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So I've decided to put some serious power into my Legacy GT - I've already got a Perrin catless uppipe, Perrin catted downpipe, and Perrin top mount intercooler sitting in my garage (Haven't installed any of these yet). I figure that since I'm going to have the install professionally done, I might as well go whole hog, and just replace the turbo while I've at it - I've got a Deadbolt 18G on order. I figure with all this and a proper tune, I should be pushing around 320 horsepower at the wheels. While I'm doing all of this, should I replace the catback exhaust too? I've generally regarding CBE as a somewhat unnecessary modification, but I figure it might help the new turbo breathe a bit better. My train of thought in this is since I'm going to need to pay for a tune for my Accessport, I might as well do all the mods at once and only need to buy a single tune. If I were to replace it, I figure I'd replace it with the one Borla makes - most of the other ones sound far too ricey and loud. (I guess the old Corvette owner side of me is kicking in - from the sound clips I've heard, the Borla makes almost a V8 sort of rumble). It's amazed me how much more willing I've been to sink money into this than my old C5. With the KW Tarmac 1's and swaybars I've put on, this thing handles like a dream too - however, the stock tires need to go too.
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Jan 15, 2009 08:03
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it will certainly help. We recently tuned an sti with a cutout off the downpipe and an external wastegate, and it made about the most power anyone has ever seen on the stock turbo. 365whp on about 95 octane (stock reads 230ish). Replacing the header and up-pipe will see more gains than just the up-pipe as well. I really like the gt-spec/mad dad/tomei EL parts. They do make a slightly different sound though. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Jan 15, 2009 |
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Jan 15, 2009 08:31
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jamal posted:wow. Someone who knows what they're doing can do it in less than 3 hours. :/ well I certainly hope all this time they're taking means they're doing it right. The last thing I want is for something to go wrong related to a poor install right after I'm out from under warranty. Do dealerships ever do any kind of labor guarantee on work that's done right before the regular warranty is up?
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Jan 15, 2009 08:45
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jamal posted:wow. Someone who knows what they're doing can do it in less than 3 hours. Gah, this is more true than most know. I could do it in 2 with an hour's break. Subarus have the easiest AWD trannies to swap bar none. My boss can swap a box, by himself, in 15 minutes if he's got a lift and two tranny jack with everything already lined up.
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Jan 15, 2009 08:51
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Turbo Car posted:Gah, this is more true than most know. I could do it in 2 with an hour's break. this makes me wonder if they're repairing it, not replacing it... service duder told me they were replacing the whole thing, wonder if he's talking out of his rear end.
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Jan 15, 2009 09:01
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MMD3 posted:this makes me wonder if they're repairing it, not replacing it... service duder told me they were replacing the whole thing, wonder if he's talking out of his rear end. quote:I just got a call an hour ago that apparently they need a few pins and a nut that they didn't order so now they have to overnight those. Uhhh, why didn't you realize this on Monday? The only pieces you would need to swap should be easily on hand or obtainable and certainly I cant think of a nut off the top of my head that needs to be replaced on a gearbox swap. My guess is that they cracked the box open and found things were not good inside. The service guy might of meant they were replacing all the internals. As others have said, a Subaru's gearbox is a piss easy swap for a gearbox.
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Jan 15, 2009 09:17
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no way did a saab dealership crack open a subaru gearbox. If I had to guess they broke one of the spring pins on the axle and rounded off a nut on the bellhousing or something. Those bottom ones are pretty easy to gently caress up if you don't have a really short wobbly socket. I think it bugs the snap-on guy when I buy individual sockets. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:29 on Jan 15, 2009 |
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Jan 15, 2009 09:23
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jamal posted:it will certainly help. We recently tuned an sti with a cutout off the downpipe and an external wastegate, and it made about the most power anyone has ever seen on the stock turbo. 365whp on about 95 octane (stock reads 230ish). Primary issue I have with replacing the header is that all the equal length ones make the car sound really gross. Are there any decent unequal length ones out there?
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Jan 15, 2009 09:50
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TeamIce posted:Primary issue I have with replacing the header is that all the equal length ones make the car sound really gross. Are there any decent unequal length ones out there? these are really good. They come with an up-pipe, so you'd have to sell that perrin. rallysportdirect has good prices, although I might be able to get them for a bit less.
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Jan 15, 2009 10:23
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jamal posted:no way did a saab dealership crack open a subaru gearbox. loving sigh... talked to the service duder again, yeah, they replaced the whole thing. He kept repeating how they haven't had to do one of these before so they want to make sure they do it right... okay, I get that but, 3 days? really? so he called just now to tell me that they had it back in and everything put back together but the mechanic needed to bleed the lines and that would take driving around for a bit and he wanted to make sure everything was good so I'll have to pick it up tomorrow morning. I certainly hope I don't have to take my car back to the dealership again before my warranty is up. Time to find a good Subaru mechanic in PDX.
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Jan 16, 2009 01:29
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TeamIce posted:So I've decided to put some serious power into my Legacy GT - I've already got a Perrin catless uppipe, Perrin catted downpipe, and Perrin top mount intercooler sitting in my garage (Haven't installed any of these yet). I figure that since I'm going to have the install professionally done, I might as well go whole hog, and just replace the turbo while I've at it - I've got a Deadbolt 18G on order. I figure with all this and a proper tune, I should be pushing around 320 horsepower at the wheels. However, there was some guy with a pretty heavily modified LGT wagon here running to stock cans (though I believe the rest was replaced). There is some value in it as it runs quiet as hell, pretty sleepy.
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Jan 16, 2009 07:22
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MMD3 posted:loving sigh... talked to the service duder again, yeah, they replaced the whole thing. He kept repeating how they haven't had to do one of these before so they want to make sure they do it right... okay, I get that but, 3 days? really? uh, you said it was a manual, right? There aren't any lines he would have to bleed. Call surgeline tuning. If they don't do service stuff they'll be able to direct you to a good place that does.
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Jan 16, 2009 08:24
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jamal posted:uh, you said it was a manual, right? There aren't any lines he would have to bleed. eh... when I go to pick it up tomorrow I'll try to find out what exactly they were bleeding or having to do that made me wait an extra day. I've been by Surgeline, great guys, if/when I go the Cobb Stage 2 route I'll have them do it. They're a little out of the way though so I'd rather find someone for the standard stuff inbetween home and work. I'll ask them if they can recommend someone though when I'm out from under my warranty.
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Jan 16, 2009 09:13
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jamal posted:uh, you said it was a manual, right? There aren't any lines he would have to bleed. Clutch line
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Jan 16, 2009 09:23
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oh yeah. not like it takes more than 2 minutes though.
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Jan 16, 2009 09:35
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It took 3 days to swap a transmission that can be done in well under 2 hours. Nothing is outside of the realm of possibilities. More than likely though they had someone working on it who had no idea what he was doing and took way too long and they are trying to come up with a good enough story to stall for more time.
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Jan 16, 2009 10:04
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TeamIce posted:So I've decided to put some serious power into my Legacy GT - I've already got a Perrin catless uppipe, Perrin catted downpipe, and Perrin top mount intercooler sitting in my garage (Haven't installed any of these yet). I figure that since I'm going to have the install professionally done, I might as well go whole hog, and just replace the turbo while I've at it - I've got a Deadbolt 18G on order. I figure with all this and a proper tune, I should be pushing around 320 horsepower at the wheels. I had as Greddy SP2 catback on my wagon and loved the poo poo out of it.
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Jan 16, 2009 16:32
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ChunksNensja posted:It took 3 days to swap a transmission that can be done in well under 2 hours. Nothing is outside of the realm of possibilities. another call from service dept. "stop by around 3:30 and we'll have it ready by then. I just need them to take it on one more test drive and we'll be set" ...you told me last night at 4 that you wouldn't be able to have it to me by 5 because they had to take it on one last drive. wtf.
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Jan 16, 2009 21:00
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MMD3 posted:another call from service dept. "stop by around 3:30 and we'll have it ready by then. I just need them to take it on one more test drive and we'll be set" Maybe they really like driving your car around. 
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Jan 17, 2009 02:28
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Raganti posted:Maybe they really like driving your car around.  well, finally got it back and shifting feels a lot better so I'll count this as worth the wait. the service guy tried to coach me on the survey form I'll be getting form Saab though. He showed me what it would look like and was like... it doesn't matter how you answer these other questions, but these ones here effect my pay so if you could answer those "completely satisfied"... uhh.
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Jan 17, 2009 02:37
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MMD3 posted:
They did that to me when I bought my WRX. There is specifically a question asking you if you were coached on the answers. If you don't like them, answer honestly and then say that they did try to coach you on the answers, and then never take your car back there again.
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Jan 17, 2009 07:02
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well I had a fun day today:  although I could have sworn I took more pictures. Too bad I spent most of the day doing other poo poo and digging around for missing stuff.
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Jan 17, 2009 10:51
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Can someone tell me about cheapo ebay downpipes? I really want a new one, but really dont want to spend $500. Theres tons of downpipes on ebay in the 100-150 range, which is much better. Same thing with headers, too. I realize they may not be made as well as the name brands, but I can deal with that for that big a price difference. Will I hate myself if I get this http://tinyurl.com/a6yh33 and this http://tinyurl.com/8cdqtg ? Oh, this is going on my 2004 Forester XT 
hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jan 18, 2009 |
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Jan 18, 2009 02:15
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jamal posted:well I had a fun day today: YES. I love the look of the semi-closed deck and the forged sleeves. ChunksNensja posted:It took 3 days to swap a transmission that can be done in well under 2 hours. Nothing is outside of the realm of possibilities. The billable hours would be 7-8 hours for a class B technician, so I could see 2 days. They probably had no idea if it was a good swap, so they took another to check it out. Dumb, but for a tech that only sees tranverse engines and probably doesn't do much AWD work, maybe reasonable like you said. Fortunately it's all free to you! Turbo Car fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Jan 18, 2009 |
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Jan 18, 2009 02:36
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hedgegnome posted:Can someone tell me about cheapo ebay downpipes? I really want a new one, but really dont want to spend $500. Theres tons of downpipes on ebay in the 100-150 range, which is much better. Same thing with headers, too. I realize they may not be made as well as the name brands, but I can deal with that for that big a price difference. Those headers will probably crack at the welds in no time short, and probably be more of a pain in the rear end than they're worth (even a lot of name brand headers have cracking issues). Don't know if DPs have common failure points, but I could see fitment problems. Might want to check over at NASIOC and search to see if anyone has had luck with eBay downpipes and/or headers, and see what the experiences have been.
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Jan 18, 2009 02:48
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to make the e-bay "bellmouth" downpipes, they take a piece of pipe and hammer it out to fit the exhaust flange. This is a pretty crappy way to do it and they will crack eventually. A good downpipe, on the other hand, has a cast bellmouth that tapers to the rest of the downpipe. Invidia and Cobb are both like this. I would highly recommend getting one of those two, depending on the rest of your exhaust. The invidia has a 3" flat flange while the cobb tapers to the stock donut gasket. They are also both available in catted or catless. You can get a brand new invidia catless downpipe for like $230 on ebay, which is about cost. Headers, well, they'll pretty much all crack eventually, but some are better than others. We've had really good results with gt-spec, which are identical to tomei and mad-dad and probably a few others. The equal length headers also produce noticeable gains over un-equal length. A gt-spec header and up-pipe combo retails for about $650 so if you shop around you can get it for less than that. Or you could spend $3k on full-race parts. I put some on a build I did awhile back and there's a car in the shop with a set. Oh my loving god they are amazing. jamal fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Jan 18, 2009 |
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Jan 18, 2009 11:04
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I ran into a problem last night and was wondering if anybody here could lend me some advice. I am trying to remove a damaged rear passenger axle. I got the nut off the control arm bolt, which passes all the way through both arms, and attempted to push the bolt through. However, the bolt appears to be completely fused with the control arm bushing and therefore the entire arm moves. I have tried prying it apart but all I have accomplished is ruining the bushing. When I put a socket on it the entire bushing moves within the control arm.  
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Jan 18, 2009 17:38
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FalconGuy016 posted:I ran into a problem last night and was wondering if anybody here could lend me some advice. I am trying to remove a damaged rear passenger axle. I got the nut off the control arm bolt, which passes all the way through both arms, and attempted to push the bolt through. However, the bolt appears to be completely fused with the control arm bushing and therefore the entire arm moves. I have tried prying it apart but all I have accomplished is ruining the bushing. When I put a socket on it the entire bushing moves within the control arm.
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Jan 18, 2009 17:49
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You could try wrapping some wire around both control arms, or use a big c-clamp or something. That way when you hammer on the bolt the other control arm shouldn't be able to move with it and you might be able to knock it loose.
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Jan 18, 2009 17:59
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jamal posted:helpful advice So ok, I found a cobb dp going for cheap right now, im going to try for that. If not ill check invidia. The only mod i have now is an accessport, so that will go well together. For the exhaust, I want to keep the stock axelback to keep the noise down. Everything Ive read says louder exhausts get boomy cause of the extra cabin space. Also cops around here are dicks about modded exhausts. I may go with a stock sti axelback if I can find one locally, though. Id still like a good sport sound, just nothing LOUD. What would be a good budget choice for the rest? As for the headers, even if the cheapo ones crack, i could have a shop weld it back up right? I had a gti pipe crack on me, and the shop i use fixed it for 20 bucks. I keep reading nasioc, but there are SO many choices its nuts. Plus having a forester and not a wrx/sti complicates things, but I know its still mostly the same. And god, I love my forester  Since Im here, guess Ill ask about suspension. I want it lower, but dont want to panic if I see a pothole or brick road. Im looking at these http://tinyurl.com/86q6us since I hear good things about them. For the same price I could get a used suspension off a wrx, though. Or an sti, too, but Im afraid thats going to be too low. I also want to install this myself. Springs would be easier, but Im willing to try a full suspension swap. Never done one before, though and im not sure it wont be more than I should try. Any advice?
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Jan 18, 2009 18:13
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I've never worked on a Subaru before, but you might have good results pounding on that bolt in the opposite direction you are trying to get it moving. This'll help to break any corrosion holding it in place. If you have room to swing a big hammer, just pound on that fucker from the left in your diagram for a bit.
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Jan 18, 2009 19:59
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I have a 2004 Subaru Outback (2.5l engine). I've noticed that on startup, most of the time, you can hear a belt squeaking. When it first happened about 6 months ago, my friend's guess was the serpentine belt. With 60k miles, I figured maybe it was due. So I brought it to the dealership, and they said it wasn't squeaking anymore and the belt seems fine, so not to worry about it. It's been doing it more lately, maybe with the cold weather and whatnot. One of my mechanic friends looked at it and he first said it just needed to be tightened around where the alternator is. Then he looked under the hood and started flipping out saying that the harmonic balancer was loose. I turned off the car and looked at the harmonic balancer, and he pushed it a bit and it had a bit of give and said "That should not move". Anyways, being out of my warranty since it has over 60k miles, I was just wondering if he could be right or not. He's been wrong before about some things, and I have an appointment scheduled with the dealership on Wednesday, but I'm just trying to get a feel for how much this could rape me in terms of cost. It looks like some harmonic balancers are about $100, but I have no idea if this needs replaced or what labor or anything. If anyone can give me a bit of knowledge on this subject, I'd appreciate it. I'm lost when it comes to cars.
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Jan 18, 2009 20:11
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FlyingPotato posted:I've never worked on a Subaru before, but you might have good results pounding on that bolt in the opposite direction you are trying to get it moving. This'll help to break any corrosion holding it in place. I did try this, over and over.
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Jan 18, 2009 20:17
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Got home two hours ago from over six hours of ridiculous driving through snowstorms here in Ontario. The first three hours on the twisty back roads felt like I was in a never ending rally stage. God I love this car so much in the snow.
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Jan 19, 2009 04:24
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pissboy has banned me from posting pictures of my car dirty, but I also took the long way to get from my parking spot to another parking spot. It vaguely involved going out into the nearby office park, and down through some of the retail plazas (which were dead). All in all, it took about an hour to move from one parking spot to another.
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Jan 19, 2009 05:13
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Some hoonage  It's surprisingly harder to do donuts with new snow tires on, there's a shitload of traction.
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Jan 19, 2009 16:24
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First snow of the year here in Southern NJ. I went out to play. I love my Rally Armors and all of this new power is fun.
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Jan 19, 2009 19:18
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My Black Son posted:First snow of the year here in Southern NJ. I went out to play. sup 240... I haven't had enough time with my new car to figure out if I like cookies in AWD as much as cookies in RWD yet.
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Jan 19, 2009 19:56
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MMD3 posted:sup 240... I haven't had enough time with my new car to figure out if I like cookies in AWD as much as cookies in RWD yet. Try it on dry pavement with AWD. You need a lot more power than RWD for sure, but once you get going it's insane. The first time I did and when it snapped into the fast tight spiral I pulled a tripod and thought I flipped my car.
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Jan 19, 2009 20:15
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New car, new problems... My 01 STI is only boosting 8.5 pounds, far less than it should be stock. No CEL and aside from the lack of power (first turbo car, I really didn't notice!) it drives fine, any ideas or quick fixes that might work before it goes in to the dealer to get them to check it out? Sorry I haven't posted the pics yet!
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Jan 20, 2009 02:23
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