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2002 Nissan Frontier: When its cold/first starting, I get a loud squeal when I turn the steering wheel past a certain point either direction. Full lock is the worst. It goes away after the car warms up. Loose belt? Bad power steering pump? TELL ME AI! Thanks. Also, I like to listen to the radio/charge my Iphone for an hour while at lunch. Will I kill my battery by doing this? I only drive about 2 1/2 miles each way. Sipher fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Jan 4, 2009 |
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Jan 4, 2009 21:16
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Slipping belt, slipping on your vane pump pulley. Probably need a new belt at the very least.
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Jan 4, 2009 21:42
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It only has maybe 4000 miles on that belt. Previous one snapped outta nowhere. Replace it anyway?
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Jan 4, 2009 21:47
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Sipher posted:It only has maybe 4000 miles on that belt. Previous one snapped outta nowhere. Replace it anyway? If it's giving you trouble after 4k miles, something is out of adjustment. Check the tensioners.
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Jan 4, 2009 21:57
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I was in my engine fiddling around and started up my car to take a look at the engine while it was running. Immediately, I noticed a hose spewing forth a yellowish-clear liquid that, from the smell of it, was gasoline. Also of note, while I was underneath the car, a few pieces of electrical tape were discovered, which I'm sure were patching the hose. Since this is Texas and it's usually warm, I'm assuming that the few recent days of cold weather caused the tape of unknown age to fall off. Now the questions are: what exactly is this hose called, what is it carrying, is it something I can replace easily, how much should the hose cost, and is it safe to just reapply some fresh electrical tape in the meantime until I can get some cash out and get a new hose and replace it? The hose in question, on an 88 Honda Accord LX 2.0L 2BL SOHC:  Click here for the full 1024x1280 image. If there's any confusion on the location in the image, this is the corner of the compartment closest to the driver as taken from the front.
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Jan 4, 2009 22:13
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Alright guys, say I were to wire up my own switch for my horn. I know I need a momentary switch but would I need to look for anything specific? I am considering grabbing this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062546 but I noticed it is only 0.5 amps, will that be enough?
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Jan 5, 2009 04:14
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zamin posted:I was in my engine fiddling around and started up my car to take a look at the engine while it was running. Immediately, I noticed a hose spewing forth a yellowish-clear liquid that, from the smell of it, was gasoline. Also of note, while I was underneath the car, a few pieces of electrical tape were discovered, which I'm sure were patching the hose. Since this is Texas and it's usually warm, I'm assuming that the few recent days of cold weather caused the tape of unknown age to fall off. Looks like it's running to the carburetor, so my guess given what you said is that it's a fuel line. Absolutely not safe to patch with electrical tape, absolutely not safe to drive as is. They're usually not very expensive, and given it's carburated, probably not terribly difficult to replace. REPLACE IT. Ninja Dan posted:Alright guys, say I were to wire up my own switch for my horn. I know I need a momentary switch but would I need to look for anything specific? I am considering grabbing this: Use a relay. Edit: \/\/\/ Oh, then it's probably fine. Check the specs on the relay to make sure. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jan 5, 2009 |
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Jan 5, 2009 04:18
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The switch will be going into the relay.
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Jan 5, 2009 04:19
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Can another Ninja get help with his electric work too?
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Jan 5, 2009 04:36
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TheFrailNinja posted:Alright, electric question: I have a cheap lovely Sony CD player (I've told you about it before), a model you've probably seen, I've heard of it in about 3 other vehicles. Anyway, a while back, It was on (getting power at least) and I decided to hit the AC button. The AC light goes on, the unit goes off. Since then its been off. I finally got it out with a friend's help, and I took it to a place in town where they sell/fix/whatever car audio systems. The guy there looked at it, laughed because it was a Sony, then checked out a couple things and proceeded to make it turn on. He told me something I don't remember about getting power from the antenna, and not bothering to plug it in next time. Well, it still doesn't work. My dad looked at it, we deduced that it was getting power, so we don't know what's wrong with the unit. I know the unit works, I just saw it working the other day. So we try out this old dusty tape deck from my mom's old Rav4, connect the power wire, and find out we're not getting power anymore. What the hell? I have no electrical knowledge, but my dad has enough (I think) to understand and deal with this kind of thing. Should I take it back in to the shop and see what that fella can do again? He seemed kind of jerky and impatient last time.... I remember having a antenna power wire on my radio install - I think it sends power to a possible powered antenna to raise it. It sounds like your wiring is probably done up a bit wrong - make sure you're connected to switched power, I guess?
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Jan 5, 2009 04:40
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TheFrailNinja posted:Alright, electric question: I have a cheap lovely Sony CD player (I've told you about it before), a model you've probably seen, I've heard of it in about 3 other vehicles. Anyway, a while back, It was on (getting power at least) and I decided to hit the AC button. The AC light goes on, the unit goes off. Since then its been off. I finally got it out with a friend's help, and I took it to a place in town where they sell/fix/whatever car audio systems. The guy there looked at it, laughed because it was a Sony, then checked out a couple things and proceeded to make it turn on. He told me something I don't remember about getting power from the antenna, and not bothering to plug it in next time. Well, it still doesn't work. My dad looked at it, we deduced that it was getting power, so we don't know what's wrong with the unit. I know the unit works, I just saw it working the other day. So we try out this old dusty tape deck from my mom's old Rav4, connect the power wire, and find out we're not getting power anymore. What the hell? I have no electrical knowledge, but my dad has enough (I think) to understand and deal with this kind of thing. Should I take it back in to the shop and see what that fella can do again? He seemed kind of jerky and impatient last time.... Jeez thats a huge mess of text to decypher. I dont really know what is going on in your car, but in general, you have a red wire for your positive lead, yellow lead for your presets/clock power, and black for ground. The antenna line is to raise/lower your power antenna, its not antenna itself, and isnt required for normal operation. Ninja Dan: If your using a relay, that switch will be fine. Dark Solux: I would be more concerned that your belt broke. If your PS pump freezes, it could snap the belt, why it would unfreeze is kind of a mystery, but it maybe that your pump is the problem. Typicly I just clean the belt if there is oil on it, tighten it if its loose (which being a new belt, is quite likley), and old belts can be sanded a bit to give you a little more life out of them. Belts however are cheap and easy to replace. zamin: Pretty much if you can semll gas, your in danger. The fire department wont make it in time to save your car if it catches fire, I've seen cars go up in smoke, and I've seen gronw men cry. its much funnier when its not your car Fuel lines are often quite inexpensive, and super easy to replace. The even make fuel line clamps if you have to splice yours (if for some reason you cant find a replacement line)
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Jan 5, 2009 04:46
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Krakkles posted:If it's giving you trouble after 4k miles, something is out of adjustment. Check the tensioners. Make sure the pullies are aligned and straight, too. A wobbly or misaligned pulley can eat a belt slowly.
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Jan 5, 2009 05:07
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Alright so as I understand it, I take that momentary switch hook one terminal to the wire that is going to the relay and the other terminal to a ground. Sound about right? Any idea what I could use for a ground under the dash of a 93 jeep cherokee?
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Jan 5, 2009 08:04
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This is probably gonna sound real loving stupid but here goes. Me and a bud(hes a mechanic) were changing my brake pads today on a 91 volvo. We got them changed but ran into an issue with one of the calipers. The piston wouldnt go back to make room to fit the caliper with its new pads on. In trying to force it back we broke the loving thing off of the brake line(the line was old and it didnt actually take much). Seeing how this was sunday night finding a brake line for a '91 volvo 240 was pretty much impossible. We crimped it as best we could but it is still leaking fluid and while I'm trying to keep it topped off I think im gonna run out of fluid till I can pick some up from autozone when they open. If by chance it does run dry how hosed am I? He said if that happens they we have to bleed the master cylinder separately from the brakes and that's another whole lovely process. Is this true or will we be able to get the air out just by bleeding the brakes as normal? This is by far the most complicated thing I have ever done with my car and I have been just following his lead for the most part.
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Jan 5, 2009 11:27
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Ninja Dan posted:Alright so as I understand it, I take that momentary switch hook one terminal to the wire that is going to the relay and the other terminal to a ground. Sound about right? Any idea what I could use for a ground under the dash of a 93 jeep cherokee? I would think you'd want to use the new switch as an interrupter on the pos+ wire to the relay. What you just said sounds like a short. As long as the low-power side has a good ground already, you're ok. Many relays have a single ground for both sides, high and low, or ground through the body of the relay if mounted onto the body/frame of vehicle.
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Jan 5, 2009 14:27
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Gentle Marmot posted:This is probably gonna sound real loving stupid but here goes. Do not drive this car until the repair is completed. If I understand right, the brake hose between the caliper and hard line broke off, once this is replaced I think you'll just need to bleed each corner starting with the furthest away from the MC, but someone else should chime in for certainty. This is absolutely not safe to drive though, not even to the store to get the new brake hose. You might have trouble getting the part at Autozone, check NAPA or the dealer or rockauto.com for the part.
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Jan 5, 2009 15:12
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Last night I was having some fun wailing on my car. Long story short, I missed second gear. As best as I can tell the transmission was in neutral, and I didnt hit the rev limiter although the revs did rise past my shift point rpm, and then it just wound down and I slowed down and threw it back into second and off I went. Everything seemed fine and no clutch smell, but still, could I have damaged something? Car is an 04 WRX.
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Jan 5, 2009 15:36
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digger_smolkin posted:I would think you'd want to use the new switch as an interrupter on the pos+ wire to the relay. What you just said sounds like a short. As long as the low-power side has a good ground already, you're ok. Many relays have a single ground for both sides, high and low, or ground through the body of the relay if mounted onto the body/frame of vehicle. Alright I guess I am a little confused then... My plan was to cut the wire that is going to the horn switch in the steering column (that doesn't work) and hook it up to my switch. There is only one wire so I'm just not sure how I'm supposed to do that, maybe somebody could clear that up for me. I appreciate the patience and advice from everyone, I don't think there is a nicer forum on SA. edit: alright, so from doing a bit of googling, I've learned that apparently I need a power source on one end of the button? Gah I am at a loss... This is the site I'm looking at http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm Ninja Dan fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Jan 5, 2009 |
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Jan 5, 2009 16:15
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BannedForLulz posted:Last night I was having some fun wailing on my car. Long story short, I missed second gear. As best as I can tell the transmission was in neutral, and I didnt hit the rev limiter although the revs did rise past my shift point rpm, and then it just wound down and I slowed down and threw it back into second and off I went. Everything seemed fine and no clutch smell, but still, could I have damaged something? Car is an 04 WRX. Now, you can do damage downshifting if you're careless. For example, say you're downshifting into third and grab first by mistake. If you let the clutch out in a hurry and don't catch it in time, you can spin the engine up well past the rev limiter.
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Jan 5, 2009 16:22
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einTier posted:Upshifting, right? No, there shouldn't be any problem, even if you'd hit the rev limiter. Yes, while upshifting. I figured everything was fine but I needed to be certain. Whew.
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Jan 5, 2009 22:20
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revmoo posted:Do not drive this car until the repair is completed. If I understand right, the brake hose between the caliper and hard line broke off, once this is replaced I think you'll just need to bleed each corner starting with the furthest away from the MC, but someone else should chime in for certainty. Oh no way was I planning on driving the thing anywhere. The brake fluid ran dry over night so my question was really is there something special we have to do now to bleed the master cylinder, or will just bleeding the brakes be fine in getting all the air from the system?
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Jan 6, 2009 00:09
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You should definitely bleed the master but it's really not that hard. Go to Autozone and get a bench bleeding kit...usually you use it when you put a new MC in but honestly on at least the RWD Volvos there's enough room where you shouldn't have any problem doing it on the car. Undo all of the hydraulic lines going into the MC, put the bleeder kit on (should be a set of plastic nipples + clear hose - you put the nipples in the ports and run the hose from there back to the reservoir) and pump the pedal slowly until you get no more bubbles. Then carefully / quickly reconnect the brake lines and bleed the brakes normally. Depending on the brake calipers you have, though, there are about five million loving bleeders so that might take you a while 
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Jan 6, 2009 00:48
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This just occurred to me as I was posting about my dying clutch in the Miata thread. Can a bad or badly-installed short-shifter damage the transmission or clutch?
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Jan 6, 2009 06:25
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GoblinBomb posted:This just occurred to me as I was posting about my dying clutch in the Miata thread. Can a bad or badly-installed short-shifter damage the transmission or clutch?
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Jan 6, 2009 06:30
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Yeah, I guess it couldn't really damage the clutch. I'm pretty sure the previous owner abused it, and that's why the clutch is dying. Or I'm a terrible driver.
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Jan 6, 2009 06:32
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GoblinBomb posted:Yeah, I guess it couldn't really damage the clutch. I'm pretty sure the previous owner abused it, and that's why the clutch is dying. Or I'm a terrible driver.
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Jan 6, 2009 06:38
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i have been doing some tinkering with my FJ cruiser and am in need of a heavy duty potentiometer to dim a set of PIAA 004XT lights. they are currently mounted in my side mirrors replacing the stock clearance lights. while they provide much needed illumination on the trail i would love to be able to throw a switch and have them knocked back down to stock~ish illumination, because right now its on or off. experimentation with low power potentiometers have generally ended with fire as they can not handle the amperage from the battery; therefore i am looking for something that can. any ideas are welcome.
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Jan 6, 2009 06:55
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Ravens_Edge posted:i have been doing some tinkering with my FJ cruiser and am in need of a heavy duty potentiometer to dim a set of PIAA 004XT lights. they are currently mounted in my side mirrors replacing the stock clearance lights. while they provide much needed illumination on the trail i would love to be able to throw a switch and have them knocked back down to stock~ish illumination, because right now its on or off. experimentation with low power potentiometers have generally ended with fire as they can not handle the amperage from the battery; therefore i am looking for something that can. any ideas are welcome. You could get one from designed for inside lighting. It should hold up fine as long as it has a high enough amperage for your full draw. Your other source would be to find a local electronics dealer and see what they have. It may involve looking through several large boring books.
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Jan 6, 2009 17:10
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Ravens_Edge posted:i have been doing some tinkering with my FJ cruiser and am in need of a heavy duty potentiometer to dim a set of PIAA 004XT lights. they are currently mounted in my side mirrors replacing the stock clearance lights. while they provide much needed illumination on the trail i would love to be able to throw a switch and have them knocked back down to stock~ish illumination, because right now its on or off. experimentation with low power potentiometers have generally ended with fire as they can not handle the amperage from the battery; therefore i am looking for something that can. any ideas are welcome. What about wiring them in series, then having a switch that swaps them to parallel? The radiator fans on my car work that way - when they first come on they're connected in series and run at half speed, then if the temp gets too high a couple of relays switch and connect them in parallel and they run at full speed.
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Jan 6, 2009 17:45
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interesting... i hadn't even thought of that. now i am trying to figure out how that would work, i have been drawing schematics and just cant seem to get it to work without shorting, electronics have never been my strong suit. Ravens_Edge fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jan 6, 2009 |
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Jan 6, 2009 20:24
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I have an '05 Mazda3 hatchback and for some reason, anything I put in the cig lighter blows the fuse. It won't even pull power and it blows the fuse. I just got back from the dealer service center and the guy told me that "I can't fix that, you're going to have to go to a third party to get something that can handle the extra load." I suspect it's a hard short in the wiring but Bubba-Joe at the service center probably only knows to replace fuse blame everything else. Is there any way I can fix this or should I pursue this with Mazda corporate? I guess to fill in the required Mazda curse, so far I've had the brakes/ABS fail on me 3 separate times which required a week each time to get fixed, 3 accidents (2 being parked in the parking lot and 1 t-bone-esque), a turn signal that won't turn off unless manually done (part ordered), and other little things here and there.
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Jan 6, 2009 20:31
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93 2WD Cherokee Alright guys, I'm about at wits end here so maybe one of you guys can save my sanity. I bought this part ( http://www.quadratec.com/products/56113_04.htm ) to replace mine that had worn out. It is the shaft that connects the steering column to the power steering... kind of important. Problem is, it came about an inch too short to bolt up properly. Some of the people on other forums have pointed that it is telescopic and it certainly looks that way but no amount of pulling, compressing, hammering or 2 man yanking can get it to budge either way. Please please please tell me there is a secret to getting this thing to move. I'm trying to get my jeep back together tonight so I can go home to see my mom and this is the only thing preventing me from doing that. Any advice would be greatly greatly appreciated!
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Jan 7, 2009 05:40
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fossil005 posted:I have an '05 Mazda3 hatchback and for some reason, anything I put in the cig lighter blows the fuse. It won't even pull power and it blows the fuse. I just got back from the dealer service center and the guy told me that "I can't fix that, you're going to have to go to a third party to get something that can handle the extra load." I suspect it's a hard short in the wiring but Bubba-Joe at the service center probably only knows to replace fuse blame everything else. Is there any way I can fix this or should I pursue this with Mazda corporate? You can find the short, but it's a real pain in the rear end. This is why the service guy is trying to just make you go away. To find it, you basically have to trace the wire back through the car with a multi-meter and find out where it's shorting. Whatever you do, don't replace the fuse with something larger to keep it from blowing. It's blowing for a reason and you need to find it lest you create a short so hot it burns the car to the ground. When you're talking to Mazda corporate, make sure you mention this -- it's a huge liability issue for them if they don't find and fix it and the short eventually causes a fire.
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Jan 7, 2009 10:03
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Ravens_Edge posted:interesting... i hadn't even thought of that. This is the wiring digram for my fans. It's not the best picture, but it should be just clear enough.  The two fan motors are on the top left (replace these with your lights). The three relays are in the middle (top and bottom are 4-pin relays, the middle one is a 5-pin). At the bottom left is a 3-pin temp switch (wire your on/off and high/low switches here) Normally all 3 relays are off and the fans off. If you connect the top and bottom pins of the temp switch (your on/off switch) then the top relay turns on and the fans are connected in series. If you then also connect the middle and bottom pins (high/low switch) then the other two relays turn on as well.
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Jan 7, 2009 13:33
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fossil005 posted:I have an '05 Mazda3 hatchback Does the cigarette lighter itself blow the fuse?
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Jan 7, 2009 14:23
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ease posted:Does the cigarette lighter itself blow the fuse? I would try it if I could find it. In a unique series of events, the drat thing now works. I plugged in an iPod cradle that pulls the lowest amount of power of all the devices I have and when I pulled it out, the whole unit came with it. I put the unit back in and it now doesn't blow the fuse at all. I'm perplexed by the whole thing but if it starts to happen again, I'll probably replace the fuse and just go buy a new car.
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Jan 7, 2009 18:39
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fossil005 posted:I would try it if I could find it. In a unique series of events, the drat thing now works. I plugged in an iPod cradle that pulls the lowest amount of power of all the devices I have and when I pulled it out, the whole unit came with it. I put the unit back in and it now doesn't blow the fuse at all. I'm perplexed by the whole thing but if it starts to happen again, I'll probably replace the fuse and just go buy a new car. Something is shorting either between the power contacts inside the unit, or the wires behind it. You've somehow separated things enough to stop it happening for now. Go to the dealership, tell them it keeps coming out of place, and shorting. They should happily reinstall it properly, or replace it. That's what I'd do, no questions. edit: Unless you're out of your warranty period, by time or miles.
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Jan 7, 2009 20:15
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My 1990 Chevy corsica has an exterior window seal on the bottom of the window on the passenger door that has finally deteriorated into nothing. I have duct tape over the seal so water doesn't get into the door, but would like to be able to use the window again. What would that gasket be called? I tried window gasket, window seal, etc and I couldn't find anything. If they even still make it, any help would be great.
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Jan 7, 2009 21:06
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Ninja Dan posted:93 2WD Cherokee It definitely should telecope out unless it is at the end. In that case it should be long enough for both. It does require a good bit of pressure to get it to move out, but one person should be able to move it. It could be that the shaft is bent slightly. However, just in case, get some of your favorite rust buster (I like PB Blaster) and keep soaking that part of the shaft with it. If that doesn't work, you can always take a propane torch to it. Heat the outside shaft up a bit and then pull (wear gloves so you don't burn yourself).
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Jan 7, 2009 21:16
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I've got a 1990 Acura Integra, LS hatchback. This morning I started the car but then killed it trying to reverse out of the driveway. Normally it would start right up again, but right now it does not. The car cranks but does not start, I hear the fuel pump going when turning the key to on, and I am pretty sure I am getting spark (replaced cap, rotor, wires, and plugs a few months ago). What the hell? I've tried starting it several times today and it always does the same thing. This has happened once or twice before, usually it fixes itself at some point because I will go to start it and it runs fine. For example, last time it happened I gave up and tried to check for spark the next day, and it started up great with one of the plug wires pulled out. Any ideas?
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Jan 7, 2009 23:53
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