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It will vibrate like crazy. Hell it will vibrate like crazy if you take anything more than light cuts on brass.
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Jan 15, 2009 03:31
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RealKyleH posted:It will vibrate like crazy. Hell it will vibrate like crazy if you take anything more than light cuts on brass. How about the lathe? Same story?
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Jan 15, 2009 04:26
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I welded up a mini branding iron. Here is the result:
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Jan 15, 2009 07:01
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Nice one Jovial. I guess I need to make a crowbar and paint it red to go with it 
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Jan 15, 2009 07:52
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Slung Blade posted:How about the lathe? Same story? Depends which lathe. The little 8x12 is only 3/4HP and 254lbs. Theres just not much you can do with a lathe that size. Now with a lathe you can go .01 DOC at a time at .002 feed per rev and yea even SS will come off (properly ground or properly selected carbide will help although HSS is probably better for that application.) EDIT: Consider that I bought my used 13x40 for $500 and have it basically tooled for around $1000 if you don't include the rotary converter. I can take off .060 DOC @ .004/rev per pass on SS with no hint of it slowing down, could probably go faster but my setup wasn't the best. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Jan 15, 2009 |
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Jan 15, 2009 11:22
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I've seen the occasional "Atlas" brand lathe come available on local used-stuff-for-sale websites. My neighbour's a professional mechanic and he uses one, and swears by it. Have you ever used that type RKH? Would you recommend them?
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Jan 15, 2009 19:49
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The bigger atlases can be cappable machines. the smaller ones, like the 103 and 106 are almost comically flexable and weak. :-/ I almost bought one.
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Jan 15, 2009 19:58
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Slung Blade posted:I've seen the occasional "Atlas" brand lathe come available on local used-stuff-for-sale websites. My neighbour's a professional mechanic and he uses one, and swears by it. I haven't used one personally but depending on what model you're talking about I could give you some basic tips on buying them. A friend has two 12x36(I think) craftsmans which I believe are atlas lathe. They serve what he wants to do fine. Thanks to china its pretty easy to even take an older southbend or atlas type and give it some of the more modern features you'd want.
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Jan 15, 2009 20:11
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I'd love to hear about them but I can't get one right now. My shop is open-air, so I need to build some kind of shelter before I can start thinking about buying one.
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Jan 15, 2009 21:17
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Someone local has an Atlas DM-59 for a grand. Seems a bit steep but lathes are just expensive, I guess. I'm curious as to what I should look for, because I too would like a small lathe to turn some cold steel or stainless. Is there any place that makes reasonably-priced leadscrews? I would love to use some to make a CNC hot wire cutter, so not much force/accuracy needed, but they all seem to be pretty expensive.
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Jan 17, 2009 02:46
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For anyone (Zquargon) looking for an anvil, Old World Anvils has an awesome starter unit. http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/4x4.html It's a 4x4 cube of 4140 steel, 2 sides are flat, the other 4 keep their slightly rounded corners.   Only 85 bucks, and free shipping. This thing would be perfect to get started with and would remain useful if you were to buy another anvil sometime in the future. Hell, I might order one just to have it around. Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Jan 17, 2009 |
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Jan 17, 2009 09:03
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For a leadscrew, is something like this useful or would it be more trouble than it's worth?
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Jan 17, 2009 09:52
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especially for something like a hot foam cutter. Just plain threaded rod will suffice. Threaded rod isn't all that accurate, but neither is a droopy, hot wire, nor is the foam. :-)
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Jan 17, 2009 21:21
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Posted in the Tools! thread but cross posting here: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=17742722&PMT4NO=0 ER32 Collet chuck: $123 http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=17742678&PMT4NO=0 ER32 Collet Set: $357 Price on ebay for both from an American seller but made in china? $122 shipped. Got them both today and will be ordering some more collet chucks. I freaking love buying tooling on ebay. gently caress ever using a drill chuck or hand making a tap holder to power tap poo poo. Collets rule and since I am not even milling with them (although I have heard they're good enough that I could provided I am not running RPMs that require balancing) I really don't have poo poo to worry about. Also should be here next week: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200094179608 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200296096557 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200296512600 Total: $50.73 Price at MSC: $27 + $71 (For smaller but comparable boring bar) + $345 (69 * 5pcs) Total: $443 I am seriously about to go broke from all the good deals I've been getting. Not even joking here though you need so much poo poo you dont immediately think about just for simple lathe jobs. Just trying to tap and thread a few hundred steel aprts is going to cost me big $$.
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Jan 17, 2009 22:07
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Slung Blade posted:For anyone (Zquargon) looking for an anvil, Old World Anvils has an awesome starter unit. You sir... you are a godsend. I just finished putting together all the parts for my forge today (forgot my camera, so no pics of the process... I'll get pics later though of the finished deal.) and I am itching to get my hands on something decent that I can bang on. This is a whole lot cheaper than anything else I was looking at, because I really really didn't want to resort to banging on a sheet strapped to a stump. Edit: apparently my chisels showed up at my mom's house yesterday, so I am almost ready to get started, woo! Zquargon fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Jan 19, 2009 |
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Jan 18, 2009 07:07
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Zquargon posted:You sir... you are a godsend. I just finished putting together all the parts for my forge today (forgot my camera, so no pics of the process... I'll get pics later though of the finished deal.) and I am itching to get my hands on something decent that I can bang on. This is a whole lot cheaper than anything else I was looking at, because I really really didn't want to resort to banging on a sheet strapped to a stump. My pleasure dude, always happy to help.  The anvil will rebound most of the energy you put into it, but because it's rather light it will tend to slide around unless you have something to hold it in place. I would suggest you use that stump you were talking about earlier, and take some 3/8th rod and bend up something that you can drive into the stump and will keep the anvil from sliding around. Since it's a cube, it should be easy to make something that will hold it when you're using the round or the flat sides without much difficulty. Four U-shaped staples, one for each corner, will probably work fine.
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Jan 18, 2009 09:20
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Speaking of anvils, there's a craigslist for a "325 lb Armstrong" anvil that has popped up. Any idea what a ballpark fair price would be for it? And what should I be looking for in an anvil? I think someone said wrought iron anvils suck, but I could be mistaken. How would I tell if it's wrought? edit: It's a 3-piece anvil. Dude said it's worth $1500, but that he doesn't expect to get that. Maybe it is, but it's sure out of my price-range. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jan 18, 2009 |
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Jan 18, 2009 21:13
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What does he mean 3 piece anvil? Is it 3 separate objects? As for an opinion on wrought anvils, you need to know the different ways to make an anvil before you can decide what works for you: Cast iron anvils are completely worthless for any kind of forging. Single piece forged anvils, where the whole anvil has been formed out of decent quality steel in an industrial press or gently caress-off huge air or steam hammer. These are almost always great anvils. If a factory is going to the trouble to tool up for forging something as large as an anvil, they do it right, or not at all, it's too expensive to half rear end. Forged and welded anvils, which I suspect this armstrong anvil is, are forged wrought iron bodies with a plate of tool steel forge welded onto the top. No one has made these in decades, but for several centuries this is pretty much how all anvils were made. If it's in good shape, it would be a good candidate. Problems to look out for include de-lamination of the striking face, cracks in the body, big chips knocked out anywhere, and broken horns. Like I said, you don't see many of these, they're usually in museums or in such poor shape that they're useless for forging. Wrought iron itself is a material that hasn't been produced in great quantity (outside of people smelting iron ore in their backyards) since probably the 19th century or earlier. It's usually full of silicon fibers, and from everything I've read, it's great for forging, but it's pretty inconsistent in its properties due to the way it was smelted and the impurities it contains. Cast steel anvils, this is what I have, not quite as hard as purely forged steel anvils, but with modern casting technology and metallurgy they can be 95-99% as good as a forged anvil. Also the steel quality and hardness is consistent throughout the entire anvil. Basically a homogeneous lump. Now, for a brand-new, manufactured-within-the-last-5-years anvil, you have a few options. Brand new euroanvils go for 1300 dollars per 500 pound unit, but they're kinda roughly finished on the horn. I've heard good things about them though. They also have 260 pound german style anvils for about 800 bucks. http://euroanvils.net/prices.php Blacksmith's depot has a huge selection of brands and styles. Their Delta line goes for $1450 for a 300 pound anvil. http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/ Old world anvils has another good set to choose from. http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/index.html Nimba also has a 260 pound anvil for $1650. http://www.nimbaanvils.com/pricing.php Basically, no, I would not pay 1500 for a used 350 pound anvil unless it was in absolutely awesome shape. But keep in mind, with all the prices from those websites above you'll have to pay at least a couple hundred dollars to ship it to you. Ask if he'll send you some pictures of it taken from all sides. I wouldn't want to give advise on its value without seeing it first. If you go take a look at it, make sure it has a ring to it when you test strike it, if it clunks or thuds, there's a crack in it somewhere or it's not made of steel. Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jan 19, 2009 |
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Jan 19, 2009 00:24
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Hey RKH, is this a good deal? http://calgary.en.craigslist.ca/tls/959581678.html Keep in mind this is Canadian dollars.
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Jan 19, 2009 00:39
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What do you plan on making with it? 1/3HP is nothing and 6" is a really small swing. Even converted to Canadian you can pick up this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45861 brand new for cheaper. Also I dont see a threading gear box on that lathe which would be an instant absolutely not for me. Lastly no, I would not consider that a very good deal at all. The reason I shy away from small lathes like that is you can easily get a lathe that's too small and too slow, but when you're talking about a home shop lathe bigger is generally better. Also when you get something thats more like whats used in industry you open yourself up to a wider variety of tooling and setup options. EDIT: The way to find a good deal on lathes is to setup RSS feeds for ebay and craigslist and whatever else canada has that does a local search for lathes in your area. When a good deal comes along, jump on it. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jan 19, 2009 |
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Jan 19, 2009 01:04
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I think atlases have threading gears, but I'm not sure. Either way, that's cool, thanks man. That harbour freight one looks pretty good, I wonder if they ship to canada.
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Jan 19, 2009 02:12
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Oh look at that, craigslist just popped out an ad for a 200lb(ish) Wilkinson anvil not too far from me and he only wants 400 for it... Anyone hear anything bad about them? Google tells me that they seem to have been ok anvils, with a tendancy to have the heel break off, but the pictures look good to me.
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Jan 19, 2009 05:12
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Zquargon posted:Oh look at that, craigslist just popped out an ad for a 200lb(ish) Wilkinson anvil not too far from me and he only wants 400 for it... Anyone hear anything bad about them? Google tells me that they seem to have been ok anvils, with a tendancy to have the heel break off, but the pictures look good to me. Sounds like a pretty good deal. Can you provide a link to the ad or re-host the pictures so I can see it?
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Jan 19, 2009 07:03
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http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/991939818.html There's the ad
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Jan 19, 2009 18:52
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Zquargon posted:http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/991939818.html Hmm, it looks ok from what I can see on the low-res pictures. It's awfully shiny on the face, ask him if he had it polished or if he's had hardfacing welded on to it. Hardfacing is a special type of welding electrode that leaves a very hard surface. It works well when it's done right, but many times it isn't. In order to get proper fusion of hardface and base metal, you have to pre-heat the anvil to quite a high temperature. Done wrong, the hardfacing will crack and could chip off. Think "garage floor without enough rebar in it" style cracking. The good news is, if it has been hardfaced, and done incorrectly, you can just grind off the hardface and get it reapplied. Bad news is, that takes a lot of work and time, and hardfacing (not to mention the expertise needed to apply it) do not come cheap. So go take a look at it, if the face of the anvil looks cracked like a dry lake bed, stay the gently caress away unless you can get it for less than half that price. If the face looks good and there aren't too many chips out of it on the edge, I would say sure, go for it.
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Jan 19, 2009 19:12
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That sucks. apparently he already sold it but forgot to take down the ad. Ah well. Back to hunting I guess.
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Jan 19, 2009 22:27
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This just popped up in my eBay RSS: Its a CNC retrofitted 12x36 Chinese lathe with ballscrews and your standard CNC upgrades. $7,000 is not much for a new and assembled kit, to do the conversion yourself it'd cost $4,300 for the kit + the Lathe ($1900 for the HF special) + any extra items not included but needed. This also comes with a 6jaw bison chuck ($900 or so) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230320792190
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Jan 21, 2009 01:56
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I've never heard of a 6 jaw chuck before. What are they for? same adjustability as a 4 jaw with greater precision/holding power?
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Jan 21, 2009 03:28
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Slung Blade posted:I've never heard of a 6 jaw chuck before. What are they for? same adjustability as a 4 jaw with greater precision/holding power? Pretty much, generally speaking they're independent chucks like your run of the mill 4 jaw. I've heard of like hydraulic 6 jaws but never seen one and I might be making that up, I can never be sure. If you want to get into machining at all I thought my textbook was pretty good: Here is the edition I have: http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Fundamentals-John-R-Walker/dp/1590702492/ref=sr_11_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1232505542&sr=11-1 You can get it for $45 used. It has lots of pictures giving you some idea of what the words are instructing. It doesnt have many details of advanced stuff but will tell you everything you need to know to get started and make basic setups.
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Jan 21, 2009 03:44
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Yeah, I want to get into it eventually. I need space for the machines though 
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Jan 21, 2009 04:00
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I just machined some aluminum in our Sheldon lathe today and used the 6-jaw since it was already on. It is not independently adjustable as far as I know. It works in the same way as a 3-jaw, except you get much more clamping surface; kind of like using soft jaws.
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Jan 21, 2009 06:45
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Chauncey posted:I just machined some aluminum in our Sheldon lathe today and used the 6-jaw since it was already on. It is not independently adjustable as far as I know. It works in the same way as a 3-jaw, except you get much more clamping surface; kind of like using soft jaws. It seems youre right, most are self centering.
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Jan 21, 2009 13:58
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Hey Slung Blade... how happy are you with your Nimba anvil? Would you reccomend it to someone else? I ask because I just filed my taxes, and am getting a considerably larger refund than I anticipated, so I'm goin anvil shopping.
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Jan 22, 2009 07:21
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I love it to death. When I get a proper shop I'm going to get the biggest one they make to be my primary anvil. I only have 2 issues: It's cast as a single piece, so it rings like a loving bell, especially if you strike it on the horn. But really, you should be wearing ear protection anyway, so it shouldn't bother you, just the neighbours. You can dampen it by putting it in a bed of packed sand on top of your stump, so I'm told. A really powerful magnet on the side or underneath are supposed to help too. The face is a little easier to mark than I was expecting. Not really a big deal, all anvils will have dents and dings in them over time. And I was using a 3 pound hammer with fairly sharp corners at the time, so it's my own fault. That said, they are beautiful anvils and I would recommend them to anyone willing to spend the cash in a heartbeat. You will not be disappointed if you get one. (if you have a friend who wants an anvil too, you can order together and save a little bit on the shipping, I got 5% off ordering two of them)
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Jan 22, 2009 08:40
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Slung Blade posted:I love it to death. Sweet, because it seems they are the closest anvil producer to me, so I won't get quite as raped for shipping... how much did you pay for shipping, if you don't mind my asking?
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Jan 22, 2009 16:18
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It's been awhile, I can't remember precisely. But if I remember correctly, the anvil was around 900 dollars, and shipping was like 150 or so. I also had to pay a brokerage fee because I live in Canada. But I seem to remember buying when our dollar was fairly close to parity with the US dollar, so I think the price lines up fairly well. Just send them an email with your zip code, they'll give you an estimated total. Also I hope you're not friends with the local courier companies, because you probably won't be once they deliver this to you. The two I ordered were delivered when I wasn't home, my family said "The UPS guy said he hates you more than anyone else right now." because they had to deliver it off a 5 ton truck with no lift gate, trying to get two 120 pound chunks of steel down from 5 feet high without hurting yourself isn't exactly easy The way they ship the little ones is pretty interesting too. Instead of a crate or anything they put a rope through the hardie and pritchel holes and make a kind of luggage handle. The reason being that nothing can damage these things short of some really huge industrial equipment falling on them. The bigger ones they put on a pallet, so you can forklift them off.
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Jan 22, 2009 17:26
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Yeah, I sent them an email, I was just curious since I havn't heard from them yet. That is about the rate I was prepared for, so hopefully that hasn't changed. And no, thankfully I don't know anyone that delivers. If I did they'd probably try to kill me in my sleep.
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Jan 22, 2009 18:44
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Well, considering you actually live in America it will probably be less than what I paid. I would hope, anyway. Good news from around the internet, anvilfire has put up an ebook covering all things metal on their website. http://www.anvilfire.com/eBooks/Working-In-Metals/ Chick on the "table of content" url and it will take you to the book. I'm glancing at it now, seems pretty interesting.
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Jan 22, 2009 20:57
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Finally got outside and got some work done. First up, I made a really quick and dirty holdfast, which goes in the pritchel and holds down something so you can have 2 hands free. I'm going to draw out the neck on it later, I just wanted to see if I could make one. Zquargon, if you get a Nimba, see if you can find a trailer hitch with a 1" shank on it, fits in the hardie hole really well and is useful for many things (I found this one for 11 dollars).   Notice how the finger isn't perpendicular with the stem that goes in the hole. When you tap the top of the bend, it springs down and the finger goes flat like this:  This is a wallmount for a speed bag my sister bought. Not done yet, few more bends and a couple welds to do yet.  The crossbars will have some holes that I can put screws in to secure it to the wall. The U shape at the top will come out from the wall at 90'. The 2 little bars on the side in the previous picture will be bent and welded to the top of the U and welded to the 3rd flat bar higher on the wall. Hopefully this will be strong enough to absorb repeated high speed impacts.  I've got some plywood I'm going to cut a 2 foot circle out of and mount it to the flat iron across the U so the bag has something to hit.
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Jan 25, 2009 01:09
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I didn't do any metalworking today, but I did buy a welding machine. I sold my Lincoln AC-225 a few weeks ago to a buddy. I picked up a Lincoln Idealarc 250. It is AC/DC, 300 amps AC/250 amps DC, infinite current control, and a higher duty cycle then the AC-225. I picked it up for $400 on craiglist. I googled the image below because I was too lazy to go take a picture of my machine, but mine looks exactly like it. Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Actually I lied, I did do some metal working today. I worked 6 hours of overtime today welding patches inside of a coal car. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jan 25, 2009 |
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Jan 25, 2009 01:52
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