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Yeah, Dwayne's is the last remaining place to process it. I actually have a roll of exposed k64 (and 4 unexposed) I want to get developed, but goddamn it's expensive.
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Feb 28, 2009 04:19
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Reichstag posted:Yeah, Dwayne's is the last remaining place to process it. I actually have a roll of exposed k64 (and 4 unexposed) I want to get developed, but goddamn it's expensive. People on photo.net swear up and down that you can drop K64 off at Wal-Mart who then sends it to Dwayne's. It's apparently cheaper and takes slightly longer than sending to Dwayne's yourself. Source. (posted in 2007) Edit: My 12 rolls of Superia Reala 120 and 25 rolls of Arista.EDU ISO200 B&W 120 came in but it's raining and will rain all week. 
pseudonordic fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Feb 28, 2009 |
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Feb 28, 2009 07:05
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My printing has been improving. Started to use multiple filters printing on variable contrast paper. Sat in Borders and read about the technique; today I tried it out in the darkroom. While I was there I spoke with my photo teacher about it when he passed through and he recommended going with a #0 and #5 filter. Tried it out, and have been happy with the results so far. Anyone have any advice on techniques of printing with more than one filter? Here's a print at #3.5 from last week.  Right now I'm using my local community college darkroom which is equipped with Beseler 45 condenser enlargers. If I got my own enlarger at home such as a Beseler Printmaker or something sub $500, can I expect to produce prints of the same quality as the Beseler 45?
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Mar 1, 2009 07:19
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Unless you have an excess of cash, I wouldn't buy a new enlarger. You should be able to find a good used one for a lot less than what it would be new. I got mine, a Beseler 23C II with a dichro head, for $100 from someone who had no use for it anymore. As far as I know, split grade printing (which is what you're describing: using more than one filter) is only necessary if you cannot [easily] achieve the contrast you want using a single filter. I don't have personal experience trying the method, but I did look into it recently and it seems like it's a bit unnecessary. I haven't had a negative that wasn't easily printed simply using one. Some people do swear by it and print everything with that method, so whatever works, I suppose.
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Mar 1, 2009 07:54
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Reichstag posted:Anyone own a Leica M and need an ltm adapter? I've got a voigtlander 50/75 one I don't need I could let go pretty cheap... To be honest $40 is a price I'm willing to pay for a J-8 on a forum, but I have a feeling neither of us would want to go to the trouble or the cost of shipping it to Hong Kong.
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Mar 1, 2009 13:37
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zmikel posted:Anyone have any advice on techniques of printing with more than one filter?
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Mar 1, 2009 16:39
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breathstealer posted:To be honest $40 is a price I'm willing to pay for a J-8 on a forum, but I have a feeling neither of us would want to go to the trouble or the cost of shipping it to Hong Kong. Depends, what sort of trouble is involved?
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Mar 1, 2009 16:43
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Nedsmaster posted:I'm a photographer, and I recently got a whole bunch of slides and ancient negatives from my grandpa. I noticed that some of the slides, the really old ones, were done on real glass and with a metal frame. This poo poo does NOT degrade, I scanned these slides and they look like they could've been taken yesterday. Keep in mind this photo is from the mid/late 40s... It's likely from the mid-to-late 50's. Her glasses style wasn't around so much that early. Take care of your slides. I have my great-grandfather's glass mounts from the 30's. Before me, they were just shoved up in the attic.... Kodachrome DOES degrade - and to a point where the colour cannot be salvaged! pseudonordic posted:People on photo.net swear up and down that you can drop K64 off at Wal-Mart who then sends it to Dwayne's. It's apparently cheaper and takes slightly longer than sending to Dwayne's yourself.
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Mar 1, 2009 18:06
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pseudonordic posted:People on photo.net swear up and down that you can drop K64 off at Wal-Mart who then sends it to Dwayne's. It's apparently cheaper and takes slightly longer than sending to Dwayne's yourself. No experience with K64, but photo.net people also claimed cheap prices and good quality on having WalMart send out 120 color and 120 E6. My 2 local stores say they do no such thing, and don't even have an option for 120 in their pricing book for stuff they send out. Not saying some somewhere don't do it because WalMart has so many locations, but I'd call ahead.
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Mar 1, 2009 22:08
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I'm sure people know this, but as far as 35mm goes CVS is the cheapest. They do just the negatives for only $2.19.
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Mar 1, 2009 22:33
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Nedsmaster posted:I'm sure people know this, but as far as 35mm goes CVS is the cheapest. They do just the negatives for only $2.19. when I dont have darkroom access this is what I do, cheap color film and cvs negs only, winds up to be 5 bucks a roll by the time I get the negs back.
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Mar 1, 2009 22:37
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Jahoodie posted:No experience with K64, but photo.net people also claimed cheap prices and good quality on having WalMart send out 120 color and 120 E6. My 2 local stores say they do no such thing, and don't even have an option for 120 in their pricing book for stuff they send out. Not saying some somewhere don't do it because WalMart has so many locations, but I'd call ahead. My understanding is that Qualex is discontinuing service as of March 1st or 31st, Qualex was IIRC the outside lab for WalMart and pretty much anyone else, so it's going to be inhouse for the most part. I don't think I'd trust my 120 to the trained apes at Wally World anyway. We all may need to look into C41 at home out of necessity. Edit-I looked into this some more-and it may be Fuji that does Wal-Mart's outside processing. If you drop Kodachrome off, it goes to Fuji-then to Dwaynes anyway. I say cut out the middleman. Gnomad fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Mar 2, 2009 |
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Mar 2, 2009 00:39
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So, I'm going to be moving to San Francisco. I'm a pretty avid amateur photographer, although that's not why I'm moving to San Francisco. Right now I'm still in school so I have access to all of the school's photographic resources, especially: B&W processing capabilities, and both B&W and color darkrooms (and the capability to print 35mm, 120, 4x5, and so on). I am hoping to be able to keep using film while out on my own, but am rather afraid. I don't want to have to set up my own darkroom, as I probably won't have the free time to make it truly worth it. Are there places in San Francisco to print your own black and white? Color? How about 4x5 color negatives? I prefer film to digital but would rather not just scan all of my film, as in that case I'd just bite the bullet and use digital (which I can do, just prefer not to). Any advice about how people, in SF or any other city, handle this sort of dilemma would be greatly appreciated.
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Mar 2, 2009 02:33
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Reichstag posted:Depends, what sort of trouble is involved? Me paying another $20 in shipping, if I'm not calculating wrong. How much would it cost to ship, actually? Also not having Paypal would've been a problem but I just found out a friend of mine can help me out in that department.
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Mar 2, 2009 02:50
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Nedsmaster posted:I'm sure people know this, but as far as 35mm goes CVS is the cheapest. They do just the negatives for only $2.19. The CVS near me is terrible, they'll scratch negs and the scanner will cut off half the frame, etc. Edit: not all CVS's created equal
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Mar 2, 2009 03:10
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breathstealer posted:Me paying another $20 in shipping, if I'm not calculating wrong. How much would it cost to ship, actually? I can see not wanting to pay that kind of s+h just for a soviet lens.
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Mar 2, 2009 04:26
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The catalogue for another camera action is up. These days, 100SEK(Skr) = 11USD (yay crisis). All defect descriptions are in English, too. I shall see if I can't get my grubby paws on a Hasselblad for cheap. Snaily fucked around with this message at 11:18 on Mar 2, 2009 |
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Mar 2, 2009 11:11
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Snaily posted:The catalogue for another camera action is up. These days, 100SEK(Skr) = 11USD (yay crisis). All defect descriptions are in English, too. So how do you buy something from this auction? The prices seem amazing if that's not a typo.
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Mar 2, 2009 12:51
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I checked with a Swedish friend, those are starting prices. If you poke around on the website you can either bid in person or send them a letter with proof of ID, a telephone number and the lots you're interested, they'll phone you when the auctions start and you can bid over the phone. Personal experience tells me that the Swedish speak better English than most so there probably won't be any sort of language barrier.
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Mar 2, 2009 13:30
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Yeah, those are starting prices. They also have some fairly fishy extra fees tacked on: 20% + 40SEK in commission, +2.5% if you pay with a card. I'm not affiliated with them in any way - I've been and looked at the auction objects a few times so I can vouch for the fact that they actually exist and do business. Beyond that, you're on your own. Edit: I just saw that they've started having the ability to have people participating in the live auction online come the 13th. Check it out. Edit 2: I feel kind of bad I got your hopes up. Here are the clubbed prices for the three auctions they had last year, for reference: November 2nd June 15th 16 March 16th Snaily fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Mar 2, 2009 |
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Mar 2, 2009 15:45
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I gotta spot some 4x5 negatives, what type of pens work well? Will microns work?
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Mar 2, 2009 21:01
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I got a Yashica Lynx 5000 in the mail today from Ebay. The trouble is, either my battery is wrong or the lightmeter doesn't work. Two questions- first, has anyone else tried the 1.5V battery and faucet washer trick? Second, can someone else recommend a good semi-cheap replacement off KEH in case I can't get the light meter working? I was hoping this was going to be my carry-around camera, but I want a light meter for this task. Too bad KEH doesn't seem to carry Yashicas much, at least not 35mm ones.
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Mar 3, 2009 04:34
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hybr1d posted:I got a Yashica Lynx 5000 in the mail today from Ebay. The trouble is, either my battery is wrong or the lightmeter doesn't work. Two questions- first, has anyone else tried the 1.5V battery and faucet washer trick? Second, can someone else recommend a good semi-cheap replacement off KEH in case I can't get the light meter working? I was hoping this was going to be my carry-around camera, but I want a light meter for this task. Too bad KEH doesn't seem to carry Yashicas much, at least not 35mm ones. I just bought around 20 Varta v625Us for under a dollar a cell. They work very well in my gossen luna-pro. It is only reading about 1/3rd stop high.
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Mar 3, 2009 12:40
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Nedsmaster posted:I'm sure people know this, but as far as 35mm goes CVS is the cheapest. They do just the negatives for only $2.19. Will they do it without cutting the negatives? Last time I got film developed there they cut the negs diagonally across the borders which basically ruined 1/2 of all the shots (stips of 4).
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Mar 3, 2009 23:54
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I really like the look of this picture. I like the blacks and contrast. Is this achieved in the developing process?
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Mar 4, 2009 00:37
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CanuckBassist posted:I really like the look of this picture. I like the blacks and contrast. Is this achieved in the developing process? If that's a scanned film frame, then it's exposure + development. If it's a scanned print, it's exposure + development + print/enlargement technique.
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Mar 4, 2009 00:45
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pseudonordic posted:If that's a scanned film frame, then it's exposure + development. If it's a scanned print, it's exposure + development + print/enlargement technique. So it can be achieved through just exposure and film development? I'm going to try to learn to emulate this!
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Mar 4, 2009 00:55
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I'm no expert but the black levels seems to have been increased to clip away (rather smoothly) the area around the wheel, exposure was probably off the white paint, maybe a bit higher. It's possible curves were used to highten the asphalt instead of clipping it. I'm just assuming it was done digitally, I know even less about printing.
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Mar 4, 2009 08:02
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Is there a reason why I can't find HC-110 developing times for pushed tri-x 320? I can only find HC-110 times for pushed tri-x 400. I don't mind estimating developing times. I just hope there's no significant difference between the 320 and the 400 that makes the pushed 320 develop horribly in HC-110. I would try xtol, which Kodak has posted developing times for pushed 320, but its storage life seems very short for how much of it I would use over a period of time.
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Mar 5, 2009 09:47
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http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/kodak_tech/j24.pdf Bottom of page 4, not 3 unless you are using sheet film.
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Mar 5, 2009 10:45
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hybr1d posted:http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/kodak_tech/j24.pdf I only see the standard developing times. Am I missing something?
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Mar 5, 2009 19:10
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Oops, missed that.
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Mar 6, 2009 00:14
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Does anyone know of a good, practical tutorial on using the zone system? I was hoping to be super faggy with a 4x5 next week and try to see the difference in really controlling the process. Read the wiki but I feel it falls short of practical application.
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Mar 6, 2009 04:47
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In practice I don't really believe that the zone system is worth the time. Rating your film at half its speed, exposing for the shadows and underdeveloping by 10 to 15% will give you a very good, dense and workable negative in pretty much all situations. Worry more about bellows factor and reciprocity if you're the worrying type. edit: and that's not coming from some random internet douchebag like myself, that's coming from a famous photographer that has been making large format pictures for over 40 years. The XKCD Larper fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Mar 6, 2009 |
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Mar 6, 2009 05:28
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Depending on the film you use and the length of the exposure, you may need to worry about reciprocity failure.
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Mar 6, 2009 13:00
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a Wizards dick posted:In practice I don't really believe that the zone system is worth the time. Rating your film at half its speed, exposing for the shadows and underdeveloping by 10 to 15% will give you a very good, dense and workable negative in pretty much all situations. Worry more about bellows factor and reciprocity if you're the worrying type. This is sound advice, and I appreciate. But I guess I feel like a lot of the "rules of thumb" that develop, especially when dealing with LF, can be better understood if you really get the zone system and the constrast control it provides. I don't think I need the system to make good negatives, but I think it'd help me get a better grip on the process stuff. I feel like I have a dubious at best sense of how manipulating development effects the negative. Maybe I can fix that without doing the zone system?
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Mar 6, 2009 13:15
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Yay. Finally received my developing stuff. Now I just need the graduated cylinders to arrive. I also finally finished up my first roll of color film the other day. I was rather disappointed in how most of them turned out. I think my A-1 needs a CLA. On the outside it is beautiful, but sometimes the shutter will be really slow. Like about 1 second exposure, when it shouldn't be anywhere near that long. When I was taking the pictures I was hoping that it was just the mirror that was being slow, but looking at some of the pictures it was the shutter.
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Mar 6, 2009 23:45
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Wooh posted:This is sound advice, and I appreciate. But I guess I feel like a lot of the "rules of thumb" that develop, especially when dealing with LF, can be better understood if you really get the zone system and the constrast control it provides. I don't think I need the system to make good negatives, but I think it'd help me get a better grip on the process stuff. I feel like I have a dubious at best sense of how manipulating development effects the negative. Maybe I can fix that without doing the zone system? If you want to know how development affects the picture, all you need to do is make a few identical exposures and experiment with changing development ratios and times. When you contact print them and get them close to one another, you'll have several exposures giving real examples of what happens when you change it around.
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Mar 7, 2009 01:16
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Where does everyone store their unexposed film? I have looked around and some people say in their fridge, others a room temperature closet or bedroom. What do you do?
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Mar 7, 2009 21:17
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mine stays in my closet, which is about 45-50* farenheit. otherwise it would be in the fridge.
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Mar 7, 2009 23:09
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