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Leperflesh posted:That sideways one is weird though. Is that in the US? I've seen a few in the US, but not often and not new lights. I suspect if there are any still around, they are slowly getting phased out.
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Jan 21, 2009 00:22
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I knew someone that was r/g colorblind. He depended heavily on the location of the light to know if it was red or green. This was particularly difficult for him at night when he wouldn't tell if the light was at the top or the bottom of the signal. He also had trouble with a sideways light that we have not to far from here. He'd pull up to it at night very slowly until he was sure no one was coming or he could tell if it was red or green.
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Jan 21, 2009 01:42
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SynMoo posted:I knew someone that was r/g colorblind. He depended heavily on the location of the light to know if it was red or green. This was particularly difficult for him at night when he wouldn't tell if the light was at the top or the bottom of the signal.
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Jan 21, 2009 01:47
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What if they just, like, made green lights square? Or maybe a triangle.
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Jan 21, 2009 02:08
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Leperflesh posted:What if they just, like, made green lights square? Or maybe a triangle. I'd be down, but the companies that make those lights would probably whine. Though with lights switching to LEDs, it shouldn't be such a cost issue. Also it'd take years for the last round one to be taken down.
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Jan 21, 2009 02:22
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kimbo305 posted:I'd be down, but the companies that make those lights would probably whine. Though with lights switching to LEDs, it shouldn't be such a cost issue. Also it'd take years for the last round one to be taken down. Pretty sure the companies that make the lights would love to have every city buy new lights from them.
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Jan 21, 2009 02:55
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I need somewhere to store a car locally while I completely overhaul its suspension and other stuff. I was thinking about renting a big storage unit, storing it there on jackstands, and doing all my work there inside the unit. Even if they would let me do this, is it even a good idea or is there some problem with this that I haven't thought of?
Happy Thread fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jan 21, 2009 |
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Jan 21, 2009 03:17
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just keep scrolling posted:I need somewhere to store a car locally while I completely overhaul its suspension and other stuff. I was thinking about renting a big storage unit, storing it there on jackstands, and doing all my work there inside the unit. Even if they would let me do this, is it even a good idea or is there some problem with this that I haven't thought of? Power (and water). Most storage units lack electrical outlets - you can sometimes find one outside the unit somewhere, but they try to discourage people from doing things like living in their units (or doing work and spilling poo poo everywhere and so on).
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Jan 21, 2009 04:13
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Leperflesh posted:Power (and water). Most storage units lack electrical outlets - you can sometimes find one outside the unit somewhere, but they try to discourage people from doing things like living in their units (or doing work and spilling poo poo everywhere and so on). Good points. Also, routing the exhaust out if I decide I want to run the car would be an issue, as would having enough room to open the doors and stuff. All these problems would be solved if I could just find a real, actual garage for rent somewhere locally, but I have no idea where to start looking for that.
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Jan 21, 2009 06:46
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just keep scrolling posted:Good points. Also, routing the exhaust out if I decide I want to run the car would be an issue, as would having enough room to open the doors and stuff. All these problems would be solved if I could just find a real, actual garage for rent somewhere locally, but I have no idea where to start looking for that. Try Craigslist if it's in your area? I considered renting a garage and found no shortage of ads on CL.
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Jan 21, 2009 07:04
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n/m
RedmanJB fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jul 17, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2009 14:36
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RedmanJB posted:I rear ended someone today. I know that means I am at fault but genuinely feel that it was unavoidable and they stopped way too fast for me to react and stop behind them. What would be the best way to go about this in the cop reports? Not so much financial worries more like not wanting to lose my license. Would it have been unavoidable to leave the proper, required by law, 2 seconds between your car and his? No loving way. Don't blame your failure to drive properly on other people. This is your fault and you need to deal with it like a man and pay up. You won't lose your license, you'll simply have to pay for the damage in one way or another.
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Jan 21, 2009 15:17
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n/m
RedmanJB fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jul 17, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2009 15:28
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Pretty sure that every cop in the land will tell you that your failure to avoid running into the back of someones car meant that you did not leave enough stopping distance for yourself under the circumstances. Circumstances include the driver in front coming to a full stop because they saw a squirrel or they sneezed. You are the one who is supposed to be able to come to a stop safely without crashing into the car in front of you.
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Jan 21, 2009 16:01
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n/m
RedmanJB fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jul 17, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2009 16:04
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Your damage control options basically boil down to "I don't maintain my car properly, therefore could not brake" and "I wasn't paying attention to the road and didn't see him stop." Take your pick!
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Jan 21, 2009 17:35
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n/m
RedmanJB fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jul 17, 2011 |
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Jan 21, 2009 18:30
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RedmanJB posted:It appears I'm screwed regardless of the circumstances and I might as well not even try and plead my case honestly. Dude, I dont know what you want from us, but it sounds like your not interested in accepting responsibility for the accident. Look at it this way. What could have been done better to avoid the accident? Unless the guy in front of you did something intentional to cause you to not be able to stop in time, I think you will find that the only acceptable solution was for you to slow down and not follow so close. If you cant convince us that your not at fault here, how the hell are you going to explain to a judge. If its a real problem for you, I would consider talking to a lawyer. One time I hit a guy that had turned left onto the road I was travelling on. He waited till I was about close, then he pulled infront of me, and came to a comlete stop (to turn left again). I had enough time to turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn, an put my foot on the brake pedal before impact. I was charged with "failure to avoid collision", and fined $40.
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Jan 21, 2009 19:05
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revmoo posted:Would it have been unavoidable to leave the proper, required by law, 2 seconds between your car and his? No loving way. Don't blame your failure to drive properly on other people. This is your fault and you need to deal with it like a man and pay up. You won't lose your license, you'll simply have to pay for the damage in one way or another. For instance, someone could pull out into your lane going much slower (say, a sudden merge from the slow lane into your lane) and if the distance is short enough and the speed differential great enough, you would be unable to stop in time. That said, the original poster should get his rear end a court date and try his best to plead it down to something manageable. Careless driving in some states carries a huge penalty. He doesn't have to admit anything, the state has to prove that what he did was careless.
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Jan 21, 2009 19:47
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I've searched this thread to make sure that I'm not double-posting something that's already been addressed and it looks like I'm good. I have an 02 ford focus zts. A couple months ago a squeaking noise started up under the console near where the passengers feet would go. I figured out it was something fan related since every time i turned off the fan it would stop. It was a rather random squeaky noise, almost as if a rodent were up under there. Anyway, one day I got in the car and the blower didn't work on settings 1-3, however on 4 (the highest setting) it would kick in and blow like normal. However, at idle or after blowing for a while, the air would start to cool down a bit and no longer maintain full "heat" or whatever. I had a garage tell me it was the blower resistor, which they fixed and it seemed to work for a couple weeks until last week when the whole process started over again and now I'm back to the blower not working on settings 1-3 but working fine on 4. Does the blower resistor sound like the culprit again? If so is this something that I can do myself since it seems like a reasonably small part? If not, what do you gents think it might be. Thanks!
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Jan 21, 2009 22:37
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TeMpLaR posted:
:/ I've seen 3 cars on my street get mirrors plowed off since snow's been falling. Is there any recourse for this happening? It seems like there's no way to get hard evidence that it was a plow that did it. Much less find out which plow truck that was running.
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Jan 22, 2009 04:36
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I've got a hosed up alternator. A screw, washer, and grommet found their ways loose and (I assume) caused all kinds of commotion with the charging system. My plan of action is to restore these parts to their original position in the alternator, and then take it to Napa to have them test the part to see if it functions properly with that fix. If it does not, I'll probably get another rebuilt alt and try that. One obstacle I am coming across is that the little dudes in the voltage regulator that contact the rotor are spring-loaded, and it seems like it will be next to impossible to hold them in when I install the rotor and front half (I don't want to take the two apart, I don't trust myself with potentially messing up that bearing). Another issue is that there seems to be some small amount of vibration in that front bearing. I don't know how much is normal, but I know it's a bearing that fails with some regularity due to belt tension. I can feel some slop, but again I don't know what normal feels like. Any input? e: Nevermind, got it back together. Jamming zip ties through some vent holes into the brushes kept them in so I could put it back together. Taking it to Napa tomorrow to get it tested. Raluek fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Jan 23, 2009 |
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Jan 22, 2009 05:24
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Am I wasting my money on these pads for an '06 Infiniti G35 sedan or should I just get some Duralast Gold pads from Autozone? I don't do any high speed driving or make any sudden stops and the OEM pads stop just fine but if these are better (read: cheaper) then I figure I should get these.
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Jan 22, 2009 14:10
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azzenco posted:Am I wasting my money on these pads for an '06 Infiniti G35 sedan or should I just get some Duralast Gold pads from Autozone? I don't do any high speed driving or make any sudden stops and the OEM pads stop just fine but if these are better (read: cheaper) then I figure I should get these. They're the pads a lot of GTI guys get to upgrade from stock. Supposedly have a bit better initial bite than the stock pads, but still stop fine when cold (unlike the Hawk HP+ ones which need to be heated up a bit). I'll probably get a set myself when my stock brakes wear out. One thing I'm not sure about is how much dust they kick up. You may have to clean your wheels a bit more than usual with them. I don't know how they would compare to the stock brake pads on a G35, however. Depends on how good the stock brakes are.
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Jan 22, 2009 14:44
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Just for clarification, that's a go-for-launch with the duralast gold pads?
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Jan 22, 2009 18:10
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The left blinker on my 97 Camry flashes abnormally whenever I have my headlights on. The problem comes and goes and my mechanic cleaned the contacts but couldn't figure out what the root problem is. Cleaning the contacts worked but only for a while. After I brought my car in for a O2 sensor replacement the blinker was fine again for a while but now is back to quick flashing. I checked the car with and without the headlights on and all the proper turn signals and lights work fine. Any ideas?
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Jan 23, 2009 16:15
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Winter Light posted:The left blinker on my 97 Camry flashes abnormally whenever I have my headlights on. The problem comes and goes and my mechanic cleaned the contacts but couldn't figure out what the root problem is. Cleaning the contacts worked but only for a while. After I brought my car in for a O2 sensor replacement the blinker was fine again for a while but now is back to quick flashing. What do you mean by abnormally? Usually, this kind of thing is caused by one of the following: bad flasher bad relay short somewhere in the light wiring burnt bulb somewhere and in some cases broken switch on the steering column. But what is "abnormal blinking?" Blinking too fast usually means something's burnt out, and the flasher cycles faster since there's less load on the system. Too slow usually means there's a drain on the electrical system, the flasher isn't getting enough juice, and cycles more slowly. Broken switches and such can cause things like not blinking, or turn signals blink BOTH sides instead of just one, or who knows what else...
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Jan 23, 2009 18:20
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how much would painting a FMIC black hurt it's efficiency? I'd like to keep the car looking as close to stock as possible and am willing to take a slight hit in power to do so.
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Jan 24, 2009 00:05
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kmcormick9 posted:how much would painting a FMIC black hurt it's efficiency? It may have little to no effect on it, but I would imagine that the paint would serve to insulate it a bit, and if you clog up fins with paint that would be bad too, but Im guessing you wont even notice the performace difference.
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Jan 24, 2009 00:30
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Is there any reason to buy an OEM radio over one in a store? I'd love to have a radio with Stereo Bluetooth A2DP and the steering wheel controls.
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Jan 24, 2009 03:47
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Drighton posted:Is there any reason to buy an OEM radio over one in a store? What vehicle would this be going in? Sometimes OEM systems do things that make installing aftermarket radios a pain. Check out https://www.crutchfield.com to see what radios would work. They let you sort by features pretty easily. Just be aware that they don't differentiate very well between Bluetooth for phone calling, and Bluetooth for Audio Streaming (A2DP). Decks that have built in Bluetooth generally seem to work a little better (controls wise) than decks that have it as an addon. Also, getting it built in is usually cheaper. Otherwise it is $50 - $150 extra. You will probably need to buy an addon module to use your steering wheel buttons ($75). Edit: I just picked up the discontinued FB275BT. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020FB275BB/Clarion-FB275BT.html It has some quirks (no AM, no fast forwarding tracks, no CD, 2GB max SD), but for the price I think it is hard to beat. I am not sure if this one has an addon for steering wheel buttons. It is being replaced by this for $280: http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2009/audio/source_units/bluetooth_usb/FZ709/us-en-product-pf_1172409026861.html http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020FZ709/Clarion-FZ709.html Personally, I do not like the flat face (I do not want to have to look at my radio to change things), and I dislike the lack of a knob. Bluetooth Adapters: http://www.crutchfield.com/g_280050/Bluetooth-Kits-for-Aftermarket-Stereos.html?tp=8272 Steering Wheel Controls: http://www.crutchfield.com/g_118900/Steering-Wheel-Audio-Control-Adapters.html?tp=476 Decks with Bluetooth Built in: http://www.crutchfield.com/g_300/Car-Receivers.html?tp=5684&avf=N&nvpair=FFBluetooth_Compatible%7CBuilt-in Swap_File fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jan 24, 2009 |
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Jan 24, 2009 04:47
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Its an 06 Kia Sorento. The package I got didn't come with the steering wheel controls. Looks like its a double din size. Already went to Crutchfield and I already bookmarked the Clarion you linked, but I'm not sure how that would fit in the cavity. I also found this post via google that confirms that Kia offers what I'm looking for in newer models. What I was curious about was whether buying/installing aftermarket can cause any problems with something like warranty.
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Jan 24, 2009 05:12
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Drighton posted:What I was curious about was whether buying/installing aftermarket can cause any problems with something like warranty. It'll screw your warranty if you have problems with the radio. It wouldn't affect anything else.
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Jan 24, 2009 09:54
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I'm after images of big rigs / lorries in various state of disassembly so I can get an idea of how they go together (scratchbuilding project) GIS and ebay and random googling are getting me nowhere fast - any recommendations?
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Jan 24, 2009 18:47
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My already rotted exhaust system broke apart the other day. Now my truck is super loud. Everything should basically be fine until I get a new pipe, right?
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Jan 24, 2009 21:10
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TheFrailNinja posted:My already rotted exhaust system broke apart the other day. Now my truck is super loud. Everything should basically be fine until I get a new pipe, right? Depends on where it broke, but yeah, it should. Make sure the exhaust isn't bending mounting points (ie, heavy parts hanging from parts that aren't designed to support the entire weight) and that your O2 sensors (if applicable) are still in the intact portion. Worst case for either of those things not being true isn't that bad, though - one you have to redo some mounting points, two you lose fuel economy until you fix the pipe.
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Jan 24, 2009 21:17
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Uthor posted:It'll screw your warranty if you have problems with the radio. It wouldn't affect anything else.
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Jan 24, 2009 22:12
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This is regarding a 2001 Lincoln Town Car: All controls on my steering wheel stopped working (cruise, radio, fan) as well as the horn and the airbag light stays on. I've checked all of the fuses and they're fine, so my next step was going to be removing the screws on the bottom side of the steering column and looking for loose connections. The only thing that scares me here is the fact that this car has an airbag and I don't know if I should be loving around with it then. I hate to take it to a shop because I'm sure it's going to cost a ton out here in Southern California any ideas?
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Jan 25, 2009 02:41
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*edit*  Nevermind, I'm retarded... I got it
Devyl fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Jan 25, 2009 |
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Jan 25, 2009 04:23
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I've still got my '88 Honda Accord LX (2 barrel Carb) 5-spd w/ 125k miles on it. Recently, especially when I shift into first gear at certain speeds (coasting with the clutch depressed while braking, usually right at a stop light/sign), the stick will vibrate a lot and make a noise that sounds like vibration somewhere in the shifter. I back off and try it again and it usually works, mostly if my speed the second time is slower. This never happens when shifting into first from a stopped position. This also hasn't happened with any other gear. Is this something I should even worry about, and if it is something I should worry about, what kind of problem could it be? My clutch seems fine, and I performed the test where you're in 2nd going 25-30 then switch to 5th and floor it and my speedometer showed the speed that I was going. The guy I bought it from at 120k miles in June told me he recently had the clutch replaced, but I have no clue what, if anything else he did to it (or if he even really replaced the clutch) since he provided not a spec of records for it (dirt cheap 20 year old beater, what do you expect?). Also, I know the factory says that it's supposed to have 13" tires, but someone along the line stuck 14" tires on all but the front driver's, which is still a 13. A) How badly does this affect my mileage, if at all? B) When I get them replaced, should I keep the 14's or go with the 13's? Also, any specific brands that would get the best longevity for the price? I live in Texas and we get snow/ice maybe once every 3 years and it rains maybe an inch a month, on average, if that. This is mostly a city driver with highway on the weekends. I know this last question sounds like something I should already know, but I've had a long string of beaters and this one I want to last for as long as it's financially practical while I save up for a new (to me) car (thinking BMW e36 coupe), which will probably be a year or so down the road.
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Jan 25, 2009 04:55
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