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Has anyone installed an aftermarket stereo in a 9-2x? How hard was it? I installed one in a jeep Grand Cherokee in high school, would it be about the same? I don't want to pay like 100+ for a store to do it but I don't want to mess anything up either
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Jan 20, 2009 02:30
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I'm about to hit 1k in my STI... Subaru doesn't require an oil change, but I've always heard it's best after an engine break in. Anyone have any thoughts?
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Jan 20, 2009 03:35
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nwin posted:Then he looked under the hood and started flipping out saying that the harmonic balancer was loose. I turned off the car and looked at the harmonic balancer, and he pushed it a bit and it had a bit of give and said "That should not move". Once again, I've never worked on a Subaru, but your friend is right... that should NOT move. It could be a loose bolt, or the rubber section might be starting to come apart. If it comes all the way off or starts freewheeling, your water pump, alternator, power steering and air conditioning will all stop working at once. You could potentially overheat and destroy your engine.
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Jan 20, 2009 04:10
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Mat_Drinks posted:I'm about to hit 1k in my STI... Subaru doesn't require an oil change, but I've always heard it's best after an engine break in. I went in for one at 1k on my WRX. The dealer told me to do it because "the oil they put in at the factory is thin." I don't know if I believe him, but Im determined to do all of the recommended maintenance on this car from the start, and really, it couldn't hurt.
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Jan 20, 2009 04:34
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Chalk up another head gasket failure. My wife's '99 Outback has grown fond of overheating rather rapidly. I'm feeling slightly inadequate after deciding to pay someone else to deal with it.
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Jan 20, 2009 04:37
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Chunderbuss posted:New car, new problems... My 01 STI is only boosting 8.5 pounds, far less than it should be stock. No CEL and aside from the lack of power (first turbo car, I really didn't notice!) it drives fine, any ideas or quick fixes that might work before it goes in to the dealer to get them to check it out? check the boost control solenoid on the right strut tower and make sure the lines are going to a T and to the intake. There should be a restrictor pill on the compressor side of the T. You'll be able to see/feel a little bump. Or, the wastegate actuator could have popped off the arm, or the car could have overboosted and gone into limp mode where it only boosts wastegate spring pressure. What mods are on the car?
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Jan 20, 2009 05:08
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I checked out a very nice Saab 9-2x a few days ago, and it was nearly flawless except for the rear end. Every bump I went over, the back end would sort of bounce then wobble side to side, and the interior panels in the back were loose and rattling. It was almost like the struts were bad, at 31k miles. It could also be because the dealer put aftermarket rims with low profile tires. Can anyone tell me if this is even close to the norm with these cars? It almost seems like someone swapped the rear suspension out of a car with 150k miles.
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Jan 20, 2009 05:17
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The car is standard aside from a heavy duty clutch and some pink sti bars at the rear, and the boost gauge I installed yesterday. It didn't feel any slower once I got the gauge on so I don't think I created a leak (the Bov was already tapped, I think the car had a Defi 3 gauge set before it was imported). I think it's all plugged in correctly, I'll check for the pill though, anything else I can do to self diagnose/fix this?
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Jan 20, 2009 05:22
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TurboLuvah posted:Some hoonage I see Dollar Tree, I see Rent-a-center... where's the pawn shop and/or instant cash store to round out the trifecta? (I'm assuming its just outside of the photo range) I don't have pics but I did celebratory donuts at the intersection of my exit. The snowmobiler's gave me thumbs up; the trail runs right down one road.
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Jan 20, 2009 06:40
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Ribsauce posted:Has anyone installed an aftermarket stereo in a 9-2x? How hard was it? I installed one in a jeep Grand Cherokee in high school, would it be about the same? It's straight forward, most car stereo shops will do the install for free though as long as you pay for the wiring harness and any install gear they need to use. I just let them do it at the shop for my first one because I hate figuring out the wiring.
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Jan 20, 2009 06:51
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jamal posted:check the boost control solenoid on the right strut tower and make sure the lines are going to a T and to the intake. There should be a restrictor pill on the compressor side of the T. You'll be able to see/feel a little bump. Or, the wastegate actuator could have popped off the arm, or the car could have overboosted and gone into limp mode where it only boosts wastegate spring pressure. Any disconnections or overboosting would have thrown a CEL. Safemode doesn't always throw a code, so trying disconnecting the batter for 30 seconds and see if you'll boost more (but don't hammer on it). If this solves it, then it comes back, you've probably got nonfunctional boost control solenoid. If not, work down the list that jamal suggested.
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Jan 20, 2009 07:04
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FalconGuy016 posted:I ran into a problem last night and was wondering if anybody here could lend me some advice. I am trying to remove a damaged rear passenger axle. I got the nut off the control arm bolt, which passes all the way through both arms, and attempted to push the bolt through. However, the bolt appears to be completely fused with the control arm bushing and therefore the entire arm moves. I have tried prying it apart but all I have accomplished is ruining the bushing. When I put a socket on it the entire bushing moves within the control arm. The bushing has a metal sleeve the bolt goes through and they rust into one unit. I've never seen one that hasn't been seized. You're either going to have to use a 500ft/lbs 1/2" impact or melt the bushing. Also, don't hit the threaded section of the bolt. You'll mushroom the threads and it'll be useless. I did this on a tie rod once. Was not happy later.
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Jan 20, 2009 07:09
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You can avoid shrooming it if you thread a nut onto the end and pound on that. I also learned that the hard way on a tie rod. I cheated and ground the wrecked area off though 
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Jan 20, 2009 07:30
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New goon with an '07 STi checking in; glad to find a Subaru love fest ready and waiting for me. I envy you guys with snow to play in - the closest I've gotten is frost on my windows in the morning. I've done a few SCCA autocross events, but rally is what it's all about. The one rallycross event that was held in my area was a blast and I managed to make it out of there without any damage. I want to do more rally events (I'm looking into Formula RallyX at the moment) but since it's my daily driver, I'd like to minimize my destruction / downtime. What kind of parts would you guys recommend for sustainability in desert rally events? Speed isn't my concern at the moment - I'm not experienced enough to need more power.
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Jan 20, 2009 08:54
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I'm really just depressed, I haven't even put 2000 miles on my '02 WRX and the Rod bearings are going :| I had the rod deathknock pretty bad about 5 miles from my house one night and had to get her towed home. There's another 2k+ down the drain. :| Had the car checked out before I bought it, but I guess dems da breaks.
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Jan 20, 2009 09:03
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:New goon with an '07 STi checking in; glad to find a Subaru love fest ready and waiting for me. I envy you guys with snow to play in - the closest I've gotten is frost on my windows in the morning. 1) mudflaps 2) other paint protection 3) skidplate 4) rear diff guard Don't focus on go-fast bits for the STi if you're concerned about going fast in rallycross. You'll be fine from a durability standpoint if you're careful (ie. no jumps).
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Jan 20, 2009 09:23
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ub818 posted:I see Dollar Tree, I see Rent-a-center... where's the pawn shop and/or instant cash store to round out the trifecta? (I'm assuming its just outside of the photo range) Don't forget the "CASH 4 GOLD," store as well. And yes there is a pawn shop in that strip mall plaza haha  Gotta love Springfield!"[ELP posted:"] I had a bad feeling about that car when you were posting about it  Sorry duder. Buuuut, look on the bright side, time for a built motor and some forged internals 
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Jan 20, 2009 15:52
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:What kind of parts would you guys recommend for sustainability in desert rally events? Be fastidious about cleaning sand off the car after the event is over. The grit can worm itself into all sorts of places you don't want it to get into, including the interior and trunk.
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Jan 20, 2009 16:43
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Mat_Drinks posted:I'm about to hit 1k in my STI... Subaru doesn't require an oil change, but I've always heard it's best after an engine break in. When I just bought my 08 STI my dealer said to wait the 3.5k miles before bringing it in for its first oil change. They said that there are some additives they put in the oil at the factory that help with break in or something so you should let it run its course.
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Jan 20, 2009 19:35
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TurboLuvah posted:I had a bad feeling about that car when you were posting about it It already WAS a built motor  I should've listened, you all told me not to gently caress with a previously modded car, now instead of spending 2k on additional mods i'll be spending it on building up the lower end. Guess it'll be solid after this though. I am just a bit conflicted between taking it to DBTuned in Sacramento or Gruppe-S since they're both equal distance from me. DBtuned I've gotten to know the owner, it's a smaller shop but he's a reasonable guy and knows the car. Gruppe-S I haven't dealt with before but I know they're a much bigger shop, I don't know if I could end up getting a better deal at one or the other. Any insights would be appreciated and heeded for once :X Bob Log fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Jan 20, 2009 |
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Jan 20, 2009 19:36
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:New goon with an '07 STi checking in; glad to find a Subaru love fest ready and waiting for me. I envy you guys with snow to play in - the closest I've gotten is frost on my windows in the morning. Where are you located? I did a few Formula Rally X rallycross races last year at Glen Helen and ended up taking 2nd place in SS4 for the season. With my new STI I don't plan on doing any rallyx until I can get mudflaps and skidplates on it. Other than that, rallyx isn't too hard on the car, you'll just get it nice and dirty as it was meant to be. Check out https://www.dirtyimpreza.com for more info from people that do everything from rallyx to stage rally, there's lots of good information over there.
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Jan 20, 2009 19:44
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Turbo Car posted:Any disconnections or overboosting would have thrown a CEL. Safemode doesn't always throw a code, so trying disconnecting the batter for 30 seconds and see if you'll boost more (but don't hammer on it). If this solves it, then it comes back, you've probably got nonfunctional boost control solenoid. If the solenoid was gone wouldn't I just keep getting wastegate boost after the restart (because it still wouldn't bleed)? Going to have a closer look at it after lunch, but I'm thinking it's a dead/unplugged solenoid, everything else seems fine.
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Jan 20, 2009 23:34
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Turbo Car posted:1) mudflaps Lazor posted:Where are you located? I did a few Formula Rally X rallycross races last year at Glen Helen and ended up taking 2nd place in SS4 for the season. I guess there are worse places to be stuck. Thanks for the tips!
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Jan 21, 2009 04:40
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I know this is more "WRX" specific but I trust AI more than the Subie forums out there, so here it goes: Would anyone here have any experience with the turbo inlet hoses (2004 WRX)? I was going to grab this Samco knock-off: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-0...sQ5fAccessories It looks like its very high quality for a knock-off. Does anyone have experience with this particular product? Install tips? I know that the stock hose has to be destroyed unless I want to remove the intake manifold, but do all the stock hoses that attach to the inlet hose attach in the same places on this one as well? (If im not mistaken, the APS has you change the hoses a tad.)
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Jan 21, 2009 07:23
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Chunderbuss posted:If the solenoid was gone wouldn't I just keep getting wastegate boost after the restart (because it still wouldn't bleed)? Going to have a closer look at it after lunch, but I'm thinking it's a dead/unplugged solenoid, everything else seems fine. If it's stuck open, no. If it's the solenoid, it's likely severely worn and fails to actuate enough to control boost at 100% wastegate solenoid duty cycles (WGSDCs very technical hurf blurf) Solenoids don't just up and poo poo, they go crazy just enough to lose control of the boost. BannedForLulz posted:I know this is more "WRX" specific but I trust AI more than the Subie forums out there, so here it goes: Samco unit on my car fits all the stock hoses in stock places. Soak the old fittings/tubes with a warm wet rag beforehand to make them more pliable and avoid tears. They get brittle. Do yourself a favor and lift the intake plenum when you're going to put the new hose on. You're more likely than not to tear the new unit ramming it into place if you don't. And clean out the little bits of hanging silicone on the inside of the hose before you install. Your TD04 will not like trying to eat them. Turbo Car fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Jan 21, 2009 |
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Jan 21, 2009 07:51
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We put some suspension an an 08 sti the other day with Robispec. Basically, KW clubsports and most of the whiteline catalog:     Those plates are pretty badass and combined with the motorsport ALK the car has something like 10 degrees of caster. It's nice that subaru finally got around to putting caster in these cars. My Legacy has maybe 4 degrees with an ALK, but the new legacies and imprezas have almost 6 stock. Tonight we put on some robispec swaybars, cusco rear control arms, and gave the car a corner balance and alignment. We're thinking of trying to use the car for street class time attack next season since it already has 390whp and a cosworth long block on the way. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Jan 21, 2009 |
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Jan 21, 2009 08:26
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FlyingPotato posted:Once again, I've never worked on a Subaru, but your friend is right... that should NOT move. It could be a loose bolt, or the rubber section might be starting to come apart. If it comes all the way off or starts freewheeling, your water pump, alternator, power steering and air conditioning will all stop working at once. You could potentially overheat and destroy your engine. Well, you were right. It was the harmonic balancer. They were saying it was worn out. Too bad my car is all of 7000 miles out of warranty and the dealership won't budge about helping with the cost, though they did take off the $90 diagnostic fee since I told them when I came in "I think it's the harmonic balancer". Maybe I just got a bad one, but I haven't had any luck with this car.
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Jan 21, 2009 15:53
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FlyingPotato posted:Once again, I've never worked on a Subaru, but your friend is right... that should NOT move. It could be a loose bolt, or the rubber section might be starting to come apart. If it comes all the way off or starts freewheeling, your water pump, alternator, power steering and air conditioning will all stop working at once. You could potentially overheat and destroy your engine. The Boxer engine runs its water pump from the timing belt so he'd really just lose the accessories. The other neat thing is that the design of the Boxer apparently eliminates the need for a harmonic balancer. The crank pulley on the front of the engine is just that, a crank pulley. One thing to look out for was that the crank bolt would come loose on the 2.2 engines if not properly torqued allowing the pulley to trash the keyway on the crankshaft. Its easy enough to correct if it hasn't gone on too long.
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Jan 21, 2009 19:54
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 A snowplow took out my mirror. It's getting fixed today, but I am out of a car for a few days minimum.
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Jan 21, 2009 20:06
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TeMpLaR posted:A snowplow took out my mirror. It's getting fixed today, but I am out of a car for a few days minimum. That sucks man. This happened to my old car, so now I always fold in the roadside mirror. I was real psyched that my wrx had that tiny little feature, as my old car didn't.
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Jan 21, 2009 20:23
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TeMpLaR posted:
I certainly hope the plow company is paying for it.
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Jan 21, 2009 21:51
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Mat_Drinks posted:I'm about to hit 1k in my STI... Subaru doesn't require an oil change, but I've always heard it's best after an engine break in. I have an 08 STI and I changed the oil at 1k. Then again at 3k and went full synthetic at 6k. It's got 9k miles now and hasn't started consuming any appreciable amount of oil yet. rk fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jan 22, 2009 |
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Jan 22, 2009 00:08
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I've been getting oil changes at the dealer just using their "bulk" oil basic change. If I were to start changing my own oil what is something comparible? Just any 'ol 5W-30 will do?
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Jan 22, 2009 01:25
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TeMpLaR posted:
Maybe this is a silly question but why does it take a few days to replace a mirror? Paint-matching?
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Jan 22, 2009 10:56
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CharlesM posted:Maybe this is a silly question but why does it take a few days to replace a mirror? Paint-matching? It took one day, but I don't really need the car so I am leaving it at the dealership until the city cuts my insurance company a check. I only drive for fun, I don't commute at all. Not having a car just means it is easier for me, since I don't have to move it around at night / deal with parking.
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Jan 22, 2009 20:20
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I'm looking at an '06 WRX wagon, but it has 136,000km (about 85,000 miles). Should this be scaring me? It's only $16k and has a clear title.
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Jan 23, 2009 04:20
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VERTiG0 posted:I'm looking at an '06 WRX wagon, but it has 136,000km (about 85,000 miles). Should this be scaring me? It's only $16k and has a clear title.
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Jan 23, 2009 04:46
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I bought an '05 9-2x with 35k miles for $12k... I bought it from a coworker so that's not the norm but $16k for a car with 85k miles is pretty ridiculous.
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Jan 23, 2009 05:13
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VERTiG0 posted:I'm looking at an '06 WRX wagon, but it has 136,000km (about 85,000 miles). Should this be scaring me? It's only $16k and has a clear title. Tad on the high side price wise. I picked up my 04 WRX with a Stage 2 setup with receipts from AMS, 52k miles, for $14k even. Came with 2 sets of wheels too.
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Jan 23, 2009 06:13
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VERTiG0 posted:I'm looking at an '06 WRX wagon, but it has 136,000km (about 85,000 miles). Should this be scaring me? It's only $16k and has a clear title. Not sure on the price, especially in Canada land. I will say that you should try to find an 06-07 over the older models because it has a 2.5l, which is much, much better than the 2.0. It also gets fixed, opposed piston calipers and bigger rear brakes than every other wrx.
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Jan 23, 2009 06:54
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