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TurboLuvah posted:There should be an absolute poo poo ton of Subarus in Pennsylvania as well, they're all over the North East. Any questions about shops in Pitssburgh seem to be unanswered or answered with dealers. This surprises me.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:30
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haha. It's a subaru thread, not an argue about differentials thread. I explained how they work clearly and accurately. If people want to go on not believing me they can, or just go look it up themselves. There used to be a fantastic write-up online about dccd and differentials, but it was on some guy's university hosting and apparantly doesn't exist anymore.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:33
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jamal posted:for 8 hours of dealer labor you can buy an entire used 5-speed and have a competent shop swap it in. Call Andretech in Gaithersburg, MD. They're possibly the best subaru transmission shop in the country. It's my DD and I have no way to get the transmission out of the car. A shop 225 miles away might as well be on the moon. Besides, I don't need a whole new transmission, that's the issue. My center diff is fried, that's it. If I can just find someone to replace the center diff and not want to replace the rest of the transmission, I will be golden.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:36
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so the car is completely undriveable? I would at least call them and ask if they can suggest somewhere in your area.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:40
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jamal posted:so the car is completely undriveable? No, it's not undrivable. However, I'm not sure how far to trust it now that I know what the problem is. If those gears DO decide to go haywire and completely give up the ghost, the center diff could freeze up completely and then I likely will have a mess on my hands outside of the transfer extension. I'm pretty much limiting my driving right now to "getting it to the place where it's going to get repaired." I have my doubts that it would last 4 hours of highway driving. I'm fine till the end of the weekend, but I'm not going to continue to ask my boss to pick me up on his way in to work past tomorrow. The bigger issue right now for drivability is it has started leaking gear oil out between one of the exhaust hanger bolts that's attached to the transfer extension. I haven't been able to determine the rate of the leak yet, so I'm a little leery of it running too low and actually doing damage to the transmission proper. I have half a mind to just buy a new drat 2009 and park my 2002 until it warms up and I have time to yank the transfer extension off myself and just take it somewhere to get rebuilt. Fortunately, the dealers are helping me there as well as no one has anything other than a few sedans in stock.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:51
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well, as long as there's some fluid in the transmission I don't see things suddenly seizing up. The center diff failures I've heard about are mostly just the viscous coupling. It will do one of two things: lock up and cause torque bind in slow speed corners, or just stop resisting and speed differences.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:59
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jamal posted:
It's gone beyond that I think at this point. I think there's moderate to major damage to the transfer gearsets. The warning signs were there, but I didn't heed them and thought they were something else. Back in May of 2008, at an autocross, the car bogged down hard coming out of a turn. At the time, I thought one of my calipers decided to hang on me after hard braking and I wrote it off as a 'one of' thing since I couldn't find anything wrong and it didn't do it again. Then, I would get intermittent light clunks on some types of low speed turns, usually when coming off the brakes. Again, I wrote it off as a sticky caliper. Back in August, I was backing out of my garage and the car bogged for a second as if I had the parking brake on. This was like a week after I replaced a wheel stud on the right rear wheel. From that point on, I had a very light deceleration click. I was too involved in getting my new house purchases sorted and moved for the remainder of 2008 to give it much thought. I figured that I got something in the parking brake assembly loose when I replaced the stud and some spring or something was rubbing where it shouldn't. It didn't get worse so it turned into "when I get to it." Then, about a month or so ago, the noise got suddenly louder and different on the drive home from work. About that time, I started thinking it was a wheel bearing or CV joint. That's what I made the dealer appointment I did for today, but then yesterday I got the gear oil leak and all the pieces of this tale fell into place tracing back almost a year ago now. I'm calling the dealer that rebuilt my 3rd and 4th gears and replaced my clutch at 30k miles to fix a synchro grind and to address a clutch TSB. They did it under warranty without so much as blinking an eye. I avoided them this first round because: a) I though it was something like a wheel bearing or CV joint, not transmission related. b) They were bought by a larger dealership chain I can't stand awhile ago. I have heard that most of the original people are still there though, so hopefully they will be ok to deal with. They were always to go to dealer for enthusiasts before they were bought. I'm going to call them up tomorrow and explain the situation. I am going to tell them my center differential is shot and making a ton of noise (as well as leaking gear oil) and ask them if they will repair just that and how much it will cost. Other indications around the web is that it should cost around $1200 parts and labor. I can live with that. I'm going to be sure to stress that I'm not interested in replacing the transmission as I don't think that's the cause and be sure they will do the work I want before driving out there on sat and dropping off the car.
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Feb 6, 2009 08:17
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I need to pick up some new tires for an '02 wrx. I've been running on the same tires that were on the car when I bought it almost a year ago, and I haven't really ever had to deal with picking out new tires before so maybe you guys could throw some suggestions my way. It has Yokohama ES100 235/45/zr17 97w tires on aftermarket 17" rims right now. I don't really have anything bad to say about these, but I don't have anything to compare them to so maybe I'm missing out? I live in central texas so I don't exactly see a lot of snow, and I don't track the car or anything like that (for now). I'd rather not spend a ton on tires (college student, etc.) but I'd like to get something that won't be just awful and make me regret spending money on them at all.
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Feb 6, 2009 16:29
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dreggory posted:I need to pick up some new tires for an '02 wrx. I've been running on the same tires that were on the car when I bought it almost a year ago, and I haven't really ever had to deal with picking out new tires before so maybe you guys could throw some suggestions my way. What's your budget? What are your priorities with tires: tread life? wet weather handling? noise? grip?
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Feb 6, 2009 16:32
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Ok, some slight hope. I called the other dealership today and explained the issue to them. The guy I spoke to was more familiar with the center diffs in automatic versions of cars, so he couldn't on the spot give me a typical repair cost. However, that at least acknowledged that they do, in fact, rebuild center differentials there rather than swapping out whole transmissions. The guy seemed rather amused that the other dealership just wanted to swap the transmission. He asked me what they did to diagnose it, and I told him that I honestly didn't know since they never tore anything apart. They didn't even drain the gear oil to see if there were broken bits in the fluid. I guess he could have done the stethoscope trick, but I'm not sure if that would be definitive enough to say "replace whole thing" when the operation of the transmission seems just dandy. So, we'll see what happens. They can't have me in till Tuesday so I'll have to make due in the meantime. I have an appointment first thing when they open at 7am. I don't have to be at work till 9:30 (and can stretch it anyways, if necessary). I asked the guy if they would be able to give me a course of action in the first 2 hours or so of having the car and he said they would. So, I'll be there to talk with them directly when they are looking at it. If I like what I hear, I can rent a car and leave my car to get repaired. If I don't like what I hear, I can just drive away. Guess it's time to stock up on gear oil.
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Feb 6, 2009 19:03
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Bud Manstrong posted:What's your budget? I'd like to stay somewhere around $100/tire but I don't know how feasible that is. Like I said, I'm not completely averse to paying for good tires. I realize this isn't something to skimp on. I would just prefer not to pay out the nose for some. My priorities are probably equal amounts tread life and grip. I do enjoy tossing the car around when I get the chance. noise doesn't bother me, and as long as I don't hydroplane into lightpoles every time it rains I'll probably be satisfied with the wet weather handling. I haven't had too much trouble with my current tires in the rain, and they are definitely not all-seasons. Thanks for the help 
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Feb 6, 2009 19:38
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Since I've owned my WRX I've had the itch to put in an aftermarket BOV. Not something too obnoxious but I want to be able to hear it. I'm a sucker for the sound. I know that the stock one is best but is there a different one I could put on the wouldn't hurt too much? EDIT: I know this may make me a ricer in some people's minds, but to each his own cmorrow001 fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Feb 6, 2009 |
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Feb 6, 2009 20:03
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dreggory posted:I'd like to stay somewhere around $100/tire but I don't know how feasible that is. I think you are going to have a hard time finding anything that's not junk in that size for $100 /tire. For a good modern UHP All-Season, you can get the Goodyear Eagle F1 all-season for about $149 /corner and even though they're all seasons, they will trounce those ancient ES100s in even perfect summer conditions to say nothing of wet. For a summer only tire actually in the pricerange, it looks like you can get some Falken FK-452s for $101 a corner in that size. Other than that, I'm not seeing anything that jumps out at me until you get closer to $200 a tire. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Feb 6, 2009 |
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Feb 6, 2009 20:12
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cmorrow001 posted:Since I've owned my WRX I've had the itch to put in an aftermarket BOV. Not something too obnoxious but I want to be able to hear it. I'm a sucker for the sound. The easiest way to get that sound is just to put on a short ram intake. If you really really must go for a bov, get a 50/50 valve like the GFB Hybrid. 100% VTA valves will make the car run like snot.
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Feb 6, 2009 20:18
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atomicfire posted:The easiest way to get that sound is just to put on a short ram intake. If you really really must go for a bov, get a 50/50 valve like the GFB Hybrid. 100% VTA valves will make the car run like snot. With a 50/50 will it run noticeably worse? Alternatively, what short ram intake would you recommend?
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Feb 6, 2009 20:24
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cmorrow001 posted:Since I've owned my WRX I've had the itch to put in an aftermarket BOV. Not something too obnoxious but I want to be able to hear it. I'm a sucker for the sound. Unless you have changed the intercooler and turbo there is no reasons to replace it and plenty of reasons not to. Namely the issue of recirculating the air and the maf sensor properly calculating air flow so you dont run silly rich. Don't waste your time or money. If you remove the baffling in your intake tract, you can hear the wastegate which is a similar sound and will add some more noise to the car if thats all you're really after. If you must, Tial makes some of the best ones provided you get the correct one for your application.
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Feb 6, 2009 20:25
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cmorrow001 posted:With a 50/50 will it run noticeably worse? Alternatively, what short ram intake would you recommend? I personally run a Typhoon with a GFB 50/50 because I'm running over 21 pounds of boost. At 21 pounds the stock BPV begins to leak, hence the need for one. Drivability is pretty good, the BOV releases later than the stock one so you lose a little bit of engine response. By far the best would be the Cobb short ram intake with their intake heatshield and box. The major issue with a short ram is sucking in hot air from the engine bay. Cobb's intake also has a special honeycomb design that straightens out the air before it hits the MAF to ensure you get accurate readings. I needed to tune my car for my intake because the flow was slightly off.
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Feb 6, 2009 20:41
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atomicfire and Zsbaug24 posted:good info Thanks for the info. I'll probably look into a SAI first then to see if that satisfies my need for that sound. Hopefully I'll be able to find a used one for cheap. Also, I'm hoping to go to upgrade this spring. STI intercooler, aftermarket down pipe and a stock STI uppipe (I may have gotten those mixed up, I have a buddy local who is going to help who knows his poo poo). I already ahve a CATback. Doing everything I can to help me like my car and not trade it in for a new one.
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Feb 6, 2009 21:12
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bull3964 posted:I think you are going to have a hard time finding anything that's not junk in that size for $100 /tire. That's fine. I really didn't have any frame of reference when I started looking so that 'budget' was just a shot in the dark. If $150/tire is what will get me some nice rubber then I'm perfectly happy paying it. What kind of tread life can you expect with something like those goodyears, anyway? Also, what is the normal procedure for buying from tirerack.com and getting them put on? I've been advised (and seen for myself) not to go to places like discount tire, etc. What's the alternative?
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Feb 7, 2009 01:00
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dreggory posted:
Can't really say because I haven't run them. I would imagine they would be similar to my RE960as (which appear to be about $180 in that size) and mine have about 30k miles on them at this point. They are getting close to the wear bars, but aren't quite there yet. I know some people also like the General Exclaim tire as well. I don't have any personal experience with it though. Those Falkens, last time I checked, were generally well regarded as a daily driver summer tire with good rain performance. You will have to source those from a different vendor like Vulcan Tire though since Tirerack doesn't carry Falkens. With tirerack, it's simple. You do a search for installers on the site, choose one when you complete the order, and they drop ship the tires to the location. You just setup an appointment to get them installed.
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Feb 7, 2009 01:12
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cmorrow001 posted:Thanks for the info. I'll probably look into a SAI first then to see if that satisfies my need for that sound. Hopefully I'll be able to find a used one for cheap. If you are going to replace the up-pipe, which is a pain to do, go with a better aftermarket one. The Grimmspeed is one the few I've heard nothing but good things about. You do still want one with a flex join in it, don't get a solid pipe. Thats a solid mid sized upgrade plan though.
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Feb 7, 2009 02:31
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jamal posted:for 8 hours of dealer labor you can buy an entire used 5-speed and have a competent shop swap it in. Call Andretech in Gaithersburg, MD. They're possibly the best subaru transmission shop in the country. yay I bought PPGs from them. Too bad I have to order my Modena shaz from the aussies still though.
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Feb 7, 2009 02:35
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dreggory posted:Also, what is the normal procedure for buying from tirerack.com and getting them put on? I've been advised (and seen for myself) not to go to places like discount tire, etc. What's the alternative? What's wrong with Discount Tire?
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Feb 7, 2009 02:41
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CharlesM posted:What's wrong with Discount Tire? I may be completely off base here, but I tend to lump them together with all the jiffy-lube type places. Kids running around using air tools on everything, breaking poo poo, denying it, etc.
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Feb 7, 2009 03:35
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dreggory posted:I may be completely off base here, but I tend to lump them together with all the jiffy-lube type places. Kids running around using air tools on everything, breaking poo poo, denying it, etc. That happens at most places. Firestone broke 3 lugs in one visit on my wife's car, and it had only been like 3 months since the wheels were last off it. Now, I've take about a million wheels off a thousand different cars, and never broke a lug ever not even once. Even when we were standing on a cheater bar 4 feet from the wheel and just bouncing up and down.
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Feb 7, 2009 04:03
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I've been having a problem when filling up since fall and its starting to bother me enough to try to do something about it. When I try to put gas in I can only pump gas in for about 15 seconds before the pump clicks off and I have to start again. I suspect something is not venting correctly, as I can hear the gas rushing up the tube before it clicks. The evap system diagrams I'm finding aren't helping much. Anyone have any ideas where to start fixing this problem?
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Feb 7, 2009 04:23
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8ender posted:I've been having a problem when filling up since fall and its starting to bother me enough to try to do something about it. When I try to put gas in I can only pump gas in for about 15 seconds before the pump clicks off and I have to start again. Lots of Subaru's have that "problem", just don't pump gas at the fastest setting and you'll be fine.
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Feb 7, 2009 04:30
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dreggory posted:I may be completely off base here, but I tend to lump them together with all the jiffy-lube type places. Kids running around using air tools on everything, breaking poo poo, denying it, etc. atomicfire posted:Lots of Subaru's have that "problem", just don't pump gas at the fastest setting and you'll be fine. I've had 3 Subarus and never had that problem. That's not really a solution.
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Feb 7, 2009 04:56
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dreggory posted:That's fine. I really didn't have any frame of reference when I started looking so that 'budget' was just a shot in the dark. If $150/tire is what will get me some nice rubber then I'm perfectly happy paying it. They're treated me right and gone well above the call of duty. This season I killed my Dunlops (Z1s) within 7 autocrosses and 7000mi (yay heavy AWD cars). I had another autcorss in late august and everyone was out of Z1s due to nationals. Discount tire said the could get them. They hosed up and got DZ101s. One day before the next autocross. They order up some RE-01Rs and mount some 615s for free. I inform the guy that they would be coming back destroyed (2-3 autcorss events before the RE-01Rs showed). He didn't care. They mounted $400+ worth of tires (probably only $200ish to them, but still, they didn't have to do anything) at no charge to me to save my next two weekends. That is loving sweet and earned a customer. They also use torque wrenches and the employees generally seem more with it than lube moneys (though i still watch em) Know the tire you want before hand and know what tirerack charges. They'll price match it (plus no shipping and mounting fees) nm fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Feb 7, 2009 |
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Feb 7, 2009 07:49
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nm posted:
How do you like your RE-01R's? I have some on my 2.5RS and love the poo poo outta them. I got new tire time coming up soon so I was wondering what others had to say. Way better then the Dunlops I had before and they poo poo all over the RE92's.
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Feb 7, 2009 18:26
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Slow is Fast posted:How do you like your RE-01R's? I have some on my 2.5RS and love the poo poo outta them. I got new tire time coming up soon so I was wondering what others had to say. Way better then the Dunlops I had before and they poo poo all over the RE92's. The Z1s are a better dry autocross tire, they heat up sooner. The RE-01Rs are better on the track IMHO (they hold up to heat better) and are easier to live with on a daily basis and the rain performace is great (2 days are blackhawk in the rain, awesome). They also seem to resist rolling better than the Z1s. They're also discontinued though (I've heard good rumors about the new tire, but nothing solid) the Z1s are also, much cheaper.
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Feb 7, 2009 19:18
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nm posted:They're pretty sweet. Sounds about right. I like the RE-01R's just because they're fantastic for daily driving. When I burn through mine I was either considering another set of RE-01R's or the Dunlop Z1 Star Spec's. I've found the RE-01R's to be fantastic all around so far.
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Feb 7, 2009 21:01
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I'd also note that on at least the heavier cars (mine is 3300, whcih isn't that heavy) the 615 suck balls comapred to teh z1s and RE-01Rs (And the Z1s in my size cost about as much as falkens)
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Feb 7, 2009 22:07
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My point is that it's not a characteristic of owning a Subaru and just working around the problem is not a solution. Furthermore, as for "no one really knowing the solution", in the links you provided it states that the problem is with the vent valve on the fuel filler neck.
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Feb 8, 2009 12:39
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I thought I'd share my iphone setup in my Legacy, since I thought about it for a while and wanted to get something fairly slick. I'm definitely not one for that dash mounted trash. Sits nicely on the little retractable thing, and stays on there unless I'm taking corners like a maniac (which I don't do often; need new tires).  Click here for the full 800x600 image. I like the wire indent that Subaru left in:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. The setup goes: Jazzy aux in -> underneath center / shifter area -> up through the cigarette lighter power plug thing (which I just took out) -> iPhone dock line out -> iPhone dock extension cable -> iPhone. The great thing about this is I get line out from the iphone, which sounds much better than the regular headphone out. Now I think all I need to do is put my pocket amp in there to boost things a bit. Plus it works even with an iphone sleeve.
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Feb 8, 2009 23:32
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Sabotaged posted:The setup goes: Jazzy aux in -> underneath center / shifter area -> up through the cigarette lighter power plug thing (which I just took out) -> iPhone dock line out -> iPhone dock extension cable -> iPhone. Is that power plug easy to remove? I can't imagine ever using it and I'd like a little more space in there. The cable notch does rule.
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Feb 9, 2009 06:34
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why would you call dash-mounting it "trash"? it looks way classier than having it slide around in the center and makes it much easier/safer for checking maps while driving.
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Feb 9, 2009 07:44
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MMD3 posted:why would you call dash-mounting it "trash"? it looks way classier than having it slide around in the center and makes it much easier/safer for checking maps while driving. I think they look ugly. It's just my opinion; I prefer to have something very unobtrusive. The cord and surface where it rests doesn't make it slide around much, either. GravityDaemon: If I recall, it's one with the entire plastic cubby itself, so I don't think you can take it out to make more room.
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Feb 9, 2009 08:18
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| # ? May 12, 2024 17:43 |
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8ender posted:
GTOs have problems filling at some pumps and one trick is to hold the pump nozzle upside-down so the hose points up. Or, figure out where the vent solenoid is in your evap system and see if it's functioning.
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Feb 9, 2009 14:20
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