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I developed some film in that instant coffee developer yesterday: The film comes out very heavily stained, but the end result is not unpleasant. The pictures are very grainy, which I suspect has something to do both with the film (Neopan 1600 @ISO 800) and the fact that the scanner really has to work to pull an image off the darker base. Next time I'll try it with some vitamin C, which apparently helps clear the film a bit.
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Nov 12, 2008 19:10
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VoodooXT posted:Hey, I just realized you post on RangefinderForum. Heh, yeah, do you?
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Nov 12, 2008 19:21
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Reichstag posted:Heh, yeah, do you? I have an account, but I don't post since I haven't bought my rangefinder yet. Maybe in a couple of months when I have more money.
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Nov 12, 2008 22:47
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OK photogoons who are smarter than your average bear, got a question for you. I've been contemplating a return to some level of involvement with film and as such have been flirting with the idea of getting another medium format camera-go biggish or go home, I dare say. I've been looking around a bit but medium format stuff isn't readily available here in Alaska, but today in a pawn shop I found a medium format TLR that intruiged me, partly becuase it's MF and partly because I had never seen or heard of one quite like it. At first I thought it was a Rollei, but on closer exam the brand on the front is "ROLLOP". Rollop? Rollo P? Google was not my friend when it came time to do some research, Yahoo was kinda indifferent and MSN search told me to buy a DSLR or shut up. Let me describe the camera and see if it rings any bells. It's made in Germany, TLR, no metering that I could see, f3.5 75mm lens, couldn't find a model name or number. Overall, it's in OKish shape, definitely needs the foam on the film door redone, I couldn't figure out where the stupid shutter release was but the lever advanced forward and cocked on the reverse just fine. The exposure controls were on the lens, I was afraid I'd break something if I horsed around with it so I didn't check those either. They were asking $100 ($99.95) but I have no intention of paying anywhere near that for it, given that it needs foam at the very least and may be a paperweight at worst. For double that kind of cash I could buy a Kiev, or that's a thrid of the way to an older Bronica. Thoughts anyone? OK for the love of all that is good and holy-at lunch today I googled and yahooed and msn'd Rollop and found nothing-and after posting this I google Rollop and find all kinds of hits! What the heck? Are there 2 googles? Apparently I have google's evil twin brother at the office. Gnomad fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Nov 13, 2008 |
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Nov 13, 2008 04:03
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For $100 you could do far better. Since it needs new seals, and is a 'forgotten' brand, I wouldn't pay more than $30. Make sure to test the different shutter speeds, make sure none of them are sticking, and seem to be going for the right amount of time. To be honest, most any TLR in working (no leaks, fungus, haze) condition will give you great results. No meter? No problem, either go Sunny 16, buy a cheap used external meter, or meter with another camera! Some samples from rollops: http://flickr.com/search/?q=rollop
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Nov 13, 2008 07:08
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Back when I worked in a darkroom and had a key to the office for the weekends, I spent a lot of time with funky old cameras, Argus, an old Praktiflex, Kodak Retina, and got pretty good at the sunny 16 system. I got so good at it that when my "real" camera, A Sears (Mamaiya) 1000MXB SLR, would kill the battery, usually because it was cold outside, I wouldn't bother getting a new one. Anyway, since it hardly seems to be a proper photo thread without pictures, here is that Sears SLR, the first camera I bought back in 1976. Ordered it through the catalog, cost me $189 or so, worked the summer to buy it, and film, and paper, and d76, and dektol, etc, etc.  Of course it still works.
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Nov 13, 2008 08:54
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Hey guys. Remember how I had that gorgeous 6x7 I was in love with? Bad news. The little tabs you'd use to unwind and extract the film broke. I still have them, but I don't think it'd very easy to re-attach them. I think I might just be buying an entirely new Pentax 6x7, since this one is falling apart, but the real problem is that there's a spool of film stuck in there I really want to get developed b I simply can't get it out without the spools in place!! Any sorts of information on repairing it or getting the film out (120) would be greatly appreciated!!
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Nov 13, 2008 20:12
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:Hey guys. Remember how I had that gorgeous 6x7 I was in love with? Bad news. The little tabs you'd use to unwind and extract the film broke. I still have them, but I don't think it'd very easy to re-attach them. I think I might just be buying an entirely new Pentax 6x7, since this one is falling apart, but the real problem is that there's a spool of film stuck in there I really want to get developed b I simply can't get it out without the spools in place!! Either way, if you can get the door open, you can pull the film out in a changing bag and finish off the winding by hand.
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Nov 13, 2008 20:40
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Is an Omega B-22 a good enlarger too start with? A local craigslist post had this enlarger for $40 but when I visited it was missing the condensers and the lamp head so I passed but now she has found them! She also has two additional lens a 70mm and i am not sure of the other. Have I found a good deal and just jump on it while I can? She also has some basic supplies a trays and stuff nothing else too special but I am just starting out.
Tigertron fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Nov 13, 2008 |
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Nov 13, 2008 22:35
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Any complete, functioning enlarger (plus two extra lenses and other goodies) for $40 sounds like a steal to me. Does it come with a timer?
ryangs fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Nov 14, 2008 |
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Nov 14, 2008 17:12
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no timer and I will use the money I save to get some chemicals and a Patterson tank. I am really on a low budget so I may hold off on the timer and use a metronome till I find anouther deal. Any reccommendations for chemicals? I am printing on ilford rc multigrade paper and for film it's my understanding I can do away with the stop bath?
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Nov 14, 2008 18:57
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You can always replace stop with a water bath but it is slower. Stop is pretty cheap and you can dilute it with more water than the bottle says to, I would just get some. Going straight from Developer to Fix (or not leaving it in a water bath long enough) will just exhaust your fixer really fast.
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Nov 14, 2008 21:47
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It is my personal belief that using a water stop bath gets you a pinch more shadow detail. I just pour the water in and let it sit for like a half an hour (or more). Developer burns out faster in highlights and continues to develop the shadows until all the developer soaked into the film is depleted. Don't agitate at all while stoping this way.
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Nov 15, 2008 02:47
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I found some rolls of original Velvia!  I went into the local Sharp photo center on a whim tonight and even the man behind the counter was shocked to find a few rolls of original Velvia amongt the Velvia 100 rolls in the freezer. They don't sell because nobody around here knows what it is or to ask for it. I'm going back on payday to grab the last few. Like little phials of gold. I can't wait to shoot it. I also want to pick up some good true B&W film while I'm there. What's the preferred types? I didn't think to jot down the names of what they had or even take a photo of the selection, sorry. I was happy with the Kodak 400 B&W colour process film but I wanna try "real" B&W film for fun.
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Nov 15, 2008 08:28
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They still make Velvia 50, though, I just ordered some in from Fuji the other day.
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Nov 15, 2008 09:39
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Luxmore posted:They still make Velvia 50, though, I just ordered some in from Fuji the other day. Supposedly they both give pretty much identical results. It was simply a shock to find original Velvia, it's hard to find that poo poo even on eBay. Now to find some Kodachrome... 
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Nov 15, 2008 10:42
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pwn posted:I also want to pick up some good true B&W film while I'm there. What's the preferred types? I didn't think to jot down the names of what they had or even take a photo of the selection, sorry. I was happy with the Kodak 400 B&W colour process film but I wanna try "real" B&W film for fun. Ilford make a great selection of black and white films. Pan F 50 ISO FP4 125 ISO HP5 400 ISO Delta 100 Professional 100 ISO Delta 400 Professional 400 ISO Delta 3200 Professional 3200 ISO Those are the only ones I can remember off the top of my head but I highly recommend them.
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Nov 15, 2008 12:22
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pwn posted:I also want to pick up some good true B&W film while I'm there. What's the preferred types? I didn't think to jot down the names of what they had or even take a photo of the selection, sorry. I was happy with the Kodak 400 B&W colour process film but I wanna try "real" B&W film for fun. Tri-X is the answer to all of your dreams, and can be purchased rebranded as Arista Premium 400 for cheap.
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Nov 15, 2008 13:17
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pwn posted:I also want to pick up some good true B&W film while I'm there. What's the preferred types? I didn't think to jot down the names of what they had or even take a photo of the selection, sorry. I was happy with the Kodak 400 B&W colour process film but I wanna try "real" B&W film for fun. I am a huge fan of Efke. http://flickr.com/search/?q=efke&w=81882815%40N00 http://www.freestylephoto.biz/efke.php You'll probably never find it in a photo store, so you'll have to order it from Freestyle. While you're waiting for it to arrive, pick up some HP5+. It's another old-school film, very much like Tri-X 400.
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Nov 15, 2008 18:28
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ryangs posted:I am a huge fan of Efke.  It is pretty sweet, the ISO 25 variety is essentially grainless... plus it got me into using water as a stop bath, which is a good idea all around.
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Nov 17, 2008 01:08
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So I'm thinking of getting into medium format more seriously. I love me some big negatives and consequently less visible grain, but the Holga just ain't cuttin' it no more. My first impulse is to go for a Mamiya C33 I've seen sitting on craigslist for a while as it seems affordable, sturdy and the lenses are coated. In the long run I'd probably like something like a Mamiya 6, but that's not going to be a financial reality in the short term. Am I crazy? Will I simply be a slave to the tri-pod? Is my belief that 6x6 is the one true MF aspect ratio irrational and flawed? Should I save a bit of money by looking harder and find a Yashica TLR instead? I would appreciate any opinions you may have.
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Nov 17, 2008 03:14
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The mamiya is great. Go for it.
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Nov 17, 2008 03:19
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So, I've been learning to wet print in my school's darkroom for the past few weeks, and am finally getting to be decent at it. However, today I drymatted prints for the first time, and it will be the end of me. I cannot for the life of me get even sides, straight lines and keep the matte board clean.dunno posted:Am I crazy? Will I simply be a slave to the tri-pod? Is my belief that 6x6 is the one true MF aspect ratio irrational and flawed? Should I save a bit of money by looking harder and find a Yashica TLR instead?
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Nov 17, 2008 04:55
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I just got back my Kodachrome and I can't really say I'm happy with the results. One roll came back VERY magenta. It's new film, kept in the fridge. I shot it outside. The other roll came back with a note "we recieved your film damaged".... A piece of masking tape was on the film. The space under the tape was not developed, so I assume it was there before the film went into the processor. It was mid-roll and spanned a frame and a half with no showing of a splice. So wtf? Has anyone else had experiences with Kodachrome recently? I spend a large part of my job scanning old Kodachrome and it's all WONDERFUL... That's why I started shooting it. But, knowing only Dwayne's does it, if this is what I'm to expect out of modern service I think I'll pass.
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Nov 17, 2008 05:01
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Celluloid posted:I just got back my Kodachrome and I can't really say I'm happy with the results. 
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Nov 17, 2008 05:53
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dunno posted:So I'm thinking of getting into medium format more seriously. I love me some big negatives and consequently less visible grain, but the Holga just ain't cuttin' it no more. I did nearly the same thing. I bought a Yashica 124G, loved it, and then bought a Mamiya RZ67 Pro II for studio and landscape work. Yet to do any landscapes wit the Mamiya yet, but I actually enjoy using it for studio work. I still use the Yashica for street stuff, so it's not like it doesn't get used at all, they're just different cameras.
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Nov 17, 2008 12:25
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My first proper experiences with medium format: I took my dad's old Lubitel 2 to a couple of student protests earlier this year. It's rugged as poo poo, and I even dropped it on concrete a few times, not even any superficial damage. I just got my first roll of Ilford 100 back.  I also had a go with Ilford 200 SFX, the infrared one.  This was taken through all the red filters I could find, sandwiched together. Not really any noticable difference, though I think the plant life looks a touch whiter than in reality. Next time I'll wait for a brighter day. If I want to move onto colour, what should I go for? I was tempted by a stack of Ektachrome in the fridge at the photo place, but should I hunt down some of this much-lauded Velvia? duck pond fucked around with this message at 10:53 on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Nov 17, 2008 21:14
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I was talking to a friend yesterday and apparently his grandmother had a Leica. He sent me a picture of a similar camera and it was one of the MX Series. Now, I've been looking for a rangefinder for a month or two so I seriously yelled at him to ask his grandma whether she still has it. Turns out some time ago, she had a huge cleanout and she probably doesn't have the Leica anymore.  Oh well, time to go looking again. I've had my eyes set on a Canonet, but surprisingly I have read little of them in this thread, doesn't anyone have it?
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Nov 18, 2008 23:59
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The canonets are solid entry level RFs, but they are all (iirc) fully automatic, which isn't what a lot of us are looking for in our cameras.
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Nov 19, 2008 01:19
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I'd love a recommendation of a good high speed, contrasty film for concerts. I'm thinking of pulling out my old Elan 7e body and running some film through it again. For color I used to shoot Fuji NPZ 800 pulled to 640 to make sure my blacks were true and the colors were nice and rich. I can't remember what my favorite black and white was though... I believe I used T-Max and Ilford 3200 interchangeably. and looking back at prints I can't remember which yielded which prints. This is what I'm looking for and I'm pretty sure this was with the Ilford but I can't find my negative to double check. 
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Nov 19, 2008 01:48
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Reichstag posted:The canonets are solid entry level RFs, but they are all (iirc) fully automatic, which isn't what a lot of us are looking for in our cameras. Depends on the model. Canonet QL17 GIII for instance is shutter priority.
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Nov 19, 2008 01:58
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Well, if you're so inclined you can shoot Tri-X at 1200, maybe 1600 if you develop in Diafine. There are drawbacks however; In a compensating developer you don't have control over contrast, so some shots might not come out as you intend them. What it does do is garauntee printable negs from most of your shots.
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Nov 19, 2008 01:59
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Mello Clello posted:My first proper experiences with medium format: Clayton Bigsby posted:Depends on the model. Canonet QL17 GIII for instance is shutter priority.
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Nov 19, 2008 06:37
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MMD3 posted:I'd love a recommendation of a good high speed, contrasty film for concerts. I'm thinking of pulling out my old Elan 7e body and running some film through it again. For color I used to shoot Fuji NPZ 800 pulled to 640 to make sure my blacks were true and the colors were nice and rich. I can't remember what my favorite black and white was though... I believe I used T-Max and Ilford 3200 interchangeably. and looking back at prints I can't remember which yielded which prints. I usually end up using tri-x @ 1600 or more recently HP5 developed in diafine (it works out to something like 800-1000) for concert stuff. Its not as tonally rich as what you posted, but I've yet to really fiddle with the high speed tmax or delta. Kodak Tri-X @ 1600:  Ilford HP5+ as developed by Diafine: 
dunno fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Nov 19, 2008 09:03
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MMD3 posted:I'd love a recommendation of a good high speed, contrasty film for concerts. I'm thinking of pulling out my old Elan 7e body and running some film through it again. For color I used to shoot Fuji NPZ 800 pulled to 640 to make sure my blacks were true and the colors were nice and rich. I can't remember what my favorite black and white was though... I believe I used T-Max and Ilford 3200 interchangeably. and looking back at prints I can't remember which yielded which prints. Have you considered Fuji Neopan 1600? That is a very contrasty film and I like the grain qualities. Easily my favorite high speed film.
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Nov 19, 2008 17:26
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killabyte posted:Have you considered Fuji Neopan 1600? That is a very contrasty film and I like the grain qualities. Easily my favorite high speed film. I've never tried it, looking at some results though on GIS I like it's characteristics. I'll probably have to pick up a roll or two each of this, the Ilford Delta 3200, and T-Max 3200 and try them all in the same setting at a show. I don't have the luxury of a darkroom at my apartment right now, is the Neopan something that my local labs should be able to develop for me?
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Nov 19, 2008 20:40
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Most places in Portland send it off to someone else, even ProPhoto who I generally like. Turn around time is only a couple days though. Someone recommended Blue Moon to me: http://www.bluemooncamera.com/ Their info page doesn't say anything about sending it off, but I haven't been there myself yet to take a look. I've got a roll of 220 color that I'm about to kill off that I'll need someone to develop for me, thought I'd give them a try. For black and white I gave up looking and just got a scanner and a towel to stuff under my bathroom door (dark enough to load the reels) and do it myself now. I don't print much though, I doubt my scanning quality would compare very favorably to a pro place.
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Nov 19, 2008 22:36
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dunno posted:Is my belief that 6x6 is the one true MF aspect ratio irrational and flawed? Absolutely not, 6x4.5 and 6x7 are abominations before the lord. Those Mamiya's are great Reichstag posted:So, I've been learning to wet print in my school's darkroom for the past few weeks, and am finally getting to be decent at it. However, today I drymatted prints for the first time, and it will be the end of me. I cannot for the life of me get even sides, straight lines and keep the matte board clean. Why are you drymatting at all? I never understood the point. Mats are supposed to be disposable protectors for your prints, semi-permanently attached a print to one seems to defeat the purpose. Learn to cut window matts.
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Nov 19, 2008 22:43
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jollygrinch posted:Most places in Portland send it off to someone else, even ProPhoto who I generally like. Turn around time is only a couple days though. Someone recommended Blue Moon to me: http://www.bluemooncamera.com/ I don't mind sending it off for developing, and I actually have a pretty decent scanner that I bought earlier this year to scan some old family slides and prints. I used to take my film to quickstop photo because they would scan everything for a reasonable rate and had quick turn-around time but it'll be nice to not have to worry about that added cost. The scanner I got is an Epson Perfection v700 I haven't done much negative scanning yet but it seems to yield pretty great results with a bit of tweaking. Scanners seem to have improved a tremendous amount in performance since I was doing negative scanning in college 5 years ago or so. I've heard good things about Blue Moon but that's quite a trek for me and pro-stop is a short detour on my work commute from SE to Beaverton. Thanks for the info, time to pick up some film and find a show at a good venue to shoot.
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Nov 19, 2008 23:08
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Luxmore posted:Got some in my store What developer do you use with Efke? I always used D-76 1:1 (for everything) at school and have never experimented with anything else, but now that I need to buy my own chemicals, it's time. ryangs fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Nov 19, 2008 23:19
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