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Anyone know the name of those little plastic plugs/clips that are used to hold down parts of a cars interior? Basically, I want to plug this hole!  Edit: Funnily enough they're called Interior Trim Plugs. =) Duckandor fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 8, 2009 02:11
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Can anyone point me in the direction of a basic audio troubleshooting guide? I'm trying to diagnose a problem with my new '98 E38. Right now I know that the radio turns on and sound doesn't come out, and I'm not sure where to go with it next.
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Jan 8, 2009 03:10
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aksuur posted:I've got a 1990 Acura Integra, LS hatchback. The car cranks but does not start Low battery?
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Jan 8, 2009 05:23
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Uthor posted:Low battery? Well the negative terminal is somewhat loose, and I don't know the age of the battery. Seems to crank at a good speed though. Edit: Apparently I was not getting spark. Had a friend check it out, he tapped some wires near the distributor and now I have spark and a running car. aksuur fucked around with this message at 10:39 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 8, 2009 05:26
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My 2008 Fiat Panda Multijet (turbodiesel, mileage ~13500km) doesn't seem to like the current cold weather (avg. -5C) at all. On the cold start first thing in the morning, the temperature gauge shoots up to the maximum and lights up the warning light for a few seconds, then goes back to normal. It only does this when the engine is cold, never after a warm start or while driving. Is this something to be worried about? It has only started happening during these last few particularly cold weeks. Also, I've gotten into the habit of going to neutral whenever I'm at a stop. If the engine is not yet warmed up, if I go to neutral before stopping and let the car roll with my foot off the clutch while braking for the stop, the revs sometimes dip to 4-500rpm a few times causing noticable vibration. This has been happening for a little while longer than the temp. gauge weirdness, but I reckon it's cold-related as well. It has not yet happened when putting the car in neutral after stopping, only when stopping while idling in neutral. Again, is this something to be worried about? It's happened 4 times or so in the past 2 months. It's coming up for its 1-year service next month, should I do it earlier instead or wait? KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 8, 2009 15:37
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On every cold morning, my 91 Nissan 300ZX TT seems to shake a lot, especially at higher speeds, until it warms up (about 10-20 minutes of driving) then it feels as smooth as it ever was. A few months ago I was told I have a front strut leak (left side I believe). Could that be the cause of it? Or perhaps something else?
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Jan 8, 2009 20:14
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Ok here is a stupid question. I might be buying a 1998 Buick Century with 115,000 miles on it cheap from my uncle. Does anyone have experience with this car and would they suggest buying it?
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Jan 8, 2009 22:58
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have it your weigh posted:Ok here is a stupid question. Depends on what "cheap" is. If you don't mind driving a slightly used, but not terribly attractive "old guy" car, go for it. If I didn't have a long commute to work, I'd consider it for a daily driver/beater. They're fairly comfy, and actually aren't too bad on trips either. Then again, depends a lot on how your Uncle treated it too...
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Jan 8, 2009 23:07
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sim posted:On every cold morning, my 91 Nissan 300ZX TT seems to shake a lot, especially at higher speeds, until it warms up (about 10-20 minutes of driving) then it feels as smooth as it ever was. A few months ago I was told I have a front strut leak (left side I believe). Could that be the cause of it? Or perhaps something else? Misfire caused by condensation. Change your plug wires.
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Jan 8, 2009 23:08
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I'm having a hell of a time finding a Haynes or a Chilton's manual for my 2005 Toyota Matrix. Is it listed as a Corolla or something?
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Jan 8, 2009 23:32
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Polynomial posted:I'm having a hell of a time finding a Haynes or a Chilton's manual for my 2005 Toyota Matrix. Is it listed as a Corolla or something? The Corolla manual should be just fine, mechanically they are identical with the exception of the AWD matrix. However, as far as I know, chilton/haynes don't even make repair manuals for the corolla/ corolla matrix.
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Jan 9, 2009 00:34
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Dark Solux posted:The Corolla manual should be just fine, mechanically they are identical with the exception of the AWD matrix. However, as far as I know, chilton/haynes don't even make repair manuals for the corolla/ corolla matrix. Thanks for the info. I think I've seen Corolla ones from Haynes. Ahh, yes, here it is.. I've seen some good deals on ebay for the Toyota 3-volume set. I wonder if that'll be way too technical for a casual tinkerer such as myself?
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Jan 9, 2009 02:43
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Polynomial posted:Thanks for the info. I think I've seen Corolla ones from Haynes. Ahh, yes, here it is.. I've seen some good deals on ebay for the Toyota 3-volume set. I wonder if that'll be way too technical for a casual tinkerer such as myself? Another option is to get a 1 day subscription to techinfo.toyota.com, that is the same information dealers use. Just download the PDF files for your car. And print when you need them. But the 3 volume set is rather overkill for a casual tinkerer. But the Haynes one probably isn't as detailed as you might like.
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Jan 9, 2009 03:17
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Found this in the Youtube thread. Anyone know what kind of car this is?
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Jan 9, 2009 08:34
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HFX posted:Misfire caused by condensation. Change your plug wires.
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Jan 9, 2009 20:58
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sim posted:Thanks for the tip. I've asked the same question to about 5 different people and received a completely different response from each one. Either way I'll end up taking it to a mechanic, but its nice to have some ideas on hand to at least sound semi-knowledgeable. It could be a temperature coolant sensor also, but the more likely one is misfire from condensation on bad cap/rotor/plugwires.
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Jan 9, 2009 21:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does anyone make a (miata) clutch slave cylinder that isn't total trash, or did I just get a fluke? I had it replaced by the dealer once around 60-70k, and it went out again around October with just short of 95k on the car. Since the warranty is long gone, I replaced it with an Autozone slave for about $30 with a lifetime warranty.
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Jan 10, 2009 01:28
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1998 Dodge Avenger 5-speed 420A I4 So I'm taking my headlights out of my car to change the bulbs. The driver's side headlight is right next to the fuse box, so my hands can't fit back there well enough to be able to change the bulbs without taking the headlight out. To the furthest side of the headlight, near the fender, the bolt that screws into the headlight assembly is stripped. I can barely fit my hand back there as it is, but the bolt is rusty and just keeps spinning around in place. How should I go about getting this bolt out? Do I need a tap and die set? Should I take it to the shop and have them do it? Should I heat up the area where the bolt screws into (which is plastic) and pull the bolt out with pliers? Any ideas guys? Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jan 10, 2009 |
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Jan 10, 2009 20:01
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Make and model and year would help.
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Jan 10, 2009 20:03
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2004 Infiniti FX45 While backing out of the garage, the driver's side mirror got hit and cracked the glass. Nothing else is damaged as far as I can tell. I'd like to replace it myself since it's such a minor thing, but after a good hour of Googling, I'm finding hardly any sites that you can order replacement parts from (preferably OEM) and even fewer that have the mirror assembly / mirror glass for sale. The only one I've found thus far is this one but I can't really tell the difference between parts #1 and #2 in that diagram. So, 1 - Anyone know any websites that would have this mirror glass/assembly in stock? 2 - Anyone know any forums that might be able to help me on this? (https://www.infinitiscene.com and https://www.infinityfx.org were the best ones I could find)
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Jan 11, 2009 00:07
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Kloaked00 posted:2004 Infiniti FX45 You want part #2. Part #1 is the whole assembly minus the coloured cap. I'd call a dealer it shouldn't be more than 30 dollars or so. Hopefully.
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Jan 11, 2009 00:37
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Dark Solux posted:You want part #2. Part #1 is the whole assembly minus the coloured cap. I'd call a dealer it shouldn't be more than 30 dollars or so. Hopefully. They're also really easy to replace - they snap in and out.
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Jan 11, 2009 01:09
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Thanks for the tips. Hopefully the dealer can give me the part for a reasonable price
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Jan 11, 2009 03:56
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Tomorrow I'm buying a 1992 Volvo 240 wagon. A fun little car but it has no power in it at all. It has 114 hp and every review I've read said its kinda boring to drive. This might be ridiculous, but is there anything I can do to get more out of the engine or is it just not worth it? The car is in incredible condition and everything is working great so I'm not worried about it dieing anytime soon.
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Jan 11, 2009 04:57
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kimbo305 posted:What happens when it goes out, you suddenly go into gear (if you're not in neutral) and then can't get into other gears? Edit: NM, realized you copied/pasted my post from the MM. And yeah, that's it. The clutch pedal goes light and you can't get any gears with the engine running, because you can't actually disengage the clutch from the flywheel. This one I managed to notice the clutch feeling funny early as it started getting air in the line. Popped the reservoir, had barely any fluid in it. On the plus side, on the Miatas the leak is usually slow enough that you can limp along with a fluid fill for a while if absolutely needed. I hate Christians: There is power potential in the B230F, but not without major work. Typical first step is to bring it up to the stock spec of one of the hotter redblocks, either the turbo B23FT (basically, add a turbo and all of the required hardware) or the twin-cam NA B234F (head swap). Either one is good for about 160-170hp if I remember correctly. With a turbo, there is actually some serious power potential before anything starts breaking, but you won't easily get anywhere north of 200hp without it. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Jan 11, 2009 |
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Jan 11, 2009 05:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Edit: NM, realized you copied/pasted my post from the MM. Yeah, the first thing I thought of was adding a turbo. Those are around $500 right?
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Jan 11, 2009 06:18
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I hate Christians posted:Tomorrow I'm buying a 1992 Volvo 240 wagon. A fun little car but it has no power in it at all. It has 114 hp and every review I've read said its kinda boring to drive. On the stock motor there seem to be more aggressive cams availible. 240 turbo: http://turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0017 nm fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Jan 11, 2009 |
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Jan 11, 2009 08:41
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Er, I really don't know much about cars at the moment. My dad knows a lot and has worked on volvos for years, so I'll ask him about those things. So would adding a turbo be my best bet?
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Jan 11, 2009 09:14
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I hate Christians posted:Er, I really don't know much about cars at the moment. My dad knows a lot and has worked on volvos for years, so I'll ask him about those things. So would adding a turbo be my best bet? It is my impression that SBC swaps are actually less of a pain in the rear end if that gives you an idea. nm fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Jan 11, 2009 |
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Jan 11, 2009 11:01
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This is just a hypothetical which came up in my usual meandering lines of thought. In the world of model aeroplanes, there are so called diesel conversion kits for the glow plug motors. They seem to consist of a special head to raise the compression ratio which includes an adjust screw to up the ratio for starting. The fuel seems to consist of a mix of kerosene, ether and amyl nitrate. What interests me is whether this concept scales. Ie. can it be used on a larger two stroke like a mower motor? Not that I would do it, as kerosene is at least $10/L, nevermind obtaining the other ingredients. I'm guessing the mix is used for greater combustibility at a lower compression ratio and lower viscosity. Increased wear and conrod pummeling aside, would it run like its baby cousin? I should also note that the model engines are using carburettion and not injection like a true diesel. I do however plan on getting my hands on an expendable two stroke, lowering the compression ratio and trying to do a heat ignition type engine that'll run on whatever. No practical use, just interesting.
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Jan 11, 2009 14:05
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Can I get time added on to my extended warranty on account of being deployed?
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Jan 11, 2009 17:54
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Ford Focus!  Anyways, minor question. Say I'm at a light or whatever and start accelerating. Once the car hits 30mph, I'd usually feel the auto trans do it's job and shift into 2nd. Lately at this point I'll be expecting the same thing when suddenly I hear the engine RPM's get really high up there, so I'll take my foot off the gas and then I'll finally feel the stupid tranny shift. It's almost like my transmission is loving around with me. I swear I'm going to drive this car into a canal. Of course I'm going to bring this up at the next oil change, but could this be the early signs of a failing transmission? Car is a (lovely) 2001 Ford Focus SE.
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Jan 11, 2009 18:04
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i remember a chart showing how to shift an e36 m3 without "money" shifting. It was just different hand positions on the shifter, and they claimed its a better way to shift all cars but it is kind of awkward. I have only been driving stick a few weeks, would it be better to shift my 98 cobra with a t-45 5 speed like that? or does it only matter on some transmissions?
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Jan 11, 2009 18:08
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nm posted:It is probably not worth it. (Unless he's willing to help you a huge amount, including time. Even then turbo 240s aren't really daily drivers) What does SBC swap mean?
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Jan 11, 2009 19:20
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I hate Christians posted:What does SBC swap mean? sbc = small block chevy
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Jan 11, 2009 20:19
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Year: 1994 Make: Volvo Model: 940 Turbo Miles: 229,000 Date of last tuneup: Summer 2008 (about $400 of work) Last major issue: New fuel pump and fuel filters (Sept 2008) Lesser problem: Car doesn't start when temp is below 0F degrees. Likely a battery problem. Once it warms up to 20 (if it was below 0F at some point during the night), it'll start right up. I had the battery tested, but it's the factory battery, or an old Volvo one at least, so it likely needs replacing. I'd fork over the $90 to replace it if it weren't for the other problem (not sure whether to waste the money if my other problem is more major). More major problem: Check engine light comes on. It does that but has come on more frequently lately. Anyways, last weekend I was out running a number of errands. While idle, the car just kills. Had nearly a full tank of 92 octane unleaded. Not too cold out. I attempt to start it up but it fails. I try a few more times and eventually get it started. It sputters the whole way home at about 15MPH max and definitely wants to kill. I start it up a day later (after throwing some Heet in (perhaps there was condensation in the tank???) and it operates fine...for the remainder of the week. My commute to and from work is long (30+ mins). I get home Friday afternoon, park in front of my house and my car dies. Great time/place for it to kill, but obviously concerning. Was at about a quarter tank or a little less. Starts fine the next morning. It's a solid car, other than having a ton of miles and being real old. Don't have too much money to play with, so want your guys opinion first. Thanks in advance! Edit: Check Engine light has been coming on, on and off, since before my summer tune up. It's just more steady lately. I'm hoping someone may be able to deduce what it may sound like? A transmission problem. Cadalidic converter. Bad fuel pump (not likely). Car is old. Something like that. mister_gosh fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Jan 11, 2009 |
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Jan 11, 2009 21:30
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Anti-Square posted:i remember a chart showing how to shift an e36 m3 without "money" shifting. It was just different hand positions on the shifter, and they claimed its a better way to shift all cars but it is kind of awkward. I have only been driving stick a few weeks, would it be better to shift my 98 cobra with a t-45 5 speed like that? or does it only matter on some transmissions? The M3 has a design (if I recall correctly, a mount which wears abnormally) which allows the incorrect gear to be selected, resulting in "money shifts". Most cars (yours included) don't. Shift it normally. mister_gosh posted:Check engine light comes on. It does that but has come on more frequently lately. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Jan 11, 2009 |
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Jan 11, 2009 21:33
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dammit doublepost
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Jan 11, 2009 21:35
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Sometimes when it's really slick outside (we're talking ice on the road), when I brake in my 2005 Toyota Matrix, I hear a loud noise and my brake pedal starts to vibrate. I'm assuming that it's the ABS kicking in, right? It literally sounds like the car is being hosed by a robot.
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Jan 11, 2009 22:19
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Polynomial posted:Sometimes when it's really slick outside (we're talking ice on the road), when I brake in my 2005 Toyota Matrix, I hear a loud noise and my brake pedal starts to vibrate. I'm assuming that it's the ABS kicking in, right? It literally sounds like the car is being hosed by a robot.
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Jan 11, 2009 22:22
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