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Baby Hitler posted:The auto is so mindboggling bad and unsuited to the turbo engines that you should just get an Audi A3. God that thing sucks.
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Dec 12, 2008 22:42
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Bob Sapp Please posted:Man that sucks The front bumper cover on the impreza wrx from 08 on isn't textured, is the same paint job as the rest of the car. The problem is that the scrape is bad enough that it gouged the plastic underneath so i have bits of black plastic showing through the silver paint and white basecoat. Either they will be able to sand it down and just paint the fucker, or I get to add another 200 for a front bumper cover, plus a minimum of 200 to have it painted and colormatched to my brand new loving car. Nothing but savages in this place.
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Dec 12, 2008 22:45
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nm posted:Do they still put that 4 speed in the impreza? It was actually the best automatic you could get in a small car when they introduced it, they just haven't changed it at all since like 1989.
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Dec 13, 2008 00:21
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Baby Hitler posted:The auto is so mindboggling bad and unsuited to the turbo engines that you should just get an Audi A3. Well, the car I get won't be a turbo, so that's less of an issue :P Surely an 09 Impreza auto tranny is better than the auto in my 2002 Mazda Protege 5. ScaryFast fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Dec 13, 2008 |
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Dec 13, 2008 01:31
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TurboLuvah posted:Goddamn, should have made the dealer do all that legwork for you. They can't. I probably could have gotten them to cooperate with Subaru of Nashua to get me temp plates, but even then, I still would have had to go to New Hampshire. They have everything in now, but the fog protectors aren't coming in until Monday, so I am just doing the paperwork in the morning, then picking it up in the evening. I was planning to borrow my mom's car for the weekend anyway for moving back and forth to avoid 160-240 highway miles in the first day. My plan right now is to take back roads to get back to Franklin Monday evening, commute to work in it for the rest of the week, and then on Friday evening, after a holiday party, just drive. Drive, drive drive.
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Dec 13, 2008 01:41
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Just posting to say 1992 Subaru Legacy. Great car.
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Dec 13, 2008 02:29
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littlehulkster posted:It was actually the best automatic you could get in a small car when they introduced it, they just haven't changed it at all since like 1989. Compared with the older units, the newer autos shift smoothly and use better shift logic. They may not differ much internally but it's much more pleasurable. However, I still would not pair it with a turbo model.
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Dec 13, 2008 03:40
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 legacy + my98 wrx motor  = grood Was supposed to be done this weeekend, but the TD05h I got had a cracked exhaust housing so need to find another turbo.
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Dec 13, 2008 03:44
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CharlesM posted:Compared with the older units, the newer autos shift smoothly and use better shift logic. They may not differ much internally but it's much more pleasurable. However, I still would not pair it with a turbo model. The Phase II 4EAT is a significantly different transmission, even internally. Either way both models are tough as nails, which is really the most important part in opinion.
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Dec 13, 2008 03:52
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Ended up going body shop shopping and every place wanted to take the fender off, sand it entirely repaint, and cost me $750 to do it. I found a place that said they could do a spot repair and because the paint is so new and has not yet faded, there is no reason to sit and blend 3 panels around it like every other shop wanted mainly because its going to be the exact same color as it is already. They want $360 to do that and unless that would be a horrible thing to do, I'll probably end up just paying that. Any opinions?
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Dec 13, 2008 04:23
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Clutch was pretty much fried at 51k kilometers on my '05 LGT. I just had it replaced with an ACT "Heavy Duty" clutch, and 2006 WRX flywheel. Seems to be a pretty common swap for that LGT. Man, I was just getting the hang of the whole clutch thing, and now it's like learning all over again! The engagement window is much smaller, and the clutch is firmer and non-linear. Oh well, I'll get use to it. It does grip like a sonofabitch though! I can't imagine what a full racing clutch would be like.
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Dec 13, 2008 04:40
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How the hell does everyone burn out thier LGT clutches so fast? I'm at 60k mi with track days and autocrosses and I can still "accelerate" (using the term loosely) from 15mph in 5th with no slip. Also, my first manual. (Crap, there's now a new clutch in my future isn't there)
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Dec 13, 2008 04:44
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8ender posted:The Phase II 4EAT is a significantly different transmission, even internally. Either way both models are tough as nails, which is really the most important part in opinion. It's not that different, it's still basically the old JATCO 4-EAT design. All Subaru has done is add new software, beef it up a little for turbos and add some gimmicks. The 4EAT is actually a pretty common transmission. It's been used by Ford, Subaru, Kia, Mazda and Nissan models in one form or another. The Phase 2 is actually worse than the original, IMO. It was supposed to be smoother, but for some reason the shift solenoids like to fail and it likes to torque bind. littlehulkster fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Dec 13, 2008 |
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Dec 13, 2008 07:19
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A co-worker used to work on the ESX drag cars. They ran bone stock used 4eats with a high stall torque converter. At ~950hp they'd go through two or so per season. And Mr. Powers, get a turboback, intake, and tune ASAP. Here's a car we did recently: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1644734
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Dec 13, 2008 09:01
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Coffee Jones posted:I saw that. The STI isn't offered with an auto (at least I don't think so, it shouldn't be), and the pics show a stick. Take it from me: Don't buy a used STI. I know it seems like a good idea. Don't do it.
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Dec 13, 2008 09:26
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no, there's nothing wrong with getting a used sti. They're really durable cars. Just do a compression and leak down check before buying it.
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Dec 13, 2008 09:48
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littlehulkster posted:The Phase 2 is actually worse than the original, IMO. It was supposed to be smoother, but for some reason the shift solenoids like to fail and it likes to torque bind. Do you have some evidence of this, empirical or anecdotal?
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Dec 13, 2008 12:44
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jamal posted:no, there's nothing wrong with getting a used sti. They're really durable cars. Just do a compression and leak down check before buying it. And, you know, actually look at the thing in person and turn it on to see if there is obvious knock.
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Dec 13, 2008 13:36
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It's amazing to me the number of people that I know around here who drive Subarus who don't know that you can't just tow it by lifting the front wheels. I was talking with a friend of mine at work with an early 2000's Outback that up and died on her the other day, and I'm almost positive that they towed it via lifting the front wheels.  If that hosed up her diffs, would the car even be driveable? They wouldn't have towed it more than a mile or so (it was from our work to the closest shop). Would the damage be minimal due to the light distance?jamal posted:A co-worker used to work on the ESX drag cars. They ran bone stock used 4eats with a high stall torque converter. At ~950hp they'd go through two or so per season. If I've been tuned already, would I need to be retuned if I bought an exhaust? The tune I have is pretty aggressive (thank god for SI-drive, never thought I'd say that), and I just wouldn't want it screwing up anything by running the same tune.
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Dec 13, 2008 16:01
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In response to towing, I cant remember the last time I saw a liftup style tower..usually only flatbeds.
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Dec 13, 2008 17:13
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nm posted:How the hell does everyone burn out thier LGT clutches so fast? Mine went out at 65k, but I'm sure the PO abused it at some point, and with 280whp and me driving the poo poo out of it, it wasn't long for this world.
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Dec 13, 2008 17:26
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my dealership just sent me a letter that I'm due for a 40,000 mile service appointment. wtf is due at 40,000? I thought the big stuff was all 30, 60, 90.
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Dec 13, 2008 21:31
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nm posted:I can still "accelerate" (using the term loosely) from 15mph in 5th with no slip. The true test is uphill in 3rd or 4rth at peak power RPM and WOT. If your clutch can hold that your fine. Your engine is making dick all torque at 15mph in 5th so of course your clutch can hold it. But your clutch is fine anyway.
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Dec 13, 2008 22:05
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Fantastipotamus posted:It's amazing to me the number of people that I know around here who drive Subarus who don't know that you can't just tow it by lifting the front wheels. I was talking with a friend of mine at work with an early 2000's Outback that up and died on her the other day, and I'm almost positive that they towed it via lifting the front wheels. Ziploc posted:The true test is uphill in 3rd or 4rth at peak power RPM and WOT. If your clutch can hold that your fine. Your engine is making dick all torque at 15mph in 5th so of course your clutch can hold it. But your clutch is fine anyway.
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Dec 13, 2008 22:57
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Here's one for The Slaughter and/or anyone else who works at a Subaru dealership. I managed to run over something this week that tore my CV boot and screwed up the splash guard under the car. The tech gave me part number 56410AG06B to replace it, but all I've found when trying to buy the part online is 56410AG06E. Anyone know if it's the same part? I'd hate to get under there and find that the holes don't line up.
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Dec 14, 2008 01:16
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Bud Manstrong posted:Here's one for The Slaughter and/or anyone else who works at a Subaru dealership. I managed to run over something this week that tore my CV boot and screwed up the splash guard under the car. The tech gave me part number 56410AG06B to replace it, but all I've found when trying to buy the part online is 56410AG06E. Anyone know if it's the same part? I'd hate to get under there and find that the holes don't line up.
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Dec 14, 2008 02:08
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MMD3 posted:my dealership just sent me a letter that I'm due for a 40,000 mile service appointment. wtf is due at 40,000? I thought the big stuff was all 30, 60, 90. It may be just an oil change and an inspection. I get these all the time. Factory service for pre-'06 turbo models was every 5k miles (oil change, inspection). Major services are every 15k miles. The 45k is only like $150, compared to the $700 of the 30/60/90k services.
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Dec 14, 2008 04:55
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Hey awesome a Subaru thread. Here's mine. 2004 Sti  I have taken off the wing and replaced the hood scoop with this -  I was having a problem with the cops so I changed my profile. It was a little painful, but it worked. I'm awaiting time and money for a STi limited spoiler. Mods: -Cobb TBE -Cobb Shifter -TurboXS FMIC -GM Solenoid -Tein Type lovely (came with it )-Cobb AP V1 -Protune at 21.5 Psi, 322 AWHP/ 354 Ft/Lbs -Cobb AP V1 I'm currently having a number of problems with it if anybody wants to see if they knows whats wrong with it. A while ago I hit a giant "pot hole" (canyon) at night, WOT, probably going 45 mph in a 25 mph where hitting this "pot hole" was horrendous enough going 25 mph. I didn't see it, BAM, from that day forward the car pulled to the left in proportion to throttle. The more gas you gave it, the harder it pulled the steering wheel to the left. No throttle, no pulling. I also heard a CV clunk, sure enough 2 weeks later I snapped the rear left axle by fragmenting the CV cage. I pull it out, snap in a new one with high hopes of fixing the pulling. Didn't fix a thing except the clunking. Still haven't figured it out although I haven't taken it to a shop yet which is the last thing I want to do. I'm finally getting some free time now so I'm going to attempt to find out whats wrong with this thing. The only things I have done are a visual inspection, and two alignments. In fact, now it pulls to the right under no throttle at an even rate, until you hit the gas and it starts pulling to the left under throttle. Makes it almost impossible to drive. It's also very inconsistent and excessively twitchy. To make things worse I attempted to install some STi JDM pink springs to replace the Tein Shitties. Was sent the wrong springs. Go go Ebay. If anybody is looking for JDM v7 STi pink springs for the 02-03 RS, WRX, or wagon please let me know. I only took out the rear right strut and simply reinstalled it and since then it's been making the most god awful grinding noisy noise ever. I hardly drove it at all before this, now I don't at all. It is an oscillating sound increasing in speed as the speed of the car increases. Fun fun fun
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Dec 14, 2008 06:03
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FalconGuy016 posted:In fact, now it pulls to the right under no throttle at an even rate, until you hit the gas and it starts pulling to the left under throttle. Makes it almost impossible to drive. It's also very inconsistent and excessively twitchy. A lot of things could cause the car to pull, but the top of the list is a bent control arm, bent tie rod, or bent knuckle. If you've got the latter, you've got the two former. I don't think it's any drivetrain issues (CVs on the axles or the center diff) because they make a shitton of noise when they are about to go. Jack the car up and start poking around for broken poo poo. edit: The twitciness reminded me of a problem we had with one of our Subaru rallycars: the driver hit a log and had a weird pulling. It turns out he broke the valving inside the power steering unit, causing it to distribute uneven hydraulic force to the tierods. The steering was heavier on one side, lighter on the other. FalconGuy016 posted:To make things worse I attempted to install some STi JDM pink springs to replace the Tein Shitties. Was sent the wrong springs. Go go Ebay. If anybody is looking for JDM v7 STi pink springs for the 02-03 RS, WRX, or wagon please let me know. I only took out the rear right strut and simply reinstalled it and since then it's been making the most god awful grinding noisy noise ever. I hardly drove it at all before this, now I don't at all. It is an oscillating sound increasing in speed as the speed of the car increases. The backing plate is probably rubbing on the rotor from when you bent it taking off the strut. You should probably let someone else do suspension work for you in the future. And unless you've got uprated injectors in there, 322 AWHP seems far to high for a VF39 on a sane-reading dyno. I made 310awhp with 116 octane and insane timing on a near-identical setup. Turbo Car fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Dec 14, 2008 |
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Dec 14, 2008 07:13
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MMD3 posted:my dealership just sent me a letter that I'm due for a 40,000 mile service appointment. wtf is due at 40,000? I thought the big stuff was all 30, 60, 90. I'd note that my UOAs on my LGT are indicating that Subaru's 7500mi oil recommendation is optimistic even with higher-end synth (though this involves track days, auto-x and general jackassery)
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Dec 14, 2008 11:09
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nm posted:http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/index.jsp?from=topNav I still change my oil every 3k on the clock no matter what, in any of my cars  MMD3, if you can talk them into it and you have a 2.5 turbo motor, try and get them to check the AVCS/oil line banjo filters for clogging, just in case.
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Dec 14, 2008 11:29
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TurboLuvah posted:I still change my oil every 3k on the clock no matter what, in any of my cars
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Dec 14, 2008 11:39
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Turbo Car posted:
Depending on the dyno it's more than possible. Here's about the most you can get out of the stock turbo and 95 octane. It's really hilarious how worked up some people got in that thread. jamal fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Dec 14, 2008 |
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Dec 14, 2008 11:52
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TurboLuvah posted:I still change my oil every 3k on the clock no matter what, in any of my cars He has a 92x, which is a 2.0 turbo.
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Dec 14, 2008 15:18
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Turbo Car posted:
Stock injectors, and it indeed always seemed a little bit high to me. Although, to be honest, yours seems a little low as well. I'm basing this off of the dyno [posting part of the forums at iwsti and Nasioc. In any case I have the dyno sheet and it was done here - http://www.agileauto.com/ - a reasonably respected STi tuner. Thanks for the suggestions. I'm inexperienced with taking out struts and it was my first time on a Subaru, second time overall. It was a little awkward getting it out so perhaps that is the problem I'll check today, thanks. I bet there isn't a simply way to check if my power steering is the culprit is there? Edit: Is nasioc working for anybody? It hasn't reliably worked for me for a least two weeks, always saying the server is busy.
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Dec 14, 2008 17:40
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works for me
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Dec 14, 2008 17:49
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Dr JonboyG posted:He has a 92x, which is a 2.0 turbo. well the 2006 92x has a 2.5, but yeah I have the 2005 with a 2.0.
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Dec 14, 2008 18:43
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nm posted:I don't know the answer, but it would help with some vehcile details. nm posted:http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/index.jsp?from=topNav There's no question the oil can definitely go longer than that. The problem is that when owners come in for blown turbos from the banjo bolt screen getting clogged, people have been reporting that they're getting denied warranty coverage if they're not following that 3,750 mile TSB. Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Dec 14, 2008 |
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Dec 14, 2008 18:45
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FalconGuy016 posted:Although, to be honest, yours seems a little low as well. On stock injectors, it's about as good as it gets on a Mustang dyno. I could see you making 322 on a dynojet that reads a bit high. The 360hp from the thread is with 650cc injectors and a factory freak of a car, but cool nevertheless. FalconGuy016 posted:I bet there isn't a simply way to check if my power steering is the culprit is there? Nope. Check everything before you try this. It should be fairly obvious if it is, though, as it'll have weird inconsistent weight behind the wheel as you turn. Hard soft hard sooooooft haaaard <- like that.
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Dec 14, 2008 18:56
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Turbo Car posted:On stock injectors, it's about as good as it gets on a Mustang dyno. I could see you making 322 on a dynojet that reads a bit high. The 360hp from the thread is with 650cc injectors and a factory freak of a car, but cool nevertheless. Oh, yeah, those aren't low numbers for a Mustang dyno.
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Dec 14, 2008 19:40
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