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BigKOfJustice posted:Jeep meet Hummer. It won't really matter. From what I can tell, aside from the handful of modded GCs, most never leave the road. The main people that buy GC's wouldn't know the difference if it was built on a crossover platform.
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Dec 12, 2008 02:08
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I just found out that Tamiya are bringing a YJ Wrangler model back into their RC range, this time on their CR01 rockcrawling chassis, to supplement the 40-Series Toyota and Unimog models already available: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58429
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Dec 13, 2008 23:50
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InitialDave posted:I just found out that Tamiya are bringing a YJ Wrangler model back into their RC range, this time on their CR01 rockcrawling chassis, to supplement the 40-Series Toyota and Unimog models already available: It's not a true Jeep replica unless it comes with electrical problems.
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Dec 14, 2008 17:27
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Woohoo! Winter has finally hit the Northwest! Had a little fun in the snow today.
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Dec 15, 2008 00:52
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^^^ Me too! I didn't have a camera, but I had a chance to go out and try out my new 32" BFG MTs, it was pretty fun.grzydj posted:It's not a true Jeep replica unless it comes with electrical problems. Also intermittent 4WD due to hosed up vacuum hoses. Edit: Since I have this post here anyway, might as well toss up another pic, which I also posted in the "post your own ride" thread.  Brown's Camp at Tillamook State Forest. This is the obstacle they used for a recent Toyota FJ Cruiser ad, but I can't find the ad. Clamwacker fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Dec 15, 2008 |
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Dec 15, 2008 02:36
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Edit: Posted a thread since its a more general question.
MrZig fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Dec 16, 2008 |
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Dec 16, 2008 06:33
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Hey guys I don't usually post in AI but I've run into a few problems with my jeep. Usually, I use my Haynes manual to fix my 93 cherokee but I've misplaced that so I was wondering if there was anywhere online that has basically the same information. I've googled and looked through the OP but no luck. tia
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Dec 16, 2008 21:45
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Ninja Dan posted:Hey guys I don't usually post in AI but I've run into a few problems with my jeep. Usually, I use my Haynes manual to fix my 93 cherokee but I've misplaced that so I was wondering if there was anywhere online that has basically the same information. I've googled and looked through the OP but no luck.
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Dec 16, 2008 22:30
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Ninja Dan posted:Hey guys I don't usually post in AI but I've run into a few problems with my jeep. Usually, I use my Haynes manual to fix my 93 cherokee but I've misplaced that so I was wondering if there was anywhere online that has basically the same information. I've googled and looked through the OP but no luck. Alldata, which sometimes has too much information.
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Dec 16, 2008 22:32
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Thanks, I appreciate the tips guys.
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Dec 16, 2008 23:20
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Here's some video of the ghetto fabbed glasspack exhaust that I installed on my on my Jeep Comanche.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ar4dzt4TkU I think it sounds pretty good. Nice and throaty. Too bad my loving 4WD doesn't work for some unknown reason. I think it might be a vacuum issue but I really have no idea at this point. I tried to engage the 4WD yesterday and it made some groaning sounds but nothing else happened. I popped it back in 2WD and tried to re-engage it and nothing happened at all this time, no sound, no 4WD.  It's a Jeep thing I guess. 
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Dec 17, 2008 16:00
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Moved it over that way <---
Chairon fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Dec 18, 2008 |
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Dec 17, 2008 18:54
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Alright, maybe you guys can give me he a hand here. I have a 93 Cherokee, and the lock on the driver side door is jammed. They are manual locks, when I press the switch on the inside it's stubborn and doesn't feel like it's moving anything in the door. When I press the button it offers a little resistance the first time you hit(after messing with the lock) and then subsequent presses offer no resistance. I'm considering using a slim jim or a coat hanger to get it open if it's possible but I dunno where to buy a slim jim... so I figured if anyone knew how to do this it'd be you guys.
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Dec 17, 2008 19:57
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Ninja Dan posted:Alright, maybe you guys can give me he a hand here. I have a 93 Cherokee, and the lock on the driver side door is jammed. In many cases, this will work: Tools Needed
Procedure 1. Enter the Jeep through a door that still works. 2. Sit in the seat nearest the jammed door. 3. Have your friend push the jammed door against the body as hard as possible. The area around the door handle is ideal. 4. While your friend is pushing, try to unlock the door from the inside. If your friend is a weakling, you may get results by pulling the door toward you with one hand while he pushes, and using your free hand to work the lock. If trying this doesn't get you anywhere, then it's on to more exciting solutions. But this one's free, easy, and works most of the time.
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Dec 17, 2008 20:26
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Ninja Dan posted:Alright, maybe you guys can give me he a hand here. I have a 93 Cherokee, and the lock on the driver side door is jammed. They are manual locks, when I press the switch on the inside it's stubborn and doesn't feel like it's moving anything in the door. When I press the button it offers a little resistance the first time you hit(after messing with the lock) and then subsequent presses offer no resistance. I'm considering using a slim jim or a coat hanger to get it open if it's possible but I dunno where to buy a slim jim... so I figured if anyone knew how to do this it'd be you guys. Advance Auto Parts has them for like $8 in their random accessories/tools section
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Dec 17, 2008 20:47
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Molten Lava, that worked like a charm, thanks so much.
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Dec 17, 2008 23:18
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does anyone know whats up with this jeep? http://tinyurl.com/5yet77 I was thinking about buying it but why would the colors not match unless it was in an accident or something?
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Dec 18, 2008 05:13
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have it your weigh posted:does anyone know whats up with this jeep? It appears the doors were stolen and the vehicle was in a front end collision, with a frankenstien of a repair job.
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Dec 18, 2008 06:37
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HR posted:It appears the doors were stolen and the vehicle was in a front end collision, with a frankenstien of a repair job. Not to mention the miles are "unlisted".
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Dec 18, 2008 16:51
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OR the jeep HAD full steel doors, and a highline fender/hood setup, or tube fenders with a different hood. If that is the case it has probably been beaten to death off road.
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Dec 18, 2008 19:02
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I hate it when dealers do this. The car is on your lot, you have a sticker on it. Just post the drat mileage. If you're going to omit the mileage, I'm not even going to bother to look twice.
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Dec 18, 2008 22:45
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Ok I have a major update with my transfer case problems. As some of you may know, my NP242 would bang and clunk like I was hitting a pothole, only when it was in 4x4. For those who dont know, its an 89 XJ with the vacuum disconnect Dana-30, an AX15, and a 1991 NP242. Here's my update, crossposted from NAXJA: Major update. I drove around in full time 4x4 all around city and the backroads, and I was climbing a very steep hill in 2nd gear, lots of torque, and the bangs got louder and louder and finally at the top of the hill I got a collosaul BANG followed by grinding sounds and no power. I took it home in part-time as it didnt grind but the bangs in part time got tremendously worse. Finally at home, I put it in full time and let the clutch out when all I heard was a whirring sound and grinding. No movement to any wheels whatsoever. Part time and 4-low still worked. Here's my theory: My front Dana-30 was originally a vacuum disconnect, however in prep for the NP242 swap, I took out the vacuum lines and put washers to move the shift fork over permenently. Perhaps what is happening is for some reason the shift fork is letting go under different torque loads which frees up the front half the transfer case, and drive shaft. This is why I'm getting bangs in part time. The reason I'm getting worse bangs in full-time would be attributed to the fact that when the front axle 'disconnects', I lose all power since all the transfercase power is now shifted to the front end. The grinding sound I heard is exactly like the grinding sound I got when my front disconnect was malfunctioning earlier. However, when I got a camera and set it up under the jeep to see if the front driveshaft was spinning when I heard the grinding sound, it wouldn't do it anymore. Does this make sense to all of you?
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Dec 18, 2008 22:53
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MrZig posted:Ok I have a major update with my transfer case problems. As some of you may know, my NP242 would bang and clunk like I was hitting a pothole, only when it was in 4x4. Theres your problem. You probably b0rked the transfer case driving around in full-time 4. That's the WORST thing you can do to a 4x4. Full time 4 is for LOOSE surfaces (Snow, sand, very loose gravel, etc). You put your entire driveline in a serious bind there. Start shopping for a new 242.
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Dec 19, 2008 05:52
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Slack3r posted:Theres your problem. You probably b0rked the transfer case driving around in full-time 4. That's the WORST thing you can do to a 4x4. Full time 4 is for LOOSE surfaces (Snow, sand, very loose gravel, etc). You put your entire driveline in a serious bind there. Start shopping for a new 242. No, see, you're wrong. Full-time 4x4 is for.. full-time operation. On any surface. It has a center differential that lets the front and rear turn at different rates. Part-time is only for loose surfaces. Besides, all the roads here are snow-covered. From http://ezinearticles.com/?Jeep-Select-Trac-NP-242-Transfer-Case-Information&id=281045 quote:The NP 242 transfer case Full time mode opens the center differential allowing the front and rear axles to rotate at different speeds while still being linked by the transfer case. The end with the least traction will get the most torque. While this mode may have some disadvantages off road where a wheel may loose contact with the ground, it has the advantage of being usable on all paved surfaces. Part Time mode - with the center differential locks can only be used on loose or slick surfaces with out possible damage to the transfer case.
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Dec 19, 2008 06:35
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I'm thinking there was a good possibility that the TC was "stuck" in part-time mode, either because of internal failure or because of incorrect linkage adjustment. What came out when you drained the fluid? Are you willing to take the case apart?
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Dec 19, 2008 07:14
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incredibull posted:I'm thinking there was a good possibility that the TC was "stuck" in part-time mode, either because of internal failure or because of incorrect linkage adjustment. If I put it in full-time mode, the FT light comes on, and if I jack up the front end, I can spin the front driveshaft freely. If I then stick it in part time, it locks. It's definitely getting into full-time mode properly. I drained it after a few hundred KMs when I first swapped it in, and the fluid looked good. I already took it apart back before I swapped it in, and took a pic:  Click here for the full 1024x681 image. I'm going to replace the two-piece axle shaft with a one-piece and I'll let you guys know if it fixes the problem. It's just so difficult to diagnose driveline bangs and shudders without throwing parts at it. If the axle shaft doesn't fix it, I'll buy another Np242 from the junkyard (they're $90) and throw it in..
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Dec 19, 2008 07:32
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My dad and I are trying to get the lock cylinder out of my jeep cause the key is stuck in there, but we are at bit of an impass. We got the wheel off, got down through the turn signal assembly but now we can't figure out how to get the cylinder itself out. All of the guides I've consulted say to depress some switch which will release it and allegedly the switch is on the right somewhere but we've stuck a screw driver in every hole on this thing and had no luck Maybe you guys can help... here's even a picture of the bastard.
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Dec 20, 2008 21:23
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incredibull posted:I hate it when dealers do this. The car is on your lot, you have a sticker on it. Just post the drat mileage. If you're going to omit the mileage, I'm not even going to bother to look twice. I don't trust dealers where they have offices inside of a corrugated steel trailer.
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Dec 20, 2008 21:33
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MrZig posted:No, see, you're wrong. Full-time 4x4 is for.. full-time operation. On any surface. It has a center differential that lets the front and rear turn at different rates. Part-time is only for loose surfaces. Besides, all the roads here are snow-covered. That's correct. Theres 242 in the HMMWV/H1 [242 with larger chains/gears] with no 2WD mode. The 242 can run all day long in 4WD mode unlocked. You can run 4WD in HL mode on solid surfaces in a pinch if you need to, it won't do any wonders for your tires on turns though. I had to do this once, I was caught up the coast, a few hours away from anywhere when the little nylon pads on my shift forks wore out. I lost 4wd open and had to fully engage the t/c to 4HL to get it back home. For those curious here's a "full time" 242 out of an H1.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. You can see the cooling loop underneath the chain which I haven't found on any of the jeep models. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Dec 20, 2008 |
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Dec 20, 2008 21:46
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Another "Should I buy this?" reply.. It's actually a pretty good deal for this area, but I'm worried about the damage to the rear fenders. More specifically, how big of a pain in the rear end is it going to be to fix? http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/964491790.html overflow fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Dec 21, 2008 |
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Dec 21, 2008 00:36
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Ninja Dan posted:My dad and I are trying to get the lock cylinder out of my jeep cause the key is stuck in there, but we are at bit of an impass. We got the wheel off, got down through the turn signal assembly but now we can't figure out how to get the cylinder itself out. All of the guides I've consulted say to depress some switch which will release it and allegedly the switch is on the right somewhere but we've stuck a screw driver in every hole on this thing and had no luck Maybe you guys can help... here's even a picture of the bastard. Use a thin screwdriver in this slot and pry upwards a bit. If I remember its a little "tab" on the tumbler. Firmly pull the key as you are doing this. I think the key needs to be in "run" mode to release it. I fiddled with mine for about 5 minutes and it finally came out. Once you get it out you will see it's dead simple. I tossed my old tumbler or I could get a pic for ya of the tab.. 
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Dec 21, 2008 03:06
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Thanks, that's what I thought. Just took a little more fiddling than I thought it would but I finally got it out.
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Dec 21, 2008 04:21
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overflow posted:Another "Should I buy this?" reply.. It's actually a pretty good deal for this area, but I'm worried about the damage to the rear fenders. More specifically, how big of a pain in the rear end is it going to be to fix? For that price, I'd leave the damage unless you want to fix it yourself. If you were in the southwest, you could saw off some of the body work and make it a buggy, besides the rear fenders get in the way sometimes if you really want to put some big rear end drive train upgrades and wheels on it. I'm still kicking myself for not buying a one owner cherokee for 500$ with a head gasket problem 
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Dec 21, 2008 09:24
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What is the general consensus on 1999-2004 jeep grand cherokees with the 4.0 engine? I had a 98 ZJ 5.9l which I loved but it had alot of electrical issues and stalled in cold weather and got like 8 mpg so I got rid of it.
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Dec 21, 2008 09:35
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dundun posted:What is the general consensus on 1999-2004 jeep grand cherokees with the 4.0 engine? I had a 98 ZJ 5.9l which I loved but it had alot of electrical issues and stalled in cold weather and got like 8 mpg so I got rid of it. They're the same big and heavy truck, but with the 4.0 it would have less power and maybe marginally better gas mileage, but would run forever. Classic Cherokee might be better if you're looking for a smaller, lighter SUV that's still a Jeep.
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Dec 21, 2008 23:14
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Alright, I'm back again. Let me know if this is not the thread to ask for this kind of advice but you guys seem pretty willing to help and I really really appreciate it. So the whole reason I've been tearing my steering column apart is because my key was stuck in the ignition, it would turn forward, and start fine but if you tried to turn it all the way back it wouldn't let the key out. We've got the whole steering column taking apart and nothing LOOKS broken but I'm pretty inexperienced with cars. It's not the cylinder itself because it releases the key fine when you have it out of the column. Anybody else run into this problem before?
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Dec 22, 2008 00:36
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overflow posted:Another "Should I buy this?" reply.. It's actually a pretty good deal for this area, but I'm worried about the damage to the rear fenders. More specifically, how big of a pain in the rear end is it going to be to fix? As BigKOfJustice mentioned, if you're just driving this as a winter beater, or if you aren't worried about how the vehicle looks, I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure you're up to Lake/Cook County codes for lights and markers and run it. Hard to tell from the photos, but I would say $500-$1000 for body work, paint, fenders and miscellaneous parts, shop-dependent. I would give it a firm: "gently caress it". But more importantly, for $1650: 1) Mileage: Whenever a craigslist flipper fails to mention mileage in the post, it makes me wonder. 2) Underbody and Engine bay: Is it completely rusted out/corroded? Will it still be drivable a year from now? 3) Interior: Did Michael Bay have dog fights in there, or would you not be terrible embarrased driving a potential mate around in it? I bought my 98 on craigslist and never checked the underbody aside from the leaf springs and coil springs and that might catch up to me this winter. Good luck!
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Dec 22, 2008 08:37
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I live in NY, and the weather is getting worse now that winter is here. I drive a 2005 Jeep Liberty and I will be doing a lot of driving this year and I want to take advantage of my Jeep's added traction by using its 4x4 capabilities. I read through the manual a bit but I am a little confused. Would anyone mind answering a few questions for me: 1) Can I shift from 4x2 into 4x4 while the vehicle is in motion? The manual said at one point no because it won't properly synchronize, but at another part it said it can be shifted going 2-3 miles per hour and it's preferred that way. 2) Which should I use if I am driving in the snow? Lo Mode, or High Mode? And how do I shift between them? I can't seem to move the lever smoothly, and I feel like I can only switch into LoMode. Any other guidance/advice would be appreciated. Thank you!!
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Dec 23, 2008 03:52
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Got my new bumpers on a couple months back; Took it down to the Bad Lands off road park in Attica, IN  
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Dec 23, 2008 07:59
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If this is against the rules, let me know. Here it is. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110329629501 In case anyone wanted a Wrangler that has been taken care of. I'm just wanting to get what I have in it. If a goon gets it you will get much more than advertised. (Various Parts etc)
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Dec 23, 2008 15:27
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