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Higher than normal capacity just means that it will hold a little more oil that normal filters, so as long as you have it up to the proper lines on the dipstick, you're fine.
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Dec 31, 2008 06:14
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Mr. Powers posted:Higher than normal capacity just means that it will hold a little more oil that normal filters, so as long as you have it up to the proper lines on the dipstick, you're fine. Correct. Just look in your manual, it should list "with filter change" and "without filter change" capacities for oil changes. Just put the correct amount in, let it settle a few minutes, then check your levels. Add oil as needed, allow to settle, then check again. The first time you stop for gas, check your oil level 5 minutes after you turn off the car, while it's still warm.
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Dec 31, 2008 06:40
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hotsauce posted:Goons, If it seals up, which it did, and you checked the level, which you did, you'll be fine, which you were. I still get nervous doing my own oil, it never goes away.
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Dec 31, 2008 08:27
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What fluids do I use in my diffs/gearbox? I drive pretty hard, and the car has 50k on it now. I figure it's time to get them changed out.
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Dec 31, 2008 16:07
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Finally a chance to test out my snow tires on the WRX. The snow is back (after our first two feet melted).
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Dec 31, 2008 17:03
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These may be stupid questions, but I read about 10 pages of the thread and didn't see any answers... I've wanted an STi since they came to the US but I'm old and cranky about being uncomfortable since my commute went from 20 minutes a day to 2+ hours a day a couple of years ago. I really like the STi except for the fact that I don't have enough legroom (in 99% of Japanese cars, for that matter), even the Legacy Spec B. I mentioned moving the seat rails to a salesman at one point and he told me that the rear of the rail was welded to the floor pan, making it insanely difficult. So... is that true? I didn't pull up carpet in anything I was test driving to check. Are there any aftermarket seats that give more legroom without kidney pounding harshness *and* install without welding? If the seat swap does involve welding, does anybody know of any other tricks to get extra legroom in an STi? In my old 540i, there was a spring clip that could be removed to get an extra inch or so of room but I haven't found any reference to stuff like that for an STi. I'm only 6'2", but a lot of that is leg (headroom is never an issue) and I get pretty decent cramps if I have to keep my knees next to the steering wheel all the time. I'm planning on beating down dealers with leftovers in the next couple of months so I'd be willing to spend a little "extra" to make things work.
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Dec 31, 2008 22:17
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You just need a cloth seated legacy. Only Subaru car I've ever felt completely comfortable in (6'4") How much is money an issue. Really tall people get seat rails modified -- go to a junk yard and see how they're mounted up. If you're in luck, you can just relocate the holes in the rail. Then you can even use the OEM Seat (meaning you get to keep the airbag).
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Dec 31, 2008 22:41
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Got a chance to try out the new General Altimax Artic tires today, goddamn are they awesome. I would say they are at least comparable to the Nokian Hakka RSIs they replaced, if not better, especially in slush. And for how much they cost, at $65/tire, MUCH cheaper. The taller sidewall and thinner size (205/60/16) fit fine without any rub anywhere at full lock, and they look gnarly as hell on there as well 
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Jan 1, 2009 00:08
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Did you get those online somewhere? I'll need to replace my winters next year, I think, and those sound like they offer decent grip at a good price. Also provided they're offered in 17" sizes.
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Jan 1, 2009 20:27
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Fantastipotamus posted:Did you get those online somewhere? I'll need to replace my winters next year, I think, and those sound like they offer decent grip at a good price. Also provided they're offered in 17" sizes. I got them off of TireRack, but after looking again it looks like they only have 235/45/17s and they're like $105 a pop.
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Jan 1, 2009 22:05
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TurboLuvah posted:I got them off of TireRack, but after looking again it looks like they only have 235/45/17s and they're like $105 a pop.
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Jan 2, 2009 02:26
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mungtor posted:I mentioned moving the seat rails to a salesman at one point and he told me that the rear of the rail was welded to the floor pan, making it insanely difficult. They bolt in to the center tunnel and the floor, inner and outer bolts respectively. Welding them in would make taking the seats out far more difficult than it need be. The salesman is retarded.
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Jan 2, 2009 03:07
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Being a poor college student [who recently rolled an 01 Forester onto its back] I am looking at a 95 Legacy wagon. 180k miles on it, and he wants 1600 for it. Should I be scared? Anything to really watch out for?
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Jan 2, 2009 05:24
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Cirrus_Alreia posted:Being a poor college student [who recently rolled an 01 Forester onto its back] I am looking at a 95 Legacy wagon. Things to check for: Last major service and service record. The car should have had it's fluid changed at 180k (every 60k) along with the sparkplugs. The car's going to need a new timing belt in 20k miles too. If the owner is willing to let you take it for an overnight stay, spend the money to change the oil and run your finger on the inside of the oilpan. Sludge is bad and a sign of impending massive issues. This is a pretty good check of engine condition most don't know about. Other than the above, non-turbo Subarus are bulletproof, with Legacy wagons plentiful enough that getting used spare parts will be cheap.
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Jan 2, 2009 06:52
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well that was quite the trip home:   
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Jan 2, 2009 07:31
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jamal posted:well that was quite the trip home: Quite the change in conditions there, nothing a subaru can't handle though.
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Jan 2, 2009 08:26
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I really wish I could buy an Impreza right now. It snowed all day, leaving 5 or 6 inches of fluffy powder everywhere and I imagine it would be lots of fun. Parking brake cable is still broken on my Protege 5 so I haven't been having any fun. I have to be content with letting momentum around slight corners loosen up the back end and let me "drift" through them :P
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Jan 2, 2009 08:34
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Ok, took the blower fan out. It was really drat easy. Since I am not good with cars at all, I took a photo of it, can anyone tell what might be wrong by looking at it? http://www2.efulfillmentservice.com/sandbox/fan.jpg
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Jan 2, 2009 14:51
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Turbo Car posted:Things to check for: If you don't have an opportunity to do this, look underneath the oil cap. If they've kept up their oil changes the underside of the cap should be pretty clean. If it's got sludge in it, then they've skipped a few. Take a good sniff of the crankcase as well. Ask them how many km/miles since an oil change; if it has been less than 1000 km and the oil is black already, you've got some blowby.
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Jan 2, 2009 16:34
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Begby posted:Ok, took the blower fan out. It was really drat easy. I had ONE leaf in my blower, and it sounded horrible. Several hours worth of hi-speed spinning didn't chop it up either. Subaru needs to start sharpening those fan blades...
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Jan 2, 2009 17:19
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jailbait#3 posted:I had ONE leaf in my blower, and it sounded horrible. Several hours worth of hi-speed spinning didn't chop it up either. Subaru needs to start sharpening those fan blades... Oh hell yeah, the whole car was vibrating. After I pulled the fan I looked up in the heater orifice thing and noticed that the cabin air filter was just an empty frame. Upon sorting through the mass of leaves in the blower looking for mouse turds I found a bunch of ground up black foam. (no mouse turds) I think what happened is the filter was made out of the foam, it got a bunch of leaves on it, then one morning the whole filter tore apart and got sucked into the blower all at once and got chopped up. This explains the mystery black powdery/sandy stuff I found inside the cover that I removed. One nice thing is that this thing blows harder and faster than a whore on nickel day now. Those leaves must have been blocking it up pretty good. I got the car 4000 miles ago, so the previous owner must have left it parked in a forest or something and never changed the filter. So I guess if y'all haven't checked your cabin air filters in awhile, you should. edit: Here are directions for getting to the filter http://www.cars101.com/subaru/airfiltration.html Begby fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jan 2, 2009 |
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Jan 2, 2009 17:26
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Sorry if this isn't the place for this (doesn't really seem thread worthy), but what do you guys think about the 06/07 Legacy GT? Is the spec.B worth the extra effort to find? I've been looking at the maintenance records for my Audi S4 and it's loving depressing how much I've spent over the last 3 years...
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Jan 2, 2009 18:25
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DONT DO IT posted:Sorry if this isn't the place for this (doesn't really seem thread worthy), but what do you guys think about the 06/07 Legacy GT? Is the spec.B worth the extra effort to find? FYI 05 will give you a wagon with a manual and the option to not have a sunroof or leather. The 06 spec B is only worth it if you don't plan on touching the suspension. (That is thie rmain improvement). The stock base LGT handles notibly worse than the spec B, but with an upgraded suspension an LGT will be better than a Spec B (and spec B with the same suspension will be basically the same except for the lighter CAs). The 07 spec Bs get a 6-speed which is nicer than the 5 in the base LGT. It is hard to say if it is worth it or not though.
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Jan 2, 2009 21:41
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It's the STi 6-speed, so it'll run lower RPM at highways too. I'm just below 3k rpm at 80mph, and my fiancee's Outback w/ the 5-speed is at 3500rpm at like 72 or so. Also, the nav system, and 18" wheels are some of the other additions the Spec B has. Oh, and a moonroof, and the two-tone interior with the leather bits.
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Jan 3, 2009 02:03
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Fantastipotamus posted:It's the STi 6-speed, so it'll run lower RPM at highways too. I'm just below 3k rpm at 80mph, and my fiancee's Outback w/ the 5-speed is at 3500rpm at like 72 or so. The '09s have a similar cruising gearing. I am just over 3000rpm at 80 in 5th gear. I think it borrows gearing from the Legacy GT, but I may be mistaken. My RS had the gearing you are referring to, though.
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Jan 3, 2009 03:25
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Fantastipotamus posted:It's the STi 6-speed, so it'll run lower RPM at highways too. I'm just below 3k rpm at 80mph, and my fiancee's Outback w/ the 5-speed is at 3500rpm at like 72 or so. The 05-06 LGts also have a different final drive than the 07+. (The 05-06s are quicker, the 07+s get better economy) As for the other stuff, that is extra weight. The transmission, suspension, and r diff are the main differences.
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Jan 3, 2009 06:19
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I'm taking my '05 LGT in on Monday for them to take a look at my squeaky clutch pedal. Not so coincidentally, the warranty on the car expires the day after. Is there anything in particular I should get them to take a look at before it expires?
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Jan 3, 2009 06:26
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Sabotaged posted:I'm taking my '05 LGT in on Monday for them to take a look at my squeaky clutch pedal. Not so coincidentally, the warranty on the car expires the day after. Is there anything in particular I should get them to take a look at before it expires? Oh and the clutch seak is likely just a switch.
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Jan 3, 2009 06:33
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 New MY98 motor fitted to my gen 1 legacy. All the other fruits are finally on like my other post, TD05h, Sard FPR, external coilpacks etc.
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Jan 3, 2009 15:25
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nm posted:OBs have a different final drive than the LGT
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Jan 3, 2009 15:59
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kaws! posted:
That's one nifty intercooler you've got there. That's an intercooler, right?
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Jan 3, 2009 22:38
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Turbo Car posted:That's one nifty intercooler you've got there. That's an intercooler, right? Yep. The Japanese models of Legacy come with a WAIC (Water to Air Intercooler). It has a water pump, and two lines going down to the front of the car where there is a separate radiator for the coolant.
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Jan 4, 2009 04:09
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I test drove a Forester the other day and it seemed a little too sluggish. I like the Forester XT but I can't afford it right now. Can I get a Forester 2.5X and put an aftermarket turbo on it later?
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Jan 4, 2009 17:39
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palatka posted:I test drove a Forester the other day and it seemed a little too sluggish. I like the Forester XT but I can't afford it right now. Can I get a Forester 2.5X and put an aftermarket turbo on it later? You could, but it'd be one hell of a hassle. The cost/benefit ratio heavily favors dropping in a turbo motor rather than boosting the NA. Subaru NA engines can handle about 10psi before you'll lose significant reliability. Turbo engines get more boost than this from the factory and can be pushed to 400AWHP before you're going to have the same reliability issues. tl;dr - Save for an FXT into an FXS swap, or just hold off for a year and buy an FXT. Boosting NA engines is neither easy nor cheap.
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Jan 4, 2009 18:29
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palatka posted:I test drove a Forester the other day and it seemed a little too sluggish. I like the Forester XT but I can't afford it right now. Can I get a Forester 2.5X and put an aftermarket turbo on it later? I think the saying goes something like "Turboing a 2.5NA is a lot like buttsex with your GF. They'll take it, but they don't really want to."
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Jan 4, 2009 19:05
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choo choo posted:I think the saying goes something like "Turboing a 2.5NA is a lot like buttsex with your GF. They'll take it, but they don't really want to." Are the latest Foresters still using the SOHC 2.5 like the earlier Impreza and Forester NA models?
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Jan 5, 2009 07:01
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yeah they ditched dohc n/a motors in 99. Well, in the us anyway.
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Jan 5, 2009 08:41
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choo choo posted:I think the saying goes something like "Turboing a 2.5NA is a lot like buttsex with your GF. They'll take it, but they don't really want to." You're dating the wrong girls
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Jan 5, 2009 14:58
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So I went last night to a Subaru dealership near by and was $2k away from purchasing a new 08 wrx hatchback in sexy rally blue,  , but the asshat salesman wouldn't budge, so I walked away.  I checked this morning at another dealership nearby and found an identical model, without the premium package that first car had, and was ecstatic. I found however, that the car had 410 miles on it, and after talking to the salesman, found it was an 'unwind', in which the buyer had not secured financing and was forced to return it. What I'm worried about is this: I know these cars are sexy sexy fast turbo-powered beasts, which often get abused stupidly, which was what made me go looking for new instead of used WRXs, and my (stupidly paranoid) worry is that in the 410 miles this car got driven, it was clutch dumped enough to give me dozens of headaches regarding transmission/engine etc, or had unmentionable things done to it otherwise. Now tell me, is this a valid concern? Or am I just an idiot who should go buy the car now. I know that the 410 miles + unwind will give me an awesome amount of leverage when negotiating for an 08, but what should I test for in terms of the car itself? It's fully factory warrantied and good to go from that end, but is there anything in particular I should look out for? (also, i know i know the 09s have 40+ hp and sexy suspensions, but my cash is less than $25k and I'm banking on the whole last year must move deal.) Thanks!
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Jan 5, 2009 19:38
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I'm looking to pick up an 02~05 WRX. I test drove an 02 wagon on the weekend, and I'm going to echo the rest of the world in being disappointed with steering feel. Reading around (NASIOC), it seems that several things can tighten the stock rack up a bit. Aside from bushings, it seems that stiffening up the frame can help. Will the addition of fender braces (like these) and a front strut tower brace make a good enough improvement, or should I just look at swapping in the STi steering rack?
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Jan 5, 2009 19:56
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