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Well take a flashlight and look thoroughly at everything under the hood. If they did the headgasket hopefully they were smart enough to not reuse the profile gasket.
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Mar 1, 2009 00:35
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I drive an E30 318iS with M42 engine. Sometime this week I started to notice a tapping sound that would randomly come and go. It sounded like it was coming from in/under the intake manifold. I can't seem to make it occur on cue (under load or something), but noticed if I lift off then back on the gas, it seems to go (most of the time). I changed the oil about 3-400kms ago and the oil level is fine. Any idea what it may be?
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Mar 1, 2009 00:38
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Axor posted:I changed the oil about 3-400kms ago and the oil level is fine. When you say the oil level is fine do you mean it's between the two marks? If so, try topping it up until it his the top mark and see if the noise goes away.
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Mar 1, 2009 01:02
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:When you say the oil level is fine do you mean it's between the two marks? If so, try topping it up until it his the top mark and see if the noise goes away. Yep, it was just under the top mark. I topped it up a little and will see how it goes.
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Mar 1, 2009 01:53
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Jonny 290 posted:I would be happy to but you're on the wrong side of the country If the head gasket has been changed, that usually means "profile gasket" with these cars, as that's what fails. Double check the work order to be sure. The M42 is a pretty reliable engine, but after you buy it, drop the oil pan and make sure the oil pump bolts are tight. Most people find a couple bolts lying in the bottom of the pan. Not a good thing. I've been putting off checking mine for too long... Listen for a whine in the rear diff too. Kinda sounds like a high pitched grinding noise, like Dremel tool, but more subtle. Other than that, it's the usual BMW suspension wear issues (bushings, shocks, ball joints).
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Mar 1, 2009 03:28
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Awesome, thanks. I am going to try to be very objective tomorrow, but I hope it turns out well.
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Mar 1, 2009 04:01
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Someone locally is selling an '84 grey market 745i for next to nothing. On a scale of 1-10 how terrible of an idea is it to buy this thing and start restoring it? I could imagine finding parts would be a nightmare.
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Mar 1, 2009 15:01
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Jadius posted:Someone locally is selling an '84 grey market 745i for next to nothing. On a scale of 1-10 how terrible of an idea is it to buy this thing and start restoring it? I could imagine finding parts would be a nightmare. Define "next to nothing". Parts are the same as for any E23 7-series and you can get just about everything from your dealer. The engine parts will be special order from Germany, but you can still get them. You also have to define "restore". E23 7s, even the 745i, aren't worth very much, even in great condition. If you do it, it would be for your enjoyment only. Only you can say how much that is worth to you.
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Mar 1, 2009 15:51
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How reliable are e30s? I found a nice looking 1989 320i with 150k miles on it. Interior looks good, paint looks good. What should I look for in this car? I know nothing about BMWs, even less about cars that are 20 years old.
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Mar 1, 2009 16:55
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Brock Landers posted:Define "next to nothing". Parts are the same as for any E23 7-series and you can get just about everything from your dealer. The engine parts will be special order from Germany, but you can still get them. You also have to define "restore". E23 7s, even the 745i, aren't worth very much, even in great condition. If you do it, it would be for your enjoyment only. Only you can say how much that is worth to you. $1000, and by restore I mean bring it back to a presentable state. At the moment it really looks 25 years old, and if I bought it I'd like to do something about that. I wouldn't be looking to sell it for profit or anything that deluded but just work on it as a weekend project/fair weather cruiser.
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Mar 1, 2009 19:58
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OxMan posted:Any cheap bolt-ons to get that 138hp up? I don't think so. You can pickup up a Downing Atlantic supercharge for a few grand, but that's about it. I haven't looked into it too seriously, but I've been reading 318ti.org and been on the Yahoo mailing list for a while and for more HP people either go with the SC or do an engine swap.
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Mar 1, 2009 20:57
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DASC's aren't sold anymore. You can only find them used.
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Mar 1, 2009 21:35
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Jadius posted:$1000, and by restore I mean bring it back to a presentable state. At the moment it really looks 25 years old, and if I bought it I'd like to do something about that. I wouldn't be looking to sell it for profit or anything that deluded but just work on it as a weekend project/fair weather cruiser. Well, the big money sinks on this car are the climate control system (it's a vacuum operated nightmare) and the exhaust system (it's heavy, expensive, and hard to replace). The engine is the M30 (which is bulletproof as long as you adjust the valves and change the oil) with a KKK turbo slapped on. The turbo as actually pretty reliable, but expect to pay big money to buy a new one. Also, vacuum leaks affect this car much more because of the turbo. You'll want to go through and replace every rubber hose under the hood. Finally, the suspension is likely to be shot if it's never been replaced. Bushings, ball joints, and shocks. Figure about $1000 in parts for the suspension alone.
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Mar 1, 2009 22:13
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Well, no dice. The E30 I went to look at was a HOOPTY. Homemade sheet metal fan shroud, trashed front bumper from an idiot tow, leaking antifreeze, leaking power steering, and it literally had a chunk of 2x4 with a hole drilled in it for a shift knob. The guy was standing firm at 1500 cash and I walked. The thing was sitting under a pecan tree for six months and he couldn't even be bothered to wash it - it looked AWFUL. Typical "trashed by a high school kid" car. The search continues...
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Mar 2, 2009 00:51
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Jonny 290 posted:Well, no dice. The E30 I went to look at was a HOOPTY. Homemade sheet metal fan shroud, trashed front bumper from an idiot tow, leaking antifreeze, leaking power steering, and it literally had a chunk of 2x4 with a hole drilled in it for a shift knob. Unfortunately, E30s are more and more falling into either the "trashed/modded by a high school kid" category or the "lovingly cared for (and priced accordingly)" category. Daily drivers in need of a little love are few and far between, or have a bazillion (huh, that's a word in the Firefox dictionary) miles on them. Good luck in your search.
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Mar 2, 2009 15:25
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So my key cylinder stopped working on my e36 325i last night. The car is stuck in the "On" position but the key moves freely from position "Off" to position "Start". The car stays on and the steering wheel unlocked even when the key is completely out. Luckily I can push start the car, and disconnect the battery go back to "on" mode when I reconnect. It appears to be a $500-$700 dealer fix, which hurts, but someone in this random thread seems to have a solution: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458275 Any reason not to try? It's not a very well documented problem/solution. Should I just bite the bullet? Can a key cylinder/tumbler replacement be done by an indie shop or is it strictly a dealer thing (like most key related stuff)?
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Mar 2, 2009 18:47
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Taking my E30 to a track day soon, what prep could anyone recommend?
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Mar 2, 2009 18:48
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Jonny 290 posted:Well, no dice. The E30 I went to look at was a HOOPTY. Homemade sheet metal fan shroud, trashed front bumper from an idiot tow, leaking antifreeze, leaking power steering, and it literally had a chunk of 2x4 with a hole drilled in it for a shift knob. I gotta be honest with ya, I lold at the shift knob. You should have taken pics!
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Mar 2, 2009 20:55
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case posted:Taking my E30 to a track day soon, what prep could anyone recommend? Change the oil and the brake fluid. Brake fluid is crucial, you're likely to be using the brakes quite a lot on your first track day, and you absolutely DO NOT want to boil the fluid. Boiled brake fluid feels like a squishy pedal with long travel, and badly boiled fluid can cause you to lose braking performance when you need it most. I recommend the ATE stuff all the Bimmer people use, but if you can't find it, the Valvoline Synthetic DOT4+ stuff is a cheap and good alternative. Check and recheck your tire pressures. Make sure all your lugs are torqued to spec + 3 ft/lb. Empty your car and trunk of trash. In fact, get your car washed. That's about all you absolutely NEED to do prior to a track day. Show up at the track prepared to listen to your instructor (no matter how good you think you are, he/she is WAY better than you) and you'll have a great time.
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Mar 2, 2009 20:58
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ynotony posted:So my key cylinder stopped working on my e36 325i last night. The car is stuck in the "On" position but the key moves freely from position "Off" to position "Start". The car stays on and the steering wheel unlocked even when the key is completely out. Luckily I can push start the car, and disconnect the battery go back to "on" mode when I reconnect. It appears to be a $500-$700 dealer fix, which hurts, but someone in this random thread seems to have a solution: Are you sure it's really toast? Mine has been half working for a while. Try twisting the steering wheel a bit and pushing the key in a bit harder. I've found for whatever reason that my car seems to care which side of the key is oriented when I make it work.
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Mar 2, 2009 21:22
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BraveUlysses posted:Are you sure it's really toast? Mine has been half working for a while. Try twisting the steering wheel a bit and pushing the key in a bit harder. I've found for whatever reason that my car seems to care which side of the key is oriented when I make it work. For the record, mine was half-working for awhile too, and the PO had installed a push-button ignition under the steering wheel that I use now that the cylinder has gotten worse. I can turn it to 'on' but when I try to go to ignition it seems to not make a very good contact or something, and it usually cuts off before the car starts.
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Mar 2, 2009 21:31
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BraveUlysses posted:Are you sure it's really toast? Mine has been half working for a while. Try twisting the steering wheel a bit and pushing the key in a bit harder. I've found for whatever reason that my car seems to care which side of the key is oriented when I make it work. When I get home I'm going to try using my spare key that I had freshly cut and haven't really used. I remember pushing it in as hard as I could last night as if the key needed to be just a mm further in to engage a mechanism but had no luck. I can spin the key freely though through all positions which makes me think something might be completely dislodged/broken. When you experience problems does the car ever remain in an "on" state even when the key is taken out?
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Mar 2, 2009 22:54
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Mine never got stuck in the on position, it will spin and not engage the steering lock unless I push in really hard while turning gently/jostling the key. I could shoot a quick video and email it to you if you want. OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Mar 2, 2009 |
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Mar 2, 2009 23:25
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case posted:Taking my E30 to a track day soon, what prep could anyone recommend? Make sure you have good pads on. I tracked my E30 with OEM BMW pads with 60% life left, and in 4 hours I was on the backing plates. And what sterndotstern said.
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Mar 3, 2009 00:21
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Well, I found a '95 325i that is about 3 hours from here for 4k with 4.10 LSD and fresh struts on it, and the guy has had dealer maintenance the whole time he's owned it with receipts. I'm going to make sure my bank will loan me the 3k difference between that and cash-on-hand (first financed car, gulp), and roadtrip up and take a look on Wednesday. It's no flat-black stripper E30 but I think I'll be pleased with it. *crosses fingers*
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Mar 3, 2009 02:44
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BraveUlysses posted:Mine never got stuck in the on position, it will spin and not engage the steering lock unless I push in really hard while turning gently/jostling the key. I tried a fresh key, I tried pushing it hard, no luck. I took apart the ignition switch, and noticed the cylinder wasn't turning properly with the key. I can start the car with the ignition switch, but of course now my steering wheel is locked so its useless. I think its dealership time for a new custom cut cylinder from germany. This is going to hurt plenty. Anyone know how to get the steering wheel to unlock? That would make life much easier because I could actually drive to the dealer.
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Mar 3, 2009 02:50
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A 4.10LSD is just hilariously inappropriate for a street driven E36. To put it into perspective you'll be turning 4500rpm @ 80mph, max out at 45mph in 2nd gear, and 70mph in 3rd at the stock 6500rpm red line. It should prove to be an absolute boatload of retarded fun for about the first week, then a major annoyance after that.
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Mar 3, 2009 02:53
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Hmm. I'll have to give it a shot (there is interstate nearby so I can test it at speed). Thank you for the heads-up, though. I am going to need it to make ~45 miles per day of 80mph commuting, and I'll keep that in mind. Is the price in line? 4k seems fair-ish depending on condition - he was full-disclosure about hail dings, tiny rust spots and such. It's still sight unseen by me, of course, and I'm just getting myself all fuckin' worked up about this one, but he had a good attitude and wasn't a retarded redneck about it like the last guy. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Mar 3, 2009 |
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Mar 3, 2009 03:09
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Jonny 290 posted:Hmm. I'll have to give it a shot (there is interstate nearby so I can test it at speed). Thank you for the heads-up, though. I am going to need it to make ~45 miles per day of 80mph commuting, and I'll keep that in mind. That said, swapping the diff is super duper easy in these cars, and a 4.10LSD made to mate up to an E36 should be easy to sell for a nice profit. There is no shortage of 3.15 or 3.23LSDs for E36s, with some 3.38s out there as well. You can also make your own 3.46LSD with a little know how (look back through my posts in this thread). All of those choices would be better suited to daily driver duties. 4.10LSDs only really belong on 4-cylinder BMWs, or 6-cylinder BMWs with 4-speed or less autoboxes.
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Mar 3, 2009 03:14
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I'm going to have to confirm that 4.10 ratio with him - I'm sure I'll know by the end of second gear for sure. Anyways, approved for the loan (yeah I'm a chump for needing financing on a 4k car but I would rather do that than clean out my liquid cash, and I will be paying it off within 6 months, so I'm not concerned about it) and pending vin/exact mileage to the bank and any nightmares when I test drive it, I should be an official BMW prick in 24 hours. Edit: Cashier's check is in my hand, this is so exciting. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Mar 3, 2009 |
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Mar 3, 2009 17:35
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Sterndotstern posted:Change the oil and the brake fluid. Brake fluid is crucial, you're likely to be using the brakes quite a lot on your first track day, and you absolutely DO NOT want to boil the fluid. Boiled brake fluid feels like a squishy pedal with long travel, and badly boiled fluid can cause you to lose braking performance when you need it most. I recommend the ATE stuff all the Bimmer people use, but if you can't find it, the Valvoline Synthetic DOT4+ stuff is a cheap and good alternative. Great advice, thank you. Just got my T1Rs fitted and balanced - good to go!
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Mar 5, 2009 03:44
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It is a done deal. I have a beautiful, babied and exclusively dealer-maintained Calypso Red '95 4-door E36 in my driveway and it is the most loving gorgeous, fun and comfortable thing I have ever driven. M5 (knockoff?) wheels, 245's in the back, 225's up front. The diff is not a 4.10 thank god, he was wrong on that - turns right around 3200-ish at 75mph. Amazed at the smoothness of the engine. I did 240 miles on the highway to bring it home and averaged 27.8 MPG at 72.1 average MPH according to the onboard computer, pretty got-drat amazing. Off to pass out after 500 miles of driving in one day and wake up early to take the long, curvy way to work.  edit: The ONLY niggle I have about the car is that it has the usual lovely USDM scratched-up headlights. Suggestions on affordable and good-looking replacements? I think new headlights would really make it pop.
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Mar 5, 2009 06:07
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Jonny 290 posted:edit: The ONLY niggle I have about the car is that it has the usual lovely USDM scratched-up headlights. Suggestions on affordable and good-looking replacements? I think new headlights would really make it pop. http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/E36_DEPO_European_Projector_Headlight_HID_Included-135-96.html
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Mar 5, 2009 06:25
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Jonny 290 posted:It is a done deal. I have a beautiful, babied and exclusively dealer-maintained Calypso Red '95 4-door E36 in my driveway and it is the most loving gorgeous, fun and comfortable thing I have ever driven. I want to relive the experience of bringing home my e36 nearly four years ago. Post pictures!
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Mar 5, 2009 06:38
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ynotony posted:I want to relive the experience of bringing home my e36 nearly four years ago. Post pictures! I will do so after a wash, claybar, and Forever Black tomorrow. Dude lived on a short bit of dirt road and there was still snow up his way (just SW of St Louis) so it's not too pretty right now. I just caught myself wandering outside in my PJ's to "get something out of the car" and staring at the drat thing for 5 minutes.
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Mar 5, 2009 06:51
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ynotony posted:So my key cylinder stopped working on my e36 325i last night. The car is stuck in the "On" position but the key moves freely from position "Off" to position "Start". The car stays on and the steering wheel unlocked even when the key is completely out... Verdict for any curious e36 owners. Keep this nugget of knowledge in the back of your head: From what I've gathered from my independent mechanic, the internet, and the dealer: the tumbler and steering lock assembly are common failures that occurs after N number of key turns. An inevitability, really - even the receptionist lady new exactly what my problem was when I described it over the phone. It can be accelerated by a heavy key chain and by doing that jerky steering wheel thing you need to do once in awhile to get the key to turn. A stubborn key is a warning sign. My car is a 1994 and failed at 115k miles, and luckily it happened while parked conveniently at home. Sometimes the two parts fail at the same time, sometimes one and then the other, but both will eventually fail - so most dealers and indie shops will recommend replacing both when either fails. Roughly $300 parts and 4 hours of labor because it involves taking apart the entire steering column and ordering a custom cut tumbler from Germany. Be gentle during insertion boys.
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Mar 5, 2009 17:40
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Jonny 290 posted:Calypso Red I hate you. As rare as Cirrusblau metallic is, I would trade it in a heartbeat for calypso red. Need some pics.
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Mar 5, 2009 22:49
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I posted this in the stupid question thread also, but BMW experience doesn't hurt 1985 BMW 325e After work today I drove the 1/2 mile to the Post Office. The car started normally, and it shut down normally. When I got back to my car, it took a while to start. I turned the key and it cranked but it never caught. After maybe 2 seconds of cranking, all of the dash lights turned on as though the car was started, so I let go of the key and the engine slowly crept up to idle (when I let go of the key the tach wasn't even registering anything, but it still took what felt like 2-3 seconds to get up to normal idle). This has happened more than once, and it seems to happen when I shut down a cold engine and try to restart it. Was my engine flooded? Does this mean too much fuel pressure? Too little?
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Mar 6, 2009 02:16
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two_beer_bishes posted:I posted this in the stupid question thread also, but BMW experience doesn't hurt From what I've heard that can be the fuel pressure regulator going bad. Also, I had KIND OF a similiar thing, and I just cleaned out my idle control valve.
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Mar 6, 2009 02:46
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TractionControl posted:From what I've heard that can be the fuel pressure regulator going bad. That wouldn't be bad since I have a new one waiting to go in. I'm nervous as gently caress to replace it since last time I replaced the FPR the drat thing blew up and started my car on fire  I'll take the brake cleaner to the ICV too, just in case. Thanks!
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Mar 6, 2009 02:57
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