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synthexic posted:1) Can I shift from 4x2 into 4x4 while the vehicle is in motion? The manual said at one point no because it won't properly synchronize, but at another part it said it can be shifted going 2-3 miles per hour and it's preferred that way. High range is shift-on-the-fly. Pull and go. You may need to let off the gas for a few seconds while it completes the shift. Jeep used to say you could shift "at any legal speed," they now say 55 or under. Low range, you should already be in high range. Shift the transmission into neutral. In one smooth motion, pull the transfer case shifter into neutral, push it right, and pull it into 4Lo. You can shift into low either from a stop or rolling at 2-3 miles per hour. It's easier if you're rolling. quote:2) Which should I use if I am driving in the snow? Lo Mode, or High Mode? And how do I shift between them? I can't seem to move the lever smoothly, and I feel like I can only switch into LoMode. Start out in high. If you're moving slowly and need the extra grunt you can shift to 4Lo. Take note of the maximum speeds in the manual; you will grenade your transfer case if you try to cruise along like a maniac. Depending on the snow, you may be better in 2WD. The transfer case shifter should stop at Neutral and require you to push it away from you to move into 4Lo. If that's not happening, something's weird. Maybe it's you, maybe it's the Jeep.  It should lock in at each of the positions, so if you're expecting it to be smooth like the gearshift, it won't be.
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Dec 23, 2008 19:48
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http://www.jeep.com/en/4x4/systems_by_vehicle/ Is neat for whichever Jeep you have.
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Dec 23, 2008 20:07
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Molten Llama posted:Start out in high. If you're moving slowly and need the extra grunt you can shift to 4Lo. Take note of the maximum speeds in the manual; you will grenade your transfer case if you try to cruise along like a maniac. Depending on the snow, you may be better in 2WD. 2 wheel rear/2H: Good times in summer and light rain. 4H: Let off the gas and ease it into 4H in accumulated snow, heavy rain, and sheet ice. This will let you speed up faster, but does not allow you to slow down any faster. 4L: Don't use this. OK, if you are driving very slowly, like 5mph, through deep snow or across rocks or on sand, there are instructions in the owners manual in the glove box which you should read thoroughly before using it. Wait, why are you driving it across sand? Where are you going again? Just call me first if you are thinking about using it. I've only put mine in 4L once to test it. When my parents' driveway had 16" of snow in it last week, 4H did the trick quite nicely.
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Dec 24, 2008 00:51
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Allow me to add this, and this is a situation that you might actually run into synthexic... 4L is an excellent tool for descending nasty snow-covered, oh-poo poo steep hills, if you can safely stop at the bottom of the hill to disengage. When it snows hard, one hill in my neighborhood is practically unmanageable without it. I stop at the top, put it in 4L, and ride it all the way down in 1st gear. Keeps it straight and slow without ever having to use the brakes. Using 4H with your transmission in 1st (manual AND auto) also does the same thing for descending steep slippery hills, but with much less engine braking to help you stop.
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Dec 24, 2008 01:36
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Alright, so after tearing apart the whole steering column my dad and I finished up the work on the ignition lock, everything is working great. Then we put the wheel back on and much to my dismay there is a snap/clicking when I turn it coming from the engine compartment. When you turn it one way it does for a second and then it does it again when you turn it the other way. We looked in the engine compartment and can see that it is coming from a coupling on the steering shaft. I have looked all over alldata and autozone and can't find anything about this... any ideas? I can get a picture of the coupling if needed.
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Dec 24, 2008 05:24
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Molten Llama, xopher.white, incredibull: thank you very much for the help!
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Dec 24, 2008 06:52
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Ninja Dan posted:Alright, so after tearing apart the whole steering column my dad and I finished up the work on the ignition lock, everything is working great. Then we put the wheel back on and much to my dismay there is a snap/clicking when I turn it coming from the engine compartment. When you turn it one way it does for a second and then it does it again when you turn it the other way. We looked in the engine compartment and can see that it is coming from a coupling on the steering shaft. I have looked all over alldata and autozone and can't find anything about this... any ideas? Pics please.  Might want to hit up cherokeeforum.com also. Also Naxja.org and jeepforum.com. They have been a GREAT help. What year is your XJ Again?
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Dec 24, 2008 07:48
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Whoops... post is not edit.
Ninja Dan fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Dec 24, 2008 |
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Dec 24, 2008 09:07
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It's a 93 Cherokee, just a 2 wheel drive. Here is the offending bastard: The thing circled in red is what shifts and I assume causes the clicking:  For refrence just to the right is where the shaft goes into the drivers compartment. Here are some more pics, if it helps. .JPG) Click here for the full 1024x768 image. .JPG) Click here for the full 1024x768 image. .JPG) Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Ninja Dan fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Dec 24, 2008 |
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Dec 24, 2008 09:14
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Ninja Dan posted:It's a 93 Cherokee, just a 2 wheel drive. Here is the offending bastard: Here is a link to some great info on greatlakesxj.com. They even have your year. Enjoy. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html
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Dec 24, 2008 23:21
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Thanks Slack3r, that didn't have quite what I needed but it had lots of other useful information. Alright, so basically I have to replace that part of the steering shaft. While I'm waiting for that part to arrive I've decided to look at the lock in my driver side door which has been giving me trouble. I have manual locks and they like to stick in the locked position, I've tried spraying silicone lubricant in there but it didn't really help. Anyone here had problems with stubborn locks? I've got the door panel off but from there can't see anything wrong... thought I'd ask for advice here before tearing in any farther.
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Dec 28, 2008 04:11
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Ninja Dan posted:I've got the door panel off but from there can't see anything wrong... thought I'd ask for advice here before tearing in any farther. If adjusting the latch doesn't get you anywhere (generally it won't for this problem, but it doesn't hurt to try) and the rods don't appear to be bent out of whack, the solution is to replace the latch.
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Dec 28, 2008 05:49
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I believe I have fixed my NP242 'bucking/banging' problem in 4x4. As I've said before, when in 4x4 and especially full-time, I would get a BANG now and then and one time it got so bad that I heard a BANG and then nothing but grinding sounds. I knew it wasn't popping out of gear because the lever never moved, and the 4x4 light's never changed or went out. The problem? My front vacuum disconnect. During the time I swapped the NP242 in, I moved the shift fork over with washers and nuts to permenently engage the two-piece axle shaft. I suppose it was either grabbing or shifting enough under different torque loads to cause it to free up and case the bang and grinding sounds. I spent the last few days tearing apart my front end and replacing the whole two-piece design with a simple one-piece shaft from the junkyard (off an '89 with an NP242 no less) and took it for a spin today. The results? Beautiful, beautiful full-time 4x4 with no more horrible banging sounds underneath. I drove for an hour and not ONCE did I get any odd noises. I took it up multiple hills, revved the crap out of it, cruised, etc, and couldn't get it to bang once. Problem hopefully solved! TLDR: Front vacuum disconnect must have been screwing up. Replaced with single-piece shaft and all is well! Winter is fun again!
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Dec 28, 2008 08:25
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4.0 spark plus question for y'all. Last month I swapped in a set of Champion Truck Plugs into my '04 Wrangler 4.0, replacing the OEM plugs that the PO left in, which were ancient and blown out well over .080. I left the Champions gapped to the recommended gap of .035. Since then, I get a light ping at slight load/light throttle, like going up hills. It goes away if I give it much more gas, or if I feed it 89 octane. I don't have any codes, and the engine otherwise runs great. I haven't tried any different plugs yet. I've heard that late year 4.0s actually work better with .040 gap, but haven't gone there yet either. There doesn't seem to be a very wide selection of heat ranges available. Does anybody have bad luck with the Champion Truck Plugs? They came highly recommended on several Jeep sites, and I looked all over for them. I'm thinking about going back to the OEM NGKs.
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Dec 28, 2008 08:31
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I need a bit of help. I am looking to get a Jeep again, but torn on what to get. I am looking for some advice on what people have used on the trail. I am a light off roader. Nothing major, but I do like to take the road less traveled. I am not afraid of scratches. My dilemma is what Jeep to get. I have owned a 2003 Wrangle Sport and enjoyed it. Now I am looking at a 2005 Wrangler Rubicon, a 2007/2008 Rubi, or getting a Liberty/Cherokee of some sort. What have people found to be the capabilities of the Liberties (2005 to current)? Do they handle well on the trail? Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Dec 30, 2008 01:51
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Starven posted:My dilemma is what Jeep to get. I have owned a 2003 Wrangle Sport and enjoyed it. Now I am looking at a 2005 Wrangler Rubicon, a 2007/2008 Rubi, or getting a Liberty/Cherokee of some sort. I'm biased, but go for the 2k7/2k8 Rubicon. Here's some photos of me with two other 4-door rubicons doing some light offroading back in October: http://picasaweb.google.com/gavitron/EagleRidgeOct08 A Cherokee/Liberty is (relatively) more luxurious, but they don't feel nearly as solid when you're on a trail. Last week, we had 8" of snow on the roads here, and I was blowing past light SUVs at 50mph, in 4h, while they crawled along at 10-15mph. Solid handling. On the trail mentioned above, we crossed paths with 3 Grand Cherokees, and with their limited-slip differentials, they had to work a lot harder to follow the same line as us. I would expect a Liberty to be similarly handicapped. Plus, I think the (4-door) JK has more cargo space than a cherokee, and is roughly the same height as a Hummer H2. (But narrower and ~$15k cheaper.)
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Dec 30, 2008 09:39
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Gavitron posted:
Of course you can get an used h2 for dirt cheap [street queen 03-04's 15-20k]. I've seen one with lockers for 30k at one place, and it was never ever off roaded like most h2's, but the JK sits a bit lower then the H2. It's about the same as an H1/H3 [I compared with a friends Jk vs my H1]. I like the JK, my friend purchased an JK from the factory [he wanted a hard top 2 door and at the time you had to special order a jk if you didn't want a 4 door]. He's debating trading it in for a new Rubicon or just paying it off and installing a lift and beefier front and rear ends so he can fit 35's or 37's. I'm trying to get him to take the blasted thing off road, I need more off road buddies who aren't h1/hmmwv/m35 owners. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Dec 30, 2008 |
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Dec 30, 2008 10:20
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A few pages back I did this narrowly avoiding running down some stupid old gently caress in a parking lot: I picked up a stock bumper, decided gently caress THAT this is a jeep and got a new one. After shopping around and trying to crawl for a new fender i went the same route i went on the bumper:   And for those of you that noticed my side mirrors were missing:  I'll post up a write up and a few more images once I do my turn signal relocate. You can see the wires tied off for now until i get them remounted to the grill. I'm not going to do anything fancy; just going to cute a hole in the grill and remount the stock ones. I'm not big into the LED thing like a lot of the jeepforum guys seem to be.
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Dec 30, 2008 23:19
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what brand are those fenders? Smittybilt XRC? AtoZ? Homemade?
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Dec 31, 2008 03:43
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I would like to join this event of a thread! My daily driven 1994 XJ. 2 door, 4.0, 5 speed with a chrystler 8.25 rear end from the factory. The PO added a 4.5" lift and 32" tires, and a ridiculous amount of stereo stuff. All this magic purchased for 1500 dollars.  It has handled everything ive thrown at it thus far, and has just rolled 190k on the factory motor with no rebuilds yet. I love it.
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Dec 31, 2008 04:31
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:what brand are those fenders? Smittybilt XRC? AtoZ? Homemade? Smittybilt XRC. I don't really recommend them. They are well constructed but unless you get extremely lucky they just don't mate up well to the car. I had to do a lot of adjustment, pounding, grinding, and cursing to get the mount points to line up. As it is now I only did the bolts to the grill and the firewall. gently caress the bolts in the wheel wells, i left the stock ones in and just put these over them. There's no way to make those line up. They also retain a decent portion of the inner fender for support. I'll get an undershot of the driver side to give you an idea of what i mean. I would say the better option is one of the solutions that is an entire fender replacement. Funny thing is the smashed up passenger side was easier.
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Dec 31, 2008 05:15
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Scrubed posted:Smittybilt XRC. I don't really recommend them. They are well constructed but unless you get extremely lucky they just don't mate up well to the car. I had to do a lot of adjustment, pounding, grinding, and cursing to get the mount points to line up. As it is now I only did the bolts to the grill and the firewall. gently caress the bolts in the wheel wells, i left the stock ones in and just put these over them. There's no way to make those line up. They also retain a decent portion of the inner fender for support. I'll get an undershot of the driver side to give you an idea of what i mean. Most tube fenders have you cut and slip the tube fenders into place. From what I have seen they all take swearing and grinding. I have seen ratchet straps used to finesse them into their correct position. I THOUGHT the smittybilts were a complete fender, unbolt the old bolt in the new. I really think if I get to that point on whatever I wind up with in the future I'm going to go with the xenon "flat fender flares".  Click here for the full 650x816 image.
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Dec 31, 2008 13:43
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I'm going to go with the xenon "flat fender flares". But, but... those are plastic! Now that Poison Spyder stopped manufacturing everything, I was saddened that I couldn't get flat fenders for my JK. Until I happened upon these: http://www.riverraider.com/ProductsTubefenders.html Now I just need to set aside the coin to buy them!
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Dec 31, 2008 21:46
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Braincloud posted:But, but... those are plastic! http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=526364&page=7 One guy bashes the poo poo out of them and they come back with a few scratches. The yellow jeep shows how you can stuff a tire with em. I'm just taking notes/making a list of options. poo poo when I do get a Rubicon I may be tickled shitless to just bolt my winch on and be done. For a while anyway.
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Jan 1, 2009 16:42
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Ok so I'm having a problem with my '96 xj country. There apparently is a killswitch that prevents your car from starting in gear. Welp mine is hosed up and is preventing me from starting in park. So essentially I cannot start my car at all. Is there anyway to bypass this switch? Would I be able to find an aftermarket one of these (I haven't been able to so far). If anyone else has had this problem let me know how you fixed it. e; its called the neutral safety switch MAJOR STRYkER fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Jan 1, 2009 |
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Jan 1, 2009 19:46
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:Ok so I'm having a problem with my '96 xj country. It should be in the center console where the gear selector is. You should esentially be able to take it out and just hook the wires together, or put a toggle on it for a theft deterrent.
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Jan 2, 2009 01:29
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Im considering buying a Jeep.. My parents had a XJ 1993 or so, got rid of it before I could drive, and miss it dearly. Now my current DD is on its last legs and time for a new vehicle. So I come asking some questions regarding jeeps. Im looking at either XJ or Wrangler or Grand Cherokee. 1. I plan on using the Jeep as a DD (work is like 5 minute drive from home) what is a high mileage for a jeep? I want to get at least a few years out of one. 2. What are the most common problems with the Jeeps? I have a Taurus and the transmissions are known for being piles of poo poo. (im suprised mines still going). 3. What should I look for when buying it used. 4. what would you reccomend of the 3 models I am looking at?
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Jan 2, 2009 02:22
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I just spent 2 1/2 weeks out of town and returned to a strange clanking noise coming from the belt area of my 1990 Cherokee 4.0l. I've driven it a bit with the noise, and today I finally figured out where it was coming from. I turn to you, Jeep Community, because I haven't the slightest clue how to go about repairing this. Click here for the full 768x576 image.  Click here for the full 768x576 image.  Click here for the full 768x576 image.
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Jan 2, 2009 23:02
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Sits on Pilster posted:I just spent 2 1/2 weeks out of town and returned to a strange clanking noise coming from the belt area of my 1990 Cherokee 4.0l. I've driven it a bit with the noise, and today I finally figured out where it was coming from. I turn to you, Jeep Community, because I haven't the slightest clue how to go about repairing this. Looks like the idler pulley. Should be a fairly straightforward replacement. A new one can be purchased at your local parts store for around $20.
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Jan 2, 2009 23:35
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Looks like the idler pulley. Should be a fairly straightforward replacement. A new one can be purchased at your local parts store for around $20. Yup. I had mine on my '92 seize up on the interstate once. Repaired it on a "cloverleaf" onramp in the middle of the night. Ran me $26 for the pulley and $24 for a new belt. Fun part is the belt adjustment. Need to loosen up all the bolts on the power steering pump and use the 13MM bolt underneath to move it in and out. Not sure on your '90 though, but on my '92 it was that way. The belt needs to be very tight or it will squeal. Simple fix.
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Jan 3, 2009 09:23
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I'll give it a looksee - the Chiltons has some vague descriptions of how to remove/adjust the belt that I'll try to follow. Thanks for the identification! I'm going to be putting in a thermostat at the same time which I'm confident I can do no problem.
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Jan 3, 2009 09:58
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Sits on Pilster posted:I'll give it a looksee - the Chiltons has some vague descriptions of how to remove/adjust the belt that I'll try to follow. Thanks for the identification! Replacing that pulley is stupid easy- I just did exactly what you're about to do to your Cherokee on my '87 Comanche, including the thermostat replacement. Unfortunately for me, I also stripped out the bottom bolt hole on when bolting everything back up, and now I'm stuck with pulling the head to get to the hole to drill/tap/helicoil it, which I'm not terribly comfortable with (I'm afraid of loving something up), or paying someone to do it for me, which I don't want to do either. Ugh, gently caress working on cars, seriously.
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Jan 3, 2009 21:26
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Slack3r posted:Yup. I had mine on my '92 seize up on the interstate once. Repaired it on a "cloverleaf" onramp in the middle of the night. Ran me $26 for the pulley and $24 for a new belt. Fun part is the belt adjustment. Need to loosen up all the bolts on the power steering pump and use the 13MM bolt underneath to move it in and out. Not sure on your '90 though, but on my '92 it was that way. The belt needs to be very tight or it will squeal. I'm having some problems getting the power steering pump to move at all. I feel like I'm missing a bolt or something. I've loosened (not removed) the two bolts on the back that seem to control the pivoting and am loosening the 13mm bolt on the right side (my perspective) until it's almost completely disconnected but the belt hasn't gained any slack whatsoever. I've had to take a part the whole air filter system to get to two of the bolts as well. There are three bolts on the front of the pump that I have slightly loosened to no avail. Edit: Pictures  Click here for the full 768x576 image. I've loosened the two bolts you can kind of see here in the rear of the PS pump.  Click here for the full 576x768 image. Now I'm loosening this 13MM bolt that, according to what I understand from you folks and my Chilton's, will adjust the position of the PS pump, but nothing is happening. The bolt is almost all the way out. Sits on Pilster fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Jan 3, 2009 |
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Jan 3, 2009 22:12
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Sits on Pilster posted:I'm having some problems getting the power steering pump to move at all. I feel like I'm missing a bolt or something. I've loosened (not removed) the two bolts on the back that seem to control the pivoting and am loosening the 13mm bolt on the right side (my perspective) until it's almost completely disconnected but the belt hasn't gained any slack whatsoever. I've had to take a part the whole air filter system to get to two of the bolts as well. There are three bolts on the front of the pump that I have slightly loosened to no avail. There is a third bolt hidden on the bottom edge of the pump I believe. It's a bear to get to as the airbox is in the way and it's tucked under the intake manifold. !!!! You need to loosen ALL the bolts. Even the top bracket bolt. !!!! Then the PS pump will basically fall down on the pivot points. I tried a hammer and busted my pulley (Plastic). Still works but has a chunk missing. Look for another bolt or two. Make sure that all the bolts are loose. Isn't that 13MM adjuster FUN! Lube up the threads on that as they have been known to rust up and even break off. Slack3r fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jan 4, 2009 |
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Jan 4, 2009 02:41
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Oh ye gods I am about to buy another XJ...
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Jan 4, 2009 03:29
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CommieGIR posted:Oh ye gods I am about to buy another XJ... Heh.. You got the "bug". Since 2006 I have owned 4 or 5 XJs now. Finally down to 2 for now.
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Jan 4, 2009 04:21
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Slack3r posted:Heh.. You got the "bug". Since 2006 I have owned 4 or 5 XJs now. Finally down to 2 for now. I now have a 1985 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with an Inline 4 2.5 And now I am buying an 1987 Jeep Cherokee Diesel 2.1l I can't stop myself!
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Jan 4, 2009 06:55
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Hey guys! Just returned from the salvage yards. Managed to pick up the trim off the instrument panel to replace mine since it got broken when my radio was stolen a year ago. Only thing is, this one is faux wood finish and the old one was matte black/grey. Click here for the full 1280x1024 image. What do you guys think would be the best way to paint it? I was considering just taking some spray paint to it but maybe someone could suggest a better way.
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Jan 4, 2009 22:20
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Ninja Dan posted:Hey guys! Just returned from the salvage yards. Managed to pick up the trim off the instrument panel to replace mine since it got broken when my radio was stolen a year ago. Only thing is, this one is faux wood finish and the old one was matte black/grey. I'd say sand as best you can and use that fusion stuff. I think it comes in OEM colors as yell as yellow and pink for DANGER TO MANIFOLD rice options. I've seen people use that fusion stuff on wrangler dash pads and it turned out swell. I image as with any paint prep is the main issue.
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Jan 4, 2009 22:44
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We harbor a couple of Jeeps here, the notable Jeep is a 79 CJ7 that has been in the family since new, purchased by my late FIL for my MIL as a Mothers Day gift in 1979. She kept the original paperwork and the service history. Check out this window sticker. I like the way AMC listed the fabulous features of the 1979 CJ7-"permanent anti-freeze", "Famous Jeep 4-wheel design", etc, as if it was all some breakthrough value added items that really, you couldn't get from just any car company. Today the CJ waits...we put a fiberglass body on it probably 9 years ago so my son could use it as his first car. It needs a freshening up and some new tires and a summer decent enough to take the top off. If I took a picture of it right now everyone would just be sad. It's likely to be my next big project again. It is complete and runs, always a good foundation for any project.
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Jan 4, 2009 23:16
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