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Sabotaged posted:GravityDaemon: If I recall, it's one with the entire plastic cubby itself, so I don't think you can take it out to make more room. Ah ok, so you just took the plug itself out. I thought you meant the whole little enclosure. That's a shame. I'll now have to make use of it to avoid getting pissed off about it. Thanks anyway!
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Feb 9, 2009 16:31
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Hurray for a devoted Subie thread! I drive a 98 Impreza L Coupe (no pictures at the moment). It's not particularly fast, but it's a load of fun in the snow. I would like suggestions on a new set of tires. Sorry to ask a similar question to one that was posted, but my car is a different model, and I'm not sure how the info correlates. I need to find a set of wheels to mount them on as well because I'd like to keep my snow tires mounted on the factory steels, so I don't really have a specific size of tire in mind. I'd like to find a balance between tread life and grip. I live in the Northeastern US, so I suppose wet weather handling is important. Road noise isn't a big issue for me. I put about 12k miles a year on my car. I found that in the same MY as my L, the RS came with a 205/55R16 from the factory. Mine were 195/65R15 if I'm not mistaken. Would it be recommended to move up a wheel size to something a little larger/wider? I assume that in summer conditions, a wider tire is going to provide more grip/handling ability? I saw someone mention the RE-01Rs as a good daily driver tire. Would that be a good recommendation or will it wear out fast? Thanks for any help.
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Feb 10, 2009 04:38
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Immortaldonut posted:I found that in the same MY as my L, the RS came with a 205/55R16 from the factory. Mine were 195/65R15 if I'm not mistaken. Would it be recommended to move up a wheel size to something a little larger/wider? I assume that in summer conditions, a wider tire is going to provide more grip/handling ability? I saw someone mention the RE-01Rs as a good daily driver tire. Would that be a good recommendation or will it wear out fast? Where in the Northeast? If snow is on the ground for a couple months out of the year, the RE-01Rs won't cut it. You'll have to get a set of winter tires or downgrade to all seansons.
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Feb 10, 2009 04:51
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kimbo305 posted:Where in the Northeast? If snow is on the ground for a couple months out of the year, the RE-01Rs won't cut it. You'll have to get a set of winter tires or downgrade to all seansons. RE-01Rs even on dry pavement below about 40F get scary. They're a summer only tire
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Feb 10, 2009 06:12
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kimbo305 posted:Where in the Northeast? If snow is on the ground for a couple months out of the year, the RE-01Rs won't cut it. You'll have to get a set of winter tires or downgrade to all seansons. Yeah, I've got snows on it right now. I'm keeping them on the factory wheels. Replacing them with spring/summer/fall tires on a different set of wheels.
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Feb 10, 2009 06:38
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I was pretty happy with my falken 912s. they have great on-road grip for an all season, I placed well at a rally-x with them, and drove through ice and snowstorms without too much trouble. I'll probably be picking up a new set fairly soon.
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Feb 10, 2009 06:45
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I'm considering engine management options for my MY01 STi and have come across a Unichip piggyback unit for about $220 (seems pretty cheap, has had 8,000mi use). If I were to buy this Unichip I would wait until I replace the downpipe to install/tune it, mainly due to cost. Is a good EBC a worthwhile mod in the meantime, or will the Unichip replace this in any case? The car is running 16psi at the moment, current "mods" are limited to a heavy duty clutch, a set of Toyo Proxes T1R's and a boost gauge, hence the reluctance to tune it yet. Allegedly it is lowered slightly but if it is it's very subtle. I have the front and underbody rear of this set  would it be worthwhile acquiring the rear brace to complete the set? Cheers for the help.
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Feb 10, 2009 11:45
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So, I'm at the other dealer now. No diagnostic fee this time around. They the pinion gear is likely shot along with whatever is shot in the center diff. $1600 max labor plus whatever parts they need. I know i could go cheaper routes, but this doesn't seem too bad, plus I'll feel better about this repair than a used transmission.
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Feb 10, 2009 15:19
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Well, my mood has changed considerably. They split the case. Oh the horror. The exploded center diff contaminated the rest of the tranny with metal shards. All of my bearings were seized, they were just chewing through their races. The fact that the rest of the transmission hadn't failed was just a matter of time. So, the tranny is 100% hosed. My clutch is shot too, but I guess that's not too surprising considering there's around 60k miles on it. So, I'm doing my part to stimulate ye old economy.
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Feb 10, 2009 22:29
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Jesus. How the hell did this happen again?
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Feb 10, 2009 23:17
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TurboLuvah posted:Jesus. How the hell did this happen again? The VC just gave way. At first it was gradual, but then it was catastrophic. I had a handful of instances of binding though out last year and every time I though I was having a brake problem with my brakes hanging up. Eventually, it just came apart in the transfer case in the back of the tranny. It basically splintered and broke up. That contaminated the rest of the gear oil and the metal pieces worked their way into the rest of the bearings. If I would have recognized the signs of the VC going out last year, i probably would have gotten away with just getting it replaced for a grand or so. But, I put off getting it looked at until it disintegrated fully. They had to hammer out my rear driveshaft because the heat fused it to the transfer case. The rubber seal around it was melted. But the real reason why I was leaking gear oil is one of the transfer gears migrated enough that it actually wore a hole though the side of the case. Keep in mind, up until a few days ago, the biggest symptom of all of this I had was some slight friction noise under acceleration and deceleration and a ticking sound under deceleration. They spiraled out of control quickly near the end. The noise worsened on weds of last week and it started leaking gear oil. That's when I took it to the first dealer who barely looked at it and said "We aren't going to bother cracking the case, pay us $2800 + labor for a used tranny with 52k on it." I wanted evidence though before I went willy nilly replacing the transmission. I didn't drive the car again until Monday. I drove it to work then out to my parents house which is near the other dealer I was going to take it to. Basically work is on the way so there wasn't any more driving than necessary. I met my dad for dinner on the way home last night. When I was leaving the restaurant, I backed out of the parking space and there was a hang and then a BANG sound like a gunshot. After that, I would get hard banging/knocking from the transmission along with binding whenever backed up, made a sharp turn, or had load going up a hill. I debated whether or not to tow it to the dealership at that point, but I figured the damage was done by that point and drove it the 5 miles to the dealership this morning. They had the tranny out of the car within an hour of me dropping it off. I saw the nice spikey drain plug (it looked like shredded razorblades. At the time, they thought all they would need to do is rebuild the center diff and replace the pinion bearings. They also took me on a tour under the car and showed me my clutch and flywheel to let me come to a decision on whether or not to replace them. Well, I left for work and they proceeded to split the case, at which time the full extent of the damage became apparent. So, my choices are (well, were), source a used tranny myself for $600-$800 and get it to them, take the used tranny that they could get for $1900, or put a new factory warrantied tranny in for $3500. All plus labor (which was mostly spent at this point since they removed and split the tranny.) The first one was problematic since I would have to find one, negotiate the deal, and have it shipped. Rentals aren't cheap. By the time I got all that sorted out and paid shipping, it just wasn't worth it to try to source one myself and get it to them. Ultimately, I went with would be the unpopular choice around here. The new transmission. I am paying out the rear end, I know. But the fact that the work and part is warrantied for a long period and there are no unknowns about what was done to it before hand ultimately won out. The used only had a 90 day warranty, so it could poo poo the bed at day 91 and all the money would have been wasted. Yes, I know it is technically possible to source a transmission and have it installed at an independent shop for under $2k, but it's not very easy to get that all lined up when you only mode of transportation you rely on is all tied up and you don't know any good independent shops that can handle subaru drivetrains. I do still plan on buying a new 09 (or 10) WRX later this year. I'm just not planning on getting rid of my 2002. I figure, especially now with a new clutch and tranny, it's probably good for another 7 years of duty as the second car. I'll get a nice set of winter tires for it and it will be my foul weather monster. The funny thing is, the outcome is exactly what the first dealer wanted to do (replace the tranny) but I don't feel the least bit guilty about losing my poo poo with them. They didn't treat me with respect and really didn't "diagnose" the issue. The labor to split the case was nominal on top of the R&R labor and well worth the possibility that all that would be needed was a few parts. The fact that they completely discounted that possibility and just pushed the 'new (used) tranny!' from the getgo left a bad taste in my mouth. Also, they tried the hard sell on committing to replacing my clutch before everything was apart. At least with this dealership, he called me over and showed me the wear on the part and let me make my own decision. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Feb 11, 2009 |
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Feb 10, 2009 23:56
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You said it had 60k on it. Might be worth a try to call SOA and POLITELY (don't be a dick it will get nowhere) see if they can do anything about it. Tell them you like Subarus and this is your xth Subaru and you plan on buying another 09, and see if they will work with you at all. I've had very good luck with them and problems right around warranty expirations.
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Feb 11, 2009 00:14
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Quick question, I want to buy my first WRX or Sti (02-04), is it better to A) buy stock and go to town with the normal grab bag of mods B) buy an already modded car and have the work and labor off my head, at risk with the guy having hosed up the job I know this is a very general question, but Im deciding if its even worth my time sitting on the nasoic classifieds and looking for that something special or just hit ebay and find a very well taken care of stock subby and take it from there.
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Feb 11, 2009 00:26
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TurboLuvah posted:You said it had 60k on it. Might be worth a try to call SOA and POLITELY (don't be a dick it will get nowhere) see if they can do anything about it. Tell them you like Subarus and this is your xth Subaru and you plan on buying another 09, and see if they will work with you at all. I've had very good luck with them and problems right around warranty expirations. The clutch had 60k on it, that's because it was replaced at 30k under the shudder TSB when I had it in for warranty work on my 4th gear synchro. The car itself has 90k on it, well outside the warranty. I autocross the car and I didn't heed all the warning signs that the diff was failing. This is my own fault. I'm depressed and annoyed that my pocketbook is taking an extreme hit right now, but life will go on. What's done is done and there's really no other logical choice at this point other than repair the car ASAP. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Feb 11, 2009 |
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Feb 11, 2009 00:34
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koopatrooper posted:B) buy an already modded car and have the work and labor off my head, at risk with the guy having hosed up the job No. Try to find as stock a car as you can, and go from there.
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Feb 11, 2009 00:45
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This is random, but if anyone needs a few headlight adjuster sockets (for 90s Legacies, probably other models also), PM me. They're the little nylon sockets that the adjuster bolt balls go into, and it's impossible to aim a headlight when one is broken. Subaru doesn't carry them as an OEM part, but I finally found them through a collision supply place (listed as a part for a '94 Camry).
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Feb 11, 2009 00:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:We had a rental '08 Legacy on a trip last month...even for a base-model 170hp sedan with an autotragic, it was actually a very nice car. Enough so to make me seriously consider a Subaru in the future, especially the Legacy and its derivatives for when certain family members decide they need a new car. This is how they got me -- fell in love with a rental. As of last night, I'm the proud new owner of an 06 Legacy.  Sadly, I've got rather minimal car experience (you know, outside of driving) but I hope to learn 
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Feb 11, 2009 13:55
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wrok posted:This is how they got me -- fell in love with a rental. As of last night, I'm the proud new owner of an 06 Legacy. I had an 2005 Legacy 2.5i sedan rental and though, hey, this would be a sweet car with a turbo, a manual, and a bigger trunk. Thanks Hertz!
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Feb 11, 2009 21:06
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nm posted:You mean any time of the year. And they tram all over the place. Hit a paint line at 10 mph and you're going where ever it's going. Still don't get how you think they're good in the rain, nm. U crazy.
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Feb 11, 2009 21:49
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Turbo Car posted:And they tram all over the place. Hit a paint line at 10 mph and you're going where ever it's going. 
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Feb 11, 2009 21:58
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Chunderbuss posted:I'm considering engine management options for my MY01 STi and have come across a Unichip piggyback unit for about $220 (seems pretty cheap, has had 8,000mi use). If I were to buy this Unichip I would wait until I replace the downpipe to install/tune it, mainly due to cost. Is a good EBC a worthwhile mod in the meantime, or will the Unichip replace this in any case? The car is running 16psi at the moment, current "mods" are limited to a heavy duty clutch, a set of Toyo Proxes T1R's and a boost gauge, hence the reluctance to tune it yet. Allegedly it is lowered slightly but if it is it's very subtle. Oh my god no don't buy the Unichip. There's a reason why no one sells it anymore. For $220 there are better options, like the UTEC or the Prova AccessPort. If you're handy with learning and engine tuning, try the Tactrix Cable + RomRaider. I'm not too sure if the UTEC will hook up correctly without a custom harness, but its best to call TXS about it and check. Hydra would almost certantly work, call up Phil at Element Tuning to find out. Out of all these options, the only one that fits under the $220 you were going to spend on the unichip is the Tactrix cable + RomRaider. In any case you never want a boost controller on any turbo Subie until whatever ecu you're using has been specifically tuned for the use of a boost controller. The reason being that the ECU will be expecting a certain amount of boost but the boost controller will attempt to make full boost whenever possible. Partial throttle acceleration is the worst, the boost controller will try to make the full boost but the ECU isn't expecting it because the loadpoint in the map only calls for a certain amount of boost. The ECU runs less fuel in the engine, the turbo spools, engine goes lean, boom, blown engine. Its true a boost controller will build boost quicker, but make sure you get tuned for it before you install it. Hope this helps.
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Feb 12, 2009 03:51
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I just picked up this 09 WRX Premium today. It's quite an upgrade from the Honda Fit that I traded.
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Feb 12, 2009 06:31
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so, here's how not to put a bigger intercooler on your 08 wrx: Click here for the full 1280x960 image. he brought it in after we informed him that yes, you do need injectors, a fuel pump, and a tune for that. Oh well, it made like 340whp on 91 and probably isn't on the verge of blowing up anymore. I think what saved him was the stock boost controller without a pill. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Feb 12, 2009 |
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Feb 12, 2009 07:59
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jamal posted:so, here's how not to put a bigger intercooler on your 08 wrx: Interesting, definately haven't seen that before. What turbo is that?
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Feb 12, 2009 08:13
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Guys, I was just going over the pros and cons of an ex-fleet boring as poo poo 2006 Toyota Camry (circa 10-30000 miles) OR an 05 2003 SUBARU LIBERTY 3GEN MY03 RX AWD SPECIAL EDITION which is a wagon with 88000 miles on it. Same price range, AU$14000. Could someone more learned than myself tell me what's due to go wrong with this automatic Subi, versus my manual 1992 GX Liberty (probably called a Legacy in the US) which has cost me a boatload in the last 8 years due to stupid loving mechanics and their inability to install a gearbox correctly (on it's 3rd after the first mech hosed the install on the 2nd). Thanks guys, I'm a worthless lurker but I enjoy reading AI for it's plethora of useful info from dedicated petrolheads. BastardAus fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Feb 12, 2009 |
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Feb 12, 2009 12:22
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Hey guys, quick question. 08 LGT, CBE - I got a K&N panel filter for my birthday (last july) and have yet to put it in. I know general consensus is any sort of intake mod you need to get tuned. Is that true of the panel filters as well? To be perfectly clear, I have not had the car tuned at all. No AP/UTEC/etc.
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Feb 12, 2009 12:48
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BastardAus posted:Guys, I was just going over the pros and cons of an ex-fleet boring as poo poo 2006 Toyota Camry (circa 10-30000 miles) OR an 05 2003 SUBARU LIBERTY 3GEN MY03 RX AWD SPECIAL EDITION which is a wagon with 88000 miles on it. The 2003 N/A 2.5s may have head gasket issues. The 4-speed subaru automatic sucks to drive, but is actually quite durable. edit: Wait, an 05 2003 Subaru Liberty? is that a 2005 or a 2003? ssjonizuka posted:Hey guys, quick question. 08 LGT, CBE - I got a K&N panel filter for my birthday (last july) and have yet to put it in. I know general consensus is any sort of intake mod you need to get tuned. Is that true of the panel filters as well? To be perfectly clear, I have not had the car tuned at all. No AP/UTEC/etc.
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Feb 12, 2009 16:03
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koopatrooper posted:Quick question, I want to buy my first WRX or Sti (02-04), is it better to If you are near Northern Virginia/DC area, theres a guy selling an 07 WRX with some great mods done to it, and taken well care of. I know the guy personally. Search for nickguy07 in the MAIC area. He's looking to sell his car still. I know it has a FMIC, vf39 sti turbo, and tune to go with it.
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Feb 12, 2009 16:09
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New 04 WRX seats....+50whp   Haven't put the 04 rear wagon seats in yet, too lazy. Now to find 04+ door cards to match.
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Feb 12, 2009 17:31
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TurboLuvah posted:New 04 WRX seats....+50whp How much did those set you back? I'd like to get something like that for my 02' wagon.
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Feb 12, 2009 17:54
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I paid $300 for a wagon set of front and rears. I figured it was a pretty drat good price considering they're STi seats with just black cloth and no alcantara, and I get the rears as well. I found them locally off of NASIOC, in mint shape. Do it if you can find some, it makes the interior just feel better.
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Feb 12, 2009 18:06
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TurboLuvah posted:I paid $300 for a wagon set of front and rears. I figured it was a pretty drat good price considering they're STi seats with just black cloth and no alcantara, and I get the rears as well. I found them locally off of NASIOC, in mint shape. Are you sure they're the same shape as STi seats? I've got a set in my living room. I always thought the STi seats were more bucketed than the WRX seats of that era.
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Feb 12, 2009 19:08
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Mr. Powers posted:Are you sure they're the same shape as STi seats? I've got a set in my living room. I always thought the STi seats were more bucketed than the WRX seats of that era. Yeah I'm pretty sure they're just the same seat with a different cover.
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Feb 12, 2009 20:30
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ssjonizuka posted:Hey guys, quick question. 08 LGT, CBE - I got a K&N panel filter for my birthday (last july) and have yet to put it in. I know general consensus is any sort of intake mod you need to get tuned. Is that true of the panel filters as well? To be perfectly clear, I have not had the car tuned at all. No AP/UTEC/etc. You will be perfectly okay. Most of the time its not the filter that fucks up the intake, its the MAF tube. The K&N filter is a great improvement for a great price, and the combo of the filter + stock airbox should be able to hold up to around 350whp before it becomes a restriction. Also, your cat back is fine too. Its the downpipe that is the most restrictive, don't touch that, don't even punch it until you get either a custom tune or a AP. Good luck, great car, POST PICS!
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Feb 12, 2009 22:19
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nm posted:What motor is in that? It's a 2003, excuse my shocking typing. Engine is your standard multi-point injected 2.5L (2457cc). Thanks nm.
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Feb 13, 2009 00:08
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For years my dream car was an Impreza 2.5RS Coupe, but it seems that these days they're harder and harder to find in unmolested condition. I've been watching NASIOC, RS25, Craigslist and Autotrader for months but have yet to find an RS Coupe in decent, unmodified condition. Any suggestions as to where else I could look?
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Feb 13, 2009 00:20
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fatman1683 posted:For years my dream car was an Impreza 2.5RS Coupe, but it seems that these days they're harder and harder to find in unmolested condition. I've been watching NASIOC, RS25, Craigslist and Autotrader for months but have yet to find an RS Coupe in decent, unmodified condition. Not to talk you out of it, but from my personal comparisons, the coupes aren't that great. Terrible back seat access and the doors are ridiculously heavy and long, so getting out of tight parking spaces kind of suck. I too lusted after a coupe, but it seems like sedans are a bit easier to come by and I'm glad that that is what I ended up with.
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Feb 13, 2009 03:27
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Mr. Powers posted:Not to talk you out of it, but from my personal comparisons, the coupes aren't that great. Terrible back seat access and the doors are ridiculously heavy and long, so getting out of tight parking spaces kind of suck. I too lusted after a coupe, but it seems like sedans are a bit easier to come by and I'm glad that that is what I ended up with. Well it's not going to be a family car so back seat access is mostly academic to me. The door thing seems like it could be an annoyance, but really, I think it'd be a price I'm willing to pay. Also from what I've seen the coupes are a bit more spacious in the front, due to having the tiny backseat in the same wheelbase as the sedans. I'm a big guy so this is important.
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Feb 13, 2009 05:28
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fatman1683 posted:Well it's not going to be a family car so back seat access is mostly academic to me. The door thing seems like it could be an annoyance, but really, I think it'd be a price I'm willing to pay. Also from what I've seen the coupes are a bit more spacious in the front, due to having the tiny backseat in the same wheelbase as the sedans. I'm a big guy so this is important. The interiors are identical. The sedan has the same layout. I only mentioned the back seat thing because without folding seats, it's a bitch to move anything, so you'll pretty much be limited to the trunk only for easy cargo area. But, yeah, I was in the same boat. I really wanted the coupe, but they are tough to find, whereas the sedans seem to be more plentiful, and that's how I ended up with it, and I ended up happy.
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Feb 13, 2009 05:32
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we had some pretty good results with an 09 wrx on the dyno today. It's not the first one we've tuned, but I was pretty impressed with what it made. A stock 08 sti makes 220-230 whp, riding the knock sensor the whole way. Tonight a stock 09 wrx made 244whp. Then we put on an intake and tuned it. Now it makes 280whp. This is all on the same dyno, in southern california where atmospheric conditions don't change much, all on 91 poo poo pump gas.
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Feb 13, 2009 10:22
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