|
I'm looking for some rangefinders now, something along the lines of Olympus 35rc. Any suggestions? edit I'm wishing that they can look as  as a black m5. Probably not.
porcellus fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Mar 8, 2009 |
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 00:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:06 |
|
|
mcosio posted:Where does everyone store their unexposed film? I have looked around and some people say in their fridge, others a room temperature closet or bedroom. In a ziploc bag in the freezer. Works great except for the fact that my freezer is full of film...
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 01:38
|
|
|
Well, got an Epson V500. It's slow, but I like the results.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 01:43
|
|
|
Random 4x5 question: I develop my own film (I shoot B&W), but I have a quandary. I use my schools development stuff, and usually this is fine. I shoot, I unload directly from the holders into the processing tank, and on my way. But right now I don't have access to developing tanks (spring break), and I have shot film. I want to be able to use the negative holders, but don't have any place to put the negatives. I don't have any unused boxes that negatives come in. Any advice? Do they make anything that's good at holding undeveloped negatives without scratching them?
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 04:13
|
|
|
put them in a bag then put that bag in a bag and put that bag in a box and put it in a dark place
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 04:41
|
|
|
a Wizards dick posted:put them in a bag then put that bag in a bag and put that bag in a box and put it in a dark place Hah, this was my fallback. I love photography. Wizards dick, just curious what kind of photography you do. You mentioned using LF professionally for quite a while, so I'm curious what you get paid to do with it  Right now I'm a student, will probably be a dedicated amateur for a while, would eventually like to make a living off of it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 04:44
|
|
|
I meant that that advice was coming from my teacher, who is a pretty famous photographer and knows a shitload about this sort of stuff. I'm actually just getting started with it. Nobody really makes a living off just photography.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 04:53
|
|
|
a Wizards dick posted:I meant that that advice was coming from my teacher, who is a pretty famous photographer and knows a shitload about this sort of stuff. I'm actually just getting started with it. Haha, there are a million caveats to that statement, but no use bogging down a post with my views on photography and the role I want it to play in my life 
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 05:01
|
|
|
a Wizards dick posted:Nobody really makes a living off just photography. Not only is there a living to be made via photography, but we even have our own very thread with a ton of suggestions here in SA. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2959985 I highly encourage you to read more before posting stuff like this. To add to the thread, I've started shooting/scanning with my 124G again, since the weather is cold enough to use my chemicals (long story).  A couple rolls of film and I remembered the lesson from way back about documenting exposure settings. I had two rolls that were completely underexposed and pretty much blank when shooting with studio flashes. It's worth noting that my digital camera at ISO 400 needs far less light than my TMax400 120 at ISO 400. Fun stuff, though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 05:18
|
|
|
My girlfriend is awesome and gave me my birthday present a month early, but she was so excited. She found a Nikon FG (with an AF 35-70 attached, somehow, but w/e), an old Vivtar 2800-D, case and straps at a flea market today for $90. The thing looks brand new. Even has working batteries in it. I've already shot half a roll of regular old color film I had on my desk. (and probably hosed up the exposure on the first few frames)  Can't wait to get back to school and run some black and white through it and get back into the darkroom. I can even use all my student newspaper's Nikon lenses thanks to the same mount. That said, how do you read and set the panel on the back of my new(old) Vivitar? It's got a panel like this:  Basically, how do I use this thing. I'm interested in using it as both an on camera on the FG and possibly off camera with a cactus trigger if I'm shooting digital. (I've never owned or used a non-digital era flash) Frinkahedron fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Mar 8, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 07:38
|
|
|
anyone that is looking for a film that can replicate the vibrance of slide should try kodak's ultra color 100. i'm simply blown away by this stuff, the saturation is incredible.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 08:22
|
|
|
Frinkahedron posted:My girlfriend is awesome and gave me my birthday present a month early, but she was so excited. She found a Nikon FG (with an AF 35-70 attached, somehow, but w/e), an old Vivtar 2800-D, case and straps at a flea market today for $90. The thing looks brand new. Even has working batteries in it. I've already shot half a roll of regular old color film I had on my desk. (and probably hosed up the exposure on the first few frames) First, set the small slider at the top (iso) to the appropriate film speed. In the window under the ISO slider, you'll see the "auto f" number, depending on if you are using the A1 or A2 setting on the flash. Set the f-stop on the lens to that number and set your shutter speed to 1/60 or 1/125 or whatever an FG synchs at, those 2 shutter speeds will be pretty good bets though. Push the lightening bolt button, if the auto check lights green the flash is going to provide sufficient light for the distance. With luck, the AF lens has actual f-stops-some of the Nikon AF lenses don't have an f-stop ring, "G" series lenses are so afflicted. They still work but don't stop down so you would always be shooting them wide open. If you had a Minolta, Pentax or Olympus, that flash would do auto flash through the lens, which is what the little MPO in the upper right corner is all about. There is a Nikon version of that flash, if you can find it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 09:42
|
|
|
Gnomad posted:First of all, nice score! This is good poo poo. Thanks. The lens is this one. Ebay has some going for  , so it's nothing special. I can get my hands on good lenses back on campus when I want to.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 10:00
|
|
|
Nedsmaster posted:anyone that is looking for a film that can replicate the vibrance of slide should try kodak's ultra color 100. i'm simply blown away by this stuff, the saturation is incredible. um, the UC line is being discontinued in favor of the new Ektar line, iirc.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 11:49
|
|
|
Reichstag posted:um, the UC line is being discontinued in favor of the new Ektar line, iirc. If you look on Kodak's website, you'll see that it's actually now a consumer film, not a professional one. Anyway, UC400 and UC100 are cheap as hell now in Japan. I bought a 5 pack for around 2300yen.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 12:02
|
|
|
mcosio posted:Where does everyone store their unexposed film? I have looked around and some people say in their fridge, others a room temperature closet or bedroom. freezer
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 17:21
|
|
|
I found a bag of "Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent" on a chair in my school. I have 2 boxes of polaroid 55 and I read on some nerdo forum that kodak hypo clearer works for clearing 55. Does anyone know what duration I need to keep it in the hypo for? Does temperature matter? If i'm shooting outside and want to use it can I just put the negatives in a tupperware filled with this stuff?
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 19:27
|
|
|
I was given a roll of 35mm Kodak Gold 200 today. God knows how old it is. I tried to put it in a toy camera I have but the film keeps cracking when I try to twist it on. Is this roll totally hosed if it is that dry? I have another camera that doesn't require the twist lock that I would like to try it in when it has space.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 19:35
|
|
Associate Christ
|
a Wizards dick posted:I found a bag of "Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent" on a chair in my school. I have 2 boxes of polaroid 55 and I read on some nerdo forum that kodak hypo clearer works for clearing 55. Does anyone know what duration I need to keep it in the hypo for? Does temperature matter? If i'm shooting outside and want to use it can I just put the negatives in a tupperware filled with this stuff? edit-OK, that's weird stuff. From what I just found, you might want to use some fix first before using the HCA. I wouldn't use the clearing agent outside unless you live very close to normal room temps, 65-75º or so. Gnomad fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Mar 8, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 20:31
|
|
|
funnily enough, there was a full bottle of Kodafix right next to the bag of hypoclear, so I have that now too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2009 23:23
|
|
|
HPL posted:Well, got an Epson V500. It's slow, but I like the results. I am using the same scanner. 35mm black and white negatives (ilford HP5+) look awful fuzzy unless I put the unsharp filter on medium/high. Is it ok to be doing this?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 00:17
|
|
|
a Wizards dick posted:funnily enough, there was a full bottle of Kodafix right next to the bag of hypoclear, so I have that now too. I think you should take that as a sign.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 01:08
|
|
|
This is old film. I have no idea of how old it is. By guessing from the stuff I got with the film, as in cans of Dektol, I'm thinking at least 20 years, maybe 30? I exposed it at ASA 50 in a Canon Rebel 2000, which I wanted to make sure was working before I sold it. 6 minutes in straight D76, lather, fix, repeat and I get this sort of imagery.   I'm finding it cheaper to buy film Canons than to buy the lenses, at least until the pawn shops and second hand stores figure out that the lenses work on the digital models. I have no idea how much is left in the loader. I almost wonder if I shouldn't save some of it for special occasions.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 03:41
|
|
|
Well, I guess I'm the impulsive type. I've wanted to do a lot more in the vein of studio portraits, and the current crop of DSLRs really haven't impressed me, so I started researching medium format options. That started to seem a bit like a compromise to me, and long story short, I now own a Sinar F2 4x5 Field Camera. It's been years since I've been in a darkroom, and I'm probably not going to go back now; I intend to have my film lab developed (I'm in NYC, so this is a local option), then scanned, and take it through my digital workflow from there. Still, I feel like I'm falling down a rabbit hole into some serious, serious stuff. I think I have, or am in the process of getting all the gear I'm going to need to get started with my Sinar (tripod, loupe, hood, holders, etc) -- but I'm wondering if anyone has any pointers for a newbie to large format. I've shot 35 a lot, and spent a few years doing the darkroom thing, but that was years ago, and I've been digital for a long time. Has anyone had distinctly good/bad experiences using a DSLR as a polaroid to check exposure? Oh, and one practical question: If I don't use Quickload film, what do I store/transport my exposed film in when taking it to the lab?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 03:56
|
|
|
thetzar posted:Well, I guess I'm the impulsive type. I've wanted to do a lot more in the vein of studio portraits, and the current crop of DSLRs really haven't impressed me, so I started researching medium format options. That started to seem a bit like a compromise to me, and long story short, I now own a Sinar F2 4x5 Field Camera. LF is not as hard as it seems, it's just slower because there are more steps involved. When I had a DSLR, I used it as a meter for a while. It worked out okay, but carrying around a big camera that only acts as a meter is annoying. Sell some of your gear and get a decent light meter. Most people I know put their exposed film in another 4x5 box. As far as technical pointers, learning how to use movements and how bellows factor affects your exposure is about all you need to know.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 04:46
|
|
|
I've literally never had a good experience in a camera store. Just yesterday I went to Hooper Camera in Chatsworth, CA (Los Angeles county). I walk in looking to buy some film. Me: Hi, I'm looking for some slide film. Do you think I could get the prices on that Ektachrome and the Elite Chrome? Guy: *sigh* *scans items* They're $14 a roll. Me: Oh, wow. I wasn't prepared to spend that much on a roll of film. I'm just going to look around for now. 10 minutes later. Me: Hi, I've heard really good things online about that Fuji Neopan 1600. Have you tried it? Guy: This is a camera store. We don't test film here. Me: Oh, sorry, I figured you'd know. Guy: *puts his head down and shakes it* Me: Uh... Guy: Are you going to buy anything? Me: ...sir, your demeanor is one that is pressuring me into purchasing something and I don't appreciate it. Guy: Well you can think what you want about my demeanor, but when I was your age I knew to not ask stupid questions in a camera store. I was published when I was 18. What are you? Me: I'm sorry I'm not as professional as you are. Guy: Evidently. Me: Just give me the film and let me leave. Guy: Why don't you try to steer clear from society's addiction to instant gratification, taking your pictures and looking at the back of your camera? Me: I wouldn't be buying film if I felt like that. Goodbye. Then the guy tried to give me a speech about not developing with Xtol because "only amateurs use that" and how to turn my camera off automatic, assuming that I knew nothing about photography. What a jerk. I don't know why EVERY time I go into a camera store, I get helped by an elitist who ends up being the ultimate douche. I was watching him do the same thing to other customers. Why is this industry so prone to faggotry?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 19:15
|
|
|
If you're in LA you owe yourself the trip to Freestyle's store in Hollywood. All the employee's I've dealt with have been super kind and super helpful. That's a really lovely customer experience you've had. =/
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 19:56
|
|
|
From a retail perspective, it's also worth calling back to the store and nicely asking for the manager/owner's contact info. I don't know if they care, but douchebag employees deserve to be ratted out to the owner. A manager will give them a warning, or let them go if there's been multiple complaints in many retail stores. If you are lucky enough to get the owner, they will usually drop the employee like a bad habit. I hate to suggest doing that to someone, but camera stores are 99% customer service. The only reason I deal with the horribly inflated prices on some things for my local shop is the customer service. Also, +1 to Freestyle. Even their mail order customer service has been great for me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 20:32
|
|
|
Can anyone tell what model camera this is?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 21:05
|
|
|
^^^^ Looks like rangefinder. I'm guessing for that particular photographer, price wouldn't be a problem seeing he has a 1D camera, so it's probably Leica or maybe even Voigtlander. However, I've never seen the back of a camera open up like that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 21:08
|
|
|
With the tulip pattern take up spool on the diagram I'd guess it was a newer Leica. I think it has to be an M4 or newer, but it looks pretty much like an M6/M7. ^^^^ It's not a Voigtlander Bessa, they don't load from the bottom (or at least the modern 35mm ones don't.) Also the earring and long hair suggest it's a she, not a he. I feel like a detective! TokenBrit fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Mar 9, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 21:11
|
|
|
hybr1d posted:Can anyone tell what model camera this is? looks like Annie Leibovitz and i know she shoots with either an m6/7
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 21:54
|
|
|
Nedsmaster posted:Guy: Well you can think what you want about my demeanor, but when I was your age I knew to not ask stupid questions in a camera store. I was published when I was 18. What are you? This is where I would ask him what the gently caress he's doing working in a camera store if he's such a successful special snowflake.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 23:26
|
|
|
johnasavoia posted:looks like Annie Leibovitz and i know she shoots with either an m6/7 It's her- I was more interested in the camera. I feel like it's a trap of a question, but why so much for a Leica? Are they worth it? I'm interested in them if they're reliable, which I can only assume that workmanship is the driving factor for the newer models, since they don't use magical film.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 23:38
|
|
|
hybr1d posted:It's her- I was more interested in the camera. I feel like it's a trap of a question, but why so much for a Leica? Are they worth it? I'm interested in them if they're reliable, which I can only assume that workmanship is the driving factor for the newer models, since they don't use magical film. In a lesser forum, asking if Leicas are worth it would likely cause some sort of shitstorm. Short answer is no, they're not worth it (especially new). They are, however, very nice. None of their competitors are solid-feeling (or heavy) and they have a certain M body cachet. They are extremely reliable since most of them are all-mechanical and well-made, but they do need periodic expensive service. Leica do make some incredible lenses for their rangefinders, but the prices on those are again a bit silly and you can use them just as well on a Bessa/Ikon/Hexar (Japanese made cameras with the same lens mount). I'm only talking about the film models though. I haven't used an M8 or M8.2, so I can't speak to that, but they do cost WAY more than an R-D1 and have worse high-ISO performance. gib fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Mar 9, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2009 23:42
|
|
|
Is buying 35mm film in bulk and loading the cartridges myself worth it? I was reading about it today and while it seems like a nice idea, there doesn't seem to be a perfect solution to reusable cartridges. http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps%20how%20load%20bulk.html http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps%20how%20choose%20cassetes.html This is the site I was reading, it seems quite nice. edit: Also, I have been buying Ilford HP5+. Freestylephoto.biz has tons of 400iso film, most of which I have never heard of, a lot of which is almost half the price of the Ilford. Can anyone recommend one of the cheaper brands?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2009 00:02
|
|
|
I saw a video on youtube showing how to load your own film canisters. Seems like a bit much effort to me, however just like with developing your own film, if you shoot a lot, or would if you could but can't due to cost, it is probably worth the effort. The video, by the way: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttuYnopEcg8 It sounds like it's narrated by Sling Blade's slightly-less-inbred cousin or something.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2009 00:08
|
|
|
I load my own B&W. It's really not that hard or fussy, and if you shoot at volume it's worth it; some people just load a whole spool of film to canisters at once, and that only takes a few minutes. You can also do smaller rolls so you can switch between film stocks faster. I bought the metal and plastic cartridges at first, but the plastic ones work much better for me. Downside I guess would be committing to one kind of film for awhile, which can be good and bad.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2009 00:21
|
|
|
You can get all the casettes you want at any photo finisher. They usually have a bit of film sticking out-tape your film to that bit of leader, pop it into the loader and wind up a can of film. I like it because if I want to try a camera out I can load up a short roll. I found out the hard way that Canon EOS cameras suck the whole roll back into the cassette. Manual rewind cameras give you the option of reusing the reused casette if you are careful, but since Wal Mart is only a mile away I can go get another bag of 35mm cassettes. What does not work is to carefully open the cassette and take the spool out. It won't seal up correctly and the edges will fog. My stock of old film is gone. Used the last of it. There's about half a roll left in the old Sears/Mamiya SLR. For B/W I think it makes sense to roll your own. I need to order another big roll.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2009 01:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:06 |
|
|
Buying bulk saves me about 50% over buying rolls and means that I generally have a lot of film around. Its not terribly inconvenient doing your own loading, but there's always a little bit of risk of accumulating dust in the cassette light traps which will scratch your film.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2009 02:10
|
|