|
Where could I find where to change the timing belt on my 2002 Civic Ex? I mean, like a Haynes or something.
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2008 10:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 04:08 |
|
|
Tim706 posted:The rattling is probably the exhaust. More specifically a heat shield is most likely loose and rattling free. The easiest solution is take it off the car. If it's rattling it's probably pretty close to coming off already. Turns out there was an issue with my Hydraulic Timing Belt Tensioner Damper and that is what was causing the rattle.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2008 18:05
|
|
|
Im sure you guys get this question all the time and probably perfect for this thread but its a simple where should I start question. I dont know anything about motors aside from general knowledge on how to change oil and whatnot but I couldnt tell you what a carburator does, how a transmission works and whatnot. Unfortunatly I was planning on taking an automotive class but sure enought he college here doesnt offer one so Im forced to look into books which of course there are tons and tons of them so I thought to ask here and see if you had any advice. Im really into motorcycles and what sparked this is I own a 2001 Honda ACE and looking to start modifying it and figured that learning how it works would probably be a good thing to look into as someday id like to restore a Harley Davidson. Anyways thanks for any assistance.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2008 16:33
|
|
|
I looked back a few pages but couldn't find anything that seemed to help, so here goes: I found two really small (maybe 2-3 centimeters) size rust spots on the top of my driver's side door. I saw some Krylon Rust Fix, that supposedly turns the rust into a black primer, anyone have any experience with this? Outside of that, what would be the best fix for that?
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2008 19:36
|
|
|
Shockwave3000 you have the right idea, just start doing projects within your ability and you'll gain experience. Do you have any handy friends or family that you can assist on projects?stimpy posted:I looked back a few pages but couldn't find anything that seemed to help, so here goes: Are the spots visible when you close the door or are they literally on the top where it meets the seal? As for the "best fix", how much money to you want to spend and how expensive is the car?
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2008 20:06
|
|
|
Legitimate posted:Are the spots visible when you close the door or are they literally on the top where it meets the seal? As for the "best fix", how much money to you want to spend and how expensive is the car? They're just barely visible at the top of the door. They're right where the door seals at the top, just barely beyond the seal on the door side (as opposed to the body side). I don't want to spend a ton of money. Its nothing top of the line, just what I use to get from place to place. I just want to stop it from doing more damage mainly. I'm not particularly concerned with whether or not the paint matches dead on perfect or is completely smooth, I just don't want it to eat my door, so most cost efficient while eliminating the rust without much regard to appearance.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2008 20:15
|
|
|
So I got lowering springs for my car that's equipped with struts all round (or is it multi link in the rear?). How is that going to affect the angle at which my wheels touch the road? So far the handling improvement is pretty drat incredible.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2008 20:18
|
|
|
Struts are just a part that holds the shock, if you know how inserts work then you will know what I mean. Shocks are like what you see on the back of a truck, the strut housing is the piece with all the brackets to connect to the upright. Lowering may or may not change the camber, won't change toe, and won't change the castor angle. It all depends on the suspension design, you are setting the wheel permanently ina position that was under compression on the stock spring-length, so you may have mor or less camber.
DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Nov 7, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2008 20:51
|
|
|
stimpy posted:They're just barely visible at the top of the door. They're right where the door seals at the top, just barely beyond the seal on the door side (as opposed to the body side). I don't want to spend a ton of money. Its nothing top of the line, just what I use to get from place to place. I just want to stop it from doing more damage mainly. I'm not particularly concerned with whether or not the paint matches dead on perfect or is completely smooth, I just don't want it to eat my door, so most cost efficient while eliminating the rust without much regard to appearance. You've got a couple options- 1) remove rust down to bare metal then prime & paint or 2) clean/sand and put on the rust converter. The rust converter can also act as a primer if you are going to paint over it. Rust converters (I'm talking about the kind that combines tannic acid and polymer) do work but if the rust goes much beyond the surface it is only a band-aid. Alot of time when people think they have "surface rust", it actually bad rust that has come up to the surface. The advice below applies only if rust does not require metal cut-out. Anyway, to prepare for the first option you need to take it down to the metal with wire brushes or a grinder, even a dremel would work with the little spots you are describing. Start with a heavy grit then progress to a lighter grit. Take off a little around the edges of the rust spots, as well. Wash with a degreaser like dishsoap then rinse well. Let it completely dry then apply a sandable primer and let that dry. Use a light grit abrasive paper and sand lightly to prep for paint. Apply 2-3 light coats of paint allowing each coat to dry complete in between. For the rust converter option, use a wire brush then sandpaper to prepare the surface. Wash with a degreaser like dishsoap then rinse well. Let it completely dry then apply the first coat of rust converter. Let completely dry then apply a second coat. If you are going to paint, use a light grit abrasive paper and sand lightly to prep. Apply 2-3 light coats of paint allowing each coat to dry complete in between.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2008 20:55
|
|
|
adambomb286 posted:
I didn't see any answers, and take this with a grain of salt... Yes, it could be sludge, but it could also be a few things... if the oil is in need, or overdue for a change, or low, you'll get the ticking sound from the lifters. An engine flush couldn't hurt, BUT be warned that if you do, and you have sludge blocking up holes in the front and rear seals, or gaskets, you could end up with an engine that leaks oil like a seive... On the other hand, it's still worth doing, at least then you'll know. The process is basically dump a can of engine flush in, run at idle for about 5 - 10 minutes, drain oil, put in fresh oil and filter, and away you go. If you have a really sludgy engine, I'd suggest doing it once, then drive about 500 miles, then flush again, but that's just my suggestion. Now, the other thing you could be seeing is the oil pump getting ready to go on you... I'm not sure if an oil pump would fail intermittently like that or not though, but flushing the engine is a LOT cheaper than getting a new oil pump put in, so YMMV. Also, it could simply be a loose wire. Those trucks don't have a real oil pressure guage in them. The gauge is more or less a mechanical dummy light. If it reads more than 0, you're good. If it reads nothing, either the gauge is broken, the connection is broken, a wire is loose, or a bunch of other electrical things.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 00:08
|
|
about an F-150
|
I got a great deal on a couple wheels, and I need to know what they are so I can get slimmer ones for the front. Can anyone help me identify them? 
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 03:18
|
|
|
My focus has been making a weird noise lately. Its an 03 svt and when slowly braking to a stop, or braking to a stop with the clutch in and the car in first gear it will make a pretty loud squealing noise. It doesn't make the noise at any other times, I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch because it makes the noise without it put in. Any ideas what this could be? Also on Wednesday night some gently caress broke my windshield with a sword hilt after a fight. I was forced to fight in self defense, we kicked the poo poo out of him and as I was trying to leave he broke my windshield. Do you guys think its worth it to go to court over this? I paid 145 for the glass itself and my friend is installing it for me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 03:30
|
|
|
Ethox posted:My focus has been making a weird noise lately. Its an 03 svt and when slowly braking to a stop, or braking to a stop with the clutch in and the car in first gear it will make a pretty loud squealing noise. It doesn't make the noise at any other times, I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch because it makes the noise without it put in. Any ideas what this could be? If the squeal is in the front when you brake the first answer would be brake pads, have you checked that already? Also, you got into a ...sword fight? Was he wearing a dragon shirt?
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 03:46
|
|
|
I've noticed that sometimes in 5th gear ('05 Subaru Legacy GT), at around 3000 RPM, when I give it some decent gas and the turbo kicks in my RPM will go way up -- it seems like the clutch is slipping. This doesn't always happen, though. How far is the clutch from being hosed? The car only has 50k kilometers on it, but this has been my first manual car. I don't think I've been TOO hard on it, but I don't know for sure.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 08:47
|
|
|
Sabotaged posted:Dead clutch Will 225/60R15 tires fit 15x7" rims properly? As in not looking retarded and not handling worse than 205/65s? EDIT: Well never mind I guess. I did some more googling and answered my own question. I was able to find plenty of people with up to 255s on a 15x7 and it looked fine. I figure the slightly increased contact patch will help a little, and a local tire shop has a nice sale on some tires they don't make in 205. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Nov 8, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 11:24
|
|
|
So my friend got a new 09 Civic SI. His first manual car. When he's giving it he's still pretty sloppy on his shifts and it has bounced off the rev limiter a few times. My question is; when he takes a trip up to the limiter a little red light flashes on and then goes off. I heard from another tech friend that this light means the ECU records this as an over rev. He said after a certain amount of times the ECU will turn on the MIL. It puts out a code that the engine has been over-revved and apparently voids your powertrain warrenty. I was just doing some searching to back this up and was not able to find anything. Has anybody else heard of anything like this?
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 18:02
|
|
|
[quote]Ok I have a 99 Ford Escort LX with the 2.0 SPI engine. I recently replaced the water pump and timing belt and accessory belt. Not there seems to be a wine coming from the engine. Could this be from the brand new non re-manufactured water pump? I haven't driven it and only ran it for a couple minutes as there is a leak coming from one of the coolant hoses and I need to replace the clamp I was using and maybe the hose as well.[quote] [quote]It's a droning. It's not high pitched like a belt slipping. More of a lower tone whirring/droning sound.[quote] Ok to bring this back up becasue it wasn't answered, but also to add on to it. I am having that ahrdest time getting this to work. Before i started the part that i figureded that was going tobe the hardest was going to be dealing with the timing belt. But this has proved not to be the hard part. It seems like I can't for the life of me i can't get this drat water pump to seal correctly. I have installed it TWICE and it still seems to leak. I am using a RTV sealant. The first time we put it on the water pump and stuck the gasket on it then I ate dinner. then i put the RTV on the engine block and installed the water pump. By this time the RTV ot he water pump was semi hard. This leaked like a sieve. The second time we were more careful. I cleaned both the water pump and the engine with acetone and steel wool. We put a layer of RTV on the water pump then smoothed it out then put the gasket then put RTV on the other side of the water pump then installed it right away. We made sure to lighten the water pump bolts in alternating order. Afterwards it seemed like the hose was just leaking but it seems like it might be more then that as i took he timing belt cover back off and there sees to be some coolant coming from the pump. TL;DR: This Water is going to be the end of me and it wont seal correctly!
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 18:11
|
|
|
Moncrith posted:
You are sure you got all of the old gasket off and got it smooth? It sounds like you used the sealant correctly (ie on both sides). Did you tighten bolts in sequential instead of a star pattern the first go around? Maybe you actually managed to warp the pump- did you tighten to the recommended ft. lbs? A couple thoughts. One is that some new water pumps will leak through the weep hole and it's a normal part of the break in process- it would say in the info that came with the pump if that is (hopefully) the case. Also, your best bet may be to get everything clean then get a very bright light in there a take a look. Though this probably isn't the case, a left field cause was I had a pump once that came with the wrong screws/bolts and the water was coming out a stripped hole. e: your post didn't say, did you add sealer or teflon to threads, as well? APOLLO OHNO-UDIDNT fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Nov 8, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 18:45
|
|
|
Legitimate posted:You are sure you got all of the old gasket off and got it smooth? It sounds like you used the sealant correctly (ie on both sides). Did you tighten bolts in sequential instead of a star pattern the first go around? Maybe you actually managed to warp the pump- did you tighten to the recommended ft. lbs? No sealer or Teflon on the threads. And yes the first time we didn't tighten them down in the alternating pattern just in no particular order. Also there was some coolant coming from one of the bolts as i could see some coolant underneath one of the bolts on a metal ridge cast on the water pump. The pump didn't come with new bolts using the bolt that were on their previously. So put some RTV on the threads? when i took them out there wasn't anything on the threads and the Haynes manual says nothing about it either. E: and yes we used a torque wrench the second time around. E2: i just grabbed the instructions that came with the water pump and it does mention the "temporary leakage from the weap hole." I didn't know about this. We never let it run long enough to get up to normal operating temperature either. Moncrith fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Nov 8, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 19:01
|
|
|
just saw your replyMoncrith posted:No sealer or Teflon on the threads. And yes the first time we didn't tighten them down in the alternating pattern just in no particular order. E: and yes we used a torque wrench the second time around. so there is a small possibility of a messed up pump- did you really crank them down hard the first go around w/o the torque wrench? quote:So put some RTV on the threads? when i took them out there wasn't anything on the threads and the Haynes manual says nothing about it either. I've always either added liquid teflon or applied teflon tape on threads though I've seen people use a dab of silicone instead quote:E2: i just grabbed the instructions that came with the water pump and it does mention the "temporary leakage from the weap hole." I didn't know about this. We never let it run long enough to get up to normal operating temperature either. interesting- how much water is coming out, is it just pouring or just dripping?
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 19:42
|
|
|
Legitimate posted:just saw your reply I didn't crank down too hard, didn't use a breaker bar, it was pretty tight, but not cranked down like a gorilla. The bolts don't thread into the water pump, the thread into the block. so if the there isn't threads on the water pump itself would silicone be pointless? There isn't lots of coolant coming out, its more of a drip. However there is more coming out of the coolant hose so it is hard to tell. The worm clamp there we used doesn't seem to want to tighten up. I'm going to replace the worm clamp and check the hose to make sure it isn't chewed up. How long should the break in be for the pump? it didn't say, it just said that some leakage will occur until it is "lapped" in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 19:51
|
|
|
Moncrith posted:The bolts don't thread into the water pump, the thread into the block. so if the there isn't threads on the water pump itself would silicone be pointless? Well I've not worked specifically on an escort, but generally the teflon would go on the heater hose threads and a little sealant on the bolts that go into coolant passages quote:There isn't lots of coolant coming out, its more of a drip. How long should the break in be for the pump? it didn't say, it just said that some leakage will occur until it is "lapped" in. as far as I know, this leakage should be minimal to nothing if it is troublesome it is something else or a defective pump
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 20:18
|
|
|
Legitimate posted:If the squeal is in the front when you brake the first answer would be brake pads, have you checked that already? Yea Ive been trying to check the brake pads, I haven't been able to get my hands on the proper Allen key though, every one I own doesn't fit. From the looks of it with just the wheel off the brakes don't look that worn down. I'll replace them as see if that fixes the problem. Haha no it was a fist fight, but he pick up a weapon off his wall, which was just the hilt of a sword, then after the fight he broke my windshield with it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 20:40
|
|
|
Tim706 posted:So my friend got a new 09 Civic SI. His first manual car. When he's giving it he's still pretty sloppy on his shifts and it has bounced off the rev limiter a few times. My question is; when he takes a trip up to the limiter a little red light flashes on and then goes off. I heard from another tech friend that this light means the ECU records this as an over rev. He said after a certain amount of times the ECU will turn on the MIL. It puts out a code that the engine has been over-revved and apparently voids your powertrain warrenty. Sounds like bullshit to me. The rev limiter exists so that the engine does not over rev. The rev limiter is engineered to still be within a safe range for the engine. Honda engines are usually designed to have the piss revved out of them, and bouncing off the rev limiter now and again isn't going to hurt them in any substantive way. Don't go cruising around bouncing off the limiter, though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 21:45
|
|
|
Ethox posted:My focus has been making a weird noise lately. Its an 03 svt and when slowly braking to a stop, or braking to a stop with the clutch in and the car in first gear it will make a pretty loud squealing noise. It doesn't make the noise at any other times, I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch because it makes the noise without it put in. Any ideas what this could be? I know it's not your question, but windshields aren't one of those things you want a friend to do. Even the most competent glass installers has problems with sealing, so regardless of your friend's abilities, you need to make sure you two have an understanding that he's got to agree to re-seal it if it doesn't go in well, or you've got to be willing to accept wind noise for the rest of the windshield's life. Or you could just get a shop to do it, then you have recourse that won't strain a friendship.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 23:05
|
|
|
Guinness posted:Sounds like bullshit to me. The rev limiter exists so that the engine does not over rev. The rev limiter is engineered to still be within a safe range for the engine. Honda engines are usually designed to have the piss revved out of them, and bouncing off the rev limiter now and again isn't going to hurt them in any substantive way. Don't go cruising around bouncing off the limiter, though. The red LED is just the stock shift light, right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2008 23:42
|
|
|
 Click here for the full 1987x1039 image. Is this good? Ok for the real question. The car is a '92 Toyota Corolla. I just want to make sure Im going to be ok with trying to find a junkyard manifold that will hold up or should I just bite the bullet and order a new one? Obviously going to get a new gasket when I replace it, I've just always been a little leery of junk yard parts. Oh and by the way Seafoam is an excellent way to find exhaust leaks. Imagine my surprise when the smoke started choking me instead of coming out the tail pipe.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 01:59
|
|
|
maxallen posted:I know it's not your question, but windshields aren't one of those things you want a friend to do. Even the most competent glass installers has problems with sealing, so regardless of your friend's abilities, you need to make sure you two have an understanding that he's got to agree to re-seal it if it doesn't go in well, or you've got to be willing to accept wind noise for the rest of the windshield's life. Or you could just get a shop to do it, then you have recourse that won't strain a friendship. Thanks for the advice but he works for the company I bought the glass from. They do mobile installations from their trucks so he will simply be coming to my house to do a quick install for me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 05:42
|
|
|
Simple question: I live in Carlsbad, which is in North County (San Diego area of California). Has anybody had any really good experience with car audio installations in this area? I'm looking to get some stuff put in my car (sub, amp, speakers, tweeters) (volvo 240) and I don't want to get hosed over with shoddy workmanship.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 09:00
|
|
|
Ok, quick dumb question. I'm going to be rotating my tires today on my Saturn Ion. They're non directional tires in which case the manufacturer recommends doing the bring the rears from the opposite sides to the front and send the fronts to the back. I've read on some other sites that although that is recommended, swapping the fronts with the rears is just fine. When my dad helped me rotate my tires on my old concorde a few times we just did front to back, though I can't recall if those were directional tires or not. Just wanted to see what people thought about the cross pattern before I went out to rotate them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 17:17
|
|
|
rockcity posted:Ok, quick dumb question. I'm going to be rotating my tires today on my Saturn Ion. They're non directional tires in which case the manufacturer recommends doing the bring the rears from the opposite sides to the front and send the fronts to the back. I've read on some other sites that although that is recommended, swapping the fronts with the rears is just fine. When my dad helped me rotate my tires on my old concorde a few times we just did front to back, though I can't recall if those were directional tires or not. Just wanted to see what people thought about the cross pattern before I went out to rotate them. Doing the cross like the manual reccomends will help the tires last. If you dont the tires go back to the same position every other time you rotate. You may be fine doing that but some cars will start to get some edge wear from sitting on the same side all the time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 18:08
|
|
|
I have had a Check engine light on and off for the past few weeks. My NY State inspection just expired. I don't want to pay for both an inspection and a check engine diagnosis. Is there a lot of overlap between a NY State inspection and a check engine diag such that if I just get an inspection, I'll likely discover the cause of the check engine light? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 19:36
|
|
|
No, they will instantly fail it for the check engine light being on. Get it scanned and fix it before you get a NYSI or you'll be out  for no reason.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 19:41
|
|
|
KhyrosFinalCut posted:I have had a Check engine light on and off for the past few weeks. My NY State inspection just expired. I don't want to pay for both an inspection and a check engine diagnosis. You shouldn't be paying for a code pulling. Autozone and most independent shops will pull codes for free, only dealer($tealer)ships will charge for codes. This assumes your car is OBD-II (post-'95-97) otherwise it may take special equipment.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 19:49
|
|
|
maxallen posted:You shouldn't be paying for a code pulling. Autozone and most independent shops will pull codes for free, only dealer($tealer)ships will charge for codes. This assumes your car is OBD-II (post-'95-97) otherwise it may take special equipment. In most cases, a small shop will happily pull a code and send you on your way, whereas a dealer will pull a code, search applicable TSBs, diagnose the cause and source of the fault and tell you what you need to fix along with a full estimate. They will also stand behind the diagnosis, which should save you from any guesswork or needlessly replacing several items before you actually resolve the problem. Which is a better value is your own choice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 21:52
|
|
|
Ethox posted:Yea Ive been trying to check the brake pads, I haven't been able to get my hands on the proper Allen key though, every one I own doesn't fit. From the looks of it with just the wheel off the brakes don't look that worn down. I'll replace them as see if that fixes the problem. Don't replace the pads if there is nothing wrong with them. Check to see if the squeal is from the little metal tab, could be a sound from vibration, could be a rotor that needs to be turned or replaced.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 23:22
|
|
|
is it possible to install cruice control into an 02 lancer es that does not have cruise control? if so, how much would it cost for everything? could a total newb do it?
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2008 23:38
|
|
|
Someone stole the faceplate to my stereo. All I know is the stereo is a Panasonic, I have no idea the model number. Will any ol' Panasonic faceplate work, or will I need a specific model?
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2008 03:10
|
|
|
phootnote posted:is it possible to install cruice control into an 02 lancer es that does not have cruise control? if so, how much would it cost for everything? could a total newb do it? Yes it is possible to install cruise control into your non-cruise control vehicle. There are companies that manufacture aftermarket kits (and there are factory kits for some as well). The cost for a parts kit would be about $250 for an 02 Lancer, and no, a "total newb" couldn't do it unless you are comfortable with this kind of thing. By the way, the kit is different for a manual versus auto car so make sure you get the right one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2008 03:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 04:08 |
|
|
KhyrosFinalCut posted:I have had a Check engine light on and off for the past few weeks. My NY State inspection just expired. I don't want to pay for both an inspection and a check engine diagnosis. look up how to check the codes for your car. For example, a Dodge Dakota, you hold down the odometer reset button and then put the key in the on position while holding down the button. It does a bunch of stuff and then spits out a few numbers and letters to your odometer gauge. Write down that code and type it in to google. It might lead you in the right direction. Also check that your gas cap is securely closed and give it a few days, it might go away.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2008 04:29
|
|