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gimpsuitjones posted:quotin myself here Yeah I would keep looking, my money is it's losing compression due to a blown head gasket somewhere. You can easily replace the head gaskets if you know what you're doing, but it's not going to be just like changing your oil, and you could run into problems like warped heads that need to be resurfaced. It could also be that the valves aren't seating properly so it's not holding proper compression, or the piston rings aren't sealing completely. Both of which will not be an easy fix, I suggest either looking for a new car or having the mechanic fix it and then do another leakdown/compression test. Older Subarus are a dime a dozen, I would just look for another, there's nothing too special about that car, except that you really want it now.
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Dec 15, 2008 16:31
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TurboLuvah posted:Trust everyone when they say better tires are worth it. I didn't believe it until I got some high performance summer tires, and the difference is incredible, I am now a convert. At that to a nice set of Nokian winter tires, and I'm now a firm believer in the "buy better rubber immediately if possible," crowd. Living in Portland I don't think he needs a dedicated set of winter tyres and wheels, but omg buy better all seasons now.
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Dec 15, 2008 16:41
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I'm going to repost this from the AI stupid questions thread because I think that it might get some more accurate responses here.quote:Today I test drove a 2002 Subaru WRX, Mostly stock but had been previously modified (Injectors, full exhaust, intercooler, different turbo) and returned to mostly stock. Just had the 104k mile maintenance performed by a subaru dealership and the timing belt replaced. Some things I didn't note is that the Check engine light was on at the end of the test drive, I don't think it was on when I started. Someone suggested that it could be a "Safe Mode" issue but I believe that fact that it will rev to 6k+ at idle and in first makes that a moot point I think? I think that the TB Coupler or IC Y-pipe could also be causing this issue? Governor chip malfunction maybe? Could it also be giving issues like this if the ECU is tuned to modified parts no longer on the vehicle? Anyone have any thoughts? Bob Log fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Dec 15, 2008 |
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Dec 15, 2008 18:10
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"[ELP posted:"] I cant tell you what is wrong with it, but I can tell you that I wouldnt touch that car with a 10 foot pole.
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Dec 15, 2008 18:30
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Ok, I can understand that advice but if I take it to a shop and it turns out to be something simple like a fuel-to-air ratio problem wouldn't that be silly to pass on it? Am I missing something? I've already talked the car down quite a bit in price, would still be a deal even if I had to replace the engine. They have already agreed to diagnose and fix the problem before selling it to me at this point regardless.
Bob Log fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Dec 15, 2008 |
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Dec 15, 2008 18:43
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"[ELP posted:"] If my granny had balls she'd be my grandpa. It's your money, and you sound like you don't want to be talked out of it, but OMGWTFNO. Run away.
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Dec 15, 2008 19:42
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sounds like it has a lovely tune, is hitting boost cut, and goes into limp mode. Have a compression and leak down test done before you even consider buying the car. That will tell you if there are actual mechanical problems with the motor, like a cracked piston caused by detonation.
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Dec 15, 2008 19:52
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LordOfThePants posted:There's a 2002 WRX for sale locally that looks like a fairly good deal. My current car is fine, although I plan on replacing it in the next 12-18 months. Anyone on this? I'm thinking about calling the guy to see it tomorrow at lunch and I don't want to waste my time if the automatic in the WRX is a ticking time bomb or something.
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Dec 15, 2008 23:19
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Turbo Car posted:
Unfortunately I only have a normal camera so the sound is off, but maybe you can tell what's happening. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Vv14M21HY0 These show, although not very well, a little of the pulling issue. Everytime it's going to the left it's when I have my hands off the wheel. Also you can hear more of that noise. Try to watch it in "high quality" because it was already lovely enough and youtube down converted it further. Even in high quality youtube hosed it up where you can't really see it changing lanes in the first one, but that's what is happening from 0:23-:0:25. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVt_XimI6Ok http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjAePXK7XMg
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Dec 15, 2008 23:22
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Hey guys, im going to be driving to Florida from Chicago this Saturday. Im running a Cobb AP 93 Octane map and wanted to know if 93 Octane is actually available down where im headed (I should be taking I-75 all the way down and I'll be right outside Port Charlotte.) If there indeed is no 93 Octane down there, can I revert to a 91 Octane map now and run 93 on the 91 map until I fill up with the 91?
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Dec 15, 2008 23:38
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LordOfThePants posted:Anyone on this? I'm thinking about calling the guy to see it tomorrow at lunch and I don't want to waste my time if the automatic in the WRX is a ticking time bomb or something.
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Dec 15, 2008 23:51
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BannedForLulz posted:Hey guys, im going to be driving to Florida from Chicago this Saturday. Im running a Cobb AP 93 Octane map and wanted to know if 93 Octane is actually available down where im headed (I should be taking I-75 all the way down and I'll be right outside Port Charlotte.) If there indeed is no 93 Octane down there, can I revert to a 91 Octane map now and run 93 on the 91 map until I fill up with the 91? I'm in Floirda, and I've never seen 91 octane here, but there's 93 all over the place. You'll be fine.
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Dec 15, 2008 23:52
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BannedForLulz posted:Hey guys, im going to be driving to Florida from Chicago this Saturday. Im running a Cobb AP 93 Octane map and wanted to know if 93 Octane is actually available down where im headed (I should be taking I-75 all the way down and I'll be right outside Port Charlotte.) If there indeed is no 93 Octane down there, can I revert to a 91 Octane map now and run 93 on the 91 map until I fill up with the 91? Even here in minnesota, 93 is hard to find.
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Dec 16, 2008 02:07
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I'm in FL, and every station down here has 93. Might be harder to find on the way down here, though. From Autoblog: Autoblog posted:Even more bad news (motor)sports fans. According to a report by Finnish sports site MT3.fi, Subaru will follow in the footsteps of Suzuki and pull out of the 2009 World Rally Championship (WRC) season. While Suzuki's declaration was a surprise, Subaru's exit from the world of rallying would be a serious blow to the sport as a whole and its fans in particular. A formal announcement will supposedly follow tomorrow, but we're keeping our fingers crossed that the Finns got this one wrong. Thanks to Eralp for the tip! drat. Hell of a thing if that's true. Wonder how much it has to do with the announced switch to S2000-spec cars in a couple of years.
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Dec 16, 2008 04:58
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Bud Manstrong posted:Wonder how much it has to do with the announced switch to S2000-spec cars in a couple of years.
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Dec 16, 2008 06:22
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TurboLuvah posted:Yeah I would keep looking, my money is it's losing compression due to a blown head gasket somewhere. You can easily replace the head gaskets if you know what you're doing, but it's not going to be just like changing your oil, and you could run into problems like warped heads that need to be resurfaced. Thanks, I'll keep looking I guess It's just so hard to find a mid 90's subaru in a manual, non-turbo version that hasn't been thrashed, crashed or modded by loving morons around here.
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Dec 16, 2008 14:46
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gimpsuitjones posted:Thanks, I'll keep looking I guess Meanwhile, I can't sell my 99 5sp Forester in crazy good shape for the life of me 
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Dec 16, 2008 14:50
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move to New Zealand and I'll be happy to take it off your hands...
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Dec 16, 2008 15:02
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And it's official. Subaru is out of WRC.Press Release posted:Tokyo, December 16, 2008 – Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd. (FHI), the maker of Subaru automobiles, today announced the withdrawal from the FIA World Rally Championship (WRC) at the end of the 2008 season.
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Dec 16, 2008 16:54
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BannedForLulz posted:Hey guys, im going to be driving to Florida from Chicago this Saturday. Im running a Cobb AP 93 Octane map and wanted to know if 93 Octane is actually available down where im headed (I should be taking I-75 all the way down and I'll be right outside Port Charlotte.) If there indeed is no 93 Octane down there, can I revert to a 91 Octane map now and run 93 on the 91 map until I fill up with the 91? do you have the AP V2.0 that does real time maps? If for some reason on the way there you couldn't get 93 you could use a real-time economy map and you should be OK I think. It runs wastegate boost iirc.
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Dec 16, 2008 17:23
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In regards to my posts at the top of this page, turns out that the WRX has forged pistons, Greddy unequal length headers, HKS uppipe and Braille forged dog motor mounts. No downpipe is installed because it was going to pass smog. I think that lack of a downpipe could also be the problem and the engine may be balanced differently on than when the motor mounts were installed as there area number of mods removed from the car. I'm leaning towards it being a boost leak problem and/or lack of downpipe issue. I'll be taking it to DBTuned in Sacramento sometime next week for a compression check and to give it a full combing over before I buy it. I'd like to thank everyone who gave me advice, was of great help. If anyone has any other suggestions for things I should look at with the car I'd appreciate it. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Dec 16, 2008 |
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Dec 16, 2008 17:56
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Tuuurbooo Caaaarrr!!! 
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Dec 16, 2008 19:58
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I am too lazy to resize photos. This is one of a series that I am going to composite, but I forgot my camera and laptop in my other apartment. http://ytrewq.org/wrx/DSC_0050.JPG Up to 150 miles on the car.
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Dec 17, 2008 00:08
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Car looks awesome dude  Get some daylight snaps!
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Dec 17, 2008 00:24
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TurboLuvah posted:Car looks awesome dude I am off next week along with my friend who is also into photography along with another friend who is also into photography. However, by then, I will have the gaudy wheels I painted for winter with the red lip!
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Dec 17, 2008 00:44
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FalconGuy016 posted:Unfortunately I only have a normal camera so the sound is off, but maybe you can tell what's happening. Turbo car, if you read this, I checked my fluid level in the rear diff and in doing so tugged on the axle. Seems like it's starting to go (moves at the cv joint). Unfortunate it decided to start right when I removed the strut to confuse the poo poo out of me and waste time, but at least I know what to replace. Maybe it's causing me to pull as well.
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Dec 17, 2008 04:43
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FalconGuy016 posted:Tuuurbooo Caaaarrr!!! Gah I don't check this for a day and you poo poo your pants. That sounds like you've totally hosed a race in in your CV joint. If it ever sounds like it's going to fall the gently caress off but drives OK (like this), it's a hosed CV joint. If that was a wheel bearing it would've locked the gently caress up by now. Fuckity gently caress. If you know how to pull apart a CV, go for it, it'll be easy to diagnose once you get it open. If you have never opened up a CV boot, however, take it to a dealership. The $300 they'll charge you to diagnose and replace the axle (if that's the case) is worth the piece of mind if you have no idea what you're doing. edit: If you screw up reassembling a Rzeppa ball/cage type CV, you'll create the problem you're hearing for yourself even if it wasn't there before. The ball bearing need to be carefully tapped into their cage. Too hard and you'll dent one, and after 1000 miles of spinning it'll wear a trough in it's race and be hella loud. FalconGuy016 posted:Turbo car, if you read this, I checked my fluid level in the rear diff and in doing so tugged on the axle. Seems like it's starting to go (moves at the cv joint). Unfortunate it decided to start right when I removed the strut to confuse the poo poo out of me and waste time, but at least I know what to replace. Maybe it's causing me to pull as well. Google tripod-type CV joints. They're supposed to move in and out like that To reiterate: that plunging action isn't your problem. It's supposed to do that to allow the suspension to articulate.The only other thing I can think of is a broken clutch plate in the R180 banging around. I have never seen it happen in the year I've been pulling diffs apart, however. Turbo Car fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Dec 17, 2008 |
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Dec 17, 2008 06:28
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Turbo Car posted:Gah I don't check this for a day and you poo poo your pants. It's moving side to side and generally acting poopy. The other side, which is new, is solid. The other side broke after the pot hole incident and when I cut the boot, the cage of the cv joint fell out in a goopy mess in about 150 pieces. However, I am not familiar with rebuilding cv joints. From my brief encounter with this before I asked around for a day or so at different shops, and looked it up online, and determined it wasn't worth it (whether I am right or not I don't know). In any case, I'm loving sick at the fact you can get a new front axle for $55 at Autozone but since they don't make the rear ones yet they cost $400-$500 from a dealer. Turbo Car posted:The $300 they'll charge you to diagnose and replace the axle God I wish, simply because that means the axle itself must be cheaper than $300.
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Dec 17, 2008 07:41
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The axle should be somewhere around $150-$200 for a remanufactured Subaru unit. I'm not that keen on those Autozone ones. edit: Oh it's an STi, hmm...That may make a difference. Not sure. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Dec 17, 2008 |
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Dec 17, 2008 07:52
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CharlesM posted:The axle should be somewhere around $150-$200 for a remanufactured Subaru unit. I'm not that keen on those Autozone ones. Yeah, unfortunately a huge one. I don't like the Autozone ones either, but if it will keep me rolling for $55 while I gather $400 I'll take it.
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Dec 17, 2008 08:03
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Not enough flannel in this channel what with your new-fangled "WRX" and "STi" things. Needs more GL.  From: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3093827 Many LOLs. quote:* EGR REMOVED, and replaced with a pc video card heatsink. kaniff fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Dec 17, 2008 |
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Dec 17, 2008 17:11
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Roast Beef posted:do you have the AP V2.0 that does real time maps? If for some reason on the way there you couldn't get 93 you could use a real-time economy map and you should be OK I think. It runs wastegate boost iirc. I do have the V2.0 (as best as I can tell), I didnt know that it did real-time maps. I thought that it had to be in test mode with all those connectors hooked up. Hmm. Well, my plan was to run the 93 octane map until I run into a row of stations without 93 octane, at which point it should take me but 10 minutes to pull out the AP and its needed clips, etc. and upload a 91 octane map right there at the station. Or is this not going to work how I am seeing it working in my head?
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Dec 17, 2008 18:21
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BannedForLulz posted:I do have the V2.0 (as best as I can tell), I didnt know that it did real-time maps. I thought that it had to be in test mode with all those connectors hooked up. Hmm.  If it looks like that it's AP v.2
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Dec 17, 2008 18:27
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BannedForLulz posted:I do have the V2.0 (as best as I can tell), I didnt know that it did real-time maps. I thought that it had to be in test mode with all those connectors hooked up. Hmm. This would work, but remember that when you flash it is going to reset the ECU and you lose all of your learned parameters. This drives me nuts because the throttle mapping goes crazy, but maybe you don't mind. Either way if your AP looks like the picture FalconGuy posted you can use the real-time maps, and you leave the testmode connectors unplugged. You plug the AP into the OBD2 port and there should be a real time map menu option.
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Dec 17, 2008 19:37
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FalconGuy016 posted:Yeah, unfortunately a huge one. I don't like the Autozone ones either, but if it will keep me rolling for $55 while I gather $400 I'll take it. If I was doing the work, I'd only charge for an hour's worth of labor because it's easy as hell to do if you have an good impact. That'd be about $300. STi and WRX axles are essentially the same, only with different splines from certain years. An SVX axle will directly mate to an '04 STi tranmission I was told by my boss. How weird is that?
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Dec 17, 2008 20:01
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Turbo Car posted:If I was doing the work, I'd only charge for an hour's worth of labor because it's easy as hell to do if you have an good impact. That'd be about $300. STi and WRX axles are essentially the same, only with different splines from certain years. An SVX axle will directly mate to an '04 STi tranmission I was told by my boss. I didn't think an R160 diff axle would fix in a R180. I only gathered that from people converted their wrx's to 6 speed, the stock rear axles never fit into the new diff. What I'm concerned and possibly excited about is how you would charge $300 to replace my axle. That implies you can get an appropriate axle for at least less than $300. I cannot find one for less than $395. I can replace an axle, it's incredibly easy on the rears and I didn't even need an impact wrench last time, I just hate having to buy one.
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Dec 17, 2008 20:54
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BannedForLulz posted:I do have the V2.0 (as best as I can tell), I didnt know that it did real-time maps. I thought that it had to be in test mode with all those connectors hooked up. Hmm. Evidently using realtime flash instead of a complete reflash has shittier settings or something, so the rumor on nasioc goes. Just start the AP before you start pumping gas, by the time its done at the pump, you should be done on the AP. I love that all up and down i95 is 93 octane 
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Dec 17, 2008 22:13
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Lando posted:Evidently using realtime flash instead of a complete reflash has shittier settings or something, so the rumor on nasioc goes. Just start the AP before you start pumping gas, by the time its done at the pump, you should be done on the AP. it's no different at all. But if you reset the ecu/disconnect the battery it goes back to the base map.
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Dec 18, 2008 08:23
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FalconGuy016 posted:I didn't think an R160 diff axle would fix in a R180. I only gathered that from people converted their wrx's to 6 speed, the stock rear axles never fit into the new diff. I've got a ton of them sitting around the shop I work in. We buy them off of crashed STis and rebuild them (when we have time) as spares. They're like $50 a piece if you know where to find them (hint: NASIOC) I poo poo you not my boss can change out all four axles on the car in under 10 minutes. He just busts everything off with a massive impact, knocks the rear endlink bolt off with one hit of the hammer, and just loving pulls the rear axles off with brute force. It's pretty amazing. The '06 STi has the same final gear ratio as the '06 WRX, so you can use the '06 STi 6-speed with the R160, so my boss says, and can keep the same axles. That's what I was thinking off, not the axles My bad. Turbo Car fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Dec 19, 2008 |
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Dec 19, 2008 04:23
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Turbo Car posted:We buy them off of crashed STis and rebuild them (when we have time) as spares. At what rate do you find crashed STis? What sort of net do you cast? All over NA?
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Dec 19, 2008 06:48
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