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nm posted:Seriously? Most of the time the 9-2x has lower rates if the net is to be believed. It isn't like the WRX is a cheap car to insure. I suspect the price of collision/comprehensive was mostly because of the rarity of the front clip; possibly the Albertan insurance concerns don't actually understand the concept of "shared internals" since Sunfires and Cavaliers also have different insurance rates.
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Feb 23, 2009 06:42
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSp05dfuO28 Look for car 33. Oh Lord, I love the noises this bastard makes!
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Feb 23, 2009 07:08
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So I'm an AI neophyte, but what the hell, it's my first Subaru and my first all-mine car, so gently caress it! Love this car to pieces (well, hopefully not): 06 Legacy Limited. It's a shared (with my wife) DD so we went with an automatic, but it's still quite fun to drive.   I rented one for 2 weeks in Iceland this summer and fell in love. Looks great and held it's own on Iceland's rather intense/rough roadways. I'm quickly rocketing on my way to Subaru-logo-tattoo-level devotion.
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Feb 23, 2009 14:00
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atomicfire posted:Fuel cleaners sometimes leave deposits on your cats that can poison or destroy your cats and related O2 sensors. Those "octane" boosters are even worse, SubieSport's Legacy needed to put some in once and it totally carfucked the O2 sensor when they were on the track, though I suspect their use of leaded gas also helped to kill it. Well, I called the dealership up today and I'm bringing it in tomorrow. They said that if it is the cat, then all parts and labor are covered under warranty, so that's good at least. Here's hoing it's that so I'mnot out $120 for an 02 sensor. That wasthe first time I used the fuel cleaner, and the CEL was already on, so I can't imagine it loving up the sensor just yet.
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Feb 23, 2009 15:38
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The flipside is insurance; I was once quoted $6600/yr to insure a 9-2X Aero. What the Christ, do you have loving five DUIs or something?!
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Feb 23, 2009 16:04
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TurboLuvah posted:What the Christ, do you have loving five DUIs or something?! Keep in mind this is with collision, and I only tried a handful of insurers. Like I said earlier, I suspect this is expensive unique parts, or their records show that three people had Aeros and two of those three people cracked them up. My "grid position" will probably get better next year. For comparison's sake, some other insurance quotes from the same insurer (with collision, liability and comprehensive insurance): '94 Miata: $2168/yr '04 Forester: $3598/yr '04 GTI: $3705/yr '99 2.5RS: $3967/yr '02 2.5TS: $3043/yr It seems to be the case with most insurers; almost everyone I know is just running liability ($1426) and comprehensive (about $80/yr) on their cars. On the plus side, I could probably plow through a Mazda dealership and my rates couldn't go up much higher. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Feb 23, 2009 |
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Feb 23, 2009 17:06
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I almost bought a Saabaru about a month ago. They're normally priced a few grand lower than a WRX, even though they have a lot of upgrades. At the time I was quoted $136 a month for a WRX, and $97 a month for the saabaru. Full Coverage.
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Feb 23, 2009 19:06
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I went and checked out the 98 impreza outback sport with 128k miles going for 4500 on craigslist. Kbb is around 4300 in perfect condition and 3900 in good. There's a little damage on the driver side rear and she offered to "take off a few hundred bucks" because that's what she was quoted. She said she would take it down to 4300. Doesn't that look like more than 200 bucks damage? She had a very interesting story like some jerk hit her but she didn't want to report it to her insurance. It was my first time behind the wheel of a 5sp since my GTI 5 years ago, but it was like riding a bike. Fun little ride with good suspension and very responsive turning. Had no problem zooming up to 75mph merging on the highway, pretty awesome. She said the plugs were just done and all the maintenance was performed on schedule because she was planning on keeping this car for ever. until she got pregnant, now she wants to sell. I'm thinking of offering her 3500. Is that too much? Too little?
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Feb 23, 2009 23:24
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3500 sounds like a good starting point. Paint alone starts at $200 at any decent shop (unless you "know a guy", but I'm assuming you don't). This damage requires metalwork, so it'll be more I'd imagine. Perhaps you can take it to a shop of your choice for an estimate?
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Feb 24, 2009 02:11
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TurboLuvah posted:What the Christ, do you have loving five DUIs or something?! seriously, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that much... I'm with Progressive and they quoted me a little less than it would be for a WRX (neither of which are anywhere near $6600/year)
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Feb 24, 2009 03:20
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Okay, this is really stupid, but I know that Imprezas have a reputation as "lego cars." How far does this association actually go? Can I buy a '98 Brighton, remove its naturally aspirated EJ22 and transaxle and drop in a 2.0L JDM STI engine, transmission and wiring harness and expect it to work? From what I can see from introductory poking around nasioc and the like, the big deal is setting up the ECU properly so the engine works (some JDM pulls here come with an ECU included). I'm not sure about the physical dimensions, personally; it seems like I'd need a new engine mount of some kind at the very least in order to accommodate the missing 200cc of motor. I've seen successful turbo swaps for 2.5RSes, but not very many for 2.2Ls, and most swap threads I've found so far are devoid of specific details. I have heard of EJ22 turbos, but they're rare (I think even the 1993 JDM WRX has an EJ20). I'd probably also need to move around some other stuff in the engine bay in order to fit it (and possibly locate 2.0L specific gubbins like power-steering pumps, alternators, belts, not to mention the manifolds). I'm assuming this is not something that a guy whose only experience with engines is replacing head gaskets can accomplish with a 12-pack and rented lift, so this post is more of curiosity than undertaking it as a serious project. If it actually is pretty easy, I can start to look into it but otherwise it would most likely be cheaper and less stressful to simply keep looking for a nice WRX - I don't think an engine-swapped turbo hellion is an appropriate daily driver. I'm asking because I've found a beautiful 1998 Impreza Brighton wagon that has a great, super low-mileage body but the 134bhp EJ22, while bulletproof, doesn't seem to have a great reputation for performance. There's also a shortage of local crate motors, and the only JDM motors available at the moment are NA 2.5Ls. Inspections are not a problem; we do not have regular safety or emissions inspection. tl;dr: EJ20t into '98 GC wagon, how insanely stupid is this? edit: When the H6 was being discussed in the Subaroyota RWD thread, it was mentioned that the H6 is not much longer than the H4 block. Is it the case that most Subaru motors are about the same physical external size, and the difference in displacement comes from the internals (bored out)? edit 2: I probably need the EJ20 specific fuel pump as well, I don't think the old pump can crank out dead dinosaur fast enough to keep the turbo mill happy. MMD3 posted:seriously, it shouldn't cost anywhere near that much... I'm with Progressive and they quoted me a little less than it would be for a WRX (neither of which are anywhere near $6600/year) Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Feb 24, 2009 |
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Feb 24, 2009 22:20
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every EJ-series motor and transmssion will physically swap between every other EJ car. They did change the bellhousing from 4-bolt to 8-bolt in 99, but you can still interchange between the two although in some cases you have to fab some stuff up for the starter. Turbo and non-turbo crossmembers are different but interchange between chassis. Bolting it in is the easy part. The hard part is wiring between the engine harness (which is almost entirely on the intake manifold) and the ECU.
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Feb 24, 2009 22:32
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jamal posted:every EJ-series motor and transmssion will physically swap between every other EJ car. They did change the bellhousing from 4-bolt to 8-bolt in 99, but you can still interchange between the two although in some cases you have to fab some stuff up for the starter. Oh god the wiring harness...what a nightmare. 
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Feb 25, 2009 00:30
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For some people it is. It's not too bad if you have realistic expectations going into it, and a big space that you can occupy with wires for a while. Label things profusely when you remove it from the car, lay it all out, unwrap everything identifying and labeling as you go, carefully check, double check, and triple check which wires will be cut/removed/added/merged and label them. Then one wire at a time, perform the surgery, check the connection, and label it. Repeat for all operations on the harness, then wrap the wires, and label wires/connectors as necessary, and test continuity. Then just plug it in. Pretty easy really.  The best advice I've been given on this subject is this: If you think you can't do it, then you can't do it.
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Feb 25, 2009 00:50
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Some insurance companies are just plain retarded. Earlier this decade I switched to the insurance broker my mom uses for her business and was paying around $2200/year for a 1992 plymouth acclaim. About 6 months in they decided to up my rate to $2500 for no reason. I said nuts to that and started looking around for quotes. First stop? My dads insurance broker, who always told him that I should contact them. They wanted $3000/year. I ended up going to a small local broker who initially quoted me $1200. When I picked my jaw up off the floor I signed up with them, and 30 days later I got a letter saying my rate had dropped to under $700. What the gently caress? Now I drive an 02 Mazda Protege which is around $1100/year and I've been quoted $1300 for a 2009 Subaru Impreza sport hatch OR a WRX. The difference in price is less than $100.
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Feb 25, 2009 04:23
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Brought the car into the dealership today. He said both cats needed replaced. Luckily, it's all covered so no charge to me. He said I need to get the 60k maintenance done ASAP because that could have helped cause the cats going out. My car has 67k on it, and when I checked what the 60k maintenance is...I'm a little skeptical it needs it, especially for the pricetag of 500 bucks. It is basically a full fluid flush and replacement of spark plugs...all which I can do on my own for WAY less than 500 bucks.
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Feb 25, 2009 05:29
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Hello, 95L to 05 STi complete swap owner here. I purchased the GT Spec trunk cage a while back and haven't installed it yet. Recently I saw that a vendor on rs25 is now selling a x-brace for the gc chassis. I know the x-brace is quite popular amongst STi owners, especially on the iwsti forum. Would any suspension buff care to comment on whether there would be any beneficial difference of the x-brace over the trunk cage?
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Feb 25, 2009 06:22
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is the trunk cage to protect your golf clubs in a rollover or something? Any chassis stiffening past the suspension mounting points is pretty much useless. i.e. trunk bracing.
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Feb 25, 2009 06:30
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nwin posted:Brought the car into the dealership today. He said both cats needed replaced. Luckily, it's all covered so no charge to me. He said I need to get the 60k maintenance done ASAP because that could have helped cause the cats going out. My car has 67k on it, and when I checked what the 60k maintenance is...I'm a little skeptical it needs it, especially for the pricetag of 500 bucks. It is basically a full fluid flush and replacement of spark plugs...all which I can do on my own for WAY less than 500 bucks. This link has the full service schedule: http://scom-qa.subaru.com/owners/schedules/schedules.jsp?schedulepage=2004myfed.html Summary of 60,000 mile service: Inspect timing belt and accessory belts, adjust/replace if necessary (not mandatory till 105,000 mile service) Oil change with filter Replace fuel filter Replace air filter Replace spark plugs Inspect Differential and AT (if applicable) fluids. Full flush of brake fluid (do this to maintain brake performance, and extend the life of the pistons in the calipers) Inspect all brake components, adjust parking brake Inspect clutch, steering, etc. systems. One thing I would recommend is also flushing the fluid in your hydraulic clutch system if equipped. The fluid degradation is not nearly as noticeable in the clutch performance, but if not flushed occasionally debris will collect in the slave cylinder and accelerate wear causing eventual failure. I'm not saying that it will happen right away, but if you just take 10 minutes to do it you might save yourself an inconvenient parking lot repair down the road a ways(ask me how I know).
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Feb 25, 2009 07:21
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Subaru dealership near me has an 06 WRX STI with 23,000 miles on it for sale. He's asking $25,600 for it. He wants to give me $5700 on my 2002 Frontier XE Crew Cab with 57,000 miles. KBB values it at $7500 for "good" condition trade in. Needs tires and a windshield. Tires are balanced out by the STI needing tires soon too. Test drove the STI for about 20 miles, felt good, although it was my first time in one. Couple questions: The salesman told me the previous owner (who bought it from that dealership) ran 87 octane in the car. Any potential long term damage here? At idle there was a significant rattle from the rear, possibly the exhaust? Any throttle made it go away. Is normal/common? -edit- Appears to be a common issue with a heat shield, and easily fixable. How much should I offer him, and how much should I ask for on my truck? The biggest thing stopping me is the lowball offer on my truck. Sipher fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Feb 25, 2009 |
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Feb 25, 2009 15:29
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Personally that's at least $5000 more than I would pay for the car. If it's 110% perfect inside and out, with dealer performed oil changes documented, no aftermarket parts on the vehicle currently or ever, and they fix the exhaust rattle, it might be worth it if there are no clean private party STIs within 200 miles of you. If it were me I'd start with 2k off the asking price, then drop the price to cover the new tires. Also look into the warranty coverage, and confirm that it's still in effect. Check to see if any service bulletins apply to the car and confirm that they were performed. If they're saying only $5700 for the truck because of tires and the windshield, go buy tires and get your insurance to replace the windshield.
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Feb 25, 2009 15:44
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I live on the outskirts of the Bay Area, so theres quite a few cars around. I'm interested in, and willing to pay a little more for a dealer sold car just to get my truck traded in and save me the headache of selling it private party, then buying an interim car, and then finding a clean STI. Windshield + tires will cost me $900 on my truck, I'll have to consider that. Thanks for the input.
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Feb 25, 2009 15:49
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STi run on 87? Exhaust rattle? I wouldn't pay anywhere near that much for it. There were people who managed to get 2008 STis for only a few thousand over what they want you to pay for a 2006. The insane deals they had / have on STis these days kind of set a ceiling on used. It may have been $35k two years ago, but when you could get a new one this year for $5k less, it will accelerate the depreciation a bit.
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Feb 26, 2009 04:20
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I bought a '98 Legacy GT four years and four months ago, aware of the inevitability of eventual head gasket problems but kind of in denial about it because, well, I'm dumb and impulsive. Well, here we are, it's shot! Anyway, what's it really worth if I sell it in its current condition? It's got 132k miles, I've maintained it pretty well, the rear brakes were just done and the front brakes are in very good shape (had the rotors replaced 2 years ago.) As far as I know the catalytic converter is still good, I know that's another weak spot for that particular generation. It's got a few dings and minor body damage, the driver's door was backed into and is all warped but it's only cosmetic, some dickhead sideswiped me on the highway so my rear passenger side door doesn't close unless you really wail it. KBB value is $3660, but with the head gasket problem and apparently a bad wheel bearing I was thinking I'd be happy to get a grand for it. One of my friends seems pretty eager to pounce on it at that price, am I selling myself short? edit: I have two cousins who are long time mechanics and may be willing to fix this for me on the side for something like $20-30 an hour. I'm kind of set on buying an '04 Legacy now, but would I be better off just fixing this fucker and keeping it alive as long as possible (or selling it post-fix) if I could get the head gasket fixed for under a grand? I can afford the '04 no problem, but I wonder if I'm just being impulsive again. I guess this is more life advice than car advice but I'd appreciate any input. Delysid fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Feb 26, 2009 |
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Feb 26, 2009 17:30
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If you can swing it skip the 04 Legacy GT and go for the redesigned 05 Legacy GT with the 2.5 turbocharged motor. The 04 will be like your old 98.
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Feb 26, 2009 18:39
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When I bought my 09 WRX I fully intended to have the SPT cat back installed but I changed my mind at the last minute. Now I'd like to find an axle back exhaust. Which brands should I look at and which should I avoid.
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Feb 26, 2009 22:29
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TurboLuvah posted:If you can swing it skip the 04 Legacy GT and go for the redesigned 05 Legacy GT with the 2.5 turbocharged motor. The 04 will be like your old 98.
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Feb 26, 2009 23:13
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I got an absolutely immaculate 2005 STi with 15k on the clock for 27k. This car had NO mods, NO issues, NO problems carfax or w/e. This one was worth it. However this was a few years ago before the credit collapse, expect to pay significantly less for a car of that grade.
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Feb 27, 2009 01:51
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atomicfire posted:I got an absolutely immaculate 2005 STi with 15k on the clock for 27k. This car had NO mods, NO issues, NO problems carfax or w/e. Yeah, 12 months ago my buddy bought exactly what you just described for 17.5k
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Feb 27, 2009 05:13
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Sipher posted:Subaru dealership near me has an 06 WRX STI with 23,000 miles on it for sale. He's asking $25,600 for it. I bought an 08 at the end of November for about 2.5k more than that with options. And it had ~85 miles when I drove it off the lot. So yeah, if it hadn't been run on 87, I'd suggest offering 20k, but with the 87 news, I'd walk away. It isn't worth the risk and they're not going to want to budge on price very much. It's such a buyers market right now that you shouldn't have much trouble finding a good deal. Just watch iwsti and nasioc and I bet something you like will pop up.
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Feb 27, 2009 08:23
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I gently dropped my 9-2x Aero into a ditch today. Not much visible damage outside of the fairing/panel flapping a bit right behind the rear passenger tire. I tested it out once I was pulled from the ditch and it drove solid, so I decided not to go with the tow truck. I haven't been able to look underneath because its covered in mud. Can you guys think of anything that I should look out for?
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Mar 2, 2009 05:13
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How hard is doing a half shaft on an 02 Impreza? I've noticed some clunking on right turns when the car is cold in the morning and recently when I was rotating my tires I found quite a bit of play in the axle. The axle nut was tightened to take up the slack but I suspect the CV joint is going because the clunking on turns is still there.
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Mar 2, 2009 05:34
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Isaac Asimov posted:Can you guys think of anything that I should look out for? ditches
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Mar 2, 2009 05:58
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RealKyleH posted:ditches Wow. Well played. I was just checking in before going back to sleep, because gently caress trying to get to work in this weather (not concerned about my ability to get there safely, but the ability of everyone else to get there without hitting me) and this post woke me up from laughter.
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Mar 2, 2009 14:09
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RealKyleH posted:ditches I'll second this. 
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Mar 2, 2009 16:55
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IIRC both these Subies in ditches incidents were caused by unexpected snow weather (in Isaac Asimov's case, in NC). So just remember to drive slower and don't rely on the AWD to get you out of trouble, especially if you don't use snow tires.
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Mar 2, 2009 17:07
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kimbo305 posted:IIRC both these Subies in ditches incidents were caused by unexpected snow weather (in Isaac Asimov's case, in NC). So just remember to drive slower and don't rely on the AWD to get you out of trouble, especially if you don't use snow tires. Very true. AWD will allow you to accelerate much faster in poor traction, but it isn't going to help you stop any quicker.
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Mar 2, 2009 17:23
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RealKyleH posted:ditches
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Mar 2, 2009 17:45
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kimbo305 posted:IIRC both these Subies in ditches incidents were caused by unexpected snow weather (in Isaac Asimov's case, in NC). So just remember to drive slower and don't rely on the AWD to get you out of trouble, especially if you don't use snow tires. I was on a little 2 lane road trying to find a good spot to turn around and kept missing little driveways. I decided I wasn't missing the next one, slowed down quite a bit and turned into the next one on my left hand side. The way the turn was set up, I thought I could see grass to the right of the narrow gravel driveway, so I wasn't too worried about getting right on the gravel. I guess my front right tire floated over the ditch, and when my rear right tire got there, I slid the rest of the way in. I'm probably lucky I didn't end up sideways, and I'm very very lucky that aside from that rear bumper flapping a little, nothing seems to be wrong with the car(so far).
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Mar 2, 2009 17:52
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atomicfire posted:Very true. AWD will allow you to accelerate much faster in poor traction, but it isn't going to help you stop any quicker. Good dedicated snow tires will actually help you slow down/stop faster in the snow as a result of the soft rubber compound and the massive amounts of sniping on the tires.
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Mar 2, 2009 18:05
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