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Holy balls I think I found the answer to my problems. My girlfriend rides an 03 KDX200. Heavily modified, very quick. The thing has this annoying low end bog that we cannot diagnose. I've done so much jetting this last year, I've become frustrated. The guy we bought it from had just done a top end with a shop manual he gave me. A shop manual with this problem: http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/correction.html WHoops.
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Jan 9, 2009 00:03
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Somebody loan me $15k for this RG500 Gamma. Please. I've wanted one since I got Tourist Trophy a couple years ago.
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Jan 9, 2009 21:53
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He'll probably get it too. Gammas are such amazing bikes. I'd love to ride one just once.
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Jan 9, 2009 22:03
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$15k seems like a lot, but I've never ever seen one for sale, let alone in such great condition. I'm tempted to call the guy and just go sit on it and drool.
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Jan 9, 2009 22:16
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The was a Wolf edition one for sale at the last slimey crud run I went on. It wasn't perfect, but it's asking price of $12500 was almost enough for me to start calling banks. They're the harder edged of the big racerep 2 strokes that hit the street in the mid 80's. The RZ500 was a porker and really was just a big street oriented 2 stroke. The RG very nearly is the GP500 bike suzuki ran. The NSR400.. I can't speak much of other than it being a triple, and I haven't seen anyone going gaga over them.
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Jan 9, 2009 22:35
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Who's all riding newer liter bikes? A friend of mine is selling his 06 ZX-10, for something like $6,000 with a full system and PC. I also know of a guy selling a 05 R1 for a little bit less. I've never really liked my 636 that much, and I miss the 'pull your arms out of our sockets' feeling that my FZ1 and Hayabusa had.
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Jan 12, 2009 16:58
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Bob Morales posted:Who's all riding newer liter bikes? Mmmm, power. I love riding good bikes of all capacities (there's video of me somewhere doing a wheelie past a scooter shop, on a 50cc crapscooter) but I know what you mean about a daily rider. I get annoyed if what I'm riding doesn't have solid poop socking power delivery even if I don't use the full band of it on the road. Then again, quite a few of the litre bikes have crap engines. All high end power, nothing down low which is where the bulk of my riding is done, fast or not.
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Jan 13, 2009 06:34
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Does riding a Repsol LE CBR (The orange and flashy Repsol paint job) make me a poser? Because gently caress if that isn't a sweet looking bike. I'd like to get one when I upgrade from my 600. (Not anytime soon) The only thing special about it is the paint job, no?  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Besides, doesn't house totally ride one? I must have it in that case.  Click here for the full 608x336 image. Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Jan 13, 2009 |
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Jan 13, 2009 07:27
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I think the Repsol looks excellent. I wouldn't say poser to anyone riding one, I would just look in quiet envy.
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Jan 13, 2009 08:49
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Bugdrvr posted:I think the Repsol looks excellent. I wouldn't say poser to anyone riding one, I would just look in quiet envy. I figured with the greatly increased price tag it would have something other than a paint job. But It'd be buying it used, obviously. So that wouldn't matter. They also seem fairly affordable? I won't be buying one for at least 6 months though.
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Jan 13, 2009 08:56
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Don't worry, Honda's got something that's a better fit for your snack bracket.
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Jan 13, 2009 09:53
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Christoff posted:Does riding a Repsol LE CBR (The orange and flashy Repsol paint job) make me a poser? Course not: 
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Jan 13, 2009 12:18
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Something about race rep factory paintjobs is super awesome to me. The Repsol Honda, the Alstare and Telefonica GSXR's, the Smokin Joes CBR's, all of them are sweet looking, even if the latter three are getting older these days.
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Jan 13, 2009 16:02
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Phat_Albert posted:Something about race rep factory paintjobs is super awesome to me. The Repsol Honda, the Alstare and Telefonica GSXR's, the Smokin Joes CBR's, all of them are sweet looking, even if the latter three are getting older these days. Konica Minolta paintjob...  I love race reps. It's obvious that the people riding them aren't professional racers so...who cares? Also: Check ebay for fairing kits and convert your own bike! The quality of the kits graphics wise is pretty good but fit can be poor (as it always is with fairings).
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Jan 13, 2009 17:39
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Dammit, I laid my Nighthawk down today, and caused some minor damage I'm still sorting out. It was silly: I was parked in a steeply sloping parking lot (like ski-slope steep). I've gone in and out of there tons of times, but as I was shifting into 2d gear on a steep part to shoot up the hill, I somehow hit neutral. Neutral is a tiny notch that's really hard to hit on this bike even when I'm trying, but somehow I hit it accidentally. It was a real pain because, due to the hill, I was having a hell of a time lifting that bike back up, small though it is, and a passing driver gave me a hand. At first it wouldn't start at all, then after some coaxing in neutral I got it running fine, engine sounds normal, etc. I bent a mirror and scuffed a turn signal, bent the shift lever slightly, and snapped the clutch lever. I was still able to get it home by very carefully holding the clutch together when I pulled it. Most of it seems pretty straightforward: unbend a few things and get a new clutch lever. However, one point of concern: my bike always started just fine in any gear (with clutch held in) before, but now it won't turn over in the slightest unless it's in neutral. Any ideas? Everything seems just fine except that hitting the starter in 1st or whatever does absolutely nothing, and previously it started fine in 1st, and I bascially never used Neutral because it's hard to hit without deliberate effort.
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Jan 13, 2009 17:56
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Phat_Albert posted:Something about race rep factory paintjobs is super awesome to me. The Repsol Honda, the Alstare and Telefonica GSXR's, the Smokin Joes CBR's, all of them are sweet looking, even if the latter three are getting older these days. I was so excited for the new ZX-6R's Monster Energy paintjob...but the bike is black instead of green 
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Jan 13, 2009 18:53
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Any ideas? Everything seems just fine except that hitting the starter in 1st or whatever does absolutely nothing, and previously it started fine in 1st, and I bascially never used Neutral because it's hard to hit without deliberate effort. Check the wires to your clutch switch.
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Jan 13, 2009 18:58
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Any ideas? Everything seems just fine except that hitting the starter in 1st or whatever does absolutely nothing, and previously it started fine in 1st, and I bascially never used Neutral because it's hard to hit without deliberate effort. I'd guess the sidestand switch is stuck on, though clutch switch is just as likely. Depends on what your bike has.
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Jan 13, 2009 19:11
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:
your clutch switch may be damaged, the bent lever mightn't be actuating it or the wires have pulled out of it, should be a simple fix. Orange Someone posted:I'd guess the sidestand switch is stuck on, though clutch switch is just as likely. Depends on what your bike has. Sidestand switch would kill the engine as soon as he put it in gear
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Jan 13, 2009 20:15
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echomadman posted:your clutch switch may be damaged, the bent lever mightn't be actuating it or the wires have pulled out of it, should be a simple fix. I feel dumb that this didn't occur to me immediately, but a similar idea hit me while I was out driving (my car) around, and I checked on it when I got back to the house. Note again the the clutch lever was snapped, not just bent like the mirror and shifter. I looked closer, and though I can still engage the clutch if I "fulcrum" it against the broken area (where it secures to the bars), the actual attachment-point itself doesn't swivel. So it appears that the above are spot-on, and the bike "thinks" the clutch isn't engaged because it's not really measuring clutch per-se, it's measuring swivel at the attachment, which isn't occurring due to the break. Should be a really easy fix, just need to buy a new clutch lever and put it in, back in business. I needed to buy a new left peg and passenger peg anyway (both of which bent before I bought it), so just a minor annoyance. Yet another reason I'm glad I bought a used bike which has been dropped a few times before. One other slight mystery: Neutral is usually really hard to get to on this bike. I basically think of Neutral as "that little blip of green on my dial when I shift from 1st to 2d." The guy who did the vehicle inspection on my bike mentioned it as well, not as a huge problem but as a quirk, especially since I don't really use Neutral (just hold the clutch at lights, while coasting, while pushing, etc). However, it went solidly into Neutral when I had my spill, and it also goes solidly into Neutral now. Maybe there was some grit or gunk clogging the Neutral spot in the transmission, it worked itself out somehow, and I screwed myself up by under-tapping the transition to 2nd? I feel dumb since it's such a minor reason for a spill, but going into Neutral on a steep hill at low speed will apparently do that. TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jan 13, 2009 |
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Jan 13, 2009 21:56
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I feel dumb since it's such a minor reason for a spill, but going into Neutral on a steep hill at low speed will apparently do that. Clutch levers and whatever are replaceable, just be happy you werent hurt.
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Jan 13, 2009 23:37
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echomadman posted:Sidestand switch would kill the engine as soon as he put it in gear I know it wasn't the case here, but aren't there some bikes that won't start at all if the sidestand is down? I seem to remember a few of the ones at my MSF course that were like that.
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Jan 14, 2009 03:03
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Z3n posted:Konica Minolta paintjob... you mean this one?  Something about white hondas...
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Jan 14, 2009 14:20
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Linedance posted:you mean this one? Yup, just like that...and the trials bike in the backround is pretty badass too.
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Jan 14, 2009 18:02
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Charun posted:Course not: That one is a fake. The Ebay listing for it a year or so ago said so.
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Jan 14, 2009 19:38
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Linedance posted:you mean this one? The 600RR in general is just so drat sexy.
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Jan 14, 2009 19:55
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Dont know if anyone was reading it or not, but Motorcyclist Retro is coming back from the grave!! http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=1227 It revolves around 60's and 70's bikes mainly, of all makes. I only managed to snag one copy before they bit the dust, but it was a great mag.
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Jan 14, 2009 21:15
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Phat_Albert posted:Dont know if anyone was reading it or not, but Motorcyclist Retro is coming back from the grave!! Quick retarded 2-stroke question: I vaguely understand 2 vs. 4-stroke from the diagrams, but so far as advantages/disadvantages: 2-stroke *puts out a lot more power for the same cc's due to how it pumps *runs dirty as gently caress because the oil is mixed with the gas *clogs up and dies faster than 4 due to above, needs to be regularly diassembled and cleaned *very basic and crude *relatively shorter lifespan because the tiny little thing is beating itself apart as it works. Is that more or less an accurate summarization? EDIT: Oh, and what's CA's preferred site to purchase Honda parts? As mentioned, need to get new peg, passenger peg, and clutch for my Nighthawk.
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Jan 14, 2009 22:27
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:EDIT: Oh, and what's CA's preferred site to purchase Honda parts? As mentioned, need to get new peg, passenger peg, and clutch for my Nighthawk. My Goldwing-riding homies like https://www.servicehonda.com
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Jan 14, 2009 22:42
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Quick retarded 2-stroke question: I vaguely understand 2 vs. 4-stroke from the diagrams, but so far as advantages/disadvantages: More or less, yeah. They arent as simple, crude, or unreliable as you make them seem though. 2-strokes make more power because they are firing every time the piston hits TDC, rather than every other time, like a 4-stroker. It used to be that a 2-stroke motor made the same power as a 4-stroker twice its displacement, or twice as much power as a 4-stroker of the same displacement. This isnt entirely true anymore as research for the last 15 years or so has focused almost entirely on 4-stroke design, and 2-stroke design has fallen by the wayside and stagnated. They are mechanically simple, but there is lots going on in a 2-stroke motor, and lots of R&D that goes into making them run right. They can have short lifespans, depending on the design, or they can be extremely long-lived. 2-stroke motors with oil injected into the bottom end bearings are extremely durable and long-lived. Its not unheard of for Suzuki GT750's to go 70K or more before rebuild time. MX bikes have shorter rebuild spans due to the nature of their use.
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Jan 14, 2009 22:47
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:2-stroke stuff You're both right and wrong. Everything you said "could" be true. But isn't necessarily. I'll happily go into detail on all of that when I get home.
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Jan 14, 2009 22:50
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Nerobro posted:You're both right and wrong. Everything you said "could" be true. But isn't necessarily. I'll happily go into detail on all of that when I get home. That'll be great to read. You've done some great breakdowns of tech stuff before (though I'm still waiting with bated breath for your opinions of the Hobbit in the moped thread). I've heard of "oil injected" 2s before, and see how that would solve the "filthy" aspect pretty well, and presumably the clogging. I am still unclear as to how the engine isn't "overworking" itself by firing so fast. Especially on single-gear mopeds where it needs to hit presumably ridiculous rpms to hit top speed. All I really know is what I read from a few websites of noob-level 2-stroke info, and the Wikipedia article goes briefly into the prons and cons, with the main pro being "puts out a lot of energy in a small package". Looking forward to it. In the meantime, I suppose I should work on my Hobbit while I'm waiting for the parts to fix my Nighthawk. I have the gas tank cleaned, exhaust sort cleaned (tried the "bake on hot coals" technique, not sure how to tell if it worked), and now I just need to take out and clean the carb. Not sure if I have a compression issue as well, but will cross that when I come to it. The screw holding the throttle cable to the carb-lever is stripped too, so I might need to cut the throttle cable just to get it out so I can tap the screw and remove it and replace it with a hex-head for future ease of removal. The throttle cable housing is falling apart anyway, and I had major trouble with the throttle failing to close when released, so it probably needs to be replaced anyway, so might as well cut it to get it out of the way. Thanks much for all the advice, this forum has been a huge influence in my getting into bikes, and getting my gear running well (aside from that 5mph clutch-shattering spill).
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Jan 14, 2009 23:12
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:In the meantime, I suppose I should work on my Hobbit while I'm waiting for the parts to fix my Nighthawk. I have the gas tank cleaned, exhaust sort cleaned (tried the "bake on hot coals" technique, not sure how to tell if it worked), and now I just need to take out and clean the carb. I just banged the gently caress out of mine on a curb, making sure not to bend anything. I then took a wire coat hanger and poked it all around to get the baked on stuff. Then banged it again. A LOT of stuff came out. There is a screw on the right side (if it was mounted) of the exhaust that is there to help get carbon deposits out. It will help to take that off now, and run it for a little while without that screw to blow some more stuff out. quote:The screw holding the throttle cable to the carb-lever is stripped too, so I might need to cut the throttle cable just to get it out so I can tap the screw and remove it and replace it with a hex-head for future ease of removal. The throttle cable housing is falling apart anyway, and I had major trouble with the throttle failing to close when released, so it probably needs to be replaced anyway, so might as well cut it to get it out of the way. Ebay would be a good place for the throttle cable. I'd get in touch with Treats. If he doesn't have one listed, email 'em. Not all of his goods are listed at once. Bean_ fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 23:25
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I am still unclear as to how the engine isn't "overworking" itself by firing so fast. Especially on single-gear mopeds where it needs to hit presumably ridiculous rpms to hit top speed. Fairly tall gearing, to keep the RPM's within the engines limits when you're traveling at top speed. Its that same tall gearing that makes most mopeds so slow to take off. CVT's are a whole different matter, as they can change your final drive ratio on the fly.
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Jan 14, 2009 23:32
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The art of the 2 stroke... TapTheForwardAssist, you brought up some great points about 2 strokes. For any given motor, one or more of your points is likely true. The amount of power per cc on a 2 stroke is directly related to how highly tuned the motor is. This is in the range of "tuned for reliability or tuned for power" not the "so rich it's spitting raw fuel out the back or so lean it's eating holes in pistons" tuning. Without getting into to much detail, 2 strokes work best at certain rpms. Each component of the motor can be built to work best at a certain rpm range. If everything is designed for the same rpm, you get magical things like 50hp 125cc bikes. 2 strokes also live by the same rules that 4 strokes do, when it comes to ultimate power. 2 strokes are air pumps, the faster you can make the air pump move air, the more power it makes. Astronomically high rpm operation is one of the tricks that's used to make power from small motors. Even 4 strokes do it now, look at 600cc supersports and motogp. The life of a 2 stroke is not easy. The motor lives it's life trying to eek the most out of every drop of oil it gets. Over the years MFG's have figured out how to make the moving surfaces in a 2 stroke live a long time. They use bearings almost everywhere, bearings that live well with just a suggestion of oil. If well taken care of, the bottom end of a 2 stroke almost need never wear out. Suzuki, and yamaha both ended up running oiling systems on their street 2 strokes that aren't that far removed from what you find on a 4 stroke bike. Oil lines went directly to each of the main bearings ensuring that they got their trickle of oil. It takes remarkably little oil to keep these motors happy. Sadly, all the tricks in the book will never save the piston rings. Piston rings need oil to survive. oil is hard to come by on a 2 stroke. Do the math there ;-) The faster you spin a motor, the hotter those rings get, and the more stress they're under. On pokey, low rpm motors. Say, a lawnmower, or a GT750, rings can last a long long time. Say, the 70,000 miles that Phat Albert mentioned. As you make more power, and turn the motor faster, and run components tuned to narrower rpm ranges, you start to eat into ring life. And eventually rod bearing life. This is really the downfall of 2 strokes. Because there's a lack of oil, metal on metal contact happens. And they do wear out. 4 strokes, really need never really wear out. (for all intents and purposes at least) 125MX racers will often change rings every race. While 250 riders can wait a few races. 125's and 250MX bikes make nearly the same power. Just imagine how much more stressed the 125 is versus the 250! KTM is actually selling a Euro 3 compliant 125cc 2 stroke motard. The carb is pretty tricky to make sure the fuel mixture stays within the euro 3 standards, but really the bike is just a run of the mill 2 stroke. Yet it's cleaner than anything sold in the US. Aprilia also had some direct injected 2 strokes that were frighteningly clean. 2 strokes don't need to be dirty. A properly tuned, and setup 2 stroke will virtually never foul a plug. Depending on how hard you run the bike, you may never need to clean the exhaust. The less stress you put on the bike, the higher the chances of building up carbon in the exhaust, and getting the plug fouled. Heat is what cleans those parts, running the bike lightly, keeps those parts cool. The motors are not universally basic or crude. They can be anything from lawnmower simple to "this is technology honda wishes they had" complex. Two strokes got advanced ignition systems long before four strokes, because two strokes respond very much to ignition timing. The motors can have variable intakes, variable exhausts, they often have crazy carbs. If I were to characterize a 2 stroke, I'd have to say a this: * Narrow Powerband * Finite Lifespan * Simple to work on * Cheaper to tune Two strokes have that thing where they work really well in a narrow range of rpm. The more power you make, the narrower that band. My Peugeot has a maximum power rated of 2hp, at 6000rpm. And it's maximum torque is at 3200 or something like that. Because the motor isn't "tuned" for any specific rpm it has a wide operating range. I can expect it to run ok from 2800rpm to almost 7000rpm. To bring up the counter example, a suzuki RK166, made 20hp, from the same 50cc. But it's powerband was from 16,500rpm to 17,000rpm. Yes, that's 500rpm wide... I don't know a lot about the honda hobbit. The faster you turn the motor, the sooner it wears out. That's reality with 2 strokes. You can find some more power by removing any restrictions on the motor. There are several restriction points, one can be the air filter, the carb, and some exhausts have nasty little restrictors in them. As long as the bike is still a single speed machine, incresing the top speed will hurt the motors longevity. Now here's the next problem. As you start to use "tuned" parts. Like ported cylinders and tuned pipes, you're narrowing the powerband. Making the bike slower off the line. And necessitating tuning the clutch to keep the motor spinning somewhere sane in the powerband. If you watch videos of racing puches, that's why the motors are always revving to high heaven. With highly tuned motors, you will have no torque at all at low rpm. Okey, enough text. :-) Ask away. Or tell me I'm wrong.
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Jan 15, 2009 02:58
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Why have we not seen this technology make it to the street in the form of a motorcycle engine? http://www.marineenginedigest.com/profiles/evinrude/etec.htm
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Jan 15, 2009 03:31
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Bimota bankrupted themselves on that project. Aprilia's scooter did make it to market. Those outboards work well, at full throttle. At near idle, they had a tendency to hole pistons and destroy their injector needles. They did fix that in the end. :-) Boat motors are also fairly low rpm. I wonder if that system is workable at 12-14krpm. And if so, when do we find some venture capital and make the US a sportbike superpower?
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Jan 15, 2009 03:38
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Whelp, I'm tossing in my long post hat. All hail nero, the new king.  Anyways, that Evinrude engine is loving amazing. I'd love to see something like that on a bike...but I'd imagine it'll never happen I wonder how complex and heavy the engine is as a result of all of those modifications...plus 5 hours on no oil is pretty  as well.
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Jan 15, 2009 04:28
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Well, Bombardier owns Rotax, and Rotax has always done amazing things to 2 cycle engines. I owned a Can Am 250cc MX bike, loud as the thundering fury of 10,000 caged bumblebees and able to jump tall buildings in a single bound. BTW, if you guys ever find yourselves with the opportunity to buy a decent CanAM dooooooo eeeeett! Also had a SkiDoo Citation sled with a 260cc single that would get up to around 60mph-doesn't sound like much for a 260cc but remember that a snowmobile track is a large horsepower robbing rubber flap. Most sled makers are going with diesel (4 stroke) to beat emissions and noise regulations but BRP is using a fair amount of e-tech. Snowmobil;es with 4 strokes make me sad.
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Jan 15, 2009 06:14
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Nerobo, would the addition of a turbo to a 2T engine really gently caress with things, or is it a pretty similar situation to what you get when you turbo a 4T?
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Jan 15, 2009 21:34
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