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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Nuts to your Leicas and Bronicas. http://www.boyofblue.com/cameras/yama/yama02.html <- fixed link. And that's truly bizarre.
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Jan 10, 2009 13:29
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TokenBrit posted:http://www.boyofblue.com/cameras/yama/yama02.html <- fixed link.
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Jan 10, 2009 20:31
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longview posted:Just shot my first roll of T-Max P3200... I just shot my first spool of the same stuff off today, at the Gaza protest in Aberdeen. Developing it later this evening, see if it's any good(been kept in the fridge, but slightly out of date!)
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Jan 10, 2009 20:55
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Nuts to your Leicas and Bronicas. Or make your red filters out of BLOOD. http://www.boyofblue.com/cameras/hiv.html
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Jan 10, 2009 21:32
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Can someone recommend someone that can do mail-in LF drum scans (or someone in the SoCal area that does walk-ins)? I just went and shot my first 10 4x5's today, using Arista 100. My light meter told me that at f64 one of them was an 8 minute exposure, so we'll see how that comes out. I sent them off using my local camera shop (Oceanside Photo & Telescope), but they wanted $10 for each scan and the lady helping me had no idea if they were drum scans. I'm not paying $10 each for flatbed scans. It was an interesting perspective shooting 4x5, and I really enjoyed it. There was a purpose and a rythm to it that reminded me of when all I had was a Pentax K1000, a couple bottles of chemicals and a college darkroom. It also made me appreciate digital too- like the fact that it will be days before I know if it completely sucked, so I have to rely on copious notes. I think I would kill for a LF camera that encoded the aperture and shutter speed on the edge of the negative. For those considering LF, it was fairly simple to load, but instead of just picking up a roll and throwing it in, I had to make a darkroom just to load the negatives. It took me about a minute for each one, which is not bad, but it's not going to allow you to catch that 'quick shot' if you don't have any handy. I'd love to find a polaroid back for it, but I am having trouble finding a back for my Speed Graphic that is both obtainable and for which they still make polaroid film. I also developed 3 rolls of 120, and will post later when they're dry.
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Jan 11, 2009 02:50
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hybr1d posted:Can someone recommend someone that can do mail-in LF drum scans (or someone in the SoCal area that does walk-ins)? For $10 I can pretty much guarantee they weren't drum scans. You're looking at 10-20x that for a high quality 4x5 drum scan.
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Jan 11, 2009 03:16
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hybr1d posted:Can someone recommend someone that can do mail-in LF drum scans (or someone in the SoCal area that does walk-ins)? If you want realllly long exposures and REALLLLY cheap film, just cut down photographic printing paper, its roughly ISO 3, can be cut, loaded, and even developed under a safelight(develop like you would a print) and is so ridiculously cheap compared to buying actual 4x5 film you really can't not shoot some, especially if you have some paper already. As far as scanning goes, 4x5 has so much resolution you can practically just use a decent flatbed scanner, unless you absolutely must print billboard sizes.
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Jan 11, 2009 03:46
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Thanks for the suggestions- I will stick to contact sheets except when I want something printed huge. Looking at some of the colors in large format photos taken, I think I am going to shoot some color next. Quick question: With extremely small apertures like 64, and exposure times running in the minutes, should I expect to see softer pictures of truly stationary objects like buildings, mountains, etc?
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Jan 11, 2009 17:17
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hybr1d posted:Thanks for the suggestions- I will stick to contact sheets except when I want something printed huge. Looking at some of the colors in large format photos taken, I think I am going to shoot some color next. Because 4x5 is such a large format, diffraction is waaaayyyy less of a problem than it is on 35mm or other small formats. For instance, whereas with your average 35mm lens, the optimal aperture is f8 or so, it will often be f22 or f32 on a large format lens. Unless you were talking about motion blur, in which case no, so long as the camera and the subject are still, you will get sharp results.
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Jan 11, 2009 17:25
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hybr1d posted:Thanks for the suggestions- I will stick to contact sheets except when I want something printed huge. Looking at some of the colors in large format photos taken, I think I am going to shoot some color next. Nah, you'll be fine. One thing you'll find though is that you generally won't see any people since they don't stick around long enough to register. 
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Jan 11, 2009 18:19
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johnasavoia posted:If you want realllly long exposures and REALLLLY cheap film, just cut down photographic printing paper, its roughly ISO 3, can be cut, loaded, and even developed under a safelight(develop like you would a print) and is so ridiculously cheap compared to buying actual 4x5 film you really can't not shoot some, especially if you have some paper already. As far as scanning goes, 4x5 has so much resolution you can practically just use a decent flatbed scanner, unless you absolutely must print billboard sizes. Ilford has some Ilfochrome (formerly Cibachrome) plastic base "paper" that's supposed to be used for outdoor advertisment purposes, and it seems to be easier to develop at home than normal color process. Highly accurate color rendition, azo coloring that never fades... I want to use it for a huge box camera some time.
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Jan 11, 2009 18:39
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johnasavoia posted:Because 4x5 is such a large format, diffraction is waaaayyyy less of a problem than it is on 35mm or other small formats. For instance, whereas with your average 35mm lens, the optimal aperture is f8 or so, it will often be f22 or f32 on a large format lens. Unless you were talking about motion blur, in which case no, so long as the camera and the subject are still, you will get sharp results. This is great news It was fun going outside of my norms that I am used to with digital or 35mm, and it was pretty weird using my watch for metering shutter speeds.Clayton Bigsby posted:Nah, you'll be fine. One thing you'll find though is that you generally won't see any people since they don't stick around long enough to register. This has some really cool potential, but I am actually looking at doing some modelling with some color film and the same camera. I think some bright lights and larger apertures are probably in order
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Jan 11, 2009 21:48
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hybr1d posted:...I just went and shot my first 10 4x5's today, using Arista 100. My light meter told me that at f64 one of them was an 8 minute exposure... At 8 minutes did you take reciprocity into account? Also, can someone recommend a 120 B&W film for landscapes? I've only really used faster films for street work so it's all a bit new to me.
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Jan 11, 2009 22:34
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Can you be more specific about reciprocity? There's a very good chance that none of my first 10 shots on this format and this camera came out as usable negatives, but we'll have to see what the results are. I intentionally went for different shutter speed and aperture combinations, so we'll see if the 8 minute shot really came through or not.
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Jan 11, 2009 23:34
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TokenBrit posted:At 8 minutes did you take reciprocity into account? Delta 100 with a red filter as always given me lovely results.
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Jan 12, 2009 02:43
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I'm looking on Keh.com for a nice lil' used F4 and I see a lot of them are denoted "LEADER OUT MODIFIED." What does this mean and functionally what will it mean for me? Because there's this BGN F4e that is just singing out to me, but I just don't know what the implications of this leader out mod business are.
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Jan 12, 2009 12:16
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pwn posted:I'm looking on Keh.com for a nice lil' used F4 and I see a lot of them are denoted "LEADER OUT MODIFIED." What does this mean and functionally what will it mean for me? Because there's this BGN F4e that is just singing out to me, but I just don't know what the implications of this leader out mod business are.
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Jan 12, 2009 12:50
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Tukker posted:AFAIK the leader modification (enabling the leader to stay out when a roll of film is loaded) gives you manual rewind and thus double exposures.  ,) but does that mean I can still use the motor driven rewind and whatnot that the MB-23 pack affords? As in, with this modification, am I stuck with manual rewind only? I'm partly confused because the F4 cameras with this mod seem to cost less on Keh.com than those without it, and I don't know whether to take that to mean the mod helps or handicaps the camera (possibly it's lower just it's because it's so-called "collectors" value is affected by the mod.) Thanks for the help.
pwn fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Jan 12, 2009 |
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Jan 12, 2009 14:14
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pwn posted:Sorry if this is a stupid question, as I'm pretty new to film still (wasted a roll of lovely Ilford HP5 last month when I hadn't threaded it properly To be honest, I've never handled one of these (modded or not) but I'd imagine the motor rewind should work fine. I think it's just that you can choose to leave the leader sticking out even when a roll is loaded so you can rewind when you want to do a double exposure. The guys at keh.com can probably answer this better than me. BTW, I've never quite seen the need for a motorized rewind. It only takes me a few seconds on my Praktica B200, plus I usually carry two bodies with two different kinds of film
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Jan 12, 2009 15:09
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pwn posted:I'm looking on Keh.com for a nice lil' used F4 and I see a lot of them are denoted "LEADER OUT MODIFIED." What does this mean and functionally what will it mean for me? Because there's this BGN F4e that is just singing out to me, but I just don't know what the implications of this leader out mod business are.
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Jan 12, 2009 21:23
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Luxmore posted:Automatic rewind on the F4 pulls the leader into the film cartridge by default, but you could have Nikon modify the camera to leave the film leader out, so you could more easily rewind mid-roll and then reload. Also makes it so you don't have to use a film retriever tool or pop the can open when loading reels if you develop at home.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:11
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pwn posted:I'm looking on Keh.com for a nice lil' used F4 and I see a lot of them are denoted "LEADER OUT MODIFIED." What does this mean and functionally what will it mean for me? Because there's this BGN F4e that is just singing out to me, but I just don't know what the implications of this leader out mod business are. Just curious, for what reasons are you going with an F4?
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Jan 13, 2009 05:35
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killabyte posted:Just curious, for what reasons are you going with an F4? 
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Jan 13, 2009 05:48
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The Lomographic Society store seems to have Yashica Electro 35 GSNs available for $250. Not cheap, but they've been inspected and all that so it wouldn't be a big crapshoot like eBay. Thoughts? http://shop.lomography.com/shop/shop_product_view.php?artID=6945
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Jan 13, 2009 09:08
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killabyte posted:Just curious, for what reasons are you going with an F4? Do you need to ask? Actually, I think the endorsement of Kenny means you should think about what you're about to buy one extra time.
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Jan 13, 2009 09:09
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HPL posted:The Lomographic Society store seems to have Yashica Electro 35 GSNs available for $250. Not cheap, but they've been inspected and all that so it wouldn't be a big crapshoot like eBay. Thoughts? That is such a terrible deal. Do not ever buy anything from the lomo people.
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Jan 13, 2009 09:24
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HPL posted:The Lomographic Society store seems to have Yashica Electro 35 GSNs available for $250. Not cheap, but they've been inspected and all that so it wouldn't be a big crapshoot like eBay. Thoughts? When you can go on ebay and buy 8 or 9 for that price, I'd say it's worth the crap shoot. I've been stalking for one lately, and there are often buy it now auctions for $75-100 from dudes who checked it out, replaced the seals, and guarantee it works fine if you're really worried. Also gently caress, I'll have to find another cheap rangefinder to get b/c the lomo people are claiming it as hipster territory. Jahoodie fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 02:41
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Why are these medium format rangefinders thousands of dollars? 
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Jan 14, 2009 05:17
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porcellus posted:Why are these medium format rangefinders thousands of dollars? Rarity/craft. I really prefer other systems for MF; Personally, RFs are ideal for their small size, not because it's a superior focusing system.
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Jan 14, 2009 05:38
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Jahoodie posted:Also gently caress, I'll have to find another cheap rangefinder to get b/c the lomo people are claiming it as hipster territory. I'm thinking Yashica Lynx now. 50mm f/1.4 with manual controls? Hell yeah.
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Jan 14, 2009 08:21
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Not enough LF love up in here. To toot my own horn a bit....  These were from the last show I was in, enlarged to 30x40" with little to no detail loss. I use Kodak Portra NC160 exclusively, shot by my Shen-Hao wooden 4x5 with a 135mm Nikkor lens (almost baseline lens diameter for 4x5 -- maybe a little bit wider). Granted, this is a pretty low-res version of the image -- in the full one you can see every speck of dust on the deer's eyes. If you medium-format guys haven't tried it yet, you really ought to. It's a very time-consuming process, but once you get used to it, there's little turning back without disappointment. Every shot requires patience and forethought. You'll never make photographs the same way again. Don't get me wrong, I spent a few years shooting exclusively 6x6. But when you hold one of these processed sheets of film in your hand, it's a great feeling. Developing black and white is a time-consuming and frightening process at first, as you're going tray-to-tray with highly sensitive material in pitch-black darkness, but you get used to it. After you learn how to properly handle film by hand, it's just as easy as roll-film. Don't let it intimidate you! I'll check this thread from time-to-time, happy to answer any 4x5 or 8x10 questions.
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Jan 15, 2009 04:07
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how can i shoot lf really cheaply? what is the cheapest 8x10 i can possibly get?
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Jan 15, 2009 04:09
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Reichstag posted:how can i shoot lf really cheaply? what is the cheapest 8x10 i can possibly get? Cheapest LF would be a pinhole camera, either made yourself or http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/151567-REG/Santa_Barbara_SWA2B_4_x_5_Pinhole.html or something similar. Or, for more control, a speed or crown graphic will get you a decent 4x5 press camera often with at least a lens, if not film holders. 8x10 is going to be expensive no matter what, if you're lucky you can find a beat up ancient 8x10 with no lens and no film holders for 300-400 on ebay.
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Jan 15, 2009 06:35
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I want to see some pictures of the rangefinders/MF/LF stuff you guys have.
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Jan 15, 2009 12:51
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w_hat posted:I want to see some pictures of the rangefinders/MF/LF stuff you guys have. My Crown Graphic 4x5, sadly mine does not have the graphlex back, so I'm limited to just standard film holders, no readyloads or 6x9 backs :/ has a 127/4.5 Ektar lens which barely covers the format.  A 4x5 folder, I assume, since its literally a box with bellows on in that is roughly 4x5, not even close to light tight, the back especially, I have shot with this, though with a coat over the entire thing to block light.  Roleicord 75/3.5, I dont use this nearly as much as I wish I did, I'll be back in the darkroom in a few weeks though so that WILL change.  My Zorki 4, a russian Leica IIIf(I think...) copy, with 50/3.5 collapsible lens.  6x9 120 folder, focus is stuck at ~10feet sadly, I have other 6x7 folders but they are 620 film(and 6x9 is soooo much nicer) I've still shot a few rolls of street with this, ~10 feet ends up being fine in that case.  Pentax 645, first version, with 75/2.8, HUGE camera, HUGE beautiful viewfinder, HUGE LOUD KU-LUNK mirror, I have the 220 back, but you can use 120 film in it no problem.  I have a few more 35mm rangefinders, mostly fixed lens, and a couple 620 folders, as well as some brownies and what not, but this is the nicest stuff.
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Jan 15, 2009 17:31
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I managed to badly fog my first batch of LF 4x5. At least the shop didn't charge me for the first batch. I have some things I know I did wrong, so I am going to go after my 2nd attempt this weekend.
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Jan 15, 2009 17:34
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I can get a canon elan 7e with grip for 125. Worth jumping on? I have a 40d already so I could use my 50 1.8 I believe.
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Jan 16, 2009 00:27
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Hollis Brown posted:I can get a canon elan 7e with grip for 125. Worth jumping on? I have a 40d already so I could use my 50 1.8 I believe. It's not a bad deal and not a good deal. You can get an EX+ 7e w/ grip for $122 from KEH.
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Jan 16, 2009 00:34
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My local camera store had a ME super with the rewind handle missing (rewind still works, just a pain) and offered it to me for 25, I asked if I could swipe the handle from my k1000(one of two, and I use neither) and he offered me a trade, k1000 for ME Super, threw in a roll of Delta100 too. I've always wanted an M series Pentax, this isn't the MX or LX I've dreamed of, but its drat tiny and a joy to shoot with.
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Jan 16, 2009 04:59
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You know what sucks? Finally getting an OM-4T, and having it drain a pair of fresh SR-44 batteries (:tenbux: at Radioshack) within 3 days/20 shots. At least KEH takes returns... glad I didn't get it on eBay. Question about the film inside: the camera died in mid-shot, with the shutter open. I kind of left it like that (no lens cap) for 1-2 minutes while I was troubleshooting. Would the rest of the roll likely be exposed because of that? We're not talking about high-quality, awesome photographs, but wondering if I should even bother with developing it.
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Jan 16, 2009 05:22
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