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CommieGIR posted:Yeah after I looked at mine, it just slides in and out for different reaches, it has a square center to keep it straight. speaking of sliding in and out, I can't get this puppy to move at all. Any ideas?
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Jan 7, 2009 01:03
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Gavitron posted:That's almost as awful as the theft man. Sounds like some tweakers just didn't want to walk home in the ice & snow. At least they didn't total it. Someone else told me to call them aswell. I will check with them. If the interior is trashed, it may get written off.
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Jan 7, 2009 01:10
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jonathan posted:Someone else told me to call them aswell. I will check with them. Yeah, Bryson's a solid guy from the little I know about him - he's flat out told me to buy stuff from not-him because he couldn't beat the price. When I lift my Jeep, I'll be going to him first.
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Jan 7, 2009 01:23
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Just tell me to buy it already, im not too familiar with a inline6 but I really dont want a 4 banger. gonna see it tomorrow http://honolulu.craigslist.org/big/cto/982510159.html
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Jan 7, 2009 05:57
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Rhett posted:Just tell me to buy it already, im not too familiar with a inline6 but I really dont want a 4 banger. gonna see it tomorrow Oh just buy it EDIT: Go buy an XJ CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jan 7, 2009 |
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Jan 7, 2009 14:14
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Don't buy it, it'll eat you.
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Jan 7, 2009 15:25
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jonathan posted:The police just called me back and said "All the tires are bent". I'm not sure exactly what that means but I certainly hope they fix my bent tires ! I'd get it back *post pics*, either fix it or strip it for parts. This next weekend is going to be fun, I got my set of browndog motor mounts in and scored a set of tow hook brackets. I get to install all that and a front skid I've had sitting in my shed. Do need to get my hands on a set of hooks thou as the brackets don't have them. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 8, 2009 06:49
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 Got my BFG MT's on and picked up the roof basket this morning.
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Jan 10, 2009 22:06
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Veeb0rg posted:Got my BFG MT's on and picked up the roof basket this morning. Time to load some gear on top and go camping!
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Jan 11, 2009 04:40
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Veeb0rg posted:
Paint rims black
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Jan 11, 2009 05:31
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jonathan posted:Paint rims black it is in the plan, but chrome is such a pain to paint, plus its freakin cold out. Once it warms up it will happen.
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Jan 11, 2009 07:16
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http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/983288418.html posted:Title: JEEP wheels 15" alloy - $175 (milwaukee) Can someone post a pic of what the gently caress a pizza cutter style wheel looks like? Yes, I GISed it, but I get a variety of results, including kitchen implements. Also, can you post a wheel source saying that they sell pizza cutter wheels?
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Jan 11, 2009 22:03
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Pizza cutter wheels are the wheels you see on the front of drag cars. They're 3.5" wide or sometimes even thinner.
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Jan 11, 2009 22:44
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xopher.white posted:Can someone post a pic of what the gently caress a pizza cutter style wheel looks like? Yes, I GISed it, but I get a variety of results, including kitchen implements. Also, can you post a wheel source saying that they sell pizza cutter wheels?
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Jan 11, 2009 23:40
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xopher.white posted:Can someone post a pic of what the gently caress a pizza cutter style wheel looks like? Yes, I GISed it, but I get a variety of results, including kitchen implements. Also, can you post a wheel source saying that they sell pizza cutter wheels? Maybe he means the Cherokee donut which fits in the back on the side, it's pretty narrow.
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Jan 12, 2009 03:29
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Ahh, I was looking for an obscure styling reference, not the more obvious functionality reference. Thanks gents!
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Jan 12, 2009 07:29
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Wondering if you guys could help a car idiot out. I went to boost my dads car today and after opening the hood I discovered this nice surprise. I'm a cartard so I have no idea what this hose is for or runs to. Wondering if you could help me out. Also is it safe to drive until it's fixed? It's a '90 Cherokee with the 4L i6.  Click here for the full 768x576 image.  Click here for the full 768x576 image.  Click here for the full 768x576 image.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:00
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Looks like a coolant overflow hose. If you overheat, excess coolant will release itself from that hose. It's normal, I'd route it down towards the bottom away from any electrical bits, or leave it as is if you don't know what you're doing.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:09
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BigKOfJustice posted:Looks like a coolant overflow hose. If you overheat, excess coolant will release itself from that hose. It looks like it used to connect to the hose on the right through the bracket thing. Is it okay just to leave it there?
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Jan 13, 2009 01:25
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Well the loose one on the left is the crankcase breather/PCV valve. It just vents into the airbox normally and gets processed through the intake but because you have a cold air intake with no box to plug into, it's just sitting there which is fine.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:29
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Alright, well I did notice some liquid coming out of it dripping down if that changes anything.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:31
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It's cool, it's just your engine expelling some combustion gases and oil vapor. You'd normally never notice it because it gets sucked up in the intake. EDIT: It does seem to be leaving a nice sticky residue on your manifold though. I'd try to route it somewhere else so it won't make a mess. I think most aftermarket intakes have fittings to couple those two loose lines into the intake tube, is that some sort of homebrew filter? Waffleimages is being poopy... my photobucket hosting. 
Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jan 13, 2009 |
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Jan 13, 2009 01:35
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Philip J Fry posted:It's cool, it's just your engine expelling some combustion gases and oil vapor. You'd normally never notice it because it gets sucked up in the intake. Alright thanks a lot for the help 
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Jan 13, 2009 01:36
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Philip J Fry posted:It's cool, it's just your engine expelling some combustion gases and oil vapor. You'd normally never notice it because it gets sucked up in the intake. I'm guessing it was routed through that bracket to the hose on the right side that is missing an attachment. Whatdya think? This is definitely a surprise to me because I definitely would have noticed this before when looking at my engine bay. Like so:  Click here for the full 768x576 image. Where the hose has been cut could I just... I don't know, duct tape/electrical tape it together and run another hose to the right side or is the pressure too high and I'm an idiot? Or just take it to a shop and let them deal with it. It's too cold out to start doing anything myself. mcvey fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Jan 13, 2009 |
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Jan 13, 2009 02:11
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Actually, I think the hose on the left is the intake part of the vacuum system an there should be another at the back near the #6 cylinder ('exhaust') which ends up coming out of the hose on the right. The system is unable to circulate itself properly and vent into the intake manifold. Basically, you're sucking in some unfiltered air into the crankcase. I've never messed around with CAI systems, so I can't say for sure if there's any real reason for concern or not. I'd say ask the shop about it as it should be an easy enough fix to just tap the vacuum into the CAI tube or replace it with one with proper fittings. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jan 13, 2009 |
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Jan 13, 2009 02:53
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mcvey posted:I'm guessing it was routed through that bracket to the hose on the right side that is missing an attachment. Whatdya think? This is definitely a surprise to me because I definitely would have noticed this before when looking at my engine bay. Remove that elbow the hose is connected to (ccv valve I think) and replace it with an open breather element. Basically a small air filter looking thing will stick out of the top of the valve cover. What you need will be over in the ricer section. like this  just shoved in that hole. there are also chrome looking ones where you can't see the element. Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jan 13, 2009 |
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Jan 13, 2009 03:06
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 Click here for the full 604x453 image. Bought her 3 years ago at 73,000+ miles. And with 101,000+ shes still running strong.
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Jan 13, 2009 04:51
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My friends Mom just gave me her 95 Grand Cherokee with 130,000 miles on it. I fixed the brake lines and put a new battery to get it onto the road. After driving it for the day I've noticed the transmission acting up. It goes into every gear fine, but when I try to go up hill it doesn't seem to want to down shift to give me the power needed. Even when I floor it the RPM's wont go over 2,000. I can cruise in normal city driving conditions, but since it doesn't rev any high I cant reach anything past 50 MPH. Anyone know what could be causing this?
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Jan 13, 2009 07:12
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Ethox posted:My friends Mom just gave me her 95 Grand Cherokee with 130,000 miles on it. I fixed the brake lines and put a new battery to get it onto the road. After driving it for the day I've noticed the transmission acting up. It goes into every gear fine, but when I try to go up hill it doesn't seem to want to down shift to give me the power needed. Even when I floor it the RPM's wont go over 2,000. I can cruise in normal city driving conditions, but since it doesn't rev any high I cant reach anything past 50 MPH. Anyone know what could be causing this? Speaking from out of my rear end, it could be that the "kick down" or "throttle valve" cable is mis adjusted. This is assuming the transmission isn't computer controlled. Basically I'm just answering with 80's era Mustang knowledge. On an unrelated note: Chrysler 8.25" rear diff. Good or bad ? What about with a locker ? I assume it's better than the Dana35 and Dana30, but worse than the Dana44 ? Can it live with 33" tires ? What about 35" ? The reason I ask is because if ICBC decides that my XJ is a writeoff, and want to pay me out, I might purchase this: http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/cto/990856707.html if he comes down in price a bit. 180,000 km isn't bad for the mileage, and according to a local forum, it's a pavement princess.
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Jan 13, 2009 14:07
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jonathan posted:On an unrelated note: Chrysler 8.25" rear diff. Good or bad ? What about with a locker ? I assume it's better than the Dana35 and Dana30, but worse than the Dana44 ? Can it live with 33" tires ? What about 35" ? There are two variations of the 8.25: 27 spline and 29 spline ('97 and up, I believe). D44's are 8.5 and have 30 spline shafts, so they are fairly close in terms of strength. I'd definitely recommend regearing to at least 4.56 if you intend on running 33's and upgrading the shafts with 1541H Yukon alloys for 35's to deal with the added torque and will handle a locker as well. Or, you can hunt around for a Ford 8.8 to swap in with no worries and get discs in the rear, too. Of course a lot of it depends on your driving habits and luck as well. I ran 33's on my YJ with the stock 3.07/D35c for years and never had a problem.
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Jan 13, 2009 15:48
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Anyone have any thoughts on how to prevent winch theft? I've seen bolt locks, putting a spot of weld on the nut, what do you gents use?
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Jan 13, 2009 23:57
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Ok guys, I'm in Florida at the moment and I'm seriously considering picking up a Wrangler while I'm here......If I can talk the wife into it  What I need to know is which TJ's are the best? Should I spend the money for a later one, or are the earlier ones just as good? There are early TJ's (97's) going for around 5k, seems pretty good but I'm wondering if I should just splurge and get a low mileage 04 or something.
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Jan 14, 2009 01:56
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leica posted:Ok guys, I'm in Florida at the moment and I'm seriously considering picking up a Wrangler while I'm here......If I can talk the wife into it 03-06 Rubicon and be done.
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Jan 14, 2009 02:08
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Boomerjinks posted:Anyone have any thoughts on how to prevent winch theft? I've seen bolt locks, putting a spot of weld on the nut, what do you gents use? I'd spot tack weld anything that can be unbolted easily, this goes for lights. If they really want it, they'll have to rob the rig and strip it elsewhere. Another option is to get a after market bumper which is designed for winch use. You can install the winch inside the frame rails or behind the bumper and everything is enclosed. If they want to steal it, they'll have to take apart your front end. On the bumper side of things, I know one guy who got sick and tired of poo poo being stolen off his truck he put a reinforced bumper with a receiver hitch on the front, and uses a removable receiver winch. He also made his light and radio racks removable with quick release pins so he can strip out his truck when it's not on the trail.
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Jan 14, 2009 02:54
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:03-06 Rubicon and be done. I won't be off roading it so I'd rather not pay the premium for a Rubicon. Wrangler Sports are what I'm currently checking out. Did the earlier TJ's have any teething issues?
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Jan 14, 2009 04:50
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leica posted:I won't be off roading it so I'd rather not pay the premium for a Rubicon. Wrangler Sports are what I'm currently checking out. There's a pretty good reason to pay the premium for axles that won't ever explode if you decide to pull a heavy load, and Rubicons come with 4.10 gears stock. Both front and rear axles also operate as limited-slip when not locked. Even if you don't plan to go off road much, I think these things are worth the extra cost. On the other hand, D44 rears were available on the Sport, and you can find many with 3.73s and some with 4.10s. Just watch out for 3.07s, they seem to be the most common in the Dana 35. I didn't even bother to check the gear ratio when I bought mine and that's what I ended up with. The performance is surprisingly good, even with 32s, but I'm definitely moving down a size or two when these tires wear out.
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Jan 14, 2009 05:03
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Ethox posted:My friends Mom just gave me her 95 Grand Cherokee with 130,000 miles on it. I fixed the brake lines and put a new battery to get it onto the road. After driving it for the day I've noticed the transmission acting up. It goes into every gear fine, but when I try to go up hill it doesn't seem to want to down shift to give me the power needed. Even when I floor it the RPM's wont go over 2,000. I can cruise in normal city driving conditions, but since it doesn't rev any high I cant reach anything past 50 MPH. Anyone know what could be causing this? jonathan's option of the Tv cable is a decent one, so is the Throttle Position Sensor (which is how the PCM decides where the accelerator is, and thus how to shift and run). In a perfect world the TPS would quit working how Jeep expects it should and throw a code; in the real world it often fails in a way that impacts drivability but offers no other signs. Just for the hell of it, turn the key from OFF to RUN three times quickly, write down how the check engine light flashes, and post back here. It'll flash you a series of two-digit numbers using short gaps to indicate digit position and long gaps to indicate a new code. 32, for example, would be F.F.F...F.F...... 55 indicates the end of codes, so you can turn it off at that point. Edit: According to the 95 service manual, the light by the O/D switch should also flash, reading out codes from the transmission module. So get those too. You can do the key trick as many times as you need to. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 18:05
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My 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee wobbles like crazy when I get up to about 50 and just gets worse from there. I just had the tires rotated, balanced, and my shocks checked. What could be causing the crazy wobbling, it's starting to worry me and feels like the thing is coming apart.
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Jan 15, 2009 04:34
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Reason posted:My 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee wobbles like crazy when I get up to about 50 and just gets worse from there. I just had the tires rotated, balanced, and my shocks checked. What could be causing the crazy wobbling, it's starting to worry me and feels like the thing is coming apart. Before you get into anything mechanical, make sure mud hasn't caked up on one of the wheels in a weird way. We used to have this problem with one of our older cherokees in the muddy seasons. The problem was solved by taking the tires off and tapping the inside with a hammer a few good times, just don't bend the rims.
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Jan 15, 2009 05:05
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Does anyone know any magic fixes for the common door lock problems on the yj? The little Z-shaped metal piece that connects to the cylinder is too weak and gets bent to where when you turn the key in the lock the mechanism only turns half-way (ie not far enough to lock/unlock the doors). Both my driver's and passenger's doors have had this happen 2-3 times each. I'm getting tired of pulling the interior door panels off to manually re-bend the Z-shaped piece to get it to work again. Seriously I stick my hand in there with a pair of pliers and shape it to where it will work again but it is pissing me off. 
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Jan 15, 2009 06:10
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