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Nosbearatu posted:make sure mud hasn't caked up on one of the wheels in a weird way
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Jan 15, 2009 06:13
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So my XJ was written off by the insurance company. I'll be shopping for a new one tomarrow. Can anyone tell me why slip yoke eliminators/driveshafts are moer expensive for the np242 transfer case ? Seems like most of the newer jeeps have selec-trac/np242's under them. The Slip yoke elim kits cost extra for the np242. Is this a bad transfer case ?
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Jan 17, 2009 10:26
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So I picked up a 98 Cherokee XJ with 86,000 miles, bone stock except a deck and bfg all terrains. It's really clean, and will be a good start for my new project. RE 5.5" Long arm lift 33x12.5's Bushwacker flares cargo rack up top lightforce floodlights aussie lockers yay !
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Jan 18, 2009 02:33
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jonathan posted:Can anyone tell me why slip yoke eliminators/driveshafts are moer expensive for the np242 transfer case ? Seems like most of the newer jeeps have selec-trac/np242's under them. The Slip yoke elim kits cost extra for the np242. Is this a bad transfer case ? A lot of the places I have seen online include a ~$400 core charge with their NP242 SYE kits for the main shaft. So once you get your kit installed and send them your stock main shaft back (and in some cases the tail housing), you get $400 refunded. In the end, it comes to about the same cost as a NP231 kit.
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Jan 18, 2009 03:51
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My pops is about to sell off his mustang, old chevy 4x4 and his old cadillac and look for a good deal on an 08 JK Rubicon Unlimited. anyone know if you're forced to run a 16" or larger wheel, or will a 15" fit ? He has some nice brand new 33x12.5" mud terrains for 15" wheels that he would like to put on. I've seen vids on youtube of JK's with 15" wheels, but I don't know if they did a rotor/caliper swap or something to fit them. Also, can anyone describe the mechanical principle behing remote swaybar disconnects ? I'm failing to envision a sturdy reliable mechanism to achieve this.
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Jan 18, 2009 11:15
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jonathan posted:Also, can anyone describe the mechanical principle behing remote swaybar disconnects ? I'm failing to envision a sturdy reliable mechanism to achieve this. I've seen someone make a very neat manual one using a manual locking front hub on one end of the bar. Googling has shown that Skyjacker do this for their Rock Lock anti-roll bar.
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Jan 18, 2009 14:57
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jonathan posted:My pops is about to sell off his mustang, old chevy 4x4 and his old cadillac and look for a good deal on an 08 JK Rubicon Unlimited. anyone know if you're forced to run a 16" or larger wheel, or will a 15" fit ? He can try the 15s he has to see if they work, but there's no hard rule to what will and won't fit. 16" and up you're pretty much good.
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Jan 18, 2009 18:14
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I finally got around to figuring out why my 4WD wasn't working on my '87 Cherokee. (NP231 and a D-30 front) I checked all the vacuum lines at the transfer case and at the shift fork linkage on top of the diaphragm. There was good suction in 2WD and 4WD but no fork engagement, which tells me that the diaphragm is shot or the shift motor isn't working. To be on the safe side, I re-did the vacuum lines and the suction was still the same, but still no engagement. I pulled the shift fork motor off to see if it would work but gear oil started leaking everywhere and I didn't have enough time to fiddle around with that, so I'm going to tackle that on Tuesday night, weather permitting. Does the shift motor and the diaphragm have to be replace together? It looks like a married unit from the looks of it. Also, is there a way I can permanently engage the hubs by moving the lever over manually? I would imagine that'd cause some driveline drag, but I can't imagine it'd hurt anything. The old beast only sees a few thousand miles a year anyway.
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Jan 18, 2009 21:34
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grzydj posted:Also, is there a way I can permanently engage the hubs by moving the lever over manually? I would imagine that'd cause some driveline drag, but I can't imagine it'd hurt anything. The old beast only sees a few thousand miles a year anyway.
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Jan 18, 2009 21:42
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InitialDave posted:http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html Holy poo poo. That's bloody brilliant. I'd love to bypass all this wonky vacuum bullshit and be done with it. I'll give them a call on Monday and figure out which kit I should go with. The $200 kit costs half as much as the truck did. 
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Jan 18, 2009 21:49
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grzydj posted:Holy poo poo. That's bloody brilliant. I'd love to bypass all this wonky vacuum bullshit and be done with it. I'll give them a call on Monday and figure out which kit I should go with. IMO it's totally worth every penny on a d30. I had one on my YJ and it was awesome and easy to install. If you're thinking of a lift I'd say go ahead and get the longer cable version.
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Jan 18, 2009 22:49
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Or just slide the collar over and use a hoseclamp to keep it in place. Figure since 90 or so that all the XJs were solid axle with no disconnect anyway. Did it to my '84 just fine. 
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Jan 19, 2009 02:36
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Well, tomorrow I may join the Jeep crowd. I'm looking to trade my 99 dodge ram in on a 2001 Grand Cherokee Limited. 122k miles, Fully loaded. 4.7, quadra-drive (with teh veri-lock axles), Infinity gold, Skid group, tow group, and more. I'm really excited, and already looking at speccing out small ifts and such. Hopefully the dealer will eb willing to work with me, as my truck is worth more than the jeep. Straight trade, or with minimal cash out of pocket. Really more excited than I should be, but having a vehicle that actually has warm heat, heated seats, more than 11mpg.
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Jan 19, 2009 05:01
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Flyboy925 posted:
What engine? If it's the V8, I barely got that in my old grand cherokee.
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Jan 19, 2009 17:07
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I just drove 90 miles in my XJ and used just under a half tank. If it weren't so drat comfy (And if my Civic didn't have a flat tire) it would be a driveway queen.
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Jan 19, 2009 18:09
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Are the later years OBDII ? I wonder if tuners are available with a more efficient engine program. Don't really NEED 195 horsepower all the time.
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Jan 19, 2009 21:16
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its a 4.7 v8. Supposed to be rated for 16/20 city/highway. But I get 11 in my truck right now.
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Jan 19, 2009 21:59
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jonathan posted:Are the later years OBDII ? I wonder if tuners are available with a more efficient engine program. Don't really NEED 195 horsepower all the time. Yes, just like anything else, OBDII after '96. And it's a good thing, too, because I get a CEL CONSTANTLY, and hate having to jump pins to reset it.
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Jan 20, 2009 01:02
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Slack3r posted:Or just slide the collar over and use a hoseclamp to keep it in place. Figure since 90 or so that all the XJs were solid axle with no disconnect anyway. Did it to my '84 just fine. I was hoping there was a more ghetto way of doing it. Do you know if there are any instructions with pictures on how to do it? I can't seem to find anything on Pirate4x4.com
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Jan 20, 2009 02:27
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What would be a reasonable price to pay for an 07/08 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara, 4WD, 4 door manual? I've looked at edmunds.com, kbb.com and nadaguides.com and found some dealerships in the local area online who list prices and they range anywhere from around $21k-$25k. That was for a 2007. I have no idea what I could reasonably talk a dealer down to, either. Any advice is appreciated.
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Jan 20, 2009 16:13
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After an incident involving my '03 Wrangler X, a poorly secured cap on a bottle of laundry detergent and a sudden swerve, I'm seriously considering ripping out all the carpet in my Wrangler and Rhino-lining the interior. Anyone else done this? Would you recommend it? What kind of costs am I looking at, and is there anything I should be concerned about when shopping the job around? Pros/cons in your experience? Thanks!
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Jan 20, 2009 21:55
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I Herculined my YJ six years ago and still love it. It took a solid weekend to do. It's started to ware thin on the corners of the wheel wells, but that's it. It's nice to not have to worry that much about leaving the top down in the rain, although the TJ may be different. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was minimal as long as you do it yourself. I think it took me two days. That stuff sure is fun to wash (re: sand) off your hands.
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Jan 20, 2009 22:06
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Also, it was fun moving the car from outside back into the garage with it looking like this:
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Jan 20, 2009 22:07
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ManicJason posted:I Herculined my YJ six years ago and still love it. It took a solid weekend to do. It's started to ware thin on the corners of the wheel wells, but that's it. It's nice to not have to worry that much about leaving the top down in the rain, although the TJ may be different. To be honest, I wasn't thinking of doing it myself, mostly because of complete and total lack of facilities (living in a student apartment, no steady parking or indoor workspace) and complete and total lack of knowledge! If I were able to acquire the use of a garage, what type of equipment/materials/expertise would be required? For a complete novice like me, are the savings worth the hassle/potential for gently caress-it-upness?
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Jan 20, 2009 23:28
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I had no idea what I was doing either. Nothing was difficult at all beyond just being very time-consuming. If I remember correctly, it just required removing the interior, a very thorough cleaning, scraping up all the surfaces with steel wool, coating it with xylene to thin the paint, taping the edges/filling any mounting holes with wads of tape to protect them, then rolling on the Herculiner (the cleaning/xylene/herculiner steps requiring many hours each to soak/dry). It is quite possible that stripping out the interior of a TJ would be much more difficult. Someone else will have to answer that. I'd guess the labor could get pretty expensive. If you're using someone else's garage, you're going to need to be very careful not to spill any Herculiner on the floor. Like I said with getting it on your hands in my other post, that stuff is an absolute bitch to clean up.
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Jan 20, 2009 23:56
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With herculiner, prep is the key. I did one day prep one day application then the next day put seats back in. I dunno what I'm gonna do with my LJ, I might herculiner it, I may just leave it alone........for now.
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Jan 21, 2009 00:45
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Triple E posted:After an incident involving my '03 Wrangler X, a poorly secured cap on a bottle of laundry detergent and a sudden swerve, I'm seriously considering ripping out all the carpet in my Wrangler and Rhino-lining the interior. Anyone else done this? Would you recommend it? What kind of costs am I looking at, and is there anything I should be concerned about when shopping the job around? Pros/cons in your experience? I had it professionally done and was debating Line-X vs Rhino. Line-X won out for me because it goes on thinner and the lifetime warranty is honored at any Line-X shop - Rhino's is just at the shop you had it done in. Also, this shop did all the Jeeps in my city's water utility fleet (Louisville, KY), so they knew what they were doing. I had my 04 TJ Unlimited done in spring of 06 for 650 - regular TJs were like $100 cheaper. I took everything off except the driver's seat to save labor costs. Absolutely love it and highly recommend it. Get dirt in it? Who gives a poo poo, hose it out. Raining and you just have a safari top? Who gives a poo poo. Edit: two years ago, not last year. let it mellow fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jan 22, 2009 |
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Jan 22, 2009 04:08
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How normal is a minor clunk when going from reverse to drive with the brakes on in a 98 XJ ? I havent gotten underneith to check how much play is in the ring/pinion, but for now I'm going to assume that it is either normal or I have one or more shot u-joints. Also, when going over a speedbump crooked, or doing anything that makes the body want to teeter-totter side to side, I get a bit of a knock from the front suspension or steering. Anyone want to take a guess ? I'm thinking swaybar bushings, or perhaps a worn control arm bushing.
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Jan 22, 2009 13:40
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jonathan posted:How normal is a minor clunk when going from reverse to drive with the brakes on in a 98 XJ ? poo poo my 96 Cherokee does this literally every single time, and has since I bought it in September. I know gently caress all about Jeeps and assumed this was normal...
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Jan 22, 2009 14:23
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jonathan posted:How normal is a minor clunk when going from reverse to drive with the brakes on in a 98 XJ ? FSJ, XJ, ZJ, WJ... if it's not a Wrangler, it probably does it. And if it's a Wrangler, it might. There are actually troubleshooting procedures for it in the FSM, but it generally seems to be harmless. If you took it to a mechanic, anyone who works on Jeeps with any frequency would want an actual problem before being concerned about it. And I second the swaybar bushings. Control arm bushings are worth checking while your head's under there, but the swaybar bushings are basically completely unprotected from the elements. I'll even put it on the line and guess it's the bushings on the upright where the link bolts into the swaybar.
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Jan 22, 2009 18:39
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jackyl posted:I had it professionally done and was debating Line-X vs Rhino. Line-X won out for me because it goes on thinner and the lifetime warranty is honored at any Line-X shop - Rhino's is just at the shop you had it done in. Also, this shop did all the Jeeps in my city's water utility fleet (Louisville, KY), so they knew what they were doing. Nice. I'm definitly going to go through with this. Now to find a place to do it...
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Jan 22, 2009 21:53
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Triple E posted:Nice. I'm definitly going to go through with this. Now to find a place to do it... Just make sure to strip everything out except your seat - it will save you a bunch!
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Jan 22, 2009 22:14
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jonathan posted:How normal is a minor clunk when going from reverse to drive with the brakes on in a 98 XJ ? Honestly this is "normal" for just about every auto truck I've ever driven, but it's certainly worth checking out U-joints and pinion. quote:Also, when going over a speedbump crooked, or doing anything that makes the body want to teeter-totter side to side, I get a bit of a knock from the front suspension or steering. Anyone want to take a guess ? I'm thinking swaybar bushings, or perhaps a worn control arm bushing. When I purchased my TJ it had a loose bolt on the rear track bar that caused a nasty clunk in the same situations. I took the entire track bar out and found the axle-side bolt was also slightly corroded inside of the bushing sleeve eye. I reassembled both ends with anti-seize coating on both bolts, and some blue loctite to keep them from backing out again. Quiet and smooth ever since. The XJ/TJ front ends really like to rattle themselves loose and the very least you should do is torque all bolts to spec. The track bars are often the first to get loose.
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Jan 23, 2009 00:48
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incredibull posted:Honestly this is "normal" for just about every auto truck I've ever driven, but it's certainly worth checking out U-joints and pinion. I was doing some reading and it sounds like it could also be the bar pin shock mounts. There is a conversion kit for cheap that turns them into a normal bolt style mount, as the bar-pin style doesn't allow you to tighten the shock to the axle, it just slides on and is held in place but will wiggle around.
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Jan 23, 2009 01:33
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So my 2004 WJ grand cherokee makes a sound like something is dragging on the ground when I go over bumps, it is really loud, the oil change monkeys at firestone told me it was the shocks and or sway bar mounts. They are jeep guys whatever that means, so they seemed like they knew what they were talking about, and said this was a common issue. What do I need to do to fix this. Remember I am a jeep moron when answering. Thanks. I am planning new shocks and end links, but the post before me mentions some conversion kit for the shocks?
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Jan 23, 2009 16:07
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Elephanthead posted:
Probably not your issue, and this is for a Cherokee XJ (classic) not grand cherokee. Not sure if the Grand Cherokee uses bar pins or normal shock mounts. http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=257940
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Jan 24, 2009 10:27
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The heat saga continues, replaced the radiator, upper and lower hoses, flushed and back flushed the heater core. Results, a little more heat and more of the zin garden waterfall sound comming from the dash on startup and the first few seconds above 2k rpm from the heater core filling up. I think my heater core is hosed and leaking, but I still need to replace my radiator cap and rusted through thermostat houseing. I also found out why the PO said the HVAC was stuck on heat all the time, the motor that controls the blend door was snapped off and may end up with a getto handle attached to it instead of replacing the motor.
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Jan 24, 2009 13:04
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Elephanthead posted:So my 2004 WJ grand cherokee makes a sound like something is dragging on the ground when I go over bumps, it is really loud, the oil change monkeys at firestone told me it was the shocks and or sway bar mounts. They are jeep guys whatever that means, so they seemed like they knew what they were talking about, and said this was a common issue. What do I need to do to fix this. Remember I am a jeep moron when answering. Thanks. I am planning new shocks and end links, but the post before me mentions some conversion kit for the shocks? The conversion for the shocks only applies to your lower front shock mounts. Here is a set of bar pin eleminators, if you read the description it will explain what they do a little bit. http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/jksbpes.html
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Jan 24, 2009 14:47
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Thanks, I also think the front sway bar bushings to the frame on the 2004 are garbage, I ordered replacements.
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Jan 24, 2009 20:48
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grzydj posted:Holy poo poo. That's bloody brilliant. I'd love to bypass all this wonky vacuum bullshit and be done with it. I'll give them a call on Monday and figure out which kit I should go with. I only have 2 vacuum lines on my 2.5l 1 for vacuum advance, 1 for Brake Slave
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Jan 25, 2009 03:14
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