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Crustashio posted:On the subject of interiors, is there an e30 cupholder that won't break if I look at it wrong, but doesn't require modifying anything? I've got one of these that works fairly well. Kinda spendy though. Don't know if I'd drop $30 on it. I got mine when a club member threw it into a deal when I bought his snow tires. http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/ edit - The guy who runs the above site even throws in a bonus comparison of competing products. http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/competitors.html rhombus fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Dec 24, 2008 |
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Dec 24, 2008 01:26
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Anyone know a good site for turbochargers for an e92 328i?
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Dec 24, 2008 05:30
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So I put a deposit on an OBD1 S52 e30 on friday, and I may be picking it up today! Hooray christmas! Needs paint, interior carpet and door panels, exhaust work (it has sidepipes currently - way too loud!), and new h1/h4 housings for the headlights and it'll be well settled. Some minor maintenance items are needed as well (plugs, valve cover gasket, guibo) - they are already in shipping. By the time I head back to Knoxville, I should have the interior cleaned and in place, a 3.5" intake + hfm setup (chipped for the 3.5" hfm, but it's running a stock one), and an OBD2 center section -> UUC System U. Oh, and now that I am back in Nashville, I'm getting the rest of my e36 parts up for sale. I still have lots of interior trim left, an aFe CAI for a stock HFM, some 21.5 lb/hr injectors, an M3 rear bumper in Cosmosswartz, and lots of other little bits.
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Dec 24, 2008 14:04
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rhombus posted:http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/ Will those really handle a large bottle/cup when turning? The only cupholders I've seen worse than the E46's stock ones are the ones in the armrest on the MN12 Thunderbird, and I often have a 1 liter bottle of water or green tea with me, so not having to find it when it rolls off the passenger seat would be great.
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Dec 24, 2008 14:34
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Mr. Toast posted:Oh, and now that I am back in Nashville, I'm getting the rest of my e36 parts up for sale. I still have lots of interior trim left, an aFe CAI for a stock HFM, some 21.5 lb/hr injectors, an M3 rear bumper in Cosmosswartz, and lots of other little bits. What color interior?
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Dec 24, 2008 14:36
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rhombus posted:
E36 cupholder coming soon? YAY! I've been looking for something to put in the backseat since I have the fold-down rear seats which means I have no cupholders in the rear. I wonder if the universal cupholder will work back there.
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Dec 24, 2008 14:44
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Disregard, I'm an idiot.
two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Dec 24, 2008 |
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Dec 24, 2008 19:15
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:What color interior? Dove Grey
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Dec 25, 2008 00:53
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Is $5000 for a previously leased (leased twice, 3 year lease and then leased a second time and continiously owned by the lease company) 1995 bmw with 104K miles a decent deal? Interior/Exterior looks flawless and carfax shows it was rear ended within 6 months of bought new. 325i 5 spd, 4 door, black with grey interior. What should I look/listen for (watch out for) in particular? The clutch seems like the obvious wear part.
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Dec 26, 2008 05:38
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I just received a block heater for my car! It's a BMW part that was built in Canada, so it must work great in the cold right?  edit: goddamn freeze plugs are tough to get out! Any tips? two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Dec 27, 2008 |
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Dec 27, 2008 16:12
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Suddenly my E36 trunk lock won't lock or unlock my other doors. What could this be? Trunk wiring?
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Dec 29, 2008 00:41
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CornHolio posted:Suddenly my E36 trunk lock won't lock or unlock my other doors. What could this be? Trunk wiring? Can you lock and unlock the trunk at all?
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Dec 29, 2008 00:45
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CornHolio posted:Suddenly my E36 trunk lock won't lock or unlock my other doors. What could this be? Trunk wiring? Inside your driver's side door panel is a terminal that connects all of the central locking. In my car, all the plugs fell out  . Take out the panel and reconnect them.
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Dec 29, 2008 00:50
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How hard is it to replace the A/C compressor in an E46 sedan? I recently avoided a crash and swerved into the median, right into a huge chunk of concrete. I damage the radiator among other things, and it dented the A/C compressor. The total damage is $6,800 and includes replacing a dented A/C compressor on a preventative basis. If I opt not to replace it, I could cover my $1,000 deductible. So; how hard would it be to replace the A/C compressor on my own and how expensive is the part used? Additionally, could I take a bet on whether the dent in the compressor will lead to eventually failure or rupture?
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Dec 29, 2008 02:36
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two_beer_bishes posted:Can you lock and unlock the trunk at all? Yes I can. Weird thing is, if I unlock the door, the trunk unlocks. Same thing if I lock the door. If I try it from the trunk keyhole though, only the trunk locks and unlocks.
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Dec 29, 2008 03:25
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I am considering an 06-07 5 series wagon, since I want to get an all wheel drive wagon and it is both of those things. What do you guys think of those? The new xDrive system seems pretty badass as far as all wheel drive systems go. I wasn't sure if I cared that much about AWD until this last weekend we took my girlfriend's Accord up to the mountains and we got stuck in some snow / mud. Once we got unstuck from that, we had issues going up icy hills. The car would just lose traction and I had to go back to the bottom of the hill and then try again with more speed. This is even with chains on the front wheels. I'm guessing if we were in an AWD car that wouldn't be an issue since I saw a ton of AWD cars driving around without chains. Is I-drive a complete piece of poo poo or is it useable?
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Dec 29, 2008 09:50
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I hit a retarded pothole yesterday, and something strange happened. If I'm driving at high RPM, the dashboard seems to be making loud vibrating noise. It sounds like how it would if a windshield wiper was installed incorrectly and was flapping in the wind. Pushing in on the dash stops the vibration. What did I break? 
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Dec 31, 2008 00:56
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My clutch started slipping real bad last night. Turns out I stepped in some oil with my left foot and it got all over the pedal, and my foot was slipping all over the place. Made it really hard to drive.
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Dec 31, 2008 18:28
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I'm going to go ahead and add to the long list of questions already on this page. Two days ago I was rearranging cars in the driveway. I went to move my 2001 325i and noticed it idled a bit rough. I didn't think much of it. Yesterday, the car wouldn't turn over at all. I replaced the battery and it started up fine. Today, the car cranks but won't turn over. I don't have a code reader and Google won't tell me if there is a procedure I can use to make the car show me some codes. Any ideas as to what has gone wrong? Update: Just tried it again. This time I turned on the dome light. It faded as I cranked the engine. Date with Ikea fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Dec 31, 2008 |
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Dec 31, 2008 20:01
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I just picked this 99 M Roadster up that is loads of fun to drive. This is the first moderately high performance car I've ever owned, and I was interested in going to one of those non-competitive high-performance driving schools where instructors ride along with you. However it appears that the events put on by BMWCCA in my area would require a roll cage and a 6-point harness before I'd be able to go. I'm not interested in competitive racing, so while a simple roll bar might be feasible, a full roll cage and racing seat that supports a 6-point harness isn't. Are there any other options that don't have quite the absurd requirements for a one-day driving school?  
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Jan 1, 2009 21:20
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Dunno if you guys saw my thread, but add one to the fleet..
Lightbulb Out fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jan 2, 2009 |
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Jan 2, 2009 01:21
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Date with Ikea posted:I'm going to go ahead and add to the long list of questions already on this page. Sounds like a crank position sensor. They go bad on that engine. The dome light going dim is probably just because you've been cranking it a lot.
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Jan 2, 2009 02:46
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TractionControl posted:Dunno if you guys saw my thread, but add one to the fleet.. I didnt see it - can you link me?
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Jan 2, 2009 03:08
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Recently, my beloved '88 Toyota 4Runner got totaled by a 15 year old with a 3 week old learner's permit. I decided to replace it with a '98 BMW 740iL. It has a few problems that I'd like to learn to fix on my own, though I have no experience working with cars. Today I started with a problem raising/lowering the rear passenger window. I managed to get the door panel and moisture barrier off, and found pieces of a pink plastic pulley sitting at the bottom of the door. Mystery solved. One of the tutorials I followed to get the door taken apart linked to this site: http://www.regulatorusa.com/product_detail.php?group=instock&brand=66&product=148 $135 just for one little pulley? Is there no hope of simply replacing the pulley myself without replacing the entire regulator? Does anyone know if there are any better options for replacing it?
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Jan 4, 2009 08:48
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Zhentar posted:$135 just for one little pulley? Is there no hope of simply replacing the pulley myself without replacing the entire regulator? Does anyone know if there are any better options for replacing it? Welcome to the wonderful world of mysteriously expensive BMW parts. It still boggles my mind how you can pay $175 for a piece of plastic window regulator, but they only charge $218 (from the dealer!) for the entire gas tank for a E28 5-Series. I don't know of any place you can get just the parts of a window regulator. You probably wouldn't want to anyway. If those plastic parts broke, chances are the rest of the plastic in the assembly is weak too.
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Jan 5, 2009 02:12
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I considered asking in the craigslist thread, but this seems much more appropriate. I'm in the market for a car. Namely, one to replace my aging '94 Accord. My parents have decided to put forth $10k, and so I find myself being able to afford not just another accord, but some nicer cars. I've been looking a lot at BMWs as there seems to be a ton of them in the city and I've come across what I think is an awesome deal. Some of my more car-inclined friends think it's awesome but I want to know what you all think, being the BMW thread and all: http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/cto/975853143.html 2003 E39 530i 77,600km (~48,000 miles) $20500 The only thing I'm wondering about is that the add doesn't mention the choice of transmission (was there a choice?) and that the car has 18" runflats while tire rack seems to think it should have 17" runflats. Lastly, I'd be driving this in winter, with winter tires. So am I crazy or is this a drat good deal?
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Jan 5, 2009 02:31
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ReaperUnreal posted:
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Jan 5, 2009 03:05
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Xenoid posted:Horrible, horrible price. Most likely an auto but there was most likely a manual option (5spd, maybe the same GM 6spd in the 540?). Just stay away and find something a lot cheaper. 530s are nice cars but more like $10k for that one. might want to pay attention to the .ca there, you aren't getting an 03 5-series for 10k unless it's an utter shitheap. 20k isn't a phenomenal deal either, it's pretty bog standard. why a 5 over a 3 though? Crustashio fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jan 5, 2009 |
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Jan 5, 2009 03:32
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I posted this in the 'why we can't have nice things' thread but I figured I'd post it here too. My car got broken into about three hours ago.  fuckers stole my radar detector which I paid $50 for four years ago. They couldn't even be bothered to pull the plug out of my outlet, they actually cut the wire. I probably would have given it to them had they asked, but no, they had to break my loving window. I hope the glass cut the guy's abdomen when he reached in to take it.
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Jan 5, 2009 04:06
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Crustashio posted:might want to pay attention to the .ca there, you aren't getting an 03 5-series for 10k unless it's an utter shitheap. 20k isn't a phenomenal deal either, it's pretty bog standard. I'm Canadian and I bought my 540 in the USA and saved about $6k (plus there are and still hasn't been any manual 540s for sale anywhere near me). That said, most prices in Canada are a rip-off, but I know you can find appropriately priced BMWs (E39s too) in Canada. It might be standard for Canada but only an idiot would pay anywhere near that kind of money. That's E39 M5 territory if you buy one in the USA. If anybody paid that I would slap them and call them a retard.
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Jan 5, 2009 04:43
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I have a dilemma. I'm tired of my slow rear end M20 engine and I want to change that. I'm starting to look at dropping in a better engine or throwing a turbo on what I have now. I'm unsure of my budget right now, it depends on my tax refund but I'm only aiming for 200-250hp (as opposed to the E30 guys who shoot for 400+, but keeping it under $3k is important), this will be my daily driver so it needs to remain reliable. My plan is to buy another M20 (maybe a 325i) and build that up while I gather the turbo parts then once everything is good to go, then I pull out my stock stuff and the new stuff goes in. Should I just get an S5x instead? I haven't 100% devoted myself to this idea but I think it would be a blast to do. Is my plan retarded?
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Jan 5, 2009 05:07
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Xenoid posted:I'm Canadian and I bought my 540 in the USA and saved about $6k (plus there are and still hasn't been any manual 540s for sale anywhere near me). That said, most prices in Canada are a rip-off, but I know you can find appropriately priced BMWs (E39s too) in Canada. Don't you need to pay out the nose to the BMW dealers so they can give you a recall clearance letter? Could you let me know about what kind of things need to be done to import a BMW from the US? Since yeah, they're loving overpriced here.
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Jan 5, 2009 05:35
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David Corbett posted:Don't you need to pay out the nose to the BMW dealers so they can give you a recall clearance letter? Could you let me know about what kind of things need to be done to import a BMW from the US? Since yeah, they're loving overpriced here. I called every BMW dealer on the west coast for a piece of paper that stated that states all recalls have been taken care of. I eventually got it from a dealer in San Fran or therebouts. All they require are the last 8 digits of the VIN and then they faxed it to me. I called about 20 dealerships until I found one willing to do it. The Canadian dealers wanted $200 for a piece of paper stating this and they claimed I had to bring the car to them physically so they could "check it out" for a few hours. It's all bullshit scams designed to take money out of your pocket. Other than this you need to pay the RIV fee and purchase temporary insurance for the car before you leave. You also need to make sure it passes RIV inspection at Crappy Tire (which is free) but it might require minor work to be done (I had to replace a fog light and both belts). Budget for the car and the trip to cost more than it should and you'll be fine. It's also a good idea to purchase new tires (winters or otherwise) in the USA because they're about 1/4 of the cost of tires in Canada. You can also lowball customs when you get over here on what you paid for the car, but don't be ridiculous because they will ask you and then presumably they checked Ebay/Craigslist/Autotrader to see if the number is reasonable. A friend of my father gave customs a really low number and they basically hosed around with him for a few hours because of it. Xenoid fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Jan 5, 2009 |
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Jan 5, 2009 05:44
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Crustashio posted:might want to pay attention to the .ca there, you aren't getting an 03 5-series for 10k unless it's an utter shitheap. 20k isn't a phenomenal deal either, it's pretty bog standard. Thanks for the advice, I wasn't sure on the pricing for a 5 series. The reason I was looking at a 5 series is that I'm going to be stuck in traffic for 1-1.5 hours a day and want something comfortable and luxurious, seems like 5 series territory to me. Xenoid posted:That's E39 M5 territory if you buy one in the USA. If anybody paid that I would slap them and call them a retard. Guess I'll take a look in the states as well then, at least to avoid being slapped and called a retard. Just FYI, $20500 CDN is $16900 USD. loving exchange rate.
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Jan 5, 2009 05:53
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ReaperUnreal posted:Thanks for the advice, I wasn't sure on the pricing for a 5 series. The reason I was looking at a 5 series is that I'm going to be stuck in traffic for 1-1.5 hours a day and want something comfortable and luxurious, seems like 5 series territory to me. One thing I admit that I keep forgetting is how bad the dollar is these days. When I got my 540 our dollar was at 1.20 so I saved a few thousand by buying an American car just on the dollar alone. I got an E39 based on comfort (and having a V8 is awesome) but I think you can include the E46 3 series in there as they are quite comfortable and modern cars inside (and out). Read a lot about BMWs, make sure the car you are getting has maintenance papers to back it up, and test drive (locally) all the cars you are looking at on the internet to make sure you like them. If you are interested I may be selling my 97 540i 6spd with 94,000~ miles and I live in BC. My aim/msn is in my profile if you would like to talk about it but I've just had it in the back of my mind for a few months now and haven't put it on any sites or anything.
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Jan 5, 2009 06:15
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Xenoid posted:One thing I admit that I keep forgetting is how bad the dollar is these days. When I got my 540 our dollar was at 1.20 so I saved a few thousand by buying an American car just on the dollar alone.
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Jan 5, 2009 06:24
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I fixed all of the little niggling crap that was wrong with my E36 this weekend....I sold it and bought an '09 Accord.
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Jan 5, 2009 22:19
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frozenphil posted:I fixed all of the little niggling crap that was wrong with my E36 this weekend....I sold it and bought an '09 Accord. What? How much?
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Jan 5, 2009 22:54
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I've been getting an intermittent coolant light on my '01 330Ci. I kept forgetting to check the level when it was truly cold, but I finally did this morning, and it was right between the two dots on the stick. Do I just have a bad sensor, or is there something else that could be causing this? On a related note, I've never seen my temp sensor climb more than a tick above straight up, so I don't seem to be having any cooling issues. E: Forgot to mention, the car's got 115k on the clock, the PO replaced the cooling system around 90k or so they said.
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Jan 5, 2009 22:57
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Sterndotstern posted:What? How much? Sold it for $4k. I could have gotten a good deal more for it private party, but I got the Accord at $500 below invoice, so I made out alright.
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Jan 6, 2009 00:04
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