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awapplesauce posted:I just StumbleUpon'ed this site and I'm totally joining up. They collect hand-knitted or crocheted bears and give them to children in third-world countries suffering from HIV/AIDS. Has anyone done this? thanks for sharing this, i'm going to join, too.
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Feb 4, 2009 21:50
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Hi knitters! I am going to start my first non-scarf project this weekend. This bag:  There are a couple rows I don't understand in the instructions: Row 1: (WS) K2, *(k1, p1, k1) in next st, p3tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. I don't get what the "(k1, p1, k1) in next st" means - can anyone explain? and Dec row: (WS) K2, *k1, p3tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2 — 42 sts rem. Loosely knit 1 row. How does this work? What happens to those 42 stitches remaining? The pattern is available for free, I found it on Ravelry. Just google "Knitting Needles Knitting Bag" if you're feeling curious or helpful. 
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Feb 6, 2009 03:27
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Rockets posted:Dec row: (WS) K2, *k1, p3tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2 — 42 sts rem. Loosely knit 1 row. The "42 sts rem." means that's how many stitches will be left on your needle at the end. When you "loosely knit 1 row" you'll be knitting those 42 sts. Do you keep the same needles IN the bag that you use to knit it? How novel!
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Feb 6, 2009 03:47
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Rockets posted:Hi knitters! All this means is that after you k1, don't drop the stitch from the left needle -- just purl into it instead, and then knit into it again. Then you can drop the stitch from the left needle. You're going to end up with three stitches instead of one from this.
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Feb 6, 2009 03:59
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teknicolor posted:The "42 sts rem." means that's how many stitches will be left on your needle at the end. When you "loosely knit 1 row" you'll be knitting those 42 sts. So after the first 38 stitches (it's 80 stitches in total I think), I flip over as if I'm at the end of the row and knit in the other direction? You use smaller needles for most of the bag and then 15s for the last two rows. You don't bind off and instead just apply some glue to the needles so the stitches don't slide off. I think it's a cute way to show my knitter pride. Z Is Overrated posted:All this means is that after you k1, don't drop the stitch from the left needle -- just purl into it instead, and then knit into it again. Then you can drop the stitch from the left needle. You're going to end up with three stitches instead of one from this. This makes sense now, thanks!
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Feb 6, 2009 04:32
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Rockets posted:So after the first 38 stitches (it's 80 stitches in total I think), I flip over as if I'm at the end of the row and knit in the other direction? No, you work the pattern all the way across the row, and when you're done, there will be 42 stitches remaining on your needle total. In other words, you knit 2 stitches, then you do the k1, p3tog all the way across until there are only two stitches to go, knit those, and you should have 42 on the right needle.
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Feb 6, 2009 10:29
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I'm now crazy about double knitting. Such an easy way to do color work without everything getting tangled. DNA scarf, of my own design: http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=20733534
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Feb 7, 2009 00:39
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TauntTheOctopi posted:I'm now crazy about double knitting. Such an easy way to do color work without everything getting tangled. DNA scarf, of my own design:
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Feb 7, 2009 01:04
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:That looks like a ton of amazing work -- how can you sell it for $48? Are you just trying to recoup yarn costs and not charging for your time? I'm not judging, just curious. Well, it took less time, effort, and yarn than it looks like, which is why I'm now in love with the technique. This is also my first item and I'd like to get a sale to get some momentum going. I was thinking of listing the next double knit scarf(s) at $60. Is that more reasonable?
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Feb 7, 2009 01:14
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TauntTheOctopi posted:Well, it took less time, effort, and yarn than it looks like, which is why I'm now in love with the technique. This is also my first item and I'd like to get a sale to get some momentum going. I was thinking of listing the next double knit scarf(s) at $60. Is that more reasonable? Pricing also depends on the yarn you used. What was it, or how nice was it? Obviously you'll save if you go with Red Heart, but you'll never convince anyone that's fashionable enough to justify real money, and I don't think it's pleasant to knit with either.
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Feb 7, 2009 01:31
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guaranteed posted:No, you work the pattern all the way across the row, and when you're done, there will be 42 stitches remaining on your needle total. Duh! I get it now  Thanks!
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Feb 7, 2009 04:03
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TTO, that's awesome!
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Feb 8, 2009 06:47
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I want to work on a cabled purse but I'm confused about this row (I'm a newbie): K7, put 3 stitches on scrap yarn, CO 3 new stitches, K6, P6, K6, put 3 stitches on scrap yarn, CO 3 new stitches, K7 So when it says put 3 stitches on scrap yarn, is that like slipping it on a cable needle? And the CO 3 new stitches means to make 3 completely new stitches using the working yarn yes? Then when I go to the next row, which doesn't have any particularly special direction, I'll work with all of the stitches, both the ones on the scrap yarn and the new CO, yes? Thanks in advance. I'm really eager to make my first purse if I can figure this stuff out.
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Feb 10, 2009 09:57
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I've made an Irish Hiking Scarf. It only took me 5 months. 
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Feb 10, 2009 16:43
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Midnight Sun posted:I've made an Irish Hiking Scarf. It only took me 5 months. wow that yarn is beautiful what kind/colorway is that?
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Feb 10, 2009 17:19
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teknicolor posted:wow that yarn is beautiful what kind/colorway is that?
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Feb 10, 2009 17:50
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tokidoki posted:I want to work on a cabled purse but I'm confused about this row (I'm a newbie): quote:And the CO 3 new stitches means to make 3 completely new stitches using the working yarn yes? quote:Then when I go to the next row, which doesn't have any particularly special direction, I'll work with all of the stitches, both the ones on the scrap yarn and the new CO, yes? We can be totally positive if we see it in context within the pattern, but right now I'm at least 90% sure. The pattern only allows for 38 stitches for the next row, right? And that looks great, Midnight Sun. I keep thinking about the matching armwarmers -- but there are also patterns for a matching hat, cowl, and even legwarmers. That cable pattern winds up looking really good; it just seems so repetitive it'd probably take me months too!
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Feb 10, 2009 21:05
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Anne Whateley posted:Yes, but onto bits of scrap yarn instead of a cable needle, because you aren't going to knit with them. Here are the two lines in question: Row 9: K7, put 3 stitches on scrap yarn, CO 3 new stitches, K6, P6, K6, put 3 stitches on scrap yarn, CO 3 new stitches, K7 Row 10: K1, P6, K3, P6, K6, P6, K3, P6, K1 By the way, what's a cable cast on?
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Feb 11, 2009 00:03
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Anne Whateley posted:And that looks great, Midnight Sun. I keep thinking about the matching armwarmers -- but there are also patterns for a matching hat, cowl, and even legwarmers. That cable pattern winds up looking really good; it just seems so repetitive it'd probably take me months too! The reason why this scarf took so long is firstly that I quit my job where I did most of my knitting (night shifts), then I've been busy moving out of the country and whatnot. But now I'm here in Qatar and have joined a knitting club, so now I've got my knitting mojo back.
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Feb 11, 2009 07:38
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tokidoki posted:Here are the two lines in question: Yep, you leave those alone, see how you are only k/p 38 in row 10? That means the 3 you move to the scrap/cable needle don't get knitted because you CO 3 to replace them. Personally I can't imagine what this pattern looks like, where do the scrap-yarn-sts go?? Is there a link to a pattern because now I'm pretty curious. Cable cast on can be found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/cast-on I use knittinghelp.com for all my knitting questions, they have videos, and most of them have both English and Cont. styles! hth
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Feb 11, 2009 14:32
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 I know there haven't been any replies for over a week, but I'm too drat proud of this guy not to post. Asstro Van fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Mar 6, 2012 |
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Feb 24, 2009 05:02
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Hahaha! That is too cute 
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Feb 24, 2009 09:27
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I'm coming to my wits end here. Where can I find a good place to order wool online? (that will ship to Canada) I was looking for Malabrigo yarn but I'm open to any website with a decent selection in various fibers.
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Feb 25, 2009 01:38
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Blue_monday posted:I'm coming to my wits end here. Where can I find a good place to order wool online? (that will ship to Canada) WEBS ships to Canada, although I don't know if it's much more costly or what. (yarn.com) Also Knitpicks, although they only sell knitpicks brand yarn, but it's amazingly cheap and quality so you might find something you like there.
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Feb 25, 2009 02:56
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Pickle Pie posted:
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Feb 25, 2009 03:48
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Pickle Pie posted:
 He's adorable! I want to make one now!
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Feb 25, 2009 06:10
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Thanks everyone! It really wasn't that hard to do, so it would be great to see a little army form in the thread. Zaftig posted:Oh, cute! Where'd you find that pattern? I only have the crocheted version: I found the pattern on ravelry, if you click the link under the picture you can go from there to the pattern page. If you aren't on ravelry, just try sticking EXTERMIKNIT into google.
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Feb 25, 2009 06:32
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Pickle Pie posted:
I'm making a black/gray version of him right now! I actually asked about it a page or so back. I'm stuck on the head, though. I'm trying to alternate colors to make the stripes, but I keep ending up with all one color on the outside and the other color on the inside. Any tips? (FYI: I haven't done much in the way of colorwork yet.)
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Feb 25, 2009 17:28
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Aardvarklet posted:I'm making a black/gray version of him right now! I actually asked about it a page or so back. I'm stuck on the head, though. I'm trying to alternate colors to make the stripes, but I keep ending up with all one color on the outside and the other color on the inside. Any tips? How are you doing your colorwork? I'm not sure how you're doing it that you'd get one on the outside and one inside. For the rings around the head I just did a normal color join to switch back and forth. Knittinghelp.com is super helpful with pretty much everything, just scroll down to "joining a new color yarn" and watch the duplicate stitch join video. If you meant the vertical stripes a bit lower, knittinghelp.com saves the day again. Scroll down to "how to knit with two colors at a time" and watch the stranding method video. I'm not terribly experienced so if someone else has a suggestion, feel free to chime in.
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Feb 25, 2009 21:46
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Pickle Pie posted:How are you doing your colorwork? I'm not sure how you're doing it that you'd get one on the outside and one inside. For the rings around the head I just did a normal color join to switch back and forth. Knittinghelp.com is super helpful with pretty much everything, just scroll down to "joining a new color yarn" and watch the duplicate stitch join video. Ah, yeah, I think it's the stranding stuff that I'm doing wrong. I wasn't sure what to call it to search for tips. Thanks! I will post my Dalek when he's finished. Did you have any issues with the stuffing showing on yours? My knit seems a touch loose--I'm using size 6 needles with Paton's Classic Wool--but there's no way I'm going to frog it and redo all those bobbles. I wonder what felting would do to it.
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Feb 26, 2009 02:07
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Aardvarklet posted:Ah, yeah, I think it's the stranding stuff that I'm doing wrong. I wasn't sure what to call it to search for tips. Thanks! I will post my Dalek when he's finished. The stuffing shows a bit, mostly down in the purled columns. It's not all that noticable though, so I just let it be. I used size 8 with Lion Brand Homespun, he's really soft and huggable if you ignore all of the evil.
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Feb 26, 2009 04:14
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Snail hat time! Made it for my *~curvy goon boyfriend~* (his fursona is a hermit crab)
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Feb 28, 2009 21:37
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Yay snail hat! I love that pattern. I will take this as an excuse to post mine as well (made for a friend's baby)!  
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Mar 1, 2009 12:32
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Longpig posted:Yay snail hat! I love that pattern. I will take this as an excuse to post mine as well (made for a friend's baby)! That's adorable! 
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Mar 1, 2009 22:42
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Owls! Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. hurray!
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Mar 1, 2009 23:13
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holy crap, so cool! Where'd you find the pattern? I bet my mom would love to make one of these.
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Mar 1, 2009 23:16
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Look Under The Rock posted:holy crap, so cool! Where'd you find the pattern? I bet my mom would love to make one of these. If you're on Ravelry, it's here http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/owls-2 If you're not, it's here http://needled.wordpress.com/designs/
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Mar 1, 2009 23:34
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So I'm working on my first lace project, http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring08/PATTlaminaria.html using 2 balls of Dream in Color Baby. After seeing my roommate's mishap with a clear delineation between balls on a sweater using Classy, I'm afraid of that happening and want to switch between the two every couple of rows... the question being, would carrying the yarn up the side be super noticeable in a lace project? If it helps, the color I'm using is Midnight Derby, which is much more subtle than most hand painted yarns, but I don't want to spend hours upon hours working on this thing and cursing it only to have it turn out beautiful... except for the line made where I switched balls. 
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Mar 2, 2009 21:16
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Phishi posted:So I'm working on my first lace project, http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring08/PATTlaminaria.html using 2 balls of Dream in Color Baby. After seeing my roommate's mishap with a clear delineation between balls on a sweater using Classy, I'm afraid of that happening and want to switch between the two every couple of rows... the question being, would carrying the yarn up the side be super noticeable in a lace project? If it helps, the color I'm using is Midnight Derby, which is much more subtle than most hand painted yarns, but I don't want to spend hours upon hours working on this thing and cursing it only to have it turn out beautiful... except for the line made where I switched balls.
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Mar 2, 2009 22:21
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Anne Whateley posted:If they're from the same dye lot, and they don't specifically tell you that every ball is a super-unique handpaint that can never be matched, and the skeins look identical when you hold them up together, I would just go for it. If all those things are true, then chances of a striking difference are low enough that I personally wouldn't find it worth the extra effort of switching every row. That said, if you're the play-it-safe type and you hate frogging, it can't really hurt. IIRC, Dream in Color doesn't have dye lots. What I would do is start a swatch with the end of your first ball then switch to the new ball halfway. If you can't tell where the join is, you are good. If you notice a difference, then alternate skeins for about 2 inches before using the new one. It would depend on the pattern, if you want to carry it along the edge or cut it and weave it in on every change.
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Mar 4, 2009 11:31
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