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littlehulkster posted:If you anticipate routine stops and don't drive like a retard it's not a problem. All you have to do is slow down and use engine braking until the end. People are in love with the brake pedal though. Not if you're driving on untreated snow in hills. I had to chain up the '06 OBS which still has a set of stock RE92A tires.
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Dec 26, 2008 09:53
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CharlesM posted:Not if you're driving on untreated snow in hills. I had to chain up the '06 OBS which still has a set of stock RE92A tires. That's because RE92s are pieces of poo poo that can lose traction on dry pavement. If you get a good set of all seasons you can do just fine.
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Dec 26, 2008 17:14
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littlehulkster posted:That's because RE92s are pieces of poo poo that can lose traction on dry pavement. If you get a good set of all seasons you can do just fine. Yeah, some of the more decent all-seasons like the RE960as don't differ that much from the performance snow tires out there (like the LM-25 or the Wintersport M3). The latter have better tread clearing designs to get though the deeper snow and slush, but you aren't going to get much of a performance gain on ice until you step up to a dedicated snow like the WS-50 or Revo1. Those are just a little too compromising for me. It was 2F Sunday night with flurries and it's going to be 67F tomorrow. I drove out to my parents house in soaking rain (we got nearly 2 inches in a 24 hour period) in the 50s on Christmas Eve (but it was 23 degrees F when I left their house last night.) In two weeks, who knows what the weather will be like. We may have 8 inches of snow on the ground by then or it could be sunny and well above freezing. Sometimes the best compromise for safety is actually a compromise across all weather conditions.
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Dec 26, 2008 17:34
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So I have a hot date to look at http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/969336526.html on Sunday. It looks super clean in the pictures, but the guy is "selling it for a friend" which sounds pretty sketchy. Should I worry too much about it as long as the pink slip VN matches the car? Apparently the timing belt and water pump were done around 100k which is good, but do the 98 Foresters still have an issue with head gaskets? Lastly, KBB Excellent is $5k, Good is $4500. Assuming everything's ship-shape and I'm paying cash, just how low should I try to go?
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Dec 26, 2008 22:04
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I'll sell you a sweet 99 Forester S with all maint. records and fresh WP and TB for $5800  Only caveat is it's currently in MA.
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Dec 26, 2008 23:32
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all i really want is a cheap winter beater for like 3k but craigslist is honestly being a pain in the rear end. WA WA WAAAA CHECK OUT MY '96 OUTBACK I WANT 6k FOR IT BECAUSE IM DUMB argh
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Dec 26, 2008 23:49
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Here's an "issue" I just had. Hit the highway on the way home, the cruise light starts flashing and the cruse button is unresponsive. I stop at a store and turn the car off, come back out and start it up, and everything is fine. The cruse control was responding to the switch. Is this just a one shot glitch, or am I going to be in the market for some new computer somewhere down the line? edit: 04 STi, Cobb uppipe and downpipe and a turbo back exhaust, along with a stage 2 flash. NASIOC is not much help, but they are pointing tward the O2 sensor. burtonos fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Dec 27, 2008 |
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Dec 27, 2008 00:33
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CC won't work and the light will flash as a result of the car throwing a CEL code. You can scan them for free at Autozone or I believe you can use your Accessport if you have one.
TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Dec 27, 2008 |
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Dec 27, 2008 01:58
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What's weird about it is, I see most people with that problem also get a CEL. Is the chip flash stopping this? Alternatively, should I bother trying to make it happen again, or consider it a done deal and call the shop?
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Dec 27, 2008 02:07
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Ribsauce posted:I can drive the manual pretty close to competent now. I drove about 3 hours and only stalled twice. You are correct, this car rules. I love the Saabaru. Thanks to this thread for the couple of posts answering my questions and helping me to decide to purchase it. as for Yakima or Thule, they're both just as good as the other and are fairly compatible at this point. as far as if you buy Thule cross bars you can put Yakima snowboard/bike racks on them and vice versa (someone correct me if I'm wrong on this). I'd recommend checking Craigslist for them if you live in a large enough city and just picking up some used cross bars since it's not like it matters if they have a few scratches or whatever. I've got Thule crossbars because they came with the car, Yakima is an Oregon company, Thule is a Swedish company. Either way you go you're good.
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Dec 27, 2008 03:46
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Ran to Autozone tonight and had them pull my CEL that showed up about 2 months ago. P0031, looks like my front 02 sensor is shot. I guess I shouldn't be surprised since the car has 88k miles on it now. I'm just glad it wasn't something more nebulous or serious. It sucks that I got to shell out about $150 for a new sensor, but oh well.
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Dec 27, 2008 09:00
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Man, I got a pretty good hookup today from a local NASIOCer. I've been looking for a decent used downpipe, 200-300 bucks was my budget. Find a guy on NASIOC who is practically giving away a bunch of stuff, as he is about to deploy and it doesnt fit his STi<parts are from a previous wrx>. I pick up, for the sweet tune of $300: random bellmouth catless DP wrapped and sprayed TurboXs TMIC with the good silicone y coupler Injen CAI< practically new> Samco engine hose kit another random CAI? Might be planning a small install day for the 31st/1st and have some peeps over to get it installed. I've got an accessport and catback exhaust already. So stage 2 is around the corner 
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Dec 27, 2008 19:00
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So, what's the latest word in brake pads that will see mostly street and about 10 or so autocrosses a year? Looks like my front brakes are just about shot. I've previously had Carbotech Bobcats up front and they seemed to do the job well, but I was wondering if there have been any other new pads on the market since then that would fill the role better.
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Dec 27, 2008 20:46
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bull3964 posted:So, what's the latest word in brake pads that will see mostly street and about 10 or so autocrosses a year? Looks like my front brakes are just about shot. HPS is probably better for autox as I think they deal with less heat better though. I've actually been thinking bobcats for my next set as apparently they'll play nicer with my track pads (XP-10).
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Dec 28, 2008 01:28
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nm posted:
No, go with the HP+ and you'll be fine. They take so little time to warm up that usually its only a "first thing in the morning" issue and even then you just press a little harder at the first stop sign. Not like you'll run through it. The HP+ will grab a lot harder and last a lot longer and they're good for lapping days without too much fade.
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Dec 28, 2008 02:53
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Lando posted:Man, I got a pretty good hookup today from a local NASIOCer. I've been looking for a decent used downpipe, 200-300 bucks was my budget. Find a guy on NASIOC who is practically giving away a bunch of stuff, as he is about to deploy and it doesnt fit his STi<parts are from a previous wrx>. If its a full hose kit, it takes a HUGE amount of time. Don't forget new clamps, the OE pinch clamps are terrible and might not work well for the silicone hoses. Also TurboXS is pretty much eBay special stuff.
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Dec 28, 2008 03:00
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Me-262 posted:No, go with the HP+ and you'll be fine. They take so little time to warm up that usually its only a "first thing in the morning" issue and even then you just press a little harder at the first stop sign. Not like you'll run through it. I've never had HP+ (as they don't make them for the LGT), but I've always thought that first run capablity (the reason Z1s are so popular) was pretty important for auto-x. I've never gotten anything resembling fade in auto-x. For track days I'll agree, but that is a very very differnet situtation.
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Dec 28, 2008 05:52
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burtonos posted:What's weird about it is, I see most people with that problem also get a CEL. Is the chip flash stopping this? The boost control system will throw a blinking light and nonfunctional CC. If you're in cold weather, run it hard in 4th or 5th, and haven't P&P'd your VF39 you'll overboost around 4k RPM like clockwork. You may have overboosted. This is very very common with Stage 2 STis and 2.5 WRXs with the VF39. If it happens again, go see if you've got a code, CEL or not. It'll read "WG High Voltage" if you've overboosted. Boost creep can blow an engine, so be careful and watch your boost in higher gears. I can't go WOT in 5th in the winter above 3.5k or else it'll overboost immediately.
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Dec 28, 2008 06:26
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Excellent! Yeah, I might have jumped on the highway a little aggressively. Now, what exactly does "p&p'd" mean in this circumstance? For that matter, is it on your list of things to do?
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Dec 28, 2008 18:04
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burtonos posted:Excellent! Yeah, I might have jumped on the highway a little aggressively. Ported and polished (and usually ceramic coated). You widen and polish the wastegate port for better flow. It prevents boost creep by making the wastegate more effective. You will need a new tune if you do this. Also to be considered is a 3-port boost gauge, either the unit by Prodrive or the GMBCS. This is the first thing I'm doing this summer, including new injectors, headers and open exhaust, that'll put me well north of 320whp on 91, 340whp on 116 with the VF39. 6-speed too.
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Dec 29, 2008 02:48
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So, I finally have my desktop setup at my new place in Nashua. There is a great set of parking lots for snow fun about a half mile from where I live. I went the whole weekend of snow on the stock summer tires and got "stuck" twice. The first time, I got plowed into a parallel parking spot and had to go over a snow ridge the long way. The second time (coincidentally the last time I went out while it was still snowing) was at the end of Rt 3 S exit 1 ramp trying to go right. There was just a build up of snow and it took me a minute to get going after having stopped. I got the snow tires put on the next day.
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Dec 29, 2008 15:31
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Any recommendations for replacement rotors for a 2005 sti? I've got the high speed braking shudder going on, and since my rotors have been resurfaced once before I'm told its a no-no to do it again.
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Dec 29, 2008 16:05
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Bampalo posted:Any recommendations for replacement rotors for a 2005 sti? I've got the high speed braking shudder going on, and since my rotors have been resurfaced once before I'm told its a no-no to do it again. It doesn't get better than DBA replacements. Try the 4000 series, not drilled. Everything good for your Subaru comes from Australia.
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Dec 29, 2008 19:19
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I had looked into those, but the idea of paying ~650 for rotors made me slightly nauseous.
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Dec 29, 2008 19:35
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Bampalo posted:I had looked into those, but the idea of paying ~650 for rotors made me slightly nauseous. You drive a Subaru hot rod, you should want to pay more.
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Dec 29, 2008 19:50
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I'd love to pay more. But what I want and what I can afford in reality rarely seem to coincide. If I had the dough i'd switch to the wrx 4 pots so I could clear some 15 inch wheels. Some day, right?
Bampalo fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Dec 29, 2008 |
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Dec 29, 2008 19:52
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Bampalo posted:If I had the dough i'd switch to the wrx 4 pots so I could clear some 15 inch wheels. Some day, right? And if you really loved your car you'd buy APRacingBrake Group-N brakes built specifically for STi...right? (I have a some if you're interested) In all seriousness, you could sell the Brembos and pay for the 4-pot conversion with money to spare. A complete conversion costs about $2k, and you'd get that for your entire set of gold stoppers.
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Dec 30, 2008 01:18
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Bampalo posted:Any recommendations for replacement rotors for a 2005 sti? I've got the high speed braking shudder going on, and since my rotors have been resurfaced once before I'm told its a no-no to do it again. Evidently this is a pretty popular company on NASIOC. I don;t know from experience though, just word of mouth. http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_rotors.php?&ad=direct?osCsid=087a5a320a486ba6da9906e2f7eeb0f2
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Dec 30, 2008 16:38
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Bampalo posted:I've got the high speed braking shudder going on, and since my rotors have been resurfaced once before I'm told its a no-no to do it again. Ugh, I have this too on my WRX. PO said he had the rotors turned and put new pads on. After doing some high speed braking after I purchased it I noticed the shudder. I figured it was time for new rotors and pads since whats on there now brakes like poo poo. Any recommendations for a good set of rotors? Im already going to put purchasing HPS pads since I have had good results with them in the past.
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Dec 30, 2008 18:29
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Keep in mind that it can be more than just the brakes that are causing shudder at high speed braking. I was having shudder as well until I rotated my tires and then it was greatly diminished. Never underestimate the effects of a tire slightly out of balance.
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Dec 30, 2008 18:44
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I have a 2005 subaru outback 2.5i. This morning the ac/heater blower got really loud and its not blowing as much as it used to. It still works on all 4 positions, but seems sad and worn out. Any ideas? Mice got into my grand cherokee awhile back and did a ton of damage, this is parked in the same spot and it sat for awhile around christmas. So I am pretty worried but have no idea how to look into the system.
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Dec 30, 2008 19:36
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Anything blocking the intake vents? It might be trying harder to pull air through a smaller opening and making more noise, but pushing less air because of the restriction.
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Dec 30, 2008 19:38
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ssjonizuka posted:Anything blocking the intake vents? It might be trying harder to pull air through a smaller opening and making more noise, but pushing less air because of the restriction. Oh yeah, good thought. Sorry for my extreme ignorance, but where would those be? We had about 3 feet of snow on the ground with a half foot on my car, then it got up to 40 and all the snow melted, then we got freezing rain, then it warmed up again, then we got more snow. I about needed a drat ice pick to open my doors this morning. This happened all while my car was parked outside, so let's hope its ice somewhere.
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Dec 30, 2008 20:01
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Begby posted:Oh yeah, good thought. Sorry for my extreme ignorance, but where would those be? Base of the windshield. From your description of how much snow you got, its probably the snow packed in there blocking it.
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Dec 30, 2008 20:13
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Agreed with Turbo Car. If it wasn't for your extended description, I had another thought could be something blocking the air particle filters for the HVAC system. I think those are behind the glovebox.
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Dec 30, 2008 20:14
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Ok, I just opened the hood and looked. The area under the windshield wipers is completely clear, I popped the hood and the grilled area under the windshield is 100% clear as well save for a couple of small leaves that I removed. I didn't notice any signs of mice around the engine, but didn't look underneath or use a flashlight. I started it up and its still doing it. I turned the blower on recirculate and it got a bit louder, but is not blowing any more air out. You can hear it outside the car as well when its idling, you can also kind of feel a slight vibration (which increases on recirculate). The noise seems to be coming from under the glove box, I assume that is where the motor is. Could it be blocked somewhere else like frozen water that leaked in somewhere? Should I find a garage and let it thaw maybe? I did drive it around for about 45 minutes this morning though, so I assume that would have warmed everything up. Begby fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Dec 30, 2008 |
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Dec 30, 2008 20:27
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on the pass side under the glove box there's a plastic tray held in by 3 plastic trim push-pins ( at least on my 08 LGT it is). About dead center of that panel is a circular depression, the blower motor is there. I'd pull the tray/cover off and look around. Might not hurt to let it thaw a bit more either...
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Dec 30, 2008 20:42
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Ok, I'll try and check this out tonight.
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Dec 30, 2008 20:49
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Ok still not fixed, here is what I did since my last post. - I stuck the car in my parents garage and my dad turned on a caterpillar full blast until it was almost 80 degrees and let it sit for 2 hours at that temp. I can guarantee the car was thawed to poo poo. After the fumes cleared I started it up and it has the same problem. - I took a much better look under the hood and underneath the car for signs of mice using a trouble light and headlamp. No nests to be found nor turds. - I popped the cover off under the glove box as ssjonizuka suggested and took a look at the blower motor. Nothing obvious, everything looks really clean, no rust and nothing was wet. There was some dark sandy looking stuff on the insulation inside the cover, but I assume that probably fell in through the glove box. I guess my next step is to check the cabin air filter then take the motor out and tinker around with it to see if a blade is broke or something is jammed in there. Anyone every pull the blower before? It doesn't look that difficult, but if someone has a link to a tutorial on that or the air filter that would be great so I don't gently caress something up. At a minimum I would like to pull the right fuses so that I don't get zapped. Previously someone linked a tutorial for me on how to pull the cabin air filter in an '05 and it had really good photos, but I can't find that thread =( Thanks everyone for the help so far.
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Dec 31, 2008 03:47
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Goons, I'll jump in here with a question. I am literally about to do an oil change in the next 10 minutes for a long trip tomorrow morning. Auto parts stores are closed, went to WalMart. I have a 2005 Outback 2.5i base (non turbo, etc, etc). I run Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-30 (in the Northeast). My question is this: I went with a Mobil 1 Filter, Model # M1-110. From what I gather, it's a "higher than normal capacity filter." (good thing?) I am not 100% certain this is a compatible model with my engine. Since junky walmart didn't have any Mobil 1 filter manuals, I was googling on my freaking phone standing there in the isle. Found some info, but nothing solid. So, if I put this filter on my car and drive off into the sunset in the morning, will I be hosed? Edit: Well, I gambled, did the change, drove around the block and everything is fine. Hope that's the case on my long trip tomorrow. hotsauce fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Dec 31, 2008 |
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Dec 31, 2008 03:51
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