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jamal posted:you can technically do it with the motor in the car, but not easily. It doesn't take that long to just pull the motor out, and if you're doing other seals and maintenance at the same time it makes it much easier. Thats what I would think. Front and rear seal, timing belt, head gaskets seem like they'd all be much easier with the motor sitting on a stand. On some cars it is such a pain in the rear end to pull the motor though, it wouldn't be worth it.
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# ? Jan 30, 2009 19:19 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 17:44 |
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Hell I have a hard enough time as it is just changing the plugs on this drat boxer engine. I'm still toying around with the idea of just getting rid of the thing and looking for a new(er) car. I love this car but it's not really loving me back at the moment.
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# ? Jan 30, 2009 19:41 |
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Disciple of Pain posted:Thats what I would think. Front and rear seal, timing belt, head gaskets seem like they'd all be much easier with the motor sitting on a stand. Timing belt is easy as pie with the engine in the car. In fact the boxer is probably the only engine I've even felt it worth my time to do the timing belt on. All the other cars I've owned had the timing belt in an insane location.
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# ? Jan 30, 2009 21:39 |
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BannedForLulz posted:I vacation in Florida every year and I can attest to stuff like this. Just this December I had half a parking lot gawking at my muffler (its the HKS Hi-Power so it is a pretty drat big muffler.) Some lady walked into another car while looking at it and walking. Hilarious. Not a whole lot of subarus (WRX/STi's) outside of the bigger Florida cities. Not a whole lot of anything mentionable outside of aforementioned cities except for a whole lot of too-big pickup trucks and buicks and cadillacs. I drive a new Civic Si and I'm always on the look-out for others in my town (naturally,) and there are exactly two including mine. Travel an hour north to Orlando, and there are countless Si's and 4 or 5 Mugen Si's. Plenty of WRX STi's as well (but still not TOO many, since it's considerably a niche vehicle.)
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# ? Feb 1, 2009 03:24 |
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Finally got my crop on, here's an outside look at my new baby. And I'm still not able to play with it pending a fix to running only 9 psi.
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# ? Feb 1, 2009 09:46 |
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I took a few more aftermath shots of my car now that I've sort of evaluated what I managed to gently caress up. this has me concerned at the moment, I don't think that's normal camber is it? I'm looking for a good body shop in Portland to drop it by. The tire shop said it looked like maybe a control arm or knuckle? I don't really know what i'm looking at. The car is driving fine though, no wobble or serious pull. and here's how I managed to F up every single panel on the front end of my car in one go, can you spot the damage?
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# ? Feb 1, 2009 23:30 |
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I've been thinking of getting another Subaru for my next car. My current one is shite (Passat,) and I have fond memories of my past two Subarus, even though they weren't anything special ('92 Legacy L wagon and '97 Legacy 2.5L GT) I would still be driving that second one if I didn't get rear-ended by some jerk in a truck. It was totaled. I made a big mistake and went with a crappy Passat. It has been nothing but trouble, but it's almost paid off, and when I get my tax return, it will be completely paid off and I can sell it or trade it in and get... A WRX! Maybe...Some sort of Impreza, that's for sure. I did a cursory search and there aren't a lot of used WRXs for sale around here, probably because Subarus are VERY popular around here and people like to hang on to the nicer ones till they die for good. But, at any rate, what are some things I should be on the lookout for? I am looking for 2002-2005 models, because they are in my price range. What things are prone to failure I shold ask the dealer/seller about? Any "essential" upgrades I might want to think about?
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 05:07 |
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If you can pad a few more bucks, get a 2006, with the 2.5L turbo Torks! Oh and also don't forget the 9-2x, which is a WRX trying to look like a SAAB. They tend to be really cheap. They also had the STi steering rack and some extra options.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 05:51 |
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Here's a bit that I posted in another place when someone needed help with Subaru buying information:quote:The 2002-2003 WRX (Bugeye):
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 06:27 |
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yeah, when WRX shopping, if at all possible get an 06-07. They got a bunch of nice upgrades over the 02-05 like the extra displacement, avcs, better brakes, more aluminum suspension parts, etc. For 08-09, the GT badge applies to 09 automatics, which I think still have a TD04. For 09 the WRX is the 5-speed with a VF52. The VF52 is basically a VF48 (sti turbo) with a compressor cover to suit the intercooler and plastic intake manifold. We're seeing 300whp with stage 2 mods on the 09, where with an 02-08 you're lucky to get 230. Suspension and swaybars were also stiffened up slightly, it got summer tires instead of RE-92s, and the front seats have red WRX stitching like the old school GCs. Additionally, the 08-09 wrx does not have a rear LSD due to the traction control system or something, and they're back to a steel hood and suspension links. Even so they're a good 200 lb lighter than the GD. MMD3, find one of those alignment places that does free alignment checks. pep-boys, firestone, etc might do it. If there's more than 1.5-2 degrees of negative camber in the rear something may be bent (it looks like the strut) jamal fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Feb 3, 2009 |
# ? Feb 3, 2009 06:30 |
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atomicfire posted:The automatic version actually has the more "intelligent" AWD system because it uses a viscus center differential versus open diffs all around for the 5 speed. I do know that the automatic can vary the front/rear torque split, however. I'm not really bright so I'm not going to pretend I understand how all that works.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 08:03 |
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yep. The 5-speed is a purely mechanical awd system, so the front and rear get an equal split of torque until there's a speed difference and the viscous coupling adds resistance. Some of the 5-speeds have a rear transfer reduction ratio of 45:55 to give a bit of rear bias. The older 4eats had a set of transfer clutches that would lock up dependent of throttle position, gear selection, wheel speed, and a few other variables. So cruising around it would be 90% front drive, but could transfer some power rearward. Under extreme conditions, such as the front wheels on ice and the rear on pavement, it can't transfer all the car's power, but it generally works really well. The fact that it locks up the clutches before wheel slip is a great feature, and the awd on my old 93 legacy was way better than what's on my mom's brand new rav-4. Newer automatics have a system called VTD. Instead of the clutch pack it uses a planetary gear system that creates a rear bias and allows more transfer of power to the front or rear. I can't really explain it much better than that because I've had a hard time finding any real technical details about it. The STi 6-speed and some older JDM 5-speeds have DCCD. This starts out with a rear-biased center diff and adds electro-magnetic clutch packs to limit slip. In auto mode, the system will use throttle, steering, wheel speed, a yaw sensor, g-sensors, and probably a few other things I'm forgetting to determine lockup. Generally more throttle and less steering angle means more lockup. Using the manual mode you can move the diff from full open to full lock. How much lock full lock actually means is something I wonder about all the center diffs, but the dccd will create enough to cause hopping and binding in low speed turns on pavement similar to a 4x4. It's recommended in the manual to not use full lock on pavement. For 06 a helical lsd was somehow added to the clutches but I'm not exactly sure how all that works together. jamal fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Feb 3, 2009 |
# ? Feb 3, 2009 08:47 |
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Can anyone who looked at the photos of my wreck explain fundamentally if it could have been caused in part due to my inexperience in handling AWD cars in slick conditions. I'm trying to figure out what learnings I can take away from this and I can't help but think if I'd been driving my RWD car that I was more familiar with it would have reacted completely differently (well I guess that's a no-duh). I think if anything I would have maybe spun out but I wouldn't have lost traction in all 4 wheels and done a 4 tire skid like I did.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 09:03 |
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I think we told you to buy new tires. edit: Also in my experience you have to use the gas sometimes. It's instinct to hit the brakes but they don't do a lot of good on ice. When it snowed here in December I found an open parking lot to try and see all the different things that I could do. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Feb 3, 2009 |
# ? Feb 3, 2009 09:08 |
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subaru awd is fantastic when you've got your foot down. While turning and stopping it doesn't do quite as much. So, if you want to take advantage of it, you need to use the throttle and not the brake. When you do they will go whichever way you point them. It's wonderful. One of the things that all cars will do to some extent is snap oversteer when you lift suddenly or brake in a corner. This is because the weight transfers forward off the rear tires very suddenly. Generally the last thing you want to do is jam on the brakes. When you do this you'll just keep going in whatever direction you were starting to slide, or start spinning, regardless of the car or drivetrain layout. In your case, however, it looks like you just went into the corner too fast for the conditions/your tires, and went right off the road. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Feb 3, 2009 |
# ? Feb 3, 2009 09:18 |
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jamal posted:subaru awd is fantastic when you've got your foot down. While turning and stopping it doesn't do quite as much. So, if you want to take advantage of it, you need to use the throttle and not the brake. When you do they will go whichever way you point them. It's wonderful. I'm sure this is pretty common-sense stuff for you guys but it helps me understand it quite a bit. I'm sure the tires and my speed were definite factors but I certainly slammed on the breaks quite a ways back in anticipation of the corner. I think I figured the ABS would do everything for me and most likely panicked and over steered. I distinctly remember seeing the other car in the ditch and thinking "oshit, brake brake brake" before sliding a good 10 yards.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 10:45 |
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jamal posted:yeah, when WRX shopping, if at all possible get an 06-07. They got a bunch of nice upgrades over the 02-05 like the extra displacement, avcs, better brakes, more aluminum suspension parts, etc. Fixed... The 48 is what is on my LGT. The 38 is what came on the STi, IIRC.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 12:24 |
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MMD3 posted:Can anyone who looked at the photos of my wreck explain fundamentally if it could have been caused in part due to my inexperience in handling AWD cars in slick conditions. Tires tires tires. Not every all-season tire is created equal. Hell some aren't even that good in the dry. I put my car in the ditch with crappy tires just like yours. In hindsight I should have known better because they had taken on the consistency of hockey pucks in the cold weather. As for AWD, a little gas can't hurt, and its the only way you're going to take advantage of all four wheels getting torque. My driving style in the snow now involves a little more throttle since I've started driving my Subaru this year. Practice giving it some beans around a tight corner to oversteer the car in the right direction. Its fun and useful. jamal posted:The older 4eats had a set of transfer clutches that would lock up dependent of throttle position, gear selection, wheel speed, and a few other variables. So cruising around it would be 90% front drive, but could transfer some power rearward. I may be wrong on this, but as far as I can tell from the Subaru documents the 4EAT will start or switch to a 20-80 rear bias if you punch it, settle in to a 90 - 10 front bias when you're cruising, and lock it around 50 - 50 if you're spinning the fronts and back. What it does the rest of the time I'm not sure but it does take a little getting used to your car going from RWD to FWD to AWD in slippery conditions. It also apparently locks 50-50 in the Reverse, 2nd and 1st gear selector. Its also tons of fun to do donuts and feel the 4EAT having a poo poo fit trying to compensate 8ender fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Feb 3, 2009 |
# ? Feb 3, 2009 13:07 |
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Chunderbuss posted:Beautiful car. Also, please send me your wheels.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 15:25 |
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MMD3 posted:I'm sure this is pretty common-sense stuff for you guys but it helps me understand it quite a bit. I'm sure the tires and my speed were definite factors but I certainly slammed on the breaks quite a ways back in anticipation of the corner. I think I figured the ABS would do everything for me and most likely panicked and over steered. I distinctly remember seeing the other car in the ditch and thinking "oshit, brake brake brake" before sliding a good 10 yards. You MIGHT have been able to do a bit of a scandinavian flick (mad tyte drifto), but if you're lacking some real skill (espcially given the tires), it likely would have just resulted in your car wrapping around that tree. tires are everything in the snow.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 17:58 |
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ssjonizuka posted:Fixed... The 48 is what is on my LGT. The 38 is what came on the STi, IIRC. The 04-06 STi's use the VF39 turbo, the 07 STi's use the VF43 turbo. They're basically the same turbocharger, except the 43 has a redeseigned wastegate. The new 08's use some silly VF48, which was based on the LGT. MMD3 posted:Can anyone who looked at the photos of my wreck explain fundamentally if it could have been caused in part due to my inexperience in handling AWD cars in slick conditions. I'm trying to figure out what learnings I can take away from this and I can't help but think if I'd been driving my RWD car that I was more familiar with it would have reacted completely differently (well I guess that's a no-duh). I think if anything I would have maybe spun out but I wouldn't have lost traction in all 4 wheels and done a 4 tire skid like I did. If you lost it in a AWD car, don't let off the gas or god fobid hit the brakes. Nail the throttle and steer where you want to go.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 19:25 |
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atomicfire posted:The 04-06 STi's use the VF39 turbo, the 07 STi's use the VF43 turbo. They're basically the same turbocharger, except the 43 has a redeseigned wastegate. judging by this photo, yeah... I didn't accelerate/turn out of it, I just slammed the brakes.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 20:59 |
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cmorrow001 posted:Beautiful car. Also, please send me your wheels. Cheers, I'll chuck up some stupid huge pictures onto a friend's server if anyone wants, or maybe some interior photos if the yard will actually fix my boost problem, they've had it almost two weeks now, and I'm getting sick of the G1 Nissan Cube they gave me as a replacement, it's about as far from an STi as you can get! Apparently there's a long list of things they have to trial and error to work out why my wastegate is bleeding everything above 9psi. Strange thing about the wheels, the STi wagons didn't get the same wheels as the sedan due to not needing to clear the Brembo brakes, so they got the (thinner) wheels off the Legacy B4 instead, shouldn't be hard to source!
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 21:18 |
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MMD3 posted:judging by this photo, yeah... I didn't accelerate/turn out of it, I just slammed the brakes. For the better. In the accelerate after straightening out scenario, if you didn't nail it and get grip you woulda slammed into the back of that Mazday thing.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 21:28 |
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kimbo305 posted:For the better. In the accelerate after straightening out scenario, if you didn't nail it and get grip you woulda slammed into the back of that Mazday thing. Given your tires and the stuff around you, two feet in really was the best choice. Any other, you might have svaed it or you might be shopping for a new car.
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 21:46 |
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Alright, a follow up question: What are the main differences between an Impreza WRX, RS, STi, and i models?
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# ? Feb 3, 2009 22:51 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:Alright, a follow up question: RS is the older 01 and earlier models..no turbo i believe. wrx is turbo'd with more hp, a mini sti basically sti is a 'street legal' rally car in easy terms. 300hp~ awd curb stomper. edit: I just read your first post. What is your price range. This has a lot to do with it. STi will have more expensive insurance for sure. You should be able to get an 08 sti at a high volume dealer for $27K with zero % financing if you have good credit, 700 or higher supposedly. Ignore the 08 WRX completly. its pretty much poo poo. the 09 wrx is a 260hp beast for the price..im curious what the next sti will be powered at. 06-07 wrx's are pretty nice, and 90% of the parts are interchangeable between 04-07 version vehicles, including STi's, except 05+ sti rims wont fit. most common first upgrades for any of the cars are a turbo back 3 inch exhaust and engine reflash to 'stage 2' through either open source tuning, or an accessport. You can get a ton of lightly used parts off nasioc for cheap. For under $1000 I'm running a 'stage 2' wrx, which is a 3 inch downpipe, a 3 inch exhaust. I also have an intercooler that is twice the size of the factory version. Before the end of the year<a lot sooner I hope>, I plan on getting a new turbo and a professional tune done at a shop. After that, I'll focus on the suspension to get a tighter ride. That'll probably be the most I do.I don't plan on racing or autocrossing it, so meh. Close to STi performance for a lot cheaper. As long as you dont beat on the transmission doing 5K cluthdumps, itll be fine. Lando fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Feb 4, 2009 |
# ? Feb 4, 2009 00:08 |
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MMD3 posted:judging by this photo, yeah... I didn't accelerate/turn out of it, I just slammed the brakes. oh...that kind of corner there really isn't hope for much except grab the steering wheel and pray. Nothing you could have done would have pulled you out of that one. Glad to see you didn't get hurt though. Lando posted:RS is the older 01 and earlier models..no turbo i believe. Yep, you got it right on. The most basic way of breaking it down: RS = No turbo WRX = RS with small turbo STi = WRX with bigger small turbo and suspension upgrades. The 09+ WRX's are seeing 300 wheel hp with just an exhaust and tune, which previously only the STi could do. Yeah I agree the 08 WRX is just basically a waste of time\money unless you're specifically looking for the sedan model, which was relabeled into the Impreza GT on the 09's and on. atomicfire fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Feb 4, 2009 |
# ? Feb 4, 2009 00:57 |
atomicfire posted:The 09+ WRX's are seeing 300 wheel hp with just an exhaust and tune, which previously only the STi could do. Yeah I agree the 08 WRX is just basically a waste of time\money unless you're specifically looking for the sedan model, which was relabeled into the Impreza GT on the 09's and on. What? You can get an '09 WRX Sedan. You only get stuck with the GT if you want an automatic.
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 01:52 |
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Mr. Powers posted:What? You can get an '09 WRX Sedan. You only get stuck with the GT if you want an automatic. Oops...my bad, I wasn't aware you could get the 09 WRX's as sedans.
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 01:58 |
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For the first time I saw another 9-2x on the road, silver just like mine. He got in the lane next to me honked and waved and I waved back. It was funny, when he started to pass me I thought "what a slick looking car" before realizing it was the same thing!
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 03:35 |
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MMD3 posted:Can anyone who looked at the photos of my wreck explain fundamentally if it could have been caused in part due to my inexperience in handling AWD cars in slick conditions. Or, you could be totally irresponsible and throw it into a pendulum turn. At that point, you're giving up the known (a ditch) for the unknown (possibly a clean exit, possibly sideswiping a pedestrian). It's not the safest option, but if that ditch had been a 100 foot drop, you'll want all the options you can get. Just remember that AWD doesn't make you immune to weather.
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 04:49 |
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Or, you could be totally irresponsible and throw it into a pendulum turn. At that point, you're giving up the known (a ditch) for the unknown (possibly a clean exit, possibly sideswiping a pedestrian). It's not the safest option, but if that ditch had been a 100 foot drop, you'll want all the options you can get. A better driver than me should chime in, but I don't think a pendulum turn would work when the cause of sliding is glare ice and bad tires. There'd be nothing for the front tires to grip into even if they got weight transfer.
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 05:02 |
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ssjonizuka posted:Fixed... The 48 is what is on my LGT. The 38 is what came on the STi, IIRC. no. The LGT turbo is the VF40 or VF46. The 08 sti has a VF48. I think other years of 08s had VF39s and VF43s. The VF48 is not some silly turbo based on the LGT. The sti still uses the older style top mount intercooler and compressor outlet, and the turbo is an updated version of the 43. Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Contrast that with an RWD car (or an STI with the DCCD set to sent 80% of the torque to the rear ), where you can stomp the gas to break the rear end loose and change your trajectory. That's not actually technically correct. When you set dccd to "rear," it's actually set to full open. So, for an 04-05, for example, this means a 35:65 rear torque bias. And that is the bias, period, and it doesn't change. However, since you have a rearward bias, the rear tires will spin first, allowing you to do some nice power-oversteering action. With dccd not open, the torque bias will actually change dependant on slip and %lockup. So at full lock you could have almost a 100:0 or 0:100 front:rear bias depending on traction. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Feb 4, 2009 |
# ? Feb 4, 2009 05:18 |
Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Contrast that with an RWD car (or an STI with the DCCD set to sent 80% of the torque to the rear ), where you can stomp the gas to break the rear end loose and change your trajectory. My 2009 WRX with snow tires will break the rear out really easily if I turn off traction control. I don't think it is excessively rear-biased either. It still understeers like a bitch if you don't counteract it, but just a little bit of gas will bring the rear around.
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 07:00 |
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jamal posted:no. The LGT turbo is the VF40 or VF46. The 08 sti has a VF48. I think other years of 08s had VF39s and VF43s. With the DCCD locked, regardless of the year STi the car will maintain a 50/50 torque split at the most. The design of the center diff makes it impossible to have a 100/0 or 0/100 torque split unless you weld it to make it 100/0 or 0/100 like Team Orange. With the DCCD open, as you said, the torque split is 35/65 f/r for the 04-05's. The 06+ has a more even torque split, I forget what it was.
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 07:42 |
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An open differential has a 50:50 torque split all the time (barring some reduction ratio). A locked differential has a torque split that is dependent on traction. Think about it this way. You set the dccd to full lock, and the front tires are on a surface with 0 traction, and the rear tires are on pavement. With the locked differential, all the torque goes to the rear wheels. The torque bias is dependant on the traction, since the motor cannot produce torque without an equal amount of resistance from the tires. So, all the resistance is done by the rear tires, none is done by the front, and so the torque split is 0:100. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Feb 4, 2009 |
# ? Feb 4, 2009 07:44 |
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jamal posted:Think about it this way. You set the dccd to full lock, and the front tires are on a surface with 0 traction, and the rear tires are on pavement. Nope, still only 50% of the torque goes to the rear wheels even if there were no reaction to the front wheels. You're thinking about power, not torque. If the front wheels don't have traction, they are not utilizing any of the power, which you would be correct, 100% of the power is going to the rear wheels. The torque split by the center differential isn't determined by traction, its determined by the clutch pack in the center diff. With the clutch pack off, the torque split is determined by the planetary gearset; with the clutch on, it is determined by the duty cycle of the clutch pack controlled either by the dial or the dccd computer.
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 07:55 |
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jamal posted:
With the diff locked, the torque will go 50:50, no matter what the surface front or rear on. It's exactly the same for any diff. What the 50:50 will mean is that your front wont bite, but your rear will and hence you will get going. Even if the front had utterly no traction at all, 50% will still go there. That's what diff locking is all about. Atomicfire has it correct quote:The 06+ has a more even torque split, I forget what it was. 41:59
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 08:14 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 17:44 |
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notice how in my example the diff is at full lock? And yes, with a completely locked diff the torque is sent to the wheels with traction. you guys seem not to understand how differentials work.
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# ? Feb 4, 2009 08:14 |