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just a couple more photos from my morning off-road adventure. Peekaboo!  
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Jan 28, 2009 09:07
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MMD3 posted:I love how this is typical automotive photography for showing off a car, except the car is in a ditch. It's got the right angles, it just needs a mountain or an industrial building in the background instead of the other side of a ditch.
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Jan 28, 2009 09:11
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:My story might change the first time I break something really expensive, though. Yes it will  - have fun but remeber, you will break poo poo eventually. But then again there are people in the local WRX club who hammer their cars, break poo poo and come back the next event. The biggest laugh is seeign an 05 get towed away with a gearbox detonation, to return perfect the next week. Some guys will just fling whatever it takes to have fun . You milage will varyOn the 08 vs 09 - I'd agree if you were going to modify, an 08 would be the best target. Your going to toss most of the things that make an 09 better in the first place and 08's arent holding value all that well so get the cheaper base and use the difference to upgrade more. If you dont want to mod, then there's no argument, 09 is the way to go. Personally, an 08 WRX might well end up being the best one to grab for modders, just simply because of the unloved status, resultign in lower initial cost. I was seriously looking at an 08 and then doing a Group N conversion to it - you can grab 08's with gently caress all kms here for 3/4rds new price, then just go to town. As a racing base where you have to strip poo poo out anyway, an 08 will simply rock. And in fact I was about to get one before the STI popped up at a dont argue price. Even if the 08 has issues in race / rally trim, if you want a basically new race / modded WRX, it's not a bad option at all. Was also looking at an EVO X too but.... ugh. Big. Unweildly. No thanks.
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Jan 28, 2009 11:32
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Right now I drive a supercharged 2003 VW GTI VR6. The stock clutch is starting to slip a bit early (which is typical on this trans with the power I'm making... a better clutch and you last longer than 70k but start breaking more expensive poo poo). I am going to have to sort out some title issues with the car (I paid for it entirely and it is paid off, but it is in my dad's name as I bought it when I was 17). Anyway, point is this: in the next 3-4 months I am going to be selling that car and purchasing something else. Repairs are just too costly on it, it is hard to do any work on it myself (an oil change is like a small ordeal as it involves removing a lot of stuff, an oil filter cartridge, etc, etc). I also want something with 4 doors, ideally a wagon. AWD would also be nice as I head into the mountains fairly frequently to skiing/snowshoing. Initially I thought: Audi. Then I realized it would be just as expensive and rediculous to fix/maintain as my VW. So then I thought, Subaru. And I think that is what I'm going to go with, I'd like to hear more about them. I specifically like second gen Subaru Outback Wagons. Like this:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. I'd just like to hear more about them. My roommate used to have one and it was great but he had a headgasket go out (which was most likely due to overheating his car as he was a tard about cars and most things in general). I've heard the SOHC 2.5 like in these cars is not especially prone to headgasket problems, true? How about the H6 version? More cramped to work on, I bet. I don't particularly want the power, I'm sure the fuel economy takes a poopie. I would like a 5sp. Any particular problems with these? Better than the slushbox I presume, and I know the mtx's handle the awd differently. Things to watch out for? I'll hopefully be buying a 2002-2004 (I try to avoid first/second year models as a rule) with a bit under 100k. I know I'll need to do the timing belt at 100k, how hard is it to do myself? Waterpump, cam seals, etc at the same time? What does it cost for a shop to do it? I'm not really interested in modifying this car at all, except for Hankook W409s with studs or an equivalent generic winter tire set and steel wheels. If there are any longetivity mods or things that are simply a must-do (I know on some cars say, upgrading to different shocks will increase both their life and handling of the car without any kind of harshness compromise - on others the OE shocks are fine if they are in good order) I would do those kinds of things and would like to hear them. I'm looking at something in this price range, mileage range, etc. Basically if this car was for sale in May I would be seriously considering it: here
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Jan 28, 2009 15:38
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I would opt for the Outback XT or Legacy GT wagon over the Outback H6; not necessarily because the H6 is worse, but because I suspect it's hard to go back from forced induction to free breathing. Additionally, once you do get the urge to go and tune it (you will) it will probably be easier. Your roommate's blown head gasket is possibly due to the bad run of head gaskets in the initial 2.5L machines; I believe this is mentioned previously in the thread, but I was told that at this point Subaru had them outsourced and the outsourcer did a terrible job. Here are some links about the head gasket issues: http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ I'm not sure of the difficulty of installing the new head gasket, but a dealership can certainly do it if you can't. In my own experience I've yet to find a 2.5L Subaru in the used market (out of about 10-12 I've looked at) that hasn't had this done. If you're interested in the Outback "body style" but want something smaller, I recommend the 2000-and-earlier GC Impreza "L" wagons; they are quite fetching (more than the Outback, in my opinion) and may have the 2.2L "bulletproof engine."
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Jan 28, 2009 16:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would opt for the Outback XT or Legacy GT wagon over the Outback H6; not necessarily because the H6 is worse, but because I suspect it's hard to go back from forced induction to free breathing. Additionally, once you do get the urge to go and tune it (you will) it will probably be easier. Yeah, I don't really want a turbo motor. I have plenty of cars for messing around with. This car will be bone stock. I'd probably rather have the fuel economy of the 2.5 over the H6. The power isn't really that important, assuming an H4 equipped 5sp Outback can cruise comfortably at 80mph on the interstate all day long. A big road trip is in our future, I think - the wagon would be nice for that as we could take the doggy with us (although probably wouldn't), and all of our stuff.
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Jan 28, 2009 17:14
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would opt for the Outback XT or Legacy GT wagon over the Outback H6; not necessarily because the H6 is worse, but because I suspect it's hard to go back from forced induction to free breathing. Additionally, once you do get the urge to go and tune it (you will) it will probably be easier. You may want to consider the same generation legacy GT if you don't need the clearance. Those are the same 2.5L NA as the others, but comes with some different handling equipment. However, I've heard that until 05, the 2.5 NA may have headgasket issues, but I'm no expert.
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Jan 28, 2009 17:37
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nm posted:The FI LGTs and OBXTs are 05+ and much more expensive that those cars. Sounds like the 00-03 2.5s have HGs that fail externally (whereas the DOHC motors fail internally and cause a lot of problems). There was a conditioner that could have been added by the dealer and if so, the HG warranty is bumped up to 8years, meaning it would still be under warranty. Definitely something to check into about the conditioner, but external coolant leaking is not *that* bad (still do not want it though). I guess the OE coolant is really important, as is adding the conditioner (leaking or not). The problem is pretty rare on 03s - seems most of them got the new HG design. The 04s are all safe. Obviously 05 moves me into a newer body style and while some are available they typically are asking more for the "same" equipment/miles/condition. I will be focusing on 03-04 Outback Wagons with a 5sp. Good news is that all Outbacks from 2003-2006 have the cold weather package as standard. That means heated windshield, seats, mirrors, and... a rear LSD.
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Jan 28, 2009 18:18
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If the Outbacks you are looking at have the same transmission as the 2001 model my parents have, you will have similar gearing to what I was complaining about in my RS. Your cruising RPMs at 80 will be fairly high and you'll wish you had another gear to shift into. I think the final drive on the Outback might be a bit taller, so it won't be quite as bad, but it will still be up there in the RPMs at that speed.
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Jan 28, 2009 18:30
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Mr. Powers posted:If the Outbacks you are looking at have the same transmission as the 2001 model my parents have, you will have similar gearing to what I was complaining about in my RS. Your cruising RPMs at 80 will be fairly high and you'll wish you had another gear to shift into. I think the final drive on the Outback might be a bit taller, so it won't be quite as bad, but it will still be up there in the RPMs at that speed. Like what are we talking about? As long as it will comfortably do that speed I don't mind higher RPMS. My GTI is a 3500 in 6th, which is very loud with the cat- back and Borla. I've gotten used to it. Now if it is struggling to be at 80 then that is a problem, but 3.5-4k is not going to bother me unless someone thinks it is bad for the engine to cruise at that speed. Being in the powerband makes it easier to pass anyway. I've been in some car where you pretty much have to downshift to do anything on the highway because they cruise at like <2000rpm. I'd rather not have that.
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Jan 28, 2009 18:44
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Disciple of Pain posted:Like what are we talking about? As long as it will comfortably do that speed I don't mind higher RPMS. My GTI is a 3500 in 6th, which is very loud with the cat- back and Borla. I've gotten used to it. Even being at 3.5-4k, you will have to downshift to pass if you are going 80. I am a bit biased because I had hardened engine mounts so the drone of the engine was ridiculously loud. It probably isn't that bad in the Outback. I haven't driven my parents' much.
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Jan 28, 2009 18:51
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Disciple of Pain posted:Sounds like the 00-03 2.5s have HGs that fail externally (whereas the DOHC motors fail internally and cause a lot of problems). There was a conditioner that could have been added by the dealer and if so, the HG warranty is bumped up to 8years, meaning it would still be under warranty. I have 02' Impreza with the externally leaking gaskets. It had the conditioner done a long time ago and since then the previous owner had never changed the coolant. Unfortunately Subaru of Canada wont honor the 100,000 mile warranty offered in the states. The good thing is that its a really small leak, and it seems to have pretty much disappeared once I changed the coolant and put the conditioner in. I'm anticipating that I'll have to do the gaskets eventually but since its an external leak its not a show stopping engine killer unless you let the fluids get low.
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Jan 28, 2009 19:10
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Mr. Powers posted:Even being at 3.5-4k, you will have to downshift to pass if you are going 80. I am a bit biased because I had hardened engine mounts so the drone of the engine was ridiculously loud. It probably isn't that bad in the Outback. I haven't driven my parents' much. Well, I know (not really because if you put your put down on my GTI at 3500rpm it will pull from 80 to 140 in very very short order) - I'm not so much talking about passing at 80mph, and I understand if I want to wind it up past that to get around someone it will be a problem - but I have been in some lower-powered cars that would cruise WAY out of the powerband and to increase speed at all you pretty much had to downshift. Even if you didn't need even remotely rapid acceleration you pretty much couldn't make the car go faster when it was in top gear.
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Jan 28, 2009 21:02
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NeerWas fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Aug 9, 2023 |
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Jan 28, 2009 21:18
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MMD3 posted:how's this? 90 degree left turn. some guy that lived in the apartment complex walked out and told us that in the 2 years he's lived there he's seen 3 dozen cars go into that ditch. thing is like 4' deep. If you can go off the road in that with an AWD car, your tires must be made of oiled marble. I drive in worse than that every day for 9 months out of the year and I haven't lost it yet.
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Jan 28, 2009 22:52
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indeed.
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littlehulkster posted:If you can go off the road in that with an AWD car, your tires must be made of oiled marble. I drive in worse than that every day for 9 months out of the year and I haven't lost it yet. the problem was it was only like a half inch and right hovering around freezing so it was basically just covered in slick slush, I more or less hydroplaned from what I can tell.
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Jan 28, 2009 23:33
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Anyone else with an '07+ and the Subaru "traction control" feel like it's hinderance? When you're going at slow speeds, and you turn, you tend to understeer, so you gas it to bring the back end around and pull the front in line.. Well the car then realizes your tires are spinning and puts the brakes back on for you  effectively helping you continue to understeer. Oops.Previously, i'd been ambivalent about it, but tonight in this storm I really found it obnoxious. Thankfully I'm just a buttons-click away from turning it off.
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Jan 28, 2009 23:48
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Fantastipotamus posted:Anyone else with an '07+ and the Subaru "traction control" feel like it's hinderance? When you're going at slow speeds, and you turn, you tend to understeer, so you gas it to bring the back end around and pull the front in line.. Well the car then realizes your tires are spinning and puts the brakes back on for you I turn it off only when there are no other cars on the road and intentionally gas it around turns. I only really use it other times because I'm not used to having the power yet and it is too easy for me to break the wheels loose in inclement weather without realizing it. I know what you mean about turning. It makes the car feel unpredictable.
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Jan 28, 2009 23:57
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Disciple of Pain posted:I will be focusing on 03-04 Outback Wagons with a 5sp. Good news is that all Outbacks from 2003-2006 have the cold weather package as standard. That means heated windshield, seats, mirrors, and... a rear LSD. You should buy my 99 Forester 5MT and ship it to Denver 
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Jan 29, 2009 00:09
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Fantastipotamus posted:Anyone else with an '07+ and the Subaru "traction control" feel like it's hinderance? When you're going at slow speeds, and you turn, you tend to understeer, so you gas it to bring the back end around and pull the front in line.. Well the car then realizes your tires are spinning and puts the brakes back on for you Believe I know how rewarding (and fun) it is to steer with the gas pedal in bad conditions, but lets think about this for a moment from a safety perspective. If your fronts are slipping to the point where you are understeering, that's just a sign that you need to slow down even further. Yes, you can correct the angle of the car by causing a slip condition in the rear, but at that point you now have 4 wheels that have no traction. Yes, it may be controllable, yes it may be your current instinct, but it's not really the safe response to the situation. Inexperienced driver instinct will also tell them to gas it in the same situation (hey my wheel is pointed in one direction but i'm not going there i should stab the gas to really tell the car to turn), but without the TC, they would be likely to swap ends or go sideways into a curb. Alternatively, instinct may tell them to jab the brakes too which could also cause the rear to swing around. I suspect the TC would react to that modulating braking pressure to keep the back end from coming around and allowing the fronts to dig in and grip again. Just realize that the main goal of TC is to not let you upset the attitude of the car suddenly. Yeah, it can be annoying when you are looking to hang the back end out there a bit around slick corners, but it's really just trying to get you to slow down overall and keep you from spinning the car.
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Jan 29, 2009 00:25
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MMD3 posted:the problem was it was only like a half inch and right hovering around freezing so it was basically just covered in slick slush, I more or less hydroplaned from what I can tell. It's still something that would have been greatly helped by better tires. Even on an AWD, tires are incredibly important and should not be skimped on or neglected.
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Jan 29, 2009 01:28
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Oh dear, Is it bad that I now feel the urge to find a frozen lake? Made worse by the fact I live in Florida... Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.
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Jan 29, 2009 02:42
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toplitzin posted:Oh dear, Is it bad that I now feel the urge to find a frozen lake? Made worse by the fact I live in Florida... As a fellow Floridian I know how you feel. We need to form a support group for Subaru owners that live in Florida  .Also, sweet bugeye!
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Jan 29, 2009 02:54
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Hey guys look what I got!    Its a "stealth TBE" as described by the seller. All one piece, custom made with a stock STI muffler. It came off his 2004 WRX. Im pretty sure it will fit fine. Seems ok, and he said it was fairly quiet. It was off the car already, so I diddnt get to hear it. But I think itll be fine, and for the price (275 WITH a complete set of WRX struts with 70k on them) I cant complain. Any advice on how to go about it? This is my first exhaust install. I want to clean up and repaint the muffler flat black. Also, I think I should get the long kartboy hangers. Other than that, Im hoping it just goes right on. This is going on (i hope) a 2004 Forester XT. Cant wait till this weekend!  OH and I want to drive my car in snow SO drat BAD. Stupid florida. But at least its gotten cold enough to use my heated seats! Best things ever. hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jan 29, 2009 |
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Jan 29, 2009 06:38
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Hey guys, I'm looking at picking up a first gen impreza outback sport - with the 2.2, 96 and later - is there a good web page buying guide\what should I look out for? I'm going with the automatic. Should I be concerned with high miles on these cars - they seem fairly solid.
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Jan 29, 2009 09:42
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cars101.com
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Jan 29, 2009 10:22
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Bob Sapp Please posted:As a fellow Floridian I know how you feel. We need to form a support group for Subaru owners that live in Florida "Wait ... that thing's got four-wheel drive? Can you take it mudding?" "Is that a Camry?" "Is that an Altima?" "I thought those cars were Australian." "But it doesn't snow down here." "Why's the radiator on top of the engine?" 
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Jan 29, 2009 17:05
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Bud Manstrong posted:"Wait ... that thing's got four-wheel drive? Can you take it mudding?" I vacation in Florida every year and I can attest to stuff like this. Just this December I had half a parking lot gawking at my muffler (its the HKS Hi-Power so it is a pretty drat big muffler.) Some lady walked into another car while looking at it and walking. Hilarious. What really gets me though is, theres absolutely no Subarus down there. At first I thought it was because they were AWD, but theres TONS of raised AWD asphalt queen trucks no matter where you look so that cant be it. I saw one Subaru the past 2-3 years down there. I gave him the "Subaru buddy wave" like we all normally do here in Chicago (yeah, we're cool like that) and the guy gave me a weird look and took off, probably thought I was gay. Oh well, atleast my car finally turned a lot of heads. Ha.
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Jan 29, 2009 17:11
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BannedForLulz posted:I vacation in Florida every year and I can attest to stuff like this. Just this December I had half a parking lot gawking at my muffler (its the HKS Hi-Power so it is a pretty drat big muffler.) Some lady walked into another car while looking at it and walking. Hilarious. We sure don't have this problem in Colorado. Almost everyone either has owned a Subaru or knows someone who currently does.
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Jan 29, 2009 17:55
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charliecantsurf posted:Hey guys, I'm looking at picking up a first gen impreza outback sport - with the 2.2, 96 and later - is there a good web page buying guide\what should I look out for? I'm going with the automatic. Should I be concerned with high miles on these cars - they seem fairly solid. There are no major problems with those cars and they are as reliable as any other passenger car. The EJ22 is a fantastic motor and the automatic, though boring and revvy on the highway, is a solid transmission.
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Jan 29, 2009 19:41
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Any of you first gen Legacy Outback owners have experience with a blown head gasket? My '98 Outback began to overheat on the way back from a ski trip... of course this had to happen on a deserted back road, but I digress. The first thing I saw when I opened the hood was a mixture of frothy, bubbly coolant spilling out of its overflow bottle attached to the radiator. Neat! There was a distinct smell of gasoline coming from the overflow tank. After a few minutes of grumbling and mumbling while the engine cooled off, i siphoned the coolant back into the radiator, and idled the car, making sure that all the hoses were circulating properly. I was able to drive another 10 minutes home without pegging the needle on H again. More than likely, its a gasket leak that's forcing exhaust gas into the coolant lines and pushing coolant out of the system. Has anyone else been victim to the dreaded Subaru HG failure? I must admit, I've driven this car into the ground over the years (130,000 miles), and I'm sure that there will be more that needs fixing in the future. I just had to get a right wheel bearing replaced, new cats, and a new fueling pipe installed. On top of that, I'm not sure how much damage I did to the cylinders from the heat buildup. The oil itself seems to be fine, but I might replace it soon just in case the heat broke it down at all. For those that have replaced their HG, how much did you pay, and what else did you replace along with it (i.e. waterpump, timing belt). I want to keep this car alive, but I can't justify paying more than $1000 to keep it running, it seems to me like it's no more than a ticking time bomb at this point. Any suggestions?
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Jan 29, 2009 22:12
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mental_abortion posted:For those that have replaced their HG, how much did you pay, and what else did you replace along with it (i.e. waterpump, timing belt). I want to keep this car alive, but I can't justify paying more than $1000 to keep it running, it seems to me like it's no more than a ticking time bomb at this point. Any suggestions? I had the head gasket on my drivers side blow on my 02 2.5RS. It cost me like 1100 to fix it and they did the timing belt and replaced some other poo poo when they were in there.
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Jan 30, 2009 00:28
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Ok, time to play "How hosed am I?" or maybe "How badly is the dealer going to bend me over?" I have noises. They may be getting worse, or maybe a better description is they change once and awhile. I had hopes that once I changed my front brakes, the noises would magically vanish, but I knew deep down that they wouldn't. The first thing to understand is there is virtually noise when there's no load. If I'm coasting in neutral with the clutch out or in gear with the clutch in, the only noise I hear is a very subtle scraping/rubbing/friction sound. If I rev the engine in neutral or with the clutch in, everything sounds fine. The noise is directly proportional to speed. When I'm accelerating, the scraping/rubbin/friction sound is worse. Occasionally, there will be a buzzing/ratcheting type of sound that comes in and out. If I'm just maintaining speed, it flutters in and out as the car goes in and out of load. When I'm under a deceleration load, the friction sound is greatly lessened. However, I have a TICK TICK TICK TICK on deceleration. It, too, is proportional to wheel speed, but the speed of the tick doesn't seem like it corresponds directly to the speed of any part I can think of. At 10mph, the tick is about once per second and goes faster as the speed is faster. It doesn't matter what gear I'm in, the frequency of the tick stays with speed only. Like I said, put it in neutral or push in the clutch and it stops. The tick is a rather recent phenomenon, it only started in the last week. The rest has been going on for months. Otherwise, everything is fine. No weird vibrations, transmission feels just the same, there's nothing else amiss. So, wheel bearing? Front differential? Transmission? Something else? Before I take it to the dealer, point at the car, and say "Make it quiet!", I would like to know approximately how bad I will be hurting.
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Jan 30, 2009 04:59
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I'd be leaning toward a wheel bearing. Does the noise change in volume if you turn the wheel hard left or right at speed?
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Jan 30, 2009 05:01
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8ender posted:I'd be leaning toward a wheel bearing. Does the noise change in volume if you turn the wheel hard left or right at speed? Nope, it pretty much remains constant. The only influence on the noise at all is speed. The wheels themselves feel sold, no play at all if you grab them and try to wiggle them. How much does a dealer charge to do a wheel bearing job?
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Jan 30, 2009 05:04
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CV joint? As for the headgaskets, they went on my 98 2.5gt. Then I replaced them and did a bunch of other service/maintenance and my car is awesome now. I keep hearing that it is more likely than not that it will happen to older 2.5s. All I have to say is that I'm really, really glad I didn't have to pay someone to do it. Oh also I put on a whiteline rear swaybar today. My car doesn't really understeer much anymore. It's set on full soft until I get the right bushings for the front bar. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Jan 30, 2009 |
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Jan 30, 2009 08:32
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bull3964 posted:How much does a dealer charge to do a wheel bearing job? I had our local tire shop throw a bearing in for me for around $200. It job itself requires a hydraulic press and an alignment afterwards which is why its best to leave it to a shop unless you're well equipped. However if the noise isn't changing appreciatively when turning the car I'd hesitate to just go out and start banging in bearings. What I found out when I had the local shop do the bearing is that some shops have wireless vibration/noise sensors now that they can stick on the car when they take it out for a test drive. They used one on mine to verify it was the right front before they did the work. Its pretty neat.
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Jan 30, 2009 13:21
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The thing I've found about wheel bearings is that they can make a wide array of noises depending on how they are damaged. The only real thing to listen to is if it changes directly according to speed, or under braking. As for CV joints, they will usually make a distinct clicking/popping noise, but more so only when they wheel is turned while moving, so my bet is on the wheel bearing. Get under the car and check the CV boots for any tears if you can. There's a chance it could also be a dragging brake pad or a warped rotor. Either way, I would take it to a shop before you drive it too much longer, damaged wheel bearings can seize from heat if they are driven on too long if that is the case. jamal posted:As for the headgaskets, they went on my 98 2.5gt. Then I replaced them and did a bunch of other service/maintenance and my car is awesome now. I keep hearing that it is more likely than not that it will happen to older 2.5s. All I have to say is that I'm really, really glad I didn't have to pay someone to do it. I like to think that I have a decent knowledge of cars, but I doubt I'm mechanically inclined enough to replace them myself. I can only wish. mental_abortion fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jan 30, 2009 |
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Jan 30, 2009 16:17
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mental_abortion posted:The thing I've found about wheel bearings is that they can make a wide array of noises depending on how they are damaged. The only real thing to listen to is if it changes directly according to speed, or under braking. As for CV joints, they will usually make a distinct clicking/popping noise, but more so only when they wheel is turned while moving, so my bet is on the wheel bearing. Get under the car and check the CV boots for any tears if you can. Is it a motor-pull to replace the headgaskets on these boxers? Is it a lot easier to just do a motor pull or no?
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Jan 30, 2009 17:49
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you can technically do it with the motor in the car, but not easily. It doesn't take that long to just pull the motor out, and if you're doing other seals and maintenance at the same time it makes it much easier.
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Jan 30, 2009 18:37
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