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Eye_Pennies posted:Yes it is caulked but the caulk is peeling away all around the edge of the window fitting, but especially at the top. That looks like it is most likely condensation. How much sun does that window get? My guess is not much at all. If the window can open, I'd suggest that you open it a crack so that any moist air can escape as the condensation evaporates. If you don't get any sun in that spot, a de-humidifier in that room should take care of it also. This is all after you have cleaned the mould and re-applied the No-More-Gaps.
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Dec 4, 2008 06:51
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FYAD KNIGHT posted:That looks like it is most likely condensation. How much sun does that window get? My guess is not much at all. If the window can open, I'd suggest that you open it a crack so that any moist air can escape as the condensation evaporates. Its quite a bright room but there is a large tree outside the window which probably blocks out quite a lot of light. Thanks for all the advice. Will crack on with the de-moulding today.
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Dec 4, 2008 07:41
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I'm trying to repair a fridge I got of craigslist for 50$. It's a kenmore 10650542001 coldspot side by side from 2001. Guy says the compressor wouldn't turn on. It seems to have a bad pump relay or start device. Supposedly the replacement part changed from the original design because of multiple failures. The guy included the parts to fix it, but no instructions. I've taken some pics of everything... hoping someone can help me figure out how it goes together. There are three prongs on the side of the pump, and then one ground connector on the chasis of the pump Here are all the parts it came with, the white box with burn marks enclosed the orld relay which has since been redesigned. The picture of the parts kit shows that it includes two of three of those white things. One is obviously older looking. .jpg) Heres the side of the pump, with one of theese little white things on where I think it goes. The ground tab can be seen in the upper right area, above the prongs. .jpg) Heres how I think the black thing goes on .jpg) And here are the only two loose wires, with the extender thing that came with the parts kit clipped in. .jpg) Also if someone could clue me in as to what these parts do for the motor, I'd appreciate it. I'm kind of puzzed, because I have only two wires (no ground?) and 4 connectors including the ground tab on the motor itself. ease fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Dec 6, 2008 |
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Dec 6, 2008 15:59
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I'm considering buying a couple of guitar hooks and hanging my guitar collection on one of the walls of my bedroom, and this means that I have to drill a couple of holes in the wall. However, past experiences from both myself and my housemates learns that drilling holes in that particular wall can be quite problematic, and as a result, the current ratio between clean, tidy holes and huge, nightmarish craters is a bit discouraging. So, my question is, what tools and techniques should I use to ensure a clean drill? The wall consists of a thin (~1-2 millimeters) layer of white plaster, followed by a thick layer of soft, gray stone. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it's a bit 'gravelly' and quite loose, up to a point where you can dig a sizable hole in it using nothing but a finger, which I guess is the source of past drilling disasters. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Dec 7, 2008 15:24
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From Earth posted:I'm considering buying a couple of guitar hooks and hanging my guitar collection on one of the walls of my bedroom, and this means that I have to drill a couple of holes in the wall. However, past experiences from both myself and my housemates learns that drilling holes in that particular wall can be quite problematic, and as a result, the current ratio between clean, tidy holes and huge, nightmarish craters is a bit discouraging. So, my question is, what tools and techniques should I use to ensure a clean drill? The wall consists of a thin (~1-2 millimeters) layer of white plaster, followed by a thick layer of soft, gray stone. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it's a bit 'gravelly' and quite loose, up to a point where you can dig a sizable hole in it using nothing but a finger, which I guess is the source of past drilling disasters. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I think you are describing drywall? If you are anchoring guitar hangers into just drywall, I hope you don't care about your guitars too much. What you want to do is find a stud (wood 2x4s running vertically that the drywall is being supported by) and drill and screw into that. Studs on most homes are 16" apart on center. You can find them by either trying to get lucky, and measure from an inside corner in 16" intervals out. I do it usually by just tapping the wall and listening for a change in pitch. Tapping drywall in between to studs will obviously sound hollow and will resonate a little more than where a stud is. Tap quickly with your knuckle as you go down the wall and try to listen for changes in the sound. You should notice that every 16", the sound changes. Or you can buy a stud finder, which I own, but don't use too much. It's a little electronic device that some how senses where the stud is behind the wall and will beep at you when it finds one. For a novice, a stud sensor can avoid causing multiple (test holes). Read the instructions on your unit, and you'll be able to locate the stud pretty accurately every time. ease fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Dec 7, 2008 |
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Dec 7, 2008 17:42
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I'm not fakeposting, I just don't know a whole lot about these things (which is why I'm asking), and I might have trouble describing everything because English isn't my first language. Also, I don't think it's drywall. From what I've seen of the less successful holes around the house, the material I described is at least five centimeters thick (which is already more than most drywall sheets), and I'm fairly sure that all walls around the house consist mainly of this material. There most definitely isn't a hollow space directly behind it.
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Dec 7, 2008 18:04
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From Earth posted:I'm not fakeposting, I just don't know a whole lot about these things (which is why I'm asking), and I might have trouble describing everything because English isn't my first language. Take a picture? Houses/apartments can be made out of some weird poo poo. I discovered in our apartment we can't hang anything on one wall because there is METAL behind the plaster. The furnace room is on the other side and I think there's some sort of fireproofing material.
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Dec 7, 2008 18:11
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From Earth posted:I'm not fakeposting, I just don't know a whole lot about these things (which is why I'm asking), and I might have trouble describing everything because English isn't my first language. I didn't mean to insult you, it was just that you sounded like you knew it was drywall because you described it right. A 5 cm thick was is kinda hard to imagine tho.
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Dec 7, 2008 18:18
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So, we are having a baby this month and doing some last minute things around the house. One thing that I want to take care of is the draft from the attic. We have steps going up to the attic from the hallway, that just go into the open attic. I know other attics have a piece of wood with insulation on the back of it that you pull over to keep the cold out. There is an old piece of wood up there that looks like it might fit, but it's falling apart and there is no insulation. The door from the hallway isn't solid wood, but luan (?). What is the cheapeast/easiest option here? Put some insulation on the back of the hallway door? Weatherstripping on the bottom of the door?
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Dec 7, 2008 18:57
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Not Memorable posted:Take a picture? Houses/apartments can be made out of some weird poo poo. I discovered in our apartment we can't hang anything on one wall because there is METAL behind the plaster. The furnace room is on the other side and I think there's some sort of fireproofing material. It's a bad picture, but this show the gray material I'm talking about, as well as the drilling disaster I'm trying to avoid.  (Disclaimer: My landlord is responsible for this mess, I had nothing to do with it) It now occurs to me that it's probably just a type of concrete. I really don't know why I didn't think of that any sooner, but the question about drilling tools and technique still stands.
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Dec 7, 2008 21:22
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From Earth posted:It's a bad picture, but this show the gray material I'm talking about, as well as the drilling disaster I'm trying to avoid. This poo poo looks like damp concrete - I'd run a mile, but as you don't have the option, press a piece of timber against the wall and drill through that - this should help with the crumbling. Use a masonry bit, though it looks like you could use a spoon. Drill nice and deep and use the longest anchor you can find. Last point - report back regardless of the result, you know we're just as happy with a disaster as a success. Good luck
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Dec 7, 2008 21:35
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In the world of old-school phones, the RJ10 connector is used to connect the telephone handset to the base, right? And RJ11 is the usual connector for residential phone-to-wall connections? I'm asking because I'm trying to build this PC headset to Cisco IP phone adapter out of wires I have on hand, and it calls for an RJ10 connector, which I hope to source from an old phone handset cable.
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Dec 8, 2008 06:38
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Comrade Milton posted:Caveat: I am not at all familiar with CAD software. I use Google Sketchup (http://sketchup.google.com/) to design my woodworking projects. There's also a plugin for it that claims to provide a cut list and board layout (http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/daltxguy/blog/5143). I haven't tested the plugin, so I have no idea how well it works.
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Dec 9, 2008 06:31
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Recently bought a 25 year old house that has obviously been worked on by budget contractors. Recently I've been fixing a lot of the simple electrical stuff and decided to try to fix the light above my entryway. edit-- got it working. It took way too long and the consumption of too many beers, but I got it. dinozaur fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Dec 11, 2008 |
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Dec 10, 2008 20:57
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Sir Cottonsocks fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Dec 17, 2008 |
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Dec 17, 2008 02:55
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Andy! posted:. Now I'm intrigued.
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Dec 17, 2008 20:54
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This lamp shade has a clip on attachment but I want to know if there's any way to get it so it attaches to the 2 receptacles around the socket or a ring mounting where I screw in the light bulb to attach it.
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Dec 17, 2008 23:33
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qlat posted:This lamp shade has a clip on attachment but I want to know if there's any way to get it so it attaches to the 2 receptacles around the socket or a ring mounting where I screw in the light bulb to attach it. Updating from a tungsten bulb to a CFL I'm guessing? I don't really think there is a way to do it other than getting creative with a coat hanger.
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Dec 17, 2008 23:49
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qlat posted:This lamp shade has a clip on attachment but I want to know if there's any way to get it so it attaches to the 2 receptacles around the socket or a ring mounting where I screw in the light bulb to attach it. Cable ties (aka zip ties) could work. Cut the loop out, bend the wire 90 degrees downward, and zip tie it to the receptacle.
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Dec 18, 2008 02:41
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Buy a replacement lamp harp. I've seen them for sale at K-Mart, but you can probably get one for less than a dollar at a dollar store, or maybe even way less (with new [to you] lamp included) at a thrift store.
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Dec 18, 2008 04:49
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Buy a replacement lamp harp. I've seen them for sale at K-Mart, but you can probably get one for less than a dollar at a dollar store, or maybe even way less (with new [to you] lamp included) at a thrift store. 
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Dec 18, 2008 10:04
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qlat posted:How would the harp attach to the shade? The harp attaches to the lamp at those "receptacles" and goes up and around. Once you're far away from the bulb, there are plenty of attaching options. Zip ties, tape, glue, solder, welds, etc. Or you just ditch that shade and get one that's harp-compatible.
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Dec 18, 2008 13:21
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I'm making a Christmas gift for someone. My idea involves a self-contained thing (either batteries or just one AC cord) in which there is a button that plays a small sound clip from a speaker when pressed. What would be the simplest and most cost-effective way to make something like this? The sound would be my own recording.
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Dec 19, 2008 02:36
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dakana posted:What would be the simplest and most cost-effective way to make something like this? The sound would be my own recording. This would be the simplest. You can probably find one locally for a decent price.
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Dec 19, 2008 07:28
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Where can I look for advice and opinions for a refrigerator? This is the closest thing we have to a homeowners' subforum, and I haven't seen much on this. Consumer reports is surprisingly unhelpful, cnet doesn't have a lot on large home appliances, and I don't know where to look for some good advice here. Before blowing $1200 on a fridge, I want to make sure that it's not something we'll be disappointed in for the next eight years. If you have a recommendation, that would be helpful, but I guess I'm just looking for any good resources others know about.
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Dec 20, 2008 06:00
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Local Yokel posted:If you have a recommendation, that would be helpful, but I guess I'm just looking for any good resources others know about. Word of advice though. I have a side-by-side model, and after using it for a few years, I wish I got a different one. Feels like I can't get as much in there as I could with my smaller freezer on the top model. Not too fond of the slide-out freezer models because the slide out mechanisms waste a lot of space to me. Water dispenser/filter is very nice, as is an ice maker (I don't use my ice too much because the ice always tastes freezer burned. That's what ya get for frost free freezers, I suppose.)
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Dec 20, 2008 06:16
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That's cool, thanks. I think I may end up getting a side-by-side. It's just me and my wife, and we rarely need that much space in the fridge or freezer. We've just been looking forward to water and ice in the door, rather than grabbing the (somehow always empty) brita pitcher. I really miss that convenience. Ha! They recommend a Hot-point for a side-by-side. For the last eight years of my life Hot-Point has been synonymous with the cheapest appliance that the dorm housing, rented college houses, and cheap apartments could find. I'm surprised they make some decent product.
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Dec 20, 2008 16:30
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I have to bug my super to purge air out of the heating system so it stops making that goddamn annoying droning noise which keeps me awake at night. This is something he could do without much fuss, right? I mean, if the system is modern enough to support such a thing without too much trouble.
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Dec 22, 2008 16:09
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My landlord neglected to plow the driveway of my building. Whats the best way to get rid of the inch-thick layer of ice I just busted my rear end on ?
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Dec 22, 2008 22:47
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IDemandSatisfaction posted:My landlord neglected to plow the driveway of my building. Whats the best way to get rid of the inch-thick layer of ice I just busted my rear end on ? I'd start with a wooden-handled lawsuit, and follow it up with some salt and sand. Question: Why is hot water from my propane water heater significantly colder during the first shower of the morning? There is no timer, and letting the shower run for even 10 minutes doesn't help. Subsequent showers, provided that there's a 20-30 minute wait after the first are nice and toasty. If it was a thermostat issue, wouldn't there be a temp problem all the time?
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Dec 23, 2008 01:05
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Richard Noggin posted:I'd start with a wooden-handled lawsuit, and follow it up with some salt and sand. Does your system store hot water? If so, what is its capacity? From the sound of it, the water is heated but then not maintained in the storage tank, so overnight it is cooled to the temperature of the first shower. When the first shower happens, the water is drained and fresh hot water is then made and stored in the tank. Since there is less time the hot water is sitting there, it has less time to cool. Mordialloc fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Dec 23, 2008 |
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Dec 23, 2008 04:23
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It's a 40 gallon heater, so it is stored.
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Dec 23, 2008 13:18
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How old is the system? Has this been a recurring issue, or something that has started recently? Also is the unit located inside or outside? And how cold does it get where the HWS is?
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Dec 23, 2008 13:42
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As far as I know, it's ~15 years old. It's been a problem since we've owned the house (5 years). It's located in a utility closet in my garage, which gets pretty cold - easily below freezing in the garage, but probably slightly above in the closet due to the furnace and water heater. Unfortunately, I don't have the option of relocating it as we don't have a basement.
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Dec 23, 2008 16:25
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My basement bedroom in my new house doesn't have a return for the air conditioning system. When I have the door closed the pressure inside the bedroom can't equalize, so the AC unit can't push much air in. After some googling, I found a site on the Dept of Energy website which recommends installing jump ducts or transfer grills on all new construction. Has anyone attempted to retrofit a jump duct? I suppose I could just tear out one side of the drywall, but I just painted everything. I should mention that a big concern of mine with a jump duct is privacy(noise, light, etc). I suppose ideally I would have the return go back to the AC unit, but I really don't know enough about my options here. Anyone experienced this? dinozaur fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Dec 24, 2008 |
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Dec 24, 2008 06:23
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Richard Noggin posted:As far as I know, it's ~15 years old. It's been a problem since we've owned the house (5 years). It's located in a utility closet in my garage, which gets pretty cold - easily below freezing in the garage, but probably slightly above in the closet due to the furnace and water heater. Unfortunately, I don't have the option of relocating it as we don't have a basement. Well that rules out the issue of a broken system. The problem is likely with the amount of time the hot water is exposed to a cold clime when not in use. Things you could try to battle the problem (with limited results maybe) could be to put an insulative cover on all pipes in and out of the unit to block off any extra heat escape. If it was something you were inclined to fix or replace, I would look at an instantaneous system. There's no storage tank so no lower temp water and it wont run out. The down side is that it can use more gas to heat as there is a shorter time that the water can be exposed to the heat source.
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Dec 24, 2008 07:55
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Yeah, it is probably about time to replace it. I've heard bad things about having a tankless on a well though, due to the pressure changes that come from the well pump cycling.
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Dec 24, 2008 13:21
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Richard Noggin posted:Yeah, it is probably about time to replace it. I've heard bad things about having a tankless on a well though, due to the pressure changes that come from the well pump cycling. If that is the case, then I would look at ways to overcome the heat loss where it is located. Things like cladding, extra insulation on the tank and a hotter water temp are things that may help. A hot water plumber in your area may be more helpful though as they would have more experience in dealing with your problem and how best to combat it.
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Dec 24, 2008 22:50
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Maybe I'm just retarded and i couldnt find it but is there an IRC fix it fast?
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Dec 28, 2008 22:01
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Richard Noggin posted:Yeah, it is probably about time to replace it. I've heard bad things about having a tankless on a well though, due to the pressure changes that come from the well pump cycling. If you have/get a tank with a pressurized internal bladder, you'll be fine with a tankless heater as the bladder keeps the pressure constant. Basically, it's a bag inside of the pump tank that holds the water. The tank is then pressurized and keeps X amount of pressure on the bag at all times so you end up with even pressure while the tank is draining/refilling. I thought they were commonplace, but apparently they're not.
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Dec 29, 2008 02:30
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