GIS. I assume they're the same offset as the BBS summer rims, but they only have like .050" clearence between the spoke and the brake caliper. The calipers already have a few chips in them, i assume from rocks and poo poo getting jammed in there. I'd like to machine a few like 1/8" spacers or something, but I don't want to roast the wheel bearings in 15 miles, you know?
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Oct 30, 2008 03:14
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I wonder if maybe they are Enkei RP-01 wheels, and maybe they don't print the R for some reason? As for the oil filter change, Mazda changes their supplier at what seems like every five minutes. It's never really mattered.
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Oct 30, 2008 07:42
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Yeah, I've seen a bunch of 07s with cracked ringlands, but none of them were bone stock or modded well. I've heard that some stock cars cracked pistons, but it's all been second or third hand. There's an 07 we've put a bunch of parts on and tuned multiple times. Most recent change was an ATP 3071 and a re-tune which makes 350whp on our poo poo 91 octane. I'd be moderately surprised if it cracked a piston on the current tune. As for problems with the bottom end, I haven't seen or heard of any except for a few 09 wrxes. CT, you should not worry at all about picking up an 05-06 sti for rally. Especially if you run water injection or feel like putting in some forged pistons.
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Oct 30, 2008 09:00
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jamal posted:
Someone's got it worked out what's on my mind.... I've looked at EVO IX's, which seem to be the best shot, but to be honest I dont want to do another Bitsaremissing. An EVO X RS is the cheapest brand new but it's a heavy oval office. An 08 of all things is looking like the cheapest to use - the rear suspension after a tear down and look at isnt really to my liking. I can just read problems all over it. But for what I have in mind, new is going to work best for the sake of homologation longevity and I just man up and deal with the issues. There's a 06 Spec C that I know is for sale, fully prepped for a good price. Still, STI's have crashed in prices here so an 06 or an 07 could well be on the cards.
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Oct 30, 2008 09:36
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Alright, I'm looking at picking up a Subaru. Must be somewhat respectable/new looking (ie no Loyales, XTs, etc). Must be AWD or RWD. I terribly dislike FWD in the snow. Is there any way to tell based on exterior features if this: 1993 Impreza 4dr 5sp is an AWD Subbie or not? God these things are rare and expensive in Colorado, but I'm looking for a car to use year-round that I can maintain and INSURE. I'm not able to pay my parents for my insurance anymore, and I'm only 22. I don't feel like paying for collision/comprehensive on my GTI, or any other car that costs enough to have full coverage on. So I'm looking at <$2000 cars that I would not be that upset about losing if I total them/they get stolen (I plan on doing everything in my power to prevent THAT from happening though as I've had a motorcycle stolen out of the back of my truck while I was inside for a few hours - a big heavy XR500R from a big tall Tacoma...). Any way to tell if that Subaru is AWD or not. I know some were FWD until 97? But seeing as this is Colorado it quite possibly might be AWD. Help.
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Oct 31, 2008 04:18
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Call and ask the guy if it's AWD? Or, get the VIN and you can find out that way. If either of those methods fail, get the seller to take a picture under the car in the back. If there's no differential then it's FWD.
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Oct 31, 2008 05:16
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ab0z posted:Call and ask the guy if it's AWD? Well, gently caress yes obviously. Its just after 9 so I can't call him and I'd rather not bother if someone is going to say something like "black mirrors and molding=base model=FWD only. I know the tricks exist. I can look at any stock mkIV VW and tell you which engine it has, what variant of the motor, the trim level, etc. Everything except for things like interior options or trans (unless there is only one option for the model/engine/etc). I thought there might be something similar. I can obviously ask him or identify an AWD in person. Christ.
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Oct 31, 2008 05:24
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AWD was just an option, not a separate trim level. It may be that all the 5-speeds were AWD, as the slushboxes have some crazy gizmo for a differential that makes it easy to switch into "FWD" mode. So, it could just be that without the rear drive shaft and differential and all that crap. edit: Nope, FWD can be had with the stick and the slush. http://www.cars101.com/impreza_archive93_96.html#1993%20impreza carticket fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Oct 31, 2008 |
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Oct 31, 2008 05:29
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Mr. Powers posted:AWD was just an option, not a separate trim level. It may be that all the 5-speeds were AWD, as the slushboxes have some crazy gizmo for a differential that makes it easy to switch into "FWD" mode. So, it could just be that without the rear drive shaft and differential and all that crap. Yes, but if the car in the pic can be identified as a BASE model, it must be FWD. Some other hints: If we can figure out if those are 14" wheels it is likely AWD (FWD was 13). According to that site the base model only had one mirror. THis has two, clearly (must be an L then, but L was available with FWD too). Also, looking at the specs... WTF is a hill-holder clutch?
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Oct 31, 2008 05:40
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Disciple of Pain posted:If we can figure out if those are 14" wheels it is likely AWD (FWD was 13). quote:Also, looking at the specs... WTF is a hill-holder clutch? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Oct 31, 2008 |
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Oct 31, 2008 06:21
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Yeah. I don't know. Subarus are great and all, but I don't know that I can justify it for the price. I'm looking for this cheap car that is easy to work on, good in snow, etc. I don't consider AWD a huge necessity for snow almost anywhere I would be living. I'm thinking about dropping the money on a Volvo 240 instead. It will be a little older, but in my experience they are a lot nicer on the inside, great in snow, easier to work on than I imagine a Subbie to be, and theres just something classy about pulling into a lot and getting out of a nice 240. Plus if I got an estate I could haul like, 8 loving people or my girlfriend and I with my dog, a ton of camping stuff, bikes, etc. I dunno. If these old Subarus were lower in price I would be all over it, but finding one under 2000 that isn't beat to poo poo or busted is tough. I'm still going to call the guy tomorrow because if that car is AWD it might be an OK deal if he bargains a bit with me. I'm also going to go look at a 245DL Wagon for $1000 (and its been on CL for over a month, so he might be willing to negotiate a lot). The way I see it, $1000 to purchase something, with $300 to fix what needs to be fixed mechanically right away, do all the basic maintenance (fluids, wear items, etc), and then $700 to work on fixing some naggling things that are just cosmetic/convenience items.. And I could have something that is truly my own. Which to me is better than just a $2000 economy car.
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Oct 31, 2008 06:36
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Saw this on Denver Craigslist, the photos kind of suck though so it's hard to tell how good/bad it looks http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/898373444.html
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Oct 31, 2008 07:07
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Disciple of Pain posted:
It's basically a ball-bearing inside an angled tube that the brake lines run through, with no electronics being involved in the process. When the car is on an uphill grade and stops, the hill-holder traps brake pressure in the lines to prevent rolling backwards when the brake pedal is released in order to make taking off from the hill easier on the driver. The way the system is designed, the trapped brake pressure is released as the clutch pedal is brought up when taking off so the effect is the same as taking off from a hill while gradually releasing the parking brake. Probably because the system is so drat simple, it works very well, but it can be a pain for parallel parking, since the system will sometimes start engaging when it shouldn't and can make reversing a bit of a pain. To disable the system, it's possible to re-route the brake lines around the hill-holder, but the more common (and much easier) method is to just disconnect the cable running to the device to keep it from engaging at all.
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Oct 31, 2008 07:36
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Disciple of Pain posted:Yes, but if the car in the pic can be identified as a BASE model, it must be FWD. Yeah, I didn't see the note above about the base model being FWD only. I can tell you based on the 16" wheels in my Impreza, which, AFAIK, the wheel wells haven't changed since '93, those definitely look like they'd have to be 14".
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Oct 31, 2008 14:03
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Disciple of Pain posted:Yeah. http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/893567203.html http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/865172239.html You'll probably have the best luck looking for early to mid 90s Legacys... they seem to be a little easier to grab running and in good condition under 2k. Imprezas seem to hold their value a touch more and there aren't quite as many out there. I've been looking for a project Subaru as well, and though my price cap is a little higher than yours, I've had the same problems you're experiencing. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the reverse of buying a convertible in spring where people are either waiting until the weather passes to sell so they can get a little more use from the car, or raising the price because of the impending season.
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Nov 1, 2008 03:39
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So in case any of the Legacy GT guys are interested, Perrin has their top mount intercooler on sale for $499, regularly $899. I just ordered one - I haven't even done uppipe/downpipe yet, but figure it'll be good to have to go with them, as I've heard a lot of horror stories of the stock intercooler blowing its end tanks under added boost. Anyone have any experience with installing these? I've seen a 50/50 mix of horror stories about it not fitting properly vs. it going in fairly easily.
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Nov 4, 2008 19:55
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there's a little rubber piece on the TB coupler you need to remove, and it helps to trim off the little plastic clip that holds the pcv line right in front of the i/c. then you can push the hose down for more clearance.
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Nov 4, 2008 21:05
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TeamIce posted:So in case any of the Legacy GT guys are interested, Perrin has their top mount intercooler on sale for $499, regularly $899. I just ordered one - I haven't even done uppipe/downpipe yet, but figure it'll be good to have to go with them, as I've heard a lot of horror stories of the stock intercooler blowing its end tanks under added boost. Anyone have any experience with installing these? I've seen a 50/50 mix of horror stories about it not fitting properly vs. it going in fairly easily. I had the Perrin on my LGT after I kept blowing the end tanks off the stock intercooler running 19psi. It was a pain in the rear end to get everything to fit and lineup correctly, but we eventually got it on and everything bolted up and sealed correctly. Do the up pipe/downpipe at the same time and then get the car tuned, it will be a completely different beast.
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Nov 4, 2008 21:20
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I'm sorely tempted by this... must... resist... As a side comment... as a result of the dealings I've had with Cobb recently, I cannot recommend them enough as a vendor for your Subaru. And they will be a top contender for my business in any future purchases for my LGT. \/\/\/\/ I agree, they probably won't be my ultimate choice, but the level of customer service they've shown me in my dealings has been top tier, so they'll definitely be on my shortlist moving forward. \/\/\/\/ Beverly Cleavage fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Nov 4, 2008 |
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Nov 4, 2008 21:27
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there are things I would buy from cobb and perrin, namely intercoolers and accessports, but I'm not a huge fan of some of the other products they make. We're an accessport protuner and have a really good relationship with cobb, but I'll still never recommend their springs (too low) or swaybars (you get better parts from whiteline).
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Nov 4, 2008 21:40
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few new photos from a "Shining" themed Halloween party at Timberline Lodge. 
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Nov 4, 2008 21:55
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MMD3 posted:few new photos from a "Shining" themed Halloween party at Timberline Lodge. It looks like you've got a little bit of vignetting there.
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Nov 4, 2008 23:12
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Mr. Powers posted:It looks like you've got a little bit of vignetting there. I'd guess by the amount of vignetting that it was on purpose/Photoshop.
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Nov 5, 2008 00:04
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TurboLuvah posted:I'd guess by the amount of vignetting that it was on purpose/Photoshop. yeah, I just batch processed the whole set that way in lightroom to fit the mood of the event. might make more sense if you look at the rest but I probably could have toned it down a bit on the car shots. I've never really tried to take any beauty photos of my cars before. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3218/2998193931_0b1c39bdd4_b.jpg http://flickr.com/photos/justinkent/sets/72157608616124901/
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Nov 5, 2008 01:57
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TurboLuvah posted:I'd guess by the amount of vignetting that it was on purpose/Photoshop. It was meant to be a bit sarcastic/cynical.
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Nov 5, 2008 06:52
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Has anyone installed an auxiliary backup light on their first-gen Impreza? I'm trying to figure out a way to mount one without drilling the body in any obvious places. One idea I had was to find a trunk lip CB antenna mount and retrofit it with a light instead.
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Nov 5, 2008 15:49
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I post in this thread:B4Ctom1 posted:I test drove a replacement recently. A clean 1997 Legacy wagon (stick) with 135k on the clock. I inspected it and all seems sound. The airbox is even paint pen marked "rear diff oil changed xxxxx miles xx date" One of the front boots is about to split (I can see the tale tale checking in the rubber and mild weeping). The car books for $3850 retail and they are asking $4300. Everything works even the power stuff, good AC etc. He told me that he would go "down" to $4k. and you come across with this stuff within driving distance which is essentially half the price! Thanks! Mat_Drinks posted:http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/893567203.html
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Nov 5, 2008 20:32
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Anyone know how the base Rally Armor mudflaps differ from the UR RA mudflaps in terms of performance?
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Nov 5, 2008 23:36
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Exactly what does my OBS need to handle better? I've already planned for springs, new struts, strut towers and a rear sway bar, is there anything else I'd need? Also, what size of sway bar should I use? I want this car to still be comfortable to drive on the road, so I'm not planning anything too extreme.
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Nov 5, 2008 23:56
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littlehulkster posted:Exactly what does my OBS need to handle better? I've already planned for springs, new struts, strut towers and a rear sway bar, is there anything else I'd need? My understanding is that 17" wheels are your best weight/performance trade off. 18" wheels usually weigh more, though they would have less tire roll, and 16" wheels weigh less, but have more sidewall roll.
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Nov 6, 2008 00:53
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Fantastipotamus posted:Bigger wheels and low profile tires will help, too. I think the OBS's have 15 or 16" wheels, right? I already have some stock 03 WRX wheels on it, which I managed to pick up for free. I'll look at some new ones though if I don't like how it handles with the suspension bits. I'm trying to keep this as low budget as possible because an OBS really isn't worth putting much into. I was thinking of salvaging the swaybar from a WRX or 2.5RS. As for the tires, I need to drive this thing in the winter, so I can't go too crazy. Oh, it's a 99 OBS by the way. littlehulkster fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 01:41
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Mr. Powers posted:Anyone know how the base Rally Armor mudflaps differ from the UR RA mudflaps in terms of performance? Echoing this question. I really want a set of good mudflaps, but $130 for a set is kind of steep.
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Nov 6, 2008 04:55
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