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MMD3 posted:well the 2006 92x has a 2.5, but yeah I have the 2005 with a 2.0. Huh, didn't know they offered the bigger engine - I thought we all got the 2.0. Edit- after doing some digging I can't find anything to support that, and the fact that they only built 10k of them suggest that all the Aeros are 2 liters. The Linear was a 2.5 though. drgitlin fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Dec 14, 2008 |
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Dec 14, 2008 20:30
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in 06 they got rid of the 2.0 completely in the US that includes the 9-2x. They didn't give it the 4-pot brakes though. Probably because they say subaru across them.
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Dec 14, 2008 21:58
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Bud Manstrong posted:There's no question the oil can definitely go longer than that. The problem is that when owners come in for blown turbos from the banjo bolt screen getting clogged, people have been reporting that they're getting denied warranty coverage if they're not following that 3,750 mile TSB. Again, I drive hard, but this is also good oil (pentosin)
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Dec 14, 2008 22:03
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I don't get any kind of analysis done but my oil gets disgusting well before 4000 miles, especially now that its winter. I can usually tell how bad it is by how noisy the lifters are in the cold morning. Just changed it with some new synthetic 3800 miles in and its almost completely silent now. The boxer is a dirty, dirty girl.
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Dec 14, 2008 22:06
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on my n/a 2.2, blackstone said it was fine to go 7500 on semi-synthetic.
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Dec 14, 2008 22:11
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jamal posted:on my n/a 2.2, blackstone said it was fine to go 7500 on semi-synthetic. Oil change intervals are a very gray area these days. Depends on the type of driving you are doing, the type of motor you have, and condition of the motor are the most important factors. There have been plenty of 15,000+ mile tests on modern vehicles with no ill result over the years - not that anybody recommends that yet (although I am sure it is coming). I have found 3000 miles in my car to be excessive, and I typically drive hard. The oil is hardly dirty. Then again, it is a more or less modern engine and I drive 90% highway. I change 5000-6000 usually.
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Dec 14, 2008 22:30
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jamal posted:on my n/a 2.2, blackstone said it was fine to go 7500 on semi-synthetic. 
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Dec 14, 2008 23:08
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Portland is getting it's first taste of winter weather, I woke up to snow which is quickly becoming ice as the day gets colder and more people have driven around. Driving an AWD after driving my RWD 240sx for so long is going to take some getting used to. The few times I lost traction while I was driving about earlier it was odd to feel random wheels lose traction as opposed to knowing that it was always going to be the rears getting squirrely. The other thing that confused me was if I went to brake and it lost traction the brakes made a strange sound and kind of felt like they were pushing back or wouldn't engage. Is that ABS and I just don't know what it feels like? I'm used to pumping my brakes gently in conditions like this so I wasn't prepared for it to kind of not take or whatever. That probably makes no sense whatsoever.
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Dec 15, 2008 00:49
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Yes, what you felt in the brake pedal was the ABS engaging. Feels weird the first time you experience it.
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Dec 15, 2008 00:55
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TurboLuvah posted:Yes, what you felt in the brake pedal was the ABS engaging. Feels weird the first time you experience it. I take it you just go with it then? I mean if you feel ABS kicking in do you pump your brakes or just keep pressure or...
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Dec 15, 2008 01:02
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Don't pump the brakes. Let it do its magic -- keep your foot down. edit: also what tires are you using?
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Dec 15, 2008 01:03
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Turbo Car posted:
I just took it off and check and it appears to not be bent, not touching the rotor. I turned the rotor a little and seemed to make no more noise than the other side did. Do you know what else it might be? While I was down there I noticed something a little disturbing on the rear differential.   Oil 
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Dec 15, 2008 01:20
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CharlesM posted:Don't pump the brakes. Let it do its magic -- keep your foot down. uhhh, they're Federal Super Steel 535. When I bought the car the previous owner took the car to the tire shop to have them fill one of the tires that had been losing pressure. Apparently they took the tire off to inspect/patch it and then told her that it wasn't in any condition to be driving on so I got a call from her saying "I've got to buy new tires for the car" I offered to split the cost with her but because she was actually at the shop waiting for the tires to be swapped I had exactly 0 minutes to research tires and recommend what she purchase. Kind of got stuck with no choice unfortunately but at least they're new.
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Dec 15, 2008 01:33
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MMD3 posted:uhhh, they're Federal Super Steel 535. When I bought the car the previous owner took the car to the tire shop to have them fill one of the tires that had been losing pressure. Apparently they took the tire off to inspect/patch it and then told her that it wasn't in any condition to be driving on so I got a call from her saying "I've got to buy new tires for the car" I offered to split the cost with her but because she was actually at the shop waiting for the tires to be swapped I had exactly 0 minutes to research tires and recommend what she purchase. Kind of got stuck with no choice unfortunately but at least they're new. WTF? I've never even heard of that brand. Do yourself and your car a massive favour - get some RE960AS right now. Sell the Stash AM95s if you must!
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Dec 15, 2008 02:26
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Those tires are 2 for $50 cheap as poo poo tires, about what I would expect if the PO bought them to never use. I would buy new ones ASAP.
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Dec 15, 2008 02:31
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Well my brother victimized the 2006 Outback Sport a little. It spun out on some ice and curbed one of the wheels. It still has the stock tires, I forgot what kind they are. I told him to buy some winter tires and steel wheels, he doesn't believe me that all-season tires aren't really that great?? What do you guys in the Seattle area run? edit: Also what shops do you guys use, if any? I don't have any tools at my brother's place and the steering bushings on the Forester need to be replaced.
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Dec 15, 2008 02:37
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taqueso posted:Those tires are 2 for $50 cheap as poo poo tires, about what I would expect if the PO bought them to never use. I would buy new ones ASAP. gently caress, they can't be that cheap can they? Les Schwab charged her $85/tire for them. Jonboy, ha! not happening anytime soon buddy.
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Dec 15, 2008 02:55
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MMD3 posted:gently caress, they can't be that cheap can they? Les Schwab charged her $85/tire for them.
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Dec 15, 2008 03:09
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I was going to buy my first subaru today, a 1995 TSX Legacy wagon, 2.0, no turbo, 5 speed, 140k kms. Took it for a pre-purchase mechanical check today, everything on it was absolutely fine except one of the cylinders has a compression problem, most likely due to a dodgy valve... apparently it'll be quite expensive to fix, so no new car for me 
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Dec 15, 2008 03:26
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MMD3 posted:gently caress, they can't be that cheap can they? Les Schwab charged her $85/tire for them. Your car is wearing the equivalent of a fake pair of AJIVs in green, yellow and black, but the air bubble is solid plastic. 
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Dec 15, 2008 03:34
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Dr JonboyG posted:Your car is wearing the equivalent of a fake pair of AJIVs in green, yellow and black, but the air bubble is solid plastic. hey, as long as I can run fast in them...
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Dec 15, 2008 03:43
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MMD3 posted:gently caress, they can't be that cheap can they? Les Schwab charged her $85/tire for them. They could be this cheap:  Went into a ditch at just under 20mph. I was driving on a snow covered road, went to turn on a 90 degree bend, and got nothing. Brakes, nothing, last minute acceleration, nothing. The tires the dealership put on the car so that it would pass safety were the finest quality "G3000" all-seasons and they sucked at everything. The only reason I kept them around was that they sucked less on dry pavement. I have Goodyear Ultragrip 500 winter tires on now and my Impreza is a snow destroying monster. 8ender fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Dec 15, 2008 |
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Dec 15, 2008 03:57
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MMD3 posted:hey, as long as I can run fast in them... Honestly, a decent pair of tyres will transform that car. The difference from the stock RE92s was big enough for me, I can't imagine what it would have been like from Chinese ones made from bakelite. They're the only parts of your car that actually interact with the road, it's worth the effort.
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Dec 15, 2008 04:02
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damnit. Why do my side mirrors have to be fixed while practically every other subaru has folding ones. I just broke the passenger one off on the fence by my driveway. gently caress. Maybe I can fix it with enough superglue.
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Dec 15, 2008 04:11
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Hey guys! I bought a 2002 Legacy 2.5l wagon last month after my 1995 Geo Prizm had an unfortunate meeting with a ditch on a snowy day. I absolutely love my Subaru. THe suspension is nice and stiff, the AWD is great on snowy, muddy country roads, and the 2.5l engine easily out accellerates the 1.8l in my old geo. Plus, its got a roof rack to mount my CB antennas on.
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Dec 15, 2008 04:28
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FalconGuy016 posted:I just took it off and check and it appears to not be bent, not touching the rotor. I turned the rotor a little and seemed to make no more noise than the other side did. Do you know what else it might be? The photo doesn't make it clear if that's just normal oil residue from a change or if it's actually leaking. If you've got little drops pre-dripping, then it's leaking. If not, you're fine. It's weird filling it up and you spill poo poo on the diff from time to time. If it is leaking, I'd start by checking the inner plunger-type CV joint for wear. Your encounter with a pothole may have nuked the rear R180 diff and be causing the noise AND pulling issues you've been describing. If you can record the noise, I'm drat sure I can tell you exactly what it is when I hear it.
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Dec 15, 2008 05:09
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Turbo Car posted:The photo doesn't make it clear if that's just normal oil residue from a change or if it's actually leaking. If you've got little drops pre-dripping, then it's leaking. If not, you're fine. It's weird filling it up and you spill poo poo on the diff from time to time. Sounds like a plan. Thanks! I just finished taking out the strut and re-seating the spring and taking off the rotor. No apparent contact between the rotor and anything else. I just don't get why this would start after taking the strut out and putting it back in. The pothole and pulling issue has been going on for much much longer. Edit: Also, I haven't changed the rear diff oil.
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Dec 15, 2008 05:38
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the bolts on the rear diff cover work themselves loose occasionally. Make sure they're all snugged up. Otherwise it could be an axle seal.
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Dec 15, 2008 06:06
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8ender posted:They could be this cheap: yeah well... considering Portland gets snow approximately one week out of the year it doesn't seem like the most sound investment. It's way easier for me to just keep a pair of chains handy if/when I have to be driving around in the ice. That being said maybe I'll look into better all around tires at some point but then wtf do I do with this set of near-new tires that are on there now? I'm also thinking there are far more cost effective things for me to do with my money for now so unfortunately tires will probably take a back seat to say an access port. I just wish the previous owner (a friend) hadn't had to make a rush decision on what tires to buy before I could have a say.
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Dec 15, 2008 06:46
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MMD3 posted:That being said maybe I'll look into better all around tires at some point but then wtf do I do with this set of near-new tires that are on there now? I'm also thinking there are far more cost effective things for me to do with my money for now so unfortunately tires will probably take a back seat to say an access port. There is no better bang-for-your buck performance upgrade than going to good rubber. RE-01Rs if you want unreal wet and dry performance (ask nm, he runs them on the track in the wet), or RE960AS like Dr JonBoyG suggested. Put off the AP and get new rubber. Get new rubber. Rubber. (and an AP isn't worth it without a turboback exhaust, anyway)
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Dec 15, 2008 07:40
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MMD3 posted:yeah well... considering Portland gets snow approximately one week out of the year it doesn't seem like the most sound investment. It's way easier for me to just keep a pair of chains handy if/when I have to be driving around in the ice. Except the Access port will be a totally worthless modification if all that new power can't make it to the ground through your poo poo tires. You can get a good set of tires for the same price as an access port. Get them now and get the access port later.
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Dec 15, 2008 07:42
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I've never spun my tires so they can't be that horrible. does anyone actually have any reviews that prove they're the shittiest thing ever or something?
MMD3 fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Dec 15, 2008 |
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Dec 15, 2008 08:04
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You're not going to spin your tires on a start in an AWD car unless you either have an astronomical amount of power, it's very severe weather (And believe me, nothing Portland gets counts) or things have gone so horribly wrong you're about to be killed in a horrific accident. If you can lose traction when braking in that tiny amount of snow, you know those tires are really bad and should be replaced. I just run good all seasons on my Subaru and even then I lose traction braking maybe one time in the span of a month, and our hills would give a Portlander fits. You shouldn't be losing traction at all in that stuff in an AWD car. littlehulkster fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Dec 15, 2008 |
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Dec 15, 2008 08:29
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MMD3 posted:I've never spun my tires so they can't be that horrible. does anyone actually have any reviews that prove they're the shittiest thing ever or something? Tires are the best modification you can do to your car and can really transform your car.
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Dec 15, 2008 08:44
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it takes a lot of power to spin four wheels. Braking and cornering have a lot less to do with the awd and a lot more to do with the tires.
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Dec 15, 2008 09:27
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jamal posted:it takes a lot of power to spin four wheels. Braking and cornering have a lot less to do with the awd and a lot more to do with the tires.
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Dec 15, 2008 09:29
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There's a 2002 WRX for sale locally that looks like a fairly good deal. My current car is fine, although I plan on replacing it in the next 12-18 months. It's got 100k miles and looks like it's in pretty good shape. It's an automatic, which I'd be OK with since I haven't had a manual transmission car in quite some time. I'd lose some utility since I'd be downsizing my car quite a bit (I have a Chevy Blazer right now), but I should gain some gas mileage out of it and it'll be a lot more fun to drive. Were there any major issues to watch out for with those WRX's? Any particular maintenance I should make sure it has had? Is the automatic really horrid (I drove a 2002 Forester XT with the automatic and didn't really like it)?
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Dec 15, 2008 13:16
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MMD3 posted:yeah well... considering Portland gets snow approximately one week out of the year it doesn't seem like the most sound investment. It's way easier for me to just keep a pair of chains handy if/when I have to be driving around in the ice. Please, please, please. From one sneakerhead to another, hear me. Screw the AP for now, get some good tyres. RE960s are the best all-seasons you can buy right now. Tire Rack has them for $112 a corner: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Y&speed_rating=(Y)&minSpeedRating=V As i said earlier, they are the only points of contact between your car and the road - without a doubt THE most important bit to spend money on. I've been dithering on an AP for my 92x for a while now, the tyre upgrade happened as soon as I could push the button. Even compared to the stock RE92s it's like a different car - wet weather handling is insane, and there's so much more grip and feel in the dry, plus they cope with the little bit of snow we get here. Honestly, spend that $5-600 on new rubber now, and do the AP in 6 months time. You might even live long enough to see that happen.
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Dec 15, 2008 13:24
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gimpsuitjones posted:I was going to buy my first subaru today, a 1995 TSX Legacy wagon, 2.0, no turbo, 5 speed, 140k kms. Took it for a pre-purchase mechanical check today, everything on it was absolutely fine except one of the cylinders has a compression problem(only 78% compression), most likely due to a dodgy valve apparently... apparently it'll be quite expensive to fix, so no new car for me quotin myself here realistically how big of a problem is this and is it really that hard/expensive to fix/get fixed? the guy is taking it to a mechanic to get a diagnosis of the cause of the issue... I really liked the car but I don't want to buy something that's going to die in 6 months or cost me a lot of money
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Dec 15, 2008 14:46
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MMD3 posted:I've never spun my tires so they can't be that horrible. does anyone actually have any reviews that prove they're the shittiest thing ever or something? Trust everyone when they say better tires are worth it. I didn't believe it until I got some high performance summer tires, and the difference is incredible, I am now a convert. At that to a nice set of Nokian winter tires, and I'm now a firm believer in the "buy better rubber immediately if possible," crowd.
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Dec 15, 2008 16:26
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