jamal posted:

you can technically do it with the motor in the car, but not easily. It doesn't take that long to just pull the motor out, and if you're doing other seals and maintenance at the same time it makes it much easier.

Disciple of Pain posted:

Thats what I would think. Front and rear seal, timing belt, head gaskets seem like they'd all be much easier with the motor sitting on a stand.

BannedForLulz posted:

I vacation in Florida every year and I can attest to stuff like this. Just this December I had half a parking lot gawking at my muffler (its the HKS Hi-Power so it is a pretty drat big muffler.) Some lady walked into another car while looking at it and walking. Hilarious.

What really gets me though is, theres absolutely no Subarus down there. At first I thought it was because they were AWD, but theres TONS of raised AWD asphalt queen trucks no matter where you look so that cant be it. I saw one Subaru the past 2-3 years down there. I gave him the "Subaru buddy wave" like we all normally do here in Chicago (yeah, we're cool like that) and the guy gave me a weird look and took off, probably thought I was gay.

Oh well, atleast my car finally turned a lot of heads. Ha.

quote:

The 2002-2003 WRX (Bugeye):
Despite all the cries of "glass" transmission, they're actually very adequate if you don't do clutch dumps or otherwise abuse them. Drive it as you would any other daily driver and it'll hold up fine. This 5 speed transmission can hold up to around 275 wheel hp. The 4EAT automatic transmission is slow and sluggish though it will hold to around 300awhp. Rebuild kits are widely available and the valvebody mods really wake the transmission up and give it a much more sporty feel. This generation has the 2.0 liter engine with the round blob headlights. Parts are easy to find and most power parts like exhaust and downpipe are interchangeable with any other 2002-2007 WRX or STi and even the exhaust from the catalytic converter back is interchangeable with the N/A Impreza. The automatic version actually has the more "intelligent" AWD system because it uses a viscus center differential versus open diffs all around for the 5 speed.

The 2004-2005 WRX (Blobeye):
A revised body design with nearly identical drivetrain. The engine is still 2 liter with the same turbocharger. The 2004 has the older interior with the pop-out cupholder and lack of climate control, though basic A/C and heater controls are there. WRX's in this generation for the US market only came with standard headlights, not projectors and not HID's though proper (not ricer BLIND THE LIVING gently caress OUT OF YOU WITH MY BLUE LIGHT kits) retrofit kits are easy to come by. 2005 interior has the climate control with real cupholders in the center console making it feel less of a shitbox with a nice engine and tranny. The 5 speed transmission was "strengthened" though it still remains the weak point of the drivetrain. 4EAT automatic transmission remains the same. I think there was a change to the final drive also, but I'm not sure on that.

The 2006-2007 WRX (Hawkeye):
Revised body style yet again, with projector lights but no HID's and the controversial three-part front grill. Engine displacement gets a bump to 2.5 liters but the turbocharger remains the same, making for a very quick spooling fun package. Horsepower get a small bump to 224hp and the boost threshold and torque come up a lot quicker now because of the added displacement. Interior remains nearly identical to the 2005 model year with only very small changes like trunk passthrough and a cargo net behind the front seats.

The 2008 WRX (GR chassis):
Extremely controversial change to both hatchback and sedan bodystyle. Power output remains the same at 224hp but with a revised 5 speed transmission and a new 5EAT automatic transmission. It seems like they finally fixed the glassbox problems, but there hasn't been enough time to really tell if it's fixed for good. Interior was dramatically changed. Suddenly the car was transformed from a fast shitbox to a fast economy car. Make no mistake it's still a cheap car, but it no longer feels like the plastic was made from recycled Barbie dolls and Coke bottles. Trust me, it looks very nice now. Only drive one for a day and I already loved it. Revised engine tunes with AVCS (Subaru's variable valve timing) now brings the same 224 hp but with a dramatic powerband shift to the left. I like this generation, especially the hatchback, but so far it has proven very subjective. This generation significantly changes the drivetrain layout. Many power mods from the 2002-2007 WRX\STi will not fit the 2008+ chassis.

The 2009+ Impreza GT's and the 2008 WRX (GR Chassis)
Basically the 2008 WRX rebadged as the GT. I don't know too much about this generation.

The 2009+ WRX (GR Chassis)
A healthy bump in power to 264hp. Other than that I don't know much about this generation. Subaru renamed the 2008 WRX into the GT to make room for a more powerful WRX to counter the new Lancer Ralliart. I don't know too much about this generation.

If you want to get into the bigger brother, the STi can be had for pretty cheap now too. Recession fears have made the price plummet and you can get a new 2008 STi for 27k out the door.

2004 STi (Blobeye):
As with all USDM STi's, this one has a 2.5 liter engine with AVCS. The 6 speed is nearly indestructible, there are drag teams in Puerto Rico running 10 second STi's with the stock 6 speed. The first thing that tends to break on the driveline is the rear halfshafts, though you will only break them if you really really try. The stock setup is good for around 350hp, but at around 350lb-ft of torque the stock Exidy cluch will start slipping. An upgraded clutch later and the driveline is good for at least 500whp and 500lb-ft. The 2004 had the most aggressive tune of any year STi also. The interior sucked, having shared it with the 2004 Impreza and WRX. No climate control and no cupholder along with a cheap plastic interior made you feel like you were driving a giant Polly Pocket playset. The signature wing was standard. This year STi had a mechanically open center diff with DCCD lockup and a viscus limited SureTrac diff in the front and a clutch type rear LSD made by Nissan (R180). Wheel bolt pattern is 5x100 making wheel choices limited. Wheel bearings tend to go quickly if you autocross or track the car a lot. All STi's have beeft Brembo brakes all around.

2005 STi (Blobeye):
Same drivetrain layout but with 5x114.3 hubs instead of 5x100 which dramatically strengthened the wheel bearings. Major changes include slighly wider fenders on the rear wheel arches and much improved interior with climate control. Mechanically almost identical, except now includes clutch type LSD's on both the front and read. DCCD center diff remains mechanically open.

2006-2007 STi (Hawkeye):
Revised bodystyle though interior remains mostly the same. Controversial front bumper though a rear diffuser under the rear bumper and a smaller roof spoiler were added improving handling under high speed. Hood scoop made smaller and easiar to see over. The 6 speed now has longer gear ratios, allowing you to trap the quarter mile in 4th rather than having to shift into 5th and you can now reach 60mph in second gear. This netted a minor improvement on paper statistics even though power output remained unchanged. The driveline now has LSD's on all three differentials and the center differential now has a default power split of 41:59 front:rear versus the 35:65 of the 2004-2005's. 2007 STi's became subject to emissions regulations and as a result had a more advanced ECU and some emissions control equipment under the hood. The revised tune in the 2007 to clean up the engine made the engine behave strangely under certain conditions and as a result there were significantly more 2007's with blown otherwise stock engines. 2007 STi's are also very sensitive to power mods so plan mods with your tuner carefully. They're not as forgiving of people slapping on BOV's, exhausts, and intakes as previous generations were.

2008 STi (GR chassi):
I drove one and i'm one of the few that actually like it. The big controversy is that they now only come in hatchback, though thats okay with me because i have a sekit love of hatchbacks. I think they look sexy, just look at that rear end . Entirely new interior and exterior, obviously along with a healthy bump in MSRP. Interior was massively improved so now it actually feels like you're driving a $36000 car instead of a $10000 car with a 300hp engine stuck in it. Engine remains at 2.5 liters though a revised turbo and intercooler setup along with a revised tune again bump the power band way to the left. I was only allowed to take it around the block though. One thing to note the new computer allows for three driving profiles, Intelligent, Sport and Sport Sharp. I used to be a big proponent of using my right foot to control my driving profile but after driving with this I can see the appeal. As with the 2007 STi's, revised emissions regulations have made many 2008 STi's suffer an early engine death though the vast majority of them are covered under warranty. If purchasing a 2008 STi make sure to ask if the car had the engine service performaed on it if it falls within the STOP SALE order that Subaru put out.

If you're looking for used cars try http://www.nasioc.com http://www.iwsti.com and http://www.clubwrx.net these are all Subaru specific forums. I got very close to buying my STi from a nice guy on Nasioc, but would up getting it on eBay instead. If you're planning on buying it here are a few good points to check:

Look under the driver's dash under the hood release and look straight up behind the dash. You should see a few green connectors. If they're taped up with black tape in a neat bundle chances are the ECU was never flashed, as you need to finagle with those wires to enable flashing (2002-2005 WRX's need init connectors, 2006+ and STi's need to connect the test harness). Ask about oil consumption, Subaru engines have a tendency to eat oil. While it's perfectly normal for it to consume UP TO one quart between changes, its good to know the habits of the engine before you buy it. Check under the intercooler (anyone who owns a turbo Subaru knows how to get it off and on quickly) and look at the turbo downpipe and uppipe. There should be heatshields on both of them. If they're not there ask why, as often when removing the heatshields to do mod work the bolts holding them on just snap off. Remove the oil cap while the engine is idling and stick a notecard over it. If it flutters and makes a lot of buzzing noises while being blown away from the tube the ring lands on the engine are bad, either talk down the price about $3000 or run away quickly. Check the dashboard to make sure the check engine light still works. If the check engine light is on ask why, as the check engine light can come on if the cats were removed. That in itself is not a problem, but if the ECU was reflashed properly to conpensate for the lack of cats there should be NO check engine light as those codes can be turned off. Driving a decatted 2.5 liter WRX or STi can cause over-boosting and can quickly blow the motor. Look in the engine bay on the left right in front of the passenger side shock tower. Look at the boost control solenoid and make sure it hasn't been modified. Especially look for a manual or electronic boost controller. Subaru ECU's control boost directly and the addition of a electronic boost controller without a proper tune to take advantage of them can...you guessed it, blow the motor.

I'm a huge Subaru and Nissan nut so ask me anything. If I don't know I can find out for you.

atomicfire posted:

The automatic version actually has the more "intelligent" AWD system because it uses a viscus center differential versus open diffs all around for the 5 speed.

jamal posted:

subaru awd is fantastic when you've got your foot down. While turning and stopping it doesn't do quite as much. So, if you want to take advantage of it, you need to use the throttle and not the brake. When you do they will go whichever way you point them. It's wonderful.

One of the things that all cars will do to some extent is snap oversteer when you lift suddenly or brake in a corner. This is because the weight transfers forward off the rear tires very suddenly. Generally the last thing you want to do is jam on the brakes. When you do this you'll just keep going in whatever direction you were starting to slide, or start spinning, regardless of the car or drivetrain layout.

In your case, however, it looks like you just went into the corner too fast for the conditions/your tires, and went right off the road.

jamal posted:

yeah, when WRX shopping, if at all possible get an 06-07. They got a bunch of nice upgrades over the 02-05 like the extra displacement, avcs, better brakes, more aluminum suspension parts, etc.

For 08-09, the GT badge applies to 09 automatics, which I think still have a TD04. For 09 the WRX is the 5-speed with a VF52. The VF52 is basically a VF38 (sti turbo) with a compressor cover to suit the intercooler and plastic intake manifold. We're seeing 300whp with stage 2 mods on the 09, where with an 02-08 you're lucky to get 230. Suspension and swaybars were also stiffened up slightly, it got summer tires instead of RE-92s, and the front seats have red WRX stitching like the old school GCs. Additionally, the 08-09 wrx does not have a rear LSD due to the traction control system or something, and they're back to a steel hood and suspension links. Even so they're a good 200 lb lighter than the GD.


MMD3, find one of those alignment places that does free alignment checks. pep-boys, firestone, etc might do it. If there's more than 1.5-2 degrees of negative camber in the rear something may be bent (it looks like the strut)

MMD3 posted:

Can anyone who looked at the photos of my wreck explain fundamentally if it could have been caused in part due to my inexperience in handling AWD cars in slick conditions.

jamal posted:

The older 4eats had a set of transfer clutches that would lock up dependent of throttle position, gear selection, wheel speed, and a few other variables. So cruising around it would be 90% front drive, but could transfer some power rearward.

Chunderbuss posted:

MMD3 posted:

I'm sure this is pretty common-sense stuff for you guys but it helps me understand it quite a bit. I'm sure the tires and my speed were definite factors but I certainly slammed on the breaks quite a ways back in anticipation of the corner. I think I figured the ABS would do everything for me and most likely panicked and over steered. I distinctly remember seeing the other car in the ditch and thinking "oshit, brake brake brake" before sliding a good 10 yards.

ssjonizuka posted:

Fixed... The 48 is what is on my LGT. The 38 is what came on the STi, IIRC.

MMD3 posted:

Can anyone who looked at the photos of my wreck explain fundamentally if it could have been caused in part due to my inexperience in handling AWD cars in slick conditions. I'm trying to figure out what learnings I can take away from this and I can't help but think if I'd been driving my RWD car that I was more familiar with it would have reacted completely differently (well I guess that's a no-duh). I think if anything I would have maybe spun out but I wouldn't have lost traction in all 4 wheels and done a 4 tire skid like I did.

atomicfire posted:

The 04-06 STi's use the VF39 turbo, the 07 STi's use the VF43 turbo. They're basically the same turbocharger, except the 43 has a redeseigned wastegate.

The new 08's use some silly VF48, which was based on the LGT.


If you lost it in a AWD car, don't let off the gas or god fobid hit the brakes. Nail the throttle and steer where you want to go.

cmorrow001 posted:

Beautiful car. Also, please send me your wheels.

MMD3 posted:

judging by this photo, yeah... I didn't accelerate/turn out of it, I just slammed the brakes.

kimbo305 posted:

For the better. In the accelerate after straightening out scenario, if you didn't nail it and get grip you woulda slammed into the back of that Mazday thing.

DrBouvenstein posted:

Alright, a follow up question:
What are the main differences between an Impreza WRX, RS, STi, and i models?

MMD3 posted:

judging by this photo, yeah... I didn't accelerate/turn out of it, I just slammed the brakes.

Lando posted:

RS is the older 01 and earlier models..no turbo i believe.
wrx is turbo'd with more hp, a mini sti basically
sti is a 'street legal' rally car in easy terms. 300hp~ awd curb stomper.

edit: I just read your first post. What is your price range. This has a lot to do with it. STi will have more expensive insurance for sure. You should be able to get an 08 sti at a high volume dealer for $27K with zero % financing if you have good credit, 700 or higher supposedly.

Ignore the 08 WRX completly. its pretty much poo poo.
the 09 wrx is a 260hp beast for the price..im curious what the next sti will be powered at.

06-07 wrx's are pretty nice, and 90% of the parts are interchangeable between 04-07 version vehicles, including STi's, except 05+ sti rims wont fit.

most common first upgrades for any of the cars are a turbo back 3 inch exhaust and engine reflash to 'stage 2' through either open source tuning, or an accessport. You can get a ton of lightly used parts off nasioc for cheap.

For under $1000 I'm running a 'stage 2' wrx, which is a 3 inch downpipe, a 3 inch exhaust. I also have an intercooler that is twice the size of the factory version. Before the end of the year<a lot sooner I hope>, I plan on getting a new turbo and a professional tune done at a shop. After that, I'll focus on the suspension to get a tighter ride. That'll probably be the most I do.I don't plan on racing or autocrossing it, so meh. Close to STi performance for a lot cheaper. As long as you dont beat on the transmission doing 5K cluthdumps, itll be fine.

atomicfire posted:

The 09+ WRX's are seeing 300 wheel hp with just an exhaust and tune, which previously only the STi could do. Yeah I agree the 08 WRX is just basically a waste of time\money unless you're specifically looking for the sedan model, which was relabeled into the Impreza GT on the 09's and on.

Mr. Powers posted:

What? You can get an '09 WRX Sedan. You only get stuck with the GT if you want an automatic.

MMD3 posted:

Can anyone who looked at the photos of my wreck explain fundamentally if it could have been caused in part due to my inexperience in handling AWD cars in slick conditions.

Artemis J Brassnuts posted:

Or, you could be totally irresponsible and throw it into a pendulum turn. At that point, you're giving up the known (a ditch) for the unknown (possibly a clean exit, possibly sideswiping a pedestrian). It's not the safest option, but if that ditch had been a 100 foot drop, you'll want all the options you can get.

ssjonizuka posted:

Fixed... The 48 is what is on my LGT. The 38 is what came on the STi, IIRC.

Artemis J Brassnuts posted:

Contrast that with an RWD car (or an STI with the DCCD set to sent 80% of the torque to the rear ), where you can stomp the gas to break the rear end loose and change your trajectory.

Artemis J Brassnuts posted:

Contrast that with an RWD car (or an STI with the DCCD set to sent 80% of the torque to the rear ), where you can stomp the gas to break the rear end loose and change your trajectory.

jamal posted:

no. The LGT turbo is the VF40 or VF46. The 08 sti has a VF48. I think other years of 08s had VF39s and VF43s.

The VF48 is not some silly turbo based on the LGT. The sti still uses the older style top mount intercooler and compressor outlet, and the turbo is an updated version of the 43.


That's not actually technically correct. When you set dccd to "rear," it's actually set to full open. So, for an 04-05, for example, this means a 35:65 rear torque bias. And that is the bias, period, and it doesn't change. However, since you have a rearward bias, the rear tires will spin first, allowing you to do some nice power-oversteering action.

With dccd not open, the torque bias will actually change dependant on slip and %lockup. So at full lock you could have almost a 100:0 or 0:100 front:rear bias depending on traction.

jamal posted:

Think about it this way. You set the dccd to full lock, and the front tires are on a surface with 0 traction, and the rear tires are on pavement.

With the locked differential, all the torque goes to the rear wheels. The torque bias is dependant on the traction, since the motor cannot produce torque without an equal amount of resistance from the tires. So, all the resistance is done by the rear tires, none is done by the front, and so the torque split is 0:100.

jamal posted:

With the locked differential, all the torque goes to the rear wheels. The torque bias is dependant on the traction, since the motor cannot produce torque without an equal amount of resistance from the tires. So, all the resistance is done by the rear tires, none is done by the front, and so the torque split is 0:100.

quote:

The 06+ has a more even torque split, I forget what it was.