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Crustashio posted:Hmm, I'll have to check that out. I need to get my hands on an e30 repair manual, since digging guides up on google doesn't usually end well. Bentley. Always. http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964 Xenoid fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Nov 25, 2008 |
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Nov 25, 2008 23:09
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Xenoid posted:Bentley. Always. Definitely Bentley. Also grab '101 Performance Projects For Your BMW 3 Series 1982-2000' (http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Projects-1982-2000-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760326959) by Wayne Dempsey, which is in itself a helpful little companion book for E30/36's. Moxie Omen fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Nov 26, 2008 |
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Nov 26, 2008 01:34
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Jorsh posted:Definitely Bentley. Also grab '101 Performance Projects For Your BMW 3 Series 1982-2000' (http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Projects-1982-2000-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760326959) by Wayne Dempsey, which is in itself a helpful little companion book for E30/36's. Aren't the majority of those articles from pelicanparts? I seem to remember reading somewhere that you could find most of them online for free. Either way, thanks for the link to the factory repair manual. I'll try and track down a bentley as well and see if I can diagnose anything on the weekend when I have daylight. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Nov 26, 2008 |
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Nov 26, 2008 02:18
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Crustashio posted:Aren't the majority of those articles from pelicanparts? I seem to remember reading somewhere that you could find most of them online for free. You can definitely find it somewhere on the internet. I actually had it until a few weeks ago but I was short on hard drive space and don't own an E30 :P
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Nov 26, 2008 03:26
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Crustashio posted:Aren't the majority of those articles from pelicanparts? I seem to remember reading somewhere that you could find most of them online for free. Yeah, it's a pretty nicely put together, straight forward book though and not terribly expensive so it's nice to have a hard copy laying around.
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Nov 26, 2008 03:49
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Oh and I'd appreciate any word of an E39 Bentley manual online. I can't really afford to buy one so I just search for articles of how to do a specific job but it'd be nice to have the book handy and the TIS isn't fun to use.
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Nov 26, 2008 04:02
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Noob question: I'm home from college this week and driving my dad's E93 and the tire pressure warning is constantly on. My dad claims it always happens when the temperature drops and I was just wondering if it was worth getting the pressure checked or is this common amongst E90s?
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Nov 26, 2008 10:25
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Your dad is lazy. Tell him to adjust the pressures.
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Nov 26, 2008 12:51
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Mad Dragon posted:Your dad is lazy. Tell him to adjust the pressures. Pretty much - it's the ideal gas law. As temperature goes down, pressure will drop, so if he is teetering on the edge of low pressure, a temp drop would reduce that pressure and put him over the threshold.
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Nov 26, 2008 18:55
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Xenoid posted:Oh and I'd appreciate any word of an E39 Bentley manual online. I can't really afford to buy one so I just search for articles of how to do a specific job but it'd be nice to have the book handy and the TIS isn't fun to use.
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Nov 26, 2008 21:22
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Brock Landers posted:PM me. I have a copy of the E39 Bentley I no longer need that I'd be willing to part with for a reasonable price. I don't have PM. My AIM/MSN contact is in my profile though.
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Nov 26, 2008 21:25
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My family's in the process of deciding whether to lease/buy either a BMW 328i or a Lexus IS250. My mom feels that a BMW is a better option to lease since she thinks BMW's tend to get problems after more than a few years (so after a leasing period and she prefers BMW anyway) whereas a Lexus tends to be better built with less maintenance required in the long run. So, we're leaning towards leasing a car rather than buying so which would be better?
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Nov 27, 2008 01:01
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I changed all the power steering hoses in my '91 325i today, but the high pressure pump -> rack hose is a smidge different from the old one and the way I have it on now, it rubs against the steering knuckle > Anyone run into any problem like this? Am I doing it wrong or am I just going to need to adjust the bend at the end or something? Click here for the full 640x480 image.  Click here for the full 640x480 image.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. Moxie Omen fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Nov 27, 2008 |
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Nov 27, 2008 03:32
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I was a little hesitant to take a vice to this $90 part I had just gotten but with that and a little hand bending a few degrees away from the steering knuckle -- problem solved! Put in a new fuel pump today as well -- I fully enjoyed pulling the old pump out and finding out the old strainer was still at the bottom of the fuel tank. Yaaaaaay.
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Nov 27, 2008 23:12
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loving hell! Last night I had the fuse to the interior light, central lock, and a few other random things burn out, as well as a brake light circuit fail (which I got fixed last loving week). I love this car...
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Nov 30, 2008 21:16
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How feasible is it to daily drive and own an E36 BMW? I was thinking along the lines of a 325, 328, or even M3? I'm on a pretty low budget but would most likely be able to afford the car outright. I am a student but do work full time. Don't make a lot of money but being rent free has its benefits. Of course most people, including myself. Think of BMWs as expensive as hell to maintain. Including parts and labor. I'm not too mechanically savvy. I know the M3 parts are dealer only but for the other ones you can get knock offs that are just as good? What kind of routine maintenance would I be looking at? I find the E36 BMWs to be surprisingly affordable. How do they hold up? (I know. Take care of it and it will take care of you). Anything to particularly look for or avoid? Other options were something along the lines of an Integra GSR. Which is a lot more outright in comparison. Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Dec 1, 2008 |
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Dec 1, 2008 11:01
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Christoff posted:How feasible is it to daily drive and own an E36 BMW? I was thinking along the lines of a 325, 328, or even M3? I'm on a pretty low budget but would most likely be able to afford the car outright. I am a student but do work full time. Don't make a lot of money but being rent free has its benefits. Of course most people, including myself. Think of BMWs as expensive as hell to maintain. Including parts and labor. I'm not too mechanically savvy. I know the M3 parts are dealer only but for the other ones you can get knock offs that are just as good? What kind of routine maintenance would I be looking at? I find the E36 BMWs to be surprisingly affordable. How do they hold up? (I know. Take care of it and it will take care of you). Anything to particularly look for or avoid? I've spent roughly $3k in parts alone for my '98 328i over the last 3 years. Not a single one of those parts were for anything other than common failure items on E36 BMWs. If you can do the work yourself and can keep at least a grand squirreled away for maintenance, you'll be fine. If you can't do the work yourself and/or can't afford around $1k a year in maintenance, look elsewhere. I'd also look elsewhere if the BMW will be your only car and you can't go a few days without a vehicle.
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Dec 1, 2008 16:28
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frozenphil posted:I've spent roughly $3k in parts alone for my '98 328i over the last 3 years. Not a single one of those parts were for anything other than common failure items on E36 BMWs. If you can do the work yourself and can keep at least a grand squirreled away for maintenance, you'll be fine. If you can't do the work yourself and/or can't afford around $1k a year in maintenance, look elsewhere. I'd also look elsewhere if the BMW will be your only car and you can't go a few days without a vehicle. I've spent about that in just a year on my '97, but then again my entire cooling system did go out and I did stupidly have the dealer replace it, so a good chunk of that is dealer labor (probably $800). Also, I spend $66 per oil change because I use the good stuff (Castrol Syntec at $6.99 a quart, x seven quarts plus oil and air filters) and I drive so much that I need an oil change about every two months, even going 6000 miles between oil changes. They're good cars, and will likely last awhile even if you don't keep them up, but to keep them operating really good you have to be willing to spend extra money. It's not exactly a Honda.
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Dec 1, 2008 16:38
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frozenphil posted:I've spent roughly $3k in parts alone for my '98 328i over the last 3 years. Not a single one of those parts were for anything other than common failure items on E36 BMWs. If you can do the work yourself and can keep at least a grand squirreled away for maintenance, you'll be fine. If you can't do the work yourself and/or can't afford around $1k a year in maintenance, look elsewhere. I'd also look elsewhere if the BMW will be your only car and you can't go a few days without a vehicle. Thanks for the response. I actually meant to say E34. I can get the work done for a reduced rate as I have some mechanic friends. But that's about it. I can also get parts at wholesale if it makes a difference since my dad is a wholesale dealer. But I'm guessing the "knock offs" are much cheaper anyways? I can go a few days without a vehicle. (See: Dad has lots of cars). Any major differences in the E34 or E36 reliability wise aside from age? Granted, most the E34s have well over 100k miles. Although I have seen a lot at my dads work that ran flawlessly nearing 200k.
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Dec 1, 2008 16:57
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Christoff posted:Any major differences in the E34 or E36 reliability wise aside from age? Granted, most the E34s have well over 100k miles. Although I have seen a lot at my dads work that ran flawlessly nearing 200k. Honestly, I wouldn't worry about mileage if the car has been maintained properly with all records. There's a guy on bimmerforums with an E36 with over 600,000 miles on what i believe are the original engine and transmission.
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Dec 1, 2008 17:09
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CornHolio posted:Honestly, I wouldn't worry about mileage if the car has been maintained properly with all records. There's a guy on bimmerforums with an E36 with over 600,000 miles on what i believe are the original engine and transmission. For an e34 how much are you looking at for routine maintenance like oil change, plugs, clutch, coolant flush, belts, etc etc. I know for a Japanese car it's about 3x the cost of American. Then a Euro car is about 10x the cost. Parts and maybe labor.
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Dec 1, 2008 17:13
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Christoff posted:For an e34 how much are you looking at for routine maintenance like oil change, plugs, clutch, coolant flush, belts, etc etc. I know for a Japanese car it's about 3x the cost of American. Then a Euro car is about 10x the cost. Parts and maybe labor. Not sure about the others, but a local German-specific car shop quoted me $1000 for a new clutch on my E36. The 'super clutch kit' (parts only) is $400 at Pelican Parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_Tclutc_pg1.htm#item0
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Dec 1, 2008 17:24
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The key to owning old German cars? Having multiple, so that you're not completely stranded  That's part of the reason why my family had 5 cars before I moved out (granted one was a garage queen, but still).That said, I wouldn't mind an E34 right now. One of those was what I drove around a LOT in high school before I got my E30. E34s are still very, very good daily drivers, and if you stay up on the preventative maintenance and buy a good used example it'll last forever. BMWs are cars that you do NOT skimp on the maintenance of - staying on top of the problems before they arise is a key to avoiding even *bigger* shop bills.
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Dec 1, 2008 19:22
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Xenoid posted:Bentley. Always. also, the Bentley manual is like twice as thick as the Haynes E30 manual. Completeness rocks. Definitely worth the $50 for anybody interested in keeping an E30 running.
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Dec 1, 2008 19:24
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harperdc posted:also, the Bentley manual is like twice as thick as the Haynes E30 manual. Completeness rocks. Definitely worth the $50 for anybody interested in keeping an E30 running. Take note that the E30 Bentley does not contain any info on the M42 (I noticed the m42club.com link). So us E30 318is owners need both the E30 Bentley AND the E36 Bentley.
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Dec 1, 2008 19:38
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I'm looking at buying a used E85 at some point in the next two months. I'm not a car guy by any means, I just like the looks of them and am upgrading from a POS Ford. Are there any possible deal breakers I should know about beforehand? This will be my second car. Thanks.
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Dec 1, 2008 23:14
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http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3022106 E30 325i possibly changing hands between goons in a few weeks here. Seem like a straight deal for both of us? Anything I should be keeping an eye out for here?
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Dec 2, 2008 02:38
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Fart Car '97 posted:http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3022106 Obviously not perfect but all the big things have been taken care of. Shocks, struts, head gasket, valve job, clutch 30k ago, new pads/rotors front/rear, and most cooling system 15k ago. Only concern is no radiator mentioned but everything else makes it seem very mechanically sound and cared for, other than the odd problems listed. I would go for it. All the big ticket work has been done and the car shouldn't need any work for a long time.
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Dec 2, 2008 02:57
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Got my new Flex disc and lever installed today (1994 325i). I can now accelerate without the driveshaft feeling like it is about to explode into a million pieces. My shifter is also super notchy and awesome that I actually sat in my garage for a good 30 seconds or so shifting gears. Question about clutch stops. I have one in my car and it makes driving much more enjoyable, but I've heard from two people that it will destroy your synchros in the long run. Any opinions here? I see more support than dissent online.
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Dec 2, 2008 05:16
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Fart Car '97 posted:http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3022106 BODYWORK Lift the carpert in the boot and check the inner fender panels. Not sure if the vert has the battery in the back but make sure those panels are rust free. Check the seals around the rear lights as these love to leak. If you can lift the passenger side footwell carpet and check for rust, again E30's love to leak around the grommet in the firewall. The dummy plugs under the rear seats love to rust as well. Make sure the rubber bushes are in good shape, the rear diff mount and engine mounts, rear brake lines corrode and fail. That cab looks very clean, but at the age they are now budget for a rolling restoration. They are awesome cars but mine (325iS) is draining the hell out of my finances.
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Dec 2, 2008 05:52
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The gently caress. So last week, I replaced my rear trailing arm on my 2001 330Ci. The old one had been bent when I hit a curb hard, and I finally got my car into alignment and was drivable for the first time in ages. I drove it 1500 miles over Thanksgiving with no problems. So just now, I drive it to the electronics shop, it's working fine, the turn signal flasher is going a bit rapid for a couple seconds, need to check my bulbs. Anyway, I get back to the car, turn it on, start to back up, and... no power steering. None, at all. I check under the hood, what I can see of the belt is turning, and turning off the car I see what seems to be plenty of fluid in the reservoir. I drive it back to work and it didn't kick back on. On a side note, I think the key I'm using has an issue, it sometimes doesn't like to kick the starter when I use it, I think it's not working with the security system, and on another note I tried playing with the wheel to get it to start earlier today (wheel unlocked but engine off). Could that have anything to do with it?
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Dec 2, 2008 18:05
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maxallen posted:On a side note, I think the key I'm using has an issue, it sometimes doesn't like to kick the starter when I use it, I think it's not working with the security system
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Dec 3, 2008 01:41
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I don't have the valet key, but the second key seems to work just fine. As for the power steering, it's still not working. Any ideas what could be causing it- it went out like a light.
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Dec 3, 2008 02:32
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maxallen posted:I don't have the valet key, but the second key seems to work just fine. As for the power steering, it's still not working. Any ideas what could be causing it- it went out like a light. Impeller fell off the pump shaft? Blockage in the line? If you say the belt is spinning the pulley, there is fluid in the reservoir, and there are no leaks in the hoses, that's the best I can come up with.
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Dec 3, 2008 02:47
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For the past, oh I don't know, three or four years (yeah, sorry) the driver's door lock on my '92 525i has been hard to turn. Give it a giggle and the key will turn, but it's unlikely to turn on the first try if you just stick the key in and expect it to go. I spend so much time and money maintaining the rest of it, I just keep forgetting to do something about the lock. Any ideas?
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Dec 3, 2008 03:36
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The Rocket Salad posted:For the past, oh I don't know, three or four years (yeah, sorry) the driver's door lock on my '92 525i has been hard to turn. Give it a giggle and the key will turn, but it's unlikely to turn on the first try if you just stick the key in and expect it to go. My E30 does the same thing sometimes. The locks from the 80's and early 90's BMWs wear out and need to be rebuilt. The dealer has the parts, but I too am too lazy to deal with it. I put my bag in the passenger side so I usually lock and unlock the car from that side anyway.
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Dec 3, 2008 03:55
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Driving on the highway at a constant 60 miles an hour, the steering wheel gradually started to shake back and forth, until it started to make the whole car vibrate. It still steered fine but everything was just vibrating. After a few minutes it gradually went away. What the gently caress?! (e36 m3)
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Dec 3, 2008 15:17
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Anyone have the part number for the stock 4300K Osram or Phillips D2S E46 HID replacement bulb (2001 330i)? I can't seem to find it on realoem, and I think my friend needs some. Also, when one of these goes out, is it usually a bulb or something more serious? I have no experience with HID lights.
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Dec 4, 2008 03:30
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Pissingintowind posted:Anyone have the part number for the stock 4300K Osram or Phillips D2S E46 HID replacement bulb (2001 330i)? I can't seem to find it on realoem, and I think my friend needs some. 63128361007 or 63217160806 Get ready to poo poo your pants when you see the price.
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Dec 4, 2008 05:51
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:63128361007  $232 shipped for both. Lovely.So, before I make him order these, is there anything else I can check? I'm also assuming you have to replace both, even if only one is dead because otherwise the light will not be the same.
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Dec 4, 2008 06:05
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