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Jack_Handey posted:Rough Country is kind of lovely, I'd recommend rustysoffroad or rubiconexpress over them You know, I've been pretty impressed by RC's engineers that frequent the JeepForum, and their Jeep products seem to be very well-designed and priced. On the other hand, they have put out some serious crap for other vehicles. For example, their Ford TTB 4" lift for Rangers will punch a hole into the front differential casing if you flex the driver's side axle beam as far up as it will go. The kit instructions makes no mention of this, nor does it include any special bump stops, and to this day I don't believe they've ever redesigned the kit. If you're buying for a Jeep, you'll probably get a pretty good product. Otherwise? I really can't vouch for them.
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Mar 9, 2009 00:04
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I had a 4.5" Rough country lift on my other Cherokee. The basic shocks it came with were a bit stiff, as were the add-a-lear rear spring. The parts seemed to be built well though. I'd say if you can't afford an expensive kit, you'd be happy with the rough country kit instead.
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Mar 9, 2009 03:02
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Veeb0rg posted:drop me a line on aim.. What's your AIM? I don't see it in your profile.
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Mar 9, 2009 13:39
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Wireless Winch Control: INSTALLED. STATUS: AWESOME! It's a little black box that you wire into your solenoids, place the remote black box inside the solenoid box and you're done. Little garage door looking remote. AWESOME. I think I might remove the wired remote plug all together, but for now I'll leave it alone.
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Mar 9, 2009 19:07
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Okay problem time. Yesterday I replaced the upper radiator hose on my 4.0 Cherokee. To do so I had to remove the battery in order to get at the "quick release" clamps. I reinstalled the battery and everything seemed good to go. Stupidly I left my dome light on and the car wouldn't start this morning so I hooked up the battery charger and took my brother's car to work. Now the car won't start unless I pump the gas and only keeps running if I keep pumping. Otherwise it dies immediately. What did I do to my Jeep? Alternator?
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Mar 10, 2009 03:12
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Rhyno posted:Okay problem time. Battery. You can get the goons at auto zone to test it and see if it's fried. If it's not you can trickle charge it and it will work again or you can replace it.
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Mar 10, 2009 03:30
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Scrubed posted:Battery. You can get the goons at auto zone to test it and see if it's fried. If it's not you can trickle charge it and it will work again or you can replace it. Even though the battery has enough juice to start the car (wont keep running) and run the lights/stereo etc? I had this same thing happen in my Celica, put in a brand new battery and within 3 days the battery was dead.
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Mar 10, 2009 03:35
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Sounds like an alternator to me. What voltage are you getting across the battery terminals while the car is running ? Should be up around 14 volts. If it's less that 12 volts while above 1000rpm then it sounds like you need a new alternator.
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Mar 10, 2009 20:33
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jonathan posted:Sounds like an alternator to me. What voltage are you getting across the battery terminals while the car is running ? Should be up around 14 volts. If it's less that 12 volts while above 1000rpm then it sounds like you need a new alternator. I dont have a voltmeter of my own so I can't check. I did run to an Autozone and had them check the battery, it's fine so I'm going with the alternator.
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Mar 10, 2009 22:15
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I bought a 92 YJ with an inline six, it drives like sex. I went and got the fluids topped up because the po had no idea when it was last done. One of the guys said that my valve cover was leaking oil. I went out and bought a Haynes manual and inside it says I can replace the cracks in the pre-cured gasket with RTV sealant after I take off the valve cover. My question is, is this a smart idea? Or should I get a new valve cover? Or new gasket? Or is that a judgement call once I get the cover off and take a look at how badly cracked the gasket is? Will grab some pics later tonight.
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Mar 11, 2009 00:40
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titaniumone posted:I'm considering buying a 94 YJ in Ontario from a guy who is the second owner. It has 87,000 miles on it; 4.0L I6, has both hard top and soft top, stock rims/tires and 33" mud tires. Suspension is lifted 5" and body is lifted 3" more. Anyone? 
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Mar 11, 2009 02:48
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Rhyno posted:I did run to an Autozone and had them check the battery, it's fine so I'm going with the alternator. if you pull the alternator i think they check those too.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:35
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titaniumone posted:Anyone? If everything is running good, then that is a pretty good price. I got mine for $4500 USD, but mine came with a winch and some nice wheels, 4" suspension lift and 35s. I switched to 32s later. The 8" of total lift seems a little extreme for 33" tires, though. Does it look ridiculous? With that mileage you should have yourself a nice Jeep for a long time.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:51
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Scrubed posted:if you pull the alternator i think they check those too. She's up on jacks waiting for me to pull it out in the morning. I'll probably take pictures so you can all laugh at my incompetence.
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Mar 11, 2009 06:36
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I've been shopping around for a TJ Wrangler, and came across a listing for a 2006 Rubicon with approximately 50000 miles on it. The carfax report shows that it was initially registered as a 'personal vehicle', but when it was sold at auction to a dealer it was listed as a fleet vehicle. I don't know what kind of fleet would buy a drat Rubicon, but obviously I want to go over this with a fine tooth comb. Any other thoughts as to why I shouldn't get this particular Jeep? They want about 16,500 for it.
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Mar 11, 2009 15:44
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MiamiKid posted:I've been shopping around for a TJ Wrangler, and came across a listing for a 2006 Rubicon with approximately 50000 miles on it. The carfax report shows that it was initially registered as a 'personal vehicle', but when it was sold at auction to a dealer it was listed as a fleet vehicle. I don't really know how this sorta thing works, but could it have been repossessed or possibly seized by the police, and that's how it became a "fleet" vehicle? I guess the easiest way to find out would be to contact the dealer and ask, but now I'm curious if that's how it would happen in the case of a police seizure. Either way, you can't go wrong with a Rubi if you like wheeling, although the mileage is maybe a little high for an 06.
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Mar 11, 2009 20:45
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Super Aggro Crag posted:What's your AIM? I don't see it in your profile. sorry, forgot i had removed it.. its "mia veeb0rg"
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Mar 12, 2009 01:51
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Clamwacker posted:
Ridiculously awesome.
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Mar 13, 2009 04:37
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titaniumone posted:Ridiculously awesome. Heh... you should post some pictures of it. I'm curious to see what that looks like. 8" of lift is something you'd use when you want to fit 37"+ tires. Also body lifts are awful unless they're used specifically to fit large tires. If you buy that one you should remove the body lift and keep the 33s. Edit: Reason since you said you know nothing: Body lifts do nothing for the stability or control of a rig offroad. All they do is increase the distance between the bodywork and the tires. The only thing that increases actual ground clearance is larger tires, because the lowest point is always the differentials and maybe the transfer case. You want to find a good balance between lift and tire size so you can still have flex in the suspension, but also not be too top heavy. Do you plan on doing any real wheeling or just screwing around? Here's a simulator image of a TJ with a 6" lift and 32" tires, which is kinda proportional. All that wheel gap doesn't help unless the suspension is at extreme flex, and even then the thing would be extremely top heavy on hills, which is exactly what you want to avoid with Wranglers. The simulator didn't allow 8" lift or 33" tires because whoever made it is a homo. 
Clamwacker fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Mar 13, 2009 |
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Mar 13, 2009 04:45
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Any Jeep peeps in NC available to help me put on some .75" spaces up front. FOR NOW I want to level the front with the rear, and run the same tires, eventually I'll get a real lift that replaces all the control arms. Or recommend a place to get the spacers put on.
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Mar 13, 2009 20:26
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3" of body lift on a 15 year old vehicle scares the crap out of me, especially if the lift has been on there a while. Some cheap body lifts don't have galvanized bolts, and they rust out, and body roll is severely increased with a body lift because the bolts and pucks will flex on sharp turns. Personally If I bought that Jeep I'd set the body back on stock bushings immediately. I really don't know why anybody does a body lift unless they're working with a vehicle that has no other means of doing it, or for an engine swap.
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Mar 13, 2009 21:13
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Clamwacker posted:Heh... you should post some pictures of it. I'm curious to see what that looks like. 8" of lift is something you'd use when you want to fit 37"+ tires. Also body lifts are awful unless they're used specifically to fit large tires. If you buy that one you should remove the body lift and keep the 33s. This is the only picture I have. The lift doesn't look nearly as ridiculous as in your mockup. Maybe some of his numbers are off? 
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Mar 14, 2009 01:16
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That is definitely not 8" of lift. Either way that looks pretty decent, the paint looks a bit jacked up, but if you're going to wheel it that's not the most important thing anyway. Here is mine with the old 35" tires. I've got 3" of suspension lift and 1" shackle lift. It looks pretty similar. 
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Mar 14, 2009 02:50
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incredibull posted:3" of body lift on a 15 year old vehicle scares the crap out of me, especially if the lift has been on there a while. Some cheap body lifts don't have galvanized bolts, and they rust out, and body roll is severely increased with a body lift because the bolts and pucks will flex on sharp turns. 3" is definitely too much but 1" isn't bad if you're just doing a budget boost or leveling out the driveline angle a bit (installed in tandem with a 1" motor mount lift). Also, given the condition I see a lot of used YJ/TJ's in due to road salted-winters, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace some of those bolts and mounts anyway. titaniumone posted:This is the only picture I have. The lift doesn't look nearly as ridiculous as in your mockup. Maybe some of his numbers are off? Maybe he meant an 8 cm (  ) lift? There's definitely 3" of body lift judging from the gap above the rear bumper but the leafs don't look to have much arch left at all; whatever size they were. My 5.5" RE XD lift had almost twice as much clearance in the wheel wells as that with zero body lift. Seems a bit steep for a 15 year old YJ but then again the low mileage is a great find and should run for many, many years if properly maintained.
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Mar 14, 2009 06:40
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It was supposed to be 5" of suspension lift and 3" of body lift.
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Mar 14, 2009 08:49
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There's no way those are 5" lift springs, if they somehow are they are wore the gently caress out. Also a 1" BL with a MML would set you up for a belly up/tummy tucker skid plate.(lose "the shovel" skid plate) Edit: Wait are the springs over the axle instead of under? It doesn't look like it, then it'd be WAY up in the air.
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Mar 14, 2009 15:08
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It looks like the springs are under, if you look at the front axle.
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Mar 14, 2009 15:13
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After running on stock shocks for 15 years  I think it's about time to replace them. Does anyone have any recommendations? It's a '94 yj and I'm not running any lifts or anything so I'm not looking for anything super heavy duty since I don't get to go off road very often, but it is my daily driver. My budget is about 3-400 for the four. I haven't been driving it 15 years, I bought it about 5 years ago. It was someone's weekend car with no off roading so the shocks were in pretty good shape until recently.
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Mar 14, 2009 15:28
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thegreatcodfish posted:After running on stock shocks for 15 years Old Man Emu.
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Mar 14, 2009 16:31
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Old Man Emu. Those look like they are for lifted only, or am I reading it wrong? Their two sets available for YJ are the N33 and N34, which are specified as 2.5" lift and 3.5" lift. Do those specs mean up to 2.5/3.5 lift?
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Mar 14, 2009 17:19
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thegreatcodfish posted:Those look like they are for lifted only, or am I reading it wrong? Their two sets available for YJ are the N33 and N34, which are specified as 2.5" lift and 3.5" lift. Do those specs mean up to 2.5/3.5 lift? I'm pretty sure they have different sizes than what you see in catalogs, I'm pretty sure they have replacements for oem and I think I've seen their shocks on 4-5" lifts. Failing that Most places now have all Bilstein shocks 4 for 3 now. I think you can get 4 5100s for around your range. The 5100s are a shock many people can't seem to shut up about.
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Mar 14, 2009 19:07
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I'm pretty sure they have different sizes than what you see in catalogs, I'm pretty sure they have replacements for oem and I think I've seen their shocks on 4-5" lifts. I think I'll get the 5100s. 240 for a set of 4 doesn't seem bad for a shock that people can't shut up about. The OME would be 320 and I can't find anyone with 0" lift. Thanks for the help.
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Mar 14, 2009 20:34
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thegreatcodfish posted:I think I'll get the 5100s. 240 for a set of 4 doesn't seem bad for a shock that people can't shut up about. The OME would be 320 and I can't find anyone with 0" lift. Don't expect the shocks to completely change the overall ride on your YJ. Nice new shocks will HELP, but it's still a YJ. I went with Superlift Softride shocks on my old YJ and it made a difference but it was because none of the shocks worked, so going from no/busted shocks to working shocks was nice but it still rode like a tank. But the 5100s are what most people in jeep forums seem to go on and on about.
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Mar 14, 2009 22:50
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I picked up a 1996 Cherokee in September to use as a second car + winter beater, and I love it. It's served me well. I scored it for $1900 with 146k on it. Since picking it up I've had to replace the water pump and, most recently, the radiator diverter valve, hoses, and I did the plugs and wires for the hell of it, too. All told I'm under $2500 on this thing. That said, time to start fixing it up! I've already ordered a new rear windshield wiper arm assembly (as of now, there's no wiper arm and the washer fluid shoots straight backwards), and two new liftgate shocks (on cold days, my liftgate falls and hits me in the head frequently). I already did a sealed beam conversion to the headlights yesterday, and the visibility is vastly improved over my lovely OEM lamps. I'm having trouble finding a part, though - the inner passenger side front door handle has ripped clean off the door. The clips seem to have snapped off inside the door, rendering the current part irreparable. The only door handles I'm able to find online are either the external door handles, or the inner metal handle mechanism. What I'm looking for is the rubber (I think) handhold you pull the door shut with. Where the gently caress can I get one of those? I'm thinking a junkyard, at this point...
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Mar 16, 2009 14:48
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Wamsutta posted:I'm having trouble finding a part, though - the inner passenger side front door handle has ripped clean off the door. The clips seem to have snapped off inside the door, rendering the current part irreparable. The only door handles I'm able to find online are either the external door handles, or the inner metal handle mechanism. What I'm looking for is the rubber (I think) handhold you pull the door shut with. Where the gently caress can I get one of those? I'm thinking a junkyard, at this point... And why the hell haven't you posted the pictures of the spark plugs yet?! edit: http://www.knikrecycling.com/ have the handle in stock but don't specify color. 1-907-376-2584, and it's not so big that shipping from Alaska would be that bad. GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Mar 19, 2009 |
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Mar 19, 2009 15:08
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Wamsutta posted:(as of now, there's no wiper arm and the washer fluid shoots straight backwards)
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Mar 19, 2009 15:11
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ManicJason posted:My old Cherokee also had this feature. I considered filling the washer fluid reservoir with oil for Spy-Hunter-style defensive driving. Oh, believe me, I've been doing that (with washer fluid... not oil) when the need arises. So has GWBBQ when he's borrowed my Jeep. I'll kind of miss the feature, but there are times during the winter where not being able to clear my rear windshield has risen to the level of "safety issue" so I'm going to have to replace it. GWBBQ - Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. I found the part in a few places online in burgandy... and while this is my beater vehicle, that would look kind of silly. I'm hoping to get grey or, worst case, black. edit: I am going to text you the pictures, can you post them? I can't access hosting sites from work. Hooray firewall.
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Mar 19, 2009 15:17
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He let me borrow it (my car is no more ) to drive home and back, and after a few miles it started struggling. Long story short, the valve that opens up the heater core blew up in addition to the plugs and wires needing to be replaced. This is part of the aftermath. Well that can't be a good sign (three of them did this.)  Click here for the full 1328x996 image. There it is out of the hole ... and what's up with that electrode?   Oh, that's why it ran like poo poo. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. It turned out to be one of those things where you don't realize how bad it was until it's fixed. In Wamsutta's words, "It sounds like the engine is running instead of complaining."
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Mar 19, 2009 15:32
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Bonus picture of my TSX in the background! And in my defense, I bought it in September with 146k on it; it's about to roll over 150k soon. Yeah, I'm a lazy rear end in a top hat for not doing the plugs/wires sooner than now, but at least I wasn't the one who let them run for 100k+ or however long those goddamn things were in there. Christ. The truck is running so much better now. However, I'm already anticipating the inevitable failure of the power steering pump to come within the next year.
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Mar 19, 2009 15:56
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I'm looking at getting a Full Traction 3" Economy lift and OME Shocks. Is there anything else I need that isn't included in this? SYE I would imagine. "This kit includes front and rear extended length springs, an adjustable front track bar, front sway bar disconnects, extended rear sway bar links, rear track bar bracket, billet aluminum bump stop extensions, transfer case lowering kit, brake line extension brackets and complete detailed instructions. Shocks are NOT included. Must be purchased separately."
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Mar 19, 2009 22:42
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