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Yeah honestly, I'd just apologize to the roommate and buy them a new futon rather than trying to clean it up. You can give it a shot with nature's miracle and lots of prayers but honestly you're probably never going to get the smell out entirely if it's been saturated with it, cat pee is awful stuff.
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Feb 25, 2009 15:05
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My boyfriend and I are planning to move in together in about 1-1.5 months. I've got two cats and he has a ~65lb golden retriever mix named Rusty. The animals have met each other and Rusty comes over to my current place at least once a week. They have no issues. I have three sets of questions though: 1) Boyfriend is allergic to cats. Currently our plan is to get a place with has much hard flooring as possible (minimum being everything but bedrooms being hard flooring), keep cats out of all bedrooms, get a house with a screen porch so cats can spend a lot of time out of the house, vacuum regularly (I have a good vac with a HEPA filter), use non-fabric covered furniture (leather couch, wooden chairs, etc.), and bathe the cats every 1-2 weeks (they are fine with baths). I have also purchased a HEPA filter for our bedroom and a larger one for the living room area. Is there anything else I am not thinking of that I should be doing? 2) We have three animals, one of them a large dog, and this makes finding a rental a bit difficult. All three animals are very well behaved but a lot of the landlords are apprehensive about allowing the dog. Anyone have tips for getting landlord approval for Rusty? Currently my plan is to have them meet him if possible, since I think he'll make a very good impression. Any advice would be appreciated though. 3) I love Rusty to death and his behavior is generally impeccable, but he has one major vice: if he sees a dog or person he wants to meet while I am walking him he drops as low as possible and yanks me off my feet trying to get to them. This situation is both embarassing and dangerous. He has pulled me over on more than one occasion. With a gentle leader or pinch collar on he won't even *try* to do this. It's only with a flat collar or martingale on. He doesn't do it with my boyfriend and I suspect it's that he knows I'm smaller and he can get away with it. He knows a ton of commands and listens to me perfectly otherwise. I need some training advice on how to fix this. I spend a lot of time with him and want to get this under control. Pictures:   
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Feb 25, 2009 17:19
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I don't really have any help for Rusty other than maybe trying prevetative measures by working with him as the other dog/person approaches. But if you haven't found a house/apt already I would suggest a house in any downtown area. I was looking for pretty much what you were in terms of flooring and I wanted a large fenced in yard. I got a great house in a nice neighborhoood for only about 100 bucks more a month on top of that most of the rental properties in the area are owned my individuals we got really lucky as our landlords used to have a German Shepherd mix and understood how hard it is to find a home when you have a bigger dog. I found them on craigslist and I looked at lots of similar properties with all my requirements but this was the first one that wasn't reluctant about having a GSD. Good luck in the house hunt! edit: I'm not a huge cat person but you're kitties are too pretty! (I have such a soft spot for Zeus)
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Feb 25, 2009 18:22
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dopaMEAN posted:It smelled terrible, and when I pulled the futon cover off (it's from Ikea) the futon had been soaked all the way through. Write off the old futon mattress. It's possible to get the urine out with an enymatic cleaner, but for a mattress like that you'd need so much that it's not worth it. Got a Craigslist site in your area? People give away futon mattresses all the time.
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Feb 26, 2009 02:15
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I remember seeing someone recommending that if your dog is freaking out and lunging at other people, you just stop in your tracks or even turn and start walking the other way. Don't let him do what he wants and use the pinch collar or gentle leader all the time, no exceptions. He probably knows he can get away with it with you so stop letting him  Hes adorable though and so are your cats!! And Natures Miracle makes an allergen reducing formula, though I don't know how much that would help for the allergies. Could he just take Claritin or something similar?
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Feb 26, 2009 02:28
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We have a puppy Boston Terrier that is about 5 mos. old. In the last month or so, he has started scratching himself incessantly, and, to a lesser extent, biting at his paws. The scratching is bad enough to the point where he now has a couple of rather large scabbed over wounds on his front arms, and some minor ones under his neck and on his belly. We have switched his food a couple of times now, and as of the moment he's been on Innova EVO by itself (no mixing old stuff) for about a week. We were suspecting grain allergies so we thought this would be the best option. His stool is hardened again so I think he has adjusted to the food fairly well. But he's still scratching away. We have also given him children's Benadryl to no effect whatsoever. Anything else that we should try before we take him for allergy testing? Is allergy testing even worth it? Any chance he is just scratching as a behavioral issue?
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Feb 26, 2009 15:04
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"[panic posted:"] Have you consulted a vet yet? They would probably recommend an elimination diet to see what the allergy might be, and advise you how to go about it. For all you know, the dog could be allergic to chicken, not grain. It does sound like a food allergy, biting feet and itchiness are signs. Don't put a vet visit off though, he needs to see the vet! As a side question, did you buy the dog from a pet store? I've seen it happen before in a store bought Boston. Sweet dog, but tons of issues from coming from a mill.
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Feb 26, 2009 15:53
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You really should take him to vet, even if you don't want to spring for the allergy testing. They can prescribe something to help with the itching since the benadryl isn't working. Also, dogs can be allergic to a to of things besides food, just like us, so it could easily be a grass or pollen allergy, a sensitivity to a detergent or fabric softener, even fleas. Also, as the previous poster said, he could have a food allergy to something that's also in EVO, or it may have not been long enough on the food yet to tell. But don't let your dog scratch himself raw for the 6-8 weeks it can take for food trials to work, go to the vet.
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Feb 26, 2009 16:29
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Thanks for the advice. At this point we have effectively completed the elimination diet; there is no standard ingredient in all of the foods we have tried. We haven't gone the vet route yet because (according to my fiancee) they will just prescribe a low quality allergy food like Purina, and having worked in a pet supply store for 6 years she is obsessive about food ingredients and swears against any foods like Purina. He just seems so young to have allergies. That's a good idea to get a prescribed allergy medication and I think it will be more palatable to my fiancee. We are taking him in for his neutering the weekend after this one so we'll get something prescribed then. For what it's worth, no, he's not a pet store animal. We wouldn't buy a drat toy at any of those places, let alone a pet. They disgust me. edit: Do food trials really take 6-8 weeks? We were going with 4 weeks...I would hate to have switched off of something that may have worked. [panic] fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Feb 26, 2009 |
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Feb 26, 2009 16:52
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Animals are never too young to have allergies. My cat Weasel is very allergic to fleas and that showed up at around 3-4 months.
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Feb 26, 2009 17:06
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"[panic posted:"] I think this is your answer, food trails are slow processes. Good luck.
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Feb 26, 2009 17:42
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Going through allergy issues as well, my girl is on 6 fresh fish orijen I like it. She is also geting 50 mg of allergy meds three times daily. The one thing I would watch is the spots hes chewing aren't raw my girl chews so much she gets sores and I have to get antibiotics so they don't get infected. We went to the vet on Tues. for shots and the vet gave her a steroid shot which has made a world of difference she hasn't itched at all, but from my limited knowledge I know that steriod shots aren't a solution because they have side effects. But my vet said it usually takes at least 6 weeks to see any improvements. Question: What are the long term side effects of steriod shots?
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Feb 26, 2009 17:45
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DenialTwist posted:Question: What are the long term side effects of steriod shots? Weight gain (due to increased appetite), gastrointestinal upset (can result in vomiting and not being hungry), diabetes, extra hair growth, reduced immune function, kidney damage, bone density problems. They can also cause behavioral changes like being sluggish or hyper, depending on the animal. I'm sure there are others I'm missing but you get the gist. Steroids are GREAT in the short term to get a problem under control and BAD in the long term due to serious side effects. If you need to do steroids longer term, it's usually better to do the pills so you can stop them if needed and use the lowest effective dose. Zeus (cat) is on long term steroids for asthma (we use an inhaled form most of the time to reduce side effect risk).
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Feb 26, 2009 18:59
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One last question -- my puppy also has really, really bad dandruff (and gas, but that's normal for a Boston). Is that anything that would signify food vs. non-food allergies?
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Feb 26, 2009 20:36
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I have a 6-week old sheltie puppy joining my family this weekend. Is there anything I should know concerning diet, training or whatever.
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Feb 26, 2009 22:52
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Rated PG-34 posted:I have a 6-week old sheltie puppy joining my family this weekend. Is there anything I should know concerning diet, training or whatever. You should know that it's extremely unhealthy for a dog to leave its litter at 6 weeks, and it sounds like you better back right the gently caress out of whatever contract you have with that poo poo breeder right now.
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Feb 26, 2009 22:56
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I have a year and a half old male cat who is constantly destroying the bags that line his litter box. He shares it with two girls about his age and they get along without scratching the lining or shredding it like he does. Basically, my parents have threatened to get him declawed if we can't get him to stop shredding it, because they hate going through a liner every day or so. They don't want him to be declawed and neither do I, and I feel like it is a poor solution to the problem, but we have no idea what to do. It gets expensive having to change the litter every day. I am not home (at college), so I can't exactly change or buy more bags/litter for them on a regular basis. I was thinking about getting him some sort of litter box that doesn't need a liner to keep it clean (besides washing it out, obviously). Any suggestions? Other than than buying something, could we somehow train him to stop? Thanks.
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Feb 26, 2009 23:22
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I tried liners at first, and they were more trouble than they were worth. Without them, things really aren't any grosser, smellier, or harder to clean. And you really don't have to change the litter every day unless you're using some unusual kind, and then I'd say evaluate whether THAT is worth it, too. I use a perfume-free clumping clay directly in a cheapo $15 plastic box, scoop and top off with fresh at least once a day, and once a month I toss the whole load and wipe the box with some Mean Green-ed paper towels (and then a thorough, thorough rinsing in the basement washtub). Basic setup, no problems. I mean, I'm trying to give you (or, your parents) the benefit of the doubt, but it seems kind of strange that they'd be threatening the cat with multiple amputations because he is minorly inconveniencing them and / or costing them money they probably shouldn't bother spending in the first place. Even if it was a $2000 leather couch, I'd be concerned about de-clawing, but... over litterbox liners? mumblingscrapwaver fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Feb 27, 2009 |
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Feb 26, 2009 23:31
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mumblingscrapwaver posted:I tried liners at first, and they were more trouble than they were worth. Without them, things really aren't any grosser, smellier, or harder to clean. And you really don't have to change the litter every day unless you're using some unusual kind, and then I'd say evaluate whether THAT is worth it, too. Oh, no I totally agree with you. I think it's kinda ridiculous to even think about the declawing. I think they are just frustrated because money is tight and they don't want to "waste" money on the cats as opposed to say, food or college bills. When the cat lived with me temporarily, I basically did what you did. I didn't bother with liners, just cleaned it every 2 weeks basically. I will try to talk them into getting rid of the liners, perhaps.
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Feb 27, 2009 00:03
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Well if the motivation is that they don't want to waste money, I would definitely talk them out of the liners. (Especially as opposed to the cost of de-clawing and the special post-op litter, let alone any potential complications afterward.)
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Feb 27, 2009 00:08
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Lord of the Waffles posted:Oh, no I totally agree with you. I think it's kinda ridiculous to even think about the declawing. I think they are just frustrated because money is tight and they don't want to "waste" money on the cats as opposed to say, food or college bills. When the cat lived with me temporarily, I basically did what you did. I didn't bother with liners, just cleaned it every 2 weeks basically. I will try to talk them into getting rid of the liners, perhaps. We had liners for our catboxes initially. Waste of money really. They're just fancy garbage bags that don't really help that much in the first place.
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Feb 27, 2009 00:20
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Rated PG-34 posted:I have a 6-week old sheltie puppy joining my family this weekend. Is there anything I should know concerning diet, training or whatever. No, seriously. If your breeder is sending you a 6 week old puppy and isn't answering these basic questions for you, you are a fool if you bring that puppy home. I don't care if you think you're already attached, don't loving do it. Go somewhere else.
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Feb 27, 2009 00:23
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sucks to ur assmar posted:No, seriously. If your breeder is sending you a 6 week old puppy and isn't answering these basic questions for you, you are a fool if you bring that puppy home. I don't care if you think you're already attached, don't loving do it. Go somewhere else. I haven't asked her these questions yet, but I'm sure she would answer them if I did. She offered to deliver the puppy early as she would be in town, and I could avoid the trouble of having to travel to her kennel. However, you're right; 6-weeks is much early, and I'm concerned about her other breeding practices now.
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Feb 27, 2009 00:44
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Rated PG-34 posted:I haven't asked her these questions yet, but I'm sure she would answer them if I did. She offered to deliver the puppy early as she would be in town, and I could avoid the trouble of having to travel to her kennel. However, you're right; 6-weeks is much early, and I'm concerned about her other breeding practices now. Post the name of the kennel and the dog experts here would be happy to examine her breeding practices for you if she has a website.
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Feb 27, 2009 00:47
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randomity posted:Post the name of the kennel and the dog experts here would be happy to examine her breeding practices for you if she has a website. Lasair Shelties She seems reputable, or at least as other breeders in my area, although her website is a bit out of date.
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Feb 27, 2009 00:56
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He posted the website in the pictures thread, and it seemed okay to me though it was pretty weird that she didn't have any brags about her dogs up or that all the pictures of the puppies were sitting, not stacked...the fact that she is willing to give you a puppy at six weeks is more than enough reason for you to back the gently caress away, and fast. Even if everything else about a breeder is perfect, they should know better.
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Feb 27, 2009 01:16
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mumblingscrapwaver posted:Well if the motivation is that they don't want to waste money, I would definitely talk them out of the liners. Aren't liners themselves wasting money? I don't use liners and I don't have a problem. If the litter is deep enough its not like you get pee stuck to the plastic. Anyways, give the whole thing a proper cleaning as needed and you shouldn't have a problem. It boggles my mind that people would consider DECLAWING a cat for scratching at the litterbox liner, wtf. And how is declawing not wasting money? If the cat is that problematic (for doing normal cat things, I might add), give him away and keep the two who aren't a problem.
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Feb 27, 2009 01:19
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Lord of the Waffles posted:stuff about liners Yeah, listen to everyone else here. Back when I first got my first cat, I tried using liners, and they just weren't useful for a litterbox. They'd shred, and pee and stuff would get under them. You could try an anti-odor additive, there are lots on the market and a little sprinkle now and then might help. Even plain, cheap baking soda would absordb some of the ammonia odor. Other than that, scrubbing the litterbox out with bleach every time you dump all the litter would help kill the odor-causing bacteria - just make sure you rinse the box thoroughly and let it totally dry before you put more litter into it - and bleach is SUPER cheap. Another option is a covered litterbox that includes an air filter. I've got a couple of the super-large Booda domes, and every few months I replace the air filters. And the Febreze brand plug-in air fresheners do a pretty good job overing up my cats' odors.
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Feb 27, 2009 01:30
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jbone posted:Other than that, scrubbing the litterbox out with bleach every time you dump all the litter would help kill the odor-causing bacteria - just make sure you rinse the box thoroughly and let it totally dry before you put more litter into it - and bleach is SUPER cheap. Rinse it out BEFORE you put bleach in it too, cat urine is heavily laced with ammonia. Ammonia + bleach = chlorine gas. In these small amounts it won't hurt you seriously, but it still burns your lungs and stinks.
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Feb 27, 2009 01:35
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adventure in the sandbox posted:Aren't liners themselves wasting money? My point exactly. Just not using them is the simplest, cheapest answer, and best for the cat. Win-win-win!
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Feb 27, 2009 01:42
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sucks to ur assmar posted:He posted the website in the pictures thread, and it seemed okay to me though it was pretty weird that she didn't have any brags about her dogs up or that all the pictures of the puppies were sitting, not stacked...the fact that she is willing to give you a puppy at six weeks is more than enough reason for you to back the gently caress away, and fast. Even if everything else about a breeder is perfect, they should know better. Another sign I had is that she didn't ask any questions about my current situation, i.e. whether or not the puppy would be going to an ideal home.
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Feb 27, 2009 02:01
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Rated PG-34 posted:Another sign I had is that she didn't ask any questions about my current situation, i.e. whether or not the puppy would be going to an ideal home. ...Woah, seriously? No interview?? Holy loving poo poo RUN. Do not buy that puppy. Next time have someone help you screen for a good breeder. You can post a thread here if you like, plenty of people will help you.
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Feb 27, 2009 02:05
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mumblingscrapwaver posted:Even if it was a $2000 leather couch, I'd be concerned, but... over litterbox liners? Leather couch, hell. My dogs and cats have destroyed our leather furniture and all my mom had to say was, "we should really buy some dye to mask those scratches."
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Feb 27, 2009 02:20
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sucks to ur assmar posted:...Woah, seriously? No interview?? Holy loving poo poo RUN. Do not buy that puppy. Next time have someone help you screen for a good breeder. You can post a thread here if you like, plenty of people will help you. I'm trying to back out now... I hope she'll refund my $200 deposit.
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Feb 27, 2009 02:20
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Rated PG-34 posted:I'm trying to back out now... I hope she'll refund my $200 deposit. If she balks, tell her your landlord changed his mind and won't let you have a dog.
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Feb 27, 2009 02:29
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jbone posted:If she balks, tell her your landlord changed his mind and won't let you have a dog. She's definitely balking. It's sort of too late to say that however, as I already mentioned I lost confidence in her breeding practices.
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Feb 27, 2009 02:43
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Losing your deposit is a small price to pay, and now hopefully you've learned your lesson. If you're not absolutely 100% sure what you need to look for in a good breeder, ask for help.
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Feb 27, 2009 03:06
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I got a quickie question about the lil' guys. (hamsters) I've been thinking to buy one. Since I do nothing in my room anyway I though I'd try and be more productive and get a pet for me to keep me from fusing into the couch. The only room I know I can keep a hamster is in my room, but my room is also the oddest when it comes to temperatures for some reason. During winter it can get drat cold and during summer it can get drat stuffy and hot even with the windows open. I live in southern San Diego by the way. So my questions is this...do I have to worry about this if I get myself a hamster? Do I have to buy a heater of some sort for those cold nights? Do I have to put my fan next to the cage during summer!?!  Am I overreacting!!??! (it doesn't get freezing cold, just cold enough to wear two pairs of socks. But it gets hot and stuffy in my room :/ no idea why)
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Feb 27, 2009 03:27
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sucks to ur assmar posted:Losing your deposit is a small price to pay, and now hopefully you've learned your lesson. If you're not absolutely 100% sure what you need to look for in a good breeder, ask for help. I suppose it's for the best. I guess it's not enough to just look for AKC/CKC registered breeders. I guess it's back to the puppy search. I've narrowed my desired breed list to Shetland Sheepdogs and Pembroke Welsh Corgis, although I recently read in a book that Welsh Corgis can be a problematic breed. Does anyone know reputable breeders in British Columbia? Should I consider a delivered puppy from outside my area?
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Feb 27, 2009 03:45
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Rated PG-34 posted:I suppose it's for the best. I guess it's not enough to just look for AKC/CKC registered breeders. I guess it's back to the puppy search. No it isn't enough at all, most puppy mill dogs and pet store dogs are registered. Registration alone really means poo poo besides that the dog is the breed they say it is. Go to the AKC website and look up the breed club of your choice, lots of the club pages will have breeder referrals for you to check out. Some breeders will ship too if you cannot find a good breeder locally. e; Also I'm happy to see you're taking sucks to ur assmar's advice, most people are too impatient and would just give in and get the puppy anyway, but it's good to see you're committed to avoid supporting poor breeding practices. 
UltraGrey fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Feb 27, 2009 |
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Feb 27, 2009 04:06
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