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BraveUlysses posted:sigh, makes me really wonder if I have the limited slip or not. If you want to check without crawling under your car (the tag should say, but usually they are very rusted), just jack up the back end so both rear tires can spin freely, and then put it in neutral and try turning a wheel and see what the other one does. It helps if you have another friend to turn the other wheel too. Basically like this on a bigger scale: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Am9Jvj4Bdjw It's what I do at the junkyard before I bother getting under the car and cleaning off the differential Amazingly I found another E30 (Well, E28, but it is the same case) diff this last weekend at the junkyard. This time it was a 3.46LSD with 140,000 miles on it for $50. I figure it will be a little better for mileage than the 3.73 LSD with the M50 in the 318ti.
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Jan 25, 2009 02:47
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I went out and tested it today and I do in fact have the LSD! I've ripped off the valve cover and intake manifold, in an effort to track down all the oil leaks. The valve cover gasket was leaking and the PCV breather hose leaking like crazy. I'm hoping these were the only oil leaks, but who knows when you're dealing with a BMW  .Both the upper and lower oil pans are coming off tomorrow to see if the "whats locktite precious?" oil pump bolts have backed out.
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Jan 25, 2009 05:34
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Well, I was doing my pump swap on Thursday and I found I have the wrong pump. There's no economical or reliable way to get an LF-20 pump for the 2001, but I keep reading it's possible to fit the LF-30 pump if I switch the high pressure output hose. I just want to make sure, if anyone out there has done a rack swap, are the fittings for the output hose on the rack going to be the same? It sounds like it is, and I hear lots of people talk about swapping E46 racks for E36 racks, I just want to make sure that I'll get this right.
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Jan 25, 2009 05:50
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For the past year and a half I've been driving a beater 1992 318i that I picked up for £500- cloth upholstery, fading blue paintwork and 115K when I get it, 127k now. Gunther as I named him was a great car, but still very much due retirememnt. And so last weekend I got my payslip and realised that all the overtime I'd accrued had all been paid at once. I decided it was time to treat myself to a late Christmas present. After a few days browsing on Autotrader.co.uk I managed to find myself something really rather nice.  This is Karl, so called because he's German and red (Yeah, I name my cars like an idiot- the predecessor was Gunther). He's a 1997 E36 323i. Former company car, hence a slightly high mileage of 103,000 but kept in absolutely amazing condition. Also he had his engine swapped out for a more updated model at around 83k miles. I've loved BMWs since I first stepped behind the wheel of Gunther, but now my addiction is hopelessly strong. I've been driving him every moment that I can- the difference in power between a beat up 1.8l engine and the 2.5l is quite staggering- and so is the fuel efficiency, surprisingly. In short I'm hopelessly in love. Ended up paying £1450 for him- money very well spent, I feel.  Another shot without my ugly mug. Sorry for the poor picture quality, but I'm between cameras at the moment and had to borrow my dad's.
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Jan 25, 2009 15:28
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maxallen posted:Well, I was doing my pump swap on Thursday and I found I have the wrong pump. There's no economical or reliable way to get an LF-20 pump for the 2001, but I keep reading it's possible to fit the LF-30 pump if I switch the high pressure output hose. I just want to make sure, if anyone out there has done a rack swap, are the fittings for the output hose on the rack going to be the same? It sounds like it is, and I hear lots of people talk about swapping E46 racks for E36 racks, I just want to make sure that I'll get this right. Get the part # off of the old LP-20, since there are two different LP-30 pumps available. Here is a bulletin that relates to what you're trying to do: BMW NA, SIB 32 19 05 posted:
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Jan 26, 2009 00:26
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I've been looking at a lot of '01 (ish) 5 and 7 series cars lately. Can someone clue me in as to the difference between these two displays? So far as I can tell it's almost totally random which one a car is going to have - it doesn't seem to tie in to the year, model or any option package I can identify - what gives and what's the functional difference? 
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Jan 26, 2009 05:35
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OrangeFurious posted:I've been looking at a lot of '01 (ish) 5 and 7 series cars lately. Can someone clue me in as to the difference between these two displays? So far as I can tell it's almost totally random which one a car is going to have - it doesn't seem to tie in to the year, model or any option package I can identify - what gives and what's the functional difference? Tape deck and cd player perhaps?
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Jan 26, 2009 05:42
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KickStand posted:Tape deck and cd player perhaps? The listings I'm reading say cassette, CD and CD changer are included regardless of display.
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Jan 26, 2009 05:52
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OrangeFurious posted:I've been looking at a lot of '01 (ish) 5 and 7 series cars lately. Can someone clue me in as to the difference between these two displays? So far as I can tell it's almost totally random which one a car is going to have - it doesn't seem to tie in to the year, model or any option package I can identify - what gives and what's the functional difference? According to realoem, on the 3-series, #1 was used until MY2002, and #2 is MY2002+. Edit: No idea if they have the same nav software. Edit 2: Here's some info, no idea what use it is to you, but... http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php/Navigation maxallen fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Jan 26, 2009 |
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Jan 26, 2009 05:58
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Get the widescreen. I don't even know if you can get new mkII units. I also like how that wiki article tells you where you can get illegal MKIV firmware. 
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Jan 26, 2009 12:56
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Mad Dragon posted:Get the widescreen. I don't even know if you can get new mkII units. You definitely want the wide-screen NAV. maxallen is correct, but they made that widescreen switch mid-year I believe. There's still a tape deck in the widescreen, that upper eject button will have that screen slide down 3-4" and there's a hidden tape deck back there. Pretty sure that the CD option is a 6-disc trunk unit in ALL of these versions. That part shouldn't matter as you'll quickly want an Intravee / Alpine iPod connector setup to hook an iPod directly into that display. It works really well.
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Jan 26, 2009 15:05
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usurper posted:You definitely want the wide-screen NAV. maxallen is correct, but they made that widescreen switch mid-year I believe. There's still a tape deck in the widescreen, that upper eject button will have that screen slide down 3-4" and there's a hidden tape deck back there. Pretty sure that the CD option is a 6-disc trunk unit in ALL of these versions. RealOEM shows a Cassette, Mini-Disc (Japan I assume), or CD drive behind it. Widescreen: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BN53&mospid=47713&btnr=65_1181&hg=65&fg=45 Other: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BN53&mospid=47713&btnr=65_0491&hg=65&fg=45 Based on the dates in the wiki, I think the cassette is a MkIII, not a MKIV. Still, go for the widescreen if the car is good. Also, it looks like the GPS unit itself is the same regardless of display, so you may be able to retrofit a newer unit if needed.
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Jan 26, 2009 15:25
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maxallen posted:
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Jan 26, 2009 15:47
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pulled the oil pan yesterday, ALL 6 bolts which hold the upper oil pan on had fallen out! The gasket is the only thing holding it on!
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Jan 26, 2009 17:00
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Mad Dragon posted:Get the widescreen. I don't even know if you can get new mkII units. Thanks for the clarification on it. I was already set on the widescreen unit but wanted to know why it seemed so random which cars they were in. Midyear swap explains that.
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Jan 26, 2009 18:13
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BraveUlysses posted:pulled the oil pan yesterday, ALL 6 bolts which hold the upper oil pan on had fallen out! The gasket is the only thing holding it on! Oh man. Now you've got me worried about mine.  Did you have any funny noise or rattling?
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Jan 27, 2009 02:08
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none whatsoever. Pull the pan, it's easy and the gasket is cheap. That oil leak actually saved my engine, by forcing me to deal with it.
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Jan 27, 2009 05:50
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I think I'll go out and check my oil pan bolts tonight
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Jan 27, 2009 14:13
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CornHolio posted:I think I'll go out and check my oil pan bolts tonight Do you have a BMW with the M42 or M60 engine? I thought you had a 325i?
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Jan 27, 2009 14:53
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Brock Landers posted:Do you have a BMW with the M42 or M60 engine? I thought you had a 325i? Were the M42 and M60 engines notorious for that? I have an M52 and I know removing the oil pan requires removing the steering rack and various suspension bits but I know my gasket has seen better days. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Jan 27, 2009 |
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Jan 27, 2009 15:02
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CornHolio posted:Were the M42 and M60 engines notorious for that? I have an M52 and I know removing the oil pan requires removing the steering rack and various suspension bits but I know my gasket has seen better days. The issue we're talking about is the oil pump bolts coming loose. You have to remove the pan to see the bolts and often people will find that several of the 6 bolts have wiggled loose and are lying in the bottom of the pan. There is no outside indication of this. The pan gasket leaking is a separate issue, but leads to the discovery of the loose bolts. The M52 doesn't have the oil pump bolt issue, but if your gasket is leaking, you'll have to remove the pan and replace the gasket.
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Jan 27, 2009 16:11
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Brock Landers posted:The issue we're talking about is the oil pump bolts coming loose. You have to remove the pan to see the bolts and often people will find that several of the 6 bolts have wiggled loose and are lying in the bottom of the pan. There is no outside indication of this. The pan gasket leaking is a separate issue, but leads to the discovery of the loose bolts. The M52 doesn't have the oil pump bolt issue, but if your gasket is leaking, you'll have to remove the pan and replace the gasket. ah hah. My gasket isn't leaking (yet) but if/when I change it I guess I won't worry about the oil pump bolt.
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Jan 27, 2009 16:25
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CornHolio posted:ah hah. My gasket isn't leaking (yet) but if/when I change it I guess I won't worry about the oil pump bolt. You have to worry about the nut holding on the oil pump sprocket, that will sometimes back itself off. And replacing the oil pan involves removing the front subframe and holding the engine up with a hoist.
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Jan 27, 2009 17:04
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Does anyone know what the threshhold for the Oil level light on the e30 diagnostic board is? Currently it lights up along with the awesome flashing check engine, but I triple checked the level after my car was sitting and it's halfway between the two indents. I added 1L just in case, but it definetely seems like there is plenty of oil. I'm also starting to dislike BMW's love for making every little thing on the E30 twist into place. I don't know how loving hard I wrenched on the dipstick before I realized you have to turn it. I've also managed to remove my gas cap with the metal tabs in the position they are when the cap is normally closed. I don't even know how the gently caress I got it out that way, but it sure pissed me off in -20C weather when I couldn't get my gas cap back on.
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Jan 27, 2009 23:06
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Crustashio posted:Does anyone know what the threshhold for the Oil level light on the e30 diagnostic board is? Currently it lights up along with the awesome flashing check engine, but I triple checked the level after my car was sitting and it's halfway between the two indents. I added 1L just in case, but it definetely seems like there is plenty of oil. Your oil level sensor could be hosed -- Mine has been for ages, enough to actually burn out the LED on my diag panel. I haven't really felt like ponying up the money for a new one.
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Jan 27, 2009 23:57
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I've been away from the SA forums for a while(I actively post on BimmerForums.com as a BMW Dealer.) I just saw this thread so I figured I would whore my car out there. 1998 M3 Coupe 5-Speed Cosmos with Mulberry interior.  Suspension: UUC Motorwerks SwayBarbarians The Racer's Market Coilovers(camber plates included) Ground Control Rear Camber Control Arms UUC Motorwerks Rear Trailing Arm Bushings UUC Motorwerks Rear Subframe Bushings AKG Motorsport 75D Differential Bushings Powerflex Front Control Arm Bushings Sparco Strut Brace Underbody X-Brace Rolled Rear Fenders with 255/40-17 Bridgstones Lighting: OEM Clear Lights DEPO Headlights DDM Tuning HID's DEPO Fogs with HID Drivetrain: Cosmos v2 Intake ASC delete M50 Manifold UUC Motorwerks RSC36 Exhaust UUC Motorwerks Red Transmission Mounts UUC Motorwerks EVO3 Short Shifter UUC Motorwerks DSSR UUC Motorwerks 10th Anniversary really freaking heavy Shift Knob Interior: Aux Input CD43 OEM CD headunit OEM Alarm install Dyno Sheet on a Land and Sea AWD Dyno  No Software yet... The vehicle does see track time 3-7 times a year and starting this year, autocross... it is not a hardparked BMW. Shotty Johnson fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Jan 28, 2009 |
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Jan 28, 2009 00:08
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:You have to worry about the nut holding on the oil pump sprocket, that will sometimes back itself off. not necessarily removing it, dropping it down works. disconnecting the suspension from the subframe is not necessary. Also I have done the oil pump nut, I drilled through it, cotterpinned and loctited it. It'll never come off unless I need it to...
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Jan 28, 2009 00:35
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I wired a new head unit into my 92 325is today and it seems like the speed dependent volume adjustment is reversed. Instead of getting louder, the volume decreases until it is essentially turned off at about 70km/h. Anyone know if there's a way to turn this "feature" off without the stock stereo?
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Feb 1, 2009 06:57
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turbo sex bat 4000 posted:I wired a new head unit into my 92 325is today and it seems like the speed dependent volume adjustment is reversed. Instead of getting louder, the volume decreases until it is essentially turned off at about 70km/h. Your E36 has that? I didn't notice it on my E36 and I don't notice it on my E39. Do I have it?
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Feb 1, 2009 06:59
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Xenoid posted:Your E36 has that? I didn't notice it on my E36 and I don't notice it on my E39. Do I have it? I don't know for sure, I didn't have a functioning radio prior to this. I don't have any other explanation besides the factory amp being retarded.
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Feb 1, 2009 07:12
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Lufiron posted:Get the part # off of the old LP-20, since there are two different LP-30 pumps available. Here is a bulletin that relates to what you're trying to do: Thanks for this info. I got the swap done on Thursday, and it's working perfectly. There was a bunch of air in the system Thursday night and it was liking to growl, got up the next morning and the whole reservoir was empty. No leaks though, just had that much air.
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Feb 1, 2009 07:17
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Turns out I was just retarded and believed a pinout someone posted on bimmerforums. I'm surprised it worked at all with the speed signal being used as switched 12V.
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Feb 2, 2009 01:51
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I'm looking at getting a 2000 323I 4 door. It's an automatic, but one of the dealerships photos looks like it has a stick, maybe they just stole the photo? It's listed at $8900 CAD and I'm wondering if anyone with experience with late 90's/early 00's models can tell me if this price is about right. It sounds too good to be true, but I am not that knowledgeable on BMWs. I'm also looking at a 2000 Audi A4 which is listed at about $10800 and has a few more features, but I'm really in love with how this car looks (and the cheaper price)  The only problem I have with the body is that you can see through the front grill, is it missing a part? Every other model I've seen it's just black behind the grill. Is this easily replaceable? TIA
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Feb 2, 2009 03:52
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TheYellowFog posted:The only problem I have with the body is that you can see through the front grill, is it missing a part? Every other model I've seen it's just black behind the grill. Is this easily replaceable? TIA Front grille looks normal to me. As for the automatic, if it's the original tranny and it's approaching or reached 6 digit mileage, I'd say leave it behind. Too many reports of those things just randomly failing even if properly maintained.
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Feb 2, 2009 04:56
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Yea the grill is normal, it just doesn't look like that in real life because you don't have a flash or the sun taped to your forehead, so all the stuff behind the grill is usually dark.
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Feb 2, 2009 06:23
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Lowclock posted:Yea the grill is normal, it just doesn't look like that in real life because you don't have a flash or the sun taped to your forehead, so all the stuff behind the grill is usually dark. Also I think you don't usually look through the grill at that angle.
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Feb 2, 2009 14:04
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I've just had my company car. Had to choose it out of the pool (as I'm a new starter - I get to choose a new car in November) and ended up with a 2005 120D. Never owned a BMW before (but RWD is nothing new). It's good to drive, fast, powerful and generally very very comfy. I can definitely tell the difference in quality - so yeah, consider me a convert even if I may not be able to get another one for a bit. No room in the back, but we're a young couple so no issue there.
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Feb 2, 2009 17:50
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How much do BMWs tend to depreciate? I'm thinking of putting $1500NZ or so from each website I build (my primary source of income) into a car fund for when my little brother turns 16 and gets to drive my current Hyundai Getz. With a bit of luck and some hard work, I should have around 16-20 grand sitting in that fund by then (in 3 years or so.) At current prices over here, that'd land me a 1999 Z3 with under 60,000km on the clock or an 01 with maybe 90,000km. Is it unrealistic to hope that an early model Z4 would be about that price range 3 years from now? Zygar fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Feb 3, 2009 |
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Feb 3, 2009 04:28
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Hey there, I think I killed my navigation.  I have an '01 E38 with a MKIII nav and the widescreen display. It was running 3-1/21. I attempted to upgrade to v22. I used Disk Utility (Mac) to burn a copy of the V32 software to disk, working under the impression the newer software will upgrade the older machines as far as they'll go. Am I totally off base here? With the nav system up, I ejected the map disk and installed my v32 disk. It said it was reading software, then went black. After about ten minutes I heard what sounded like the disk grinding in the trunk. After that, every few minutes I could hear the disk whir, but it wouldn't spit it out. The nav unit shows lights on the eject button, but not on the power button. Any ideas on if this is recoverable? Side note - I bought the car on Saturday. I broke it Monday. 
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Feb 3, 2009 06:44
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What's the final word on doing a fan delete mod for an E36? I have all the parts I need for a cooling system overhaul, and I'm debating if I should leave my mechanical fan and clutch in or not. I would be in it for reliability (not blowing up fans), not for whatever minuscule power gain I may get. I've seen very intelligent posts on BF.C advocating both sides of the story, and need some help making a decision. For reference, I am upgrading stock cooling parts to a Stewart water pump, and Ireland Engineering Aluminum radiator. The thermostat is the stock 88C one, though. If I don't remove the fan and clutch, I will replace them both. If I do remove them, down the road I will probably get a SPAL electric setup. I am leaning towards removing the fan and clutch, because due to my upgraded cooling system, I think I'll be okay. Also, I live in NJ, which is not incredibly warm (and as an extra precaution, I will be getting a SPAL fan at some later time). Any opinions?
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Feb 3, 2009 23:47
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