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My friend's E36 rear shock towers just got slightly ripped because he didn't have the reinforcement plates for the RSMs(he bought the car without them a week ago, and the plan was to add them ASAP... The car was fine at the time of the purchase). What is he in store for? I'm guessing $500 per side to fix, which is fine by him since he got the car cheap.
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Nov 21, 2008 05:31
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Just sharing some e36 knowledge I learned today. For the past couple months I would get this shudder/vibration from the center rear of my car under full throttle at speeds less than 40mph. Only full throttle, and only when I wasn't going too fast. I was under my car recently and noticed the Flex Disc that connects the drive shaft to the transmission is all cracked and worn out. This is a 1994 with 110k miles. Looked up the symptoms with a "Flex Disc" qualifier and it turns out it is the source of the problem.
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Nov 21, 2008 05:53
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Pissingintowind posted:My friend's E36 rear shock towers just got slightly ripped because he didn't have the reinforcement plates for the RSMs(he bought the car without them a week ago, and the plan was to add them ASAP... The car was fine at the time of the purchase). What is he in store for? I'm guessing $500 per side to fix, which is fine by him since he got the car cheap. I'm not sure about the overall price, but yeah its going to suck. Tell him to get the subframe mounts and front diff bolt checked too, those also like to break and empty your bank account
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Nov 21, 2008 08:29
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Im NOT Gay! posted:I'm not sure about the overall price, but yeah its going to suck. Tell him to get the subframe mounts and front diff bolt checked too, those also like to break and empty your bank account Thanks, we'll definitly have a look at those. I'll throw up some pictures for you guys too. Amusingly, the parts to be replaced cost 10 dollars each. It's the welding labor that's a bitch and not something we can do ourselves. On another topic, some of the Black Friday sales on BF.c seem decent. I'm going to pick up a Stewart water pump, and I'm hoping Ireland Engineering radiators go on sale for my 100k overhaul. I'm also considering getting in on 10% off all Bilstein stuff (how is Bilstein for a street car?) and maybe one of the UUC lightweight flywheel/clutch bundles, which include a bunch of free poo poo. Anyone have any experience with the UUC stuff? I'd like the improvement that comes with a lightwheel flywheel, but again, this is a street car and I don't want chatter.
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Nov 21, 2008 18:23
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Pissingintowind posted:On another topic, some of the Black Friday sales on BF.c seem decent. Who is selling the Stewart pumps and for how much? I'm definitely going to be picking up some of the UUC Swaybarbarians. Bilsteins are great for street cars. I have been running Bilstein Sports and some H&R sport springs and while it's firm, it isn't bone rattling. Personally, it could be a little stiffer and it would still be reasonable. My experience with UUC has been nothing but positive, essentially all of the real mods I have done to my E36 have come from UUC and I couldn't be happier with the quality. I have been looking into a UUC Stage-2 flywheel lately too, and from what I've read, chatter isn't that big of a problem when using the sprung M5 clutch that they supply, and it is easy to live with day to day. Those that have had chatter problems have cleared them up with the suggested tranny fluid mix. I can't remember it off the top of my head, but it is listed on UUC's website.
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Nov 21, 2008 19:01
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The water pumps are $160... I don't remember who is selling them. Looks like this is gonna be a pricey BF. That DS3 SS kit looks mighty tempting too when you get a free DSSR. You can always sell the shift knob you need to buy for that deal. All the deals are in the vendor special forum. Do you know anything about the STage 1 flywheel (lol stage1 2fast2furious).
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Nov 21, 2008 19:40
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Pissingintowind posted:The water pumps are $160... I don't remember who is selling them. Crap, those water pumps are being sold by ECS. That guy is a huge dick and I have never bought anything from him just for that reason. I might just say screw it and buy a Stewart for $186 from a local small BMW parts seller. I don't have the DS3, but I do have a DSSR + M3 shifter + ZHP knob in my 325is. It's the perfect height, and I didn't spend more than $220 for the whole shebang including all new bushings. I bought the DSSR new for $100 shipped of bf.c and the M3 lever used on ebay for like $10. If I had to do it again I'd probably just opt for the DS3, but I was strapped for cash at the time. The DSSR is a really nice piece. I'm pretty sure the stage 1 flywheel is the same as the stage 2 just 11.5lbs instead of 8.5lbs. I really doubt you'll notice an extra 3 pounds. They both use the same sprung 240mm M5 clutch, but the stage 2 kit has the M5 pressure plate and the stage 1 kit uses a stock M3 pressure plate. Unless you're going for more than 250hp at the wheels I don't think you need the extra clamping force.
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Nov 21, 2008 20:06
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So I bought the fan, radiator, and expansion tank (might as well do it so I don't have to pull apart the cooling system a fourth time in a month) along with a few odds and ends to complete the job from rmeuropean. Their website quoted me out 3 day shipping and I placed my order on Monday. I got an email Tuesday telling me that it had shipped and giving me a tracking number. I check the tracking number and the ETA is.....Monday. I am absolutely loving working on my daily driver that requires nearly every part for common maintenance and repair items to be special ordered and take at least a week to arrive from all 3 of the major BMW parts places. It's a sad loving day when I can go into an Autozone and pickup a waterpump or an oil pump that is in stock, on the shelf, for a '67 Mustang but I have to special order a loving thermostat or anything else for a '98 BMW. I'm seriously considering selling this Ultimate Driving Machine once I have it back up and running and just getting an Accord.
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Nov 21, 2008 20:57
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We always have cooling system parts in stock at the dealership. 
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Nov 21, 2008 21:11
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Crap, those water pumps are being sold by ECS. That guy is a huge dick and I have never bought anything from him just for that reason. I might just say screw it and buy a Stewart for $186 from a local small BMW parts seller. Eh, I'll give ECS a try since I never dealth with them before. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm still a little confused about the 3 flywheel options... Gonna try to find some reviews.
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Nov 21, 2008 21:35
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The Stage 1 was the original UUC lightweight flywheel at 11.5lbs. Lighter than most other aftermarket flywheels. The Stage 2 Aluminum is an improvement upon the original and lowered to 8.5lbs, which is the most lightweight flywheel on the market. If you want every last ounce of performance and have pockets deep enough, this is what you buy. The Stage 2 Steel is a 17 pound unit meant to keep turbos spooled up. Really, that's all there is to it, but UUC has a whole shitload of technical literature on their website for lightweight flywheels. They all require 240mm sprung clutches (ie. the M5 clutch, or any other number of aftermarket units), the pressure plate can either be from the M5 or M3 depending on your application, the throwout bearing for all E36s is the same even though they have different part numbers.
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Nov 21, 2008 22:07
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:The Stage 1 was the original UUC lightweight flywheel at 11.5lbs. Lighter than most other aftermarket flywheels. Thanks for explaining. edit: How much were your Bilstein sports? Do the H&R springs lower your car by much? The roads here suck... Would the Bilsteins work with stock springs? I would be willing to pay the extra $125 for the stage 2 over the stage 1 (it gets me a lighter flywheel, and the entire M5 clutch kit rather than just the pressure plate), but I would not like it to rattle. The reviews I've found are all over the place. Any goon have a LTW FW? Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Nov 22, 2008 |
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Nov 22, 2008 01:39
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Took the wife's Mini out in the snow today, its amazing how well it handles in this weather. A lot better than my E36. Makes me feel like a rally driver every time I drive it in this weather. I need salt in my trunk since I can't afford winter tires.
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Nov 22, 2008 03:44
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Pissingintowind posted:Thanks for explaining. No idea how much the Bilsteins were since I bought them with the BavAuto springs (direct copies of H&R Sports) for $639 last November. You would need the Bilstein HDs if you wanted to use the stock springs, the Sport Bilsteins are meant to be used with shorter springs. A lot of the rattle complaints are probably due to how beat up a gear box is, if there are looser tolerances or things have been worn down then there is a better chance that it will rattle. But a lot of people have had good luck using (I think) Redline 75W90 gear oil + Redline D4 ATF to get the rattle to go away.
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Nov 22, 2008 04:38
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Okay guys, brake questions. I toasted my front pads at my track day, and just put on some cheap duralast pads, but they loving suck rear end. I want to put on Hawk HPS'. However, when I toasted my pads, I also happened to put 3 little grooves into one of my rotors. Now my question is, is it safe to a. put a different pad on the fronts than the rears and b. is it fine if I run pads with the grooves in the rotor? ALSO I am trying to plan out what I want for suspension. My current plans are Eibach springs & sways, Bilstein sports, and replacing the front control arm bushings with the M3 ones to add some castor. Also replacing the rear trailing arm bushings. I have heard that the Bilstein sports are too stiff, and that I may want to look into Koni adjustables. Any advice?
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Nov 22, 2008 15:26
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:No idea how much the Bilsteins were since I bought them with the BavAuto springs (direct copies of H&R Sports) for $639 last November. You would need the Bilstein HDs if you wanted to use the stock springs, the Sport Bilsteins are meant to be used with shorter springs. I'm pretty sure the sports can be used with stock springs, correct me if Im wrong though. They're 'engineered' for shorter springs but you can use them with stock springs as well, is my understanding.
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Nov 22, 2008 18:42
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don't bother with the offset m3 lcabs, they're meant to be used with the appropriate 95 m3 lca's. Just get some 96+ centered m3 lcabs or pflex poly lcabs if you're a masochist. I sat in a z3 coupe last weekend and I fit *perfectly* so I'm offically on the hunt for a m coupe
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Nov 22, 2008 19:32
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BraveUlysses posted:don't bother with the offset m3 lcabs, they're meant to be used with the appropriate 95 m3 lca's. Just get some 96+ centered m3 lcabs or pflex poly lcabs if you're a masochist. My car is an E30 so the m3 lcabs just add castor as far as I know.
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Nov 22, 2008 20:10
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Pissingintowind posted:Thanks, we'll definitly have a look at those. I'll throw up some pictures for you guys too. Amusingly, the parts to be replaced cost 10 dollars each. It's the welding labor that's a bitch and not something we can do ourselves. what are they selling over on BF.c? I haven't been there since I got banned for offering to skullfuck Kevlar, plus the only advice you ever get are hurrr needs clears and a drop or use the broken search function. Ok, now that im done with that rant, I wish I could buy myself upgrades for xmas, but i need to buy replacement parts instead  edit: BraveUlysses posted:don't bother with the offset m3 lcabs, they're meant to be used with the appropriate 95 m3 lca's. Just get some 96+ centered m3 lcabs or pflex poly lcabs if you're a masochist. Kind of a random question but this reminded me of it, does anyone know if M/Z Coupe seats will fit in an E36? I like the style of those a lot, plus it would give me an excuse to not have to have more than 1 other person in my car
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Nov 22, 2008 21:21
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Im NOT Gay! posted:what are they selling over on BF.c? I haven't been there since I got banned for offering to skullfuck Kevlar, plus the only advice you ever get are hurrr needs clears and a drop or use the broken search function. Haha. I can tell you what I'm getting in on (this is going to be a pricey day): EAC - Stewart water pump for $160 (down from $195) UUC - slotted (hurr rice) rotors with Hawk Ceramic pads (free UUC SS brake lines) UUC - stage 2 (hurr rice again) steel LTW flywheel/clutch kit (free SS clutch line, tranny fluid, and pressure bleeder) UUC - Evo3 SSK with some ricer shift knob that I'm going to sell (free DSSR) None of the sales are spectacular, but since I'm going to need most of these eventually, I might as well get in on it.
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Nov 23, 2008 02:21
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Pissingintowind posted:Haha. I can tell you what I'm getting in on (this is going to be a pricey day): Ah not bad. I'm hoping bimmerworld or rogue decides to have a sale on the parts i want once i get the work i need done. Although the good part of having a suspension that 1 step away from making GBS threads the bed is at least now i have an excuse to buy a good billstien setup
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Nov 23, 2008 04:36
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Im NOT Gay! posted:Ah not bad. I'm hoping bimmerworld or rogue decides to have a sale on the parts i want once i get the work i need done. Although the good part of having a suspension that 1 step away from making GBS threads the bed is at least now i have an excuse to buy a good billstien setup EAC is having a sale - 10%-20% off Bilsteins day of Black Friday. However, this looks like it is more expensive than the current group buy that Zygmunt motors is having. I was quoted $617 for Bilstein sports on a 1999 M3.
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Nov 23, 2008 04:52
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Pissingintowind posted:EAC is having a sale - 10%-20% off Bilsteins day of Black Friday. Might want to check out BavAuto part number SK M332 016 BIL. It's their Bilstein Sports and BavAuto springs for $769. It's really the only good deal that BavAuto has.
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Nov 23, 2008 05:09
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:It's really the only good deal that BavAuto has. Why does everyone say BavAuto's prices are so bad? Their prices are some of the best I can find on most stuff except little things like like fuel filters and junk.
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Nov 23, 2008 08:36
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Hey guys I have a question for you. My brother bought a used '01 330i two springs ago. Last winter however the battery died 3 or 4 times over the course of the winter. Last winter I told him I bet there was something wrong with his battery, but according to my brother he went and asked the guys at the BMW dealership near here and they said BMW's have trouble keeping a charge in the cold, and there wouldn't be much use in getting a new battery. I thought this was very silly but my brother just shrugged it off. However the battery has died again yesterday and it only started getting cold two or three weeks ago up here in CT. Do you guys have issues with your battery during the winter, or does my brother have a hosed up battery like I suspect.
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Nov 23, 2008 21:22
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Jovial Cow posted:Last winter however the battery died 3 or 4 times over the course of the winter. ... Do you guys have issues with your battery during the winter, or does my brother have a hosed up battery like I suspect. Yes, all batteries have trouble during the winter because they're powered by chemistry. Chemistry, as you might know, doesn't work when it's cold. Get a new battery.
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Nov 23, 2008 22:07
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frozenphil posted:I'm seriously considering selling this Ultimate Driving Machine once I have it back up and running and just getting an Accord. But if you do that how is Rory going to stay in business?
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Nov 23, 2008 23:06
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Jovial Cow posted:Hey guys I have a question for you. My brother bought a used '01 330i two springs ago. Last winter however the battery died 3 or 4 times over the course of the winter. Last winter I told him I bet there was something wrong with his battery, but according to my brother he went and asked the guys at the BMW dealership near here and they said BMW's have trouble keeping a charge in the cold, and there wouldn't be much use in getting a new battery. I thought this was very silly but my brother just shrugged it off. However the battery has died again yesterday and it only started getting cold two or three weeks ago up here in CT. Do you guys have issues with your battery during the winter, or does my brother have a hosed up battery like I suspect.
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Nov 24, 2008 00:35
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Well my E36 325i smacked a curb real hard last night. Things right now on the immediate replacement list: new rim, new tire(s), new control arm (from what I can tell). Questions: Where should I look for a rim or suspension parts? Right now craigslist isn't really helping me that much, and to be honest I'm hesitant to buy things of ebay motors. I never used eBay so I dunno how well that would go. Does anyone reccomend websites? I suppose a pick and pull is a decent way to go, but the closest one is 45 minutes away. And the last time I went to the european lot, they had 2 E36's total with nothing of use to me. All I can tell from a look see was that the control arm is bent, but I suppose I should be replacing other things like a ball joint or something. I found a pelicanparts article that explains how to switch these things out. How hard is it to do? I have a bigass jack and jackstands, so I can get under there, I just want to know how much work I'd be putting into it. EDIT: Right Front wheel/assemply by the way. Homie S fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Nov 24, 2008 |
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Nov 24, 2008 23:15
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Homie S posted:Where should I look for a rim or suspension parts? Junkyard for the wheel, or just fine a new and better looking set on Bimmerforums or craigslist or whatever. As for the suspension bits: if I were you, I'd also be concerned with your sway bar and links, your strut and strut tower, in addition to the control arm. When you replace the control arm, you'll be replacing both ball joints. I'd be surprised if your strut made it out of the hit unharmed, too. Do a serious inspection of the area: all points where the suspension attaches to that corner. What put you into the curb?
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Nov 24, 2008 23:26
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Sterndotstern posted:Junkyard for the wheel, or just fine a new and better looking set on Bimmerforums or craigslist or whatever. A box full of what looked like appliance parts. Made a lane change and couldn't see it until I got halfway through. I should have just hit it head on, instead I swerved to miss it. Still clipped it, lost control, put into the curb. From what I can tell the sway bar seems to be alright, along with other parts, I didn't hit the curb with that much speed. I want to trailer it to a friend's house where he has a lift and I can see much better what is going on. My other problem is that I'm unemployed, and with little money this is going to be difficult. I also might need the car soon to make a drive to take up a job. So yea. I feel like an idiot for probably not making the right call on how to avoid loving up my car.
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Nov 25, 2008 00:05
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multiprotocol posted:But if you do that how is Rory going to stay in business? Heh. I'm sure he'll get by somehow. Besides, I've been using a dude over on 4th and 41st. He's a one man machine that has decent prices and does great work. He replaced my bearings for me in the rear for like $300 after Rory quoted me out like $1100. He also re-soldered my brake light housing connection for free so my brake light would stop throwing a code and not working.
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Nov 25, 2008 00:05
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Well, after examining for various off the shelf tunes for cammed non-vanos engines (and finding that none exist), then looking at ECU piggy backs, then looking at stand alones, I've finally decided to go with MegaSquirt. There is a guy on eBay selling PCBs that allow you to use the stock M50NV harness, buying an MS-2 V3 board and all the bits with BIN on eBay should come to around $200 with the Live cashback. It also helps that I'm bored and need a winter project. I just bought a BMW 402 DME with a Panther chip (  ) and a stock 403 DME, which have the same pinout as the 402s which is all I need to butcher to make the MS-II plug and play (well, almost, with the other guy's eBay board). Did I mention I got both DMEs and the chip for $40 shipped? One stock 402 DME usually goes for $80 on eBay. God I love the bf.c marketplace.So the plan is to get the MS-II up and running this winter on my stock engine, then adding the mods and adjusting the tuning later on down the road. One good thing about this is I can change the crank, injectors, etc. all incrementally and not have to worry about finding someone to tune it and shelling out even more money. Oh, and I replaced the rubber trim around the door handles tonight, simple as pie and looks 100x better.
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Nov 25, 2008 01:26
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frozenphil posted:Heh. I'm sure he'll get by somehow. Besides, I've been using a dude over on 4th and 41st. He's a one man machine that has decent prices and does great work. He replaced my bearings for me in the rear for like $300 after Rory quoted me out like $1100. He also re-soldered my brake light housing connection for free so my brake light would stop throwing a code and not working. Ah yes, Stephen Wittkop. That man is a national loving treasure. He fixed my shitbird crossthreaded sparkplug (thanks, previous owner!) for $300 after Rory quoted me TWENTY FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS to pull the head and do it. Incidentally, we need to get the band back together and go to lunch. Preferably before you dispose of the M3.
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Nov 25, 2008 02:46
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Oh boy. Now that winter's here, I've been getting ready to take some time off and get my e30 325iX exhaust replaced and new timing belt on. Took it for a drive though, and it seems like it has more problems. -With the vents on, I get a distinct smell of exhaust coming into the cabin. -Near the rear I get the smell of gas. Probably a leak somewhere in the filler tube or gas tank. A costly fix but I don't get much of a choice here. -Slight squeal when the brakes aren't applied. The guy I bought it from did the brakes before selling it so I'm assuming something is loose in there and it's an easy fix. My biggest problem is the hosed up idle. Just sitting there, the idle speed seems to be ok (if a little low, once warmed up it approaches 600 or so) but clutching in from driving, or dropping it to neutral causes the revs to drop way below idle, then surge back up, then down, etc until it levels off. If i'm lucky it'll bog the engine, if i'm unlucky it just stalls completely. This is one thing I'm clueless on, and I'd like to have somewhat of an idea what the hell is happening before I take it it to get repaired.
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Nov 25, 2008 03:14
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Crustashio posted:Oh boy. Now that winter's here, I've been getting ready to take some time off and get my e30 325iX exhaust replaced and new timing belt on. Took it for a drive though, and it seems like it has more problems. For the idle, have you cleaned out the idle control valve? 2 bolts, a can of parts cleaner (I think I actually used brake cleaner) and it was good as new!
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Nov 25, 2008 03:18
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multiprotocol posted:Ah yes, Stephen Wittkop. That man is a national loving treasure. He fixed my shitbird crossthreaded sparkplug (thanks, previous owner!) for $300 after Rory quoted me TWENTY FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS to pull the head and do it. Yeah, a friend used to work with him when they worked at a shop that specialized in old British cars so I kinda got the hook up. Don't tell anyone, but I do pretty much all of the work on my car anyway. I just like messing with miklm because he seems to have an issue with it.  Also, I've never had an M3 but I am down for lunch sometime after I get the radiator replaced this week/weekend.
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Nov 25, 2008 17:07
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Crustashio posted:Idle issues Ive got an M42 engine, but I had similar idle issues. Check out your vaccuum hoses. I had a bad one going from the fuel regulator that was cracked. It only caused a problem once it got cold out.
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Nov 25, 2008 19:32
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I've had idle issues before due to a vacuum leak (one of the gaskets in the intake was pretty cracked) and also because one of my injectors was terribly gunked up. Once the engine was warmed up the injector worked alright, but for a while it idled from start on 5 cylinders  (it did pass a smog test though with that injector  )
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Nov 25, 2008 19:53
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two_beer_bishes posted:For the idle, have you cleaned out the idle control valve? 2 bolts, a can of parts cleaner (I think I actually used brake cleaner) and it was good as new! Hmm, I'll have to check that out. I need to get my hands on an e30 repair manual, since digging guides up on google doesn't usually end well. Is there a preferred version, ie Haynes or Bentley? Dyscrasia posted:Ive got an M42 engine, but I had similar idle issues. Check out your vaccuum hoses. I had a bad one going from the fuel regulator that was cracked. It only caused a problem once it got cold out. Hoses looked ok when I bought it (no obvious cracking) but I can give it a more thorough inspection in case I missed something. I have the suspicion it's hose related since the idle seems to get wonkier as it gets colder out.
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Nov 25, 2008 23:08
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