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Caveat: I am not at all familiar with CAD software. I am trying to create a very nice, enduring piece of furniture for my fraternity. It will probably be overbuilt, but I'm looking specifically for any software (free) that you could recommend to me to help me to design this item, and as a bonus, would total the materials and give me a shopping list. If it makes any difference the item is an altar, which takes the form of like a free-standing, wider lectern with a few things on the top and in the back. I'm not very good at describing the idea, but when I sketch it on paper it's never to any sort of scale, so some software help would be greatly appreciated.
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Nov 13, 2008 19:29
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Oplem posted:I recently got an old camera from the 60's in mint condition, except the bag. Aside from some pulled seams the leather is showing its age. It isn't beyond repair, and there's no cracks but I'd like to bring some life back to it because it's certainly dry. I looked around online and there's conflicting answers to what you should use. I don't know how useful this is, but I use mink oil on my leather bike jackets to keep them fresh. Maybe try it out on a small patch and see if it makes a difference?
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Nov 13, 2008 21:42
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I just bough an old loveseat from Goodwill. It's super comfy but it smells like piss (we found a dog toy under one of the cushions, so that explains it). How do you get smells out of furniture? Googling recommends sprinkling baking soda over everything, leaving it for two days, and then vaccuuming it, or spraying it with a vinegar/water mix and waiting for the vinegar smell to go away. We can't let it air out outside because it's Vermont. The fabric is also really gross and old and I want to reupholster it. I've never done that before, and the only things I can find online are "get lots of fabric and staples" and requests for tutorials, but I can't find an actual tutorial. Does anyone have a good resource for that? And if I'm going to reupholster it, should I de-smellify it with the old fabric still on first?
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Nov 16, 2008 01:00
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My stone oil burner just developed a micro-crack in the bowl and now water drips onto the candle. Is there any epoxy, glue or something else that can seal the crack, and is water, oil and heat resistant?
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Nov 16, 2008 21:07
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Zaftig posted:I just bough an old loveseat from Goodwill. It's super comfy but it smells like piss (we found a dog toy under one of the cushions, so that explains it). How do you get smells out of furniture? Googling recommends sprinkling baking soda over everything, leaving it for two days, and then vaccuuming it, or spraying it with a vinegar/water mix and waiting for the vinegar smell to go away. We can't let it air out outside because it's Vermont. I had a couch that used to smell like pee, and I de-stinked it by using a steam vacuum cleaner and then spraying an entire bottle of antibacterial Febreze onto it. It smelled pretty acceptable after that.
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Nov 16, 2008 21:53
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Anyone know where I could possibly get a DC electric igniter? I've been looking around, and it seems they're only available to industrial clients. I want to use it for something similar to this http://www.evosapien.com/robosapien-hack/marcus/html/flameosapien_v2.html He links a company that sells them, but they don't seem to sell to the public.
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Nov 19, 2008 00:42
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Question: how can I clean a 50% wool 50% polyester hat, it looks a bit like this (I don't know what kind of hat this is and waffleimages is being a bitch so here is something similar) http://www.hats.com/is-bin/INTERSHO...eadCrumbSearch= I don't want to gently caress it up because it was my father's so rather than throw it in the wash I thought I'd ask someone. The band inside smells so cleaning the entire hat is not really needed if there is some way to just clean that part.
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Nov 19, 2008 03:39
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Nubile Hillock posted:Anyone know where I could possibly get a DC electric igniter?
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Nov 19, 2008 05:18
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rio posted:Question: how can I clean a 50% wool 50% polyester hat Have you tried Febreezing it? Washing wool (even a blend) is a hassle and a half. Make sure the hat's not dry-clean only (not sure if it'll have a tag or not). If you must, hand wash it in cold water with a delicate detergent (like woolite), if any. Try just water first, and only add detergent if you must. Use a soft brush to clean. Make sure the brim is made of something that won't get waterlogged before submerging it. Don't rub the wool bits together or it will felt. The polyester stuff is dead easy to clean, so just treat it like wool and it should do ok. Towel off lightly and air dry. I would agree that cleaning the band as you suggested is the best bet. I would probably just dampen the area with a washcloth (cold water), and use a soft brush. Polyester does have a mean way of holding odors, so maybe the band is more poly than wool. Still, be careful!
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Nov 19, 2008 16:58
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I never thought of using bbq igniters, thanks! Another question - could an aquarium pump (safely) pump flammable liquids, such as gasoline? I'm assuming it is going to be submerged at all times, so I don't see vapor being an issue.
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Nov 19, 2008 23:32
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I'm pretty sure that it cannot. Water is a lot easier on plastics and rubbers and junk than other liquids are.
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Nov 20, 2008 10:24
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Nubile Hillock posted:I never thought of using bbq igniters, thanks! No. Aquarium pumps have a variety of parts and seals usually made from rubber or polyethylene. Neither of these materials will safely withstand petrol or other fuels/flmable liquids like kerosene or turps etc, for long. Both will be slowly dissolved.
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Nov 20, 2008 13:59
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Nubile Hillock posted:I never thought of using bbq igniters, thanks! I'm not sure your BBQ ignitor will have enough spark to ignite your flamethrower. You'll probably need a propane pilot light. As for pumps, why not snaffle an in-tank fuel pump from a junkyard? You'd need to get one from a fairly large engine, though, and even that might not be enough for a decent amount of range. Add a 12-volt car battery to your backpack and you're ready to immolate yourself and your neighbors! Also, you'll need a bypass valve unless you want to have a really weak stream when you pull the trigger, waiting for it to build up pressure. Maybe add a one-way valve, a pressurized bypass, and a small pressure tank? How much pressure can a fuel pump actually put out? poo poo, I think I know what this weekend's project will be. Sapper fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Nov 20, 2008 |
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Nov 20, 2008 15:44
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The project is on a much smaller scale. I'm thinking having a small diameter pipe, some sort of blowing mechanism at one end and the fuel getting pumped in at some point down the pipe, the bbq lighter at the opening. I want to keep this as small as possible. The pump/igniter would both be microprocessor controlled. I'm trying to go for more of a fireball effect, and not so much a flamethrower. The car pump idea sounds good though, any idea how much those go for? And I might have to go to one of those yards where you remove things yourself, so where abouts are those located? thanks for the input so far!
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Nov 20, 2008 19:41
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Nubile Hillock posted:The project is on a much smaller scale. I'm thinking having a small diameter pipe, some sort of blowing mechanism at one end and the fuel getting pumped in at some point down the pipe, the bbq lighter at the opening. I want to keep this as small as possible. The pump/igniter would both be microprocessor controlled. I'm trying to go for more of a fireball effect, and not so much a flamethrower. The in-tank models are generally in the fuel tank, bolted in from above. You can sometimes get to them without dropping the gas tank, Volkswagons, for example, have an access hatch. Ford Probes, on the other hand, don't. Protip: Smoke a cigarette while you're pulling it out, you'll look cooler.  (yes, I've done that...and then dropped the lit cigarette into the fuel tank. No worries)
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Nov 20, 2008 21:29
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Does anybody have any idea how to change this light bulb? I don't want to break anything here. It's a double-ended (J type) halogen bulb in a lamp. The bulb rotates in place. I don't know if I have to push in one end, and lift other the other out or what. One end does seem to yield a tiny bit when I push in.  Here's what the bulb looks like on its own:  Also cue the 'changing a light bulb jokes.'
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Nov 21, 2008 00:07
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You're right. Those kinds of lightbulbs are really scary and I felt the same way when I replaced one for my mom. Its a lot easier to put in a new one than it is to remove the old, so at least you've got that going for ya.
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Nov 21, 2008 00:10
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Phlegmbot posted:Also cue the 'changing a light bulb jokes.' According to The Internet you push one side in and remove it. Wear gloves so you don't get oil on the bulb.
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Nov 21, 2008 00:33
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Got it out. Thanks guys.
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Nov 21, 2008 01:35
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Like Blowupologist said, when you put the new one in make sure you either wear cotton gloves or use tissues so you don't touch the bulb with your fingers. The oil in your skin will create heat spots on the globe that will cause it to burn out faster.
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Nov 21, 2008 03:33
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Sapper - care to enlighten me on the pressurized bypass/one way valves thing? Anything available for small diameter pipes? Any links or info would be awesome.
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Nov 22, 2008 03:00
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I've only seen large diameter T&P valves in stores, but I've used equipment with smaller ones. Google could probably help, I'm too lazy right now. Edited: I don't feel like getting a bullshit ban, this poo poo costs money Sapper fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 22, 2008 |
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Nov 22, 2008 05:22
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Nubile Hillock, I would suggest you check out https://www.mcmaster.com for any parts that might work.
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Nov 22, 2008 16:20
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Hopefully there is an answer to my question and problem. Here it goes; I have a quarter inch thick, 1 foot by 1 foot piece of plastic that I need to cut a square hole out of (kind of like a frame). Is it possible to do this on my own? What sort of tools would I need? Would prefer a non-electric tool to buy and because I live in an apartment so I don't want to make to much noise. Is there any information I am missing that I need to give you guys? I'm not sure on what type of plastic it is or if that even matters but I can try to find out. Any help would be very much appreciated, I need to get this done for a class project here soon and the other routes i've gone to (my instructor who hasnt been able to help) for help have led me to dead ends. 
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Nov 25, 2008 19:29
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I said come in! posted:Hopefully there is an answer to my question and problem. Here it goes; Generally you would mark out your square, drill a hole and drop a jigsaw through to follow the lines. Without a powertool, I think a coping saw - detach the blade, put it through the hole a re-atach. Straight lines will be hard, and all this without knowing the plastic type - this is important as really brittle plastic will be more difficult. edit: 1/4 inch thick holy crap!
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Nov 25, 2008 19:44
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Cakefool posted:Generally you would mark out your square, drill a hole and drop a jigsaw through to follow the lines. Without a powertool, I think a coping saw - detach the blade, put it through the hole a re-atach. Straight lines will be hard, and all this without knowing the plastic type - this is important as really brittle plastic will be more difficult. Okay so my next goal is to find out the type of plastic then. I know its made by these guys; http://www.chemcastacrylics.com/
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Nov 25, 2008 19:51
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I said come in! posted:Okay so my next goal is to find out the type of plastic then. I know its made by these guys; http://www.chemcastacrylics.com/ Just by the name I would assume it's acrylic plastic, which is generally very brittle and a pain in the rear end to machine. What kind of class are you talking about? Are you at a university that has an engineering college? Most universities have a machine shop (or several) with a friendly machinist who would be willing to help you. In general this kind of work is much easier to do on a mill than by hand, especially with brittle plastics like acrylic. Plus it'll even be straight.
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Nov 25, 2008 21:15
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Blowupologist posted:Just by the name I would assume it's acrylic plastic, which is generally very brittle and a pain in the rear end to machine. I goto a technical school, i'm studying mechanical design & drafting. I had been trying to get ahold of the machine shop instructor at my school for a week and in the last hour I just managed to track him down finally. So it looks like i'm good. He told me to come by tomorrow with my stuff and one of his students can help me. So it looks like i'm outta the woods on this. Thank you for the help too! 
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Nov 25, 2008 21:24
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This is more of a "break it fast" question, but does anyone know of a good way to saw through sticks of RAM? I am looking to make assorted sizes of tiles from them...
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Nov 29, 2008 04:31
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hockeyfrog posted:This is more of a "break it fast" question, but does anyone know of a good way to saw through sticks of RAM? I am looking to make assorted sizes of tiles from them... Hacksaw works great. Bandsaw if you can get one. Use something with >24tpi; 32tpi worked great.
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Nov 29, 2008 04:54
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I'm not entirely sure where I should even ask this question, but I'll give it a go. What has the reflective properties of a CD, can be used to coat a dress, and can be bought in bulk? A friend is making a costume meant to go with another costume which is basically scale mail composed of quartered CDs.
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Nov 30, 2008 06:49
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OldMidgetWillow posted:I'm not entirely sure where I should even ask this question, but I'll give it a go. Replicating the reflective properties of cd's is going to be incredibly hard/time consuming/expensive, compared to buying bulk CDR's Sorry, reread that, you want to make a coat look like but not be covered in, cd-mail. You might luck out at a fabric store and find a translucent material you can layer, but I can't think of anything you could put on a piece of clothing. Would it be feasible to replicate the coat in a new material?
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Nov 30, 2008 10:56
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Got an Inglis washing machine that has its drain stuck open. It'll pour and pour water constantly into the drum but it won't ever fill up. Water delivery is not an issue from either hot or cold. I can switch to all the different fill levels, and all the different wash cycles and nothing changes. I've left it unplugged for a few minutes, then tried it again in case something was stuck. All the washing machine does is piss away water when turned on. Any advice as for what part could be malfunctioning? Edit: I repositioned the drainage hose to have a more upward curve leading out of the back of the washer. All is well now. ProjektorBoy fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Dec 1, 2008 |
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Dec 1, 2008 02:47
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OldMidgetWillow posted:I'm not entirely sure where I should even ask this question, but I'll give it a go. Metallized polyester sheeting, also known as reflective mylar, would probably work for what you want to do. You know those silver mylar balloons? That's the material. A 27" wide by 12" long roll of 0.005" thick material is $18.05, and you can get it from https://www.mcmaster.com (part number 7538T12). Alternatively there are plenty of other locations where the material can be purchased.
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Dec 1, 2008 03:02
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I live in a top floor flat in an old edwardian house and im having problems with damp around my windows. It shows underneath the bathroom window which is an original metal fitting with glass panes and in my bedroom. The bathroom isnt such a bother but it is particulary bad in my bedroom which is fitted with a new pvc window (which you would think would solve the problem). Theres mold all around the window frame, its damp and its letting in cold air and as a result im sleeping in bed with two jumpers. Im a student tenant and have of course contacted my Landlord but he is relunctant to do anything in a hurry. In the meantime Is there anything I can buy/do for relatively cheap to make it a bit less damp and cold in here? Im not a D.I.Y expert but I'm good at reading instructions and willing to give anything a go. Eye_Pennies fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Dec 3, 2008 |
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Dec 3, 2008 02:24
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Is it caulked where the window frame meets the casing inside the room?
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Dec 3, 2008 06:27
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Eye_Pennies posted:I live in a top floor flat in an old edwardian house and im having problems with damp around my windows. It shows underneath the bathroom window which is an original metal fitting with glass panes and in my bedroom. Where do you think the water is coming from? Getting that away from wherever it is gathering around your window is a good place to start. Even if you have to ghetto up some plastic and duct tape. Our apartment complex has a lot of ghetto water-guards because everyone's AC unit drips onto everyone else's poo poo all the time.
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Dec 3, 2008 07:37
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Yes it is caulked but the caulk is peeling away all around the edge of the window fitting, but especially at the top. Similarly I think the seal is damaged on one of the windows so when its locked shut its still not shut completely, where there should be some sort of foam/rubber/acrylic seal it feels like its worn away When you rest your hand over it you can feel a draft. I guess the water is condensation? The mold is pretty hefty and appears to be pooling at the side joins where the frame meets the wall. Im in the UK so we don't have any air conditioning units. Here's some pictures of the damage, don't know if these will be any help    Thanks for all the comments/advice so far. Edit: Just picked up a bottle of mildew remover and some selant from the hardware shop, dunno if this will do any good. Eye_Pennies fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Dec 3, 2008 |
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Dec 3, 2008 12:37
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Eye_Pennies posted:
You don't have air conditioning in the UK?
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Dec 3, 2008 19:19
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Solomon Grundy posted:You don't have air conditioning in the UK? Cooling down is an infrequent need on this lovely, cold wet lump of mud.
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Dec 3, 2008 19:23
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