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case posted:Need some advice to fix a really irratating issue. The jets for the headlamp wash are knackered and I need to get to the back of the lights. I don't know if there is anything special about the tech2 kit, but my E30 has like 5 screws and 2 clips per side to take the grills and lights out. Literally 5 minutes tops.
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Jan 10, 2009 22:56
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It's probably a stupid question, but-- '95 318ti My clutch has started to develop a notched feel when I kick it in. The hydraulic pressure seems fine, as I'm not having any issues with the brakes. It doesn't vibrate if I keep it in one place, but moving it in or out, I get variable resistance. This has developed rapidly. Throw-out bearing? Thanks for any advice you can offer.
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Jan 11, 2009 04:07
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OxMan posted:VANOS vs. Non-VANOS As much as I love my '92, if I had to do it over again, I would get a car with VANOS. Sometimes the lack of torque under 3500rpms is annoying in a daily driver, and while the NV anecdotally has more pull up top you'll never really notice on a day to day basis. Top end becomes a moot point when you swap in S50 cams (available for around $300 used), then you can poo poo all over the NV (which costs about double to get to the same amount of peak HP via cams). I had to help replace VANOS seals and the high pressure oil line in my dads M52B28TU (so dual VANOS) and it was a relatively easy job. Definitely worth the hassle for the additional torque.
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Jan 11, 2009 04:31
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Ok, I've been searching up and down for this but no finds. I've got a 97 M3 coupe. I had a Euro specialist repair shop check some suspension stuff (tie rid ends, control arms, RTABs, etc.). They replaced tires and driver's side tie rod end. I'm now told that my tires sit really badly, having huge amounts of negative camber (which I havem't been told how many degrees it is yet). So, they say I've got weird struts on (somehow my current struts are the correct BMW part #, but not the correct Sachs # according to their distributor). They want to order new struts and try them. If that doesn't fix my camber issue, then they want to notch the strut towers to make my old struts fit. Yep, cutting the metal in the strut tower and redrilling mounting holes. Does this reek of overkill for a small problem?
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Jan 11, 2009 05:57
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balakadaka posted:Ok, I've been searching up and down for this but no finds. I've got a 97 M3 coupe. I had a Euro specialist repair shop check some suspension stuff (tie rid ends, control arms, RTABs, etc.). They replaced tires and driver's side tie rod end. I'd look at camber plates. They're designed for autocross/racing to give additional negative camber, but can be pushed out for more positive too. Looking around, I see $350 from both Turner Motorsports and UUC. I'd trust that a lot more than some guy sawzalling/drilling into my stock bodywork. http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/products.asp?CS=uuc&RowID=429&Refresh=True&CategoryID=6&OverrideJava=True&FromDefault=True
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Jan 11, 2009 08:32
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balakadaka posted:Does this reek of overkill for a small problem? Yes, that should be a last resort. Hell, a pair of camber/caster plates is less than $400 and that would take care of the problem. A much better solution than permanently altering the structural integrity of your car. Have they looked at the part number on the front strut mounts? Those will alter the geometry more than anything. Some people switch to the '95 mounts which will add some camber, and some swap the mounts from left to right which will also add camber. I would check those before doing anything else.
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Jan 11, 2009 08:33
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I'm checking now to make sure. Dumb question, which way to the arrows need to point on the strut mount? I've had them going to the innermost hold (most towards engine)
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Jan 11, 2009 17:33
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balakadaka posted:I'm checking now to make sure. Dumb question, which way to the arrows need to point on the strut mount? I've had them going to the innermost hold (most towards engine) That would be your problem, they should point forward towards the headlights.
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Jan 11, 2009 17:47
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:That would be your problem, they should point forward towards the headlights. Not only am I retarded, but so is the shop. "Yeah, they look like they're installed correctly."
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Jan 11, 2009 17:49
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Apologies if this has been covered in the megathread already. I didn't see it, but ya never know. I'm thinking about picking up an '02 745i. I realize there are mixed thoughts on the new 7s, but what I'm reading on it is all over the place - it's either the most intuitive and reliable car in the world, or it's broken from the factory and iDrive rapes children. As a rule of thumb I tend to trust BMWs, but with the '02 745i averaging $17k in my area something had to drive the price down like that. Thoughts?
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Jan 12, 2009 08:14
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OrangeFurious posted:Thoughts? I can't comment on reliability etc as I've only had mine a short time, but I will say that the iDrive took about 30 mins to get familiar with and now I don't even think about it. It should be easier still on a left-hand drive car because you'll be using your right hand where I have to use my left. I'm guessing that because you're here you're reasonably computer literate, it won't be an issue. Regarding the depreciation, these cars are marketed at new to the seriously wealthy as status symbols, complete with the artificially high price. The older the car, the lesser the pose factor and the smaller the market. Most ordinary drivers just assume that they're out of their price range or are scared off by higher maintenance and running costs. If you're getting a car that's around '02 then it's previous owners have had to take the worst depreciation hits ($80,000+ new, ouch). There are certainly bargains to be had, just steer clear of fixer-uppers and stick to clean examples with full service history.
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Jan 12, 2009 11:04
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2002-2003 E65/66s are shitheaps. Avoid them like the plague.
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Jan 12, 2009 12:33
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Dogtanian posted:Regarding the depreciation, these cars are marketed at new to the seriously wealthy as status symbols, complete with the artificially high price I'm hopeful this is the full, or near full, explanation. I realize luxury car resale value drops like a bomb - especially in Southern California - but I'm used to a $40k Volvo or Audi dropping to $17k, not a $70-90k BMW dropping to - in some cases - under $15k. Mad Dragon posted:2002-2003 E65/66s are shitheaps. Avoid them like the plague. What's wrong with them? I've heard the shitheap argument, but it's usually light on details.
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Jan 12, 2009 18:45
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OrangeFurious posted:What's wrong with them? I've heard the shitheap argument, but it's usually light on details. Traditional BMW failure points, window regulators, etc, plus (from what I hear) extremely expensive parts, and lots of points of failure. 7-series cars have the most electronic gizmos of any car they make, and their electronics are BMW's weakest point.
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Jan 12, 2009 19:10
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Has anybody replaced their RTABs using this method? http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36rtab/ Is there an easier way? I'm thinking I'll need to tackle this in the spring or summer. Also, why would I need shims?
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Jan 12, 2009 19:24
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What mods would give me the most bang for my buck on an automatic 2000 528I? I was leaning towards full exhaust and a cold air intake first, but my friend said something about a mod for automatic cars that fixed shifting that would probably be the best thing to start with.
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Jan 12, 2009 21:41
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^^^ Honestly, nothing really. Get some good suspension bits, better rubber and the Jim C. Shark injector. Dinan has (at $300) transmission software that raises the shift points, but I'd be drat sure you take good care of that transmission if you take that route (ie. replace the tranny filter, flush the fluid, wait a month, flush the fluid again, wait one more month, flush the fluid again, and then do that routine every 30k miles or so). A CAI and exhaust really won't do anything noticeable.CornHolio posted:Has anybody replaced their RTABs using this method? I used this method as a base for how I do them now: I use my super awesome powerful plug into the wall drill with a large bit and just go to town until i have removed enough material to get a sawsall blade in there. Then just cut the metal shell into quarters and they should just fall out with a little persuasion with a screw driver. Be careful and don't cut into the rear trailing arm itself. For installation I used their DIY tool, it works great. Get the M3 RTABs, I noticed a real difference with them. And it could all be placebo but I feel that under hard corning the rear end is more planted with the shims. At $40 I figured why not.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:48
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We currently have a 2003 E46 330i sedan, 5-speed, with 129k miles on it. It's still running strong. I previously had a 1988 E30 325iX but some guy decided to pull a U-turn in rush hour traffic and totaled it for me. Anyone have an E39 M5? Sometime next year I plan on getting one, a 2002 or 2003 model year, preferably with the two-tone leather.
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Jan 13, 2009 07:21
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OrangeFurious posted:What's wrong with them? I've heard the shitheap argument, but it's usually light on details. The problem with researching this kind of thing online is it's almost impossible to cut through anecdotal bullshit and find the actual numbers. Most people that post on car messageboards are there because they're having some kind of problem etc etc etc. Add to this the fact that people paid a hell of a lot for them at new, so they're understandably angry that something has gone wrong. There's a UK site called Reliability Index that gathers data with regard to aftermarket warranty claims - it assigns a car a score depending on how many claims, average cost of each claim, time spent in garage and so on. The lower the number the better. The average score is 112, the BMW 7 series gets a score of 99 - so better than average (although the 94-02 model doesn't do as well). The Audi A8 gets a score of 201 and the Mercedes S-Class gets a score of 245, which is just loving scary. We get a different set of engines to you guys in the US, so results may vary. Read up on some buyers guides and as others have said, they're heavy on gadgets and gizmos, so check everything over carefully before parting with cash. Dogtanian fucked around with this message at 10:49 on Jan 13, 2009 |
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Jan 13, 2009 10:45
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Dogtanian posted:The problem with researching this kind of thing online is it's almost impossible to cut through anecdotal bullshit and find the actual numbers. Most people that post on car messageboards are there because they're having some kind of problem etc etc etc. Add to this the fact that people paid a hell of a lot for them at new, so they're understandably angry that something has gone wrong. Speaking of warranty: that 6 years is up for the 2002s, and the 2003s aren't far behind (thank GOD). Those that haven't already passed 100k miles, that is. Free maintenance expired a long time ago, so very few have had proper fluid changes. I've seen cars with every single maintenance item overdue by thousands of miles, and the owners had no intention of getting them done. You do not want one of these cars.
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Jan 13, 2009 13:09
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Mad Dragon posted:You do not want one of these cars. We only got the usual 3 years warranty, but it did come with 5 years maintenance and servicing included, so you can be reasonably sure its been looked after for the first 5 years of its life. I would usually expect us to have worse reliability than the US though, because we tend to salt & grit our roads 5 months of the year - doesn't help with corrosion. Although we missed out most of the really big engines, maybe that's it. Are there any websites that could show real numbers out there? You guys have reliability surveys or anything?
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Jan 13, 2009 14:35
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Dogtanian posted:We only got the usual 3 years warranty, but it did come with 5 years maintenance and servicing included, so you can be reasonably sure its been looked after for the first 5 years of its life. One would hope. OTOH, getting people who can afford to buy $100k cars to stop what they are doing and take it to the shop is tricky, even if the work is free. @Cuatal: not quite Dinan, but I did have them re-flash my 2002 530ia with a new tranny program; it felt alot spunkier. That said, good rubber and light wheels can do wonder if you don't already have them.
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Jan 13, 2009 15:16
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I'm not sure if this has been covered already, but with search apparently permanently down it's hard to keep up with these long threads. I've seen a 1995 (E34) 525i for sale on Craigslist and Kijiji locally. It's not quite what I was looking for (I'd rather go for a late E39) but it's only $2000 or so. There's not that much more info about it, except that it has 250,000km on the odometer. It has leather (which I imagine is standard for any 5-series) and a sunroof. Am I certifiable for even thinking about buying this car, and if not what sort of issues should I look out for WRT to this particular model/series (as opposed to ordinary wear/tear)? Link to the ad (it's in French).
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Jan 14, 2009 19:33
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I decided that it's time for an LSD for my E30. I'd like to keep the gearing around 2.93 since that's what I have now. I don't want to go any lower, but I don't want to go much higher (my highway mileage already isn't so great). How can I figure out if I want a 3.46, 3.64, 3.73, or 2.79? I understand that the higher I go, the worse my highway fuel economy will be but I'll also accelerate quicker (my 2.93 is fine, I guess), but how do I figure out what I want?
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Jan 15, 2009 06:28
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two_beer_bishes posted:I decided that it's time for an LSD for my E30. I'd like to keep the gearing around 2.93 since that's what I have now. I don't want to go any lower, but I don't want to go much higher (my highway mileage already isn't so great). Find the gear ratios for your transmission, and then find one of the many gearing calculators online and plug the numbers in. 3.46 will probably be the best option since you have an eta.
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Jan 15, 2009 07:24
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Mad Dragon posted:BMW adding a 6yr/100k warranty to 2002-2003 7-series isn't anecdotal bullshit; it's damage control. Even the ones in "good" shape aren't in very good shape. Almost every one I work on has several pages of warranty repair history, not including regular maintenance. Listen to this man. I've been a BMW tech since these cars came out and I wouldn't wish one on my worst enemy. There's no such thing as a good deal on an E65. As far as specifics: The transmissions have numerous problems from bad torque converters to losing gears to seal leaks. The ARS rollbars blow out (the rollbar costs about $1200). The painted interior panels don't hold up very well. The early valvetronic motors have a fairly common issue with intermediate lever wear, an issue that we'll probably see more of as the cars get older. The butt massagers leak, occasionally shorting out the seat electronics or subwoofer under the seat. There are literally hundreds of possible common electrical malfunctions, some which will render the car undrivable (CAS, EMF, etc), and the electrical systems on these cars are a nightmare to say the least. I could go on. These cars are money sinks. Don't buy one unless you love the car so much that the idea of spending $1-3k a year on maintenance and repairs doesn't faze you. And if you think you'll be doing work on these cars yourself, think again. Better hope you have a very good independent, otherwise you may as well go ahead and put your dealer on speed dial. That all said, it's probably the nicest driving big car I've ever hustled around a track and the seats (when working) are some of the most comfortable I've ever sat in. So it may be worth it to you.
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Jan 15, 2009 07:42
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peterjmatt posted:Listen to this man. I've been a BMW tech since these cars came out and I wouldn't wish one on my worst enemy. There's no such thing as a good deal on an E65. Yeah, the VP at the company I'm at drives a 7 series and it's in the shop quite a bit. I will however say that it is one of the nicest cars I've ever riden in. Extremely comfortable like peterjmatt mentioned and it's incredibly smooth. Just not for the amount of problems they encounter.
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Jan 15, 2009 15:36
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el topo posted:I've seen a 1995 (E34) 525i for sale on Craigslist and Kijiji locally. It's not quite what I was looking for (I'd rather go for a late E39) but it's only $2000 or so. There's not that much more info about it, except that it has 250,000km on the odometer. It has leather (which I imagine is standard for any 5-series) and a sunroof.
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Jan 15, 2009 17:52
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two_beer_bishes posted:I decided that it's time for an LSD for my E30.... but how do I figure out what I want? Here is a very nice calculator: http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/gears/ Using it you can figure out what speed you will cruise at on the highway, and at what speeds you will be shifting at while accelerating. Check out your local junkyards and see what you can find. Availability might dictate your options, unless you are willing to pay top dollar to have one shipped to you. So far I have grabbed two 3.73 LSDs, and a 2.93 open for for a little under $50 each. If you really want to, you can take out the LSD from one differential, and use the gear ratio from another, but it is quite a bit of work, and you need to know how to shim it right. For my 318ti (with M50 engine) I will just be using a 3.73 LSD (MPG be damned). I figure one of the two that I found should work. If you put in a junkyard differential, you might want to pick up a seal kit ($50 or so), and maybe rebuilt axles ($60 each) while you are in there. Check your differential mount while you are under there too. You can also go all out and get the special finned differential cover, but that costs $200 and is probably not that useful unless you will be really beating on the car. Swap_File fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jan 16, 2009 |
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Jan 16, 2009 03:59
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Swap_File posted:Check out your local junkyards and see what you can find. Availability might dictate your options, unless you are willing to pay top dollar to have one shipped to you. So far I have grabbed two 3.73 LSDs, and a 2.93 open for for a little under $50 each. I've still got to go grab the 3.46 rear end from the local JY to roll my own 3.46LSD, I've just been too drat busy. It's been about two months since I've seen it there so I'm hoping nobody else has snagged it.
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Jan 16, 2009 04:15
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E30 diffs have weak input bearings. The one that came with my car was noisy. I bought a used one, which also ended up being noisy, but the seller did not honor his warranty (diffsonline.com). Then, I bought another one from bavarian auto recycling. This one made noise too!!!! But they honored their warranty, I sent my diff back to them and they rebuilt the bearings and I finally have a good one. I guess what I am saying is be careful where you get your diff from, visual inspections will not reveal any problem, you need the diff installed and get going at least 40 mph before you can tell that there is a problem. Ive got a 4.10 LSD, it really makes that little 4 cylinder move. I get mid 20s for gas mileage, its low 20s now though because of the cold. Dyscrasia fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jan 16, 2009 |
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Jan 16, 2009 17:26
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Dyscrasia posted:E30 diffs have weak input bearings. The one that came with my car was noisy. I bought a used one, which also ended up being noisy, but the seller did not honor his warranty (diffsonline.com). Then, I bought another one from bavarian auto recycling. This one made noise too!!!! But they honored their warranty, I sent my diff back to them and they rebuilt the bearings and I finally have a good one. Question about this: My 318iS has the 4.10 LSD installed with 190,000 miles on it. When I get to about 40mph, I start to hear a whine from behind me that changes slightly when I left off the gas and continues all the way until I stop. It changes in pitch with speed. Could this be the diff input bearing? If so, how long can this go until it fails and what happens when it gives out? Finally, how much did you pay for your rebuilt diff? EDIT: It also clunks slightly when I get on and off the gas too. The bushings and other rubber support parts look good, so I don't think that's the problem.
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Jan 16, 2009 19:22
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peterjmatt posted:And if you think you'll be doing work on these cars yourself, think again. Better hope you have a very good independent, otherwise you may as well go ahead and put your dealer on speed dial.
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Jan 16, 2009 20:25
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Brock Landers posted:Question about this: My 318iS has the 4.10 LSD installed with 190,000 miles on it. When I get to about 40mph, I start to hear a whine from behind me that changes slightly when I left off the gas and continues all the way until I stop. It changes in pitch with speed. Could this be the diff input bearing? If so, how long can this go until it fails and what happens when it gives out? Finally, how much did you pay for your rebuilt diff? Thats the same car as me, same diff, and about the same mileage. It also is the same noise I was talking about. The bearing is probably fine for quite a bit longer, its just noisy and annoying. Im not sure what happens when it finally breaks, the noise is just from fine groves being worn into the bearing, from what I have heard, a visual inspection will not reveal a problem even if its noisy. I payed $500+shipping from Barvarian Auto Recycling. Not sure about clunking though. NOTE: I am not a differential expert by any means, I am just passing along info that I learned when dealing with the problem myself.
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Jan 16, 2009 20:33
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M52 vs. M54 anyone? Is the M54 worth it? Buying an E39 525 with an M54 will cost me a lot more since it has to be newer (>2000), whereas I can get an M52 528 quite a bit cheaper. Pretty much the same power, but I'd love a more modern engine technology.
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Jan 17, 2009 00:48
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Pilsner posted:M52 vs. M54 anyone? Is the M54 worth it? Buying an E39 525 with an M54 will cost me a lot more since it has to be newer (>2000), whereas I can get an M52 528 quite a bit cheaper. Pretty much the same power, but I'd love a more modern engine technology. If it is a M52TU I would get that, since it comes with Dual Vanos anyway, plus it has more power. My dad's 528iT with the M52B28TU makes the car scoot pretty good. I have driven a 3 series and a Z3 with the M54B25, both with autoboxes, and I would still go for the M52.
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Jan 17, 2009 01:36
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M54 is going to be a slightly lighter engine, since it's an al/sil block, unlike the M52B28TU, which was an iron block (except for the Z3 2.8L, which also used the al/sil block). Engine technology didn't change enough to make a difference. The biggest possible change is the use of the newer MS43 DME. Not sure if the M52B28TU (dual-VANOS) used the MS43 - I know for a fact that the single-VANOS M52B28 used the MS41.1.
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Jan 17, 2009 01:51
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:If it is a M52TU I would get that, since it comes with Dual Vanos anyway, plus it has more power. My dad's 528iT with the M52B28TU makes the car scoot pretty good. I have driven a 3 series and a Z3 with the M54B25, both with autoboxes, and I would still go for the M52. The M52TU did have a double VANOS issue that presents itself on cold days. The RPMS fluctuate from normal idle to almost stalling until the car warms up. The VANOS needs to be replaced ($500 part, dealership special tools to install) or the seals in the VANOS need to be replaced. Details here: http://www.beisansystems.com/ The M54 apparently has the same issue with the seals, but has DME programming to avoid the fluctuating idle.
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Jan 17, 2009 02:40
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Well I found a new issue or i found the cause of an old one. I haven't had power steering for about a month, got a new PS Pump last week, hadn't gotten around to installing it though, and today while checking my fluid levels, I noticed the idler pulley was missing, and the channel for the bearings had worn a groove in my belt. Any thoughts as to how much tension a PS Pump needs? I can still see it turning, but I don't know if it's under constant slip or something. The other pulleys are turning fine, water temp hasn't risen, and the alternator seems fine. tl;dr Can a belt with enough tension to turn everything else turn a power steering pump.
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Jan 17, 2009 02:58
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Brock Landers posted:The M52TU did have a double VANOS issue that presents itself on cold days. The RPMS fluctuate from normal idle to almost stalling until the car warms up. The VANOS needs to be replaced ($500 part, dealership special tools to install) or the seals in the VANOS need to be replaced. Details here: http://www.beisansystems.com/ My 99 M3 (S52B32US) has the same issue, except that I've been told that it's an oil pressure issue - until pressure builds in the head, that the hydraulic lifters may stick a wee bit and you'll get an extraordinarily rough idle for the first 15-45 seconds. If you're going to replace the seals, might as well replace the entire VANOS unit with a DrVanos unit. Check bimmerforums.
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Jan 17, 2009 03:19
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